This post was updated on April 27, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2026
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain?
Proper deck preparation is the most important step when it comes to staining exterior wood. From my experience restoring decks since 1993, most stain failures are caused by poor prep—not the stain itself.
If the wood is not cleaned, stripped (if needed), and brightened correctly, the stain will not penetrate properly and will fail much sooner than it should.
This guide will help you determine whether your deck needs to be cleaned, stripped, or sanded—and how to prep it correctly before staining.
Proper prep is critical, but choosing the best deck stain afterward is what determines long-term performance.
Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
🔹 Step 1: Determine Your Deck Condition
Before starting, you need to identify your deck’s current condition. This will determine the proper prep method.
Common Deck Conditions:
- New Wood – Needs weathering and light prep
- Grayed or weathered wood – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Previously stained wood (good condition) – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Failing or peeling stain – Requires stripping or sanding
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Step 2: Cleaning the Deck
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
🔹 How To Deck Cleaning Tips
- Use a quality wood deck cleaner
- Apply evenly and allow proper dwell time
- Pressure wash for heavily soiled areas
- Rinse thoroughly
Cleaning alone is not enough—you must follow with a brightener.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
👉 Deck Cleaning Tips
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 3: Brightening the Wood
Brightening is a critical step that many homeowners skip.
- Restores natural wood color
- Neutralizes the wood after cleaning
- Opens the pores for better stain penetration
- Helps ensure even stain color
Skipping this step can lead to blotchy or uneven results.
👉 Deck Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
🔹 Step 4: Stripping the Deck (When Needed)
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a varnish-like shine cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure-washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
🔹 You should strip your deck if:
- Stripping is required when old coatings are preventing proper absorption
- The old stain is peeling or uneven
- The coating is a solid or heavy film
- You are changing stain brands or the type of stain
- Removes old coatings for better penetration
- May require multiple applications
- Must be followed by brightening
👉 How to Strip a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
🔹 Step 5: Sanding (When Necessary)
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
Sanding is sometimes needed, but should not be your first option.
- Use when wood is rough, splintered, or heavily coated
- Helps smooth the surface if it’s very rough
Important: Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration. never sand finer than 60-80 grit.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 6: Dry Time Before Staining
After prep, the wood must dry completely unless using the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
- Allow 24–48 hours depending on weather
- Wood should feel dry to the touch
- Moisture content should be low
Staining damp wood is one of the most common causes of failure.
🔹 Recommended Deck Prep Products
Using the right products at each stage will make a huge difference in your final results.
For Cleaning and Brightening:
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System (top choice for prep)
For Stripping (if needed):
- Restore-A-Deck deck stain strippers (depending on coating type)
For Staining:
- Penetrating oil-based stains (TWP, Armstrong Clark)
- Water-based stains (Restore-A-Deck)
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Common Deck Prep Mistakes
From my experience, these are the most common mistakes:
- Skipping the brightener step
- Not removing old coatings fully
- Over-sanding with too fine a grit
- Not allowing enough dry time
Avoiding these mistakes will significantly improve your results.
🔹 Final Thoughts on Deck Prep
Proper deck prep is the foundation of any successful staining project. No matter how good the stain is, it will not perform correctly without proper preparation.
From my hands-on experience, taking the time to clean, strip (if needed), and brighten your deck correctly will result in a better-looking finish that lasts longer and requires less maintenance.
If you follow these steps, your stain will perform the way it should, and your deck will be much easier to maintain over time.
Pressure Washing Tips for Deck Cleaning or Stripping
Power washing can speed up the deck cleaning process, but it should only be used by those with experience. Improper use can damage the wood and result in costly repairs. If you do choose to use a power washer, follow these guidelines to avoid harming your deck:
-
Always use a deck cleaner or deck stain stripper first. These products do 90% of the cleaning work. The power washer should only be used to rinse off the loosened grime—not as the main cleaning method.
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Treat the power washer like a rinse tool, not a scrub brush. Use it to gently wash away the cleaner or stripper, not to grind dirt off the surface.
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Use a sweeping, pendulum-style motion. Work with the grain of the wood and never pause or reverse direction without lifting the wand. Failing to maintain a smooth motion can leave permanent “stop marks” in the wood.
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Keep pressure between 1200–2000 PSI. Even if you’re using a 3000 PSI machine, distance matters. Washing from 8–12 inches away will reduce the effective pressure to a safer level for wood surfaces.
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Exercise caution. If you’re unsure about your technique or have never used a power washer on wood before, it’s best to hire a professional. Incorrect use can permanently damage your deck.
🔹 Prep by Deck Condition
Not all decks require the same prep process. The key is understanding your deck’s current condition and using the correct method before staining.
From my experience, using the wrong prep method is one of the biggest reasons stains fail early.
🔸 New Wood Decks
New wood cannot be stained right away. It must be properly weathered and prepped to allow the stain to absorb.
- Let wood weather for 3–6 months
- Clean and brighten before staining
- Do not sand too smooth, as this can reduce absorption
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔸 Grayed or Weathered Wood
If your deck has turned gray from sun exposure, it needs to be cleaned and brightened.
- Use a wood cleaner to remove dirt and oxidation
- Follow with a brightener to restore color
- This will help open the wood pores for stain absorption
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔸 Previously Stained Deck (Good Condition)
If your deck has an existing stain that is still in good shape, you can usually clean and recoat.
- Clean and brighten the wood
- Make sure the existing stain is of stain brand and color
- Apply a maintenance coat before full wear
This is the easiest scenario and requires the least amount of prep.
🔸 Peeling or Failing Stain
If your deck has peeling, flaking, or uneven stain, it must be stripped before applying a new coat.
- Use a deck stripper to remove old coatings
- May require multiple applications
- Always follow with a brightener after stripping
Skipping this step will lead to poor results and uneven staining.
👉 How to Strip a Deck Stain
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔸 Rough or Splintered Wood
If the wood surface is rough or splintered, sanding may be needed.
- Light sanding can smooth the surface
- Do not over-sand, as it can reduce stain penetration
- Clean and brighten after sanding
Sanding should be used only when necessary, not as a default step.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Prep by Deck Condition
If you are unsure which category your deck falls into, start with cleaning and evaluate how the wood responds. If water does not absorb into the surface, additional prep such as stripping may be needed.
✅ Deck Prep FAQs
🔍 Cleaning & Brightening
Do I need to clean my deck before staining?
Yes. Cleaning removes dirt, mildew, and residue so the new stain can properly penetrate the wood.
Do I have to use a wood brightener after cleaning?
Yes. Brightening restores the wood’s pH balance and helps the stain absorb evenly. Skipping this step can lead to blotchy results.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🧱 Stripping vs Cleaning
How do I know if my deck needs to be stripped?
