This post was updated on June 25, 2024
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2024
See my Deck Stain Facts section, which includes over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all your questions about deck staining, cleaning, and prep.
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your Deck is the most critical aspect of the restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping correctly can lead to premature stain failure and poor appearance results.
My 3 Easy Pro Steps to Decking Prep
- Determine your deck’s current condition.
- Understanding the 3 Main Ways to Prep a Deck.
- Unsure how to Prep? Ask me for Help!
1. Determine Deck Condition
How to best prep your Deck could vary on many scenarios:
- Is the wood new or old?
- Does it have a previous coating on the wood?
- Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time?
- When was the last time it was stained?
- What type of stain was it coated with before?
A better way to approach the deck prepping question is to ask, “What is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age?”
2. The three main ways to prep a deck are:
- Deck Cleaning followed by Wood Brightening
- Deck Stripping followed by Wood Brightening
- Power Sanding
- Or a combination of the above
Wood and Deck Cleaning Prep
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, deck cleaners typically do not remove old deck stains or paints. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed. See here for more Deck Cleaning tips.
My Pro Tip: Do not use bleach-based deck cleaners. They are bad for the doo fibers and your environment. Examples include Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. See Deck Cleaner Reviews.
Wood and Deck Stripping Prep
Deck stain strippers are designed to remove deck coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, semi-transparent stains, and some semi-solid stains. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a shine like a varnish cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance. See Deck Stripper Reviews. See here for more Deck Stripping tips.
My Pro Tip: If you have a Solid Stain, Deck Paint, or Varnish on your deck, you could try a Paint Stripper like the RAD PaintStrip to remove the coating.
Scott’s How To Strip A Deck Stain Video
Sanding a Wood Deck For Prep
I am not a fan of sanding a deck, but in some cases, it is needed as stripping may not fully remove the old coatings. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40—or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
My Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
3. What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
Deck Prepping Product Articles
My deck boards are cracked. What is the best filler to use? I have used a wood filler but it popped out a year later..
You cannot use wood fillers on a deck. Doesn’t work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
I read about PC Woody being a good filler. Anybody has any experience with it?
Doubt it will work.
1. Wood is pressure treated – 2 years old.
2. Currently coated with a semi-transparent oil-based stain.
3. Switching brands based on your website’s recommendations.
4. current stain – Sikkens ProLuxe Cetol SRD
5. current stain – Oil-based, semi-transparent
6. Some mildew
7. Unknown reason for failure
I appreciate any advice you can give me for refinishing…thanks!
For prep, strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. Stain with TWP or Armstrong Clark stains.
I used Thompson’s tinted water seal over their clear product that had been on the deck for several years and this is what happened after one winter. They told me that the two stains are different products are not compatible and must sand or strip to remove this mess. I am looking for a stripper product that is bio degradable so I won’t damage surrounding grass and plants.
Sorry, but you will need to power sand to fix this. Strippers will not work very well.
ZI have a 15 year old deck that wasn’t stained until 2 years ago when it was cleaned with Behr but not brightened, and had an oil based gray stain (brand unknown but could probably find again). I just cleaned it with Behr today using power washer and a good scrubbing. Most of the deck gets full sun 6 hours and 1/3 gets little to no sun, so problems with mold and mildew. Open to any type of prep and stain. Live in Nashville so sun, heat and humidity 8 months of the year. Also, I was told that deck boards need to be placed with the grain in a “frown”, and this deck is about 50/50. I notice that the ones installed with a “smile” hold water more than the others. Should any boards be turned over, and is so, should the stained side be sanded first? Small deck about 10×12.
You will need to fully remove this gray if swtichng brands to another semi-transparent stain. Strip and then sand to remove all. Brightener after. No issues with the deck boards curve and the need to flip them. That is overkill.
Thanks so much! Y’all provide a great service! ( a little TN for you this morning!)
