This post was updated on April 5, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2026
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain?
Proper deck preparation is the most important step when it comes to staining exterior wood. From my experience restoring decks since 1993, most stain failures are caused by poor prep—not the stain itself.
If the wood is not cleaned, stripped (if needed), and brightened correctly, the stain will not penetrate properly and will fail much sooner than it should.
This guide will help you determine whether your deck needs to be cleaned, stripped, or sanded—and how to prep it correctly before staining.
Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
🔹 Step 1: Determine Your Deck Condition
Before starting, you need to identify your deck’s current condition. This will determine the proper prep method.
Common Deck Conditions:
- New Wood – Needs weathering and light prep
- Grayed or weathered wood – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Previously stained wood (good condition) – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Failing or peeling stain – Requires stripping or sanding
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Step 2: Cleaning the Deck
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
🔹 How To Deck Cleaning Tips
- Use a quality wood deck cleaner
- Apply evenly and allow proper dwell time
- Pressure wash for heavily soiled areas
- Rinse thoroughly
Cleaning alone is not enough—you must follow with a brightener.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
👉 Deck Cleaning Tips
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 3: Brightening the Wood
Brightening is a critical step that many homeowners skip.
- Restores natural wood color
- Neutralizes the wood after cleaning
- Opens the pores for better stain penetration
- Helps ensure even stain color
Skipping this step can lead to blotchy or uneven results.
👉 Deck Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
🔹 Step 4: Stripping the Deck (When Needed)
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a varnish-like shine cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure-washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
🔹 You should strip your deck if:
- Stripping is required when old coatings are preventing proper absorption
- The old stain is peeling or uneven
- The coating is a solid or heavy film
- You are changing stain brands or the type of stain
- Removes old coatings for better penetration
- May require multiple applications
- Must be followed by brightening
👉 How to Strip a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
🔹 Step 5: Sanding (When Necessary)
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
Sanding is sometimes needed, but should not be your first option.
- Use when wood is rough, splintered, or heavily coated
- Helps smooth the surface if it’s very rough
Important: Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration. never sand finer than 60-80 grit.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 6: Dry Time Before Staining
After prep, the wood must dry completely unless using the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
- Allow 24–48 hours depending on weather
- Wood should feel dry to the touch
- Moisture content should be low
Staining damp wood is one of the most common causes of failure.
🔹 Recommended Deck Prep Products
Using the right products at each stage will make a huge difference in your final results.
For Cleaning and Brightening:
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System (top choice for prep)
For Stripping (if needed):
- Restore-A-Deck deck stain strippers (depending on coating type)
For Staining:
- Penetrating oil-based stains (TWP, Armstrong Clark)
- Water-based stains (Restore-A-Deck)
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Common Deck Prep Mistakes
From my experience, these are the most common mistakes:
- Skipping the brightener step
- Not removing old coatings fully
- Over-sanding with too fine a grit
- Not allowing enough dry time
Avoiding these mistakes will significantly improve your results.
🔹 Final Thoughts on Deck Prep
Proper deck prep is the foundation of any successful staining project. No matter how good the stain is, it will not perform correctly without proper preparation.
From my hands-on experience, taking the time to clean, strip (if needed), and brighten your deck correctly will result in a better-looking finish that lasts longer and requires less maintenance.
If you follow these steps, your stain will perform the way it should, and your deck will be much easier to maintain over time.
Pressure Washing Tips for Deck Cleaning or Stripping
Power washing can speed up the deck cleaning process, but it should only be used by those with experience. Improper use can damage the wood and result in costly repairs. If you do choose to use a power washer, follow these guidelines to avoid harming your deck:
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Always use a deck cleaner or deck stain stripper first. These products do 90% of the cleaning work. The power washer should only be used to rinse off the loosened grime—not as the main cleaning method.
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Treat the power washer like a rinse tool, not a scrub brush. Use it to gently wash away the cleaner or stripper, not to grind dirt off the surface.
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Use a sweeping, pendulum-style motion. Work with the grain of the wood and never pause or reverse direction without lifting the wand. Failing to maintain a smooth motion can leave permanent “stop marks” in the wood.
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Keep pressure between 1200–2000 PSI. Even if you’re using a 3000 PSI machine, distance matters. Washing from 8–12 inches away will reduce the effective pressure to a safer level for wood surfaces.
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Exercise caution. If you’re unsure about your technique or have never used a power washer on wood before, it’s best to hire a professional. Incorrect use can permanently damage your deck.
🔹 Prep by Deck Condition
Not all decks require the same prep process. The key is understanding your deck’s current condition and using the correct method before staining.
From my experience, using the wrong prep method is one of the biggest reasons stains fail early.
🔸 New Wood Decks
New wood cannot be stained right away. It must be properly weathered and prepped to allow the stain to absorb.
- Let wood weather for 3–6 months
- Clean and brighten before staining
- Do not sand too smooth, as this can reduce absorption
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔸 Grayed or Weathered Wood
If your deck has turned gray from sun exposure, it needs to be cleaned and brightened.
- Use a wood cleaner to remove dirt and oxidation
- Follow with a brightener to restore color
- This will help open the wood pores for stain absorption
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔸 Previously Stained Deck (Good Condition)
If your deck has an existing stain that is still in good shape, you can usually clean and recoat.
- Clean and brighten the wood
- Make sure the existing stain is of stain brand and color
- Apply a maintenance coat before full wear
This is the easiest scenario and requires the least amount of prep.
