This post was updated on February 28, 2024
PG Proluxe (Sikkens SRD) Wood Stain Review 2024
Here at DeckStainHelp.com, we have worked hard over the years to become your trusted reference for deck stain reviews and information. In 2017 PPG changed and transitioned the name of Sikkens branded products for exterior wood to PPG ProLuxe for North America. The PPG ProLuxe product line will contain all of the same Sikkens ProLuxe products and formulas, but will now showcase the updated PPG ProLuxe name and new packaging.
Sikkens PPG ProLuxe Cetol SRD Deck Stain Review
PPG Proluxe (Sikkens) Cetol SRD (Siding Railings Deck) is a high solid 1 coat wood and decking stain. The SRD offers 3-way protection for your exterior wood. Protection from water damage, UV radiation, and Mold. Sikkens SRD penetrates deep into the wood and does not film on top of the wood.
Containing Translucent Iron Oxide Pigments, PPG Proluxe (Sikkens) SRD can be used on all unfinished exterior wood.
Sikkens PPG Proluxe SRD Wood Stain Rating (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– The PPG Proluxe (Sikkens) SRD displayed a very nice natural cedar color to the pine dock. We were pleased with the penetration into the wood. Much better than other PPG Proluxe stains that filmed on top of the wood like a varnish.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 6
– At the 2-year mark, Sikkens PPG Proluxe Cetol SRD lost a lot of color after 24 months of full sun exposure. The stain that was left on the dock had either deteriorated away or darkened in color.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 7
– The Sikkens SRD exhibited bare spots on 30% of the flooring surface after 2 years. The dock exhibited a wear pattern down the middle of the walkway.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– The SRD is priced at $45 a gallon. Coverage per gallon was closer to 200 feet per gallon. We used 6+ gallons for the 1200 sq. feet. This equals $.23 a foot.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 5
– After 2 years we noticed a lot of black mold growing on the dock. On inspection, we noticed that the mold was embedded into the stain that was still left on the dock. About 40% of the SRD had this problem.
Ease of Application: 6
– We were not pleased with the application process. PPG Proluxe (Sikkens) suggests brushing the SRD into the wood. We took their advice and use a Wooster Stain Brush. It took close to 8 hours to apply the stain this way. We had many issues with the SRD dripping into the water below the dock creating an oily haze to the water.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 5
– Very poor. The high solids of the SRD stain darkened significantly. The original golden cedar color had turned a dark brown. The addition of the mold made the leftover stain look almost black in color.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 6
– A full stripping of the SRD would be needed. This will ensure that the reapplication of a new stain will achieve even color and proper penetration into the wood. Failure to remove/strip will result in the stain darkening even more (where the stain is left) and very light in the bare areas.
Overall Score PPG Proluxe (Sikkens) SRD at 2 Year Period: 6.5
– Akzo Nobel/PPG is one of the largest stain manufacturers in the world with Sikkens being the most popular. We hoped that their signature stain would perform better but we were very disappointed with the final results. We are not fans of stains that darken significantly in color. This makes future maintenance much more difficult to perform.
Product Information:
Where To Buy: Commercial Retail Stores
Cost: $59.99 per Gallon, $289.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent Oil-Based
Available Colors: 60 Colors
Application Temperature: 50-95 F
Coats Required: 1 Coat
Coverage Per Gallon: 200-300 sq. ft
Application Tools: Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 6-25 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
Manufacturer: PPG ProLuxe
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pine Boat Dock
Deck Square Footage: 1200
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Natural Cedar
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
I live in New Brunswick, Canada. In 2008 we had some major renos done on our home. One of those was a 100′ long veranda or porch which wrapped around 3 sides of the front portion of our home. This decking material is New Brunswick cedar which I sanded with 120 grit paper, (huge job…) and we finished it with the original Sikkens, the good stuff. The veranda and the 3 sets of steps looked beautiful. We applied two coats of Sikkens. It took several days to dry before the second coat was applied. Then several years later we resurfaced our deck with cedar. This cedar, like our veranda cedar was dry and also sanded with the 120 grit. When I went to purchase the Sikkens I was told it was discontinued but was replaced with a water based product, which I was told was exactly the same as the ‘good’ stuff. Well it was terrible. The following year it was peeling off. Then I had to scrape and sand the 22′ x 13′ deck and reapply. The next year the result was similar. I went back to the dealer and the guy told me I was in luck as Sikkens realised they screwed up and brought back the oil based product. I bought the stuff and decided to sand the deck yet again, along with the 3 sets of steps and reapplied with the ‘new and improved’ version, which is SIK250077C, cedar 077. It is a matt finish as that is what I have used since 2008. The problem now is this stuff does not have the same finish as the original stuff. So, all the refinishing I did last year now has to be scrubbed somehow as it is dark and dirty. While doing the refinish job last year, I also refinished all the outer cedar boards on my large veranda, so now all that will have to be scrubbed. I am not a happy camper. And I will not use a power washer on my cedar so it will have to be manual labour. Does anyone know of a product I can use to wash the cedar?
I have a 12X 16 pressure treated deck that’s going on 20+ years old and I took care of the deck – cleaning and using the original formula SIkkens Cetol SRD ( I think that was the name but I could no longer get the original formula in MA the past few years). I used the replacement product by SIkkens for the last couple applications (now PPG) but it’s been awful. The deck became sticky in some spots after application and it doesn’t last. The pressure treated wood is drying out much faster than it used to do. It’s a south facing deck – full sun all year and I have to look at restaining it again this summer when I did it in the Fall of 2019. It was a rich redwood coloring but now looks dirty brownish red because of the lame replacement “Healthy” product I had to buy. Please help recommend a product I can purchase in MA to help reclaim my once proud deck.
