This post was updated on June 25, 2024
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2024
See my Deck Stain Facts section, which includes over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all your questions about deck staining, cleaning, and prep.
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your Deck is the most critical aspect of the restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping correctly can lead to premature stain failure and poor appearance results.
My 3 Easy Pro Steps to Decking Prep
- Determine your deck’s current condition.
- Understanding the 3 Main Ways to Prep a Deck.
- Unsure how to Prep? Ask me for Help!
1. Determine Deck Condition
How to best prep your Deck could vary on many scenarios:
- Is the wood new or old?
- Does it have a previous coating on the wood?
- Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time?
- When was the last time it was stained?
- What type of stain was it coated with before?
A better way to approach the deck prepping question is to ask, “What is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age?”
2. The three main ways to prep a deck are:
- Deck Cleaning followed by Wood Brightening
- Deck Stripping followed by Wood Brightening
- Power Sanding
- Or a combination of the above
Wood and Deck Cleaning Prep
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, deck cleaners typically do not remove old deck stains or paints. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed. See here for more Deck Cleaning tips.
My Pro Tip: Do not use bleach-based deck cleaners. They are bad for the doo fibers and your environment. Examples include Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. See Deck Cleaner Reviews.
Wood and Deck Stripping Prep
Deck stain strippers are designed to remove deck coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, semi-transparent stains, and some semi-solid stains. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a shine like a varnish cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance. See Deck Stripper Reviews. See here for more Deck Stripping tips.
My Pro Tip: If you have a Solid Stain, Deck Paint, or Varnish on your deck, you could try a Paint Stripper like the RAD PaintStrip to remove the coating.
Scott’s How To Strip A Deck Stain Video
Sanding a Wood Deck For Prep
I am not a fan of sanding a deck, but in some cases, it is needed as stripping may not fully remove the old coatings. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40—or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
My Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
3. What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
Deck Prepping Product Articles
Will this stripper take off solid stains as well? My deck is peeling paint and solid stain. My husband used a solid stain and a few years later a contractor used paint (he was supposed to re-stain it).
Deck Stain strippers will not remove a solid stain or paint. You need a paint stripper like the RAD PaintStrip:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Thank you!!
You are welcome!
I have have lightly sanded and replaced a few boards on a large deck located at 5600’ with 4 mo of snow. Used Armstrong semi trans last year which mostly disappeared. Recommendation?
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits ans stain again with AC or try TWP 1500 Series.
Thanks for the quick reply – are you a robot 😂. I’ve cut out some bad boards before finding your website and was going to replace with dry con s4s redwood. If I can’t find used material what do you suggest as I need to finish after applying restore a deck next week
I am a real person but my wife might agree about the robot question. 🙂
Have you seen this about new wood as it should not be stained right away:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
What is the best stainable wood filler for decks with your oil based stains A/C etc
Wood filler will not work for decking stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
Semi trans or semi solid
Neither.
So if neither which AC texture should I use? I have done my wood shake siding last year with a mix of cedar and brown
Which texture should I use if not the above? Transparent?
When I said neither, I was referring to the fact that wood fillers will not work with exterior stains, including semi-trans or semi-solids.
I am not sure what you are asking/implying after that, as your statement “Semi trans or semi-solid” was vague.
Scott, your site is awesome. Thanks.
Based on reading articles here, I expect I need to sand everything since I have solid stain. Correct? Once I do, is it an option to do semi-transparent or semi-solid?
And I read about RAD guard, but at this point if I sand, I believe that should take off the mold along with the paint. Let me know if you recommend removing mold and then sanding as a separate step.
Yes, you have a solid stain. Here are some tips.
You will need to sand and or use the RAD Paint Strip to remove:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Consider a two-toned deck. Solid for railings and semi-transparent for floors:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
It will be very difficult to sand/strip the vertical railings. Tips for recoating the solid stain on the railings:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thanks. One clarification: I think you’re saying to paint over the current railing stain. To prep for this, I will still need to use a stripper wherever the railing stain is peeling — I just shouldn’t try to strip it off entirely. Correct?
Much appreciated.
Not the same. Deck stain strippers will not remove a solid stain but will remove what is peeling and loose, prepping for recoating. To fully remove you need a Paint Stripper and sanding and that is much more work. You will have a hard time getting it off the railings fully the way it is built.
Ah, thanks for that important distinction.
