This post was updated on April 4, 2025
2026 TWP 100 Series Review
Important Note: The TWP 100 Series has undergone a label change and is now called TWP 100 Pro Series. Rest assured, it’s the same trusted product with identical performance and colors.
At DeckStainHelp.com, we’re proud to be your go-to resource for everything related to exterior wood and deck restoration. Customers who have used the TWP 100 Series consistently report that their decks have weathered the harsh winter remarkably well, standing the test of time and the elements.
We value your feedback! If you’ve used the TWP 100 Pro Series, feel free to share your experience in the comments below. Don’t forget to include pictures of your completed projects—we’d love to see them!
TWP 100 Series Deck Stain Review
Important Note:Â This is our 2nd Review of the TWP 100 Series.
See our other reviews of the TWP 100 Series here: TWP 100 Wood Stain Reviews
TWP 100 Total Wood Preservative Deck Stain protects and maintains all exterior wooden surfaces. TWP Wood Stain is a special blend of chemicals in a contractor-grade formula that safeguards and protects exterior wooden surfaces.
TWP 100 Wood Deck Sealers lock out water and moisture that causes wood to crack, split, and warp. Freeze damage is also prevented in cold climates.
TWP Stains – 100 Stain Review
TWP 100 Series Wood Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 9
– The TWP 100 Stain was applied to a very large deck surrounding a pool. The wood was about 1 year old at the time and was prepped with the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner and Brightener kit. The wood was a knotty cedar and the Cedartone 101 color gave a rich look that is typical of a cedar stain. Knots and grain were enhanced and the stain dried evenly for the 2 coats that were applied to the floor.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8
– Same as the first time tested, The TWP Cedartone 101 retained about 80% of the original color after 2 years of weathering.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
– We found that the TWP did wear slightly in about 20% of the floor area. It was mostly in the high-traffic areas that surrounded the pool. The upper-level deck in the back had little to no wearing.
TWP 101 Cedartone Color
Cost Per Square Foot: 8.5
– The price paid was $170 for the 5-gallon pail of TWP 101 Stain. We used all 15 gallons for the 2100 foot pool deck. We applied two coats to the floor and 1 coat to the railing. The cost to stain with TWP 100 Series was $.23 per sq. foot.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10
– No mold, mildew or algae spores were present.
Ease of Application: 8
– As you can see from the photo, this deck was surrounded by a pool. We needed to be extremely careful of getting any stain into the pool. We did all flooring with a stain pad that allowed the stain to apply evenly and absorb well. We tarped the railings to prevent overspray and used a pump sprayer to apply to the spindles, back wiping the drips.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– The TWP did not darken from mold or UV discoloration. Slight water spots were noticeable around the edge of the pool.
The difficulty of Reapplication: 9
– Reapplication will be easy without the need for stripping off the two-year-old stain. The use of a wood cleaner and wood brightener should be sufficient prep. On this particular deck, we cleaned and prepped the flooring and reapplied it to the floor and top of the railings. We did not do the verticals as they still looked good from the original application.
Overall Score TWP 100 Series Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.69
– As contractors, we enjoy using TWP Stains. It penetrates well into the wood, fades lightly in color, and holds up to wear and tear. We like that when it is time to redo the wood in 2-3 years, the TWP can be cleaned and re-coated or even removed with ease. This makes the reapplication process much easier.
Note: We do not use TWP on brand new wood. If applied to wood that is less than 4 months old, it seems to have a difficult time with penetration. We find this with many of the stains we have used on new wood. The manufacturer suggests waiting 4-12 months to let the wood weather. We strongly suggest that you wait.