Your first issue is removing the Sikkens. Post some pictures for prep help with this.
Thank you – Here are a few pics – there is some pollen on deck and furniture/grill, but the flat dull coloring and dried out wood still comes through.
Once removed, use the TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. Use the RAD stripper for prep with both additives. Brightener after: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
This is the worst and most expensive product. You just have to use it once and you will come to the same conclusion. Most contractors call it liquid gold the marketing program is great. The product is the worst on the Market if you can Afford to
Have a handy man or applicator every year to make your house look good go for it. As far as the company and excuses that are used between improper application etc they have more excuses why it did not work. Then actual develping a product that would work.l
This is the most frustrating thing ever!!! So many conflicting opinions.
"I've used it for 10 years. Never had a problem" vs. "It peeled and discolored after only 6 months"
"I followed the directions to the letter and now I have a mess" vs. "Obviously you didn't apply it correctly"
"It has great color" vs. "It turned black after a few months"
And on, and on, and on it goes!!!
AAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!
This is a huge investment of time, effort and money and I cannot find ANY product out there that doesn't seem to have plenty of severe detractors. Our local cedar distributor won't sell anything but Sikkens, while other professionals would never ever use it. I read this entire thread several times and have come away with nothing but a sense of confusion and frustration….. and no closer to a decision.
Make sure the decking is not to hot never apply in direct sunlight and always rag off the excess always wash and sand decking first using some kind of stripper to remove old finish
II feel exactly the same as you do!! I'm ready to rip out my wood deck and put cement in
I think the peeling comes with the products other than the translucent. The translucent is pretty much an oil with pigment so if you prep the wood correctly for penetration, then you can't really go wrong with it and there is nothing to peel..
Your right!………. I have many comments here and my experience is very good with SRD!….remember, lots of people could be ahhhhh “representing other products on these sites!…….like the “help desk” who runs several web sites all linked to the sealer store, just saying. Ask a Question or Post a Review
Amen, Expensive and does not last. I Hope to find a product that will. Not satisfied, been using this product for 14 years.
What happens if you recoat
Not sure of your question exactly?
I've been in business since 1988 and stain an average of 400 decks a year. I live in Colorado with low humidity and VERY hot sun. The only product that stands up to our weather is Sikkens SRD oil. After the deck is completely prepped we apply the product with a lamb skin applicator and always make sure to wipe all excess off with a dry pad as you go along. Most cases I read about is "over application" and insufficient prep work.
Hi Tim,
I do not live in CO but have been working on our deck with now about 30 hours of prep and still not sure if we have done enough or done the right thing. Is there a way to contact you to tell you what we have done an ask a few questions. Do you have a business that I can contact?
The best out there…… IF IF IF you have shade, lite rains the sikkens dek product is like a furniture finish!…….will look amazing on a deck also, BUT BUT BUT after years it will also fail and keeping up with real peeling that won’t just lightly scrape off is impossible, BUT if you have shade it’s beautiful.Ask a Question or Post a Review
There are spots where the stain is dry slow like varnish. The deck was pressure washed prior to application of the cedar stain. Seemed to have been prepped good. What should II do to the varnish looking spots ?. It's been over 24 hrs. and it is still sticky.
Try to wipe down the shiny spots with lacquer thinner and rags. Saturate any oily rags with water when dry to avoid any accidents.
We just stained our deck and my dog is really wanting to get back out on 'his' deck. It still smells strongly of whatever the contents are. When can he get back out there?
When it is fully cured and dry. Maybe a few days but depends on the weather.
I have used this stain for several years. I holds up better than any stain I have bought from the box stores. It is very easy to remove when it is time to reapply.
I unfortunately had sikkens SRD painted on my deck and covered patio 18 months ago. As soon as it was applied, tiny bubbles appeared on the wood – so the paint company had to come back to sand them and recoat. Now, the interior walls and floor still look good, but the outdoor boards are HORRIBLE. Black mold and pealing everywhere. I asked my painter to come back before my 2 year warranty expires and he said this is normal, so I should be happy. So I've done my best to get rid of the mold and algae and used a pressure washer to remove the flakes [how does a stain flake off?] – and now I don't know what product to put on the deck. The deck is only 3 years old, so a resurfacer isn't needed. But, I was wondering if I have to completely remove all of the sikkens product before putting something else on top of it? Can something else cover it and also prevent any other paint/stain chips from coming off? Thanks~~
Stain flakes when it dries creating a film on top of the board instead of soaking into the wood grain. Yes you have to remove the SRD. You cannot cover and fix the issue by applying a different stain brand on top. You will make it worse.
Was convinced by Franklin Hardware guy that Dark Oak Sikkens on my prepped and sanded doug fir deck was the ticked. Sample area turned out almost black. Made several test samples to show the dealer to no avail-he claimed it was all my various samples at fault- HUH? He sent me a home with a can of Butternut which according to the picture is very light. I put it on and its close to black dried on the surface and splotchy. Can was properly shaken at the store and stirred at home. Not happy and Franklin has lost a customer. Twas a good product once, but no more.
Sikkens changed hands about 18+ mths ago, and so did their formulations. We made thousands of samples with original colors only to be shocked to find out that new colors were vastly different. We were setting up to become distributor, but that all changed our minds. Too bad, Sikkens had a great product and fine potential in a new market and application with products we make.
