This post was updated on May 9, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2025
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain? Prepping your Deck is the most critical aspect of the restoration process and will determine your final appearance and the stain’s longevity. Not prepping correctly can lead to premature stain failure and poor appearance results.
3 Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these three easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Step 1: Determine Your Deck’s Current Condition
Before choosing how to prep your deck, consider:
✅ Is the wood new or old?
✅ Does it have a previous stain or coating?
✅ Are you re-coating with the same brand and color as last time?
✅ When was the last time it was stained?
✅ What type of stain or finish was used before?
Instead of asking, “How do I prep my deck?”, ask:
🛠 “What is the best prep for my deck based on its age and condition?”
Step 2: Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
Wood and Deck Cleaning Prep
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed. See here for more Deck Cleaning tips.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
Wood and Deck Stripping Prep
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a shine like a varnish cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance. See Deck Stripper Reviews. See here for more Deck Stripping tips.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews | Deck Stripping Tips
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
Sanding a Wood Deck for Prep
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
3. What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
Deck Prepping Product Articles
See this first for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
And then this for the best solid stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you for any advice! I’m doing this to try and save my mother money, but have no idea what I’m doing!
Behr lies about their opacity. It looks like a solid opaque stain, not semi-transparent. Easiest thing to do is prep and apply a solid stain for uniformity or you will need to strip and sand off the current coating fully.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
FYI, Behr stain are very poor in general. Much better brands out there:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you for your reply. We ordered the RAD stripper with both additives, the RAD brightener and 3 gallons of the RAD solid stain. Got all my supplies, planning on starting bright and early to get it all done tomorrow. As I was clearing everything off the deck tonight, I realized I’m an idiot. The siding doesn’t seem like real wood. It seems like a composite of some sort? I realize I should know what it is but I don’t. My question is can you tell what it is from the pictures? Do I treat it like the rest of the wood, strip it, brighten it and then stain it? Or do I need to protect it somehow?
Sides are composite so just do the floors.
Ok, I’m finally done. And it looks fabulous if I do say so myself! Anyone that has any hesitation about purchasing the RAD products – do it. If I can use them, anyone can. It was so simple to do, and it came out great. I tried to take pictures after each step, but they don’t do it justice. First 2 pictures are the before, with the Behr product. 3rd is after stripping. I can only put 4 pics per post, so end results in next comment.
Looks great!
My results after using the Restore a Deck stripper, brightener, and solid stain in cypress. This stuff is amazing. I’m a 45 year old vet tech who’s pretty lazy. If I can use these products, anyone can. See previous comment for other pictures. First 2 pictures are after brightener. That stuff is amazing. Final 2 pics are after applying 2 coats of stain with a roller. At 10pm at night. There are a few spots where it’s a little lighter than the rest, and I was wanting to go back and get in between the boards. Can I touch up the light spots and do in between boards or did I miss my opportunity?
Thank you again for all your help. You saved my mom $1800, and made me the hero!
Looks great. Hard to say if it will blend when you touch up. Try a small spot to see and let dry before doing all spots.
New or old wood?
Old 10 years cedar wood
Does deck have a current coating?
Yes,Australia timber oil cedar tone
Are you switching brands of deck stain or applying maintenance coat of the same brand and color?
Maintenance coat, not sure of same brand
Deck stain previously used?
Cabot Australian timber oil cedar tone. Nothing before
Mold or mildew issues?
No
Reason for previous stain failure
Cabot started failing before end of first year
Strip and brighten for prep using the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kit. It will be an easy strip. Stain with Armstrong Clark stains or Restore A Deck Stains.
New Wood or Older Wood?
OLD >15 YRS
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
SOLID STAIN (BOX STORE BRAND) OVER A SEMI TRANSPARENT? OIL OR WATER NOT SURE
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
REMOVING OLD AND APPLYING TWP SEMI SOLID IN A DARKER BROWN
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
UNKNOWN
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-
Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
SOLID STAIN
Mold or Mildew Issues?
NO
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
SOLID STAIN APPLIED OVER UNPREPPED FAILING PREVIOUS COAT
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
ATTACHED – BEFORE (RAINING) AND AFTER STRIPPING THEN POWERWASH
To remove this and use a semi-solid, you will need to heavy strip and sand as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Thank you – getting it sanded down – drum sander made the job easy – now preferring semi transparent TWP – over semi-solid – should be good right?
Yes but make sure to clean and brighten after the sanding.
Sorry, I’m not sure what happened to my photos on the last post. Here are better ones.
Strip and brighten all. Look at the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits.
Bought the house three years ago and haven’t done anything to it. Looks horizontal boards haven’t been stained in a long time. The vertical boards look like they were stained again, but at least 5 years ago.