TWP 100 Pro Series Review
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 100
Cost: $41.99 per Gallon, $210 per 5 Gallon per Pail is the average
Stain Type: Oil-based Semi-Transparent
Available Colors: 100 Clear, 101 Cedartone, 102 Redwood, 115 Honeytone, 116 Rustic, 120 Pecan, 1o5 Cape Cod Gray, 106 Prarie Gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-8 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner
VOC Compliant: 550 Compliant in 36 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Western Red Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 2100
UV Exposure: Full Sun Deck and Pool Area, Skirting and Railings
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used:Â TWP Cedartone Natural 101
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 100 Series Stain Photos
TWP 100 Pro-Series Review Video
Applying TWP in Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
I have a cedar deck which I am in the process of sanding. I live in the Pacific Northwest (lots of rain) and the deck is in shade a majority of the time. I'm looking for stain that would resist graying, be mold resistant and easy to reapply yearly. I'd also like to highlight wood grain and be close to natural color. Any suggestions?
TWP 115 Honeytone for this.
Just finished re-planking 14×8 deck that is always in the shade, in Brunswick Maine. Which product should I use to protect the new decking? thanks.
Please read: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I have a deck that has not been sealed for 5-6 years now and is starting to show some signs of aging. I was wondering if I should use the TWP 100 or TWP 1500 on my deck. I live in Virginia so I wasn't sure if the TWP 100 was available to me or not. Could you please advise me on which to use? Also, do I need to put a sealer down before using the 100/1500 stain or is the product a combination so I only need to apply the one product after power washing/cleaning? Thanks for any help you can give me.
TWP is a stain and a sealer. Use the 1500 Series.
Would it be okay to do a little touch-up 3 days after application? I know the stain should be applied wet-on-wet but there are some "grooves" between the floor boards that I missed. Staining that would probably cause some excess stain that needs to be wiped off and land on top of dry stain.
Yes you can if you have to but you will need to wipe off excess right away.
I have a new 22×22 sq. ft. pressure treated Cedar deck located in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. I intend to let it sit unstained until next spring. The local lumber store suggested either the Cabot or Sikkens products, but from reading your website it seems a better choice is the TWP 100. Deck faces south and sees morning and late afternoon shade and mid day sun. Lots of snow and cold in the winter. I intend to use Restore cleaner and brightener to prep and a staining pad to stain. Is TWP 100 my best choice? What color would provide the longest life while keeping as much of the natural look as possible. Is Restore the best prep product and is the pad the best way to apply the stain?
Thanks…your website is the best!
TWP 100 would be a good choice for this. We normally use the Cedartone color for this stain. Yes apply with a pad and prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
We recently built a new cedar railing around our front porch in the Northeast (NY), near the water with lots of sun exposure. We also have a new exterior mahogany ceiling over our entry to the front door. I am having trouble selecting the right product/stain to finish the cedar railing and mahogany ceiling with. Should they both take an oil-based stain or water based and can they use the same product? I know that we would like semitransparent, but am overwhelmed with the number of different products to choose from. Ideally I would like for the top of the cedar railing and the mahogany ceiling to match with a dark, rich color with a bit of shine. I have some samples of Cabot Australian Timber Oil … I like the color that I have selected in the samle, would this be a good choice? Any recommendations would be appreciated! Thank you!
Please read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Putting anything shiny on a deck is a very bad idea. It will blister and peel.
Cabot Timber Oil is not the same as the Timber Oil we review in the above link. We would not use the Cabot ATO.
First of all, thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge with all of us, just for the asking.
I live in inland (Piedmont Triad area) NC (not near beaches, or mountains). My deck is made out of pine, and it is 18 years old. It faces North, so only a portion of it has sun all the time. 18 years ago I stained it with Sherwin Williams semi-transparent stain. It looked really great (even though the stain made the surface very slippery). Half of the deck is open, and the other half is part of a covered porch. I had to re-stain the open section, and I used a solid stain by Cabot, about 8 years ago. At present, in the open deck, I have "raw" wood, some sections where there is still the semi-transparent stain and some others with the Cabot stain.
Would one stain remover (which one?) take care of removing all these layers of old stain? and for the stain, will TWP100 be the preferable stain for my location? Thank you in advance for your advice
Stain removers will not remove the solid stain effectively so you will need to sand that part. The other ares where the semi-trans is still apparent, you can use the strippers. Brighten all wood after stripping and sanding. Yes on the TWP 100 Series for NC.
