Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in new deck staining and prep. My tips for staining a new deck are based on my extensive hands-on experience as a wood and deck restoration contractor. I’ve tested and worked with a wide range of products, so I can guide you toward the top choices that will ensure the best results for your deck.See here for more info about me.
- Wait at least 3 months before staining new wood, allowing it to weather and become porous enough to absorb stain effectively.
- Always clean and brighten new wood before staining to remove mill glaze, dirt, and UV graying for better stain penetration.
- Apply only one coat of stain on new wood, even after the waiting period, as overapplying leads to premature failure.
- Stains containing paraffin oil, like Armstrong Clark and Restore-A-Deck, penetrate new wood better with shorter waiting periods.
Staining a New Deck in 2026
DeckStainHelp.com has earned its reputation as the go-to website for all things related to exterior wood surface restoration. One important tip I always recommend is waiting at least 3 months before staining new wood surfaces. This allows the wood to naturally weather and create a porous surface that holds the stain more effectively. Keep in mind that the waiting period can vary depending on the stain brand and the type of wood, so always check the manufacturer’s guidelines for the best results. Our top new wood deck stains are the Armstrong Clark and the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
I encourage customer interaction on our site, so feel free to participate in our open discussion in the comment area.
See our Deck Stain Facts section, which contains over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all your questions about deck staining.
My Pro Tips for How to Stain New Decks
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- How Long Should We Wait to Stain New Wood?
- Staining New Smooth Decking
- How to Prep and Stain New Decking
- Review the Best Stains for New Decks
- Watch My Video on How To Stain New Decks
- Ask me for Help on Staining New Wood
1. How Long Should You Wait to Stain a New Deck?
Over the past 12+ years, we have had numerous questions on the site, but none was asked more than “What stain or prep is needed for my new deck”? Homeowners believe it is okay to stain new wood immediately or before installing the deck. This is incorrect for most wood types and stain brands.
In this article, I will cover the required prep and the waiting period before applying a stain for the first time.
Staining New Decks
2. Staining New Smooth Decking
New smooth decking boards are not porous enough for most stains to penetrate properly. This is mainly due to:
- Mill glaze when cut
- High moisture content
- Chemicals in Pressure-Treated Wood
Most wood stains have difficulty penetrating the wood cells when applied to new wood. This results in an uneven application and premature stain failure by quickly fading or peeling. Remember, the deeper the stain soaks into the wood, the longer the life of the stain.
3. How To Prep and Stain New Smooth Wood:
- Install wood and let weather for 1-12 months. This varies depending on the stain brand. Read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.
- After waiting, you should use a wood cleaner and a wood brightener. This will remove the dirt, UV graying, and mill glaze.
- Let the wood dry for a few days after the cleaning.
- Apply only one Coat of the stain! Even after the waiting period, new wood is still not very absorbent. Overapplying the stain will not give long-lasting results. You want to achieve one even coat that soaks into the wood.
- Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat in 12-18 months.
Once you get through the first couple of years, your deck stain will perform much better as the wood will allow more stain and deeper penetration into the wood.
My Pro TIP: Do not sand new wood. This will smooth the wood, reducing the stain’s ability to penetrate the wood.
Rough Sawn Wood
New Rough or Rough Sawn Wood?
Rough-sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces but rather vertical surfaces such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood is very absorbent and does not have a mill glaze. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained right away.
4. Review Best Deck Stains for New Wood
Stain Brands Best for New Wood?
In our opinion, certain brands of stains will work better on new wood. Over the years, we have tried numerous stains on new wood, and we have found that stains that contain paraffin (non-drying oil) will penetrate into newer wood better, provide better coverage, and can be applied sooner.
My Pro TIP: If you do not want to wait 4-12 months for the wood to weather, we suggest one of these brands for new wood.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain – Waiting period of 2-3 months
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Waiting period of 3 months
Timber Oil Brand – Waiting period of about 1-2 months
If choosing one of these brands, you must still prep the wood to remove mill glaze by cleaning and brightening it.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $58.99 *Free Shipping |
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5. Watch My Video on New Wood Deck Staining
6. Questions on New Deck Staining
Are you still unsure of how to stain a new deck? Please ask below if you still have questions about when to stain a new deck and how to do it. I am glad to assist you.
I have a brand new cedar deck. What is your opinion of using linseed oil and turpentine as a preservative?
Useless. It will attract mold and mildew and will do about zero for UV protection from graying. You also cannot stain or coat new wood right away. See here for tips and what to use for new decks:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
My application isn’t a deck but a tongue and groove soffit (pine) with 4×10 beams (doug fir). Small cabin with a closed roof assembly so this soffit is an extension of the interior ceiling. New construction in NE TN. We were planning to apply Nisus’ Boracare product as a pre-treatment prevention for mold/termites and then apply a semi-transparent stain. We’re testing samples of Penofin, Armstrong Clark and TWP 1500. Concerned about Penofin reviews about blackening so began looking at the other brands. Does this type of application (none of it is pressure treated wood) need a cleaner/brightener also? We were planning to just do the BoraCare treatment and after it is good and dry apply the semi-transparent, both with a sprayer. The wood has so far weathered for about 2 months. If we did cleaner/brightener I would assume that would be done prior to the BoraCare?? Bad idea to use a sprayer for this overhead application?? (followed by rags/pad to even out the stain)?
Curious whether you are able to weigh in on this type of application or if you literally only deal with decks.
You should weather longer (maybe Spring) and then use the cleaner and brightener for prep to remove mill glaze and any oxidation.
If you spray the stain, it will make a mess. Use stain pads or brushes. Tarp below as it will drip everywhere.
I used a cleaner and brightener to clean my newish deck boards (weathered about a year because I live in high humidity area and it took several months to dry out new boards). The boards looked great after cleaning, but then I had to wait to stain because of rain. After the boards dried again, I’ve noticed a lot of fine hairs sticking up from the wood and a few areas with larger splinters and cracks. Should I sand the rough areas now or just go ahead and stain? If I sand, do I need to start the cleaning process over again?
If you sand, just lightly hand sand off splinters. No power sanding. Blow off debris and then stain.
When I use the RAD cleaner and brightener, do I need to cover my windows an aluminum window trim?
Yes, that would be best to avoid a possible reaction, especially with the Brightener.
Hi. I live in Calgary, Alberta and we have fairly harsh Canadian winters. I have just moved into a new build home with a builder grade wood deck. The wood is semi rough.
I can wait until next Spring for staining, however am wondering if I should be water-sealing it before the cold weather arrives in 2-3 weeks, or just let the wet and cold take it’s toll?
The deck will be approx 6 weeks installed at that point.
Leave as is, no need to apply a clear sealer. Prep and stain in Spring.
Hi there,
I live in the PNW and just finished a cedar deck build. I can wait until next spring/summer to stain, but any suggestions on how to protect the deck from furniture marks in the meantime? We currently have a metal patio set that’s heavy – deck isn’t currently covered but it hopefully will be by the rainy season.
I could do an outdoor carpet but a bit worried about mould over the winter.
Outdoor carpet is your best option. Many are mildew-resistant.
3 more pics re: previous comment
Hey Scott,
Wow, your website is a tremendous resource. Thank you for creating it and answering so many questions!
I live in Atlanta, GA.
I started my new deck with treated 6×6 posts and floor joists July 2024 (10 months ago)
Added 6×6 treated posts for deck roof Nov. 28, ’24 (5 months)
Bought 5/4 treated decking Mar. 23, ’25 and let it dry outside for 3 weeks before installation.
(5 weeks total time outside)
My friend says I need to stain before installing the railing.
I did water drop test on decking. On half of the boards the water beads, the other half, not as much.
There are manufacturer ink spots on the decking which I will remove w/ 60-80 grit sandpaper,
as per your instruction.
The outer band boards of the roof are covered with pvc fascia all the way around.
Roof boards are 1/4” plywood(not treated). Roof joists and 3 roof beams are treated.
1. I believe I only need to stain the 6×6 posts, outer deck band, front cross member, and decking, but please let me know. Which parts of the deck need staining/sealing?
2. Do I need to clean and brighten the with “Restore-A-Deck”, or can I just go ahead and apply stain, since it’s all relatively new wood?