Decks are ALWAYS A PROBLEM. ANY PAINT/stain product will degrade from direct sun and UV despite best intentions of manufacturers because stain binders are are "organic" (meaning polymers,) linked molecules containing hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, and other trace components. Links, chemical bonds, are are always broken, over time, by photons in visible, IR, and. UV light.
UV-resistance, like that in paint and sunscreen, relies on there being additives that contain sacrificial bonds that must be broken BEFORE most of the bonds in the coating, which is doing the "protecting" , will finally be broken down_at which time re-coating is required.
The only " permanent" coatings are INORGANIC. The only " permanent" coating I know of is by KEIM, a German paint company whose wall paints use inorganic binders ( probably sodium silicate ) and oxide pigments. Some of their wall paints ( on stucco, concrete, and brick are 150 years old ! How the paint would hold up on wood I do not know. And i doubt that they make a deck paint or stain. BUT, it might be worth a look, which i will do when I finish this Now !
Ralph ILER , Architect ( Retd.:) ).
PS. If you find something about KEIM or any other good ( durable, abrasion-resistant,color-fast or non-hazing clearcoat ) deck finish, please let me know !
I've been using SRD (cedar decks) and Cetol 1 (cedar furniture) for maybe 20 yrs now…their products have changed and the colors have also…I used Rubol wht on a pier 10 yrs ago, it worked great, re-coated (new version Rubol) 2 yrs ago and it turned grey soon after, I now use Behr for solid colors, Rubol white stinks now. All said, their Cetol 1 does a nice job on furniture and such, has a shiny finish, use 2 coats and then 1 maint coat as needed…SRD has mixed reviews by me…re-coating can result in blotchy look even if prepped well (TSP power wash) but it does the job for a one coat deck product overall.
Now I have extra SRD and Cetol DEK I'm trying as a maint coat over SRD on a small cedar porch…can I mix them to get a semi-shiny result, both are penetrating stains so I think it should be OK?
Not sure on this one as we personally have never mixed the two products. Try a small test of each and see how it turns out.
So after talking with a local paint/sikkens dealer, I explained wanting a glossier look, but I also read that Cetol DEK can be slick in rain/snow (we're Wisc) so decided against mixing, plus not sure how future maint coats would penetrate, so went all SRD…my other concern as I've heard the peeling comments, is that the deck has a definite wear pattern and some areas with little wear, so SRD thick over less worn areas it seems would not be good, the rep said to go light coat and brush it in and heavier coat on the more worn areas (he's heard this comment before, said to rotate where we put our deck funiture, really?)…anyways I made effort to go lite on less worn areas, makes sense, looks good so far, will advise, thx again.
How did you make out John? we are wanting to do the same with our porch.
Thank you.
Am building a new cedar deck in Squamish BC. Canada. We get lots of rain over the winter. I was going to stain before the railings go up but am reading about weathering the wood. I was going to use the Sikkens SRD ( seems to be something wrong with every product so went with the local store recommendation) I have no idea what the moisture content of the wood is. Can I stain it now after washing and sanding or do I have to wait for the wood to weather? Will that be the same for the upright cedar posts and railings?
We always let wood weather and prep for the first time staining: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Yes on the verticals.
Thanks. I shall wait for spring.
I have been reading a little more about the TWP 1500 stain. Would that be a better choice of stain?
I would like to get a transparent stain that does not need to be removed for maintenance. Reading more about the sikkens SRD it appears it does.
Not a better choice but as good.
Let it weathe wen it looks gray powerwash let dry 3 or 4 days and stain we like sikkens good luck Alex
Do I need to prep the surface BETWEEN coats of Sikkens Log & Deck Stain???
Yes you should.
Garbage product!
I have be applying stains and finishes from various manufacturers to various species of wood for over 20 years and this is the most unpredictable product I've ever used. Instead of sticking with what I have used in the past I decided to take a chance on this as it was supposed to be Sikkens flagship product.
In my opinion, I just ruined over 1000 sq ft of eastern white cedar siding on our home. The results are blotchy and unfortunately you don't notice how bad it's going to look until after about 1-2 hours….by then it's too late.
The stain looks great as your applying it and backbrushing produces a nice consistent finish, but then as it dries, some areas pool causing dark spots and some areas seem to absorb nothing.
I tried some of the product on various scrap pieces of different species wood I have around the shop and experienced the same issues.
For reference the exact product we used is Sikkens Cetol SRD Water clean-up formula in cedar tint, applied to eastern white cedar siding with a MC of < 16%.
I'll stick with an oil based product from now on and definitely not from Sikkens, simply because they don't deserve my money anymore for wasting peoples time with this garbage.
If someone gave me free cans of this product I would consider them an enemy…..