I have a brand new treated pine deck which is just being finished up now. We had to completely redo our deck since the last one was rotting after only 7 years. Prior we used a deck stain by Sherwin Williams. How long do we need to wait to stain the deck? What process should we use? We would like to keep it natural looking. We are located in Houston, TX and the deck gets 100% sunshine and faces South. Which of the TWP products would you recommend? Thank you ahead of time for your help.
TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months for new wood to season and then prep with their Gemini Restore Kit. Use the 100 Series.
Just had the cedar boards on our 24 year old deck replaced as they were beginning to rot underneath one by one. Since it is mid-July and snow will fly here in Vermont around mid-Oct.,should I wait until next spring/summer to stain? Regardless,is just sanding (to remove mill glaze) preferable/acceptable to using the liquid prep. products?
Not a fan of sanding unless you absolutely need to. Use cleaners and brighteners to remove mill glaze. Sanding can reduce stain absorption. You would need the 1500 Series for VT and yes you probably need to wait until spring if you want TWP.
We live in Pacific Northwest, with the raining season starts from September to April, mold problems is common. Had a new red cedar deck in with pressure-treated post and beams at east side of the house about a month ago. Trying to find the best semi-transparent sealer before the raining season starts, for better UV protection, less molds, less wear/tear and easier (less prep.) when re-apply it in two years. What do you recommend as how to prep., what sealers to use and when to apply? Thanks.
Please read: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I built 2 decks about 5 years ago with pressure treated southern yellow pine and live in Pittsburgh PA. I applied a sealer the 2nd year but it didn't do a great job. This would be my first time staining the decks.
It's currently gray. I would like the wet look I've read about a few other posts.
The upper deck gets direct sunlight most of the day. The lower deck is shaded all day and it turning green but not mossy. I like the I read quite a few posts on here but would like to confirm the products I need to purchase. Also, do both deck require 2 coats?
TWP 100 is not allowed in PA but the 1500 is. The lightest tint in the 1500 is the Honeytone and that would be close to a wet look.
Hello from michigan,
I just bought the TWP 101 for a double deck in cedar without a roof. It has been prepped with wash, brightener and sanded. It did have Sikkens SRD that was removed. Any suggestions on how to stain the underside of the cedar on top? I have a stain pad with handle and a brush. When to do the rails also- in what order? How long does it need to dry before it rains?
Thanks for the wonderful information!
1. Tarp bottom deck
2. Do top deck first with the TWP and rails as well
3. Stain underside of top deck with a deck stain pad and brushes
4. Do bottom deck last
Hello all you deck people! All of this information is very helpful so far, but I do have a question. We live in northern Nevada, just south of Carson City and at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains, so the winters can be brutal and the summers very hot. The deck is Western Red Cedar, and luckily it only gets about 15% sun all day, all year. It has a slatted roof and also gets shade from a large plum tree. We've used pennefin in the past, and it does okay, but we now need something more durable and longer lasting. Any suggestions on what would be the best for this type of deck in this type of climate? We checked in to Behr Deckover, but all the bad reviews have scared us away from that particular product.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Kim, strip off the Penofin and brighten the wood when done. Use the TWP 100 Series for this.
im looking for product in rochester ny also
TWP 100 is not allowed in NY but their 1500 Series is.
Why is TWP 100 not allowed in NY?
NY has a low VOC restriction that does not allow the TWP 100 Series.
Have a new cedar deck that has been installed 4 months ago. We cleaned/brightened and let deck dry 72 hrs prior to staining with TWP 115. Stain went on great and was absorbing well. About 2 hrs after completion of staining, we got an unexpected pop up rain shower for 20 minutes. The water seemed to bead up on most of the decking. I am concerned that the stain will lift and not cure properly. What is the next step for this scenario? Should we do a light maintenance coat after deck is dry for 3-4 days? Or do we need to clean/brighten again and start all over?
After drying form the rain does it look like it was small white spots or does it look even and nice?
Some small white spots in places. I would say about 80% of surface looks pretty even and nice
I would leave alone for the year and apply another coat of stain next year.