3. I would like to see the grain as much as possible, and not color the deck any more than necessary. Deck has a roof, so it gets no sun the first half of the day, and maybe 15% of deck gets sun the latter half of the day. I would like to use the same stain for all, and agree with your preference for semi-transparent stain, but I think the only one you recommend for less than 2 months weathering is Woodrich Timber Oil, or maybe Armstrong. Which one(s) do you recommend?
4. I don’t think I need to stain the plywood or roof joists, but please let me know what you think.
5. There are some unused screw holes in the outer rim. What is the best way to fill them?
6. I know I’m supposed to let the boards weather more after sanding, but I want to stain soon before humidity kicks in (May 15). Is that ok?
thank you for your help!
Martin
FYI, “My friend says I need to stain before installing the railing.” Is wrong.
You have lots of questions but the main issue is the ink stamps. Sand those now and then let all wood sit for 3 months. Clean and and brighten after, and then use a penetrating semi-transparent stain when ready.
1. I believe I only need to stain the 6×6 posts, outer deck band, front cross member, and decking, but please let me know. Which parts of the deck need staining/sealing?
-Ony stain exposed wood that is visible to you or the UV.
2. Do I need to clean and brighten the with “Restore-A-Deck”, or can I just go ahead and apply stain, since it’s all relatively new wood?
-MUST weather and prep. Do not skip this.
3. I would like to see the grain as much as possible, and not color the deck any more than necessary. Deck has a roof, so it gets no sun the first half of the day, and maybe 15% of deck gets sun the latter half of the day. I would like to use the same stain for all, and agree with your preference for semi-transparent stain, but I think the only one you recommend for less than 2 months weathering is Woodrich Timber Oil, or maybe Armstrong. Which one(s) do you recommend?
-TWP, AC stains or Restore-A-Deck.
4. I don’t think I need to stain the plywood or roof joists, but please let me know what you think.
-No need.
5. There are some unused screw holes in the outer rim. What is the best way to fill them?
6. I know I’m supposed to let the boards weather more after sanding, but I want to stain soon before humidity kicks in (May 15). Is that ok?
-Do not use a wood filler. Fillers do not work for exterior decking and will not “stain” to blend. You cannot stain now.
Hi Scott,
Preparing to stain our deck and had some questions for you. Our deck was installed last May and was not sanded at the time. There are some rough spots on the railing and board and some ink stamps I’d like to sand out. My plan is to sand these spots as lightly as possible and then wait for a bit more weathering and then clean, brighten and stain.
My question is how long should I wait after sanding given the deck is almost 1 year old and is there a concern that the deck will be over 12 months old when I finally clean, brighten and stain? I plan to use RAD and Armstrong Clark semi-trans. Should I still plan on only 1 coat? When should I plan to restain after the first coat.
Thanks! Your website has been a huge help!
About 4-6 weeks should be sufficient to wait. Since it has been a year, do the 2 coats applied wet on wet.
Great, thanks so much! One more question…should I plan to stain again in about 12 – 18 months as mentioned above even with the 2 coat wet on wet method?
Maybe, but most likley you will be okay for 2 years.
Thanks so much! Given the age of the deck and doing the wet on wet method, what tool(s) would you recommend using? I’ll be staining railings, 8′ wide stairs and the deck boards themselves.
I was thinking a brush for the edges along the house and a 14″ floor brush or pad for the deck boards and stairs. Could I use the same pad for the railings and floor or would a pad be better for railings and a brush better for the deck boards?
Yellow stain 14″ flooring brush for horizontals and padco stain pads for edging and railings:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/brushes-stain-pads-sprayers-and-tools/
Great info here. thank you Scott . New decking on top of old frame. Pressure treated Pine – 3 months prior to staining? same question for the Hoft wall? second question – i was told that darker stain lasts longer. Is this true? third question – spray, roll or brush the stain on? do you have a video link on best practice on actually applying the stain? Thank you!!
Yes, wait 3+ months and then prep for the staining for deck and wall. Look at TWP stains or Restore-A-Deck Stains. Darker and richer color stains can hold UV slightly longer than lighter tinted stains. As for how to apply, that varies based on the stain brand, but since you only apply 1 coat to new wood, it’s best to use stain pads and brushes. No rollers.
We do not have an application video but this may help, it is from a consumer on prepping and staining with Restore-A-Deck products.
https://youtu.be/8eQhrVbOp_4
Hi Scott, I have a new deck that is ready to be stained according to the water penetrating after a rain. I have Sherwin Williams Super Deck semi-transparent stain. These deck boards are stamped on the face side! Not real heavy lettering but it is there none the less. I cannot just sand those spots. It will stain differently. I am reading where sanding is a must on new wood to remove the glazing for better penetration, to sanding will seal the wood and cause shallow penetration. I hate to spend the time to sand, but I think I must because of the stamped wood. Also I hate looking at the mill marks. I am a woodworker and that is a big no no. What are your thoughts? I think this is pine boards and I should use 80 grit.
Thank you
When to stain new wood is not based on water penetration. See this for a more in-depth article:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
We would spot sand the ink stamps now, let the wood continue to weather (this will even out your spot sanding) over the Winter, clean and brighten for prep (do not sand for prep) in the Spring, and stain after.
Ink stamp tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/
Here is a picture. We have high traffic area on our deck.
Hello. We just got our deck built in April and was told to stain it in 4 months (which would have been August). It is now the the beginning of Sept, should we wait maybe until the spring? I worry about the wood is not dried out enough due to the rain. Also, I am still to use the wood cleaner and brightener first,correct? Then only one coat of deck stain.
You can do it now or in the Spring. Clean and brighten for prep. BTW, it looks you are scratching/denting your deck when moving stuf arround. That probably will not come out unless you sand it all evenely.
Building a new deck in Silverthorne, CO. The deck is between 3 and 6′ off the ground, so plenty of ventilation. We’ve decided on kiln dried redwood 2×6’s. This deck will get a lot of high mountain sun exposure and snow. I’d like to get it sealed before the snow hits, usually end of November. Assuming I get this installed by end of August, can I finish it by mid-November? Thanks.
Depends on the stain brand you end up using but it seems like a long shot as the temps will be an issue, not just the snow. Leaving to Spring would be better and will not harm the wood.
Is there a product you’d recommend? I understand your point, temps will be hitting freezing at night in the next few months.
I know this is a finish site, but do you have an opinion on the Camo side fastener system? I’d prefer to not top screw this.
Thank you!
If you do it in Novemeber, just plan on redoing it again in the Spring as any stain you apply will be premature with weathering and potentially too cold to apply. Sorry but no experience with the fasteners.
Thanks to your great info I was able to apply a first coat of Restore-a-deck semi-transparent stain to my stairs/deck last August. The wood was new and dry, so the final result was pretty great! You suggested to do another coat of stain 12 months later. I am getting ready for the second coat and wanted to know if I am supposed to do any special prep (strip, brighten, etc.) prior to applying the second coat or can I just pressure wash and apply the second coat?
For future maintenance, about how often should I plan to stain? Since I used restore-a-deck on new wood, can I just keep putting new coats on top of the old after pressure washing or will it need to be stripped eventually?
Could you post some pics in the comments for prep tips? Typically you need the RAD Cleaner and pressure washing for prep.
For future applications, you can just clean and recoat as needed.
Thanks for the clarification. Here are some pics. Is it okay to skip sections, like the vertical wood slats, if they look good or is it best to just do the whole deck/stairs again?
We would use the cleaner at 1/2 strength (2-3 oz. per gallon) and a light pressure washing for prep. The goal is to remove an dirt, etc. Apply one coat to all wood.
We have new-old decking, pressure treated pine at least 6 years old, which we removed to flip each board. The top was painted black and it was peeling (we removed the loose paint). Now we have the old underside facing up. Along with cleaning, I will be sanding to smooth because some boards are cupped. I will use a floor sander because I have done many interior hardwood floors with one in the past, so I have experience. Do you think I can use 36 or 40 grit, or would 60 be safer on the pine? Once it is sanded I plan to leave it for 3-4 months (very sunny location in northern Michigan), then clean and brighten, then stain with Restore-a-Deck water base formula. Is this stain a best option, or would you recommend another?
36-60 is good. Sanding tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
The rest is a good plan. Only one coat of stain.
Thank you! I read the how-to-sand page and it was helpful, as are all the pages here. Here are before and after pictures so far, before sanding.
No pics.