Deck maintenence can be very frustrating to deal with. When people ask me about prep for their project ( mostly decks) I find that after explaining in great detail what they need to do for prep I usually find they do some or part. They say a guy told me that wasn’t necessary, or if the old stain is really worn I don’t need to strip etc etc. OR they say they did it, All on one day/700sq.ft.! If you notice the pattern here, the help desk almost always recommends cleaning and brightening, if changing stains, stripping and brightening, sometimes sanding. I can tell you these are all necessary steps and it’s not gonna happen on one Saturday. When somebody states a multi billion dollar company ( Sikkens), making coatings in industry, automotive. makes 100’s of products, but their home owner deck stain is garbage, well I’m leaning toward prep issues. Sometimes you can do all the prep and you may NOT get every trace of the old product off resulting in blotchy results. A few things I’ve learned bout decks! 1. NOBODY makes the “best” 2. Buy a high quality product and try to stick with it. 3 follow the instructions. 4. large projects, do in sections so as to avoid, noon sun ( bad for applying MOST products ( except Armstrong Clark) and avoid the dusk “due” trying to finish. 5. learn weather your looking at a film coating product OR penetrating product. 6. ALL products have changed over years…..and MOST were better BEFORE voc restrictions……. If you notice TWP 100 is the first recommend UNLESS it’s not allowed in your state, then twp 1500. This goes for ALL brands, they all have voc’s to deal with. My first product used 28 years ago was Behr linseed oil based, kept boards from shrinking or squeaking, very beautiful, BUT over a couple years it tended to hold dirt, then I went to redo my deck and poof it was gone, to high in voc’s. That started my journey to Behr, pennifin, super deck, Sikkens DEK, Sikkens SRD. 7. Understand if you live in a climate like Chicago, sun, rain, 95 degrees/0 degrees, snow, NO product will last more then 3 years decking/4-5- rails, yes you can go longer but at the expense of more prep work, and requiring more product. I have full sun, some humid days, plenty of snow,I feel 2 years on the decking surface and I need to redo. But doing it at 2 years is a light cleaning/ brightening and pretty easy recoat. Railings about 4 years. 8. The RAD products mentioned here work well. I have used them. The stripper even though is NOT suppose to remove Sikkens dek but it will loosen it up and take one layer off……This product was beautiful until about 10 years into it when peeling started to be to much. When you repair these spots the repairs are much lighter and when you get to many it’s just… Read more »
Applied to my new deck , let deck set for year cleaned deck as per recommendations. 3 months after we applied stain it turned dark black in spots weather grey look and peeled . Wrote company they investigated with photos and said it was how I prepared and cleaned it prior to applying stain . I did as the instructions said !!!! They offered me 2 free cans after I purchased 1 BUT SAID IT WAS MY FAULT WHY OFFER ME ANYTHING IF NOT YOUR CO. PROBLEM. Really I already purchased a gallon of your crap stain and no I will not waste my money and time on a Sikkens product again. RUINED MY NEW DECK . PLEASE DONT USE THIS PRODUCT .
My neighbor and I just finished installing 400sf cedar decks each, and bought the SRD as the stain from reading reviews on different websites, now this website leaves us in a dilemma !! should I go ahead and apply it, and fingers crossed it wont be a mess, or just suck it up with the money we paid and look for a different product
Jason, hard to say. Try using and switch in a couple of years if needed.
The new wTer base product is terrible..we used the oil base for years with excellent results but after staining mast year with water base we are left with a
MESS!!!!
When a non professional applies SRD, you will get mediocre results. Deckstain help applied it over water?!!!
We have applied SRD on a IPE deck with excellent results. This deck by the way is at a winery in the Napa Valley and gets thousands of customer use every year. Its all in the prep. I bet most of these reviews are by weekend warriors that do the minimal amount of prep and expect great results. We can prep for two to three days and stain an entire deck in a matter of hours and achieve lasting results. Take your time and you will not be disappointed with sickens.
Ok, Norcal Coatings, just what is your connection with Sikkens company—are a subsidiary, employed by, or otherwise benefitted by saying this?????? I'm just curious because of all the other posts to the contrary!
Was looking for suggestions. Just built an indoor riding arena , siding is a "reverse baton" style in pine or spruce. The exterior siding will be left to weather naturally to match my existing bank barn, however I would love to preserve the interior wood ie keep it from staining and greying and maintain the pale colour. As the outside will be exposed to harsh weather (southern Ontario) I am nervous about a sealant that might peel. There are some sections under windows that might be directly exposed to rain and there is a fair bit of light exposure through clear plexiglass panels that go around the whole building. A friend suggested checking out Sikkens, but from the comments posted here, it seems there may be better products out there. This is a huge building, a one shot deal – so it's got to work the first time. Would a light coloured stain like "Puritan Pine" be enough protection? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Light colored stains will work well for interior areas. They will last many years with little to no fading. Best to use a deep penetrating stain tat does not film. Recently we used the Armstrong Clark Natural on an interior ceiling of a covered deck and it turned out great. We are not huge fans of sikkens but from you can get in Canada it is a decent option.
We will be using Cetol SRD on our deck this week. We will strip & power wash the old stain off first.
Questions:
1. How long do you need to let the deck dry before applying the stain (48 hrs)?
2. How long does the stain take to dry?
Ron
Ron, 48 hours after prep to dry. Sikkens should dry within 12-24 hours.
Cetol DEK is the best stain available,, I have used it on deck boards, railings, posts and trim. It is expensive but wears longer than any other product available. Amazing results.. Have to do two coats.. NO QUESTION!
Is the CETOl DEK finish better?
