This post was updated on April 4, 2025
I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior hardwood restoration. My reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me.
Expert Advice from DeckStainHelp.com
At DeckStainHelp.com, we continue to be the internet’s go-to source for hardwood deck restoration advice in 2026. If you have a hardwood deck made from Ipe, Mahogany, Tigerwood, Cumaru, or another dense exotic wood, choosing the right stain is crucial to maintaining its beauty and longevity. This guide will help you select the best hardwood deck stains and provide tips for application and maintenance.
Why Hardwood Decks Require Special Stains
Hardwood decks are extremely dense, making it difficult for traditional deck stains to penetrate the wood. Because of this, standard wood stains may sit on the surface and prematurely peel or wear off. The best hardwood deck stains are specifically formulated to penetrate dense woods, offering protection against UV damage, moisture, and mildew while enhancing the natural beauty of the wood grain.
Exotic Hardwood Deck Staining
My 8 Tips For Hardwood Deck Staining
1. Understanding Hardwood Deck Staining
There are many different types of wood used for decking material. While the most common is pressure-treated pine, some of the most beautiful are exotic hardwoods. Woods such as Ipe, Redwood, Brazilian, Mahogany, Teak, and Pau Lupe are very sought after for deck owners looking for a gorgeous yet durable deck.
Hardwood decks, like other wood decks, are subjected to the elements and need to be protected with a deck stain or sealer. Hardwoods have different characteristics from more common wood types used in decking. As the name suggests, they are very hard or dense. This means searching for the right deck stain when it comes to protection.
Hardwood Deck Stained
2. My Best Exotic Hardwood Stain Ratings
Because exotic hardwoods are incredibly dense, special hardwood deck stains have been designed explicitly with unique penetrating abilities. Regular deck stain lacks this ability and will not perform well or last long.
When looking for a hardwood deck stain, look for one with exceptional penetrating capabilities and one not prone to peeling. Special oils are used in hardwood stains that penetrate dense hardwood, and help condition the wood fibers. Without the penetrating ability, the stain would remain on top of the surface, providing no protection.
Pro Tip: Click on Each Link Below to Read In-depth Reviews
1. Restore-A-Deck Hardwood Stain
2. Armstrong Clark Hardwood Stain
3. TWP Natural Effect Hardwood Stain Review
#1 Best Hardwood Deck Stain | #2 Best Hardwood Deck Stain | #3 Best Hardwood Deck Stain |
 |  |  |
From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $79.99 *Free Shipping | From: $99.99 *Free Shipping |
3. Hardwood Decking Stain Photos
Pro Tip: Are you not sure what stain color or brand to use? Click on the photos below to see color options.
4. My Hardwood Decking Prep Tips
A good hardwood deck stain will also be easy to clean and reapply as needed. Find an exotic wood stain that fades lightly in color as it wears and will not darken. These characteristics, along with high water repellency and enhanced beauty, will give your hardwood deck the protection it needs.
For Prep, we use a deck stain stripper to remove an old coating of a different brand or a deck cleaner to maintain the stain brand and color. Afterward, we make sure to use a brightener to neutralize the cleaner or stripper on all wood.
Pro Tip: I have found that regular wood cleaning maintenance and stain applications will prolong the life of your hardwood deck. Follow these guidelines when choosing hardwood deck stains so the wood gets maximum protection and you get years of use from your exotic wood deck.
5. My Hardwood Stain Application Tips
Once you have properly prepped the wood and found the exotic hardwood deck stain, it is time to apply it. It’s best to use a stain pad or a flooring push brush for application. These tools allow us to “push” it into the wood. After the stain sits on the wood for a few minutes, it’s important to wipe away any excess stain that has gathered on the surface. Not doing so will result in a “sticky” appearance and conditions that will cause the hardwood stain to fail before it should.
6. My Hardwood Deck Stain Video
Pro Tip: Watch my in-depth hardwood deck stain video. Reviews and advice on what to use for the best results
7. How to Properly Stain a Hardwood Deck
Step 1: Clean & Prep the Wood
- Use a deck cleaner to remove dirt, mildew, and any previous coatings.
- If necessary, use a wood brightener to restore the wood’s natural color and improve stain absorption.
- Allow the wood to dry for at least 24-48 hours before staining.
Step 2: Apply the Stain
- Stir the stain thoroughly before application.
- Use a brush, pad applicator, or sprayer for even coverage.
