This post was updated on April 27, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2026
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain?
Proper deck preparation is the most important step when it comes to staining exterior wood. From my experience restoring decks since 1993, most stain failures are caused by poor prep—not the stain itself.
If the wood is not cleaned, stripped (if needed), and brightened correctly, the stain will not penetrate properly and will fail much sooner than it should.
This guide will help you determine whether your deck needs to be cleaned, stripped, or sanded—and how to prep it correctly before staining.
Proper prep is critical, but choosing the best deck stain afterward is what determines long-term performance.
Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
🔹 Step 1: Determine Your Deck Condition
Before starting, you need to identify your deck’s current condition. This will determine the proper prep method.
Common Deck Conditions:
- New Wood – Needs weathering and light prep
- Grayed or weathered wood – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Previously stained wood (good condition) – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Failing or peeling stain – Requires stripping or sanding
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Step 2: Cleaning the Deck
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
🔹 How To Deck Cleaning Tips
- Use a quality wood deck cleaner
- Apply evenly and allow proper dwell time
- Pressure wash for heavily soiled areas
- Rinse thoroughly
Cleaning alone is not enough—you must follow with a brightener.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
👉 Deck Cleaning Tips
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 3: Brightening the Wood
Brightening is a critical step that many homeowners skip.
- Restores natural wood color
- Neutralizes the wood after cleaning
- Opens the pores for better stain penetration
- Helps ensure even stain color
Skipping this step can lead to blotchy or uneven results.
👉 Deck Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
🔹 Step 4: Stripping the Deck (When Needed)
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a varnish-like shine cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure-washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
🔹 You should strip your deck if:
- Stripping is required when old coatings are preventing proper absorption
- The old stain is peeling or uneven
- The coating is a solid or heavy film
- You are changing stain brands or the type of stain
- Removes old coatings for better penetration
- May require multiple applications
- Must be followed by brightening
👉 How to Strip a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
🔹 Step 5: Sanding (When Necessary)
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
Sanding is sometimes needed, but should not be your first option.
- Use when wood is rough, splintered, or heavily coated
- Helps smooth the surface if it’s very rough
Important: Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration. never sand finer than 60-80 grit.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 6: Dry Time Before Staining
After prep, the wood must dry completely unless using the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
- Allow 24–48 hours depending on weather
- Wood should feel dry to the touch
- Moisture content should be low
Staining damp wood is one of the most common causes of failure.
🔹 Recommended Deck Prep Products
Using the right products at each stage will make a huge difference in your final results.
For Cleaning and Brightening:
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System (top choice for prep)
For Stripping (if needed):
- Restore-A-Deck deck stain strippers (depending on coating type)
For Staining:
- Penetrating oil-based stains (TWP, Armstrong Clark)
- Water-based stains (Restore-A-Deck)
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Common Deck Prep Mistakes
From my experience, these are the most common mistakes:
- Skipping the brightener step
- Not removing old coatings fully
- Over-sanding with too fine a grit
- Not allowing enough dry time
Avoiding these mistakes will significantly improve your results.
🔹 Final Thoughts on Deck Prep
Proper deck prep is the foundation of any successful staining project. No matter how good the stain is, it will not perform correctly without proper preparation.
From my hands-on experience, taking the time to clean, strip (if needed), and brighten your deck correctly will result in a better-looking finish that lasts longer and requires less maintenance.
If you follow these steps, your stain will perform the way it should, and your deck will be much easier to maintain over time.
Pressure Washing Tips for Deck Cleaning or Stripping
Power washing can speed up the deck cleaning process, but it should only be used by those with experience. Improper use can damage the wood and result in costly repairs. If you do choose to use a power washer, follow these guidelines to avoid harming your deck:
-
Always use a deck cleaner or deck stain stripper first. These products do 90% of the cleaning work. The power washer should only be used to rinse off the loosened grime—not as the main cleaning method.
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Treat the power washer like a rinse tool, not a scrub brush. Use it to gently wash away the cleaner or stripper, not to grind dirt off the surface.
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Use a sweeping, pendulum-style motion. Work with the grain of the wood and never pause or reverse direction without lifting the wand. Failing to maintain a smooth motion can leave permanent “stop marks” in the wood.
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Keep pressure between 1200–2000 PSI. Even if you’re using a 3000 PSI machine, distance matters. Washing from 8–12 inches away will reduce the effective pressure to a safer level for wood surfaces.
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Exercise caution. If you’re unsure about your technique or have never used a power washer on wood before, it’s best to hire a professional. Incorrect use can permanently damage your deck.
🔹 Prep by Deck Condition
Not all decks require the same prep process. The key is understanding your deck’s current condition and using the correct method before staining.
From my experience, using the wrong prep method is one of the biggest reasons stains fail early.
🔸 New Wood Decks
New wood cannot be stained right away. It must be properly weathered and prepped to allow the stain to absorb.
- Let wood weather for 3–6 months
- Clean and brighten before staining
- Do not sand too smooth, as this can reduce absorption
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔸 Grayed or Weathered Wood
If your deck has turned gray from sun exposure, it needs to be cleaned and brightened.
- Use a wood cleaner to remove dirt and oxidation
- Follow with a brightener to restore color
- This will help open the wood pores for stain absorption
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔸 Previously Stained Deck (Good Condition)
If your deck has an existing stain that is still in good shape, you can usually clean and recoat.
- Clean and brighten the wood
- Make sure the existing stain is of stain brand and color
- Apply a maintenance coat before full wear
This is the easiest scenario and requires the least amount of prep.
🔸 Peeling or Failing Stain
If your deck has peeling, flaking, or uneven stain, it must be stripped before applying a new coat.
