This post was updated on May 9, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2025
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your Deck is the most critical aspect of the restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping correctly can lead to premature stain failure and poor appearance results.
3 Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these three easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Step 1: Determine Your Deck’s Current Condition
Before choosing how to prep your deck, consider:
✅ Is the wood new or old?
✅ Does it have a previous stain or coating?
✅ Are you re-coating with the same brand and color as last time?
✅ When was the last time it was stained?
✅ What type of stain or finish was used before?
Instead of asking, “How do I prep my deck?”, ask:
🛠 “What is the best prep for my deck based on its age and condition?”
Step 2: Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
Wood and Deck Cleaning Prep
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed. See here for more Deck Cleaning tips.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
Wood and Deck Stripping Prep
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a shine like a varnish cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance. See Deck Stripper Reviews. See here for more Deck Stripping tips.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews | Deck Stripping Tips
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
Sanding a Wood Deck for Prep
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
3. What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
Deck Prepping Product Articles
Will this stripper take off solid stains as well? My deck is peeling paint and solid stain. My husband used a solid stain and a few years later a contractor used paint (he was supposed to re-stain it).
Deck Stain strippers will not remove a solid stain or paint. You need a paint stripper like the RAD PaintStrip:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Thank you!!
You are welcome!
I have have lightly sanded and replaced a few boards on a large deck located at 5600’ with 4 mo of snow. Used Armstrong semi trans last year which mostly disappeared. Recommendation?
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits ans stain again with AC or try TWP 1500 Series.
Thanks for the quick reply – are you a robot 😂. I’ve cut out some bad boards before finding your website and was going to replace with dry con s4s redwood. If I can’t find used material what do you suggest as I need to finish after applying restore a deck next week
I am a real person but my wife might agree about the robot question. 🙂
Have you seen this about new wood as it should not be stained right away:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
What is the best stainable wood filler for decks with your oil based stains A/C etc
Wood filler will not work for decking stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
Semi trans or semi solid
Neither.
So if neither which AC texture should I use? I have done my wood shake siding last year with a mix of cedar and brown
Which texture should I use if not the above? Transparent?
When I said neither, I was referring to the fact that wood fillers will not work with exterior stains, including semi-trans or semi-solids.
I am not sure what you are asking/implying after that, as your statement “Semi trans or semi-solid” was vague.
Scott, your site is awesome. Thanks.
Based on reading articles here, I expect I need to sand everything since I have solid stain. Correct? Once I do, is it an option to do semi-transparent or semi-solid?
And I read about RAD guard, but at this point if I sand, I believe that should take off the mold along with the paint. Let me know if you recommend removing mold and then sanding as a separate step.
Yes, you have a solid stain. Here are some tips.
You will need to sand and or use the RAD Paint Strip to remove:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Consider a two-toned deck. Solid for railings and semi-transparent for floors:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
It will be very difficult to sand/strip the vertical railings. Tips for recoating the solid stain on the railings:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thanks. One clarification: I think you’re saying to paint over the current railing stain. To prep for this, I will still need to use a stripper wherever the railing stain is peeling — I just shouldn’t try to strip it off entirely. Correct?
Much appreciated.
Not the same. Deck stain strippers will not remove a solid stain but will remove what is peeling and loose, prepping for recoating. To fully remove you need a Paint Stripper and sanding and that is much more work. You will have a hard time getting it off the railings fully the way it is built.
Ah, thanks for that important distinction.
Hi Scott,
The cleaner I used left my redwood deck white.Will using a brightener correct this? The wood is older and had a semi transparent stain on it.
Brighteners will not restore “white” from cleaninig. Staining the deck will help with this.
Hi Scott,
Appreciate all the info on the site and all your help with the comments here. Was thinking a wood cleaner. Then apply same stain. Is brightener recommended for this situation too after the cleaner and before staining?
New Wood or Older Wood?
3 years old. New deck in 2021
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes. Cabot Australian Timber Oil Natural Transparent.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Need advice. Was planning on a using the same brand and product above.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Cabot Australian Timber Oil Natural Transparent. Applied May 2022
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Oil. Transparent.
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Had spots of green algae. Used Dawn and water. Didn’t work. Hit it with some pool cleaner.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Age? Applied in May 2022
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer with prep for this year. Happy holiday weekend!
We would clean and then brighten.
Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated!!
Hi Scott,
We bought this house a year ago, and have been plugging away at all of the deferred maintenance. The deck is in need of attention. I recently power washed to remove loose pieces of the coating. It seems to also need a sanding (even more so after washing). Hoping it’s not too far gone that I’d have to use a resurfacer rather than stain, as I don’t want to be locked into the limited colors available. Could you please advise?
1. Older wood.
2. Solid stain? Probably 50% of it is worn off.
3. I’d like to apply a solid stain in a different color.
4. Unknown brand.
5. Unknown current stain type.
6. No mold or mildew.
7. Deferred maintenance.
8. Pics attached.
Any guidance you could offer would be appreciated. Thank you so much!
Shauna
See this article for tips on reapplying a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
You are very generous to share your expertise. I’m so glad I found your site!
Thanks again,
Shauna
Hi Scott, I want to put another coat of stain on my Colorado redwood deck, but I’m going to power wash it first. Any idea how many days I should wait for it to completed dry before staining. Temp are 60-70’s the next 4-5 days, then rain.
Depends on the stain brand but typically 48 hours after prep.