We have just replaced about 2/3 of our deck with brown treated decking due to rot. The deck was coated two years ago with Sherwin Williams solid color deck stain carefully following instructions. It has failed miserably. All the boards are peeling. I would rather not use solid color stain again, but since some boards are new and some old with peeling paint there doesn’t seem to be many options. I can’t imagine sanding it ( the deck is 30’x30′). I have used stripper on furniture, but with all the variations in levels and deck screws it would be hard. What do you use for stripper? Is there an easier way?
You cannot strip a solid stain effectively. Best to sand it all off or you will have to redo with a solid stain. Another option is to replace all the wood since you are 2/3 down.
See this for tips on your new wood. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
What would you advise to do if I want to paint over? It looks like it’s my only option as the crevices are hard to reach. It’ll be a 2-tone deck (solid rails, stained semi boards)
You cannot use a semi-trans for the floor unless you sand all or replace all wood. As for the railings, use a solid color stain:https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
See this about two-toned decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
I have a PT pool deck that is 1.5 years old. It has never been treated. The wood was rough from not being touched with any product so I sanded it to ensure no splinters. I was told I needed to “clean” the wood so I purchased and used Olympics wood cleaner. This was a big mistake. My smooth, freshly sanded deck (which took me 7 hours to complete) is now fairly rough and “fuzzy!” Based on what I have read, I now need to “de-furr” it? Please advise as to what next steps I should take to get my deck ready to water seal. I do not want to waste any more time.
Please advise! Thank you!
Try renting a floor buffer and sanding pad to remove the fuzzies.
1. Old PT pine
2. peeling BEHR Premium semi-transparent stain
3. would like to “apply mx coat of same brand & color” but receptive to “switching brands”
4, BEHR
5. see #2
6. minor mildew
7. prep failure and using snow blower [rubber paddles]
If you want to switch brands you will need to strip and sand to remove. Brightener after. If staying with the same color and brand, use a deck cleaner for prep. Pressure wash while prepping with the prep products.
I have a 2 year old redwood deck that I stained for the first time this week with Arborcoat. Hate the color and going to sand it off. Do I need to wait after sanding to apply the new stain?
Yes.
How long? I’m selling the house next week. Waiting 24 hours is sufficient?
After the sanding lightly pressure rinse well. Let dry for 24-48 hours before staining.
1. The deck is about 3-5 years old
2. The deck was stained about 1 year ago, it was stained with SuperDeck semi-solid stain but is starting to peel is certain areas.
3. I’m not sure what I will be using. I might stick with the semi-solid stain. I’m up for taking suggestions on what best to use. The deck gets a lot of sun.
4. SuperDeck semi-solid cedar color
5. Semi Solid
6. Yes mold and mildew issues
7. Not sure what the reason for failure was. I live in Southern Maryland.
I wasn’t sure if i could just use a cleaning & a brightener then use a similar semi solid stain. Looking for any advice here. Thanks for the input.
It will need to be removed. Strip and pressure wash first. Sand after to remove all. Brightener last.
Should I clean and brighten this deck before sanding? It’s supposed to rain tomorrow and then a 2 days of fair weather. Would like to sand and stain during those days. I heard that you have to re-sand if rain gets on it before staining. Is that true?
You do not have to clean this first. Go ahead and sand. 60-80 grit paper. Final prep will be a cleaner and wood brightener. You do not re-sand if it gets wet.
Deck is cedar, 7 years old
Did have a coating, that’s clearly coming off, that was put on 4 years ago
Switching brands
Used Cabot, water based previously, not sure about the finish
No mold or mildew issues
Deck faces east. Live in Michigan so deck will experience the 4 seasons — rain, snow, heat and humidity
Should I clean and sand or use a stripper and sand? What’s the purpose of a brightening solution and should I use one? Once the prep work is complete, do you suggest a stain or a penetrating timber oil? What about a sealer? So confusing with all the products on the market!
Thanks for your help!
Strip first. Sand if needed after. Brightener last. The brightener is needed to neutralize the stripper and it allows the stain to soak in better.
Deck that is 2 years old. this will be 3rd summer
Current coating Behr semi transparent stain 6year water based( terrible)
Switching to restore a deck
Lots of Peeling and some midew issues every year since application
It currently looks worse than photos taken after year 1.