- Wipe off excess stain within 30-60 minutes to prevent tacky residue.
Step 3: Maintenance and Reapplication
- Hardwood decks require regular maintenance, typically every 12-18 months.
- Clean the surface and apply a light maintenance coat as needed to refresh the stain and maintain protection.
8. Final Thoughts
Choosing the right stain for your hardwood deck can significantly impact its longevity and appearance.
If you’ve stained a hardwood deck, we’d love to hear about your experience! Leave a comment below and share your pictures.
I have a 25 year old mahogany deck in Portland , OR, stripped and brightened 6 weeks ago. No rain for 48 hours and forecast is for highs 50-51, lows 35-37, no rain next 72 hours. Should I let them sand and stain with Cabot’s oil-based Australian Timber Oil or wait for Spring?
You have to reclean and brighten since it has been 6 weeks. Do now or Spring. Do not use the Cabot. Not the same formula as it used to be. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Is it possible to achieve a chocolate color with Red Balau wood?
Try Armstrong Clark in Black Walnut.
Thank you!
My mahogany deck is not new. It has been stripped, cleaned and brightened. I can’t decide between Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent or Deckwise Ipe Oil Semi-transparent.? And how soon after rain and before it will rain ? One side gets sun most of the day.
I have to do this as soon as possible !
Use the AC. Wait 48 hours after any rain to stain and not rain for 24 hours.
G’day
Just spent best part of a year building a Cumaru deck in Michigan only to have the Penofin penetrating rosewood oil the lumber yard recommended and sold to me fail after the first winter (looked very dry and blotchy).
I pressure washed and applied another coat in the spring hoping to recover (I got sold a number of tins with the Cumaru…). It then quickly went black in the summer which I was not expecting. Pressure washing helped get some of the black off but seemed to take the oil with it and did not get all the black off. West facing deck gets full sun in summer, horizontal surfaces are a joke after just a few months – summer or winter.
I used a deck cleaner product and gave it another pressure wash and then reapplied the last of the Penofin to make it look reasonable before an October party. Also started doing more research bringing me here. Penofin looks great out of the tin but it seems I’ve been riding a dead horse on this product and / or my prep and come next spring I want to start fresh.
How best can I reset from whats left of my Penofin mess and start again with a better prep and product?
I accept it will likely be a yearly maintenance thing but for that effort it should look reasonable coming up to 12 months, not blacken and ideally it would have a slight sheen to it when dry. What tint would you recommend to bring out the rich colors of Cumaru?
I’ve moved from Australia to the US and don’t recall these types of problems on various Merbau hardwood decks friends have built over there, granted they don’t get the same winters.
Thanks, Scott
The issue is the Penofin. It doesn’t last and turns black. Strip and brighten to remove it with Restore A Deck Stripper Kits. Stain with one of these top brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
I’m reading references to “cleaning” and “brightening” before using the stain. I have a very hard wood Brazilian deck that I have just finished thoroughly pressure washing. Can I just apply this Restore-A-Deck stain or do I need other products first?
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener with pressure washing.
To clarify, you are saying that I should use the RAD cleaner and brightener after having finished the pressure wash? Is there a time constraint between the pressure washing and the cleaning and brightening? I’m going to add some info here as well: The deck is ten years old and was stained three times with the last time being 5 years ago. The stain used before is unknown to me. The wood is so hard it breaks screws as it warps in the sun (not so much anymore but when it was first installed.)
It actually looks pretty clean so you probably do not need to clean and brighten anymore.
Here is a picture of the wood. This wood is so strong that the sun warped boards slightly when we first installed it and it broke screws. The deck is 10 years old, it’s been stained before about three times but it’s likely been 5 years since last staining. I can’t say what the last stain used was. 600 square feet. (Trying to answer the questions I’m seeing on other posts.)
Hi, I have a hardwood fence rail that was stained 2 years ago with Flood Hardwood stain. I’m think of using Armstrong Clark stain this time. Is it necessary to sand the old stain before re-staining?
Yes, you have to remove the Flood if switching.
Thanks. Would I need to use a stripper or cleaner?
Strip and possiblly sand. Brighten after.
Hi. Have you reviewed the PENOFIN ARCHITECTURAL GRADE TMF HARDWOOD?