- Use a deck stripper to remove old coatings
- May require multiple applications
- Always follow with a brightener after stripping
Skipping this step will lead to poor results and uneven staining.
👉 How to Strip a Deck Stain
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔸 Rough or Splintered Wood
If the wood surface is rough or splintered, sanding may be needed.
- Light sanding can smooth the surface
- Do not over-sand, as it can reduce stain penetration
- Clean and brighten after sanding
Sanding should be used only when necessary, not as a default step.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Prep by Deck Condition
If you are unsure which category your deck falls into, start with cleaning and evaluate how the wood responds. If water does not absorb into the surface, additional prep such as stripping may be needed.
✅ Deck Prep FAQs
🔍 Cleaning & Brightening
Do I need to clean my deck before staining?
Yes. Cleaning removes dirt, mildew, and residue so the new stain can properly penetrate the wood.
Do I have to use a wood brightener after cleaning?
Yes. Brightening restores the wood’s pH balance and helps the stain absorb evenly. Skipping this step can lead to blotchy results.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🧱 Stripping vs Cleaning
How do I know if my deck needs to be stripped?
If the old stain is peeling, uneven, or water does not absorb into the wood, stripping is usually required. It is also needed when switching stain brands or types.
Can I just clean and recoat my deck without stripping?
Yes, but only if the existing stain is in good condition and compatible with the new stain. Otherwise, stripping is recommended.
🪵 Sanding
Should I sand my deck before staining?
Only if necessary. Sanding is typically used for rough wood or failed coatings. Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration.
⏳ Drying & Timing
How long should I wait to stain after cleaning the deck?
Wait 24–48 hours, depending on weather conditions, to ensure the wood is fully dry before staining.
What happens if I stain a damp deck?
Staining damp wood can lead to poor penetration, uneven color, and premature failure.
⚠️ Common Mistakes
What is the most common mistake when prepping a deck?
Skipping the brightener step or failing to fully remove old coatings before staining.
🆕 New Deck Prep
Do I need to prep new wood before staining?
Yes. New wood should be properly weathered, cleaned, and brightened before applying stain.
👉 Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🛠 Process & Order
What is the correct order for prepping a deck?
- ✔ Clean (or strip if needed)
- ✔ Brighten
- ✔ Let the wood dry
- ✔ Apply stain
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Deck Prepping
From my experience, proper prep is what determines how long your stain will last. If you take shortcuts here, the stain will fail early no matter how good the product is.
Deck Prepping Product Articles
What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
I had my deck rebuilt just a couple of years ago. It was a nightmare. I went through 4-5 different contractors and they all were terrible.
My problem, as you will see in the pictures, is black mold. I assume the painter didn’t wait long enough for the wood to dry before staining.
My question is simple. Where do I go from here. I have tried several techniques to eliminate the mold but none of them have been affective at completely eliminating the mold.
I can remove a good deal of the black from scrubbing but I suspect that appearance aside the mold is still inside the wood.
the four pictures give you a sense of the extent of the mold problem
It is clear that just scrubbing isn’t going to do the job. Power washing will strip the paint off but it will also damage the wood.
What is my best course of action to restore the deck and eliminate the mold? I assume I will need to re-stain but what do I need to do to prep before re-staining.
Remove the stain as much as possible first. You cannot pressure wash it off so sand it all. Once down to the bare wood, try a penetrating semi-solid stain by TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Here are my answers to your questions;
I have an older deck around a pool for a house I just bought. It appears to have an old solid stain on it that’s peeling in some small areas. I plan on using RAD solid stain but I will have to replace a couple boards that are rotting. Firstly, do I need to wait a couple months to restore the deck to allow the few boards to weather after replacing them. Also, when I do restore the deck I know I need to get rid of any peeling areas but what else do I need to apply prior to application of the solid stain. From what I can tell I need to use cleaner and stripper but in what order and do I need to sand at any point if I’m just adding a layer of solid stain. And if I do need to sand how much am I looking to remove.
Thanks for your help.
Use the stripper and then the brightener to neutralize. No need for a cleaner. It will not remove all of the solid stain but whatever is peeling. You can cover the rest with the new solid stain.
How long should I wait after replacing the boards to cover the deck?
A few months.
My deck is old and was last coated with a basic Thompsons sealer about 2 years ago. It gets a lot of hot afternoon sun and appears all dried out with some black streaks. Is it necessary to strip or can I just use the Restore-A-Deck wash and then stain?
Strip and brighten for prep.
I would like to refinish my front porch. We bought our home earlier this year, so many of the answers to your questions are unknown, but I will try my best. Included in the pictures are a section of the porch that I have attempted to clean with a pressure washer and soapy water, followed by power sanding with 50 grit sandpaper after drying for several days. Neither the pressure washing nor the sanding removed the existing combination of dirt and finish very well. I’m glad I found this site to get some answers and formulate a plan before I try something else.
How should I prep this wood for a new transparent or semi-transparent finish to showcase the hardwood?
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck kits.
My deck is old, I pressure washed it but left it unstainef fir 1 year. A professional Restorstion outfit. Changed some wood planks and applied a water based stain both old and new wood without prepping it. Sherri brilliant us the water based stain. It was done on a Friday. I guess it’s cured, it’s been 30 or so more hours since. I hope the stain sticks . I could have five the staining myself if I would have known that tg were is no sanding or prep application of the deck
I’m stripping my deck with the restore a deck stripper and neutralizer system to remove old TWP stain before I apply a different TWP color. During the neutralizing phase I accidentally applied more stripper instead of neutralizer. After the deck dried I noticed the color was yellowish instead of whitish and realized my mistake. What’s the best way to neutralize the deck after it dried? Thanks
Use the brightener to neutralize and it should even out.