I am on ocean front and covered portion has weathered well but part open to elements not well.
Thanks for input
Strip off what you can. Sand the rest off and then brighten all wood when done.
I have a deck that is about 35 years old and has been stained but I do not know the type stain. I have just had it cleaned and they used a power circular hard bristled machine to clean the deck and I am not sure what other products they used, which caused problems with the wood and took off the stain in some areas and not others. Now I am left with a mess and some damaged wood and boards to be replaced. My question is now what? Do I use a cleaner before I stain and what type of stain will do the best job for me. I am in NC so think both types of stain is ok to use here.
Post some pictures.
we have new cedar posts and railings with 4 year old pressure treated floor boards. We would like to use Wolman durastain semi transparent stain. How should we prep both the new cedar and the old pressure treated wood?
Yes, prep all wood. Clean and brighten the wood. Might want to look at a better stain as well. The Wolman has issues: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wolman-durastain-review/
1) Older Wood (Deck was stained 2 years ago.
2) Does the Deck have a Current Coating? YES
3) Switching brands based on your recommendations to Restore-A-Deck. I want to do a two-tone deck with the solid classic white on the railings/verticals and based on what you said to do a semi-transparent on the horizontals.
4) Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Yes, I feel like the stain we used looks like a solid stain but the brand is Thompson/s Water Seal Deck & House semi-transparent oil stain color tint base. (see picture)
5) What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Semi-Transparent Oil Stain
6) Mold or Mildew Issues? Minor, more chipping of stain.
7) Reason for Previous Stain Failure? None
8) You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
What do I need to do to prep the deck to use a solid white stain on the verticals/railings? Also, does it look like the stain we used on the horizontals is a semi-solid or solid? I’m afraid that with this type of stain that a semi-transparent will not cover the horizontal deck boards as nice as a semi-solid or solid would? What issues could I run into with using the Restore-A-Deck solid stain color say gray on my horizontal boards? Thank you so much for all your work you put into this site to help us out.
For a two-toned look, you will need to pressure wash with a stripper all verticals. This will remove the loos and peeling stain as much as possible. Cover this with two coats of the RAD Solid Stain. For the floors, you have to remove this if you want a true semi-transparent and that means it will have to be power sanded. If you do not want to do this, then you will need a solid stain to cover what you have.
Thanks so much for the response and advice! For the floor I would do the same as the verticals then if I want to use a solid stain as well pressure wash and stripper just enough to remove the peeling stain correct? Do I need to use the RAD cleaner and/or brightener or just the stripper? Thanks again!
Correct on the floors if going solid. No need for the cleaner.
What about a brightener?
Yes, use a brightener.
Hi, thanks for your help.
1. Old wood (except for the seven new planks I just installed to replace the rotting ones)
2. Current coating (applied about four years ago) is basically gone, except for the railings.
3. Haven’t chosen a new coat yet
4. Thompson’s Woodland Cedar semi-transparent
5. Haven’t chosen one yet
6. Some mold/mildew in cracks of wood
7. Waited too long to stain again.
I’ve pressure-washed the deck, and and now wondering if I need to strip the railings. Also, I’m wondering if I need to sand, and then clean and brighten, and what order all this should come in.
Also, since I just recently installed seven new planks, how long should I wait before staining them?
Thanks so much. Your site is invaluable.
-You should strip and brighten all wood. No need to clean
-You do not need to sand, unless you want to remove all the pressure washing marks that you did to the wood. That will show through with a transparent deck stain.
-See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hi, we purchased the house a year ago and have done nothing to the deck.
1.I’d say older
2. Seems like no previous coating/completely worn off (but probably had been oil if anything)
3. New brand entirely (Defy Extreme or TWP 100)
4. unknown
5. na
6. Located in Georgia, so probably mold/mildew issues (green mold on new wood posts and some underneath the boards)
7. na
I’ve cleaned and pressure washed. Getting ready to sand, then use brightener. Still at a crossroad in choosing between Defy Extreme or TWP!