Posted earlier on the One TIme site, and saw this product discussion. Old growth, vertical gain, Western red cedar, fully dried before milling, milled 4 months ago, smooth finish. Use is for vertical driveway gates, 1x 12" horizontal boards, full sun and weather. The wood has been stickered and stored outside, undercover. Does that count as weathering , or does it need to be exposed to sun , UV? How much more time will it take to stain and seal? Milling yard said to sand with 60 or 80 grit, flat pad sander, not random orbital as that would show swirls in stained products. They give no advice on finishes, as they don't want to be liable for a poor job, or a wrong choice. I am in California, so we have very strict VOC regs. Which product would you learn towards? I would like to be able to recoat , when necessary without stripping, if possible. Many thanks to you and the others that contribute to the site. Max
It needs to be installed and exposed for 4-12 months. For Cali you need the TWP 1500. Prep after waiting with a deck cleaner and wood brightener.
I've posted two requests/questions and have not received any kind of response. How do I unsubscribe to the forum/blog?
We responded to your posts: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-brand-com…
We build a new wood desk (treated oak) and plan to let it weather for the next year and then want to stain. It doesn't sound like Behr is good and problems with Sikkens as well. Do you think TWP 100 Stain would be the best for us to use for this type of wood?
Yes the TWP would work well for this application and wood type.
We live in Chicago and have a 20 year old cedar deck that we just stripped and used brightner. Looking for a stain/sealer that will last for more than a year. Deck is about 24 inches from ground. No problem with mildew. Local dealers said that all better brands of stain formulas have been changed and no longer as effective, i.e. Super Deck, Sikkens, etc. Can we expect better results from TWP? Deck is in full sun in the morning.
Only the TWP 1500 is allowed in Chicago and you should get 2 years of life in your climate.
I applied TWP 100 Cedar tone to my deck in August 2012. It is most definitely time to reapply. The color is still there but the beading of water is long gone, especially in high traffic areas. The vertical railings will still bead water after a rain. I plan on using TWP 100 in same color again. So my question is what do I need to do to prep my deck this year before I reapply it. Thanks for any advice.
Jim
Use there Gemini Restore Kit for the prep for reapplication.
We just put up a cedar fence with lattice top and an arbor in the corner. We used treated for the posts and horizontal supports, then rough cedar for the pickets and everything else. We trimmed out the lattice with cedar 1 by 4's that are smooth on one side and rough on the other, and he put the smooth side out. I had my kids sand the fence on the outside a bit to get rid of a bit of the roughness. Is there anything I have to do differently to prep the wood since there is rough and smooth cedar on it. If I wait the 4 months, then can I just stain/seal it up or do I need to prep it at all?
Since it is vertical and mostly rough wood I would just let it dry out for a month and stain. No need for prep but you should watch for drips/runs on the smooth wood.
Hi there, My husband and I built our deck the summer of 2012 with treated wood, we have been going back and forth on stains and deck over paints! It is a very large deck with privacy slats on part of it so we, of corse, would like something that will last!!! We were looking at the deck over and restore products but we have read a lot of bad reviews of peeling. I guess I would like some advice please?? Our deck is in the sun until 6pm and half of it is our pool deck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
The TWP would be a good choice for this after proper prep.
I have the same question. Can't find this or DEFY Extreme anywhere around here. How is there not a decent Clear stain anwhere in the state?!?!
Have a project to stain logs, trim and railings (mostly vertical) on building in high altitude, cold winter, high UV sun exposure in Colorado Rockies? Lots of information about staining decks, but what about application to non-deck in Colorado? Recommended?
You can use the same advice for vertical logs. Try the TWP or the Armstrong Clark for the house. Verticals will last 2-3 times longer than horizontals surfaces.
I have a new pressure treated deck. It's currently 3 weeks old. I was going to use some Cabots or Olympic on it in another few weeks until I found this site. I think I have decided to let it sit for another 2 months and use TWP on it. I have a few questions if that's okay:
1. My wife wants to keep as close to the natural wood colors as possible, as opposed to an actual dark stain color. Does TWP offer a clear or natural color?