Hi Scott,
The cleaner I used left my redwood deck white.Will using a brightener correct this? The wood is older and had a semi transparent stain on it.
Brighteners will not restore “white” from cleaninig. Staining the deck will help with this.
Hi Scott,
Appreciate all the info on the site and all your help with the comments here. Was thinking a wood cleaner. Then apply same stain. Is brightener recommended for this situation too after the cleaner and before staining?
New Wood or Older Wood?
3 years old. New deck in 2021
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes. Cabot Australian Timber Oil Natural Transparent.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Need advice. Was planning on a using the same brand and product above.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Cabot Australian Timber Oil Natural Transparent. Applied May 2022
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Oil. Transparent.
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Had spots of green algae. Used Dawn and water. Didn’t work. Hit it with some pool cleaner.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Age? Applied in May 2022
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer with prep for this year. Happy holiday weekend!
We would clean and then brighten.
Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated!!
Hi Scott,
We bought this house a year ago, and have been plugging away at all of the deferred maintenance. The deck is in need of attention. I recently power washed to remove loose pieces of the coating. It seems to also need a sanding (even more so after washing). Hoping it’s not too far gone that I’d have to use a resurfacer rather than stain, as I don’t want to be locked into the limited colors available. Could you please advise?
1. Older wood.
2. Solid stain? Probably 50% of it is worn off.
3. I’d like to apply a solid stain in a different color.
4. Unknown brand.
5. Unknown current stain type.
6. No mold or mildew.
7. Deferred maintenance.
8. Pics attached.
Any guidance you could offer would be appreciated. Thank you so much!
Shauna
See this article for tips on reapplying a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
You are very generous to share your expertise. I’m so glad I found your site!
Thanks again,
Shauna
Hi Scott, I want to put another coat of stain on my Colorado redwood deck, but I’m going to power wash it first. Any idea how many days I should wait for it to completed dry before staining. Temp are 60-70’s the next 4-5 days, then rain.
Depends on the stain brand but typically 48 hours after prep.
Hi Scott, thank you for your help. Old deck, probably 8 years old, just purchased the home so do not know much other than it was stained. Don’t think mold or mildew is an issue. I think a solid stain was used previously. My question is, do I need to use a stripper, cleaner or brightener on this deck or should it just be power washed, sanded and then a solid coat of stain reapplied? Any help would be great, thanks again for your site. So informative and helpful. Laura
You have a mixture of semi-transparent and solid stain . Easiest is to prep and redo with a solid stain. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
The see here for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Ok great, thank you Scott! So essentially I’ll need to use the RAD painstrip gel, sand and apply RAD solid stain…. correct?
You can use the regular RAD Deck stripper; you do not need the RAD Paint strip since you are reapplying a solid stain. The goal is to remove the peeling and loose stain, and then you can cover the intact stain.
Hello again, sorry one more question. I bought the DEFY stripper last Fall with intentions of re-doing my deck but it never happened. As you’ve identified the semi-transparent and solid stain on my deck, would the DEFY that I’ve already purchased be effective? Thank u!
You can use the Defy Stain Stripper for prep here for recoating with the RAD Solid Stain.
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
* Both. The new wood is the deck board. Everything else is older wood.
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
* Yes.
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
* Switching brands and color—switching to Armstrong Clark semi transparent cedar
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
* Behr waterproof
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
* Solid stain
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
* Maybe
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
* Chipping
8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
*
You will need to heavy strip and sand to get this solid stain off:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
It would be much easier to consider a two toned deck. that way you just need to remove the solid stain from the rest of the flooring. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
Does the stain need to be completely sanded off? I put the gel and then sanded. Seems like there a lot more paint left.
I was planning to do semi transparent Armstrong cedar color on the verticals.
New Wood or Older Wood?
Older wood, approximately 12 years old. Not 100% sure if cedar?
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes, not certain what it is.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
No
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Unknown?
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not that I’m aware?
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
West facing deck with no trees, substantial sun contact.
Strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit. As for the stain, look at a penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hi, I live in Seattle and have a 12×12 Cedar-selected tight knot deck that is 1 year and 9 months old. My deck gets morning shade and full sun remaining day. Deck is exposed to a lot rain, summer sprinklers, and nearby vegetation that drops debris on deck during the year. I tried Ready Seal twice (when deck was new and recent), and deck is only able to absorb one coat and coat only lasted a year. Ready Seal product says to use beach for prep, so that is what I used. I have had problems with fibers and fuzzies with prep. In the future (when deck is 3 years old or next summer of 2025) I want to switch to a different stain. Either TWP 100 series or Armstrong Clark stain. I like the natural look, so want to stay with light color stain, like honey. For my conditions, which would you use….TWP 100 series or Armstong Clark ? I would like to switch my prep to a Restore a deck stripper (w additive) and restore a deck brightener for prep, unless you suggest otherwise. I am somewhat new at this and trying to learn from my failures.
Both the TWP 100 Series and the Armstrong are excellent and would last about the same for your climate. If using TWP, look at the Honeytone color. If AC, look at Amber. Take into consideration that lighter colors will fade fsster than darker colors.
Your RAD prep is correct for the removal of the Ready Seal. No need for the additives. RS is easy to strip.
Your right about the lighter colors fading. If I would go one shade color darker, what color would that be for both TWP and AC? I forgot to mention that I definitely want to apply the stain with a hand brush. I assume one or two coats with either TWP or AC? Also, plan to apply RAD stripper with a Bristol hand broom, wash off with jet nozzle hose (intimidated by pressure washers …..68 year old female) and then spray on brightener with pump spray and wash off with jet nozzle hose.
TWP Pecan 120 and Armstrong Clark in Natural Oak. Two coats applied wet on wet for both brands.
I have replaced some bad boards on my deck- probably 30 years old. It is a combination of new and old wood. Previously used Olympic Elite Solid Stain and will use again, as it has done well. A little gun shy after a horrible experience with Restore. No mildew or mold issues. Trying to figure out prep for this deck with both new and old wood and finish.
Here are some tips.
New wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Recoating with a soldi stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have some RAD brightener left from complete strip/sand project /Defy 2 years ago and getting ready to do touch up overcoat with Defy. Any cleaners I can pick up locally that are compatible with the RAD brightener?
Not that I know of.
Hello! Thanks for being such a a helpful resource!
First time home owner dealing with 3 deck spaces… Back deck, front porch and side entrance. All of them are wood, built about 3-4 years ago, and to my understanding they’ve never been treated.
New Wood or Older Wood? Newish? 3-4 years
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? No current coating
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? N/A
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? None yet
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
I’m unsure if I need to sand this all to get a nice surface, and how I should deal with staining. Do all of the surfaces need to be stained, including underneath?
Could you post some pics in the comments for prep tips?
Let me know if these work
George, this is an easy one. Just Clean and Brighten for prep and then use a semi-transparent stain after. Look at Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-and-sealer/
You don’t think it needs to be sanded?
No, I don’t think it needs to be sanded.
Thanks! Does the link you sent include Clean and Brighten products/methods? Apologies if my questions are basic
See here for the prep to use:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
I’m now considering to use a semi-solid stain to have something more uniform, but I understand it’s best to use a penetrating stain (don’t want to have to strip/sand when it’s time to redo it in 2 years)…The deck is getting a lot of sun in the afternoon (I’m in Michigan)
Questions are:
1) How to prep it properly?
2) What would be a good semi-solid stain to use?
Thank you
For prep, use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
As for semi-solids, try penetrating semi-solids like the TWP or Armstrong Clark.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
FYI, MI went Low VOC last year.
So cleaner+brightener is not enough?….I need the stripper+brightener?
Is Armstrong-Clark low VOC (I assume it is since you recommend it) ?
You have to remove when switching. Stripping is just as easy as cleaning, just remove the old coating fully. TWP and AC semi-solids come in Low VOC.
If I keep the same stain (TWP semi transparent dark oak)…..I would just need to clean and maybe brighten? No need to use a stripper in that case?
Knowing the current look of the deck (color not very uniform(, will the semi-transparent cover properly, or I definitely need to go with a semi-solid or solid stain?
Yes, if keeping the same stain and color. You would get a more uniform appearance with the semi-solid.
Ending 1st year of new cedar deck. Initially stained with A/C semi-transparent. This is a South facing deck but has a lot of black mold on it. The mold started after ~ 4 months. I’m looking to do the 1 year maintenance coat. I plan on doing the clean/brighten cycle then re-stain.
Is this correct?
If I were to switch to a different brand sem-transparent would I have to strip the deck?
Is there any way to prevent the mold in the first place?