We have a large wood patio. I have stained all the post. Do I have to stain the Ceiling inside? The natral wood looks beautiful.
No, not unless you want to match the other wood.
Last spring we applied TWP 100 to treated pine decking that had been untreated for approximately 4 years. We did a light sanding to clean up then did a powerwash clean after a couple of weeks. It was perfect all summer and fall, but now that it has wintered, the stain has come off of the boards in spots that appear to have knots or a ‘harder’ grain in the areas that catch the most sun (shaded part still looks great). I will say that the stain did not seem to penetrate these areas as well when we initially stained…..but maybe didn’t penetrate at all. We sanded off Behr water base stain on cedar railings and posts then power washed same as decking and all the railing still looks great. I do not detect any peeling of any kind at this point. Is it OK to powerwash and recoat this spring? If OK, do we need to do 2 coats or just one? Do you think it will do the same thing every year in these areas that do not penetrate very well? Thanks for any direction you can give us.
Yes, you can clean and recoat. Just one coat should be sufficient.
Building a new deck in Northern California using doug fir 2×6 decking. The deck is at grade, so will have minimal ventilation underneath. Is there an advantage, in this situation, to use the penetrating oil stain on the underside as well to help fend off rot?
Also, I must say it feels wrong to let the deck get rained on for months before staining. Is there a penetrating oil stain that you would recommend after weathering for 1 month?
Thanks!
No advantage or need to stain the undersides and in fact, in many cases, it can create issues:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-undersides-of-deck-boards/
You cannot skip the weathering process and you are incorrect about it “feeling wrong” about waiting. It will not harm the wood and helps the staining process.
Thanks for the quick response! So, there’s no concern about cupping with a deck that has poor ventilation underneath? People say that the top of the deck board drying faster than the bottom creates this, and I was wondering if by using penetrating oil on the bottom it might help fend off some of that underdeck moisture?
No, it would not help and would feed mildew at some point. Only thing you can do is create as much airflow as possible to allow the underneath to dry out.
Here’s a photo, in case that helps.
Looks like plenty of ventilation, as long as you space between each board rather than butting them tightly. We just took up all of the deck boards at the house we bought last year, because they were not spaced, and refastened with a 1/4″ space. Much better breathing!
Yes. Spring of 2024.
Hi Scott,
Just had porch redone late June up in northern New Jersey so it’s been about 3 months. Constructed out of WeatherShield appearance grade pressure-treated board southern yellow pine lumber (Product/Purchase tags stapled on wood stated – “weathershield premium wood products awpa u1a uc4a mca reten std 0.15”)
The samples stains we are using is Benjamin Moore’s arborcoat waterborne exterior SOLID stain.
1) Is it necessary to sand/clean up in general the screw holes & other impurities before staining? If truly desired, how would I go about it – sanding?
2) Adding onto the last question their are places where the wood has yellow marks & cement dust. Is this a definite place where I would need to sand?
3) Adding even further to the last 2 questions, I did a stain & single paint color tests. For stains one being black & other maroon, lastly single paint test in maroon. How would I deal with cleaning this up, sand off the color? Especially before winter before it really soaks into the wood?
4) Unfortunately, the contractor left some old boards that had old paint on them – image included. In order to fix this critical error, can I just sand off the old paint and then stain?
5) Is there a specific way to protect / deal with the porch metal braces, & obviously don’t stain over them?
6) With the humidity reader set to yellow pine selection – it reads around 7% – 9%, so safely under the advised 15% marker. While doing a water drop test in several places & letting sit for 10 minutes, the water did not soak into the wood – images included (mind you this was done at 6pm). By this information is the porch ready to stain?
7) Since it’s fall, there’s going to be a lot of debris like leaves, falling onto the porch, I would like to get the porch stained in October or November before snowfall. Though perhaps overall I just need to wait till spring as the earliest to stain?
8) Lastly if I do ultimately need to wait until after winter, do I need to protect the porch with a tarp so the wood doesn’t become too weathered? Additionally, when spring does come around since the porch weathered for so long in the winter would the staining preparation process be different? Meaning, will I have to use a degreaser or borate to clean the porch first, or is it just a simple rinse before officially staining?
Wait until Spring to prep and stain. It is not ready yet. Do not tarp it. Leave it fully exposed.
-No need to sand anything. Clean and brighten for prep. You can sand off your stain marks now.
Hi Scott appreciate the response, help, & guidance,
Do you have a specific product you recommend to clean & brighten porch? Can provide a link to the purchase page.
Then lastly to go back to my previous question #4. As I look back, I didn’t supply the photo.
4) Unfortunately, the contractor left some old boards that had old paint on them – image included. In order to fix this critical error, can I just sand off the old paint and then stain?
(Image included this time)
Prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
Yes, you can sand it but it looks like a solid stain. That means it is difficult to remove and even more so due to the tight spaces.
Picture of my new wood deck relating to my comment/question
I have a new wood deck that was installed one year ago and not stained until 9/21/23. Two weeks prior the deck was pressure washed but not cleaned and brightened as you recommend. One coat of Flood pro series semi-transparent acrylic/oil stain was sprayed on. The application is very uneven darker in some areas and lighter in others. Should I have the contractor apply another spray coat and back roll or would you recommend another course of action? I am willing to wait until next year if that is best per your recommendation. I do not want peeling or make matters worse with the second coat now.
Do not add more now. It needs to be stripped and brightened to fix. You can do this in the Spring.
Pictures from my above comment. Thanks!
Great article, great I found it before staining.
I have a NEW brand deck at a new home in Charlotte NC location (Hot weather, with unusual rains this year ’23), looks like made of Pine threated wood. Built in Feb ’23.
Now looking to have it stained for the first time. I have done the prep with Valspar all in one wood prep. But stopped trying to figure it out if I should cover the screws heads with wood filler to create a neat look? That’s my first question.
Wood looks and feel kind of smooth still, very few screws look like have moved from straight to slightly inclined position, that’s what most concerns me. I am ready to Staining it, should I do it now? that’s my second question.
We most probably continue to have good conditions through October from there I should have to wait until March ’24, But that will be more than 12 months from the time it was built. The Builder emphasized to have it stained ASAP.
Last one, got Valspar stain and sealer for exteriors, I saw your review about this product :( what should I use instead to secure a long life of service? Pictures attached taken today.
Thank you very much!
No, never use wood filler on a deck. It doesn’t work. You are okay to stain now. Return the Valspar stain, it not good.
Any of the top brands we suggest are much better.
I have a home in Bend, Oregon (dry high Oregon desert). We installed a new deck in April 2022 which the contractor immediately stained when it was finished. Attached is the picture of what it looks like today 18mo later. Sure looks different! Another contractor said it needs to now be sanded down before it is re-stained. I plan to do the work this week. After watching your video, can I just use deck cleaner and then a brighter before I stain? I’d rather not sand it down. What process do you suggest? Also, what brand stain works best for the high Oregon desert? Thanks much for your advice.
Strip (not cleaner) and brighten while pressure washing for prep. Use Restore A Deck Kits.
My deck is being built as we speak. It is the middle of August. I live in Portland Oregon. It pretty much rains all winter starting in October so I could possibly have only 1 1/2 – 2 months before it’s going to be wet outside until next spring. Should I let my wood “weather” only 1 1/2 months of guaranteed dry weather before I stain it or should I let it get wet all winter and stain it in the spring? We usually do get some snow at least once in the winter. Will the wood be ruined if unprotected until next spring?
Do it in the Spring. It will be fine.
It’s doubtful I’ll buy this online. Is there a TWP dealer in the Portland, Oregon area?
No idea. Best to ask TWP directly.
Which solid stain would you recommend between Defy extreme or Flood for vertical railings on 8 month pt wood? We need a solid stain for railing to match our house trim. I will need a tintable stain to go with the white trim. The RAD was way too white. We are using TWP 100 on the floor. We are in northwest ga.
Also, how do you get one of these stains tinted if it’s not available at local stores? And can I get a sample in the tinted colors?
Thank you for all your help!!
Use the Defy Solid stain. https://www.deckstain.com/defy-solid-color-wood-stain-tintable-5-gallon.html
How does a Cabot semi-solid stain rate in humid South Carolina low country; is there a risk for mold and mildew growth — the porch is shaded, and the wood appears to be oak tongue and groove. Kindly advise, thank you.