I have read all the comments and am wondering where some kind words are for the Sikkens products. I have only used the Sikkens cetol DEK finish in either natural and cedar. I am always talking it up as a long lasting great stain but very expensive ( $78 per gallon!!) i have been using it for garden beds, planter boxes, out door seating ( all in slc,utah) and on Ipe deck ( in seattle) and have really found it to last. Was going to use the semi-transparent srd on the cedar fence i am building but after reading the comments i might stick with the tried and true dek finish. Does any one have thoughts on applying on cedar fence slates. i have given all the slates a sand on both sides and am ready to apply…
Hi Mike
I am from Muskoka, Ontario, Canada & have used Siikens for 30 years
My house is a huge Natural wood sided pine siding with 1500 square foot deck + 75 steps + 7 landings to the water
1ST OFF I always call Siikens to make sure & reconfirm what I am doing BEFORE I do it not after like so many do
Cedar must be treated unlike any other wood not with the TSP/ bleach treatment 1st {call them}
Since they changed their product last year many huge problems have arrived {Likely why the company was sold to them in April of this year} before the SHTF
Their SRD product completely sucks, many retailers won't stock it anymore. Have you ever seen 1 coat of anything not be full of missed pours, or tiny spots. Look after 1 coat thru a magnifying glass & see where the water goes. You also cannot stain without obvious brush overlap, this leads to pealing
Cetol 1 + 23 {House siding 078} have NOT changed their formula & it is simply great BUT you must do all 6 sides with 1 coat of #1 then 2 coats only of Cetol 23 {Has a shiny appearance}. We have used this product for 32 years. 5 years ago we finally replaced the siding , after 2 years, great, 3 years like new, 4 years, ZERO signs of wear, Now year 5 certainly doesn't need it but we are proceeding anyways
Stairs to the Lake:
Cetol Dek – 078 natural – We had 2 gals of this original {shiny} stain so did 3 sections of stairs & decks then ran out
We then switched to the NEW FORMULA Cetol Dek FINISH 078 natural & did the remaining sections, all in 1 day, same conditions, perfect temp 74, 5 days since TSP / bleach application, & dry as a bone finally finished, looked great
The next day we went out to look, sections with the original formula great but exactly where we stopped the new product was horrifying. It was milky in many spots, hazy in others, no shine @ all, ZERO coverage. Any place not completely sanded, any grey spots or colors in the wood, stood out like crazy. {faded camoflauge look}
I spent about 6 hours on the phone with Siikens in both USA & Canada who basically admitted that if you put the NEW formula close to the old formula, you won't like it
BTW No Siikens products can be used, over ANY other Sikkens product so we cannot even try to cover up the mess
They said that the only solution was sand everything 100% & apply the NEW formula, so the vast difference would not be glaring. Ya right, hand sand 100's of spindals with 5 coats of stain, to correct their mess
I will NEVER use Sikkens again except for the Cetol 1 & Cetol 23 applied exactly as directed
The previous owners of my house used this on our mahogany deck (mahogany hardwood version). Now it's been about 3 years and I am trying to strip this and restrain with Armstrong Clark. There was a lot of fading and a lot of mold spots. But I am having a really tough time removing this old Sikkens SRD stain from the deck. Used restore-a-deck stripper and power washed, and it worked well except in some places where there is embedded stain that is not coming out. Our deck gets varying amounts of sun, parts full sun and parts partial. We live in the northeast. I am wondering if sanding is the only option now, other than just staining it as is (after brightening) and hoping for not too many light/dark areas.
Adam, try sanding to loosen up the areas with the Sikkens than apply a stripper again to get the rest off. Brighten when done.
Thanks. What grit would you recommend for looseing up these areas where the stripper couldn't remove the stain?
I have been using sikkens DEK on my cedar deck for the past 7 years it peals every year gets black mould and my deck turns black the railings are all pealing what a waste of time and money at $45.00 – $50.00 per gallon it is a joke i wish i never put it on. i hired a floor sanding co $1.200.00 later not including the sikkens DEK 1 year later same thing pealed black mould my $12.000.00 deck is a mess it is a real bad prodect any one who uses it will not be happy you will be stripping and redoing it every single year i talked to a sikkens rep he told me it was not put on wright or it was not sanded everything was done correctly not there sikkens but the truth is that sikkens is nothing but crap do not us it on your deck never never never. vinny NH
Just finished Sikkens on pine posts. Excellent coverage over a previous BEHR redwood stain. Gorgeous color and shine. Did not run as it sucked into the wood quickly….People in this area swear by it….
I used Sikkens last week and I purchased the transparent finish. What was actually in the 1 gallon I purchased from the Home Depot DID NOT RESEMPLE the color at all. It was very dark and not transparent at all. VERY FAR OFF from the samples in the store. On top of all of that, every time I walk on the deck from the grass in the yard it leaves a white cast on the deck. It now must be stripped completely off and I will need to start again. THIS IS REAL WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY! I followed the directions but to no avail.
Signed, Seething in Cleveland, Ohio.
I know just what you are talking about it is very dissapointing the same thing happend to us . The only thing is we had a big brand new deck and used 5 gallons the colar was way off . at least 6 shades darker it was suppose to be a natural oak, It came out orange and redish it has a dirty old looking finish gross. I talked to a rep and he said there is no gaurantee on colar just performance. Thats a bunch of bull I told him the colars are very misleading .
I put Cetol 1 + one coat of 23 on a Cedar Pergola almost 10 years ago and it still looks fine. It is covered (no rain or snow exposure), and partially shaded – however we live in Vancouver BC where it is very wet/rainy. No mildew problems.
I have just completed another cedar structure and I asked a very experienced painter what to use. He said he hates Sikkens because it needs too much maintenance and peels. He recommended a water based product called Protector, – made by a company called CBR Broda.
I bought some and put it on the deck portion a few weeks ago. Applications was dead simple … just slosh it on and push around with an application pad (it is very watery). It is a small deck – 500 sq ft – and it took about 20 minutes to do. Looks reasonable. Certainly it does not compare to Sikkens for the look – but it is decent – and I can for sure find 20 minutes to recoat every 2-3 years if needed.
Anyway – I just thought I would mention this product as it is not Sikkens or Behr.
PS: I have a Behr oil based semi-trans stain on cedar siding, and this has lasted 9 years on a sunny west facing wall and is just now starting to weather. This seems like a reasonable amount of time for a stain to last.