If the old stain is peeling, uneven, or water does not absorb into the wood, stripping is usually required. It is also needed when switching stain brands or types.
Can I just clean and recoat my deck without stripping?
Yes, but only if the existing stain is in good condition and compatible with the new stain. Otherwise, stripping is recommended.
🪵 Sanding
Should I sand my deck before staining?
Only if necessary. Sanding is typically used for rough wood or failed coatings. Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration.
⏳ Drying & Timing
How long should I wait to stain after cleaning the deck?
Wait 24–48 hours, depending on weather conditions, to ensure the wood is fully dry before staining.
What happens if I stain a damp deck?
Staining damp wood can lead to poor penetration, uneven color, and premature failure.
⚠️ Common Mistakes
What is the most common mistake when prepping a deck?
Skipping the brightener step or failing to fully remove old coatings before staining.
🆕 New Deck Prep
Do I need to prep new wood before staining?
Yes. New wood should be properly weathered, cleaned, and brightened before applying stain.
👉 Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🛠 Process & Order
What is the correct order for prepping a deck?
- ✔ Clean (or strip if needed)
- ✔ Brighten
- ✔ Let the wood dry
- ✔ Apply stain
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Deck Prepping
From my experience, proper prep is what determines how long your stain will last. If you take shortcuts here, the stain will fail early no matter how good the product is.
Deck Prepping Product Articles
What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
Hi, can I get some help with my deck? I got all kinds of answers already, and I hope you will make everything clear. I got
1. Old deck.
2. It has some kind of coating but I’m not sure if it’s paint or stain, but it was peeling of badly. I’ll attach a picture of the only paint can I found in the purchased house that matches this color.
3. Any brand or color will work
4. Unknown
5. Unknown
6. No mold issues
I got most of the peeling parts off but taking everything will do a lifetime, I have a week already in this project with all kinds of sanding equipment, besides power washing.
Thank you.
You need a solid stain for this. See this list for best options: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
As for prepping for a solid stain recoat, see here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-col
Thanks for your input. Its a large deck and I have 2 more just like it. so the thought of stripping all of it is overwhelming.
1. Old deck
2. Yes
3.different brand, want same color
4. unknown
5. not sure, but likely water based. not sure if semi transparent or semi solid. I want to use oil based.
6. Yes mold, mildew, no sun on part of deck
7. not sure, it failed in 6 months. I didn’t do it.
I’ve power washed and cleaned with diluted bleach water then rinsed. I am planning on sanding. but don’t think I can get ALL stain removed from seats and banisters. is there a brand to use if most of stain is off?. must I clean after sanding? My paint guy says no, but…?
You need a solid stain for this. See this list for best options: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
As for prepping for a solid stain recoat, see here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thanks SO MUCH. A couple more questions.
1. If I sand down to bare wood on horizontal surface can I use a semi transparent or semi solid for the purpose of easier re-application process in future and less slippery.? then use a solid on vertical wood.
2. After reading the article ‘for prepping for a solid stain recoat’, it does not mention to use ‘brightner’ to adjust PH, yet in another article on prepping a deck it says its important NOT to skip this step. I’m assuming its because of using the solid stain?
I appreicate your knowledge base. And will not use bleach in the future!
1. Yes.
2. Use the brightener.
Hi Scott
Here are answers to the questions.
1. Old wood
2.Yes for current coating
3.Same brand -different color
4.Sherwin Williams
5.Waterborne Semi Solid
6.No mold/mildew
7. Not sure. Nothing done for over 4 years. Maybe not done properly the first time. The elements have taken its toll.
Stain is peeling. Not sure what steps to take.
Pictures?
Hello: I stained our new deck with Australian Timber Oil (Honey Teak color.)(2 years old.) I restrained the deck this last fall as a second coat. I think I put too much stain on. It has a shinny surface and is developing “graying” areas. Can I get a “redo” by stripping the deck to the bare wood and do it over – more carefully?
New wood. Cabo’s Australian Timber Oil. I have liked the Timber Oil product – am willing to switch. Current coat was applied about a year ago, but then I put a second coat on about 6 months ago. No issues with mold or mildew.
The deck is 30 years old, but about 2 years ago we had the deck surface replaced with new wood deck boards. Now we have many of the boards cupping. Is that an issue that needs to be addressed? Only visible problem is that water doesn’t drain away after a rain – it has to evaporate after I sweep or blow most of the water off.
So then, the stain job doesn’t look nice. Can I and should I strip the current stain and re-stain? Should I live with it and be more careful next time the deck needs to be restained? It doesn’t look nice and I want to redo it. Scott in Austin MN PS I have a photo taken with my Iphone, but I can’t figure out how to attach it to this message. I got it saved to this desktop computer, clicking on the paperclip/attachment icon opens where the photo is saved in the computer, but it doesn’t attach to this email. Thanks for you help. Nice Website! End.
Strip it all down is your best option to fix this. Cupping is not an issue.
Hey Scott – awesome how involved you are on this site… We have Ipe railings and a bar top on our deck, and after several years of cleaning/applying Ipe Oil, we’re looking to switch brands. (I know it has to be maintained once a year or more, but I’m having to redo the railings 3-4 times a year). From your articles, it seems like Armstrong Clark is the way to go but wanted to get your take on it. Here are the answers to your questions:
New Wood or Older Wood?
Ipe railings + bar top are 5 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Ipe Oil
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Looking to switch to Armstrong Clark or even RAD (our biggest problem is mildew but not sure we can switch to water based without sanding the railings down…? Can we strip them and then use water based?)
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
Ipe Oil
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Oil-based (I *think* Ipe Oil is semi-transparent?)
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Yes
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Not sure. We live in Nashville (humid) and the deck gets a decent amount of sun… quite a bit in the winter.
Would love to know if you recommend just using a cleaner/brightener and then using Armstrong Clark or if we need to strip it first, then cleaner/brightener… if should maybe try the RAD water-based for mildew control…? Thanks ahead of time for your help!
Gavin
Pics attached – I last cleaned and applied Ipe Oil about 4-5 months ago
The RAD stain in Light Walnut will give better results from mildew. You do not have to sand for prep. Strip and brighten to remove the IPE Oil. You strip no matter if using the AC or the RAD Stain.
Awesome, Scott. Thanks so much for the quick reply. So I saw the RAD clean + brighten kit… is there a strip + brighten? And do I need to re-strip every year when I redo or just clean + brighten from then on?
No, you use the Stripper and Brightener kit, not the Cleaner and Brightener kit.
Clean and brighten if using the same stain in the future.
Perfect. Thanks again for your help, Scott!