🔸 Peeling or Failing Stain
If your deck has peeling, flaking, or uneven stain, it must be stripped before applying a new coat.
- Use a deck stripper to remove old coatings
- May require multiple applications
- Always follow with a brightener after stripping
Skipping this step will lead to poor results and uneven staining.
👉 How to Strip a Deck Stain
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔸 Rough or Splintered Wood
If the wood surface is rough or splintered, sanding may be needed.
- Light sanding can smooth the surface
- Do not over-sand, as it can reduce stain penetration
- Clean and brighten after sanding
Sanding should be used only when necessary, not as a default step.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Prep by Deck Condition
If you are unsure which category your deck falls into, start with cleaning and evaluate how the wood responds. If water does not absorb into the surface, additional prep such as stripping may be needed.
🔹 Deck Prep FAQs
Do I need to clean my deck before staining?
Yes. Cleaning is required to remove dirt, mildew, and old stain residue so the new stain can properly penetrate the wood.
Do I have to use a wood brightener after cleaning?
Yes. Brightening is a critical step that restores the wood’s pH balance and helps the stain absorb evenly. Skipping this step can lead to blotchy results.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
How do I know if my deck needs to be stripped?
If changing stain brands and or the type of stain. If the old stain is peeling, uneven, or water does not absorb into the wood, then stripping is usually required before applying a new stain.
Can I just clean and recoat my deck without stripping?
Yes, but only if the existing stain is the same stain brand and color and is still in good condition. If not, stripping may be needed.
Should I sand my deck before staining?
Only if necessary. Sanding is typically used for rough wood or failed coatings, but over-sanding can reduce stain penetration.
How long should I wait to stain after cleaning the deck?
You should wait 24–48 hours, depending on weather conditions, to ensure the wood is fully dry before staining. This does not apply to Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
What happens if I stain a damp deck?
Staining damp wood can lead to poor penetration, uneven color, and early stain failure. This does not apply to Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
What is the most common mistake when prepping a deck?
The most common mistake is skipping the brightener step or failing to fully remove old coatings before staining.
Do I need to prep new wood before staining?
Yes. New wood should be properly weathered and cleaned before applying stain.
👉 Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
What is the correct order for prepping a deck?
The proper order is:
- Clean (not needed if stripping)
- Strip (if needed)
- Brighten
- Let dry
- Stain
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Deck Prepping
From my experience, proper prep is what determines how long your stain will last. If you take shortcuts here, the stain will fail early no matter how good the product is.
Deck Prepping Product Articles
What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
I live in Alberta, Canada and my fence is about 12 years old. It’s pressure treated lumber and I’m fairly certain it’s never been stained. I have pressure washed it. One side gets a LOT of sun and there was a ton of grey in the fence boards that for the most part came out when pressure washing. The other side doesn’t get as much sun but there is a definite color difference on the two side of the fence in the backyard. The one side is VERY light colored (almost a pine color now that it’s been washed) and the other side is a brown/orange color even after being washed. I’m looking to brighten up the fence and protect it and start a maintenance routine as the previous owners never did.
I believe this is due to UV exposure. Once stained, it should all even out. Similar to when it was wet with water.
Ok amazing! Even though I pressure washed it already, should I still use a cleaner on it? I’ve also noticed some “fuzzies” in some areas; google search is saying to just stand that off with some 80 grit? I’m thinking of going with a semi-solid, low VOC TWP stain in their “Super Cedar” color. Because I’m in Canada, I’m limited to products, but would this be a good choice for starting a bi-annual maintenance schedule for the fence?
The TWP VOC semi-solid will work great on this fence and will last 3-4 years. It wouldn’t hurt to clean and brighten it beforehand. No need to sand.
Since logistically (for reasons of physical intricacy of the structure, our age, $$ restrictions and most of a 5-gallon bucket leftover from a more recent purchase) I suspect we’re locked into re-applying the same Behr product, what is the best approach to trying to get the re-application to stick to the bared wood at least as well as it did the first time?
The Behr is sitting on top of the wood like a solid stain. You are correct, this would not be an easy strip. To recoat, strip off what you can and apply a new coat over the old stain and bare spots. You will have some unevennesses, though, but it can’t be avoided.
Brighten after to neutralize.
New pressure treated pine last year, cleaned/brightened with RAD, stained with AC semitransparent… beautiful! Cleaned/brightened with RAD today used fan tip contraption that attached to garden hose (less powerful than the pressure washer). Looks blotchy and seeing shoe prints after drying. What do I do now?!!! I’m afraid that staining as is will not turn out well.
Thank you for what you do for people like me!
You half-prepped it. To get it even (and so it stains evenly), use the Restore-A-Deck Stain stripper and the brightener again.
Deck prep
Answers to the 8 questions
1-3yrs old
2-Yes
3-Maintenance coat same brand color
4-Super Deck
5-Solid
6-No issues
7-Before last stain cleaned w/dawn & oxi clean and used deck whitener
8- Pics attached first pic is the worst area
Thanks
You have a solid opaque stain. See prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
And the best solid color deck stain options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Built deck in 2020 with pressure treated spruce. Let it weather for 12 months and followed with a clean/brighten/spot sand the next season and application of Armstrong Clark Transparent deck stain (Natural tone). By fall the deck started turning black. Retailer suggested UV damage due to no pigment so the following season I cleaned/brightened and sanded the whole deck and applied Armstrong Clark in a cedar tone. Again the deck turned black so I attempted to clean it the following year with the retailers cleaner/brigtener and it would seemingly pull the stain out as well as if the stain was not penetrating the wood and was trapping mold. I tried some 30 Second mold cleaner and it immediately cleared up the mold but also pulled the stain and left some bleaching (did this before seeing you tip to avoid that product). I am looking to move to something water based and know have to again strip/sand/brighten but what do I need to do to ensure the new product penetrates (full mold treatment prior to staining???). The hours that this takes (500 sq feet plus stairs and skirting) makes this quite frustrating so I want to be sure I am prepping properly. My neighbour across street built deck and used same stain the same season and has had similar problems.