Should I apply the brightener to dry wood?
Damp or wet.
Thanks for the help
Looking to apply new stain to deck, has been in place for 4 years and I think it could use attention to keep it looking nice. Thanks.
Strip and brighten the wood for prep with the Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Awesome, Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
The drum sanding was done in July and then due to rain patterns the remaining hand sanding has been done over the last 2 months. Hence the silvering from sun aging butting up to the fresher sanded edges at the rails. I also have 2 patch boards in the deck that came from unused original deck material which are yellow compared to the rest.
At this point will the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kill off any remaining mildew and even out the sun silvering and patch boards?
Yes, use the RAD Kit and light pressure washing.
Here are my answers to the 8 questions:
1. Older wood (deck built in 2006)
2. Current coating: Cabot deck stain (two coats)
3. I am switching color and probably switching brand.
4. Deck Stain Brand: Cabot
5. Deck Stain Type: Oil-based, Semi-Solid (but the two coats made it look Solid)
6. No Mold or Mildew Issues
7. Previous Stain Failure: We put it on too thick and it was the wrong color!
8. See attached photos.
No photos.
Second try to upload photos.
More photos.
Two more.
In this final photo, you can see how I tried to use a palm sander to sand off the old stain from the plank along the wall on the left.
Here come the photos:
Power sand to remove is the only way to remove this white-colored stain.
Thank you. What kind of sander do you recommend? My palm sander is not sufficient. In my research on this, I have come across a lot of people using a stand-up orbital floor sander…?
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Hi. I am looking to re-stain our cottage siding, likely most recently done around 10 years ago, not sure of product. So we are changing the colour (solid stain) and likely the brand. Some areas need scraping but most is intact.
what do I need to do for surface prep – strip, brighten and clean?
do you have brand recommendation available in Canada? I made a trip to northern NY state a couple years ago to get Defy for our deck based on your recommendation – worked great, not sure I can navigate the border with all the COVID restrictions these days. For vertical surfaces will something available in Canada give good results?
thanks for any help!
Strip and brighten for prep. Sorry but no idea if any decent solid stains are available in Canada as we do not live there.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi,
There seems to be quite a bit of precipitation in my area this year and it’s often difficult to find 3 days of guaranteed dry weather so that I can clean, brighten, let the deck dry and finally stain it. If I cleaned and brightened the deck and it rained the next day, would I be able to stain the deck after it dried or would I need to clean and brighten it again? I’m using the defy cleaner and brightener with a Defy semi-transparent stain.
Wait 48 hours after rain to stain. You do not have to redo the prep.
Hi –
Two years ago I stripped, sanded, and then stained my deck w/ TWP.
In preparation for staining again, in the last week I’ve done two rounds of: clean (w/ sodium percarbonate) / pressure wash / brighten (w/ citric acid) / rinse. With the second round, I used a scrub brush on some problem areas like those in the attached photos.
Yet on a few railings (ironically, the ones in full sun, not the ones in shade) as well as a few floor boards there is STILL a trace of something green down in the wood grain. It’s minor, but I’m wondering: is it a problem? If so, what should I do about it?
THANK YOU!
It is fine to stain.
1. In 2017 our older wood porch floor was sanded to bare wood. Wood cleaner and brightener were used to prep for staining. Ready Seal stain and sealer (Pecan) was brushed on. (We don’t remember if 2 coats were used.)
2. In 2018 it had faded in places. (Very noticeable when the doormat was moved.)
3. In 2020 (late Spring) the porch floor was cleaned (We don’t remember if anything else done.)
Pittsburgh Ultra stain and sealer (Canyon Brown) was brushed on.
By winter there was bare wood mostly where the sun hit and had foot traffic, but also under the spindles. (See pics)
4. What do we do now and what product do we use this year as we are getting too old to have to do this so often???
Strip and brighten for prep and stain with TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thank you.
Can we use any stripper or brightener? What is the shelf use age of these items, including the Ready Stain?
We would suggest the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives followed by the brightener.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
I have a 9 year old cedar deck that has been stained a few times with TWP. Half the deck is covered and remains in fairly good condition, and the other half that is exposed and resists the stain and is rather worn. Should I sand the entire deck and restain with TWP or do you recommend something else. Live in midwest and deck receives afternoon sunlight and harsh winters. Will use the same TWP as previously used.
Strip and brighten all with the Restore A Deck Products.
Hi! I’d like to change to a two-tone stain for my older deck. The previous stain was a water-based semi-trans reddish cedar that is stubbornly clinging on to verticals despite two applications of Thompson’s Heavy Duty Deck Cleaner and pressure washing. Am i ok to use a solid white stain over the verticals as is? And a dark walnut oil based semi-trans on the floor boards? Thanks! Love your videos!
You are fine with the white solid stain for floors but you need to remove all of the stain on floors.
New Wood or Older Wood? Older 15+ Years (except top railing which is 2 years old)
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Very little stain left on deck boards. Some areas more than others where furniture has sat and protected. Railings seem to have decent amount of stain left. Top railings have not been stained.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? I do not know what was last used.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Unknown, but looks to be transparent.
Mold or Mildew Issues? Very little. Deck gets a decent amount of sun exposure.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? No failure, just weathered without maintenance for 7+ years.
Clean and brighten the deck with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thank you very much! I was thinking a semi-transparent stain? Is that okay?
Without knowing whether the old stain is or water based, will that matter?