Sorry, Scott, last thing… just double-checking this is the correct stain? Didn’t see one specifically marked for exotic hardwoods:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Yes, correct.
Brilliant. Thanks again!
Hey Scott – got the RAD stripper/brightener kit and started stripping the wood railing. We just noticed that the stripper is also taking the black paint off our black metallic posts…! How can we strip the wood without damaging our posts/cable rail? And, the deck itself is composite… is it possible the stripper will damage that as well?
It should not harm the composite. Try pre-wetting the spindles first and rinse any stripper over spray right away. If that does not work then you may have to plastic wrap them.
We use it all the time and have never had an issue with removing the paint from spindles.
I think we let it sit on the spindles too long… So, at this point, to avoid that happening any more, we’re sanding all the railings down. (including the one that already got treated with stripper) On that one already-treated rail, once we sand it, do we still need to do brightener before staining? What about the remaining rails that are just getting sanded? Brightener necessary or just go straight from sanding to staining?
Yes, we would brighten all the wood after sanding or stripping.
Cool, thanks. Can the brightener have any adverse affects like the stripper? (i.e. – causing discoloration or paint issues with the posts/composite decking)
It should not but do a small test spot to ensure not an issue.
Sounds good. Thanks, Scott…
Hello Scott. Here are my answers to your questions.
Thank you in advance for your advice. P Hettich
You cannot use another stain until all of this Behr Deckover is removed and the only way to do this, is to power sand/scrape it all off. Stripping and or pressure washing will not remove it. You cannot apply any other stain over the Deckover. If you cannot get it off by sanding or stripping, you may need to replace the wood.
Scott,
Thank you for your prompt reply.
Since that photo was taken, I have spent many, many, many hours sanding and scraping but some of the old stain still remains (about 1/4 of total) in crevices, nail holes, and low areas. I am aware that staining would reveal a contrast between the rougher wood surfaces and the smooth remaining Deckover, but I cannot spend any more time on this project. What are my options? Thank you. PH
Continue to remove all or replace the wood. Sorry but no other options.
Do I need wood cleaner or brightner for a new redwood deck, 3 months old?
Both. Look at Restore A Deck Kits.
Hi Scott,
We recently purchased a house in the pacific northwest that has a wooden deck. We do not know what stain or sealer was previously used or the last application. There was some green mold on part of the deck when we arrived this summer. I used a brush and water with castile soap to remove it. Attached is a current picture of the deck which is about 170 square feet. I would appreciate your advice on what steps to take to clean and seal the deck before the rainy season which is coming soon.
Strip and brighten all wood for prep. Stain after with TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Do you have product suggestions or instructions for the strip and brighten of the wood? We’ve never had wood decks before.
Use this to strip: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
RAD Brightener is last.
Hello,
We are first time home owners living in Alberta, Canada. We were going to:
I can’t tell if sanding is required.
We have never had a deck before and are not sure if this is the correct approach.
Answers:
I am instruction oriented. If you can tell me what to do and what to buy to get it done, I am capable of doing the work.
In Alberta, Canada the mercury can dip to -40C feels like -50C in winters. That is -40F feels like -58F.
You will need to sand or remove all the paint first. Once fully removed, clean and brighten the wood after for final prep.
For a stain, you want a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Try Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series.
FYI, you cannot seal a deck and then stain after or vice versa.
Thanks Scott.
Can I get away with a stripper to remove the paint instead of Sanding?
At this point, are you able to recommend
— a deck cleaner/brightener that is actually sold inside Canada?
— an oil stain which can easily be reapplied after cleaning and power washing 2 or 3 years from now. Again, must be sold inside Canada?
We have booked vacation days to complete the deck starting this weekend and it’s too late to order TWP or AC. I understand the quality will be lower. However, your recommendation is still better than my best educated guess.
Need to just drive to a store and buy something.
-Stripping will not remove a paint, has to be sanded.
-No quality deck stains are sold in Canada or any big box stores in Canada or the US. That’s why most Canadians buy from the states or pick up in the states.
-Canada change their VOC laws about 7-8 years ago and the stains that are sold in Canada now are not quality and most likely not oil based.
I am preparing cedar siding to applying Defy Extreme Wood Stain for Hardwoods. I have tried the stripper and brightener method, and it is a great method. I learned that I cannot count on having enough well water to complete the job, however. Consequently, I have stained the bottom 8 feet or so of my house, and I need to finish the higher clapboards. My current approach is to 1) sand with 80 grit, 2) final sand with 120 grit, 3) wipe properly diluted brightener on with a cloth, 4) wait 20 minutes, and wipe the brightener off with a clean wet cloth, 4) and apply stain after two or more days of dry weather. You can see in the photo where I have sanded above the scaffolding.
My first question is about the proper grit of sand paper, and the second is whether I need to apply brightener to freshly sanded cedar.
Question 1: I think I have read not to sand “too fine” or the sanding dust will clog the pores of the wood. I won’t be power washing to clear the pores, so this might be a concern. Is 120 grit good for the final sanding?
Question 2: Do you recommend that I use brightener on freshly sanded cedar?
1. No finer than 80.
2. Yes.
You should be doing all the prep first and then all the staining after.
Is pressure washing with just water sufficient enough to prep a deck for previously stained wood. It was stained with Behr Deckover.
No.
What do you suggest we use?
You will have to power sand off the Deckover.
We have an older deck. Previously stained in May 2019 with Behr deckover. It is peeling in most areas that are exposed to full weather. The stain has held up well in areas that have an overhang, so stripping there will be tough. Our thought were to brush to remove loose spots, sand the exposed areas. Do we power wash after sanding? But unsure what to do in areas that it has held up great. And even more unsure about what to use to recoat
Pressure wash first. Let dry and sand all peeling areas. Recoat after.
Thank you.
Hi Scott, This deck is 10X22 and was built and stained between 2019 and 2021 when we bought the house. The picture of the stain can is the only thing I found so I assume that this is what they used. As you can tell the covering did not last very long and we are going to redo the stain. I guess I am trying to decide weather a cleaning would be sufficient or should I strip it and then use the brightener. Would prefer the water based stains but want this to look great so I am looking for advice on that. From looking at the wood I am leaning toward a colored stain but would use a semi transparent if you thought it would turn out ok. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Chris
You would have to strip and brighten to remove it fully. Try Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits with both stripper additives. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain or Armstrong Clark stains after.
Hi Scott Paul, any advice on correcting this sticky situation would be greatly appreciated!!!!
please help we have a three year old redwood deck in South Lake Tahoe, CA.
Last year time got away from us before winter and we did not stain the deck again. so when applying stain about a week ago someone thought to leave the puddles on the deck boards and the wood would soak up the extra stain.