Water-based stains will not promote mildew growth, but no stain will prevent it from growing on top of their coatings. For the best penetrating water-based stain, use the RAD stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-review/
For mildew and mold prevention, you can add this on top of your stain after it has dried and cured:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/rad-guard-mildew-cleaner-preventer-1-gallon/
Thanks – any idea why the stain seemed to never penetrate the wood?
It probably penetrated just fine, and I doubt that was the issue. It could just be an issue with your environment and mildew/mold being prone in the area.
I had a company Pro Woodcare stain my deck every 2 or 3 years for the last 20 years. My deck is in good shape. They use a linseed oil based product call PWC 1000 (I assume it is their brand or they take an existing brand and put their name on it). Their pricing has gotten too expensive so I plan on doing the job myself. I plan on using a linseed oil based stain like Armstrong Clark. My question is do I need to strip and brighten since I am using a different stain or can I just clean and brighten since I am using also using a linseed oil based stain?
Stripping and brightening when switching deck stain brands is best.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
Thank you for the quick response. One more follow up question. Since I’m stripping, does it really matter whether I go with another linseed oil based stain? If not would you recommend TWP100 or Armstrong Clark?
You can use any oil-based stain when you strip. Both TWP 100/1500 Series and AC will have some linseed oil in them.
Our deck was built in fall 2023. We cleaned and stained it with TWP 100 Pro Series stain in spring 2024. Our cleaning this year (with Restore a deck) caused some of the stain to gum up and rinse off. Why would it have done that? Was it an issue with the stain application or the cleaning? (I know the cleaning wasn’t quite right – it dried very quickly, though I did my best to keep things damp until rinsing.)
Most likely, since it was new wood, the TWP never fully soaked into the wood grain but dried on top of the wood. This could be due to the prep last year or application.
I just had a deck installed and i am currently in the process of sanding it down with 60 grit to get a smooth finish along with rounding off the sharp edges. The deck is pine and less than 2 months old. Do I need to still use a deck cleaner before using the brightening agent?
From your articles (thanks so much btw) It looks like i am going to lean towards a semi- transparent oil-based stain. i bought a 2 3/4 Wooster stain brush along with a Shur line 9-inch pad. I am going with a darker stain for the boards and railings, with a lighter stain for the spindles. Any suggestions on the brands I should go with. looking for a medium walnut look for the darker sections but if you have recommendations i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! Don’t have many pics now but i sent before and after close up pics of before and after sanding. I plan to run a sander quickly over the boards to get rid of splinters and imperfections along with using wood puddy to close up the screw holes. There are some large gaps for which i plan to put in shims, and wood puddy to close up and sand down. Thanks again!
See this about new wood first:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
After proper weathering, clean and brighten for prep.
Never use wood filler on a deck. It will not work and will not “stain” to blend. Sanding is not the best way to prep as it closes the wood pores and reduces stain penetration.
When ready, look at Armstrong Clark Stains or TWP 1500 Series.
Much appreciated. can you tell if it is smooth, rough or KDAT wood? thanks again
You have smooth wood.
I have been using Flood CWF oil. It turns black like it’s collecting dirt. In 4 years on a new treated wood deck I’ve used deck cleaner and pressure washed it and reapplied the same product. It’s prepared again and I have 2 gallons of product but am looking for something that stays looking better. It’s hard to clean the cwf off? I thought the oil would be better than a water based product but am disappointed.
You will need to remove it entirely and start over with a stain that won’t darken or turn black over time. Post some pics for prep help in comments.
I plan to sand it to remove raised grain (fuzz) from heavy pressure washing. Pics won’t load.
You should be good to stain after the sanding. FYI, never sand finer than 60-80 grit for a deck:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Look at TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Semi-transparent. Neither will darken in color.
Hi, I have a deck that was finished in early April 2024. I’d like to stain it in the next couple of weeks while the weather is around 60 degrees. Do you recommend I sand the deck prior to staining? Or should I skip the sanding because it’s so new and could potentially close up pores and prevent stain from sinking in. Also, what other steps should I take prior to staining? Should I clean the deck? Anything else I should do? Very new to this but don’t mind putting in the extra effort to get a great finish!
You would want to clean and brighten for prep. Only sand if needed after to remove any furring that can happend when removing gray oxidation. Look at Restore A Deck cleaner and brightener kits.
Thank you. I live in Charlotte, NC so it gets pretty hot/humid in the summer. I’d also like to clean, brighten and stain all in one weekend if possible. Do you recommend a specific type of stain for my region? Semi- transparent? How do I choose what VOC? Here’s a picture of my deck. I believe it’s pressure treated wood but not 100% what kind.
Hi Scott,
I am really happy to come across this website and great deal of information contained here. Thank you for doing such an amazing job. I have two different projects that I would love your opinion on:
Any particular stain colors that you think would look good on these?