Hi Scott, thank you for your help. Old deck, probably 8 years old, just purchased the home so do not know much other than it was stained. Don’t think mold or mildew is an issue. I think a solid stain was used previously. My question is, do I need to use a stripper, cleaner or brightener on this deck or should it just be power washed, sanded and then a solid coat of stain reapplied? Any help would be great, thanks again for your site. So informative and helpful. Laura
You have a mixture of semi-transparent and solid stain . Easiest is to prep and redo with a solid stain. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
The see here for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Ok great, thank you Scott! So essentially I’ll need to use the RAD painstrip gel, sand and apply RAD solid stain…. correct?
You can use the regular RAD Deck stripper; you do not need the RAD Paint strip since you are reapplying a solid stain. The goal is to remove the peeling and loose stain, and then you can cover the intact stain.
Hello again, sorry one more question. I bought the DEFY stripper last Fall with intentions of re-doing my deck but it never happened. As you’ve identified the semi-transparent and solid stain on my deck, would the DEFY that I’ve already purchased be effective? Thank u!
You can use the Defy Stain Stripper for prep here for recoating with the RAD Solid Stain.
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
* Both. The new wood is the deck board. Everything else is older wood.
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
* Yes.
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
* Switching brands and color—switching to Armstrong Clark semi transparent cedar
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
* Behr waterproof
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
* Solid stain
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
* Maybe
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
* Chipping
8. You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
*
You will need to heavy strip and sand to get this solid stain off:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
It would be much easier to consider a two toned deck. that way you just need to remove the solid stain from the rest of the flooring. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
Does the stain need to be completely sanded off? I put the gel and then sanded. Seems like there a lot more paint left.
I was planning to do semi transparent Armstrong cedar color on the verticals.
New Wood or Older Wood?
Older wood, approximately 12 years old. Not 100% sure if cedar?
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes, not certain what it is.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
No
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Unknown?
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not that I’m aware?
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
West facing deck with no trees, substantial sun contact.
Strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit. As for the stain, look at a penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hi, I live in Seattle and have a 12×12 Cedar-selected tight knot deck that is 1 year and 9 months old. My deck gets morning shade and full sun remaining day. Deck is exposed to a lot rain, summer sprinklers, and nearby vegetation that drops debris on deck during the year. I tried Ready Seal twice (when deck was new and recent), and deck is only able to absorb one coat and coat only lasted a year. Ready Seal product says to use beach for prep, so that is what I used. I have had problems with fibers and fuzzies with prep. In the future (when deck is 3 years old or next summer of 2025) I want to switch to a different stain. Either TWP 100 series or Armstrong Clark stain. I like the natural look, so want to stay with light color stain, like honey. For my conditions, which would you use….TWP 100 series or Armstong Clark ? I would like to switch my prep to a Restore a deck stripper (w additive) and restore a deck brightener for prep, unless you suggest otherwise. I am somewhat new at this and trying to learn from my failures.
Both the TWP 100 Series and the Armstrong are excellent and would last about the same for your climate. If using TWP, look at the Honeytone color. If AC, look at Amber. Take into consideration that lighter colors will fade fsster than darker colors.
Your RAD prep is correct for the removal of the Ready Seal. No need for the additives. RS is easy to strip.
Your right about the lighter colors fading. If I would go one shade color darker, what color would that be for both TWP and AC? I forgot to mention that I definitely want to apply the stain with a hand brush. I assume one or two coats with either TWP or AC? Also, plan to apply RAD stripper with a Bristol hand broom, wash off with jet nozzle hose (intimidated by pressure washers …..68 year old female) and then spray on brightener with pump spray and wash off with jet nozzle hose.
TWP Pecan 120 and Armstrong Clark in Natural Oak. Two coats applied wet on wet for both brands.
I have replaced some bad boards on my deck- probably 30 years old. It is a combination of new and old wood. Previously used Olympic Elite Solid Stain and will use again, as it has done well. A little gun shy after a horrible experience with Restore. No mildew or mold issues. Trying to figure out prep for this deck with both new and old wood and finish.
Here are some tips.
New wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Recoating with a soldi stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have some RAD brightener left from complete strip/sand project /Defy 2 years ago and getting ready to do touch up overcoat with Defy. Any cleaners I can pick up locally that are compatible with the RAD brightener?
Not that I know of.
Hello! Thanks for being such a a helpful resource!
First time home owner dealing with 3 deck spaces… Back deck, front porch and side entrance. All of them are wood, built about 3-4 years ago, and to my understanding they’ve never been treated.
New Wood or Older Wood? Newish? 3-4 years
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? No current coating
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? N/A
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? None yet
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
I’m unsure if I need to sand this all to get a nice surface, and how I should deal with staining. Do all of the surfaces need to be stained, including underneath?
Could you post some pics in the comments for prep tips?
Let me know if these work
George, this is an easy one. Just Clean and Brighten for prep and then use a semi-transparent stain after. Look at Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-and-sealer/
You don’t think it needs to be sanded?
No, I don’t think it needs to be sanded.
Thanks! Does the link you sent include Clean and Brighten products/methods? Apologies if my questions are basic
See here for the prep to use:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
I’m now considering to use a semi-solid stain to have something more uniform, but I understand it’s best to use a penetrating stain (don’t want to have to strip/sand when it’s time to redo it in 2 years)…The deck is getting a lot of sun in the afternoon (I’m in Michigan)
Questions are:
1) How to prep it properly?
2) What would be a good semi-solid stain to use?
Thank you
For prep, use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
As for semi-solids, try penetrating semi-solids like the TWP or Armstrong Clark.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
FYI, MI went Low VOC last year.
So cleaner+brightener is not enough?….I need the stripper+brightener?