Which now I know the wood never will soak up the excess stain. We used an oil based semi-translucent stain. (Preservawood) to fix Weve tried mineral spirts to no avail. And now think we have to sand it all and start over 😕What is the best option to fix the sticky deck…. Oh and this was stained about a week ago now. tacky deck after staining.
Please help
Thank you Alicia
That’s too bad this happened. If the rags and mineral spirits does not remove the excess then you will have to strip/brighten all flooring and start over. It is not possible to spot strip. You can probably get away without stripping the vertical rails.
Thanks for your response 🙂 is sanding an option or not a good idea? Just curious?
Easier to strip than to sand it all off.
I have a porch that is a little over a year old. I didn’t intend to wait this long, but unfortunately, I am just now staining it for the first time. I want to do a semi-transparent stain. I was researching how to prep the wood and found your site. I ordered the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener to use prior to staining. It has been raining almost every day and we haven’t had a forecast for several dry days in a row for me to clean and stain. In the meantime, I began sanding to remove the stamped ink from the wood. After sanding these spots, I noticed a huge difference as it was removing the grayish top layer from the sun. Should I sand the entire thing prior to staining or will the cleaner and brightener remove that graying? I have no prior experience with this kind of thing and want to make sure I get it right because it seems as though the prep may be the most important part of the staining process. Thanks for your time and I appreciate this service. Your site has been a very helpful tool!
Spot sanding can lead to uneven stain application. Best to sand all evenly, wait a month and then cleaner and brighten for final prep.
Well that will probably work out great since it may be a month before we have enough days without rain for me to stain it. Thank you so much!
Hi Scott! I have an unstained cedar deck that is 1 year old. I know I should use a wood cleaner but do I still need to power wash it? Also what’s the order? Power wash and then wood cleaner? Thanks!
Pressure washing after applying the cleaner is the best and easiest way.
13-year old redwood deck, previously coated multiple times with Behr Transparent Weather Proofing All-In-One Finish/Wood Coating. The coating is peeling/worn where exposed to sun, rain, and foot traffic. Would like to remove coating and replace with something that showcases the redwood grain and color while protecting the wood. Suggestions would be appreciated.
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off. Brightener is last. Stain with TWP stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
What a great service Scott! I have a deck in sorry shape! We used a deck cleaner and scrubbed it with a brush then restained it a year or two ago but it didn’t last and it looks bad now. Now I have a power washer.
1. Old (20+ years?)
2. Mostly worn away
3. I can do whatever is needed to salvage it
4. Olympic Maximum stain & sealant semi transparent
5. The back says Acrylic/oil formula
6. Yes
7. Current condition/age of wood, improperly prepped last time(?)
8. Attached
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest. Brighten is last. Stain with Restore A Deck or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thanks Scott! I want to dive into item number five a little bit deeper. Given the condition, do you think I should tend toward a particular stain type to be truly happy with the results? I live in Iowa where we get all seasons.
A penetrating oil-based stain will work better than the water based acrylic hybrid you used last time. TWP or AC stains are both penetrating oil based.
I appreciate the detailed answer. Focusing more on prep (necessarily), and keeping intensive stripping and cleaning products in mind (RAD for instance), how much realistic good can I expect this product to do in restoring and revitalizing the very neglected, UV damaged portions? Clarifying and setting up expectations, should I anticipate still needing to sand extensively to get down to good wood color or will the chemical combination stripping and brightening do much of the heavy lifting for me based on what you’ve seen or is that an unreasonable expectation of the product given the age and condition of the surface?
In your case stripping will remove a decent amount but not all so sanding will be needed as well. It is your “thick” areas that will not come fully off when stripping as it looks like a solid stain. Example would be the top left in 2nd pic.
Scott, the area in question was previously under some furniture so it was not subject to the sun. The Olympic stain that I mentioned is a semi transparent and the only thing we used last time. My understanding is that the RAD stripping and brightening procedure (especially with the enhancement products) should be effective with gray surface area?
Scott, I sanded a few boards over the weekend. We get through the gray color and semi transparent stain easily enough with a belt sander. However, areas in between the boards and in cracks are trickier to reach. I’m thinking the chemical process will eliminate much of the manual sanding on the top of the boards for the gray and old stain and help with reaching in cracks and in between boards. Is this a reasonable expectation of the RAD product?
Yes, that is correct.
Thank you for all of your helpful posts. Our house was built in 2017/2018, and I have no idea what products were used on the exterior wood surfaces – just that they look awful. I am posting pictures of the front deck/steps and also the front door and garage door in case you can offer advice on those, too. The deck is peeling and has mildew, and the doors, well…just shoddy work. Thank you for your help!
You have a solid stain so you will need a solid stain again. See here for prep tips.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Then apply a new solid stain.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
ac2 pressure treated pine from menards.
new wood, installed today
no
planning to use twp 100 oil based
none used
planning to use twp 100 oil based semi-transparent
no
none yet..
I will have to wait 3-4 months for it to weather so maybe October? Or would it be best to wait for summer next year to stain?
I will need to prep and clean after weather period and then apply twp stain?
thank you for your input and sorry i am new to this if I don’t make a whole lot of sense.
thank you again for helping me and the rest of us, much appreciated!
It is 4-12 months with TWP and then clean and brighten for prep. They suggest their Gemini Restore Kit for prep.
Thank you for being so responsive to these comments, I rarely post to these myself but as a first time homeowner I am in unchartered DIY territory.
Thank you again in advance for the guidance! I’m hoping to avoid using a stripper if I can because there’s a lot of landscaping around that I want to keep healthy, and I considered renting a sander. In either case I’m not sure if I’d need to do the whole deck or just the patch where the stain seems to not be coming up from the wood cleaner.
Don’t use the Behr, it is one of the worst deck stains out there. See review and comments from consumers: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
You have to strip and or sand this to remove it. Easiest is to strip off as much as possible using the RAD Stripper: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
let dwell for 1 hour and then pressure wash off. If needed sand the stain that cannot be stripped and then apply the RAD Brightener last.
You can sand it all off but it will be much harder to do if you do not strip more.
Thank you! What stain brand do you recommend? Is it an issue that I’ve used Behr wood cleaner and then switch to a different brand for the stain?
You have to strip/sand anyhow so it does not matter what cleaner you used. See the top stains here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you! My first pass with the stripper worked wonders. I think I need to do some spot work and then of course the railings. Any tips/tools to use to make the railing cleaning an easier task?
Once I’m finished, I’m now thinking I will purchase Restore a Deck semi-transparent stain. Since I’m trying to “start fresh,” should I plan to put down two coats of RAD or just one will do? I have about 500sqft to cover, and I’m thinking I’ll try to over-purchase a bit since it seems like it will last three years unopened and I assume I will need to put a new coat down in the next three years.