All Cabot stains are poor since they sold the company years ago. We would not use or suggest any of them.
I have a deck that’s about four years old. I was told I could use a specific paint from a local paint store. Instead, it has peeled horribly on the rails and the floors? I’ve been told to replace the boards and slash told to scape and paint. What is the easiest way to fix this? I plan on staining it after whatever fixes I need to do.
Post some pics so we can offer prep advice.
Here you go!
Strip off the floors and tops of the rails.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Do a two-toned deck after.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Hi Scott, We repaired/replaced our 30 year old redwood deck one month ago, with beautiful new redwood. We will let it weather for 3-4 months and treat before painting the entire building. We are in Northern California, get lots of direct sun; it’s an entry deck for a small condo complex so gets a lot of use. Previously the deck would become slippery when it rained. Is there a treatment for the new deck that will not result in a slippery surface when wet? (Sorry I don’t know what product was used previously).
Thanks!
Penetrating stains will make the surface slippery: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
If you have a deck that surrounds a semi inground pool is it better to use oil based or water based stain?
Does not matter.
Wow thank you for this answer. I have been getting mixed answers on this. One has said because of the chlorine and high level activity in this area it should be oil based and another said water based only if sanded. Since this is a brand new deck and sat for 12 months I wanted to just do water based so thanks for confirming this answer!
Neither water or oil based will be immune to Chlorine degradation so that is what it doesn’t matter. The Chlorine will harm all stains eventually.
We are planning on having our deck done early April, when is the best time to start doing stain?
The article above explains weathering and prep for new wood. Thanks
Any stain requires the wood to be DRY before application to obtain maximum results. In many areas of the country just coming out of wet winter, the moisture content of the wood will be in the double digits, guaranteeing bad results
Hello! We’re in the middle of a laundry/mudroom/garage addition and there will be a small cedar deck leading to the backyard. We’re in northern Illinois so winter has just begun. From what I’ve been reading we should wait at least 3 months before staining the cedar — is it okay to build the deck now, leaving the wood unstained over the winter?
Yes. Prep and stain in Spring.
hello, So need help.
I’m trying to figure out how to stain these stairs so they look more gray like A natural ipe or teak would look as it grays out. Any suggestions of stains colors etc…
Try a semi-transparent gray from Armstrong Clark Stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hello – I have a couple questions regarding a new rooftop deck.
Location, Chicago IL.
Deck Installed, May 2022
Rooftop deck, direct exposure to rain and sun
Wood type: Souther Yellow Pine / Drying method: KDAL
Treated: Fire Retardant Pressure Treated lumber (brand: FX Lumber Guard XT)
Questions:
**See attach pictures.
Thanks in advance,
Rodrigo
1. No.
2. Yes, you need to stain and protect the exposed wood.
3. No.
4. TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
5. 50-90
6. Same
7. Varies on the stain brand and type of stain.
8. Varies on the stain brand and type of stain.
9. Varies on the stain brand and type of stain.
10. 3-12 months but varies on the stain brand and type of stain.
Hi, We have a new deck “Yellow Wood” Pressure treated and I was wondering when I can stain with a Semi-Transparent stain. The builder said wait 2 months which put us into late October / Early November in the Midwest. I was just told by a paint company to wait at least 6 months (even thru winter) and then stain in the spring instead of late October? Any thoughts?
Thanks
Wait until Spring to prep and stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I have a new redwood deck that I’d like to stain before winter and have read so many conflicting things about sanding/staining, some say sanding opens pores others say it closes them!? As of now I’ve just cleaned it with oxiclean but there are chalk/paint like marks on some of the boards that washing did not remove I’m not sure if I should sand to get them off… Also I did sand just my top railing cap before installing it so it wouldn’t cause any splinters is this going to be an issue? I’m planning on using Ready Seal semi transparent stain. Thx!
We are not fans of sanding as it can lead to issues: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-sanding-a-deck-can-be-an-issue/
Also, the Ready Seal is not your best option.
Ok, so since I have already sanded the railing do you have a suggestion? And do you have an alternative for how I may get the marks that came on the wood off?
Also why is ready seal not a good option? I used it on my fences a few years ago and it was super easy to apply and they still look great…
Ready Seal has issues with rub off and premature fading: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
If you have ink stamps you will need to sand them off: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/
Do it now and then leave the wood until spring for final prep and stain.
what semi transparent (I want to see some grain) oil based stain would you recommend? I’d like one that has the easiest prepwork for reapplication? Also I live in CA
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Hi Scott. We had a redwood deck built last fall in Lake Tahoe. TWP stain, dark oak, was applied in 15 degree weather after 6 weeks install, to protect wood from winter snow. At snow melt, brand new deck was very blotchy, seems stain penetrated very unevenly. Contracter sanded and powerwashed. Deck is almost free of stain but lots of little circular squiggles. Please advise on steps to get the deck to look nice again! THANK YOU!
They did not follow the directions for new wood and TWP. https://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
You should remove all and start over. Strip and brighten for prep: https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
What is your opinion on Cabot Gold stain for new wood? Our new deck was installed 2 months ago, and we are slowly getting the mold spores/graying out of the wood & allowing it to weather.
thank you.
We stopped using any Cabot products ever since they sold the company and they ruined the high-quality products they used to have by changing the formulas.
I have a new cedar deck. I thought the builder used extremely rough wood for the rails and posts, so I sanded all the rails and posts with 120 sandpaper using a random orbital sander. Now they look great but are not porous. Was that a big mistake? I still have not stained and sealed the deck. How long should I wait to do so and what steps should I take in preparation to stain and seal it? Thanks!
Just wait the 3-4 months or longer and then prep and stain. Thanks
We have a new redwood deck. We were actually told to do a sanding with 80 grit to open up the wood. If we apply a clear oil sealer, will the wood still weather to a soft grey? Should we wait more than 3 months to seal if we want to seal it at the grey stage?
Sanding closes the wood grain, it does not open it up. Wait, prep, then seal.
I decided to ask as I don’t see this question answered and I want to do the right thing. New cedar KD deck. We live in Maine and have snow or melting snow/slush on our deck sometimes for a couple of months (you never know). We are south facing, big deck, on a hillside above a tidal river. So, I think water damage is our biggest threat. Love the natural cedar color. Thank you.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-deck/
What are these black marks? They look like something is bleeding out in the wood? This is brand-new, Kiln dried western red cedar, 1×6 railing tops and also split 2x4s. These black marks emerged within about a week of having been constructed. I am planning to wait 6-8 weeks, use the RAD clean/brighten system, and then stain with Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent. Railing only, no decking. But now I see these black marks. Not sure what they are and what I’m going to need to do about them. Thanks!
It could be mildew or rust spots. Cleaner should help remove if mildew. The Brightener will remove rust spots.
On further research I think it’s rust spots. They were grinding the galvanized mesh to cut the ends. Do you think it matters if I do it ASAP or wait a month or so until I stain? And could I do it now and then again in a month? I’ve heard rust spots come back… trying not to cry or scream. I wanted a natural and beautiful railing. Wondering if I made a big mistake. Finally, what happens if it keeps coming back? Can I apply stain over the rust? Will it just be ugly, or prevent the stain from doing its job? Gaming out my worst case scenario. Thanks.
It does not matter when you do it. They will go away with the prep (brightener) and not come back.
I have a new deck of pressure treated pine, and there are some green stains around the knots as a result of the treatment . How should I handle these when it comes to staining the deck? Should I let the deck weather and hope the green stains disappear? Sand them off at the risk of removing the treatment? Hope that the stain will conceal them?
Thanks so much!
There is nothing you can do about this permanently. Just prep and stain after the wood weathers. You can stain over it.
I have an eastern facing pressure treated pine deck that was installed summer 2021. With a tree line bordering my yard I have mold issues where my deck is located. I am looking at using either Armstrong Clark semi-transparent, or TWP 100 series. I live in Michigan so I can get either stain. Which stain would offer the most protection against mold and be the easiest to apply, maintain and re-apply? Thank you.
They both last about the same and can be cleaned and reapplied as needed. We like them both.
I have a new pressure treated pine deck that was completed mid January in New Hampshire. Do the general wait times still hold for cold and snowy winter months, or does the wood need 3-4 hot summer months prior to staining? In others words, should the deck be ready to stain now in mid May if it was competed 4 months ago in the winter?
Thanks!
Winter months count so you can stain now or soon.