Is Armstrong-Clark low VOC (I assume it is since you recommend it) ?
You have to remove when switching. Stripping is just as easy as cleaning, just remove the old coating fully. TWP and AC semi-solids come in Low VOC.
If I keep the same stain (TWP semi transparent dark oak)…..I would just need to clean and maybe brighten? No need to use a stripper in that case?
Knowing the current look of the deck (color not very uniform(, will the semi-transparent cover properly, or I definitely need to go with a semi-solid or solid stain?
Yes, if keeping the same stain and color. You would get a more uniform appearance with the semi-solid.
Ending 1st year of new cedar deck. Initially stained with A/C semi-transparent. This is a South facing deck but has a lot of black mold on it. The mold started after ~ 4 months. I’m looking to do the 1 year maintenance coat. I plan on doing the clean/brighten cycle then re-stain.
Is this correct?
If I were to switch to a different brand sem-transparent would I have to strip the deck?
Is there any way to prevent the mold in the first place?
Clean and brighten if staying with same AC stain and color. Strip and brighten if switching. Some stain brands do better with mildew/mold. Can you upload some pics in the comments?
I am having difficulty attaching pics. I select the photos to attach and in the forum page upper right corner looks like it is doing something but there is no photo showing up in the reply
Testing photo upload.
That would happen if your pics are too large or your browser is blocking the uploads. Try making pics smaller in size and or a different browser.
The pics were to large…
This was a bit disappointing with the AC stain as it was rated pretty high as far in the mildew/mold department in the reviews.
I had 2 other ?? I forgot to ask:
I am not sure if that is mold or dirt from your trees, etc. sticking to the stain. If it is mold, you may have applied it during the pollen season. Pollen that falls on the deck while curing will attract mold and mildew.
Stripping AC is not that hard. Use this and make sure to brighen after:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
It’s hard to say about the opened stain. Typically shelf life is 1 year if opened.
I’m not sure when pollen season is but the stain was applied in the summer. It looked great when I was done and a few months after.
Is there a way to tell if it is dirt from trees or mold?
I wasn’t meaning if it is hard work using the stripper. I meant to say is the residue that I will be stripping toxic to everyting under the deck and be a mess to clean up.
What should I look for to determine if the stain is still good?
If I strip the deck what the water based stain be a better choice for me?
Does the dirt “wash” off with a little bit of scrubbing with water with dish soap? That would determine if just dirt sitting on top of the stain.
Look to see if the open stain mixes evenly without skinning or clumping.
If you strip, try the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent. Less chance of mildew or dirt sticking to the surface.
Thanks. Will the stripping be a mess to cleanup under the deck and is it safe for the lawn
Just rinse well when done. It does not harm the lawn.
I tried Dawn soap and water. It did indeed remove the ‘black stuff’ but it appears to have removed the stain. I’m not sure what to think about this. Does this mean the ‘black stuff’ is not mold/mildew? Why did it remove the stain?
Definitely not mildew or mold. You might be able to get away with a cleaner and brightener instead of the stripper as it seems it is coming off easily.
As for why it is coming off easily, I am not sure.
Scott, Many thanks for all your help. This is definitely the definitive source for deck stain and maintenance.
You are welcome. Post some pics when done.
Scott,
I power washed the deck and re-stained with the remaining AC stain. The results were great, the deck looked new again. After about 1 month the deck started turning black again just like it did before and has gotten worse over the summer. I would like to redo the deck using the RAD dark walnut stain. What do I need to do for the best results? Thanks.
Strip and brighten with the Restore-A-Deck Kits.
I’m not sure I understand the RAD staining directions.
After using the stripper/brightner would I apply one or two coats of stain?
When it comes time to freshen the stain would I just wash and restain?
Two light coats applied wet on wet. The directions are on the RAD website. Clean and reapply when needed.
Scott,
I used the RAD stripper and brightner. The pic shows the result. Help!
adding the photo that was excluded from my following post….
Can you elaborate as to what you think the issue is?
some of the boards are all black others are partially on the ends
there is also this white stuff this morning that I thought was dew… I washed each half for 30 minutes with a garden hose when done
a close up of the blackness
You over-stripped, and that caused the furring.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
You also did not brighten fully, and that is the darkening.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
Redo with the brightener and leave on for at least 20-30 minutes. If you want to remove the furring, then see the first article.
Thanks Scott. Since my above note I had power rinsed the deck with the power washer using just water. It fixed a lot of the problems. As the deck finally dried the ‘black stuff’ is mostly going away. There is only a slight gray remaing. I don’t have any of the RAD cleaning stuff remaining. Can I just sand the remaining light grayish boards? I am going to rent a buffing machine and do the entire deck.
I checked the RAD instructions again and they say to leave the brightner on for 10 mins. Maybe they could reference your excellent article for the future.
After this I am going to use the RAD stain in 2 days, it is forecast to rain tomorrow. I plan to mist the deck with water then apply 2 light coats. Is this correct?
You cannot spot sand as that will lead to the stain not taking evenly where you sanded. Best to sand/buff all the flooring.
You can apply the RAD stain to a damp or dry deck. Not soaking wet.
I ended up power sanding with 60 grit. The RAD directions say 1 coat after this. So I’m confused again..1 or 2 coats after power sanding? This is 18 month old cedar that was previously stained.
1 coat if you power sanded is correct.
Hey Scott,
Finished up Monday afternnon. The deck came out ok, certainly much better than it was. I used 1 coat of RAD dark waknut, expected the deck the whole to be darker like the perpendicular board(looks true dark walnut in person). The pic makes the deck appear darker than it is. I think the darker board is that color because I had to go over it a few times when I was doing the butt ends of the other boards. Anyways, Thanks again for your expertise and help. Can’t wait to do the second coat for the true color on the entire deck.