Also thinking towards the future, will I need to strip the stain again if I stick with the same manufacturer and tone? Or just clean/brighten and then reapply the stain?
Looking good so far. No tips are needed for railings, just continue with your stripping.
The RAD Stain is a very good and you can clean and recoat as needed. 5 gallons should cover two coats when applied wet on wet.
Hi Scott, love this website and have found it super helpful! I am in northern NJ, and have a porch/deck that was built in 1967 and is original to the house as far as I know. I’ve heard conflicting reports of the deck wood being redwood or douglas fir. It has benefitted over the years from being covered by the extended roof of the house, as well as shade from trees. I’ve owned the home for 3 years, and the previous owner (since 1972) told me that he had used McCloskey Man o War marine spar varnish on it, touching up areas as needed (mostly frequently on the edges where some sunlight and precipitation do reach the porch. Since I’ve moved in, I have not yet touched it up and at this point I’m committed to having the deck refinished. My plan is to have my contractor do the following, and I’ve added questions where noted:
Can you let me know if this process sounds reasonable, and also whether or not the cleaner and brightener should be used after sanding? Very much appreciated!
Best,
Tim
The steps are correct and you did need the brightener after sanding.
What are you doing with rails? You cannot strip off varnish and sanding while be very hard to remove on the rails.
Thanks very much! Going to keep the marine varnish on the top rail as it’s thicker and in good shape there, and the lower parts of the railing appear to be painted so I’ll have those painted too, with a low luster paint.
I will skip the cleaner and get the brightener, thanks again!
Hi Scott, following up on the lower portions of the rail, including the spindles and 2×4’s etc. I contacted the previous owner and also found the stain previously used. It is Cabot Solid Color Acrylic Siding Stain, 0806 Neutral Base. It was powerwashed earlier this week. Is any additional prep needed before re-staining, and do you recommend using the same stain? I saw your review of the deck version of this stain which is unfavorable. Thanks very much, -Tim
Actually the owner did not use the Cabot mentioned in my recent comment; that was used for shed siding. The owner says he recalls using a preservative/stain and didn’t recommend using a paint since it would be too hard to maintain, so that’s promising at least.
Peeling is fairly minimal on the lower rail/spindle components, so I’m hoping I can get away with not stripping. Fingers crossed, let me know your thoughts. Thanks Scott!
[I tried editing the above comment but can’t seem to do that, sorry for the multiple posts!]
You still have to strip and brighten the lower railings, it should be easy.
Hi Scott, we wound up sanding the lower railing components and most of the solid stain was removed by that. I have RAD solid stain (espresso) on the way for the railings. The deck has also been sanded and the redwood looks great. There is also wood paneling on the exterior wall on the porch which has been sanded – it is a lighter tone than the flooring. Should any of these surfaces be cleaned with the RAD cleaner, or can we just skip to using the brightener before using the stains? Planning to use RAD light walnut for the redwood floor and Defy light walnut for the wall.
Clean and brighten would be best.
Hi Scott, now that all of the following surfaces have been sanded; can you let me know for each one whether 1 or 2 coats of stain should be applied? The spindles and some of the rails are about 4 years old, while everything else is original to the house (built in 1968):
I’d like to do the cleaning/brightening the evening before, I understand I can lightly mist first thing the next morning before applying the stains, correct?
Lastly, any tips or videos showing how to apply the stain without overlapping and getting uneven coverage/appearance? I plan to use the 10″ RAD stain brush, but the deck boards are each ~3.75″. Should the brush be applied in one motion, or is back-and-forth okay?
Thanks for all of your help!
-Tim
1. Need 2 coats for Solid Stains.
2. One coat here.
3. One Coat here.
Only the RAD Stains will work well for damp wood application. Back and forth when applying is okay, just make sure you do not ever any brush marks or thick puddles. Lots of RAD videos on this link: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-customer-videos.html
Got it, thanks Scott. I have 3 gallons of RAD semi-trans and 450 SF between the deck and the wall. I know coverage is 100-200 SF per gallon, and now I see that that is for two coats. So, I think 3 gallons will cover the one coat on the deck and the wall. Does that sound right to you? Thanks for the link to the customer videos, I had missed that part of their site. 👍
Yes, the 3 gallons should cover the one coat for this. Mist with water as well prior to damp wood and it will spread easier and better.
got it, thanks once again Scott! The RAD customer videos were helpful but I do think a deeper dive into application techniques would be helpful, either on this site or the RAD site. For example, how much brushing and/or power washing to do for cleaning and brightening, and how to apply the stain with brushes, pads, etc. Just my two cents, especially since the Deck Stain Help videos don’t show the actual application. (And that’s the most fun part, right? 😉 )
Very happy with the results of the RAD cleaner, brightener, and stains. The 55-year old deck is not without its imperfections, and next year I might try stripping some spots where it looks like the old marine varnish wasn’t fully sanded off, and also try to deal with the nail stains. BUT all-in-all, the redwood shines through beautifully, and the wood paneling on the wall and solid stain on the lower portions of the railing look fantastic. Thank you Scott!
Looks great!
Hi Scott, hope you’re doing well. I have two questions:
1) Can you remind me how frequently RAD semi-transparent stain should be re-applied after it went onto a sanded deck and wall? We did one coat last August on the floors and wall (see above).
2) They were powerwashed two weeks ago. Is cleaning and brightening necessary before we re-apply stain? Trying to coordinate with painting the trim on the porch as well as some steel support columns under the porch.
Thank you!
Tim
1. Decks are very 2-3 years. Vertical walls can last 3-4 years.
2. Yes, you should always use the prep products when reapplying.
Glad to hear this, thanks very much!
Best, -Tim
One other question regarding the floor: do you think a certain tint would look best on this wood? I was originally thinking natural but now I’m wondering if light or dark walnut might look better. I know it’s a matter of preference but would like to hear what your own preference might be. Thanks! Best, -Tim
Any color you like will work!
Hi,
I purchased a cedar pergola kit last year. The cedar arrived pre stained but the kit stated that it was not sealed. What is the best means to prep and stain? Would like to use a semi transparent stain that is easy to maintain going forward.
Thank you
You can probably get another year or so out of this coating. When time to redo, you will need to strip and brighten for prep and then use a semi-transparent stain like Restore A Deck or TWP Stains.
Wood is about 5 years old
Yes Cabot semi transparent stain
not sure what i should do. This version didn’t hold up that well. Additionally Oak Brown appeared a little more red than brown on my wood.
cabot semi transparent stain – oak brown color
semi transparent
some mildew that was under a outdoor rug
probably user error in the application
No pics.