If so, please let me know your thoughts on this product. Thanks
All Penofin products have issues with turning dark or black on decks. They do look great initially but it will fade within a few months. We would not use any of them: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/penofin-hardwood-wood-stain-review-2014/
So that’s a no? You haven’t tried or reviewed PENOFIN ARCHITECTURAL GRADE TMF or TMS HARDWOOD sealer? It isn’t a stain.. More of a sealer and is transparent. This is not the same as cheaper Penofin products. Looking for an honest review and looks like I need to keep looking
We have used and it did not last. Looks great when applied to IPE, faded away in 6-7 months. We have not written a review as of yet.
So, just for clarification, Has the team used the “Architectural” version of Penofin. Not the normal one. This is the $80 a gallon version with a 2-year guarantee. I’m seriously considering it, but haven’t seen any comparison/reviews of the Penofin Architectural Grade
All Penofin turns black or dark in color sand odes not last. We would not suggest it or use it.
I’m using Penofin TMF Hardwood (transparent matte finish) on my Cumaru deck today. I have Cumaru in my shower entry and the finish is amazing.
Penofin has issues with turning black in color over a short time after applying it on decks and it will wash away from your shower wood in a month or two if the water gets on it.
Can hardwood stains be used on pine and cedare?
Yes, but the colors will be different.
We are gong to put up approx 700 sf of red balau shiplap siding in san diego approx .25 mi from ocean with heavy sun exposure. I have read that you recommend waiting a couple months before staining/sealing, but given that it will be installed vertically is there any tricks you recommend? Or do I just wait the 2 months clean and apply once it’s up?
Also, we are hoping to get a rich darker brown color (similar to ipe). Is there a color tint you recommend for the Balau?
You will need to let it weather and prep. No way to speed that up. Not sure what Balau looks like when stained. Can you post a picture of it wet with water and then we can help from there.
What is best way to remove stain from mahogany deck?
That would depend on the type and brand of stain you are removing? See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
Looking for a good deck oil/sealer for a new Balu mahogany deck. It’s got beautiful color and I’d like to keep it that way. I have yet to fasten it to the frame as I’d like to oil both sides. I’ve been told that ipe oil is a good product, but having never used it before I’m Leary as I got burned with a product once before…
No need to stain both sides. Try Armstrong Clark in Amber color. It is tinted and you must have a tint for UV protection.
We are having tongue and groove mahogany installed in a 3 season porch that does have heating/ac but it will only be heated when we are using the room. What type of sealer do you recommend for this application? We live in Massachusetts so it gets cold in the winter.
Look at the Defy Hardwood Stain or the Restore A Deck Wood Stain.
I have a new ipe deck that was just installed but the wood looks like it was in the lumbar yard for awhile. Would like to clean and brighten and sand lightly any areas that may need it and then stain. The deck is in Florida and gets full sun.
Is my prep process correct?
What are your thoughts on Penofin Architectural Stain for Hardwood?
What stain would you recommend?
Thank you
The new IPE needs to sit for a few months and then cleaned and brightened for the prep before staining. Penofin turns black and has very poor UV resistance. Try Defy Hardwood stain or Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors.
It seems you only have review for the penofin hardwood. Have you tried their architectural grade tsf or tmf? They quote much longer times between application than the brown cans.
We have not tried them.
Hi, We have a 3yr old mahogany deck. If we sand the deck do we need to use a cleaner and a brightener? Also what stain would you recommend. We live in Colorado and the deck faces west so we get strong sunlight most of the year as well as snow. Its a very dry climate. The stain we previously used is Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Attached is a photo of the deck’s current condition.
The best prep would be to strip and brighten the wood. Much easier than sanding and will leave the wood in a proper “porous” state.
Previous comment, Ridgewood was supposed to be Tiger Wood
7 year old Ridgewood deck needs refreshing. what is the best transparent penetrating stain to use on Tiger Wood?
Try Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors or Defy Hardwood Stain.
Hi, Thank you for your extensive collection of articles educating consumers on the various options available in the stain and deck care space. We live in Connecticut and have a covered front porch and back deck both of mahogany.
Front porch is well protected from the elements and gets relatively little foot traffic and is in relatively good shape. The back deck gets sun , snow and everything in between and has been neglected resulting in cracks in some areas on the wood.
What preparation and hardwood stains do you recommend I use on these decks to preserve them and improve their resistance to wear and tear. The deck was last treated with Cabot Australian Timber Oil, do I need to strip the existing stain off before application of a new stain? If yes is it best to do this via light sanding or with a stain stripper product?