Clean first and then brightener after the sanding. Either stain will work well for you in Georgia.
We have almost finished stripping our deck. Do we brighten it next and then sand or sand and then brighten? We have guys who will lightly sand the deck because the stripper didn’t remove 100% of the old stain. Once they’re here, they’re not going to want to leave and come back so I can brighten. Would it work to brighten and then have them sand?
Sand first and brightener after.
I have a 25 year old cedar deck that I have maintained at least ever 2 years. The deck is on Long Island, NY and gets about 50% full sun.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? I want to switch brands based on your recoommendation.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? The 2 most recent applications have been the Behr’s premium semi-transparent waterproofing stain and sealer. After only 1 year it is peeling badly on the deck but doing OK on the railings.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-
Mold or Mildew Issues? Only on the North facing railings, not the deck
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? I’m not sure. Since this deck has been stained many times over the years, my guess is that it needs to be sanded down as close to bare wood as possible before staining.
I welcome any suggestions. Your website is very helpful. Thanks. Bob K.
Yes, sand to remove all. Clean and brighten the wood for final prep.
Trying to find one of the cleaners you recommended.
Would have to order your top 3.
Want to get started today
You seem to like the Flood Brand.
How about their wood cleaner?
I also see Thompson, Cabot,
Thanks!
This is for a new deck. I’ve waited a couple months now. I was going to sand but you recommended not to.
We do not like any of those brands. Do you have any other brands locally? Defy can be found at Do-it Best Stores.
I’m going to be buying a sander today for workin on my new deck. Not a large deck. 14’x8’
Is there an orbital sander you prefer over the rest.
Than you
Doesn’t matter on the brand of the sander.
Have a 15 year old balcony in decent shape. Location is Baltimore County Maryland. Had it power washed about 5 years ago and applied TWP oil based stain. Want to use the TWP product again but questioning whether to power wash, stripping/brightening, or just cleaning/brightening. Concerned about plant life below the balcony.
Use TWP’s Gemini Cleaner and Brightener Restore Kit.
My 2000 sq ft deck is a mess. Brand new deck that I let cure for one year and followed the Behr directions to a T in prep and application. The semi transparent deck stain started to peel after year one. Also lots of mildew. It was tacky forever after application. Vertical boards seem to be ok and I have a covered porch area that is also fine with no peeling. I have power washed and will apply the Behr cleaner…I would like to use a different product this time but because the deck wraps all the way around my house and the vertical boards are all ok it would save a LOT of time if I could just reapply what was on there. I do not want to strip and sand everything off. Ugh. Any suggestions? FYI – Behr paid me $5000 for ruining my deck. I had to sign an agreement that I would not sue them later. Lol.
Also of note – The house is in the woods by a lake…so the deck is in the shade most of the day and we live in Ohio. I am not sure that any stain will work well.
You have no choice but to remove all the Behr unless you want to repeat the same issues. Strip and sand to remove. Brightener after. If you received $5000, then hire someone who knows how to remove it. It will be your best option.
What is the best way to remove mill glaze on new Douglas fir deck?
Deck cleaner and pressure washing. Brightener after.
Thanks for the help.
Really appreciate all the time you’ve put into this web site. Wish I had discovered it before having stain issues!
Brand new deck in spring 2016. Sanded, cleaned, stained with Olympic Maximum semi-trans in fall 2016. Stain failed miserably within 18 months. Reapplied in fall 2018 following same steps and failed within 6 months! Planning to now do probably with your well-rated Restore-A-Deck. Want to be sure I do it right so it doesn’t fail again!
1) Wood is now 3 years old
2) Yes – Has partially failed coatings of Olympic Maximum
3) Switching brands
4) Olympic Maximum water-based Semi-transparent in Caramel
5) water-based semi-transparent
6) no mold or mildew
7)Reason for previous failure – product formulation
What do I need to do for prep this time? Want to stay with semi-transparent stain and as close in color to the Olympic Caramel as I can. I’m thinking the Light Walnut for Restore-A-Deck. Pictures attached are of the above mentioned deck as it looks now.