Thank you in advance,
Karen
Both areas need to be stripped and brightened for prep. Look at Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits with both additives while pressure washing:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
As for the stain, try the Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark stains.
Hi Scott, thank you for your reply. I have a couple of follow-up questions. For the gazebo which is next to the pool and gets constantly splashed with chlorine water, is there any additional protection that I can use on top of stain to ensure that the posts last longer? Can you recommend any such protector that can be applied?
My next question is about the pressure during washing the fence? What psi would you recommend and should I put the cleaner in the pressure washer or apply it separately?
One last question, how do you recommend applying the stain? Any specific brushes, rollers or sprayer that work the best? Do I need to wipe of the excess?
Thanks so much for your help.
Hi Scott,
I found your website and appreciate all of the information. I have already learned a lot. We are struggling with a 20 year-old pine deck at a mountain cabin in North Carolina, zone 8a. Rain water and some mildew mainly a concern on side portion which is not roof protected. Otherwise, side and back get a fair bit of sun. We are uncertain about the current product that is on the deck, as we bought the cabin 3 years ago, but it looks like a semi transparent stain. Unknown brand and don’t know if it is water or oil based. We have cleaned the deck and plan to use brightener on it and then refresh it with a semi transparent or solid stain. We have replaced some boards with pressure treated pine and want to go ahead and do the deck now minus the new boards. We have hand sanded some areas.
1. Do we need to remove all of the existing stain that is still present in some locations of the porch where there has not been as much wear and tear?
2. What product would you recommend? Here We don’t care about seeing the grain of the wood since it is old but don’t want to run into more problems with something like a paint, which could potentially trap water and peel.
Thank you so much for your educational website and feedback!
Carol
If you want to use a semi-transparent, then you will need to fully remove the old coating by sanding and or stripping. The other option would be to apply a solid stain over the top but it will look opaque and nto show the wood grain.
Which do you prefer to do?
Ok, then we would want to do a solid stain. Any suggestions on color and brand of both the brightener and stain?
I personally would like it to “stand out “ a bit but will defer to any suggestions you have! The cabin wood color has a bit of a warm undertone.
It would be great to be able to use the brightener and stain all in one weekend since the cabin is a couple of hours away for us. I read of one product that you reviewed that allowed for application of stain even if deck was “damp”
Thank you so much for your generosity of time and help!!! Super rare these days!
Carol
Look at Restore A Deck for prep and solid stain.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-solid-color-stain-review/
Thank you in advance for your help and support!! Great website. I did read a lot of it.
Getting ready to prep and stain a redwood fence that is 1 year and 9 months after install. Never yet treated with any type of stain. I live in San Jose, CA
I have conflicting top priorities. Mostly, I want the best result and ease of maintenance! I am also chemically sensitive and want to use the most non-toxic cleaning/staining products, now and in the future, while still achieving quality result.
Questions regarding prep:
I tried Oxiclean solution, on one fence board and small portion of lattice, as touted on certain websites before finding yours (1/4 scoop to 4 cups water – stir, wet fence, apply with brush, let sit 5-10, scrub & rinse). It darkened wood, so I abandoned. Do you know why? See 6th board in from left on first photo.
After that I simply power washed and scrubbed with a brush. No cleaner. It came out pretty good as photos show. If I just stain “as is” rather than use cleaner and brightener, as you recommend, would I still get good result? Drawbacks?
I did not power wash lattice portion due to intruding on neighbors side yard. It has black streak marks from the staples staining. Options for removal? Can sanding suffice?
Which of the recommended cleaning products is the most non-toxic friendly? If you don’t use brightener, what happens after using cleaner?
How long after cleaning, can you wait to stain before having to clean again?
Thanks much.
-Oxiclean darkens/raises the pH of the wood. You must use a brightener after to restore the pH and lighten the color.
-The staples are rusting. You can remove some of the black with a brightener but they will continue to rust in the future. You cannot sand this out.
-You have to use a brightener after using the Cleaner.
Best options for cleaner and brightener are the RAD products.
Here are pictures of my porch steps from the top and then from the bottom.
URGENT HELP!
I live in rainy northwest Vancouver, and I have a west-facing cedar porch steps with risers that are 2 years old that had been stained with an oil alkyd hybrid from Cloverdale Shark Skin: translucent wood stain cedar tone (Canadian brand). It had faded in sun after 1st year, and 2nd year, trafficked areas had worn off.
Unfortunately, I decided to sand instead of using stripper (before I read your articles). I sanded EVERY OTHER step, and then my sander broke. I fixed it, but now I don’t really have time to do the rest because the rainy weather has set in. This week I have a VERY narrow window where there are 2 days (Thursday & Friday) of 70% humidity I can get stain down. What should I do?
Finish the prep and stain in the spring. You will be fine until then. Stay away from any Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes brands. They are all very poor.
Here is the deck
Hi Scott,
We have a “new construction” deck that has sat unstained for 2 years. Pressure treated 2 by 6 wood with no stain or coating on it. We see some cracking, minimal cupping, but boards are uneven in places due to poor construction. We recently replaced some of the worst boards. There is no mold or mildew. We have a power planer we have used in some spots to even out adjacent boards. We need to know if we should sand down the whole deck and/or power wash, then what type of stain for full sun. Appreciate your expert advice!
Let the new wood weather for 3-4 months, clean and brighten all wood, then stain with a penetrating stain like Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series.
Thank you for this site!!