One of the products recommended to me was the “Duckback (now Sherwin Williams ) penetrating exotic hardwood stain” which I do not see a review of on your site. Do you have an opinion on this product. Look forward to your response.
-DJ
Yes, stain stripper and brightener for the prep. Easy to remove the Cabot ATO.
The SuperDeck Exotic is the same as the regular SuperDeck, just a different label: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/sherwin-williams-superdeck-stain-review-2017/
Thanks for the quick reply. I see that SuperDeck has very poor reviews on your site and the Cabot ATO is also reviewed as doing very poorly in the winter and snow which is something we have experienced first hand. Two questions
1) Is there an alternate stain that would work better under the conditions, as I mentioned we are in Connecticut and the back deck receives both snow and direct sun
2) What do you recommend for filling in the cracks/splinters on the back deck?
-DJ
1. TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark
2. You cannot use crack filler on decks. Will not work nor will it blend with the stain.
Hi, I’m about to install a tongue & groove mahogany porch floor. I was thinking about using the penofin hardwood penetrating oil on all sides before installing it. Is there a better product to use for this application? Should I wait before installing it? The boards have been acclimating for a few months, but they’ve been covered. Thanks!
You cannot stain this right away and no need to stain all sides. Install, wait 2-3 months, clean for the prep, and just stain the exposed side. Penofin turns dark brown or black after a year. Try the Armstrong Clark in a Hardwood color or Defy Hardwood Stains.
What wood sealer will provide protection but not overly darken my Batu deck and do I need to wait a period of time on a new deck?
Wait a few months. clean and brighten the wood for prep. Try Armstrong Clark in Amber color.
Just installed ipe deck and would like to know the best product to get the “wet” look color. (The color it becomes after it rains) . I tested the Messmers in the natural color but it seems to make it a browner/darker tone. Is there any sealer that just enhances the color without actually staining it?
Enhancing means you are staining it. Try Amber by Armstrong Clark.
Thanks. I’ll look at it.
Hi!
I am installing a new deck in Batu hardwood. I am in Northern California, Oakland. Pretty much full sun exposure. I want to achieve a nice rich color and not let it fade to grey. Can you recommend the best product to use as well as how long I need to wait before applying? I thought I would be applying right away, but from reading comments here, it sounds like the wood needs to sit raw for awhile? Thank you so much for your help!
Sit for a few months and clean the deck before staining. Look at Armstrong Clark in Amber color.
Thanks! So my contractor has not installed this type of decking material before and did not seal the end cuts as he was building the deck. After 1 month, I am already getting cracking on the ends of the boards. Is there any remedy to prevent further splitting? I am panicking that my deck is already failing and it isn't even complete. He wants to sand down the deck and apply the stain. Do we need to sand the new deck, or is the cleaner/brighter prep enough? Any help or advice is much appreciated! I want this deck to turn out beautiful and I am scared!
Splits at the end will happen no matter what and applying an end cut sealer there will not stop this. It is not a big deal so do not worry about it. Clean and brighten for the prep. Clean and reapply every year or as needed.
Hi there
We have just installed a new Batu (red balau) hardwood deck, Northern California East Bay Area, summers will have full sun exposure.
We were considering the Penofin hardwood oil but after reading some reviews are still searching.
-Is the 1st year application process the only key to avoiding the molding/blackening? As long as mildecide Is in stain will we avoid that issue?
-if our hardwood was already exposed to climate/air at local lumber yard is wait time before staining still 12 mos?
-we are awaiting railing and hoping to stain I'm about 3-4 weeks which will be about 1.5 months after install and now looking at Armstrong.
-any feedback on Storm #2 products also appreciated.
-Stains will help to prevent mold as long as they have a mildewcide.
-You do not need to wait 12 months.
-Prep with a deck cleaner after you wait the 2 months. Just one coat of the Armstrong Clark
Somehow I can't seem to get logged in. Hopefully my question can be answered. We have teak outdoor furniture – table, 6 chairs and a couple of lounges. They are probably around 15 years old and to my knowledge have never been sealed or stained. I would like to stain them a gray but have no idea how to prep or what stain to use. I've ready so many articles on your sight I'm totally confused. Thanks for any help you can give
Rj, prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with Armstrong Clark in Driftwood Gray.