Also, have 2 other decks that are 20+ years old that have been stained maybe every 6 years with Olympic Maximum BEFORE it became water-based. These have had no problems at all and have held up well & look good. But it’s now coming up on time to re-stain and I definitely do not want to use Olympic Maximum again after this last fiasco! Current color is still good on these but they are not repelling water like they used to. Would a clear waterproofing product be best? What about for future applications? Suggestions?
Thank you!
Sandy
You will have to remove this product when switching brands. Strip and brighten the wood. Sand after to remove all. Once it is down to the bare wood, you can switch to the RAD Light Walnut.
For the other decks, you cannot use a clear sealer over a deck stain. You will need to strip and brighten those as well if switching brands.
Thank you for your quick response. I figured it would need a total strip to start all over.
As to the other decks already stained with Olympic Maximum-
In the past I have just cleaned these & then applied a new coat of Olympic Maximum with no problems. Do you feel that I can do that this time and use the Olympic Maximum again where it previously was oil-based & is now water-based? Or is that now going to be an issue? Would I need to clean only or clean and brighten? Really not looking forward to all of this additional work so hoping to avoid complete stripping if possible.
Thanks again
That will be an issue plus the water-based version is not so good. You will need to strip.
Older deck in a heavily shaded area. I am not certain if any protection was applied by the previous owner. Definitely has mold/mildew issues. Boards were fastened with nails and I have some ‘pops’ as well. Appreciate the guidance.
Use a deck cleaner and pressure washer for prep. Brighten all wood after. Stain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
1. old wood
2 yes I think Super deck semi transparent
3. New not sure which one
4. Super Deck
5 oil base
6 mild mildew
We are currently redoing our deck. We will be adding new wood and saving some of the old wood. The new wood is Western cedar which we have cut and milled from dead trees on our land and the old is Port Orford cedar.
The first picture is of part of the deck that is badly damaged and will be replaced, second picture is the part of the deck that is covered and in good condition and the third is some of the deck that I have applied stain stripper to and I am waiting for it to dry.
My main question is since we are combining the two different woods as well as using some old and new woods together, should i stain the deck with a solid stain to get more consistency or would I be able to use a semi transparent? What steps should I take to prepare the deck. Thank you so much
The pictures are out of order 1st pic old good wood, second pic stripped, third old damaged wood.
We would stay semi-transparent. The new wood will be lighter but will blend over time. Strip and brighten all for prep.
So I cleaned and brightened my deck to prep for stain a week ago only to open my leftover can of stain and find that it was now jelly (lessons were learned). I am now waiting for some new TWP 100 to arrive. In the interim I have kept my deck sealed off from people and dogs walking on it, to try to keep it somewhat clean. I’m not sure how soon the weather will allow me to stain once my stain arrives. If my deck has been kept clean would I need to re-clean and brighten again before staining? How much time can elapse between cleaning and staining? Thanks. Obviously going for best results here.
As long as you stain within 2 weeks of prep, you are okay.
1.) Deck was built new in July of 2015. Southern Yellow Pine
2.) Yes, applied in 2015
3.) I am staying with the same brand as used previously for the sake of simplicity.
4.) Olympic
5.) Stain + sealant in semi transparent red. Acrylic water based
6.). Yes both in various parts of the deck. Not terribly infested with either but it is here. The deck does not get a bunch of sunlight. Only sporadically throughout the day.
7.) It lasted longer than I expected. It is currently almost 4 years old.
I am scheduled to get it restained in July. Would cleaning it with a power washer and a bleach solution be sufficient prior to applying the same stain as used before? Should I reuse semi transparent or go solid?
Use a deck cleaner (not bleach) and pressure washing for prep if using the same brand and color. No need for a solid stain.
What a great site, thanks for all your work.
I have a one year old pine deck that was originally stained with Sherwin Williams SuperDeck SemiTransparent stain. It has a lot of mud stains that will not fully come off with pressure washing with water so I was going to restain with the same Sherwin Williams stain mentioned above.