Clean and brighten if staying with same AC stain and color. Strip and brighten if switching. Some stain brands do better with mildew/mold. Can you upload some pics in the comments?
I am having difficulty attaching pics. I select the photos to attach and in the forum page upper right corner looks like it is doing something but there is no photo showing up in the reply
Testing photo upload.
That would happen if your pics are too large or your browser is blocking the uploads. Try making pics smaller in size and or a different browser.
The pics were to large…
This was a bit disappointing with the AC stain as it was rated pretty high as far in the mildew/mold department in the reviews.
I had 2 other ?? I forgot to ask:
I am not sure if that is mold or dirt from your trees, etc. sticking to the stain. If it is mold, you may have applied it during the pollen season. Pollen that falls on the deck while curing will attract mold and mildew.
Stripping AC is not that hard. Use this and make sure to brighen after:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
It’s hard to say about the opened stain. Typically shelf life is 1 year if opened.
I’m not sure when pollen season is but the stain was applied in the summer. It looked great when I was done and a few months after.
Is there a way to tell if it is dirt from trees or mold?
I wasn’t meaning if it is hard work using the stripper. I meant to say is the residue that I will be stripping toxic to everyting under the deck and be a mess to clean up.
What should I look for to determine if the stain is still good?
If I strip the deck what the water based stain be a better choice for me?
Does the dirt “wash” off with a little bit of scrubbing with water with dish soap? That would determine if just dirt sitting on top of the stain.
Look to see if the open stain mixes evenly without skinning or clumping.
If you strip, try the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent. Less chance of mildew or dirt sticking to the surface.
Thanks. Will the stripping be a mess to cleanup under the deck and is it safe for the lawn
Just rinse well when done. It does not harm the lawn.
I tried Dawn soap and water. It did indeed remove the ‘black stuff’ but it appears to have removed the stain. I’m not sure what to think about this. Does this mean the ‘black stuff’ is not mold/mildew? Why did it remove the stain?
Definitely not mildew or mold. You might be able to get away with a cleaner and brightener instead of the stripper as it seems it is coming off easily.
As for why it is coming off easily, I am not sure.
Scott, Many thanks for all your help. This is definitely the definitive source for deck stain and maintenance.
You are welcome. Post some pics when done.
Hi Josh, I am about to restore this deck for a client and need some advice… my initial thought was to sand off the existing stain that her dogs have scratched and to sand down some of the scratch marks if they aren’t too deep. I’m curious if this is the best method, and also curious how long the deck can sit after sanding before I apply new stain? It is about to be cold and rainy here and I’m worried about cure time, but I only have this week to do the sanding part. How long can it sit without stain until I can come back to it? Thanks!
Yes, you should sand this all off. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Make sure to use a penetrating stain for next time, not a filming stain as currently on the wood. Stain within two weeks of prep.
Hiya. I previously used Behr Semi-Transparent product on my deck (Behr did not hold up well). Will the RAD stripper work to remove this?
It should but you might need the Booster and Gel additives. Can you post pics in the comments of the current condition?
Can I stain a deck and fence that has been painted after stripping with a TW
P product? If so what process should I use. It is peeling badly but no mildew and we are in Wyoming so product needs to with stand very cold weather.
If you are able to 100% remove it then yes, you can use TWP after.
Hello- We purchased a house where the previous owner made some strange choices including covering a large portion of the deck with cement pavers. We did a quick (not very well done staining) of the portion not covered by pavers 2 years ago when we first bought the house and just recently discovered the section of the deck that has been covered with pavers. We are replacing some areas with new wood but for budget reasons most of it needs to stay the same wood for now.
Thank you in advance for your advice.
You will need a solid stain to get it to all match. See here for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
See here for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi Scott, First of all, thank you for providing this excellent public service!
I last restored my deck in late 2021. As you will see in the photos, it needs some work.
My answers to your questions:
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
Old redwood
2. Current Coating?
Yes
3. Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying same Brand and Color?
Same brand and color: TWP “Driftwood”
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
TWP “Driftwood”
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Don’t remember. I think Semi-Solid.
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not really.
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Wear and tear in traffic areas. See photos.
Question: Is there a way I can restore the traffic areas only?
8. Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
See below.
You cannot spot prep/stain as it will not blend. DSince it wore unevenly due to the traffic areas, you should strip (not clean) and then brighten. Stripping is no harder than cleaning, just remove the coating fully so when you reapply, you get an even application and appearance.