I have a dock on a fresh water lake with IPE as the decking material. What stain would folks recommend. I only visit the property a couple times a year, so I am looking for something that will require little maintenance.
Thanks.
James, try the Armstrong Clark in Mahogany or Amber colors. Other option is the Defy Hardwood Stain.
My new mahogany back porch is just 7' square with surrounding steps down to grade – 3 steps. Now it's time to treat. The problem is the weather. It will be clear tomorrow, then 100% chance of rain the next day, then a week straight of clear days with highs in the 40's and 50's and lows in the 20's and 30's. Should I have him go ahead and treat? Also, I am hoping to bring out the color and protect from sun and snow. He purchased Messmer's UV Plus in Natural With Transoxide Pigment High Solids Formula. That's a mouthful, but is it a good choice? His helper tells me to get Sherman Williams.
You should not stain it now. Let it sit until next Spring. Clean and brighten for prep. The Messmers is a decent hardwood stain.
Thanks. What do you mean by "clean and brighten for prep"? I could sweep off dust from construction, then keep it covered with plastic until the spring. Is that your advice?
Leave uncovered. It needs to weather in the open. Prep with a product like the Restore A Deck Kits. That contains both a deck cleaner and wood brightener.
Need to apply a water base exotic clear stain for African Rock Wood on the beach at Hilton Head, S.C. What should I use? It's about 15,000 square ft. Can I spray it or does it need to be applied w/a roller? Thank You, Bill
No tint at all? That means no uv protection from graying.
looking for stain recommendation for Mahogany deck restain. The deck has been sanded, only traces of the old finish is visable. I live in Oregon
Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany tint.
Hello. I am located just north of Chicago and have a two tired teak deck surrounding an inground pool. Sides of deck are ipe. Deck was installed six years ago. It is mostly full sun. We have been getting away with prepping and reapplying stain every two years. The first year we used Messmers the other years Benjamin Moore Hardwood Stain in their "teak" color. What brand hardwood stain comes in the darkest color? Doubt it's available, but looking for almost an espresso color. Also, is it possible to "adjust" any brand of hardwood stain color? From reading through reviews and comments it looks like my best bet will be Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color. A deep reddish tone would be ok just want to avoid anything orangish. Any advise?
The Mahogany is red on teak but looks orangish on softwoods such as pine or cedar. I would get some samples to test. TWP 1504 Black Walnut may work as well and that is the darkest color we have used.
Thank you for your fast response! I read the review section for TWP 1500. Will it work good on hardwood? Looks like the test you did was on cedar.
TWP is vague on the use for IPE. Probably because IPE is so dense that not matter what it will require reapplication annually.
Hello, I have a mahogany deck that is about 10 years old, it get's partial sun, and i live in New Hampshire so winters can be quite harsh. I just finished cleaning the deck multiple times with a cleaner and pressure washer to get all the grime off. I'm almost ready for stain. I did some research and it seems like the TWP 1500 series in redwood is what i want to go with. What do you think?
WE have used TWP 1516 Rustic for Mahogany with good results but the manufacturer of TWP does not suggest their stain for hardwoods such as Mahogany. Might want to look at the Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color.
Hi, I have a new small deck built with Red Balau in San Jose, CA. Partial sun as it is covered by a Monterey Pine tree that does tend to drip sap. I am looking for a good sun and water resistant stain that will be close to the natural color and possible make it easier to remove the sap. What would you recommend?
Thanks!
Try the TWP 1500 or the Armstrong Clark.
Any experience with staining Accoya wood? From what I'm reading, I would consider it a hardwood. I have not done so yet, however, I am seriously considering replacing the floor of my deck with Accoya (rails are powdercoated wrought iron). I am in central North Carolina. The deck gets full sun during the summer months and most of it is shaded during the winter. It is also advised to treat all sides of this particular wood (which I realize you say is not necessary). Interested in your thoughts please. Just in case, their instructions can be found at Accoya.com under "Downloads". Wealth of information on this site and thanks to all who participate in putting it together!
Looks like it is a thermally modified wood. Sounds interesting bu no experience with it. Would love to see some pictures in our forum if you decide to use it!
Thanks for your reply. It appears to be relatively new here in the States; fortunately, there are two lumber companies within driving distance of me that stock Accoya. I'm waiting on a sample and pricing to arrive. We'll go from there! If I decide to use it, I would be more than happy to post pictures. I'm just not sure which route I would take with stain and I don't have anyone in this area I trust to guide me. Thanks again for your response and the knowledge you're sharing with us on this site.