Ah worked better on my phone
Strip and brighen for prep. Try the Restore A Deck Kits: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
This does not look like an easy strip so you may need to sand some as well to get it all off. Brightener would be last:
Hi, just confirming. I have a new pressure-treated pine deck (replaced boards approx. 11 months ago) – did not stain or seal. I just bought Armstrong Clark stain and want to prepare the deck. Being it hasn’t been stained or sealed at all should I just brighten prior to staining? Or clean and brighten? Thank you!
Clean and brighten for prep on your newer wood.
Thank you!!
Hi. I appreciate your advice. Have researched and still have questions. I pressure washed the deck and cleaned it with wood cleaner. Was thinking of sanding and then brightening before staining. Not sure if I should use water or oil based. I am thinking a walnut transparent type color. I am concerned that the railing being newer won’t take stain. Images are just after cleaning and base is darker than usual i found it difficult to scrub the spindles and railing as well with cleaner. How do you know if enough? same with brightener? Thank you in advance
Strip and brighten to remove the Wolman’s as it needs to come off. Then use Restore A Deck Stain in Dark Walnut or TWP 1500 Series in Darl Oak or Black Walnut.
Replying again as I don’t see my reply. Sorry if duplicate. I’d sanding needed, does it happen between stripper and brightener or after brightener? Scattered showers due today, ok to still strip and brighten? If not, how much dry weather do I need? I know I need dry weather before and after staining
If sanding, do after stripping and then brighten last.
Getting ready to stain my existing deck with Defy extreme wood stain in solid black. We replaced the deck boards late last year. The rest of the deck is 30 + years old. I want to stain the underneath of the deck also. How do I go about prepping this to stain?
A good pressure wash should work.
Re prepping a deck. Existing deck is 20 years old. Previously sanded and stained with Behr solid water-based stain (fairly light tan color) a couple of times, the last a few years ago. Peeling and wearing away rapidly; want to re-coat with Olympic Summit solid stain, a little darker. For prep, do I sand? strip? clean? brighten? Or a combination?
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
My question is about a new shed plywood floor (cabana) that I oil based stained then white washed and sanded now I’m looking to seal it. Store recommended using Wolman raincoat water based clear coat. What are your thoughts and how do you maintain it? Thank you.
You cannot sealer over a stain on outside wood. The sealer cannot soak in and would peel.
This is an inside floor of the shed. Does that make a difference? What could I use?
You still cannot use a wood/deck sealer over a stain. Does not work. You would have to use more of an interior polyurethane or a filming coating that dries over your stained wood floor.
FYI, this should never be done for fully exposed exterior wood as it would be a huge mess. You should be okay since it is mostly indoors.
Hi, We live in the Pacific Northwest. We installed an Alaskan Yellow Cedar deck in March 2021. In May, we cleaned the deck using a Messmer deck cleaner. The deck wood turned fuzzy after cleaning and hosing it off. After much back and forth with the stain vendor we finish the deck using Messmer semi-transparent oil stain. In the process, we finished 1/2 of the deck and left the rags in the garage for 2 hours knowing we needed to place them in water. The rags spontaneously combusted causing a lot of damage to our home. After 10 months we are back in our home and what to fix our deck without a ton of sanding. I did sand the facia boards and columns on the front of the deck because they had greyed. It’s not super dirty and we do have areas under the overhang that look pretty good. See attached. We plan to use oil based, semi-transparent cedar tone stain. How do we proceed and what do we use to clean, do we brighten and what stain do you recommend? On a side note, I was born and raised in Metro Detroit. Scott, we need your help! Thanks, Diana
For the stained wood, strip and brighten for prep. For the newer wood, clean and brighten. Use Restore A Deck Prep products. For the stain, try TWP 101 Cedartone.
Where in Metro Detroit?
Appreciate your help.
I grew up in Royal Oak. My brother lives in Bloomfield Hills.
Welcome! Grew up in Birmingham and work in Bloomfield.
Hello people!!
New by here.
Last fall I bought a house with nice fresh looking deck. In Michigan, we had lots of snow over winter and only under entry rug color of the wood stayed close to when we bought it. Seems like wood was not sealed/stained (pictures below)
Question: should I just power wash it and stain (honestly I love only natural colors of the wood), or sand it all -and then seal it. Or any other options (trying to save some immediate $$ till I can afford the rebuild)
Clean and brighten for prep. Use Restore A Deck prep kits. Stain with TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. There is a dealer in Bloomfield Hills, MI.
Greetings,
I am planning to re-stain my deck this summer, and would love to have your advice. It is a large wraparound deck measuring about 500-600 square feet. Age about 35 years; I am unsure of the wood type since the deck was already in place when we purchased the house in 2009. I have stained the deck twice; once around 2010, and a second time about 5-7 years ago, so it’s definitely due. Both times I used Rymar brand oil-based stain/sealer; I’m pretty sure it was the extreme weather variety that I’m linking here, except I don’t know what color I used. About 6 weeks ago I gave the deck a fairly thorough cleaning using a mixture of OxyClean, borax, dish soap, and hot water (this recipe was recommended on Bob Villa’s website as being plant-safe; this is a raised deck and we have ferns growing below, as well as cats that spend time in this area). This pictures that I’ve attached were taken today. Since it’s been over a month since the cleaning, and there is some mildew and algae, my tentative plan is this: (1) Do an additional cleaning using the same recipe noted above; (2) Power wash; (3) Sand if necessary; (4) Stain using Ready Seal oil-based semi-transparent Stain and Seal, probably their natural cedar tone.
I would very much appreciate your comments and advice. My main questions: Is sanding necessary? Do you recommend that I use a deck brightener prior to staining? Thumbs up or thumbs down on my choice of Ready Seal? Is one coat sufficient?
No pics and there are better stains that will last longer than Ready Seal and will not rub off as well.
We’re using the Restore a Deck Cleaner and it is not working well. We installed alaskan yellow cedar last summer. Per recommendation on this site, we allowed the wood to age over the winter to get rid of the mill glaze and open up the wood pores. We live in the Seattle area so naturally we got some mildew in quite a few places as well as ingrained dirt, etc. We gently pressure washed today. Then applied the cleaner with a pump sprayer in a small section. Then scrubbed by hand, then rinsed off with a hose. We’ve done this 2x and the green is not coming out. We tried a gentle pressure wash again. And still isn’t coming out. Any suggestions? Thank you.
That is because the “green” is internal. Finish the cleaning, apply the brightener and let dry. It should be gone then.
Ah. So the brightener helps as well… I will report back after we have finished this stage. Thank you.