Also, would you recommend the same with the vertical posts that look to still have a decent stain on them?
Last question; do you have a favorite wood filler for a couple knot wholes and a decent size gouge?
Thank again for the great forum/site and all the knowledge sharing!
Never use a wood filler on a deck. It will not work and will not blend. You can use a semi-transparent stain after prep. Your old stain will be removed with the prep. Same stain for all wood.
Thank you! Just confirming that only the cleaner and brightener needed, not the stripper?
Would the same process/products apply for a wooden, pressure treated playset? Playset was new in March of this year and has not been stained yet.
Yes and yes.
Make sure to pressure wash after applying the cleaner.
Good Morning,
There is white residue after applying deck cleaner solution and power washing yesterday afternoon. Is this oxidation due to the bleach content in the cleaner, and is it a significant concern, or is it ok to proceed to stain at this point once the deck dries completely? Thinking TWP 1500.
If it matters, deck is a few years old PT pine and has not been previously stained.
Thanks!
That is oxidation/graying that you did not become fully during your cleaning. You should reclean. It has nothing to do with eh cleaner, you just did not get it all off.
Thanks for the quick response! How necessary is it to re-clean at this point, I don’t have access to the pressure washer anymore. Would it be really bad if I were to just stain it at the point (I understand it might not be perfect)? I have attached done before and after pictures just for reference.
Picture after cleaning again (taken about an hour after re-cleaning) would it be really bad to go ahead and stain at this point once the deck dries out?
Sorry could not attach the correct picture after re-cleaning to previous message…it is attached to this message, so I will just repeat the question here for clarity: would it be really bad to go ahead and stain at this point once the deck dries out?
You can go ahead and stain. It should be fine.
Great! I am considering the TWP 1500 in Pecan. Would you suggest going with a water based stain instead? Deck gets a fair amount of shade as there is an overhang of trees nearby, and I did have to remove some mold from the side next to the trees. Looking for something that is easy to apply and does all against mold. Half the deck will be under a covered porch.
The TWP 1520 Pecan will work just fine for what you want to do.
Thank you!
Hi,
It rained today for the first time after I had done my prep for staining. Pictures attached show cleaned deck after and before rain, and deck (dry) before cleaning.
This raises several questions:
1. Why all the black spots when wet? Could these be a result of tannins (leached into the wood from unswept leaves left on the deck) rising to the surface from the rain, that were not noticeable prior to cleaning? Something else?
2.. Is this the appearance I can expect after staining?
3. Do I need to do further cleaning/prep prior to staining to remedy this? Prep so far has consisted of applying a bleach based solution, then rinsing with pressure washer, applying Defy wood cleaner, then rinsing that with garden hose.
Thanks again for your guidance
You need to use a wood brighener after the cleaning. Do this to all wood.
Hi, I plan to brighten as you suggested once the rainy weather passes. Can I brighten as soon as the rain stops or do I need to give the deck a couple of days to dry first? Also do I need to repeat the entire cleaning process again before brightening, or can I just only brighten at this point since I cleaned about 8-9 days ago?
Brighten right away is okay.
Good Morning
I posted this yesterday but don’t see it, maybe it did not save. So posting again.
It rained yesterday for the first time after prepping the deck for staining. Prep consisted of applying bleach solution, rinsing that with pressure washer cleaning, then applying Defy wood cleaner and rinsing that with garden hose. Deck has never been stained before (4 years old PT pine). Pictures attached show dry deck before cleaning, dry deck after cleaning, and the cleaned deck wet from rain.
Now to my questions:
1. Why all the dark stains on the deck?
2. Is this kinda how the deck would look after applying a stain in this tone?
3. Is this normal?
4. If not, what can be done about it?
(We did have unswept leaves on the deck prior to cleaning from last fall, not sure if that matters or not in terms of tannins leaching into the wood)
Thank you for your input.
We replied to you already.
You need to use a wood brighener after the cleaning. Do this to all wood.
Thank you 🙂 for some reason I could not see my prior post and figured I did not save it after composing, hence the duplicate post. I see both posts now.
Given that stripper and brightener need to be kept wet by repeated applications during the time period, is it ok to walk on the deck to get to all the areas, or do you recommend instead applying stripper/brightener in sections? Thanks!
You can walk on it.
I have a 13 year old, 3 level cedar deck in need of a lot of help. FIRST PHOTO from the left.
Answers to your questions above:
1. Strip and brighten and then sand.
2. Only way to remove is to power sand.
3. Okay.
4. TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark
5. You may want to consider a two-toned deck as you may not get the paint off the rails:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Thank you. Sorry for the questions. Just to be clear, the horizontal deck surfaces that have been power washed need to to be stripped 1st, brightened and then sanded as the last step before staining? I had intended to purchase the Restore A Deck stripper & brightener. Is there a problem using those products if I stain with the TWP? Also, out of curiosity, why did you recommend the TWP verses using the Restore a Deck stain? Would 1 be better than the other at holding up to severe seasonal climate changes? I like the idea of the water-based stain for some reason. Most of the rails are pretty much in need of replacing…oy! So we’re going to do that next summer… should I just wait and do the whole thing at once next summer and leave the bare wood exposed over the winter or am I ok doing the staining now & rails & lower deck later??? Thanks so much.
-Yes.
-No issues.
-RAD stain would work just as well.
-They would last about the same.
-Easier to do it all at once.
Hi, I found your after watching a Youtube review of Behr Deckover which I was considering for my deck. I live in Pittsburgh, PA and the current deck urgently needs restored. I will answer your questions below and hope to hear from you soon. Thank you
The current stain is peeling and some of the boards will need to be replaced. Otherwise the boards are worn but seem sound. I was going to clean, sand & powerwash everything and try and remove the current stain and change the color but am looking for some advice.