Should I just pressure wash and apply a new coat of stain?
If I use a mild cleaner/brightener like the Behr Premium All in one deck cleaner would it remove the original stain?
Would you recommend another product for a situation like this- where only a light cleaning/brightening is necessary?
I would rather not take the deck down to bare wood.
Your best option is to change brands and that will require stripping and brightening. The SuperDeck is an average stain at best and there are better. If you do not want to strip, then clean and brighten and use the same SuperDeck and color as last time.
What would you recommend for just a mild cleaner/brightener? Would the Behr Premium All in One deck cleaner work for that? I do not want to strip.
See this about cleaners: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-cleaners/
Behr does not make a good deck cleaner.
This semi-transparent stain (Sherwin williams) was applied 3 years ago on a 10 year old deck. Going with a darker semi-solid color (differnet brand) this year. Should I sand this old stain off, strip it, or can I just apply the darker semi-solid stain over it?
When switching brands, you will need to remove the current stain. The stain you have on the wood now cannot be stripped off. You will need to sand this off.
What type of sander and grit do you recommend?
Power sanders. 60-80 grit paper.
Great forum, thanks for the work behind it.
I have an older deck, which I stained with a semi-transparent Behr stain 4 years ago. To prep for new stain, I cleaned and power washed a portion of the deck, as shown in the first photo. I still have a lot of deck to go; the second photo shows the green grime. A few questions:
– should I stop power washing and strip, brighten and stain? Or keep washing then strip?
– can I use another product? I’d like to get away from the Behr semi-transparent product as it didn’t hold well. If so, must I stick with semi-transparent?
Thanks,
That looks solid, not semi-transparent and will not fully strip off. If you want to switch brands, you will need to strip what you can (maybe 50%) and then sand the rest off. If you do not want to power sand, then you will need to use a solid stain to cover the stain that does not strip off.
Ok, thanks – I appreciate the quick reply. I know it may look solid, but it’s Behr’s Premium Semi-Transparent Weather Proofing all in one stain and sealer. If I keep that brand and use the exact same product, am I ok stripping and then reapplying the same product? If I strip, what product would you recommend. Thanks again.
If you want to use the same color and brand, then you do not need to strip fully. You can try cleaning and reapplying.
New Wood or Older Wood? 1 year old cedar deck
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Thompson’s water seal
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching brand of stain
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Only Thompson’s water seal has been applied.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? See above
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? N/A
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition
Strip and pressure wash to remove the clear coating. Brightener after. It will be an easy strip. Do you know what stain you will be using?
Any suggestions would be welcome. I was thinking about Olympic elite.
We are not fans of the Olympic and you can read the reviews on this site. See this for our top-rated stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
We have a large 2 year old cedar deck with Cabot clear protector. Most of the clear coat on the lower level appears to be gone (especially where we manually scrubbed berry stain in a large section using Dawn dishwashing detergent) but under a covered area it’s not. Water does not bead up on any of the deck. We’re wanting to use PPG ProLuxe CETOL SRD transparent stain this time. Do we need to use a stripper first? Or maybe just sand? And, if we use a stripper, do we need to use a cleaner or just a brightener? We’ve been told both ways about using a cleaner after the stripper. We’re considering using Penofin stripper, cleaner, brightener since we can purchase it locally. Opinions on Penofin, please.
Your opinions are appreciated.
Yes, strip and then brighten for prep. No need for a cleaner. Penofin makes average prep products.
I live in the Chicago area and have a 4 year old cedar deck I stained with TWP 1501 Cedartone after waiting 6 months. 2 years later all the horizontal surfaces were worn and I had black mold. I power washed and prepped with RAD stripper and brightener and restained with TWP. Now it looks terrible again so wondering the best way to prep and whether I should switch to the top rated water based RAD or Defy or should stick with TWP. With all the great reviews of TWP, was surprised that it didn’t hold up well. The vertical surfaces are doing better than the horizontal, but I can see mold so probably should be restained at some point. My yard is heavily wooded so the deck gets a limited amount of morning sun. Appreciate any advice. Thanks.