2. When I sand off the stamp marks on the wood, what grit sandpaper should I use?
3. I live in Ohio where our summers are in the 90's and our deck gets direct sunlight from the morning until 5pm, so about 10 hours a day. We also get pretty harsh winters here, was -30F last year with the wind chill. The deck is raised and we live on a hill so it's constantly got a breeze coming through. No shade at all until 5pm when the sun goes over the house and starts to set… no trees nearby or anything. Would the 100 or 1500 be best? Again, keeping in mind we want that more natural looking wood color.
Thanks in advance and the site has been VERY helpful!
* Cross-posted this on the TWP 1500 stain thread since I wasn't sure which to use.
1. Clear means you will not have UV graying protection. Need a tint. We find the Honeytone is lightest.
2. Use 60 grit and do it now so it will even out after waiting a couple of months.
3. Only 1500 is allowed for OH.
We added a deck to our home one year ago. It is Yellow Pine brand. We are ready to apply stain. Deck has been powerwashed and is back to yellow color of the pine. Deck is facing south and gets little shade. What is next step?
You should be ready to go with the TWP 100 Series if the wood is clean.
I have to stain a small fishing pier. Can I use this product? I live in Richmond VA
Yes you can use this.
I have a three year old 400sf pine deck that we rebuilt in 2010. We waited 1 year to stain. We used cabot semi transparent in the fall of 2011 by the spring of 2012 the stain had already started to peal. We have a two tone deck dark floor with white railings. We have sprayed washed it and most of the stain is gone. Our plan is to use Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightner to remove the remaining stain. Then apply the TWP stain. Is this correct? Which stain? 100 or 1500? I see that you recommended 1500 for Chicago area and 100 for Michigan. I live in Southern WI and the deck is southern/western facing so it gets lots of afternoon sun. Which one is correct for my project. Also I saw a comment that the darker stains last longer which colors are in the dark stain group? Is Rustic?
Use the 100 for WI. The Rustic is darker but more red than brown.
I have a new three-story cedar deck in the Central Texas Hill Country. The area is in an extreme drought and has been for the last year. My log home is built into the side of a large hill overlooking a valley. Due to the location, the house and deck are very dry and windy all the time.
The deck took almost 7 months to build, so the cedar decking has been onsite for the last six months. Some parts of the deck have been in place for 4+ months, but others have been in place for only a couple of days. I want to stain the deck as soon as possible to prevent the original wood from becoming to dry.
1. The deck stain company wants to chemically clean the deck and then, do a light sanding with 80 grit to open up the pores of the wood. They said this will even out all of the color on all the new and old boards. Is a light sanding a good idea?
2. I am leaning towards TWP 100 Cedar Tone, but the deck company is recommending Cabot Australian Timber Oil or Sikkens SRD. Are either of these stains better than TWP 100 in a very dry and windy environment with direct sun exposure?
3. I am not sure about the 4 month rule in this situation because most of the deck has been in place for 4+ months, but other areas were just recently installed. If I wait another 4 months, the largest part of the deck will be 8+ months old.
Any suggestions for other products will be appreciated.
Thanks
1. Yes and no. Sanding doe not open the grain but can close it. If they sand they should water wash/rinse when done to remove sand dust and swell the pores.
2. No
3. TWP wants you to wait. Most stain companies will want you to wait. This article is helpful: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you for your reply. I read the article and I want to clarify your answers to 1 and 3.
1. Should they be using 60 grit instead of 80 grit for the light sanding to prevent closing of the grain?
2. If they light sand the deck to remove the gray color and mill glaze (4+ month cedar will look the same as 1 week cedar, which is the point of paying extra to have them sand it), does it really matter if I wait 4+ months? In other words, what does waiting do for the wood that sanding will not remove?