Awesome! And followup- for this new deck’s very first stain is there a benefit to using oil based over water based? It’s in full southern facing sun and gets a ton of dog traffic. Was think about using Defy Extreme unless there’s a benefit otherwise regarding durability and longevity. Is either appropriate even for the very first stain? Thanks!
Both oil and water-based will work as long as you are using a top brand. Defy Extreme is a great stain.
Would like to stain new “heart” redwood deck as soon as advisable.
Was getting ready to use Behr highest rated stain after prepping with their products suggested. To me a stain should “stain” the wood and not crack and or peel. Looking like kitchen cabinets look. I stained them with dipping small piece of cloth in stain for cabinets and then just rubbing it on the cabinets. I’d like to stain the deck not paint it. Fought the old deck peeling for 20+ years. Can this be done?
Here’s my info:
1. Northern CA.
2. East-facing, morning sun and in summer, hot 95+degrees for 6-7 hours in afternoon.
3. New “heart” redwood built 4 weeks ago.
4. No Mold or Mildew Issues
5. Main Issues with Previous Stains. Stains were more like paint.
6. Other: Parts of this deck are relatively heavily trafficked. In addition, the deck in the summer has pool water get on it from swimmers going to and from pool.
7.Had a little rain last week and deck was beautiful with the rain on it.
8.Any other info helpful please ask.
Thanks
Behr is garbage, don’t use it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
You cannot use an interior stain. You want a penetrating deck stain. Try Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series after the wait and prep.
BTW, it looks like your nails are rusting and someone used the wrong ones. You need stainless steel or galvanized.
Looking to buy TWP semi solid stain as close to natural as possible need high uv protect for Florida as per your rec from yesterday if uv gose up with color the lightest best uv is what I need no local dist in my town what about on line need 5 gal min
Test some samples from the TWP site: https://www.twpstain.com/stain-samples
I have a fresh cedar balcony floor. Our contractor is holding off on put in the aluminum railings on balcony until after I stain. He recommended Penofin Stain & Seal. He said I don’t have to wait for curing time. BUT- the 3-recommended stains for new wood on your website have curing times. If the woods moisture reading is below 15 or 20%, do I still have to wait the recommended curing months? Should I have him install the aluminum balcony railings now or wait months until I can stain? You do not recommend Semi-transparent stain for first coat, why is that? What is your stain recommendation for Texas, full sun, no shade, southern exposure, on new cedar wood. Thanks in advance for your reply.
You have to wait, prep, and then stain so have him install the rails. Our article does not state you cannot use a semi-transparent stain for the first coat. Try Restore A Deck Stain or TWP Stains after the wait and prep.
Pressure treated wood deck completed 12/20
Now ready to stain
Rubber doormat and stair treads used since 4/21
Stain suggestions?
Will Armstrong Clark semisolid not penetrate all areas because mats and treads were used?
It should be fine as long as you prep correctly.
What is the best sealer for a Cumaru deck next to a salt water pool? What is the downside to stealing it upon installation, and then again in 3 months? Essentially not waiting for the weathering break in period you are noting in the posts
You cannot prestain as it will not take. Follow the directions in the above article for new wood.
As for which stain to use, see this about hardwoods: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Is there any special consideration that the Cumaru is directly next to a salt water pool? It seems weird that I would put bare wood there for 3 months, especially the end grain, as I need to cut them all with a slight curve.
No, nothing special or more you can do.
I live is southern California and recently installed a new redwood deck. It is in the shade for half of the year and has direct sunlight for part of the day for most of the summer. What stain would you recommend for keeping that redwood look without turning the light parts of the wood yellow. We love the look of the wood we used for the step in the picture. Thanks and love the website
What you want to do is not possible. You must have color/stain in the deck stain for UV protection and that means it will enhance the natural grain of your wood. The lightest colors will be golden and that means your lighter parts of your wood will be enhanced golden/yellow. A clear sealer (no tint at all) will not proved UV protection and will gray naturally in months.
What stain would you recommend for Southern California? Not much rain. Have you tried Nova Exo Shield? I found they have light colored and clear stains with UV protection and was wondering if they are any good.
No such thing as a true clear with UV protection. Just not possible. Sometimes they say clear when in fact it is tinted lightly. Try the Armstrong Clark Stains or TWP 1500 Series.
Hello, in GA and we have a new treated pine deck that was installed 5 months ago. Next to a salt water pool so wondering what stain is best? We like the wood grain look but are open to all options (transparent, solids, semi), whichever is best at protecting the wood and preventing cracks.
Also, do all cleaning and brightening agents require one to use a pressure wash equipment? Can it be manual? Thank you!
Use a pressure washer while using the prep products for best results. Try Restore A Deck Stains or TWP 100 Series.
I plan to stain Pressure treated kiln-dried boards before installing. Any guidance on products or timing?
You should weather and prep after installation, even for kiln-dried.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-deck/
1. Washington, DC
2. Southern-facing, parts of the deck get full sun, other parts are fully shaded by a large tree
3. New PT pine (installation completed Jan 2022)
4. No Mold or Mildew Issues
5. Main Issues with Previous Stains: N/A
6. Other: Parts of this deck are relatively heavily trafficked. In addition, the deck will have multiple large/heavy planters and therefore I’m looking to prioritize durability and minimize the frequency of restaining due to the very significant effort involved in clearing the deck for work.
I’ve spent time reviewing your FAQs and videos, including the “how long to wait…” video but still struggling with how to proceed. Based on the requirements above, it would seem that a semi-solid stain would be the best option. However, if I understand correctly, you don’t recommend applying a semi-solid stain on new wood floor decking for at least 12 months after installation. So are my best options in preferred order to:
1) Wait a year and use Armstrong-Clark Semi-Solid, 1 coat.
2) Wait 3-4 months and use one of the darker A-C Semi-Transparent colors (e.g., Chestnut; Rustic Brown; Sierra Redwood; Mahogany; Black Walnut), 1 coat.
3) Wait 3-4 months and use Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Dark Walnut (seems like the darkest by far), 1 coat.
4) Wait 3-4 months and use TWP 1500 Semi-Transparent (Black Walnut; Dark Oak; Redwood; Cedartone), 1 coat.
Regardless of which option I go with I’ll of course follow your guidance to prep with RAD 2-stage cleaner/brightener.
Thanks for any additional guidance.
All of your options are correct. Really comes down to what you want to do and which of those brands appeal to you the most. They are all good.
My wife and I are in the process of remodeling a cabin in Flagstaff, AZ. The contractor finished the redwood deck approximately 5 weeks go but it has not been stained. There has already been 1 snowfall and the daytime temperatures over the next 2 weeks are expected to run from the high 30s to the mid 40s. Are there significant risks to waiting until the spring to apply the stain? Also does the elevation (approximately 7000’) impact the choice of stain”
No risk and you have to wait, prep, and then stain in spring.
Thank you! What stain or deck oil do you recommend for a redwood deck that will be exposed to snow during the winter months?
Try Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains. Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
Had a platform built for a hot tub coming in the next few weeks. The platform has been done for about 2 weeks. The they redid our deck. I’m fine with waiting to stain the deck but once the hot tub is in place and filled we won’t be able to move it. It’s huge. Any thoughts on what to do with the platform?
No need to stain under the hot tub.
I am planning on replacing the old deck wood over an abandoned swimming pool in Phoenix Arizona. Not much rain but as intense of sun as it gets. I was planning on using Douglas Fir, same as what is used for 2×6 studs. I contacted Cabot and they stated that type of wood accepts stains well without weathering and they suggested a test to see if water would readily penetrate it and stated if it did then it was OK to apply immediately. I like this so that I can apply on all six sides before installation.
If heard a lot of pros and cons about Cabot. Some love it and some hate it. I called the Cabot company and it appears that they offer a true oil based stain as well as a “modified” oil based stain( OVC compliant). One cleans up with mineral sprits and one with soap and water. It appears that the oil based stains are only in smaller markets (meaning not big cities). I discovered that I could buy the real oil based Cabot Australian Timber oil semi-solid stain by purchasing in a nearby county (it is not sold in the Phoenix area).
What is your take on the above? I want good results and this gets full sun nearly all day. As I said, not much rain here, 6-8 inches annually but several feet of hot sun. I expect to have to recoat in a few years but don’t want a disaster. Your input appreciated.