Hello,
I inherited an IPE deck from previous owner; I guess it’s maybe 5+ years old. It looked really rich when we bought the home but of course now it’s faded and needs to be … “redone”.
So I’m not sure what was done to the wood … sealed? Stained? Both? What products were used? Just don’t know.
Yesterday, I scrubbed off the deck with a mixture of TSP powder, a little mild dish detergent, and some bleach (recommended by a few IPE web sites as a homemade cleaning solution). I then let it dry.
I had bought some Flood CWF Hardwood IV (is this stuff stain, sealer, …?) . This product was also recommended by an IPE expert web site. I opened the can and was surprised to see a thick, chocolate milk looking fluid. I expected a more of a watery, clear stain. I tried brushing on this product, and it seemed to be very buttery/greasy. Just sat there on the wood; I had to rub it in with the damp towel.
I don’t have a good feeling about applying this product. After a few planks, I decided to seek help.
My questions:
Do you know anything about Flood CWF Hardwood? Is it an appropriate product?
Do I have to prepare the wood of the deck in other way(s) before attempting to apply a finish coat of something? Maybe I need to strip away all previous treatments?
Thanks. You guys really seem to know your stuff.
Bob
Flood CWf is an average product but we do not like the consistency either. If you still have old stain visible than yes you should strip it off. If not than clean and brighten for the prep.
Thanks for your quick reply. Something is concerning me though; even after I strip the old stain off (using Restore-a-Deck which is your best recommendation) ..and then maybe clean and brighten …won't I be in the same boat 1 or 2 years from now?
I mean, I have a stain that needs to be stripped (now) so that I can apply a new finish (stain) to it. It will last 1 or 2 years, and then, won't I have to again strip this latest application of stain in order to refinish (stain) the deck next time around? It seems not to make sense that I have to take off the old stain so that I can put on a new stain, ad infinitum. Or am I not understanding something ….
Penetrating oil based stains do not peel but rather fade. They can be cleaned and reapplied without the need for stripping. Hope that explains the difference.
Hi everyone.
I've just had a new mahogany deck installed and I'm looking for the right sealer/stain.
I live in Northern New Jersey and the deck will get full sun, partial shade. The winters can get pretty harsh and frozen. There is a large tree on the left, so we get a lot of junk falling from the trees as weld as bird droppings. In fact, there are already some spot stains on the new woods thanks to those pesky birds. >:(
I'd like to keep the natural look of the wood without changing the color, although I realize that it should give me that wet look, which I love. any suggestions? Not too worried about cost. I'm more interested in quality and ease of application.
The decking guy who put it in recommends Sherwin Williams, but I just don't know.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Look at the Armstrong Clark in the Amber color for this deck in NJ and a wet look. Stay away from SW.
Great, thanks. I will definitely look at that one. I was also looking at the Messmers.
As for the oil based stains, any advice/tips on application, prep, or setup?
Messmers makes a decent product for hardwoods as well. Use a deck cleaner and wood brightener for prep and we like stain pad applicators.
Thank you for the advice.
I also contacted ACR directly, and they recommended the Amber or Mahogany stain.
But I'm a bit confused….why would I use Amber (or Mahogany) stain if I want to keep the natural color of the wood?
When I clean the deck with a brightener, does it "bleach" the deck? Will it discolor the natural finish of the wood?
Thanks again.
Clear with no color will not give you any protection from graying. this is normal for any brand of stain.
After years of peeling from using the Sherman William exterior deck stain (hated it), I finally had enough and sanded down the deck to the wood. Today. I applied the arborcoat clear stain and overall very happy with the application. I have been happy with Benj Moore products in the past and hope this one is of similar. After the application, I do notice a bit of unevenness in the coat on the floor of the deck and want to apply a second coat before I return with the furniture. How long should I wait before applying this?
thx
We have had our IPE deck for 10 years. WE have always used Penofin. We would like to switch stains, but the gazebo
Marcy, it you want to switch from Penofin I would suggest the IPE Oil or the Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color.
OK, thanks. You say clean and brighten "again". Am I correct to take that to mean that it would be necessary to clean and brighten now (after my recent stripping job) as well as again in the spring. That is, is there a problem with having stripped now and then waiting until the spring to do the cleaning and brightening.