3. How long after sanding and water wash/rinse before applying the stain? (Same day, 1 day, etc.)
Thanks again,
TxCedar
1. Does not matter that much. We usually use 60.
2. Lets the natural oils dry out so the stain will absorb deeper.
3. 2-3 days.
fyi, I just left this comment on the website I've been using in order to help us pick out a stain color:
This website has been tremendously helpful, I am so glad I found it! In the next few weeks I am planning on staining my pressure treated, 10 month old deck and fence with TWP 100. However, we have been having a hard time picking out which color.
We bought some samples (CedarTone, HoneyTone, Pecan, and Dark Oak), then cleaned, brightened, and stained some new pressure treated lumber in order to get a good look at what the colors look like.
We live in a brick row house that is painted a beige color, and am trying to figure out what color would look good for this, or if I should simply go with a dark stain like Dark Oak (which may also look great against a light house) in order to maximize the UV protection. Conversely perhaps since it's a new deck we should use a light stain to show the wood more. I realize these are a matter of preferences, but am curious what most folks do.
Is it true that the lighter the color the more often you need to re-stain it? The deck only gets sun from dawn until ~1pm by the way, so perhaps UV graying isn't as big of a concern for this deck.
What are the more popular colors and what are the considerations folks use for what color to choose? Do folks typically use a lighter stain on newer wood; would it be unusual to use the Dark Oak stain on new wood?
Finally, if we painted now in a lighter color (like Honeytone), in the future if we wanted to stain with a darker color (like Dark oak), could we simply put this on top of the Honeytone or would we need to first strip it?
Yes on the lighter colors fade faster than a darker color. Most of our customers go with a cedar tone color. That really does not mean anything though. I personally like the dark oak color and probably would look better with your house than the cedar. If you change colors you should strip. Have you considered a two toned deck?: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having…
Thanks for your reply. I guess I don't understand why you would have to strip if we stained a lighter color now, (pecan for example) and then in a few years decided to re-stain with Dark Oak (same TWP100). You don't have to strip when you simply re-stain the same color do you? Isn't this in a way just like re-staining with the same color? The only difference is you are staining over it with a much darker color, it seems if you didn't first strip the worst case is that there would be a kind of blending or mixing of colors rather than a full replacement of color by the new, darker stain.
One more question, I'm wondering how much of a time lag there can be in between cleaning and brightening the wood and then staining it. ? i.e. is it too much of a wait if I cleaned and brightened 2 or 3 weeks before I could stain it, or does it really need to happen within 2 or 3 days of applying the stain?
Thanks again!
The lighter color may show through some in the darker color. It is best to strip just to make sure you have uniformity. stripping TWP is easy anyhow. Just apply stripper and pressure wash off. No harder than using a cleaner.
Two weeks is probably fine to wait after the prep.
I live in Wi and have a south facing ceder deck that is 19 years old. I have used Rymar but always need to treat every year. I like ease of use and the look of this product but Rymar is about $75 a gallon. Would TWP100 be a better choice and is it sold in WI? I also pressure wash and use deck cleaner every year. This deck is the main entrance to our home and is shovled in the winter.
Lorrie, yes I would consider the TWP and it is sold in most states. Make sure to strip off the Rymar first.
Have a 25 yr old pine deck approx 1000sq ft in WV. Deck has Cabbot semi-transparent stain on it that actually wore ok over last 3 years. Do I still need to apply a deck stripper and sand if I want to apply TWP of similar color on my deck this time?
Chris, yes you should always strip or sand off previous coatings when switching brands. Brighten when done.
Reading all posts, confirming that in Texas heat, a rough fence would best benefit from TWP100 applied 7-8 weeks after completion. No prep, enjoy. Thanks for help
Yes on this.
using rough cut cedar from Menards to build a large wood and Metal art sculpture. I Want the cedar to maintain the natural color. It will be in the sun, rain, snow of Wisconsin. What product can I apply now ( just bought lumber) and what do you recommend. Thanks
Neil, if rough you can stain now. Look at the TWP 100 Series.