Thank you
The only way to remove this is to power sand. Strippers and pressure washing will not remove it.
Backyard deck and a front porch (and also a fence). We live in Toronto.
The back deck is elevated and was at least 10 years old (predates our time here). The deck boards and railings were replaced in May 2021 and are cedar, and have not been treated. The posts and joists and stair stringer were painted (I think?) green and are quite faded. The wooden wall/divider on the deck was stained but we’re not sure what was used to treat it. Pictures attached. We’ve also added (May 2021) a new lower deck from our walkout. This also has not been treated. This abuts a fence that looks like it was at one point stained. There were significant mold and mildew issues, and rotting of deck boards led us to replace them all earlier this spring. I’ve treated the fence and the posts and joists with mold/mildew remover and have tried pressure washing (though perhaps too little pressure as was concerned with causing even more damage).
The front porch also predates us and has never been treated. It had/has significant mold and mildew issues. Last weekend I treated with a mold remover and then pressure washed (also could have gone harder with the washer). The results are in the pictures attached (second two pictures). The three stairs off the front porch show the most significant mold now (two of the boards were replaced last year (not treated) and so those don’t look as bad). Haven’t sanded.
We’d like to restore and stain the front porch in a transparent or semi-transparent stain. anything to get it looking bright.
For the back deck, we’d like to treat and stain the new decks – ideally clear – and then do whatever we can to restore the fence and the dividing wall, and then strip the remaining green off the posts and stairs or do whatever we can to get it brown.
Scratching my head because it looks like I’ve got 3 or 4 completely different jobs here so any advice on best prep options would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Strip and brighten all wood. Stain all wood with a semi-transparent color. Look at TWP or Armstrong Clark. Do not use clear as that will not provide UV protection from graying.
Thank you very much. To be clear should I even strip and brighten the new wood?
You can water it down or reduce the strength of the stripper for the newer wood. 1 part stripper to 3 parts water.
4 year old elevated deck (10’x10′), never treated. No current coating. Deck is in Iowa with full afternoon / sun exposure (west side of house). Very cold winters with snow.
Had severe algae and greying…minor algae in some areas. I cleaned once with “Mold Armor EZ Deck Wash”, a week later with a DIY oxy-clean and scrub brush and again another week later with VALSPAR All in One clean. Power washed myself (probably too hard). I intend to sand with 40-60 grit. Still have to clean outside of vertical railings. Looking for best prep options to apply a semi-transparent. Thank you in advance.
It is prepped well enough to stain. Use Restore A Deck Stains or Armstong Clark Stains.
Thank You. Follow up: If I choose oil based (like TWP) will I have an issue in many years from now if I want to go water based?
Whenever you switch brands of stain you will need to remove the current stain. TWP is very easy to remove with a stain stripper and then a brightener.
Live in Vancouver BC Canada -just finish building a new 400 square foot cedar deck .It’s been weather for 3 months now but with working Mon-Fri and with the weekends coming up that I won’t be able to attend staining my deck until mid October ….traditionally by mid October and November can be constant rainy days so I don’t see a chance to complete to stain the deck.Do I leave it until next spring or should I put on just a sealer to get me by until next spring.FYI I bought Restore semi transparent stain .Please advise
Do the prep and stain in the Spring, you will be okay.
I have an old deck with a couple different elements: old deck, without any stain remaining (it’s probably been many many years since a stain was applied), old deck with a hot tub covering it, so stain is still in good shape, and new deck rails that I just replaced. I tried Cabot Wood Stripper and and then Cabot Wood Brightener (the two brighter spots in the second picture), but pouring water over that section shows that the stain is still there. I’m not really sure how to proceed with some combination of cleaning, stripping, neutralizing, and sanding. Also, is it possible to have a semi-transparent stain cover these differences enough? Thank you!
Try the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit for all wood to give it one more prep. Make sure to use a pressure washer when stripping. I assume the hot tub will go back over the current dark area where it was prior? If so move it back to hide the discoloration there and then go ahead and stain. You have a hardwood deck so use a hardwood stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Ok thank you! Yes, we’ll put the hot tub back. Would you recommend applying the Restore A Deck stripper on the entire deck, or just the area where hot tub was and stain remains? If it’s best to apply just to the one area, would I still use brightener on the entire deck? Looks like the recommended hardwood stain comes in Amber and Mahogany. Could either color work, or would you recommend the darker Mahogany option for this deck?
I also had no idea the deck was hardwood! Is it fair to assume the vertical parts of the deck are not hardwood? After reading the article on two toned decks, I was thinking of using a solid water based stain on that part. And then sounds like using a hardwood stain on the horizontal part. Would that work well, or would you recommend an alternative approach?
Thank you very much for your help!
Strip and brighten all wood. Either color should work. Not sure if verticals are hardwood but the floor is. You can do two-toned or the same stain for all.
Sounds good, thank you!
Oh actually, one last question–can I use a paint sprayer for the water based Restore A Deck semi-transparent and/or solid stain? If not, how would you otherwise recommend staining the latices? Thanks!
You can use an airless sprayer but make sure to back brush andy drips or runs.
Ah ok but not a air sprayer then? Any recommendations on the next best option for latice? (I have an air sprayer only). Thanks!
Sprays are either airless or pump sprayers. No such thing as an “air” sprayer.
oh haha ok, i must be confused. Thank you for your help with all this!