Any comments on the Home Depo Behr transparent stain. I am need to stain ship lapped pine boards for my garage. Want to match our house which has cedar boards. I uses Cetol 1 2 3 Seikens which is a labour of love. Trying to ger away from the 3 coat system. The Seikens has held up the house quiet week.. Appreciate any comments.
Thank you.
You have to follow the instructions exactly for Cetol SRD. I have applied it two year ago on a cedar deck and did the water drop test on It this June 2013and it passed. One coat only application best when the day is cloudy and the wood is dry.
The surface though looks faded. since the product is quite absorbed into the wood can I now apply a fresh coat or best to leave it until it does not pass the water droplet 15 minute test with no sunlight?
Does the Sikkens translucent have the same removal/reapplication problems as the semi-transparent? Any additional thoughts on the translucent for a new cedar deck is appreciated. Great website!
Since your test was in 2006 do you think Sikkens has improved since then. Thank you.
Not from anything we have seen. It also seems that many others have had similar issues recently.
Used sikkens deck stain, power wash everything, let it dry, then put it on but after 4days it is still tacky. do I need to strip it and start over? what is a good stripper to use on that? what should I do next any ideas?
Andy, very hard to remove a newly applied stain. I would leave it alone and see if it dries. If not then contact Sikkens for some advice.
This product is excellent if you understand its limitations. I have used it on an 800 sq. ft. deck in suburban Illinois for over 10 years and numerous applications. First off ONE coat only! More and your guaranteed to have peeling. Back drag only if absolutely necessary and make sure the product is still wet, if not it becomes a second coat and will flake and peel. It is very difficult to apply because of this Second, this product is only good for 1 or 2 years max. It was sold to me with this understanding and I have been happy knowing its limitations. I reapply every year or 2 and the deck looks great.
WOW! I have been looking for a deck stain for 60 foot 6 inch wide pressure treated wood rail with 25 years old.
It will not be found.
The deck itself held up. I kinda like the gray. This year I am having it softly power washed.
It used Job max/ some muscle for cleaning the rail. The rail went down to natural wood in no time.
Bottom line just forget your stains. The decks are WOOD.Mine is still wood strong. Forget about it. Just power wash as needed. $150 – Salisbury, MD. Cedar is similar to a boat which should be renamed as WORK.
We bought a house in Lehigh Valley, PA last summer with a second story cedar deck/2 sets of stairs & it gets full sun. The stain was peeling when we moved in (Aug) & a year later is still peeling, especially on the flat surfaces. It looks terrible! We found out that Sikkens DEK was used on it. A contractor has suggested chemically cleaning the deck, powerwashing & staining with Sikkens SRD or Sherwin Williams. Says we do not need to belt sand the wood. We are hesitant. Suggestions?
Wendy B, I would let him prep it but I would not let him use the SW.
I'm looking to stain the cedar siding of the house, and need UV protection. What do you suggest?
Barbara, look for TWP 1500 Series for the cedar siding.
Sickens srd is crap. I put it on a new cedar deck last year and it peeled of like in one year. I am very upset.
OK, we have a 7 year old mahogany deck, covered and uncovered. We had Sikkens put on the deck about 2 years ago and the exposed part needs too be re-done. Sikkens does not seem to be the preferable product, but which one should we use? And do we need to strip, sand the old Sikkens off completely in order to refinish it with a new product? Though the covered part still looks pretty good, we still want uniformity, so yes we would be doing that part as well. We live in the North East and the deck gets afternoon sun. Any advice would be great! Also the covered front porch also has Sikkens and it looks very good except the few front boards that get the morning sun. Would it be simpler to stay with the Sikkens or move to a different product. I heard that you can't just wash, sand and re-coat with Sikkens, it must me stripped as well. Sorry for the long post!!!!
Kelley, you should remove the Sikkens if switching brands. Might need to strip and or sand. I would look at the Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color for this.
To re coat this product right away to get a darker shade what would be the procedure?
Tom, most likely you will have issues unless you strip off the first coat.
Hello All,
Is there a transparent (no pigment) stain, preferably oil based, that offers some/any UV protection? for use on a one year old cedar deck, not treated yet…I am trying to just get a wet look finish, I dont mind if I have to re-apply every year or so, as long as the re applying is cleaning, and re painting, hopefully not stripping or sanding off- I live in Southweatern Ontario so deck surface will see rain, sun, and snow.
Thanks!
Omar, must have a tint/color for UV protection. The richer the color, the longer the UV protection. Wet look can be achieved with the lightest colors. Usually called Honey or Natural.
My husband is in the process of stripping Cetol SRD from our deck–we had similar problems to those stated above but without the flaking. He intends to use a brightening product from Shur-Line before re-staining. We are considering using TWP 1500 or Defy Extreme as the new stain. Both are water-based. Will using water-based stain after an oil-based product work OK? Thanks.
Kathy
Kathy, TWP 1500 is oil based. Defy Extreme is water based. As long as the Sikkens is removed you can use either.
DEK is my favorite. I have it on my back deck that I had to strip and re-do 6 years in a row with other brands. I put DEK on just the top side last summer and it still looks brand new.