Looking good. FYI, seconds coats must be applied wet on wet with the the Restore A Deck Dark Walnut. Not wet on dry.
I was aware that I cannot do a second coat now. I’m thinking this time next year. I had ordered enough to do 2 coats so I have plenty left over… When I do the re-coat do I have to do the RAD clean/brighten cycle or can I just wash it?
Clean and brighten is always best but you can use the prep at half strength. 2-3 oz of powder per gallon.
Hi Josh, I am about to restore this deck for a client and need some advice… my initial thought was to sand off the existing stain that her dogs have scratched and to sand down some of the scratch marks if they aren’t too deep. I’m curious if this is the best method, and also curious how long the deck can sit after sanding before I apply new stain? It is about to be cold and rainy here and I’m worried about cure time, but I only have this week to do the sanding part. How long can it sit without stain until I can come back to it? Thanks!
Yes, you should sand this all off. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Make sure to use a penetrating stain for next time, not a filming stain as currently on the wood. Stain within two weeks of prep.
Hiya. I previously used Behr Semi-Transparent product on my deck (Behr did not hold up well). Will the RAD stripper work to remove this?
It should but you might need the Booster and Gel additives. Can you post pics in the comments of the current condition?
Can I stain a deck and fence that has been painted after stripping with a TW
P product? If so what process should I use. It is peeling badly but no mildew and we are in Wyoming so product needs to with stand very cold weather.
If you are able to 100% remove it then yes, you can use TWP after.
Hello- We purchased a house where the previous owner made some strange choices including covering a large portion of the deck with cement pavers. We did a quick (not very well done staining) of the portion not covered by pavers 2 years ago when we first bought the house and just recently discovered the section of the deck that has been covered with pavers. We are replacing some areas with new wood but for budget reasons most of it needs to stay the same wood for now.
Thank you in advance for your advice.
You will need a solid stain to get it to all match. See here for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
See here for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi Scott, First of all, thank you for providing this excellent public service!
I last restored my deck in late 2021. As you will see in the photos, it needs some work.
My answers to your questions:
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
Old redwood
2. Current Coating?
Yes
3. Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying same Brand and Color?
Same brand and color: TWP “Driftwood”
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
TWP “Driftwood”
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Don’t remember. I think Semi-Solid.
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not really.
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Wear and tear in traffic areas. See photos.
Question: Is there a way I can restore the traffic areas only?
8. Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
See below.
You cannot spot prep/stain as it will not blend. DSince it wore unevenly due to the traffic areas, you should strip (not clean) and then brighten. Stripping is no harder than cleaning, just remove the coating fully so when you reapply, you get an even application and appearance.
I’ll take this opportunity to ask about some benches next to the deck. (See photos.) They were built out of ipe (tropical hardwood) around 2008 and never coated, treated, or restored in any way. My feeling is that a good pressure wash will make them look great again. But then do I need to coat/treat in some way?
Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing. When done, stain with a hardwood stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stains/
Thanks so much Scott. Do I need to use a brightener after cleaning?
Yes.
I stained my deck last year with a waterbased stain. I want to wash the deck. Is dawn dish washing soap and water ok to use without harming the stain?
Hard to say for certain as it varies based on the stain brand and type. Try a test spot to make sure no reaction.
I have a bench that has faded and cracked pretty badly. I believe this is pinewood. I wonder what would be the right way to brighten, protect the wood and get it to a bit more brown shade. Something similar to the attached brown square.
Clean and Brighten with Restore-A-Deck Kits will restore the color. Stain with Restore-A-Deck stain in Light Walnut or Armstrong Clark Stain in Rustic Brown color.
I live in Southern California with a south west facing deck that gets a lot of full sun and coastal fog all year long. The deck is 18×26 ft redwood, built in 2021 and stained with semi transparent Cabot after it weathered for four months. It was properly prepped and sanded before using the semi transparent stain. This deck is attached to ADU rental making it difficult and expensive to do maintenance. Stain wore off in most high traffic areas after 18 mos. and photos show deck after recent power wash with no extra cleaning/brightening products.
My husband and I are having debate with my painter/contractor on whether to sand down to bare wood or no, and what to use to maintain UV protection that won’t need refinishing every 2-3 years. Hoping for something that lasts 5 years. Bids to redo our deck ranged from $4000-10,000! And wish we had used composite! Hubby wants to paint deck for lower maintenance but wondering if a semi solid or solid stain will be better than deck paint and last as long?
Pergola is already stained with Cabot semi-solid in Cordova Leather so looking for a lighter floor stain color that offers good long lasting coverage and UV protection. Also need to decide on whether another round with a cleaner/brightener is enough prep or if full sanding (painter recommended) is necessary. A few spots have stains from planters that may need a light sand, but no obvious mold or mildew.
Planter boxes were purchased online and appear to have solid stain on them. Ideally, would like to clean and prep these to better match deck.
Would appreciate advice on next steps and best products for longevity. Great site! Thank you.
Nothing lasts 5 years on a deck. 2-3 years is max and since you have to redo every 2-3 years, you want a coating that can be cleaned and recoated without the need for stripping or sanding.
At this point, you should strip and brighten for prep to remove all the old Cabot stain. Do not sand as this closes the wood grain pores, hindering the stain’s ability to penetrate.