I’ll take this opportunity to ask about some benches next to the deck. (See photos.) They were built out of ipe (tropical hardwood) around 2008 and never coated, treated, or restored in any way. My feeling is that a good pressure wash will make them look great again. But then do I need to coat/treat in some way?
Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing. When done, stain with a hardwood stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stains/
Thanks so much Scott. Do I need to use a brightener after cleaning?
Yes.
I stained my deck last year with a waterbased stain. I want to wash the deck. Is dawn dish washing soap and water ok to use without harming the stain?
Hard to say for certain as it varies based on the stain brand and type. Try a test spot to make sure no reaction.
I have a bench that has faded and cracked pretty badly. I believe this is pinewood. I wonder what would be the right way to brighten, protect the wood and get it to a bit more brown shade. Something similar to the attached brown square.
Clean and Brighten with Restore-A-Deck Kits will restore the color. Stain with Restore-A-Deck stain in Light Walnut or Armstrong Clark Stain in Rustic Brown color.
I live in Southern California with a south west facing deck that gets a lot of full sun and coastal fog all year long. The deck is 18×26 ft redwood, built in 2021 and stained with semi transparent Cabot after it weathered for four months. It was properly prepped and sanded before using the semi transparent stain. This deck is attached to ADU rental making it difficult and expensive to do maintenance. Stain wore off in most high traffic areas after 18 mos. and photos show deck after recent power wash with no extra cleaning/brightening products.
My husband and I are having debate with my painter/contractor on whether to sand down to bare wood or no, and what to use to maintain UV protection that won’t need refinishing every 2-3 years. Hoping for something that lasts 5 years. Bids to redo our deck ranged from $4000-10,000! And wish we had used composite! Hubby wants to paint deck for lower maintenance but wondering if a semi solid or solid stain will be better than deck paint and last as long?
Pergola is already stained with Cabot semi-solid in Cordova Leather so looking for a lighter floor stain color that offers good long lasting coverage and UV protection. Also need to decide on whether another round with a cleaner/brightener is enough prep or if full sanding (painter recommended) is necessary. A few spots have stains from planters that may need a light sand, but no obvious mold or mildew.
Planter boxes were purchased online and appear to have solid stain on them. Ideally, would like to clean and prep these to better match deck.
Would appreciate advice on next steps and best products for longevity. Great site! Thank you.
Nothing lasts 5 years on a deck. 2-3 years is max and since you have to redo every 2-3 years, you want a coating that can be cleaned and recoated without the need for stripping or sanding.
At this point, you should strip and brighten for prep to remove all the old Cabot stain. Do not sand as this closes the wood grain pores, hindering the stain’s ability to penetrate.
Look at this for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Look at this link for the best penetrating stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hey Scott, I have stripped and sanded my PT deck and ready to stain with TWP semi solid once I finish with brightener. No rain for next week. My concern is the temps this week are in the low 60’s and fall into the mid to low 30’s in the evening. Then nothing but rain in the forecast the rest of March. I do not believe the evening temps are good for the cure time. Should I wait on using the brightener until I have a clear time when I can stain? Thanks
You are okay but do not apply if it drops below freezing the first night.
Thanks! Did the brightener today and will wait 48 hrs. Check the weather/temps and get it done.
Hi, I’ve been asked to redo a large fairly new deck in the beach area of SoCal. The deck was brand new about 2 years ago and the builder used Behr semi-transparent. It has failed significantly (badly peeling on most horizontal areas and mostly mildew on vertical). I’m planning to strip and neutralize but need your advice on what semi-transparent to use to hold up the best in our high UV but also high moisture/humidity environment.
Link to Google photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrdRh5gBQNEFrkpE8
For prep, use the Restore-A-Deck Stripper and Brightener kits with both Booster and Thickening Gel additives. As for the stain, try TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hi Scott, I’m really enjoying your site and the great work that you do. I’m working to restore a Redwood deck in Los Angeles, the stain was applied in May 2021, I’m not sure what kind it was but I’ve included a close up picture from May 2022, it had worsened from this time to now. We have already sanded all the flat surfaces, but not the vertical 4×4 posts or vertical aspects or underneath aspects of the railings. Was thinking to use RAD products, please let me know what you’d recommend for prep and stain. In particular, do you think I need to use stain stripping, or can I just use cleaner and power wash. Thanks!