2-3 years is the best you will get with a deck stain on a horizontal surface. You could switch but the results will be similar. You will have less mold/mildew with the Defy and RAD.
Hi. I was planning to stain my deck, so I cleaned and power washed it. Then I realized I needed to replace a few board, including the handrails. From everything I read I need to wait before staining the new pre-treated boards, but I am concerned with the fact I have already power washed everything. My deck is really old, 25 years. I feel like it would not be good to leave these older boards unprotected very long. How should I handle this situation? Do I stain the old boards and wait to stain the new boards in a few months, or is it okay to wait several months before doing it all at once…..meaning the old boards will be okay?
Also, please give me more information on the brightening product you mentioned. Is this an additional step and product then just power washing my deck? How is it applied, etc.
Lastly, what thoughts do you have on using fillers for cracks in the wood? Is this advisable?
Thank you for the help!
If it just a few boards, go ahead and stain all. The new boards will need another coat in the Fall or Spring.
Brighteners are for neutralizing a deck cleaner or wood deck stripper to lower the pH balance. It is not used as a standalone product.
Never use crack filler on decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
1. older wood, 10+ years
2. Cannot see any sign of current coating
3. Yes, not sure what to, would like a semi transparent
4. Behr weather proofing woodfinish
5. oil based
6. Mold in one place where deck meets siding
7. Age, just looks grey
I live in Chicago, deck is on roof so mostly gets full sun.
I’d like to know what you suggest for prep and type of stain.
Thank you
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series.
We are trying to get our fence in shape to stain it. It’s about 2 – 3 years old, never been stained. We have power washed it and scrubbed and bleached and scrubbed the bottom and the algae and mold continue to be there. My goal is to keep the fence up and functional for as long as we can. Is it imperative for us to remove the mold and algae? I am thinking so; it’s just been so much work thus far! After reading here, it sounds as if sanding may be our only option. These stains are just above ground level. We will take any advise you can give us. Thanks in advance!
That is a combination of water stains with algae and mildew and much of it is internal. Try 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Apply and see if that helps.
Thanks! When you say internal damage, does that mean rot? And, how long should I leave the water/bleach on before I rinse it off?
Internally stained with the water, not damaged. I doubt it is rotting yet. Leave on for 10 minutes and then rinse.
Thank you so much!!!!
Hey, bought a house in the autumn and looking to rejuvenate the deck. We’re in the process of jet washing but it looks very tired and there’s still some paint/stain left, especially in the grooves.
Just wondering what to do next, whether it’s worth applying any stripper or cleaner or whether to crack on with treating it.
Also whether we’d be best using oil or stain (we’re in the UK for the record).
Use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener with the pressure washing for best results. Stain with a penetrating semi-transparent oil based stain.
We used RAD stripper and have leftover RAD water. Can you tell me how we should dispose of that?
Neutralize it with the brightener then you can dispose of it anywhere.
Hi. Great site!
I am looking to help a friend refinish his deck. We were planning to reuse the same product that his son put on three years ago, but after I read the review on here, I’m thinking we should go a different route. The horizontal surfaces are extremely worn. The vertical railings/balusters are not too bad. Should we use the RAD stripper with additives on everything, and resort to sanding the horizontal surfaces if need be to get old coating 100% off? Or can RAD solid surface be applied over any remaining old stain that doesn’t come off with stripper and power washing? Is a brightener required for the RAD solid surface product, or does that only apply when using a transparent stain? Is it better to try and utilize a transparent stain rather than go back to a solid color stain, to improve wear and tear, and to simplify future refinishing? We really don’t want to have to sand all of the railings and balusters in order to switch products, but original is a redwood color, and RAD does not have that available. Would one of the darker RAD solid colors effectively hide the redwood if we don’t sand the vertical surfaces? Thanks for any help!