We are not fans of Cabot stains. used to be great until they sold to Valspar and they ruined the formulas. No need to stain all sides BTW. Just the exposed wood after install, weathering, and prep.
Help? Very frustrated and I am holding up the contractor. We have a beautiful new pressure treated pine deck. It was built in July. For weeks, I’ve been looking for a stain that I like and we would go top of the line. The contractor uses Behr (open to others). I’ve had help at the store adjusting Behr color pigments and have tried 13 samples. No luck ugh. Art is a hobby so I am sensitive to colors. The yellow in the wood is an issue and I’ve used a color wheel and research to try to figure out how to compensate. In Northern Va, it is very warm for the next couple of weeks. 1- What should we do? Can the contractor use a waterproof sealer only for now and then stain in the Spring? Deck is large and gets sun. 2- Any quick advice or stain recommendations are appreciate. 3- Does a stain with gray hue help lessen the yellow? We don’t want solid but semitransparent and was hoping for an earthy, light brown or brownish gray. Feel free to email me. Photo of deck below. Thank you!
1. No, do not seal it. you can wait until Spring to prep and stain if needed.
2. Use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
3. No. Colors will vary based on wood type and age and your wood has a yellowish internal color to it so it is not possible to get a light brown with a semi-trans.
Should you prime deck boards before using Defy solid stain
No, never prime before using a solid stain.
I installed a new pressure treated pine (YWood) in May, 2021. The deck was built over a brand new poured-concrete patio. I planned to seal (no stain) the decking, stairs, support posts, and exposed framing for the first time this fall. Will any of the chemicals you recommended for prep and sealing new decks damage/stain new concrete or painted brick? I’ll try to cover everything as best I can but something’s bound to splash or drip onto the concrete. I’m in Western Kentucky. Great website. Very informative. Thanks!
You must use a tinted stain if you want to prevent UV graying. A clear sealer will gray naturally.
Use Restore A Deck for prep and the stain.
Any chance either product will harm new concrete or painted brick?
You cannot get stain on the concrete or brick, It must be covered to prevent drips.
why is it bad to get stain on concrete or brick please ?
It will not come out well on bricks or concrete or at all.
I put in a pressure-treated deck in late July. Should I wait until spring to stain or can I do it in November?
Either way is fine.
what would be the best stain and sealer for new cedar, I live in Houston, TX
Any of the brands mentioned in the article above.
I’m prepping a new deck (just about twelve months old) for staining. I waited this long as I was planning to use a semi-solid, but now feel a semi- transparent would be a better long-term maintenance choice. I have completed the standard bleach-and-water and power washer prep and have filled a few small spots with wood filler. While everything is now drying, general appearance suggests that I have not prepared optimally; the ring stains left behind by my wife’s tomato plants really reinforce this.
I had planned to use a Cabot semi-solid, but now feel that either TWP 100 or Restore-A-Deck semi-trans would be much better choices. While neither might be immediately available, I’d be willing to postpone staining in order to use the best stain.
Any advice here regarding deck preparation, choice of stain or timing of application? I’d really welcome your advice.
Thank you for your help!
You should have not used wood filler. It does not work on decks and will not “stain” to blend.
You should reclean and brighten the wood as you have not removed all the oxidation evenly. Use a penetrating stain like the TWP or RAD, not the Cabot. That applies like paint.
The deck wood has aged almost twelve months. At this point, would two coats of TWP semi-trans be necessary, or would one coat suffice?
Regarding the Cape Cod Gray (TWP) and the Cottage Gray (RAD): I’d love to use either on a deck, but I’m concerned that they would start to look dirty or just not look quite right soon after applying either. Do you have any field experience with these colors on decks, or are they strictly a fence and lattice color?
Again, thank you!
Two coats. The grays work just like the other colors for a deck. No issues.
I have a new 16×20 pressure treated pine deck in Alabama which was just completed. Plan for stain at least 3 months from now (gets a lot of direct sunlight)…. after reading your website (which is fantastic!) I am concerned about my stain choice coming up. I have a smaller deck on the other side of the house that I used Cabot Australian Timber Oil – Honey Teak on about 4 months ago and we love the look of it (did it about 6 months after it was built). Seems like you’re a bigger fan of the TWP 100. Given the size of my new deck I want to get this right and make maintenance as easy as possible… and it seems like maintenance is easier with TWP 100..? We had planned to use Cabot again to match the other deck but given the time and money invested in this large deck I want to use the best product (for look, wood preserving, and maintenance) regardless.. we’re okay if the match isn’t perfect if it saves headaches every 2-3 years. I guess I am saying should I use Cabot Timber Oil to match or switch to TWP 100 Thanks for this awesome website!
Use the TWP 100 Series. Honeytone 115 is the closest in color. Make sure to prep first.
Will do. Thanks! After reading more on this site it looks like my deck is all KDAT wood..
1. so 1-2 months weathering process right? Lots of rain currently, not sure if this is hurting it
2. This puts me late Nov or December.. should I wait until spring or go ahead and do it? I don’t want to ruin the wood waiting another 4 months.
Live is Alabama so not exactly the coldest of winters.
Thanks for all the great information and answering all of our questions! Great site
1. Yes.
2. November is okay.
I had a new covered deck built in May. The steps and 4×4 posts are ready to seal but the rest of the deck still beads water. Should I seal steps and posts now or wait till rest of deck is ready?
Wait until next Spring to prep and stain.
Hi, we have a new cedar fence that has aged 3 months. We share the fence with a neighbor and want to stain our side. If we use a sprayer will it run between boards to their side of the fence? Would we be better off with a brush?
It will bleed through to the other side no matter how you apply.
Do you need to also seal a new deck after staining; I am cleaning it with the Restore a Deck product and then staining it with Restore a Deck. Do I also need to purchase a sealer. This is a new deck which has been weathered for about 5 months.
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain, it will peel.
Thank you
Do I need to seal it at all, before it is stained. If so, is there a certain sealer which is recommended with Restore a deck products as I didn’t find one on their site.
You cannot ever seal before or after a deck stain.
Hi, I’m glad I found a place where I can ask a pro about exterior staining. I’m re-doing my old deck and I’m planning to replace the floor with PVC boards for longevity and easy maintenance, but the railing will be done with wooden posts, wire cable and same color PVC board on top. I really like the light grey look of sunbleached wood and I would really like to stain my wood railing posts and the “drink rail”-supporting 2×4 to make it look like it came from a beach boardwalk. The posts will be new and treated, so there might be some green tint on them. I understand that I will need to leave them to dry for a few months, so I won’t stain until spring. Do you have any tips how I can achieve that natural grey weathered look? Thank you in advance!
Try Restore A Deck Stains in gray or Armstrong Clark in Driftwood gray.
We have a brand new deck made with UN-treated cedar. How long is the waiting period to seal and stain a deck that has NOT been pressure treated or does it need to be sealed asap? Also, do you recommend an oil based semi-transparent sealer/stain and if so, which brand/type do you recommend? The deck is on oceanfront property on an island in the Puget Sound in Washington State and the deck is approx 1500 sq ft. Thank you!
Same. 3+ months and prep. Try TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark after.
I replaced four boards on my old deck with pressure treated lumber and did the water bead test. The old wood unserved the water but new wood beaded. I wanted to seal and stain the whole deck (12’ x 14’) before winter. It’s now September 12. I watched a YouTube video and in it they said there is a formula to treat the new wood to be able to seal and stain it much earlier. Are you familiar with this procedure and does it work? What should I use?
No, it is not possible to speed up the weathering process. If you do it now, those 4 boards will have to be redone next Spring.
Hi – I have a new wood cedar deck that has been weathering for about 8 months. I plan on using Restore-A-Deck semi transparent stain for the deck floor and Defy Extreme Solid stain for the railing and posts so I can custom color match the stain to my house trim. Is it okay to clean and brighten the railings and posts with the RAD cleaner and brightener even though I will be using Defy stain on them? Also, for the pressure washer what tip should I use so I do not damage the wood? Thanks so much!
Yes, that will be fine. Ese the green or white top and wash so the tip is 6-12 inches away from the wood.
Thanks for the reply! The area I am staining with the RAD is 290 sq ft. Will 2 gallons be enough to cover it with one coat? How long does product last if I have left over product opened or unopened? Thanks again!
Yes, 2 gallons should work. Shelf life is a few years if unopened. 12 months if opened.