Look at this for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Look at this link for the best penetrating stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Hey Scott, I have stripped and sanded my PT deck and ready to stain with TWP semi solid once I finish with brightener. No rain for next week. My concern is the temps this week are in the low 60’s and fall into the mid to low 30’s in the evening. Then nothing but rain in the forecast the rest of March. I do not believe the evening temps are good for the cure time. Should I wait on using the brightener until I have a clear time when I can stain? Thanks
You are okay but do not apply if it drops below freezing the first night.
Thanks! Did the brightener today and will wait 48 hrs. Check the weather/temps and get it done.
Hi, I’ve been asked to redo a large fairly new deck in the beach area of SoCal. The deck was brand new about 2 years ago and the builder used Behr semi-transparent. It has failed significantly (badly peeling on most horizontal areas and mostly mildew on vertical). I’m planning to strip and neutralize but need your advice on what semi-transparent to use to hold up the best in our high UV but also high moisture/humidity environment.
Link to Google photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrdRh5gBQNEFrkpE8
For prep, use the Restore-A-Deck Stripper and Brightener kits with both Booster and Thickening Gel additives. As for the stain, try TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hi Scott, I’m really enjoying your site and the great work that you do. I’m working to restore a Redwood deck in Los Angeles, the stain was applied in May 2021, I’m not sure what kind it was but I’ve included a close up picture from May 2022, it had worsened from this time to now. We have already sanded all the flat surfaces, but not the vertical 4×4 posts or vertical aspects or underneath aspects of the railings. Was thinking to use RAD products, please let me know what you’d recommend for prep and stain. In particular, do you think I need to use stain stripping, or can I just use cleaner and power wash. Thanks!
Hi Josh,
You will need to strip and brighten this deck for prep. Use the RAD Stripper with both additives while pressure washing and then Brightener when done.
As for the stain, you can use the RAD Semi-transparent stain or look at Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thank you for the quick response! Is RAD Stain Stripper sufficient or do I need the Paint version? Also, How should I think about the decision to go with RAD (water-based) vs Armstrong (oil-based)? Thank you!
Send some pics of the verticals that have not been stripped.
Here’s a pic of the unstripped vertical. Let me know what you think! Also, let me know how to think about whether I should do an oil-based Armstrong or the water-based rad product. Thank you!
Josh, the pic did not post.
Try this
No pics. Either you are using pics that are too large or of an incorrect file type. Pics need to be less than 4 mb and a jpg, png, gif, etc.
I cropped it to reduce file size, thanks!
Got it. The picture looks deceiving. The left side looks like a semi-transparent that should come off with the RAD Stain Stripper and both addtives but the right of the post looks like an opaque stain which means you would need the Paint Strip. It could just be the reflection.
We would go with the RAD Stain Stripper and addtives. Apply, let dwell for 30-60 minutes (keep from drying out if needed by misting) and pressure wash off.
Use the RAD Semi-transparent stain in Light Walnut or Cedar when done. it should blend any old stain if you do not get 100% off. Pics here:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-and-deck-stain-photo-album
Make sure to go over the flooring as well with the prep products and pressure washing.
Hello – I have new (6 months) Cedar posts and Cedar Tone wood used for a privacy (slats). I will be staining using a semi-transparent (per your guidance) to protect mostly from UV. don’t want color change. My question – I will use a cleaner but is a brightener necessary? I decided to use Defy Ultra for the stain.
Best to use both the Cleaner and the Brightener. We would suggest the Defy Extreme over the Ultra for new wood. Better penetration:
https://www.deckstain.com/defy-extreme-stain.html
I have white cedar siding on my home in New England that is about 8 years old. In 2018/2019, you recommended TWP 1500, clear, as well as another product that was water-based that I can’t recall. I went with the TWP, which did a nice job of repelling water. However, there is a great deal of mold/mildew. I would like to go with another product (that is clear. I like the look of the natural wood) that minimizes the mildew, etc. What do you recommend?
You are okay with it graying naturally with a Clear?
Yes that isn’t a problem. I actually prefer some graying.
Look at the Defy Extreme Crystal Clear:
https://www.deckstain.com/defy-extreme-clear.html
Much better with mildew protection.
Thanks for the quick reply
Hello,
I would love your advice on my small deck.
-It is only 6 months old.
-I used Olympic Waterguard. 1 coat 3 weeks after installation & then another coat about a month ago because it looked splotchy & faded.
-There are also cracks running along a couple of the boards.
I am looking at the RAD products as I would like to protect it and gave a richer color.
I took a photo of the underside of the deck, which still has the nice color.
-Should I use the RAD stripper & brightener?
-Can I fill in the cracks with wood putty?
-If I use the RAD stain what color is closest to the original redwood?
Thank you so much!
Strip and brighten for prep. Never use wood fillers on a deck. They will not stain to blend. Might want to get some RAD stain samples to test the color.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-samples.html
Hi and thanks for such an informative site! We have an IPE fence that is approximately 1 year old, which we are looking to re-stain as the IPE Oil stain has faded considerably since the fence was constructed. I would consider re-using IPE Oil, although going with a lower VOC product (like RAD or Armstrong Clark) is appealing if they perform similarly since the IPE Oil made our whole property stink for a week and I don’t relish the idea of experiencing that again (especially if we re-stain annually).
Assuming we switch products, what prep would your recommend for our fence? The surface is somewhat rough to the touch and the painters we have spoken with have suggested sanding it as part of the prep process. Would the process differ if we went with an oil based vs a water based stain? How would the process differ if we decide to use IPE Oil again instead of switching stains? Thanks!