I tried spraying Restore A Deck’s solid stain with this paint sprayer and it didn’t go so well. Intermittent spray and what did come out was very textured. Same results with the 1.8mm and 3mm opening. Is that expected, or is there another type of sprayer better suited to the job?
Also, what would be the next best alternative for applying solid stain to a latice? Thanks!
That is an HVLP sprayer and that will not work with paint or solid stains. You need a commercial airless paint sprayer with a solid stain.
I rented one and that definitely worked better, thank you. Also, the Restore a Deck products worked a lot better than what I was using before, so thank you for that suggestion as well.
Glad to help. Post some pics when done.
Will do! I painted some of the rails with the Restore a Deck solid white stain. In the mornings, which have been damp, I’ve been seeing brown puddles one the rails (see pic). The rails are new redwood that I applied the solid stain to. Any idea what is happening here?
Tannin bleed from inside the wood. Let it dry for a week to so and then apply one more coat.
Got it! I had new redwood that sat about a month before applying the stain. Is the month, instead of the recommended 3-6 months, the cause of this, or does this just happen with redwood?
It just randomly happens. No rhyme or reason.
Looking much better! Thank you for the help, made a huge difference! Out of curiosity, any idea why the deck in the foreground ended up so much darker than the part farther back? I tried to do the same thing for all of it, as much as I could.
Not sure but it will probably even out over time.
Thanks for all the great info on your site! I moved into a home last fall that has a large ipe deck with old stain. The previous owner said she used a Penofin-like stain (she couldn’t remember if it was exactly Penofin or not) about 5-7 years ago. She said the same product was used on the railings as the deck. The deck is partially covered to varying degrees, it’s weathered very differently. My contractor has performed some sanding tests and has done an initial pressure wash (no stripper, cleaner, or brightener used yet). We’ll probably re-stain with Armstrong Clark hardwood stain in amber (we’ve tested the amber and black walnut on sections sanded to bare wood, and we’re currently waiting for those test spots to cure). The attached photos show the differing amounts of weathering. Everything has received the initial pressure wash. The photo of the weathered railing corner is in a sun/weather-exposed area, while the other railing photos don’t get much sun/weather. The img_4117 photo shows the bottom two boards sanded down about a week ago, while the other boards above them have only been pressure washed (all of those boards are very exposed to sun/weather). Img_4116 also shows the boards on the step down sanded vs the pressure washed boards ago (the pressure washing didn’t do much in that area). The img_4121 and img_4122 photos (attached in a follow-up post, along with the railing photos) are examples of what appears to be the least weathered areas of the original deck stain. It’s much darker/redder than the railings, but the previous owners swears it was the same product. (Maybe it’s just a difference of sanding or lumber, though it’s all ipe.) Do I need to sand to bare wood to properly remove the unknown previous stain before applying the new Armstrong Clark stain, or should I use the RAD stripper? If I have to sand, should I apply the RAD cleaner and brightener after sanding (along with a light pressure wash)? If a stripper can work to avoid all the effort of sanding, should I use the non-gel additive with it? Any other tips for refinishing an ipe deck in this condition with a previous unknown oil-based stain? Thanks for the help! Here are the answers to the questions: > New Wood or Older Wood? Older (current stain is 5-7 years old) > Does the Deck have a Current Coating? The previous owner doesn’t know what exactly the previous stain was but remembers it as as Penofin or similar. She swears the railings are the same product, and it’s held up there because those surfaces are convex (and maybe the application was thicker). > Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching. We’re moving away from the unknown Penofin-like stain, likely to Armstrong Clark > Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown, though apparently it was Penofin or similar. > What… Read more »
Strip and brighten all with the RAD Stripper and both additives using a pressure washer. You should not have to sand. One coat of the AC hardwood stain.
Excellent. Thanks!
I’ve attached the additional images I couldn’t post earlier. The first three are of the deck railing (supposedly with the same product as was used on the deck), and the fourth is of an area of the deck that didn’t get much sun/weather. Is stripping sufficient for those areas as well, or will the old stain need to be sanded where it’s still mostly intact?
You will have to sand that as it is over-applied and the stripping will not get it all off. Strip first, sand where needed, brighten all after.
Got it. Thanks so much!
My deck was built with brown ptw and is a year old and has never been washed or sealed. I am adding a covered porch being built with brown ptw. How do I prep for seal and semi-transparent stain when I will have old and new wood?
Clean and brighten all wood and then use a semi-transparent stain.
How long should I wait to stain the new wood. Doesn’t it have to weather first?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I used to have really good luck with staining my deck with Olympic stain. My deck was painted with cabot austrailian deck stain about 5 years ago. The deck was built in 1986, pressure treated. The stain is peeling in spots, down to bare wood some of it has a shiny sheen to it, It is a mess. I really don’t want to sand or replace it. Is it possible to spot stain it with Olympic stain?
Jayne
Post pictures for prep help.
I am going to try to post the photos again. The photos were not downloading.
You cannot spot fix this. You will have to remove all by power sanding down to the bare wood. Clean and brighten the wood for final prep.
My deck is 3-4 years old, installed by the builder. The pained the deck with Sherwin Williams SuperDeck solid deck stain. I HATE the solid stain!! I am trying to figure out the best option, that isn’t replacing the whole (which has been a thought) The paint peels, mildews and always looks dirty.
To remove you will need to power sand it all off or replace the wood. It cannot be stripped.
If I can’t remove it all, should I sand down and then paint again with sherwin williams or is there another option?
You will need to use another solid stain then: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I have a 14 year old pressure treated pine deck that has previously been stained with t w p 100 series in dark oak. About six weeks ago I cleaned and brightened the deck preparing to restain. Something came up and I could not get the deck stained. There has not been an opportunity since until possibly this week. Do I need to use cleaner and brightener again or can I just sweep and rinse the deck?