Thank you!
Last question…I hope! If after cleaning and brightening my deck it rains before I stain it, is it necessary to clean and brighten again? Thanks again for all your help, it’s appreciated!
No need to prep again, just wait for wood to dry for 48 hours.
I’m a bit confused as to how long I need to wait after cleaning and prepping my deck until I can stain. I am using Defy solid stain for railings and RAD semi-transparent for the deck floor. Both products say they can be applied the same day as cleaning and prepping, but I have seen on your site somewhere that deck needs to be bone dry before applying a solid stain. How long after clean & prep do I have to wait before applying solid stain? RAD can be applied to damp wood correct? Thanks!
48 hours after prep for the solid stain and the RAD can be applied same day as the prep.
My deck is cleaned and prepped and now working around weather to get it stained. I think these are my final questions…
Thank you so much for this site and all your answers to my many questions!!!
1. The RAD Stains can be applied to damp or dry decks. Defy is dry.
2. Yes.
3. Same day. Second goes on after first coat dries.
4. 6 Hours for the cleaner. Does not matter with brightener.
5. Couple of weeks.
Thanks! For the brightener & cleaner, I meant how long does the leftover dry material last once the bags have been opened?
If in powder form, it can last a few years.
Do you have to weather Douglas Fir Plywood Sheathing? Or can you stain it immediately? Are there any special staining instructions for Plywood sheathing since we aren’t using traditional deck planks? We live by the coast.
If smooth wood you will need to weather and prep just as the article above explains. Any quality deck stain should work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
I just installed a tongue and groove covered front porch with African tally wood two weeks ago. There are a few inconsistencies With the thickness So I’m having a floor refinisher go over it with a flooring sander this week. I’m not familiar with this wood And can find very little information on it, it is similar to ipe But I would say it’s not quite as hard. I’m thinking of using the Armstrong Clark Or the defy product Labeld for exotic hardwoods. The porch gets morning sun and I’m in South Carolina so high humidity Will be a factor. Anything I missing here? Is there another product I should be looking at? How long after sanding do I need to wait to apply product? Thank you!
You need to with and prep after the sanding. 3-4 months and then clean and brighten the wood. One coat of the stain. AC or Defy Hardwood would work well.
What is the optimal recommended clean and prep product for exotic hardwood?
Use the Restore A Deck prep products.
Just had new redwood deck installed around driveway leading to house entrance. Live in San Francisco Bay area, lots of fog/moisture in the am and direct sun in afternoon. Trying to decide between water and oil based. I read your article, but still confused. Thanks for your assistance!
Make sure to weather and prep. Do you have mildew issues?
We did have some mildew issues on one side, that is located under redwood trees. Does that have a bearing on oil or water based?
Water-based does better with mildew prevention. That would be Restore a Deck Stains or Defy Extreme.
Hi, thanks for the advice on here. Really helped in my education!
I’ve recently bought Iroko hardwood with some oil. However, i didn’t get a chance to oil it before then rain hit the decking! And now i’ve got rain damage. :(
Not sure what to do next so have some questions please.
1/ Is the hardwood ruined?
2/ Should I oil them now to prevent further damage?
2/ Should I lay the decking and then oil them? 3/ How do I remove the obvious rain damage?
Thanks in advance!
1. You can try and clean and brighten it but it may not come out. If that does not work then you can try sanding.
2. Prep to remove first before you oil.
3. You have to weather and prep before staining.
Thank you!
When you say ‘clean and brighten’ what should i use?
And can I ask what you mean by ‘weather and prep’?
Weathering is explained in the above article. Use the RAD products to prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
I bought RAD and I’m getting ready to put cleaner/ brighter on. It’s over 90% humidity in AL right now. Should I wait? I was going to do cleaning/ brightening today and then if weather looks ok tomorrow or next weekend stain. Is it bad if it rains on cleaner/ brightener?
It is fine to do it now.
Is there any stain that can be applied to new wood? I have an old deck that I have power washed and I am replacing some wood that has rotted… I need a stain that can go on the older wood and any wood that has been used for replacement. Is there any stain that exist for this application? Gulf Synthetics DeckRevive says it can do it, but no one else can??? Seems fishy to me….. any advice would great as you guys seem to be a non-bias expert.
Gulf cannot be applied to new wood. No stain can that we know of.
We just completed construction of a new redwood deck and are leaning towards letting it go to a natural gray finish rather than staining. Of course we still want to treat/seal the wood for longevity, and do proper cleaning/brightening prep beforehand as indicated on this site.
My questions:
Thanks so much.
Wait, prep, and then seal with a clear sealer. Try Defy Extreme Clear.
We have just purchased freshly sawn, vertical gain, incense cedar 2×6 deck boards that were planed and then sanded. It was our intention to oil stain with semi-transparent oil based deck stain on all sides of the boards prior to installation. We live within a mile of the ocean and it rains (hopefully) quite a bit here in the PNW and our intention is to use (Sikken) or now, PDG oil based, tinted semi-transparent stain/sealer. This wood hss 12 to16% moisture content. Not wanting to wait for weathering, what other tips might be helpful?
You cannot pretreat and only need to stain the exposed side(s) after install, weather, and prep. We also would not suggest the PPG/Sikkens. Much better products out there now: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have an old deck made from presuretreated 2X6 . I plan on removing the boards, planing off 1/4inch, route a round edge (will make them 5/4 deck boards) and putting back down. The surface will be smooth, old and dry, but with a mill glaze I guess.I want to use TWP Semi-Solid Pro-Series stain. Do I consider the boards as “new” or can I get right on the staining?
Hard to say until you are done. Post some pictures after.
I have a new wood deck that was power washed and then stained 3 months after installation. The wood has what appears to be “etched” stains on it as if it were dirty/muddy. The stainer used a combination product from Home Depot of stain and sealer. I attached pic of deck. Any suggestions as to what these “spots” are and how they can be removed? Thank you.
Not sure what it is but you cannot get this out as it is internal. It does not look like a sealer but a solid stain. Maybe recoat those areas will fix it?
We have a decking/railing on the Louisiana coast – brand new wood – treated – 6+ months old. Leaning toward Cabot Australian Timber or Olympic oil base stains. What do you recommend? This will be our 3rd attempt in 6 years to get it right, with the brand new wood.
Not Cabot or Olympic. Use TWP 100 Series or Restore A deck stains. Make sure to prep wood first.
Wow! Thanks for the quick reply! Two more questions please:
Thank you,
The 1500 lasts the same as the 100 series. Both brands would last about 2-3 years after the initial first coat is reapplied in the second year.
I have stained my deck and have some overlaps. Everything I read online says to soak a rag in mineral spirits and rub out the overlaps. Would this method work with a water based stain as well.
Mineral spirits will not remove overlap lines. The only way to fix is to remove all and start over.
Hello ~ I live in the Chicagoland area. I just had some new fencing put in and a sun screen. Wood is of course new and rough sawn. The wood is about 3 months old now. What do you recommend for a semi-transparent stain on this? Can I use a paint sprayer? What kind of brush do I need? Thank you very much,
Cyndie
Use the Restore A Deck Wood Stains or Armstrong Clark stains. Make sure to clean and brighen first, especially the deck floor.
Hi – the deck is being replaced. This is only for the fence and sun shield.
Okay.
Hello- this cedar deck was just installed. Is this a scenario where we will need to weather for 3+ months rather than sand prior to staining? Is the sealing process step two post stain? Tysm!
You have to weather and prep this. You do not seal over a deck stain and that would create peeling issues. Deck stains are sealers as well.
How to clean and stain a deck that was repaired and has a combination of old and new spindles and old planks?
Post some pictures.
I had a contractor install a small new redwood deck and a new gate. They chose to use miniwax stain (a non-exterior oil-based stain). And it occurred to me that they clearly didn’t know what they were doing.
This was about 3 months ago. The deck is starting to look pretty bad, it has a strange inconsistent faded color from occasional wetness and looks rather dry. Part of the gate is starting to lift up from dryness. I’m not sure what the best steps are from here. I live in Southern California.
I want to apply a new oil-based semi-transparent stain and provide some protection to the wood. Is there reason to wait further? Should I just sand the wood down a little now and leave it exposed and then wait a few months?