1. New Wood or Older Wood? ~1 yr old IPE
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Undecided
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? IPE Oil, applied prior to construction
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil Based, Semi-Transparent
6. Mold or Mildew Issues? No
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Time and sun exposure? My understanding is none of these stains really last more than about a year on IPE, so the current state is not unexpected. I don’t actually think it looks that bad, but it is much lighter than it originally was and I assume we should re-stain it now rather than waiting.
Strip and brighten for prep. Look at the RAD prep products. You have to do this no matter what. As for the stain, your best option is the RAD Stain in Ligh Walnut. BTW, low VOC does not mean low odor. The RAD will have a lower odor than IPE Oil or the AC stain.
Thanks for the informative site! Question about re finishing a deck that has large areas of old red (not black)rust stains from an irrigation system that had high iron content in water. (See pic)
Answers to your questions:
1. Old wood that is in good condition except for graying and red rust stain
2 – 6 Deck has been treated (not apparently stained) previously but with what is unknown. (A simple water seal?) It has a natural finish and that’s what the owner would like to preserve.
6. No mold, mildew issues
7. Just showing the effects of UV exposure I think.
Not sure if that red will come out so you may be stuck with a solid stain to cover it. Look at a 2 toned deck:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Not sure how to prep or stain this Wisconsin deck. We liked the color and transparency of the first stain we put on after moving in (Behr Semi-Transparent Waterproofing Wood Stain, Cedar Naturaltone #3533), but it was hard to put on evenly. The second time the big box store sold us the “same product” in a different brand. It was more opaque, too orange, and didn’t last as well. But it did seem to keep the mildew at bay much better.
Questions:
What do we need to do to prep the deck? Deck cleaner only, or deck cleaner and stripper?
Do you have a suggestion for stain type and/or brand? Looking to keep roughly similar color, but more transparent if it won’t look weird over current patchy stain.
First picture is more representative. Second two pictures are high traffic areas. Last picture is the last stain used.
What you have now is opaque. You will need to heavy sand and strip this off with a paint stripper to get all the current coatings off. See here for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Hi Scott, I love your website, it was a huge help when we had to recover our new deck only 1 year after we stained it using a bad product (recommended by the contractor who built our deck).
After this debacle, we sanded the deck to remove all the flaky stain and applied the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. Then used TWP 1500 Series in May 2019 and now I really should be applying a maintenance coat ( it probably should have been done last year). I want to use the same brand/same product/same color but I am not sure about the preparation. I was planning on only sanding with 60 grit sand paper and then rinse it with water? Please advise: is the sanding unnecessary and I should only use a deck cleaner + brightener? Or does the old coat need to be sanded because of the UV greying?
To answer your questions:
Use the Gemini Kit again while pressure washing. Do not sand.
Thanks a lot for your quick answer. I do not have a pressure washer. If I apply the Gemini cleaner and brush it with a deck scrub brush, would that ok too?
Much easier and more effective to use a pressure washer. Best to borrow or rent one if you do not have one. Scrubbing will not turn out as well.
Hi Scott! So glad I found your website! I have read through a lot and watched the youtube videos. I have a few questions to make sure I am on the right path.
We bought new cedar for our deck 3 years ago. It is cedar select tight 1 knot. “Our guy” stained it with Olympic Maximum stain and seal, espresso color. One coat. He is excellent in all the work he does!!! He has done everything for us. The deck staining, though, just didn’t turn out nice at all. He said he wasn’t sure what went wrong. I’ve been reading about prepping new wood, and not sure he did that.
Anyway, I want our deck to look better and enjoy it. It is a wrap around porch with an extension for bbq, dining, sitting, etc. It is all completely covered, except the steps up front and part of the side of the extension. I’m attaching pictures. 🙂
1. Since it is espresso color (dark), do you think the Restore a Deck stripper and wood brightener are enough to have a clean surface to start all over?
2. What do you think went wrong (picture 2 specifically) with the initial application? It never looked even (they sprayed and went over to with a pad). It had this soapy residue that hasn’t ever seemed to come off even with several sweeps, scrubs, pressure washing. It looks and feels dull. Not at all what we were expecting.
3. Picture 4 shows the drips. Should we focus on removing these as well? We plan to restain with a darkish color again. Is this a normal look, or do people hand paint them, etc?
4. Picture 3 shows area exposed to the sun. It completely strips off with a pressure washer, even softly and from a distance. Is this normal for stain? If I pressure wash the house, it does not strip the paint in the slightest.
We are in the Seattle area.
Thank you for any help!!!
Two things went wrong.
1. He did not follow directions for new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
2. He used a poor stain brand. Instead of being a penetrating semi-transparent, the Olympic goes on like a paint. Hence the thick color that is almost opaque and the drips.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/olympic-maximum-stain-sealant-in-one-review/
Your issue now is the full removal (you cannot stain over this with a penetrating stain) of the stain. It will not be an easy strip in the covered areas and may require power sanding as well. We would suggest stripping off as much as possible and then sanding the rest off. In the areas where it is deteriorated, use the Restore A Deck stain stripper with both additives. In the areas that are covered, you may need the RAD Paint Strip.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Remove as much as possible and then sand the rest if needed:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Once fully prepped, use a penetrating stain like the TWP 1503 Dark Oak or the 1504 Black Walnut.
Thank you so, incredibly, much for your thorough reply!!! I am have asked at several stores and have not received such clear advice as yours. I really appreciate it!!!
Welcome!