Much older
It’s hard to tell – probably not
Switching
Unknown
None or unknown
Yes quite a bit – we’re using oxiclean with water and a little dish soap and a scrubber followed by light power washing to clean it – we’re doing several rounds of that to get it cleaned up. We live in upstate New York which is snowy, windy and rainy.
If it was stained, it has been at least a dozen years since it was cleaned or treated. We bought the house 9 years ago and don’t know the history of the deck.
Questions: Are we using the right mixture to clean it? What would be the best semitransparent stain to use?
Use a deck cleaner not oxiclean. A proper deck cleaner has additional ingredients that will aid in wood cleaning. We like the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit. Apply and pressure wash off.
For the best stains, see here:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
I live in northern CA and installed a three level redwood deck in full sun about 20 years ago. Prior to installation, I coated all surfaces with Superdeck oil based stain in redwood color. Two years ago, I decided to refinish the deck as the redwood had weathered considerably. I removed all the deck boards, flipped them over, and ran them through a planer to remove any old stain and expose a “fresh” surface. I then stained the “fresh” surface with TWP 1502 (redwood color). The results were very good even though the color was a bit on the orange side. The plan was to then restain one level each year to maintain the deck. This year I decided to restain one of the levels because the stain was beginning to wear off. I purchased some more TWP 1502 and tested the color by staining a few of the stair treads. I first cleaned the boards with a stiff bristle brush to remove any loose stain and dirt. The result was a very dark red color. I then sanded the boards to again expose a “fresh” surface. This time the color was lighter but still darker than the color from two years ago. Is there a way to lighten/brighten the stain so as to better match the color of the other
two levels?
You can lighten the TWP Redwood color by adding TWP Clear or Honeytone color to it.
Hi Scott,
We have a situation on our hands! We had a pressure-treated wood deck installed one year ago. We let it weather, cleaned it, and brightened it.
Before staining the deck, the contractor used Bondo to fill knots and any minor imperfection in the deck; more repair was done than necessary, in hindsight I would have done no repair.
He then tested the penetrating oil-based translucent stain (natural color) on a board and realized that the stain would not cover the grey Bondo… The stain only calls for one coat.
He then removed all the Bondo by hand (mostly scraping) and in the process used an orbital sander on the deck.
The next day (yesterday), he applied the stain. This led to multiple light spots all around most knots on the deck where the Bondo was removed and the deck was sanded.
I called the stain manufacturer, and they said it could be alright to try to add additional stain only to the lighter spots but to first test in a small area. I’d like the deck to look more uniform, and the staining was a big job that took two men a full day to brush on by hand.
Is this the best approach, or is there another path I should take?
Thanks for your help,
Liam
It will not work to blend by spot applying. The only way to get it even is to sand it all evenly and reapply. You will need to remove the current coating fully first, sand all wood evenly with 60-80 grit, apply a new ocating.
Thank you for the response. Is it alright if I wait to strip and sand until the spring, or is it better do it now? The deck has been through a lot in the last week – cleaned, brightened, filled, unfilled, spot sanded, etc. And this fresh coat of stain just applied. Any downside to waiting until spring? Will it weather unevenly, or will the lighter spots catch up to the rest of the deck?
No issues and would be easier to remove/fix in the Spring.
I have a 30 year old pressure treated deck. We recently bought the house and the previous owner only knows that they used a waterproofing stain. It is semi transparent, and wipes off with alcohol. It is a very large deck 12 feet off ground. We do not want to strip, we are in our 80s. I want to clean and brighten and use solid stain, but my husband is concerned it will peel. Half of the deck is covered by an awning and the rest exposed with a basic western exposure, so late beating sun.We live in south central Pa. All advice appreciated
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Post some pics for prep help.
See this for tips on how to coat this with a solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have read this, but it does not say how to prep over semi transparent stain. I want to avoid stripping but will clean thoroughly. My concern is can I do this and avoid a peeling situation. I would use Restore A deck solid
It is the same thing. Just make sure all current stain is cleaned, any peeling stain is removed, and the left over stain is fully intact before applying the RAD Solid stain.
I have a decent amount of decking that was stained by a recommended contractor with Proluxe (PPG) transparent matte SRD RE. Didn’t last a year and they didn’t prep properly as I observed when they came back to “fix” it and then quit. They pressure washed and then ghosted me.
Can I strip and brighten and try a new stain or will I need to sand?
Deck is 7 years old.
Pressure treated yellow pine. Virginia so heat, sun and rain.
Strip and brighten. Use the Restore a Deck Stripper with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
What do you suggest using if we like the natural look of the cedar but want a good protectant. The deck is 9 years old we used transparent cedar before but didn’t seem to protect enough. Thank you! The photo shows after power washing bare wood.
You need a proper penetrating semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hi Scott,
We’re wondering what we should do with this finish that is failing unevenly and boards are slightly gray. Our deets:
Thanks in advance!
Use the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper with both additives for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Brightener after.
What clear penetrating sealer can be recoated in two years without stripping?
Any penetrating sealer can be cleaned and recoated as needed. Try TWP or Defy.
FYI, clear sealers will gray and not provide UV protection. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
We are planning to re-stain our deck but unsure of preparation steps. Deck built new in 2021; stained same year with Cabot Semi-transparent Stain + Sealer. Will use the same shade to re-stain; focusing on the horizontal boards (deck, rail, steps). Deck is on east side of house; in metro Kansas City. And advice is appreciated. Thank you.