Remove it by sanding, then clean and brighten for prep and stain with one coat of exterior deck stain. Looks at TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Any particular reason you’d recommend TWP 1500 Vs TWP 100? Where I’m located rain/cold isn’t as much of an issue as the heat/sun.
I’ve read from the TWP website that they recommend the RAD Stain Stripper for “old failed stains”, it was an oil based stain, so not topical. I’m curious should that be attempted in lieu of sanding? Then for sanding, 80 grit?
I keep reading about pressure washing as a possibility, would that work?
The TWP 100 Series is not allowed in CA. I am not sure if you can strip off Minwax stain. It will probably need to be sanded. Pressure washing will not remove it.
I have new cedar deck and siding that has weathered 9 months in eastern Iowa. What product would you recommend?
Thank you! Great site. Nice to see independent help from contractors.
TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck stains.
Just to clarify: TWP100 for the rough hewn cedar siding and RAD for the deck milled cedar?…. or either for both?
Thanks!
Either for both.
We just built a deck around the above ground pool using treated pine. In the fall I would like to stain the deck a grey color. Do you have a recommendation on Stain Brand and type of stain? I am concerned with using a semi solid like Cabot as I do not want the peeling. I have been researching brands and it is overwhelming with the reviews – good and bad. Thank you
Where do you live?
Southern illinois
Try the Armstrong Clark or the Restore A Deck Stains.
I have a new patio cover I just had installed. Apparently, it needs to be either painted or stained before the final inspection, and I have only 6 months before the permit expires. How long should I wait before staining? Based on what I’ve read here, it seems fine to let it sit through a winter season untreated. Since I live in Bakersfield, Ca., I don’t really expect too much rainfall anyway. Honestly, I’m just wondering if I should have the permit for the patio cover extended. Thank you.
Wait a few months, prep, and then stain. You have plenty of time before it expires.
Hi, we’re about to install a new wood deck (decking boards will be doug fir). I’ve read the article and know that we’ll need to wait to stain. First question: Once installed, can we sand the deck and then let it weather for a couple of months before we stain it? The reason I ask is because there are a lot of splintered bits along the edges, and I want to prevent them from getting in my children’s feet. If we rent a deck sander, will this also knock off any of the mill stamps? We live in Montana, so our weather window for staining is either within this first 3 months after installing the decking, or next summer. Next question: my husband wants to stain all four sides of the boards to help the deck last longer, but I read on your site that the wood needs to breathe. We’ve already stained what will be the bottom board of about 12 boards — should we stop doing that? Will it harm the deck that we stained those boards? We’re planning to use Armstrong Clark stain, as it was one recommended for new wood. Thanks in advance for your help.
You can lightly sand to remove splinters and stamps after install and then weather and prep before staining.
Do not stain all sides, just the exposed side when ready.
Hi – we just had a new redwood deck installed (two days ago). there are contractor crayon marks on some of the planks. He advised to sand those off before staining. I did sand two off but it has made the plank look patchy. Does this mean i have to sand the whole deck to even it out? or will the patches go after some weathering? thanks! Photos attached.
It should go away with weathering and prep.
thank you for the quick response. Can i also ask why it goes a different shade – is there a coating on the boards as part of the lumber process that comes off when sanded?
That happened as you spot sanded it finer that the rest of the wood.
thank you again for your reply – very helpful.
Hi! This is such a great website! I am currently getting a new cedar deck installed in the Pacific Northwest, and the contractors asked what color stain we wanted. What will the difference be if we have them stain it as they finish their job versus having them come back 3 months later to stain it (not sure if they will do this)? Also are oil-based stains safe for young children after they are applied and dried?
You cannot stain it right after instal. Need to follow the directions of the stain brand you are using and 99% of them state to weather and then prep.
Oil based stains are fine once they have fully cured.
Thanks!
Thank you for the quick response! Do we need to keep the deck clear for 3 months? No walking on it, no putting furniture on it, no grilling, etc.? What will happen if we stain it right away?
No, you can use it like normal. Not waiting and prepping can lead to premature stain failure and uneven application.
Thanks for all the great advice on this site. We cleaned, sanded, then cleaned with light detergent and then stained a very large 4 year old mahogany deck with Messemers UV Plus (we did not use a brightner before staining which I think we should have?). We made sure it was completely dry for 3 days before staining. We let first coat dry and then gave a second coat. However we did not realize you needed to wipe excess oil off after 30 mins. The deck is very dark in places which we can live with but it also has some tacky/sticky spots with what look like small beads of sticky oil. the deck gets alot of sun and its been a week and is getting a bit better. Do we wait and see if it gets absorbed over time or do we need to strip/sand and re-apply stain ?
Let it dry and cure out. You can also wipe down the shiny/sticky spots with rags and mineral spirits. If you do, make sure to saturate all oily rags in water and lay flat to dry outside.
Thanks for all the information here! I have OLD redwood 2×6 decking boards that have been sitting on my side yard for nearly 10 years. I ran them through the jointer and planer today to clean them up and they look like new. Once I am done building and sanding, should this wood be considered old or new? Do I still have to let it go through a weathering process prior to staining. In other words, what process and products do you recommend with respect to staining this old wood?
Yes, treat like new wood. Weather and then prep prior to the staining. Prep with RAD Cleaner and Brightener and stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hi guys,
Lee here again, hopefully for the last time this season. Moving over from the Stripping vs. Cleaning page as my next question concerns TWP stain. First, I must say that you were right, the brightener is my friend. It really took care of the dark blotchy areas on the cedar left by the chemical reaction of the stripper. Thank you!
So a quick recap. Two years ago I finished a new cedar deck in August without enough time to season and stain it before the raining season of the NW set in. Therefore I waited until May 2020, applying one coat of TWP 101 Cedartone. Unfortunately that stain failed over last winter on the main deck (chipping) but not on the connected porch. My theory was that the wood of the deck was still a little wet down in the pores from the prep process.
So I have now stripped, sanded fuzzies and residual stain with 80 grit, cleaned and brightened both the deck and the porch for consistency per your recommendations. Since the wood is now bare, should I be putting on one coat again with a maintenance coat next year or since the deck is almost two years old, should I be putting on two coats, wet on wet if the first one soaks in? (If the later, I should order more stain now before I begin.) Another option might be one coat now and another in early fall but this would force another round of cleaning and brightening – augh.
Thanks again for all the help. Far too much time into this one, hence I’m ready to get it right and move into a yearly maintenance coat.
V/r,
Lee
One coat now and another in 12-24 months after a light wash to remove dirt.
In some of your other discussions, I’ve seen you’ve mentioned waiting after sanding – somewhat similar to new wood. I would rather proceed with the TWP 101 stain again if possible (once the weather cooperates) as we are hoping to move back on to the deck as soon as possible. On the other hand, I don’t want a premature failure like last winter as I want to get this deck into a yearly clean, brighten and stain maintenance cycle. Please advise and thank you,
Does water soak in right away or bead on the wood for a time?
Soaks in. Sounds like it is good to stain?
It doesn’t look like I have a weather window for at least another week for an oil stain. Per your directions, now that I have sanded with 80 grit to remove fuzzies and some residual stain, I was going to clean and brighten with the RAD prep kit then let dry for 5 days before staining. To avoid more fuzzies, I was not going to power wash this time, just rinse both solutions with a strong nozzle on a garden hose. Neither the RAD cleaner or the brightener should make more fuzzies with a garden hose rinse, correct? Otherwise, I’m just undoing the sanding effort and going in circles.
It should be. Just the one coat. Pressure washing and prep products do not create fuzzies, oxidation/graying removal does. Best to just apply and lightly pressure wash off since you not have any oxidation on the wood.
Thanks! May I ask you one more question? We are thinking of switching from TWP to RAD stain now that the deck is stripped and sanded, only because the late spring weather in the NW can be tough to get a dry deck both before and after staining for a number of days. However, as an oil base we are thinking TWP probably looks nicer and holds up better so it is a tough choice. Is this your experience?
No, they last about the same.
We are ready to stain our pressure treated pine deck that was completed in late September. From what I read the Restore a Deck is the best option for us if we are trying to complete this quickly. Do we need to order all steps since the deck is relatively new and clean? Also, we live in AL so we are in hot and humid summer already. It is supposed to be in the 80’s with 40% humidity coming up. Will we still be ok?
Yes, you have to prep and then stain. You cannot skip the prep. Temps are fine.