1) older pressure treated wood (appox 9 years old)
2)current coating is 3 years old
3)looking to switch to a better option
4) BEHR solid color all-in-one wood stain and sealer
5)100% acrylic solid stain
6)minor near where bushes overhang
7)wear and tear is some of it, but seems excessive for only a few years
8) sorry for lack of pics. I only took a couple for color reference when measuring deck the other day. One is a post, showing vertical surface isn’t too bad.
Strip all. This will give you a head start on the sanding. Sand the horizontals to remove the solid stain 100%. Brighten the wood after. Use a solid stain like the RAD Solid for the verticals to cover the Behr Solid Stain. Use a semi-transparent color for the horizontals.
Much appreciated. Thank you!
I bought a house in upstate NY in Aug ’18. The deck wasn’t in horrible shape when I moved in but after the winter it has started to peel fairly bad. I think the previous owner threw a quick coat of stain on before selling the house and didn’t prep the wood (can’t blame him).
1. Old wood
2. Yes
3. Switching brands
4. Previously finished in Olympic Elite
5. Water based, semi-transparent
6. Yes, but not too bad
7. Unsure, likely poor prep by previous home owner
I’m assuming the steps will be strip, dry, sand, brighten, dry, and stain. Is the sanding step always needed or is it a case-by-case basis? Also, the weather doesn’t always cooperate where I live… if there is rain in between a step will that cause any issue?
Your steps are correct and most likely the stripping will not remove all of this so in your case, sanding will most likely be required as well. Rain does not harm the prep.
Try the stripper additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Looking to get rid of failed solid stain (last years) and planning strip and sand. Finding a bout of nice enough weather up here to finish the job in a single shot is next to impossible. Is it ok to strip and sand and then allow to get rained on, or will I just need to sand again? Thanks.
Condition
It can rain on the wood after the prep.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this awesome site!
I’m in western NC and have a lot of deck space: largest on the SE side, with 2/3 of it getting full sun; small one on the NE side which gets sun in the morning; and a small one on the SW side which is mostly shaded. They’re all on the second level, so there are also about 15 steps – which are on the NE side. I’m pretty certain it’s all PT pine. It’s been fairly well maintained but was NOT properly prepped in the past prior to being stained.
Answers to your questions:
1) 15 years old
2) Yes, but it varies tremendously from almost none on the SE side to almost new under the doormat on the NE side.
3) I plan to use the TWP 100.
4 & 5) Last couple of times: Olympic Wood Protector / Sealant / Clear – which I’m pretty sure is oil based; prior to that I don’t know other than that it was semi-transparent.
6) Some but not extensive
7) I can’t say that it failed, just that it’s been two years and the horizontal surfaces need a new coat.
Now my questions:
1) For the HORIZONTAL surfaces, I plan to use RAD stripper then citric acid (want to avoid oxalic acid for environmental reasons). Would those be the proper steps?
2) For the VERTICAL surfaces, they are in pretty good shape so only need a good cleaning. Would using sodium percarbonate on them damage the coating that’s there? Would I need to follow with citric acid if I’m not staining, or would just the SP be OK?
Again, thanks a million!
Need pictures.
So sorry; I totally spaced on attaching them, even tho I took them several days ago.
These are all of the SE deck.
The first one is under the doormat on the NE deck. The others are the SW deck.
Thanks!
You will need the two additives for the RAD stripper. Your current coating(s) look thick on the floors: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
You have to stip the railings as well as you cannot apply a different brand of stain like TWP over what you currently have on it.
The RAD Brightener contains citric acid as well. A buffered blend.
Apparently I was misinformed: I was told it was OK to use a different *brand* of stain as long as it was the same *type*; e.g., semi-transparent oil-based. Since it’s not feasible for me to strip that amount of vertical surfaces myself (see add’l photos), is there any other acceptable DIY alternative?
Again, many thanks.
(I posted this earlier but then it disappeared.) Apparently I was misinformed: I was told it was OK to use a different *brand* of stain as long as it was the same *type*; e.g., semi-transparent oil-based. I really want to do this right but since it’s not feasible for me to strip that amount of vertical surfaces myself (see add’l photos), is there any other acceptable DIY alternative?
Again, many thanks.