New Wood or Older Wood? 3 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes Cabot Semi-transparent Stain + Sealer (oil based).
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Will use the same brand and shade to re-stain
Mold or Mildew Issues? no
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? not sure
We would strip and brigthen this for prep so when you reapply, it stains evenly.
Should I clean and brighten? Or strip and brighten. I will be using the same product and color to stain. Transparent Cedar by Olympic. I do have some black stains that need to be removed
Clean and brighten of using the same stain and color.
Here are photos to a go along with my previous comment.
Strip and brighten for the prep. You need to remove the old stain for best results. You might want to try a different stain brand. This one has issues with attracting algae and mold. Plus, it has darkened in color over time. It looks like it may have been Penofinf, which has a known issue with this.
I will be staining my home in the upcoming weeks. House has an existing stain, but has not been coated in the past 5 years. I’d like to match the existing color, but do not know the brand that was previously used. There’s also significant mildew growth in some areas. The previous stain hasn’t failed any areas, but has began to dull in places. I am torn between using the stain remover and then the brightener, or just using a cleaner and then a brightener. Do you think the stain remover is necessary?
Thank you
New Wood or Older Wood? 10 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes TWP 116 Rustic
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Switching to a solid stain with a less orange color
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. TWP 116 Rustic
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil Semi-Transparent
Mold or Mildew Issues? NO
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Age, weather – it is time to re do the deck
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Strip and brighten this with the Restore A Deck Kits before using a solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I have 1100 square feet of deck with some additional vertical so adding that in it is about 1350 square feet of coverage. I am confused on the Restore-a-Deck coverage per gallon. is that coverage assuming 2 coats? For my project with 2 coats of Solid Stain Desert Taupe, how many gallons should I order?
About 12-14 gallons for the two coats on 1350 sq feet.
I built a new fence in June 2020, followed up with a summer of drying then cleaned and stained it Sept 2020 with the above stain. I wanted to do a maintenance coat to keep it looking good for years to come but most info applying stain says to strip the stain, then brighten and stain. My fence is in good condition overall, looks good from the street still but does have some dirt or maybe mold issues, see photos. I assumed I could just give it a good clean (not necessarily strip the stain) then brighten and stain with the same stain to keep the color similar. Although I liked the super deck stain, I see here it’s not highly recommended (not sure if it matters for fence vs deck, i think it worked fine) If I hold off till next year, I would buy the recommend stains. Based off my photos, what’s best way to proceed? Being the middle of August and in WA state, we have only a handful of good weekends left. Quite frankly I’m a busy every weekend this month and most of Sep so I am debating just waiting till next June/July to do the entire process. That would allow me to get all the supplies ahead of time, and plenty of nice weekends to get it done. Any advice is helpful and thanks for the time
Clean and brighten will work while pressure washing. It will remove the midlew/mold. Look at Restore A Deck Kits. Waiting until Spring is okay if needed.
New Mahogany deck looks dirty/splotchy after staining with Armstrong Clark hardwood mahogany stain. There was rain about 40hrs after staining.
It looks like it was not fully cured before the rain came. I’m curious. Did you let the new wood dry for 3 months and prep as AC instructs? It might be part of the problem if you did not.
It does not look too bad, though. We would leave it as is and do a clean and recoat next year.
Thank you for the info. Some of the boards were new and didn’t dry for 3 months, but it also happened on some of the old wood. I was thinking same about leaving til next year for clean and recoat.
Thank you again
What do I do about raised grain or grooves in the deck boards?
Deck is 15 yrs old
Has Sherwin Williams Super deck – Solid
I tried to sand it off, however the “grooves” prevent the sander from taking it all off.
The deck is in full sun all afternoon until sunset.
No mold or mildew.
The stain stayed, however the boards cracked in places.
You could try the RAD PaintStrip to get the rest of the solid stain out of the grooves after you finish the sanding:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Thank you!
Hi Scott,
I had a new cedar deck built in fall 2022 during very warm conditions in Pacific NW) and used Behr Premium semi- transparent, waterproof stain and sealer. Shortly after the first year it began peeling along with formation of mildew spores which both conditions have become extensive on all new deck boards and railing (primary damage) with some mildew forming on columns and posts. I’m hesitant to use the same brand, but would prefer to do so. I’m not certain why this stain failure has occurred as this product appears to be highly rated so may be improper application (??)
– new deck photo & current condition are attached
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Conditiion
Hi,
Behr has one of the worst ratings and consumer reviews on our site:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
On top of that, they lie about the opacity as it is not a true semi-transparent but closer to a semi-solid or solid stain in appearance when done. You can see this in your pics as it looks semi-solid. This leads to a huge pain to fix when the time comes, as it must be fully removed, and it can be very hard to strip off. You may need to strip and possibly sand this to fix this.
We would suggest the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Strip off as much as possible and then sand as needed to remove the rest. When you’re done, brighten everything.
If you don’t do this now and reapply the same Behr, it will be much harder to fix when it starts to peel again.
Thank you for your direction on this Scott. I wish I would’ve located your website before purchasing/applying the Behr semi-transparent stain. I definitely have my work cut out for me to remedy this.
New Wood or Older Wood?
– older wood (almost 30 yrs)
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
– Some in spots protected from the elements
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
– switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
– unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
– unknown but I’m guessing semi solid
Mold or Mildew Issues?