Well, I hope I have better experience with my cedar deck than these posts. I just finished the deck boards. I've done the posts. I'll redo the railing with new cedar as the old wood was completely done. I have to refinish the skirt also. I just applied the Translucent Cetol SRD RE (water based) in Natural tone, using a large brush. The cedar was prepared by first stripping to remove the patchy existing stain, mold, mildew, etc. I countersunk all nails. Used an orbital floor sander and finishing sanders to get down to a layer of "virgin" wood. I applied while the deck was shaded and no rain for about 20 hours (application guide says 5). It looks great, particularly given the very sorry state of the wood before starting the project. It's a low, poorly ventilated deck, for which this product is particularly designed. My deck is in southern Ontario and faces about NNW so it will see all seasons. I expect to re-apply horizontal surfaces annually, based on the product's literature.
This is Greg replying to his own post. After a year, there was barely any tiny spots on the whole deck that showed any fading. I applied another coat this year. I did a sweep and a light high pressure spray so I didn't upset the grain. The one-coat application went on easily and evenly with a brush. Looks great. I will say that the surface is very resistant to scratches, given that deck furniture gets dragged around all the time. I suppose the more coloring in the stain, the more it will show scratching and scarring.
As I read the instructions on the cans, they recommend cleaning the deck with TSP and bleach every year, then sanding and applying the Cetol. I have done it for several years and would not skip those cleaning and sanding steps. I am guessing the problems everyone is having with darkening is the build up if they didn't follow the directions.
Darkening is not from the prep but the stain itself. Prep is more of a key to longevity and appearance.
Has daeck stain help reviewed Sikkens DEK? I just purchsed…….not yet applied…..still have receipt:) Going on a treated fir deck.
Ashley, I would never use the Sikkens DEK on a deck. It is a shiny type varnish finish that needs to be applied to all 6 sides of the wood before installing. Failure to do so will result in peeling. I would return it.
Dont use it I used to use Olimpic and always had great results we pressure washed our new deck and sanded it was never stained , the deck is only a year old and the colar is so far off its night and day . Actually it look very. dark and dirty . I am so pissed off there is nothing I can do, because of the oil base. Please Please , Please check the colar on a couple big pieces of wood before you apply., or you will be crying like me .I now have to live with a orange reddish looking pool deck.
Use the Behr stain stripper. It even remove multiple coats of Pennefin Oil I'd applied to my cedar deck. After applying the Behr brightener as well, the deck looks bright and clean. Use a brush to apply the stripper (scrubbing lightly with a stiff broom or brush is recommended but not always necessary). I've used these Behr products on over 1,000 s.f. of decking and stairs on both cedar and old growth doug fir. It just works.
I have been getting very good result from Cetol 1 & 23 plus for the last 11 yrs for my Cedar Deck in Ontario Canada. Having tough time to locate for replenishment. Now that the SRD that all the Sikkens dealers carry have such a poor review. I am at a cross road again deciding which brand to trust. Not good.
Billy, I am not sure what to suggest. Maybe strip off the Cetol and go with stain like Armstrong?
Billy thinking of using the cetol 1 on my deck with 2 coats. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks brian
What type of stain would you use for an IPE deck–part covered, part uncovered. The contractor that I am talking to does some beautiful work, but likes Sikkens. The comments here are less the ideal, so I am interested in unbiased input for good quality, yet reasonably long lasting deck stains.
Thanks!
Terry, IPE requires annual maintenance so you want a stain that it easily re coatable or removable in the future. I would lean towards Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color or Defy Hardwood Stain.
Consider just using tung oil. I had an Ipe distributor tell me that that is all that should be put on it. I have used Cabot Austalian Timber Oil with a Mahogany tint with pretty good success. but it has to be redone before it begins to weather other wise you will need to sand to bare wood and start over. I used this on my Ipe porch stairs. 8 ft. stairs.
I have an Ipe Screen Porch 20 x 24 that was coated with Sikkens 23 plus – gorgeous for a year or so but now looks horrible with orange spoting- blotches and cloudy moisture area where a sisal rug once sat. The Ipe in direct sun has weathered horribly to the point where there is not any Sikkens left.
I need to refinish the porch and will use tung oil or the Australian Timer Oil but I need to know how to get the Sikkens off the porch. Can You HELP?
Richard, tung oil by itself will not have any or very little UV protection from graying. It will also attract mold in wet climates. Try using the Restore A deck stripper and a pressure washer to remove the failed Sikkens.
What do you think of Cabot's Australian Timber Oil with Mahogany tint. I have used this on the Ipe stair treads which are exposed to the sun and rain — we live in tidewater Virginia on the Chesapeake Bay. I get about 2 years before I have to recoat. When using I roll on three coats and let each one dry — I do not wipe the stain. Takes a while to dry but it does and looks almost as good as the Ipe porch when it was first done with the Sikkens.
Thank you for your suggestion of Restore A Deck Stripper will it hurt the Ipe and when powerwashed off will it hurt plants and plantings? Thanks for your help.
Cabot ATO used to be a great stain about 12 years ago. They have changed the formula and it just does not work the same as it used too. We do like it better than the Sikkens though!
Thanks for taking the time to respond, it means a lot to talk with someone who obviously has a great depth of knowledge. Do you have a recommendation on what to use on my Ipe Screened Porch which will last without a tremendous amount of maintence? We are on the Chesapeake Bay – salt air exposure, hot summers, relatively mild winters except this one. Also — The porch as I indicated is a screen porch which gets perimeter afternoon and late sun. The outer band of the porch flooring (that which is under the 4×4 porch supports – they are off the floor by 1" and to the edges of the porch about 8" has almost completely grayed out and weathered) (was thinking about painting that area with black deck paint – creating an outer border if you will.) Other suggestions or will the Restore a Deck Stripper and Brightener bring that back, at least to a point where it could be stained>
Finally the question I asked about the Restore A Deck Stripper …. will it harm shrubs, roses, ornamental grasses? Again thank you so much for your help. — Richard
Richard, the RAD stripper should bring back the natural wood. When we use it we cove shrubs or rinse them very well if the RAD products get on them. Rarely have issues as long as we pay attention. The Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color is great for IPE and is very similar to the old ATO in performance.