Thank you!
Clean and brighen again.
We had a new deck built three years ago with pine for the deck and cedar for the railings. Two years ago we stained it for the first time using Superdeck (pre-Sherwin Williams) oil-based semi-transparent in dark walnut. Now it’s time to stain again and we want to use a new product. Much of the main deck has faded in places. We have lot of squirrels and they have scratched the railings (we plan to sand those areas). The stain has held up pretty well on in the vertical cedar posts, but we do have some mildew. We have lots of trees, acorns, leaves in fall, snow in winter. After reading many of your articles, I’m leaning toward the Restore a Deck system and their dark walnut semi-transparent stain. For prep, do we need to clean and strip, or can we just strip? What do suggest for boosters, additives, brightener? Any other tips for us? Thanks!
Strip and brighen for prep is the correct way. Very easy in this scenario. No need for boosters or additives.
Thank you so much!
I have a two year old cedar deck that looked great, up until time the dog put claw gauges into it. I used a hand sander to sand the scratched areas down, which left a combination of bare wood and stained areas, making for a patchy mess. I tried using deck stripper to remove the remaining stain, but the stain didn’t come off well. I used a stiff brush on the boards after applying the stripper and allowing it to work, but perhaps a power washer would have been the better way to go.
I’m wondering what to do next to restore this deck. Should I rent a sander and sand the existing stain off so that I can re-stain the whole deck? The stain that was used when the deck was built was a Cabot full oil stain, which is no longer allowed to be sold in my area.
I’m attaching photos of what the deck looked like after the hand sander, and what it looks like now after using the stripper. It rained last night, hence the wetness.
If I do rent a sander, would you advise using the brightener first? The stripper really darkened the wood, especially on the top section.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives and pressure washing to remove. Brightener after.
Do I need to use a brightener after sanding my deck. I am happy with the look of my cedar deck. Even if I don’t need to use a brightener, do I need to power wash before sanding? Thanks!
Using a cleaner and a brightener after sanding will open up the pores of the wood so the stain soaks in better.
We would use a deck cleaner while pressure washing to remove all of the gray oxidation. Let dry and then sand if needed. Brightener would go on last.
Most of the wood is just gray oxidation and the only thing that looks painted are the posts.
Thank you for your help!
I’ve attached additional pictures, since I can only attach 4 at a time. After seeing more pictures of the deck, does it change any of your advice?
If you still recommend pressure washing, would the pressure washing remove the paint off the posts or do you think I should just sand those?
In regards to pressure washing, what’s the max pressure you recommend.
Thank you again for all of your help.
-Ben
Advice is the same as you have a very minor amount of deck stain on the vertical and floor but that will come off with the Deck Cleaner and Wood Brightener. Use Restore A Deck Kits. Pressure washing will not remove the solid stain paint. You will need to sand that after. Pressure wash between 1500-200 psi.
Thank you!
Is there any place locally I’d be able to get the Restore A Deck Kit here in the St. Louis, MO area? If not, is there a brand or product you’d recommend that I’d be able to get locally from a hardware store that is comparable?
In the regards to the pressure washing psi, I’m assuming you meant to type 1500-2000 psi?
You all have been a huge help. Thank you!
We do not live in St Loius so not sure what or if anything is decent that is sold locally.
Here are additional pictures.
And the last pictures of the products that were left behind by the previous owner.
Thank you again!
-Ben
Can you use a power washer to strip semi solid stained posts or do I need to use a sander? Does a power washer really damage wood if the PSI is low? I am switching brands, going with Armstrong.
Hard to say without seeing pictures but you may need to sand to get it all off.
New Wood or Older Wood? Older
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Not sure
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Sher win Williams Deckscapes solid
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Not sure
Mold or Mildew Issues? A little bit not bad
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Hasn’t been maintained
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
The deck stain is failing, in some parts of the deck more than others. In some places the stain is flaking off like a paint more than a stain. I know this is a bad product. However we do have quite a bit more of it that the previous owners left for us. I’d like some advice on how to proceed on two alternative approaches:
1. If we decide to reapply this stain because we have plenty of it in the garage, what would be the best prep?
2. If we decide to go with a new, higher quality stain such as those recommended on this site, what would be the best prep?
We have a toddler and also several pets and our preference is not to use dangerous chemicals if possible.
Thank you very much for your advice!
Post some pictures for proper help. More than likley you will have to sand it off to fix correctly and prevent it from happening again.
Sorry tried to post pictures with original post but they didn’t come through. Here are some pics
One more try
Picture sizes have to be smaller than 4 MB per photo to upload.
Ok here you go!
Strip abd brigtehn for prep. It will remove the dirt, mildew, and peeling stain. You can then cover the intact non-peeling stain with a new solid stain of your choice.
More pix.
Pix for previous post
New Wood or Older Wood? 15yrs+
Does the deck have a current coating? Yes
Are you switching brands of deck stain or applying a maintenance coat of the same brand and color? Yes. Maintenance coat of current brand last applied in 2017.
Deck stain brand previously used? Sikkens – Cetol DEK Finish, Natural color
What is the current deck stain type? I think it is oil-based, had to use mineral spirits for clean up. Transparent, satin finish.
Mold or mildew issues? Deck is in HEAVY shade. It has some mildew and algae.
Reason for previous stain failure? The last coat of stain is peeling. It did not get rained on during last application, but there was a heavy dew several hours (5+hrs) after application. Not sure why it peels. I had been very happy with Sikkens until last couple of applications (had been using it for almost 30yrs, guests commented that my deck looked like furniture) – heard they changed their formula since the initial application 13+yrs ago.