BobbyZ
BobbyZ, no need to clean brighten now, just in the Spring before applying the stain.
I live in coastal North Carolina; on the sound, about 1/2 mile from the Intracoastal waterway. We installed a wrap around deck (3 sides), of pressure treated pine about 3 years ago and have not put anything on it. We get a lot of green mold in this very humid area. We want to put a waterproofer on it now, but we don't want to have to strip anything later. I already wash it twice a year because of the mold that accumulates, so I don't mind having to clean it regularly. What should I put on it to take care of it and help it last longer, but only have to clean it and reapply as needed. Also, I always clean it with a mixture of Clorox, Dawn, and water. It is the only thing I have found that will take the mold off, still with some scrubbing. Thank you for any insight for me.
Barbara, for a pressure treated deck that has mold issues I would suggest the TWP 100 Series in Florida.
When asking questions on Deck Staining please include: 1. State you live in Virginia (northern) 2. Full Shade, Partial Shade, or Full Sun Partial Shade 3. Type of Wood Pressure treated pine 20 years old 4. Mold or Mildew Issues minor 5. Main Issues with Previous Stains Just stripped off Behr semi-transparent because it would not dry–still tacky/sticky after 3 weeks of good dry weather. Felt certain I was facing future flaking issues–hope I was right because stripping process just about killed me. Still need to finish cleaning to neutralize–hope to do that this weekend. Now looking for recommendations as to best stain and whether upcoming weather (highs around 58-59 and lows around 37) would already dictate leaving the deck bare for this winter. I am leaning toward the Armstrong Clark Semi-solids because of the promise that I might not have to do this job until further down the road, i.e., they evidently last longer. But I would like to confirm that they are not like solid to the point that they might flake and would need to be stripped, rather than simply cleaned and re-stained in the future. Ready seal, although it reportedly fades fast, evidently has no high or low temperature restrictions. If you think it is too late/cold for Armstrong Clark or another such stain, would Ready Seal be an option, followed by Armstrong Clark in a few years? Thanks for your valuable site!
BobbyZ, If it were us we would leave until Spring and clean and brighten again for the prep. AC semi-solid is a penetrating stain that does not film on top of the wood. You may get some wear but it does not peel. When time to reapply it can be cleaned and re coated. You could apply Ready Seal now and AC later on down the road as well.
I just completed a new deck with knotted cedar. the wood bought in august, 2013. Since I live in New Jersey, the winter is coming, should I stain it now or wait until next spring? right now, my plan is clean it, brightning it, sand it with 50 grit drum sander to smooth and even the decking, then stain it. what is your advise?
Best to wait until Spring.
I have 1000 sq. feet of IPE decking installed 4 months ago. i want to find out which is the best stain to use? I understand that there are only a limited stains which work on exotic hardwood like the IPE which are IPE oil; Armstrong hardwood stain; Defy hardwood stain; Messimer's hardwood stain and Penofin harwood satin.
Which would be the best to start using on my IPE deck on a yearly basis?
Minal, Defy Hardwood stain or the Armstrong Clark in the Amber or Mahogany color.
I have contracted to have a redwood deck and stairs built at my house in the Colorado Mountains at 9600 feet. What is the best type of stain for me to use and when should I apply it? We get a LOT of snow every year as well as freezing temperatures and ice. In addition, the deck will get at least 8 hours of sun every day that the sun is out (300 days a year). Thanks for your help and your site is great!
Christopher, please read this about Staining new Decks
NEED QUICK ADVICE! I have 900 sq feet of 4-year-old mahogany porches that have been re-stained twice (so 3x in all) and have never looked as they should. My new contractor wants to use a Sikkens product but now that I am reading this I don't think he should. The Armstrong sound like the best for hardwoods but my problem is that the porches are being sanded today and I would have to mail order the Armstrong. It is my understanding that the wood should be stained as soon as possible after sanding, not several days from now. Is there another product that would be good that I can purchase locally (CT – 06877)? Any help would be much appreciated.!
Gwen, you do not need to stain right away and waiting a few days or longer will not hurt the wood. You should clean the wood as well after the sanding.
Hi, I am in the process of installing a southern yellow pine PT wood deck and the contractor suggested to stain it in 4-5 weeks. I am in northern virginia and was curious about what stain and sealer should I use for this. Also do I need to pressure wash or do anything else to this brand new deck before staining and sealing?