We have a small (100 sf) cedar deck that was installed three years ago and has never been sealed or stained. I got rid of the grey with 30 Second Cleaner and am ready to give it its first coat. We are on the central Oregon coast 100 yards from the surf and have an average annual rainfall of 66 inches. In the immediate area, the only brands of stain available are Cabot, Sikkens, Ace and Sherwin-Williams. Will any of those do or should I buy something else on line and have it shipped here?
Jack, find something better locally or online.
What would be a good option for Chicago weather..TWP100 or TWP1500?
TWP 1500.
I moved into a home with decks that i don't believe were ever finished/protected. They are 10 years old. I have treated for mildew/algae and the wood is clean, but it is all gray. We are in New Hampshire, one deck receives sun most of the day and also has a longer staircase, and front deck is shaded a lot of the time. We get a good deal of snow each year. Two questions… do i need to do anything else to the deck before staining, and given these conditions, what stain should i be looking to use? Thanks so much!
Sarah, yes you need to prep first with a deck cleaner, light pressure washing, and brighten when done. For NH you would need the TWP 1500 Series.
Hi,
We are trying to make a Scree/Trellis using Clear grade smooth cedar.
My question is about the time to stain. I know TWP recommends 4-12 months of weathering. Since there is a gap of 1" between boards, I believe that to get the best finished product, they would need to be stained on all sides. If so, they would have to be stained before installing. I asked this same question at the deck supply store and they agreed that is better to have them weather for a while, but they suggested to pressure wash the boards and wait for them to dry and then they could be stained before installing. The reasoning is that, the pressure wash would take away most if not all the mill glaze and that it would open up the pores much quicker. An accelerated weathering process of sorts. What do you think?
Thank you for your help.
Hi, we just replaced the deck boards and stairs with cedar. We live in SE Michigan, deck faces south sun all day. How long should we wait to stain it? Also, I have been looking for DEFY EXTREME WOOD STAIN Butternut color. Can't find it, in all the info I read about it, it seems to be a great product, so why has everyone quit carrying it?? In the past we have used EVERY brand of stain/deck preservative, not happy with any of them. Should we use the twp 100 or 1500?? Is there a waterborne formula you would use or recommend? Thank you for your help, great source of information!!
Paula, for Michigan you would most likely want the TWP 100 Series for this. If you want the water based then the Defy Extreme would be best. I would contact manufacturers for local dealer help.
Hello
I live in the Pacific NW and have a old cedar deck that has had many boards replaced over the years. I currently use Penafin red can but have experienced the darkening and mold problems requiring I clean and re-stain at least yearly. I am looking for a product which will allow me to do this process every two years or longer.Currently I have cleaned the deck twice with bleach solution which removed the mold and some of the old stain. Even though the stain is removed some of the boards still look darkened. Do you have suggestions on what to use to improve this? Also do I need to remove all of the penafin before applying TWP? if so, what type of deck stripper/cleaner should I use? Thanks so much!!
Julie, to remove the Penofin use the Restore A Deck Stripper with a light pressure washing. Use the RAD Brightener when done. Try TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark for stain. Neither will darken in color like the Penofin does.
Hi,
Great site. Newly moved into house has 700 sq ft deck, southern exposure, in Jersey. Current condition of deck is pretty good. No peeling, no mold, very little greying on horizonal surfaces only. Just needs a good washing prior to treatment. Not sure of species of wood.
Which stain would be your recommendation and would you suggest light sanding at all along with power washing?
Use a deck cleaner with the pressure washing and lightly sand if needed. Brighten and rinse well when done. Use the 100 or 1500 Series.
Thanks!
My local Ace Hardware has TWP on the shelves. Is it the same quality as the TWP100 recommended by you? They do not carry the 1500… what is the difference. I want to get this right the !st time. I have already cleaned my 5mo deck with Restore and want to apply the sealer. My decking is 3/4 board yella-wood, southern exposure, Kansas weather. Really looks great already. Thanks!
Tom, it should say on the can if it is the 100 Series. I would use this.
Can you use TWP 100 on new cedar dock pallets in Minnesota? If you wait until the new wood dries out, will it turn gray? Will the new cedartone stain renew the color? Do you need to prep the pallets if you only wait a month or so?