– no
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
– it just hasn’t been done in so long
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kits with both additives for the stripper.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
I have a deck that is 3 years old and made of treated pine. I have not seen any mold. The deck gets full sun all day. The deck has never been treated but we are planning on staining this fall. Looking for prep and stain input. Thanks!
Since it is full sun, look at a semi-solid color:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Hi Scott, this deck is cedar and was new in 2021. I followed advice from your site and asking questions to prep and stain it with water based Restore A Deck semi-transparent stain. The stain basically began coming off not too long after applying it despite following all your instructions to a T. I have no idea where I went wrong, but am now ready to tackle the deck again and fix it. So, where do I start? I plan to use an oil based stain with hopes that it will last this time, but want to be sure the deck is prepped properly for that. What oil based stain do you recommend? I’m also planning to re-coat the railings. Those were stained using Defy Extreme solid color water based stain and have held up fairly well except for a few spots of peeling. I’m planning to re-coat them using the same stain. What prep do those need for that? Thanks!
See this about the solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
The deck flooring would need a good strip and brighten. Use the RAD products. For stain, try Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series.
Thanks for the reply! For the railings & posts with the solid stain, I’m a bit confused. Do we really want to use a deck stain stripper on those? The stain is in pretty good shape (not peeling) on most of the railings & posts. If re-coating with the same product, I’m confused as to why we’d want to strip it off the areas that are in good shape?
Stripping removes what is loose or peeling; it will not remove all of the solid stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Hello Scott, we moved into our house about two years ago. Our deck shows having been stained before (I believe) but I have no idea what it was done with. What would you recommend? Some of it looks ok, some not. It does get sun all day. (I’ve found a deal on Cabot semi-transparent at a local habitat restore place. $12. Worth a try or pass?). Thank you.
You have an old semi-transparent stain. For prep, strip and brigthen. Looks at Restore A Deck Prep Kits. We would never use the Cabot. Look here for the best options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Ok, thank you. I appreciate your help.
I used the Restore a deck products. I’m very happy and hope it holds up well. Thanks for your help.
Last pic
Looks great!
Hello Scott.
We moved in here a year ago. This is an old treated wood deck that has always been left untouched. Could be 14 to 23 years old.
Most of the screws have come up a little so sanding is out of the question.
We would like to just have it last longer (grey is fine) while we save up to replace the boards which are still in not too bad condition.
The frame is in good shape. What might you recommend?
Regards and thank you for your insight.
Clean and brigthen for prep Look at the Restore A Deck Kits. Then stain with a semi-transparent stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Moved into the house and have no idea how long since the deck was stained etc.
What should we use on this deck to make it look nice again
Clean and brighten and then a semi-stransparent stain. Look at the Restore A Deck Prep Kits.
We have a 2 year old cedar deck that was just refinished. They did a horrible job. They prepped with bleach then power-washed. Then they applied 2 coats of Cabot Australian timber oil. The original finish was same product and turned out beautiful. We believe they didn’t allow enough time to dry after power wash and they applied 2 coats one on top of another only waiting a few hours between coats. Now we have a heavily coated, shiny, and tacky deck with weird discolorations everywhere. Including handrails. There are also spots that the wood is raising. Very upsetting. Regardless, at this point, we need to fix it. What would be the best process? We have 2 decks and a set of stairs that are in this condition. About 700 square feet total, plus the handrails. Thanks in advance for your time.
You will need to remove all and start over and this will not be an easy strip, as they over applied it and did not prep well. You may need to strip it a few times to get it all off.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thank you. We were afraid of that. I am guessing the link you provided is what you recommend we use? I am also guessing weather plays a part when we strip. We are in the Portland area and temps are currently in the high 90’s. Front deck is in full sun from noon until sunset and back is shaded after about 10am. Should we wait until it’s not so hot? Strip in shade? Thank you again. Appreciate your expertise and guidance.
Later in the day or first thing in am would be easier.
I have a redwood deck in Colorado Springs with no stain for 10 years and completely gray. should I just power sand or brighten and sand or clean, brighten and sand before staining?
Clean and brighten should be enough. Look at Restore A Deck Prep kits.
I used yellawood semi transparent deck stain and don’t like the color. Been 2 weeks. Do I need to scuff to redcoat a different color of the same brand?
Strip and brighten if you want to switch.
Hi Scott,
Looking to re-stain my deck. I last stained about 2 years ago with a water based semi-transparent stain. I want to use the TWP stain you recommend. Do I need to sand or strip what’s there? Thanks so much!!!
Mike
While the can says semi-transparent, what is actually on your wood is an opaque solid stain in appearance. Behr lies about their opacity. You will need to heavy Paint Strip or power sand to remove this if you want to use TWP. See this for tips. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Defy crystal clear on sanded redwood after deft brighter?
If you use the Defy Clear you will have to prep and recoat every year. If you want it to last longer than that, then you need a tinted color.
Penofin wood brighter on sanded old redwood deck prior to penofin stain?
Sure but there are better stains than Penofin as Penofin has known issues with darkening or turning black.
Hello Scott, thank you for all your advice and Info about deck treatment.
I was wondering if you could guide me on how I should prep my deck. It was installed on August 30th 2023 but I don’t know which type of wood it is. The chaps who installed it left a note that said “Wait a year, sand the deck with 120 grit and apply a water-based stain from Techniseal or Thompson.” Considering that I live in Canada, with cold weather and that the deck is installed on a roof directly exposed to sunlight, is this the right path I should take or should I reconsider some steps such as skipping the sanding?