I’m about to stain my backyard decks and walkways (all redwood) with TWP 1500 series stain, and I’m not sure what steps I should take to prep due to various ages of the wood and some prior treatment. The primary upper deck surface was rebuilt a year ago with new redwood, has not been stained or sealed, and has aged gray (first pic). The wrap-around steps were added about ten years ago and I’ve periodically used Behr transparent waterproofing wood finish on them, although most of the latest coat has worn off (second pic). Finally, a lower redwood deck that was built about five years ago has a relatively intact coat of Behr transparent waterproofing wood finish on it (third pic). None of the decking have mold or mildew issues. Questions: do I need to use a stripper to remove the waterproofing finish or will the TWP restore-a-deck cleaner remove it? Or, optionally, could I rent a belt sander to remove the old finish? Should I sand any of my decking prior to, or after, cleaning and brightening? Thanks in advance for your help.
Where it is stained and or sealed, use a stripper and pressure washing. Sand if needed any stain that cannot be stripped. Brighten all when done. Clean and brigthen the unstained wood.
Hello. I’m about to stain my backyard decks and walkways (all redwood) with TWP 1500 series stain. Before staining I wanted to know the best prep action to take. I rebuilt the main upper deck about a year ago with all new redwood and I have not stained it or done anything to it (it’s already aged gray). The wrap-around deck stairs were installed about ten years ago and I had periodically used a water based sealer on those which has mostly worn off. The lower deck was installed about five years ago and it also has a water based sealer on it which is in better shape. Because of the various states of the redwood (some new with no treatment, others variously aged and with water based sealant) I was intending to sand all of it first, then clean and brighten with Gemini Restore-a-deck after sanding. Is this the best approach? Thanks for your help.
Post pictures of the areas where it has been stained or sealed for prep help there.
Hi Scott. I just completed a new post with a better explanation along with posted photos. I hope this helps. Thanks.
New house (to me) and I’m not sure what the current coating is. What prep is needed and what new coating would be recommended? Thanks!
Strip and brighten for prep using the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits and both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
What are the advantages/disadvantages of tung oil compared to the stains you recommend? The tung oil is a blend of tung oil, pine oil and a zinc additive.
Tung oil has no UV resistance or mildewcides to prevent mold and mildew.
1. New Wood or Older Wood? Newer, I believe the deck was built in 2017 (maybe that’s old).
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching brands (Recommendations?)
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Behr Transparent Waterproofing
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? See #4 above.
6. Mold or Mildew Issues? Probably mildew.
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Poor maintenance (and possibly stain selection based on some of the comments that I’ve read) from the previous owner.
Thank you in advance!
Strip off what you can and sand the rest that cannot be stripped. Brightener is last.
thank you for any help! We are so frustrated with this deck and it’ll be a huge undertaking, want to do it right.
The BM dried on top of your wood creating a film instead of soaking into the wood grain. This is not going to be easy to strip (might be impossible) and you may have to power sand as well to get it all off. If you want to attempt to strip, then use the Restore a Deck stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
The Brightener would be after. Based on how much comes off you will either have to power sand to remove the rest. The other option is to cover the BM with a solid color deck stain.
Thank you. I thought we’d have to sand to really get the moldy/mildewy stained areas like in the photos. What about the rest of the deck, in the non horizontal surface areas, which still look totally covered w the BM product? Would you try to remove w chemicals only? It would take a week to sand it all off. Adding pics.
Afterwards we were thinking either Ready Seal or Armstrong and Clark, mold/mildew resistance and ease of application are the biggest factors for us, does that seem like a good choice?
Do not use Ready Seal. It does not last and leaves an oily residue that can tract into your house.
The verticals will not strip very well. When a coating has a shine like yours, the strippers will not be able to soak in and work correctly.
You might want to try a two-toned deck since sanding the verticals will be nearly impossible: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Thank you so much. I really appreciate the help. I like the idea of two tone deck and long term that seems like the most ideal for ease of maintenance with this size deck. Even with that shiny coat of arbor coat on the verticals can we get away with just power washing (any product at all? Or just water?) and then applying one of the solid stains recommended in the two tone deck article? For horizontal surfaces the RAD + 2 additives then sand whatever is residual, then brightener and finally stain?
We would still strip all wood including the railings to remove as much as possible. Correct for the horizontals.
New Wood or Older Wood? New pressure treated pine- about 2 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Husband and I applied Cabot Australian Timber Oil in Natural 2 days ago on Saturday.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? First application- will use Armstrong Clark next time.
Deck Stain Brand Previously used? Cabot Australian Timber Oil
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based- semi-transparent
Mold or Mildew Issues? No.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Several wet, shiny and sticky areas. Mineral spirits didn’t remove all of it – should we sand or use the stripper/brightener suggested?
Was the Cabot Oil-based?
It says Superior 3 oil formula. Thanks!
Strip and sand after if needed. Brightener is last.
Thanks so much for responding. Do you think I’ll need to add the additives to the Restore-A-Deck stripper?
It would make it easier to strip if you use them.
Ok! One more question! We stopped staining when we got to our stairs. They are about 1 year old and have not been prepped so no stain was applied. Should I also order the RAD cleaner for those or just use the stripper since we will be stripping our deck? And of course brightener on both!
Cleaner, not stripper for the steps.
New wood – pressure treated pine.
Husband and I applied Cabot Australian Timber Oil in Natural on Saturday (semi-transparent.)
We have numerous areas that have wet looking/sticky areas. After reading your articles we realize our mistakes. We tried mineral spirits on a couple of spots but it didn’t help much. Should we try sanding or just use the stripper and brightener that’s been suggested and start over?
Post some pics and what stain brand did you use?
Did you weather and prep the new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Never mind, we see your other post.
Hi, I have come to your site late in the deck restoring process. I have a two year old treated lumber deck that I just stained with oil semi-transparent. The stain was applied unevenly so some areas are light, and heavy areas have a shine and are tacky. I have also noticed the dark brown color gets hot to bare feet.
How do I go about removing the stain and restraining it with a natural wood color?
Post some pics and what stain brand did you use?
Sherwin-Williams – SuperDeck
Are you sure it is oil based as SW switched to water-based? Do you have a picture of the can?
Yes, oil based
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives. Let dwell for 30-45 minutes and then pressure was off. Restore A Deck Brightener is last.
I sent questions to your site several days ago. It said “waiting for approval”. Did you get it or did I do something wrong. If you did respond how do I find it. Thank you
The last question you posted was in May of last year.