Hi Scott, we jut bought a house with a 16-year old 24’x12′ deck that’s in fairly good condition but needs some work. The stain is partially faded and the wood is rough and cracked/splintering. There’s even mushrooms growing out of a few boards! I am planning to pressure wash and sand before staining, but was wondering if I still needed cleaner, stripper, or brightener if I am sanding everything down. Thank you for your help!
Older wood (from 2007)
Current Coating: Partially stained
Switching Brands of Deck Stain
Deck Stain Brand previously used: unknown
Current Deck Stain Type: Semi-solid, I think.
Mold or Mildew Issues: Black mildew under railings, orange fungus growing out of some boards
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Foot traffic, lack of maintenance
Strip and pressure wash first. Sand off any remmants that cannot be stripped. Brighten last.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Hi, I have a cedar deck about a year old that was finished with a light coat of TWP 100 series. After a monumental winter up here in Tahoe, there are some black spots or rings from a couple chairs that were left out. Can I clean, Brighten, then re-stain? Will the cleaner take out some of the black marks from the chair sitting in one spot?
That is rust. You should strip and brighten for prep. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener kits.
Hello- Help. We have used RAD products before for our covered front porch (with semi-translucent stain) and had success. Today we are using the regular RAD stripper and brightener for the floor of the back deck (not doing the uprights and top rails). However, the old stain is not really coming off easily and I think maybe I was not attentive to the old stain- and we needed the heavier duty RAD PAINT STRIP AND SOLID STAIN STRIPPING GEL? That is, our old stain was a solid stain vs. semi-translucent? some pictures are attached. The pictures show how it is looking after a pass with the power washer and some hands and knees scrubbing…As you can see in the pictures, there is still persistent stain in the grooves and some is quite thick still in some areas- softened a bit but still stubbornly attached to the wood. The one picture w/the flooring near the house wall was not yet power washed, but that area experienced little wear and the stain/paint is quite thick there.. . The thing is I feel like I’m scrubbing too much and raising the nap of the wood (if that is the right word)…
}New or Older Wood – deck floor maybe 10 years old (we are not doing the uprights or top rails) – but last stained about 5 years ago
}Deck have current coating – yes – I think it is a solid stain (but my records said semi-translucent duck back velspar?) done about 5 years ago
}Switching brands? Yes – we have purchased and want to use the RAD semitranslucent cottage grey
}Current deck stain type – again – I am not sure; my old records that it is semi-translucent duckback velspar tinted – not sure if oil or latex based…
}Mold or mildew: some not much
}Reason for stain failure: age?
Questions:
1. Yes you have a solid stain so the RAD PaintStrip is correct.
2. You will not damage the wood if using proper technique.
Thank you, Sir! Off to order now!
Welcome!
New Wood or Older Wood? This deck has 2 parts. The first part is estimated at 32 years old and the second part is currently 21 years old. The newer deck is a ramp and off the main deck. Seen to the Right of the one image attached to the old one. First 2 images are of the original deck with the stain remanence on it. Also the stairs off the main deck are less than 10 years old.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? The older deck has a stain. Looks solid. Some has not come off hence the sanding you can see in the pic. The newer portion of the deck(21yrs) has no stain. And has been pressure washed multiple times.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?it would be a different brand likely. I used Olympic transparent on the back deck and want to do so on the front. I quite like it as the back deck only needs a maintenance coat. Because there are 2 types of wood here I’m thinking honey ish colour so it’s not so obvious that it’s different woods. I know Olympic is a newer brand and so it would not likely be the same.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
unknown really
Mold or Mildew Issues? The newer part does have some mold/mildew not sure which even after pressure washing
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Dunno my guess is it’s old. Didn’t matter cause the newer deck needs to be done be nice if it semi matches which it won’t completely cause I think it’s different wood. Newer deck was pressure treated wood.
Sand off the solid stain that is left and then clean and brighten all wood after.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am defiantly sanding all of the old deck as that’s already begun and it won’t look nice if I stop. The newer part I could not sand but it has been pressure washed multiple times by my husband and never completed, so the wood is all torn up. Like sliver worthy and no stain and sealant can fix that. I did get 2 slivers today. Is it not a good idea to get rid of the not so nice wood?
Or will the clean and brighten do this for the wood?
With my idea I’d going honey, will the clean and brighten get rid of the grey and dingy?
Clean and brighten are all you need for final prep. If you have some slivers here and there, you can lightly hand sand them off first.
How best can I prep this deck to be stained with oil based product?
You have a solid stain so easiest is to prep and recoat with another solid stain. They only come in water based:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Hello, I recently (1week ago) built and finished my deck and stained it with Behr Transparent penetrating oil wood finish. I stained it and of course it started raining very heavy after 8-9hrs. The wood I used is pressure treated cedar. What should I do now? Reapplying the stain or should I sand it and wash it and then reapply the stain or should I strip it? Thank you!
You cannot stain new wood right away: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Strip and brighten to remove it and then follow the directions for new wood weathering and prep.
Hello,
We have a new deck that was just stained with semi-transparent oil based Benjamin Moore stain. This took two days. It started raining on the second day and there are a few white spots starting to form in certain places.
Questions are as follows:
Any other advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
We cannot offer proper advice unless we can see some pics. Please post them in the comments.
I have an ipe deck that has been allowed to grey. Every year or two I give it a light power wash to keep it clean. I’m considering using RAD to bring it back and then stain it with RAD. What color should I use? How often will I have to either use Step1/2 and reapply? Or, can I just reapply every year or two?
You always have to prep when recoating and IPE wood will require annual maintenance. RAD in Light Walnut looks great on IPE wood.