I want to do the whole thing in a semi-transparent.
Do I need to strip this? Or can I just clean, brighten, re-stain?
We had a contractor to prep the deck before a painting company is to come put a solid stain on. He stripped and did a rigorous power washing along with sanding some areas and even scrapping but could not get all the paint off. We are going with a darker solid stain on the flooring but what would you recommend for additional prepping. I think it needs a 60-80 grit sanding to smooth things out since the contractor has left it a bit of a mess. Thanks!
It should be fine to apply a solid stain over this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
After rigorous power sanding, should I use a deck brightener or stripper to remove remaining deep set stain and dark boards (mold?)? Photo taken after sanding and wetting deck.
Strip and then brighten would be correct.
Refinishing (again) a 20+ year old cedar deck. It has some rotted sections on the ends but still stable enough to get another few years out of it. Some pretty significant deep weathering, so I’m planning to sand it down to clear and use an oil stain. (Cabot is fairly available, TWP is harder to find locally.) Hoping the sanding precludes the need to use the chemical stripper. Thoughts on that?
And my big question is if I sand it down, do I need to weather it and use brightener before staining?
New Wood or Older Wood?
20+ year old cedar
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Mostly worn off, but some remaining in areas protected by furniture.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Planning to switch to a penetrating oil since I’ve had zero luck with any of the water-based stains I’ve tried.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used?
Not sure what all I’ve tried, but I know I’ve used Flood and I think the latest was Behr. Have used stripper and brightener every refinishing.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Water-based, semi-transparent.
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Mold, mildew, lichen, yep
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
Wisconsin. No matter what I’ve used, it starts peeling up after the first winter.
You can see in the pic that I did start sanding. If it’s a bad approach, I can live with that one course of treads being different, but the deep grain grooves seem to trap dirt and mold.
Strip and Brighten is the easiest way to prep this. If you sand instead, clean and brighten after to open the pores. Sanding tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
TWP is much better than Cabot.
Thanks. Clean and brighten and stain immediately after sanding okay then? No need to weather it again after sanding?
No need.
Awesome, thanks
Installed new red cedar decking last fall. I used the RAD cleaner and brightner yesterday. This morning the deck has white blotches aroung the knots and some on the boards. I misread the brightner instructions and did the entire decking at one time rather than a litlle at a time. What can I do to resolve this? Thanks.
That is oxidation that was not fully removed. You can redo the Cleaner and Brightener prep buy typically it is not an issue nor does not show when stained. It is normal for knots to stain lighter in color.
After my post I used clean water and a stiff brush to go over a small section. There is this ‘gunk’ that comes up. I can wipe it up with a sponge. Is there value in removing this? Which choice (remove ‘oxidation’ or not) will leave me with the best, most consistent look with my A/C semi-transparent stain?
It is oxidized wood pulp that is being removed. Giving it a good pressure wash should remove it.
Did a ‘good’ power wash again(no RAD, just water) and it did indeed remove all the gunk. There is a very fine line when power washing.. After all this should I expect to have good/appropriate absorption of the stain in the cedar?
Yep!
I’ve got a 30 yr old deck in fair condition. I hired a guy to work on it 3 years ago who put a Sherman Williams solid paint like stain on it.
It’s peeling off in pieces but some areas are still stuck on.
I plan on power washing it lightly to blow all of the loose stuff off and then use stripper on the parts that didn’t come off.
I’m too old and arthritic to do this again and want to go back to a clear water repellent sealer type again
Is that possible?
Not easy but can be done if patient. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Hello! It’s been about 4/5 years since we’ve bought our house and our deck is certainly ready to be freshly stained/painted, and being that this is our first time doing this solo, I was hoping for some advice. We were thinking about going with a solid stain to help cover some of the imperfections in the wood (unless you think otherwise). We’re trying to determine if a simple clean and application of solid stain will do the trick? Or, if a complete strip is required:
Yes, stick with a solid stain. See here about prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
As for the solid stain, look at the RAD Solid stains:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-solid-stain-1-gallon.html
Thanks for the quick reply! And just so I understand, using the stripping agent on all parts of the deck, even on the privacy fence area that still had a solid coat, is necessary before applying the new solid? Or, can you simply stain right over any existing solid that is in good condition?
Best to strip as much as possible so it will have the best foundation for a new coating.
My husband over stained our deck last year. So much stain that it transfers to clothing and feet etc. He used stripper this year which resulted in uneven color, spots, and furry parts of the wood. I read, after we noticed the furry wood, if he had used brightener after stripping he might have avoided the furry wood, not sure if that’s accurate or not but either way he did not. So now we are trying to figure out what to do. We still have stain transferring onto feet and clothing. Do we use stripper and brightener? Do we sand? All of the above? What kind of stain could we apply to not risk any transfer? We also need it durable for kids and dogs. The deck was built in 2019 so it’s newer.