Because of recent dissatisfaction, I have been looking for something that is easier to apply with better performance that the most recent applications. I have been considering the TWP100 series of stains in the Redwood color. Is this a good choice? What would you suggest for deck preparation?
Thank you!
Your biggest issue will be to remove the Sikkens DEH Cetol and that cannot be stripped. You will have to power sand to remove the DEK version as it goes on the wood like a varnish. Once you sand it all off, the TWP stains would be a great choice.
I am looking at doing a solid stain with white banisters and a different color on the floor. First picture was my inspiration photo and the second two are current condition Will that be too much with the current deck condition? I have never painted a deck before so this will be a first, so the two colors might be too much too? Am I being too ambitious… Just looking for a little advice! ha
You will probably not remove the current stain fully but that is okay when going over it with a solid stain. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kit for the prep. This will remove the dirt, grime, and loose stain. Cover the rest with the Restore A Deck Solid stain in the white and gray colors:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
And I am looking to do a solid satin
See the reply above.
I have a 4 year old deck that gets full sun in Minnesota. Just completed sanding off Behr stain that peeled and looked terrible after six months. Given our weather changes and the full sun, what would be your recommendation for a new stain to use? Also, do I need to use a deck stripper or brightener before staining? Thanks.
Please post some pictures for the prep help.
Here’s some photos. Just started raining here.
I think your sanding looks pretty good. Clean and brighen for final prep and to open up the pores some. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hi! Awesome info and I couldn’t resist asking for help. This is cedar decking. I bought Behr solid for railings and pergola. Transparent water based Cedar for floor. Some wood needs replacing. Maybe even stairs I think. What do you recommend? We had it cleaned 3 days ago. There was some furring and I feel like this is almost impossible to accomplish. Please share some advice for floor, railings, pergola and stairs. Thank you so very much. Many blessings to you and yours!🙂
Behr is a very poor stain. Return it unless you want o deal with peeling and a difficult removal.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
I have 2 sets of photos. One we painted with a tinted sealant. It is pealing and cracking. The seond set has had nothing done to it. It’s just weathered by the sun and rain. Looking for something for both surfaces that will withstand the 100+ degree temperatures in the summer. No shade or building to cover any of this. It’s completely out in the sun. Thank you.
The tinted pics are a solid stain and cannot be fully stripped. Strip off what you can and then cover with a new solid stain. Another option is to power sand it all off so you can use a penetrating semi-transparent stain.
The gray wood just needs a cleaner and then a brighener for prep.
I have 2 sets of photos. One is just weathered from the sun and rain. The second set we painted with a tinted sealant but it is already pealing. I want something that will maintain the health and longevity of the wood. It needs to be able to stand the heat of 100+ summers.
Just bought an older home with a cedar deck that is in rough condition. We want to replace a few of the boards but are hoping the majority of it can be restored. I’m not sure if it was ever stained. Someone told me pressure washing may be too harsh & do damage to this old deck. What cleanser would you recommend? Does it need to be stripped? Do rough surfaces need to be filled in with wood filler? Does it need to be sanded? What products would you recommend for cleaning, brightening? staining? sealing? There is one place, under an overhang, where it looks as if it had been stained at some point. Does the whole deck need stripping or just that one small area??
Most of our deck looks as if it has never been stained except for a 2’x2′ space under an overhang. Does the entire deck need to be stripped, brightened & the stained with a semi transparent or solid stain? I would love it if we could see the wood grain when finished.
New Wood or Older Wood? *Both
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? *Some boards do, others were replaced
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? *Not sure what the old one was (just bought house)
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? *unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?* Appears to be solid but that’s all I can tell
Mold or Mildew Issues? *Many of the boards were rotted and needed to be replaced
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? *Unsure if wrong stain was used before or maintenance wasn’t kept up.
We installed an ipe deck in 2013 and used a water-based penetrating finish from TimberPro UV. It did not last long and we are presently painting our home and included re-finishing the deck as part of the bid. They are planning on sanding it and suggested Sikkens oil finish. I have not seen good reviews for this product and landed on TWP100 as a preferred finish. I just completed pressure washing the deck and it is rough enough that sanding would be beneficial. I am ordering TWP now and wondering if there is added benefit to using your stripper/brightener.
Do you have any pictures that you can show to help with the prep?
I uploaded them when I sent the message. I will attempt to do so again.
I selected four pics to upload. Am I limited to one at a time?
I reduced the photo size and am trying again.
No need to strip this.
We used Sikkens oil based stain on our brand new deck, now called PPG prolux. It was AWFUL and now we are cleaning, stripping and restaining. Very big job and we are very disappointed
Then I’m glad I decided against using Sikkens. Thanks for your response.
We purchased our 15 year old home 2 years ago and are just now getting to the deck. I was told that there was some kind of tinted spray applied to the deck a few years back, but aside from the mildew, the wood looks pretty bare to my amateur eye. I already powerwashed it (water only) and am wondering how long this wood will last and whether it would be worth investing in semi-trans stain or going with the free solid stain we were given. From the reviews I’ve seen, semi-trans is the best long-term option, but I’d also like an expert’s opinion on whether we’d be needing to replace some of these boards soon anyway? I didn’t want to go much harder on the power washing for fear of tearing of wood. Any help wood be appreciated.
Use a deck cleaner and a brightener like the Restore A Deck kits for prep. Stain with a semi-transparent or even a semi-solid. Just make sure they are penetrating stains. We would not use the solid stain.