No, they are wrong except for the waiting part. You have pressure treated pine. Clean and brighten for prep while pressure washing. You then want a penetrating semi-transparent stain. You are limited in Canada due to VOC laws. If ordering from the states, these product are VOC compliant for you: TWP 200 Series, Armstrong Clark Stains, and Restore A Deck Stains.
Scott, your article was incredibly informative. I value your expertise and would like to have appropriately treat deck stained/apted based on your recommendations.
It is three years old and constructed of KDAT wood. It has never been treated or stained.
A bit of green algae is on the edges under the cable railings. It is a large deck comprising three areas: a large outdoor deck exposed to the elements, an enclosed dining deck, and a covered fireplace deck. I also have a covered front porch. The outdoor deck is weathered and sits over a newly sodded area. So, I want to be sure whatever I use will not damage my grass. I also have a large oak tree hanging over part of the deck, which causes a black residue on that portion. I have been pressure washing it and admittedly have used cleaning products that contain bleach once (before I learned it was not a good idea). What are your recommendations for prepping and staining? I ordered color samples of TWP stain, but I wonder if that or Armstrong stains would work better.
Clean and brighten with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with TWP 1500 or Restore-A-Deck Semi-transparent. That tree is always going to be an issue with dirt. You will need to clean and recoat every couple of years.
Scott, I have a question, but first thanks for all the helpful content you post, your website has been a huge resource for me and my small painting business. I was about ready to give up on doing exterior staining jobs with all the film forming stains out there and no idea how to properly and restore the wood surfaces I was working with. Now I have used TWP (which is an amazing product) and am about to use Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent on the job I am about to describe (thanks again for all your help!):
The project is a fairly large pavilion made out of treated pine just installed about 4 months ago, it has not received any coatings up to this point. The ceiling is tongue and groove 1×6 boards and seems like it has a mill glaze on it, it is quite smooth (as opposed to the 6×6 posts which seem ready to take a stain). Would pre-wetting followed by a cleaner such as sodium metasilicate followed by oxalic acid and a good rinse, be appropriate to clean and remove the mill glaze before staining? Or should it be sanded with an orbital Mirka sander and 80 grit? Or would you suggest another route?
You are welcome, and I am glad you have found better stain brands!
Ceilings are a pain. They are hard to prep and challenging to stain. There are lots of drips, so cover the flooring and yourself well. As for prep, the cleaner and brightener will work, but the wood will still not be very absorbent, so take care to look for runs and drips. Sanding is overkill, in my opinion.
Attached is my ceiling in Armstrong Clark Natural.
Scott,
Thanks so much for a super quick and helpful response. I will give that a go and be sure to PPE and mask up! I’ll try to let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the picture as well, it looks great!
God bless,
-Will
You are welcome. Question: Do you have a business website? We are looking for real quotes from contractors in the field about any of the products we review. We would post the quote on our site and link back to the business website. Would you be interested?
Scott, we are currently working on a business website so I would certainly be interested in giving you a quote once we have it up and running!
Okay, just let me know.
Hi Scott. I found your website 7 months ago while my new deck was being built. I wrote you at that time because the person who was building it was planning on staining it right away. I was nervous about waiting because of all the rain and ice and occasional snow that we get during the fall and winter here is Portland Oregon. You reassured me that the wood would be okay and I stopped worrying.
So now I am planning to stain my deck in a few weeks and am nervous again when I look how my wood weathered.I will include pictures. The wood is no longer silky smooth when you run your hand over it. I think that was what was expected. But now you would get splinters in places. I read to just hand sand those places. But I’m concerned about where the wood was sawed over knots in the wood. The edges of the knots (I don’t know how to describe it well) are lifting up. I lifted up one a tiny bit so you could see what I mean. I’m afraid those edges could be caught on something and pulled up and broken off causing an indent in the wood. How do I fix areas like that? What is your suggestion for prepping and staining my deck? Thank you so much for your advice in advance. And thank you for making this website.
Clean and brighten for prep. If needed, lightly hand sand after to remove any splinters, etc. We would “break” out that piece of wood that is damaged. Do not use wood filler, they will not work for decking and exterior stains.
FYI, it is a deck and it is supposed to be somewhat rustic, not smooth like a hardwood floor. It will always have some roughness to it and that is okay.
Hi Scott. Could you tell me exactly how to “break” out that piece of wood that is damaged? I’m picturing pulling it up and peeling it back until it breaks off. Couldn’t it end up being a long piece that just gets thicker causing a deeper rut as it goes along? Or do I hold it down so just a short piece breaks off when I pull it up? Did that damage happen because it was exposed to too much rain or ice before it was stained? If so, that’s what I was worried might happen and I kind of regret letting it weather through the fall and winter and I don’t want to regret what I did.
I have one more question. After I clean and brighten my wood and then hand sand it in places to remove splinters, can I just spray it again with the garden hose to wash away the dust caused from sanding it in places?
Thanks.
Pull it back and snap or “cut” it off about 3-4 inches. Lightly sand afterward to remove any sharp edges.
The weather didn’t cause this, and if you could have stained it last year, it would not have prevented it. It happened because the particular board was having issues. You will continue to have boards go bad randomly over the life of this deck, and it is the nature of exterior wood.
Thank you for your advice. It was very helpful. I have learned so much from this website about decks and how to take care of them.
You are welcome!
This is the test patch with the stripper you recommended. Looks great! Now I have to wait for cloudy weather again
Awesome!