A company just refinished my deck by power washing, sanding and staining with an oil-based transparent redwood stain. (Deck is redwood and was built in 2015.) Several boards are blotchy, and the company says it’s the boards–not anything they did. From what I’m reading here, I don’t totally believe them. I’ve attached a couple of photos and would appreciate your advice on how to get this fixed. Thank you.
In this scenario, we would agree with the contractor. Stain can absorb differently based on the wood density of each board. If it was application, it would have more distinct line from the applicator they used.
Thank you–I greatly appreciate your fast reply on this. Any suggestions on how to prevent this next time?
It cannot be prevented. It is the way the wood is taking the stain. For example, knots almost always turn out lighter in color.
New Wood or Older Wood?
I believe older wood
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
Unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
I have no idea
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Not that I see
Reason for Previous Stain Failure
Unknown
How should I go about removing this old stain to get it ready for new?
It is hard to tell from your pictures but you may have a solid stain (beige in color) under all that dirt and grime. Can you determine if that is true?
I can’t. Its not my personal deck, but it seems like that’s just the original wood underneath(of course you’re the professional here). Unfortunately the owner of the deck knows just about nothing about it.
Strip and brighten for prep to determine if natural wood or a solid stain under. You will know when done if you can use a penetrating stain or have to go with a solid stain after. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener Kits for the prep while pressure washing.
Looking to restore as best I can, an older mahogany deck built around 2000, unsure of previous treatments. Looking for how to prep(read many articles still unsure about stripper and sanding) sanding could be tricky as some boards aren’t completely level and very large deck. Also looking what stain with. Mostly full sun. Thank you in advance!
Try the Restore a Deck Stripper and Brightener kits for prep. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain in Light Walnut or Armstrong Clark Stain in Amber or Mahogany:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/hardwood-deck-stains/
Is the wood new or old? Mostly old (with a few new boards). House (and possibly deck) built in 1995.
Does it have a previous coating on the wood? Yes
Are you re-coating with the same brand and colors as last time? Unknown
When was the last time it was stained? Unknown
What type of stain was it coated with before? Unknown
What is the best deck prep for my deck due to its current condition and age? Do we stain or paint? Looking to go darker color to more easily hide any future mildew
You have a solid stain. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Older Redwood, 15 years. Previously had Semi-transparent stain. I used stripper, then brightener, powerwash, then I sanded it with 50 then 80 grit. I thought I was ready to stain after the sanding, but I read in the article, “Why sanding a deck can be an issue” that
“A good wood stain finish always starts with the correct sanding preparation. It is important, to begin with, a power sander …no more than 60 or 80 grit paper.
The next step is to clean the wood thoroughly after the sanding. Deck cleaners, also known as deck wash are used to lift dirt and unsightly mildew which accumulates over time”
This is suggesting ANOTHER deck cleaner AND brightener treatment AFTER my sanding? is this correct? Thank you!
Yes, it opens up the wood pores after sanding so your stain can penetrate better.
Thank you, the cleaner/brightener won’t make the wood too “fuzzy” (the main reason I started the sanding in the first place)?
Also, see below, I read this on another forum, but I’ve never heard of applying a “sealer” over a stain?
Bottom line: A combined stain-and-sealant product offers durable moisture and UV protection with little downside. Short of this 2-in-1-type product, you can always apply a stain to the deck and, after 48 hours, apply sealant to achieve a similar level of protection.
You want the wood porous and slightly rough, not sanded to smooth. You cannot apply a sealer over a stain, it would peel. Bob is clueless when it comes to decks 🙂
Hello,
I have a western red cedar deck that’s about 8 years old now. Maybe 6 years ago I switched to TWP 101 and have re-applied it at least twice. I want to switch to a water-based product, namely RAD’s Semi-Transparent. The order of steps I plan to take are 1) strip using RAD Stripper and Thickening Gel, 2) do some orbital spot sanding if need be, 3) brighten after stripping and sanding with RAD Brightener, 4) apply new stain. Is this the correct order steps?
Yes, that is correct. You probably do not need to sand. TWP is an easy product to remove.
New Wood or Older Wood?
– OLDER
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
– YES
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
– MAINTENANCE COAT / RECOAT DUE TO THE DECK BEING IN REALLY ROUGH SHAPE
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
– BEHR 501 – CEDAR NATURALTONE EXTERIOR WOOD TRANSPARENT FINISH
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
– 100% WATER ACRYLLIC WATER BASED TRANSPARENT
Mold or Mildew Issues?
– SOME, NOT TERRIBLE. WE LIVE IN A HOT AND DRY CLIMATE
Reason for Previous Stain Failure
– PET AND PEOPLE TRAFFIC. AND POTENTIALLY POOR PREVIOUS COATINGS
OTHER INFO
– this is our first year in a new house. Previous owners would sand and restain the deck each year. We inherited a deck that was very patchy
– so far we have cleaned using a mildew and mold killer and sanded with a floor and orbital sander. We used 100 grit
– my concern is that we didn’t get enough material off
– do we have to sand down to bare wood? Or is a sand and clean plus a re-coat of the same product sufficient?
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
– the first two photos show starting point, the last one shows after sanding
Behr is a very poor product. Best is to remove all off the floors and then use a true penetrating stain so you do not repeat the issues of uneveness and it will make it much easier to clean and recoat as needed. To remove, you will need to strip and probably sand it off.
Once prepped, use TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thank you. What do you recommend for a stripper? Is there anything bio degrading and/or safe for pets? If not, how would you recommend ensuring the area is safe for people and pets when we’re done?
See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-strippers/
Once done with stripping and the area is fully dry, it is safe for pets and people.