I've used HD-80 to remove sikkens with power washing…..Worked well. Then oxalic acid to neutralize and brighten, then use twp 1500 to recoat…
I am trying to find product warranty on Sikkens Cetol SRD. I contacted the Hardware store where I purchased, but they gave me an 866-852-3134 # to call, which I have been getting constant busy signals for 2 days now. Just now after the busy signal, a recorded message came on that said the number was no longer in service.
Can someone please email me with your warranty and contact info so I can get in touch with you?
I would try contacting Sikkens at their website. I do not know of any contacts there.
They don't give suggestion for removing there product
Wow, I have the same problem! Is there any recourse?
Joe R.
Remove and start over with a different brand is about all you can do.
there is always a solution to a stain issue. go back to the hardware store and ask for the Sikkens Rep to call you or get her or his number if you can…. they will stand behind their product , you just have to research.
I live in the Midwest. We had a very mild winter. Last spring I did a lot of research on deck stains and made the decision to use this product, regardless of the cost. I have a very large multi-level cedar deck. I power washed the deck removing all previous coats of stain used-got it down to the bare wood, replaced some cracked boards and even sanded the entire deck, spindles and all. It took 13 gallons to cover the deck, rails & spindles, with 2-3 coats on each. However, just ONE year later, the ENTIRE deck needs to be redone! It is all peeling & flaking off. I am not happy at all because of the cost of the product; secondly, because it took a few months to complete and lastly, the fact I paid someone $1000 to do it! The product I used was Sikkens Cetol SRD Semi Transparent Stain.
Donna, sorry to hear of this. Thanks for posting your experience.
I had the same problem and my cedar deck is two years old I need suggestion for re staining.
What read was. Use 1 coat only and keep a wet edge and back brush. 2 coat will flake and peel
Donna, if you applied 2-3 coats with Sikkens Cetol SRD that is the issue for peeling. That is a ONE COAT product only. I am a painting contractor and offer warranty for our work and haven't had any warranty issues when used this product so far.
I applied only one coat of this product and it has peeled terribly.
If applied properly, and wiped off with a rag there would be nothing to peel as the product soaks into the wood and then you wipe off the excess. If you do it properly and wipe off the access there is no way it can feel because there is nothing to peel the product becomes a part of the wood. It is so sad to see so many negative comments about an amazing product simply because people do not know how to apply it properly. SRD is a one coat system. You are supposed to apply it and back roller or brush it while it soaks into the wood. When it soaks into the wood, you are supposed to apply more until it begins to pool on the top. The pooling tells you that it has absorbed all it can, and then you are supposed to wipe off all access with a rag leaving none behind. This is where the majority of people complaining about peeling go wrong. Clearly they are not removing the access with a rag. As I said, if the product applied properly, there is no way it will peel because there is nothing sitting on the top of the wood.
My painter put this on my IPE deck last year when installed. It looked great, but a year later has not held up well in spots and many spots have bad water mark stains. Do I need to strip off the entire stain if I want to change to a different stain, like TWP or IPE Deck stain?
Yes it would be best to strip it off first. IPE needs to be recoated annually. Best to choose a stain that can be cleaned and recoated easily.
Excellent review, couldn't agree more. I used the Sikkens SRD (Natural) for years on a north-east facing cedar deck (in Ontario, Canada) and couldn't figure out why it darkened so much in one year and went black in places. I thought it was me and kept stripping, sanding and refinishing it year after year. What a waste of my time and labor. I would not recommend this product to anyone.
Dan, thanks for your review and response.
I used this product a year ago. My cedar deck looks horrible, doesn't even look like it was done, now I faced the dilemma of getting it removed and using another product. I don't know what to do.
Laurie, best to strip off the Sikkens and start over.
What do I use and do I do this. Professional are scared to tackle this job
Laurie, I am sorry but I did not understand your question.
I would not not use this product to stain my deck ever agian the colars are not correct at all from the chart very misleading . we wanted a natural wood colar and we got orange and red it is awfull . I talked to the one of the owners of the company and he said there is no guarantee on colar just performance . I would have excepted if the colar was just a little off , but not even close. We had it powerwashed done everything that the directions said to do. And unfortunatly we can not do anything to fix it , because it is a oil base . I also told the man he should pull the colar chart , people dont like to be mislead these days our time and money is too precious we work too hard., to be so disappointed I wish I could post some pictures you would not believe it the difference .
Rose- in there defense, semi-transparent colors will always look different based on the wood type, age of deck, and the prepping.
Th ere is a simple solution.. Use a stain and sealer remover. Roll it on and power wash it off. This will turn the wood black. Then use Deckswood (oxolic acid) apply according to directions, brings the wood back to new. Then apply stain to the color of your choice. Always do a color test on the wood you are applying
We had the same experience.
I agree, we spent a small fortune on our deck and took great care to apply correctly. The finish was beautiful for about
5 months, then it started peeling and turning black. We now are facing a big job to sand and remove the mess. This product is terrible.
I agree. We have to sand our right down to the wood this year as it was a two toned deck. I'm trying to figure out what other stain I can use other than the Sikkens. It's a lot of work.
I agree Dan, this is the very worst products I have ever used on my deck. I called Sikkens to get some
answers and all I got was excuses.