Bruce, we never stain new smooth wood with TWP. We always wait as the manufacturer suggests and only apply one coat. Wood will gray and that is okay. You have to prep the new wood first anyhow and the cleaner will remove the gray.
We bought a house last year with about a 800 square foot deck. It appears that the deck was never stained, sealed, or cleaned after being built. The deck is starting to show some signs of sun damage, ie cracks and is completely gray.
The main part of the deck is on the west side of the house and gets direct sunlight from around 11am to 2pm, with partial shade the remainder of the day. We live in Georgia and have a lot of trees around the house and deck. Would this TWP 100 be the right stain for our deck? Also, would we just need to follow the preparation steps on the can or would we need to do some extra steps?
Heather, best to use a deck cleaner and wood brightener for the prepping first. TWP 100 Series would work well for you.
I have 3200 sq ft of deck that is 12-15 years old. Approximately 1000 sq ft in full sun (a pier and walk way) with the remainder in shade. Last year I powerwashed and used Thompson's water sealer. Definitely need to start again. Have a fair amount of mold on the shaded deck and pier is exceptionally dry. No beading of water on even the most protected areas. Was thinking I'd use Restore Cleaner and Brightener. Not sure what to use for stain. Suggestions?
Riverdeck, the 100 Series would be a good choice for this.
I built a 500 sq ft Cedar deck just before winter last year. On the south side of the house, Indiana sun all summer and cold winters. It has already greyed, I'm going to wash and clean it before I seal it, I like the natural color and don't want it to fade to grey, what color and type of TWP would you recommend?
Robert, for Indiana you can only use the TWP 1500 Series due to your state laws. Honeytone is the lightest tint with UV protection.
I have a 500 SF cedar deck that is 2 years old. It was originally done with Behr Premium. Big Mistake! as it is peeling as if the stain didn't soak in, just sat on the top. What steps should I do now to restore the cedar deck? Will I be more satisfied with the TWP or is there something better?
Richard, you have to remove the Behr. Strip off what you can and sand the rest. Brighten wood when done. TWP is much better than Behr but so is every stain pretty much 🙂 We use the TWP on most of our customers decks that we redo.
I have a covered cedar deck. The outside corner posts are painted as is my house. I have aluminum spindles/balusters as well. What sort of care needs to be taken for the area/s you don't want cleaner/stain? Thanks!
Erick T, sorry but I do not understand your question. Are you asking what to use for the natural wood areas that are not painted?
I have a 400 sq ft pressure treated wood deck in New York that had a red solid stain on it that was peeling everywhere (deck gets sun all day). I powerwashed and sanded the deck (rented a deck sander) but not the railings because the railings are in good shape and it appears to be a real pain to sand the railings. I would like to put on a solid stain that will cover the railings and deck but will not look too different since the railings have a red solid stain on them. What color and stain do you recommend – I want the most durable stain possible so I don't have to do this again for a while but I also want it to match given the railings still have red solid stain on them. Also is 5 gallons enough?
Colin, did you get all of the solid stain off the floor? Might want to consider a two toned deck. This would explain a little better: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having…
Yes, I got all the solid stain off the floor while the railings and steps are still solid red stain. I like the two tone idea. Any suggestions for a semi-transparent for the floor and a solid for the railings and steps?
Colin, use the TWP for the semi-trans and look at Flood Solid stain for the rails. Prep the floor with a deck cleaner first.
Great website! Moderators seem very helpful and responsive!
I live in Tampa Florida and had a pine fence installed approximately a year ago. I am ready to apply TWP100 and I am curious If I need to do any prep work prior other than a simple pressure wash. Additionally what is a popular stain color for pine? I noticed most of the comments are in reference to cedar decks. Are there any photo galleries which show the TWP colors applied to wood? Thanks in advance!
Yes you should at least use a deck cleaner when pressure washing. We apply many colors to pine wood. Really just depends on what you like. Many use the Cedartone or Pecan color. Not sure where to find the photo galleries. I would ask the manufacturer for advice on that.