Sorry I must of posted it wrong. My front deck has some kind of stain on it that has a pimple type texture to it. It is like cement. It is peeling in some areas and I cannot figure out how to remove it. I canot use any stripper because my cedar siding meets the deck boards and I have painted wooden railings around the deck. I have used a scrapper, a viberating palm sander, tried pressure washing it and nothing works. I do not know the brand name of the stain [ someone thinks it is rustoleum deck over product.] I hope that you can tell me what to do. I plan on using a solid stain on the deck. I will try to post some pictures. Thank you in advance for your help.
Strippers will not remove this. The only way to remove is to power sand. Another option is to replace the wood. You cannot coat over it, it must be removed.
Thanks for the info. Will a drum floor sander take this off or should I rent a different type of sander? Some of the boards are cupped and uneven. This is going to be a tough job to remove this. Can I just use a floor paint instead or am I asking for big problems painting the floor. I live in upstate NY Thank You!
It will make it worse if you paint it. Sanding is very hard to remove these coatings types, but can be done. Easiest is to replace the wood.
Hey Scott,
Thank you for this website and the information you provide. I have been reading your articles and would appreciate your advice on what needs to be done with my 2 decks. Both decks are pressure treated and around 12 years old. Pool deck is in full sun.
I have Sherwin Williams Deckscapes/Superdeck oil based semi-transparent on them with the last coatings around 3 years ago. It has been stained at least 3 times with the SW. There is mold and it varies in areas. I have replaced some boards over the past 5 years and am currently replacing some more that have water damage.
I still have 3 gallons of the SW left but will not use it. After I replace the remaining boards I plan to stain in the fall once the pool is covered.
I am on the fence on whether to use a water base or the oil based stain. I want to stay with semi-transparent. Please advise on my prep and re-staining options. Should I go with a darker color or something similar? I know I will have to reapply every 2-3 years but would like to avoid having to strip again before reapplication Thanks!
For prep, use the RAD Stripper with both of the additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Neutralize after with the RAD Brightener. As for the stain, you want a penetrating semi-transparent that can be easily clean and recoated as needed. I think your one negative will be the chlorine as that damages deck stains over the years.
Water or oil based will work. See the top picks here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi Scott, your site has helped me a bunch already, thanks in advance.
New Wood or Older Wood? Older Wood
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. I believe previous owner used ACE hardware Wood Royal Semi-Transparent Latex.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Semi-Transparent Acrylic Latex
Mold or Mildew Issues? Not really, few small spots (see pictures)
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Deck stain is fading / chipping & wood is cracking. Deck was installed in 2018 by the previous owner and we live in Michigan so the deck is subject to hot humid & dry freezing climate cycles.
Is a filming acrylic semi-transparent or semi-solid stain which means it is not an easy strip. Your best option is to remove what you can by stripping and then if needed, sand the rest off.
Here are the steps:
-Apply the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
-Let dwell for 45-60 minutes (keep wet by misting) and then pressure wash off.
-If all stain is not removed, then let dry and sand the rest off.
-Brightener would go one after all stain is removed.
Great, thank you so much for the quick response!! After completing the prep and applying a Restore A Deck semi transparent stain, how do you recommend maintaining it after? Hoping to not have to strip & sand every 2-3 years. Thanks!
Clean and brighten as needed to recoat!
Thanks Scott, you rock!
You are welcome!
New Wood or Older Wood? Old wood
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Same brand and same color
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? TWP
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based
Mold or Mildew Issues? In a few spots
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Faded
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition
Is there a way I can fill in where the wood has splintered?
Never use a wood filler with a stain like TWP. It will not work and will not stain to blend. For the prep on your deck, we would strip and brighten with the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brighener Kits.
Do I need to strip it or can I just clean and brighten it with RAD?
We would strip and brighten.
1. New Wood or Older Wood? Deck was built in 2016 with pressure treated pine.
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes – Olympic Elite Woodland Oil (transparent), Mountain Cedar. I cleaned and reapplied the same stain in each of the first 5 years, but skipped last year.
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? I can’t seem to find the exact same stain this year (supply chain issues at Home Depot?), so I’m considering switching to an Olympic semi-solid. I’ll try to match the color as closely as possible.
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Olympic Elite Woodland Oil (transparent), Mountain Cedar
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil based, transparent
6. Mold or Mildew Issues? No
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Not sure, it has always needed a new coat each year. I put an outdoor rug over parts of it, and we have snow and ice in winter (NJ)
That looks like a water-based stain on your deck, not oil as it filmed on top of the wood. It also looks more opaque than solid. It could have been what they call “oil-modified” but it is still water-based. We would switch as Olympic has issues with wearing and peeling. Strip and brighen all. Sand if needed if some cannot strip off. Use a true semi-transparent oil-based stain like TWP or Armstrong Clark.
You can do a two toned on this. Prep all first by stripping off as much as possible. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Let dry and power sand the floors to remove all leftover stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Brighten all wood when done. Solid stain the rails and semi-transparent for the floors.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
FYI, you do not have to remove all stain from the railings since you are using a solid stain there.
Wow amazing info – thank you! This site is awesome! Should I bother stripping the banisters and railing if I am solid staining them? Or just remove any paint that is peeling with a sander?
Next question : There is that solid type existing stain in between the floor boards too. Do I need to somehow sand in there?
i already have Defy Extreme semi transparent for a different small deck. I also bought their wood cleaner and brightener. Woudl those be okay to use?
Last question (sorry) – We need to replace one, or maybe two, floor boards. How do we go about making these as the same as the rest of the floor when stained?
THANK YOU THANK YOU! Couldn’t do this without your site and input. Appreciate it so much.
-Yes, strip the railings to remove the loose and peeling stain. If you need to sand after, it probably would just be the top of the rail.
-You will not be able to get between the boards to sand. Might want to pick a stain that is similar in color so it blends.
-You can use the Defy for the floors.
-The new wood will not blend with the old wood as it is less absorbent. It also and cannot be stained right away. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Hi! My husband and I just bought our first home. Fixing our deck is at the top of our to do list. The previous owner painted it white. The paint is chipping everywhere and the white is extremely bright and blinding to your eyes when it is sunny out. Ideally, we would love to strip the paint and stain the deck a pretty natural color (open to color suggestions). We of course want to do this correctly, so we can enjoy our deck for years to come. We are looking for any and all advice! Thank you 😊
You cannot strip this off so if you want to remove it, you would have to power sand it all off.
Thank you so much for your response. My apologies, I guess ‘strip’ was the wrong term. Regardless, we would like to completely remove the white paint so that we can stain it (we feel a nice stain will last a lot longer than paint). Do you agree? Is power sanding it off the best and only way to remove it all? We are clueless on where to even begin with this project. Thank you!
Yes, you have to fully remove it and sanding is the only way to get this paint off.