Laj, please read Staining New Decks
My husband and I replaced our old deck with new, smooth redwood. We live in Huntington Beach, CA and the deck is in full sun until about 5:00 pm. It has only been finished for 2 days and already we are having problems with mold growing. We are planning on staining it in 4-6 weeks with a clear or semi-transparent stain to keep the beautiful redwood look. Will the mold do damage if we wait to clean/prepare the deck before the stain or should we do it sooner because of the mold?
Amanda, please read this article: Staining New Decks
Mold will not hurt it.
We have a six year old deck made of IPE wood that gets little sun, we are in the woods of Minnesota. Our contractor initially stained it with Penofin, my husband power washed it and stained it after two years each with Penofin. It is dark greyish brown with green mold. I hate it. Had our contractor told us it would not remain the beautiful red without lots of work we would have never let him talk us into this IPE wood. We wanted a composite. We are now fine sanding down all the surfaces and want to use the best sealer/finisher we can find. This is way more work then we were lead to believe. What would you suggest we use on it?
Roberta, nothing will last for more then a season of IPE. Strip and bright withe the Restore A Deck products for the prep then stain with Armstrong Clark in the Mahogany color.
I have a Brazilian mahogany deck that I cleaned and it's now spotty with some areas much lighter than others. Should we use a solid stain and what brand/color to get it to look mahogany?
Paul, are the spots form an old stain? Does it look even when wet with water. I would never apply a solid color to a mahogany deck.
I have deck made of pressure treated pine, that is 10 years old. It's never been stained, so it is a time. What stain is going to be best to do restoration in my climate: Calgary, Alberta.
Casper, I would look at the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color for this old and dried out deck.
I have a dilemma with regard to staining/sealing of a "soon-to-be" installed redwood deck, located in Angel Fire, New Mexico (elevation: 8,700 ft.). Obviously, I would like to 1) achieve the best possible result at the initial install, 2) do the re-stain/re-seal aspect as infrequently as possible in the future, and, maybe as importantly, 3) stain/seal the wood before installing onto the deck sub-structure.
I have a dilemma with regard to staining/sealing of a "soon-to-be" installed redwood deck, located in Angel Fire, New Mexico (elevation: 8,700 ft.). Obviously, I would like to 1) achieve the best possible result at the initial install, 2) do the re-stain/re-seal aspect as infrequently as possible in the future, and, maybe as importantly, 3) stain/seal the wood before installing onto the deck sub-structure.
Many (most?) of the commentary I read on line indicates that "new" wood should NOT be stained until after 4+ months of exposure to the elements. This fact is not only inconvenient, but also adds immeasurably to the process, e.g., stain/seal BEFORE installation provides for a more complete access to all sides of the boards, but it also eliminates the need to mask-off several hundred square feet of stucco siding on the house.
Finally, I would also appreciate it if you could suggest which brand(s) of stain/sealer to use on redwood. I have managed to purchase a batch of lumber that is all heartwood, i.e., all red, with no white (sap wood?), so assuming that the deck (after staining) should be very uniform in color.
I will most grateful if someone with experience can advise/direct me (totally no experience) on this matter. Thank you in advance for your response.
Tom, if you do not wait then your stain will prematurely fail. There is no need to stain all sides, just the exposed side. Might want to look at the Armstrong Clark in the Amber color.
Many thanks for the timely response. I will check out the Armstrong product.
I have 3 decks with Tiger Wood decking that is 4 yeas old. Two of the decks are covered and one is totally exposed. When new all of the decks where treated with Penefin Blue. After the first year the exposed deck and perimeter of the 2 covered decks were very gray, almost white. At that time I cleaned with largest deck to remove the oxidized layer and recoated with the Penefin.
Recently I have used a Behr cleaner and brightener to try to remove the white wood, white very disappointing results. Even at 100% concentration and scrubbing with a bristle brush did not remove all of the oxidized wood layer. I did try some Mini Wax cherry wood stain which gave a pretty nice color to the wood.
Is there a better cleaner to try to remove the oxidized wood layer? Is it reasonable to just oil stain over the oxidized wood?
Please let me know where I should go from here. What if any cleaner and what type of stain for best long term wood color retention?
Thanks for the information
Merel, you probably need a stain stripper and wood brightener to fix since you still have some Penofin left on the deck. This would work better then a cleaner. Stain when done with Armstrong Clark in Amber or possibly Messmers UV Plus for Hardwoods.