Strip and brighten with Restore A Deck Kits and stain with Restore A Deck Stains or TWP Stains. You want a full-curing stain so it does not transfer or rub off. Stay away from stains like Ready Seal that have issues of rubbing off.
Thank you so much! Ready seal is exactly what we had used.
I could tell 🙂
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
Can I purchase these products in a store or online order only? Also, I see there are gel booster products sold separately, would this be needed?
Only only. No need for the gel or booster for this strip job.
Hi Scott,
I sure could use your expertise! My deck has some serious issues due to mold. Most areas get very little sun so rain and snow have done a number on the horizontal surfaces. I believe it is all pressure treated wood. The railings appear to be in very good shape. The deck is 30+ years old and currently has a semi-transparent water based stain. I want to change to a different brand of a solid water based stain.
I need guidance on the best way to prep for staining. Not sure if horizontal surfaces need stripping or sanding. Can I just clean the vertical surfaces as they are in good shape?
I would also appreciate tips on how to try and avoid mildew in the future, if that is even possible.
See thsi about recoating with a solid stain for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Hi Scott,
My redwood fence is 7 years old and it’s time for a little TLC. A couple sprinklers were hitting the fence and washed the boards out. I power washed the fence but the lighter areas from the sprinklers are still there. It previously had a transparent stain of SuperDeck, oil based. I am planning to stain it with TWP 1502. My thought is that a semi transparent stain will help hide the discoloration. Is that the correct approach? After power washing, the fence came out clean with no mold or mildew issues. I thought a brightener will help even out the boards as well. Do I need a stripper of cleaner prior to the brightener? I have a lot of fence. Realistically how much coverage will I get with 5 gallons.
Thanks for the help,
Chris
Strip and then Brighen to even out the prep and remove the prior stain. Coverage will be about 750-1000 sq feet for the 5-gallon pail.
I purchased the Stripper and Brighter for a older Cedar Deck, and unfortunately I’m having a problem removing mold from my deck. I’m going to try again today, but notice that there is something else I probably should have purchased to go alone with the stripper. 3 of the boards look brand new which of course is at the edge but the others I’m having the worst time getting the algae and mold off the boards. I feel that maybe I should have cleaned them first. So before I continue to try and clean my deck can you give me some advice. I tried to ask before I purchased the products but of course there was no responds
No response? We reply to all questions. As for the mildew and alage, we would need some pics posted to assist.
Prior response a month ago: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/#comment-104483
Repost due to corrupted link.
Scot I need your expertise! I don’t know where to start with this deck. It’s around 10 to 12 years old. I hired a professional painter to apply a semigloss. He chose SuperDeck. It appeared solid after it dried. 6 months later it started to peel. It is now mostly gone from the weather. The wood has some cracking and pitting/grooves. The deck is high up on my second story. Full Sun on most of deck with mild freezing winters with light snow sometimes and hot humid Carolina summers. The bottom of the boards look dirty/moldy but not as worn. Should I replace the worse boards then prep and stain. Should I flip all the boards and replace the worse ones then stain? What product/transparency/color should I be looking at? I look forward to you recommendations.
It looks like he put a poly on top of a gray stain. You will need to power sand or replace all the wood to fix this. We are not fans of flipping deck boards as there will be stain marks from the joists that will not come out. In addition, the wood gets torn up trying to flip.
Thank You Sir!. What products, transparency and even color do you suggest after sanding? Also, should I use a stripper before sanding to get the rest of the old stain off? I’m looking for longevity and protection that doesn’t look horrible at least. God bless and thank you again!
Power sanding should remove the poly and stain so no need to strip after. Use a penetrating stain after. See options here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Thanks for this service! I’ve tried for 5 years to figure out a correct stain.
1. Wood is 5 years old
2. Yes
3. Switching brands
4. Cabot
5. Semi solid
6. Slight mold around the base of the beams
7. Dirt (from 3 boys and a dog) just seems to stick to it. I have tried literally mopping it and it doesn’t help.
You can see the color difference in the pictures from the floor and the beams. The beams show what it looked like when first stained last summer. The floor shows the color difference because of the dirt and dust. I also need something that will clean this off so I can start all over. For stain purposes I was looking into the DEFY extreme stain that you recommended.
Thank you!
You will have to fully remove the current stain if switching brands to a semi-transparent. This will require stripping and possibly some sanding. Looks at this stripper: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel-review/
Once removed, the Defy extreme would be a good choice: https://www.deckstain.com/defy-extreme-stain.html
Ok thank you. Would the Defy help repel dirt and dust better?
No stain can “repel” dirt or dust. It should be easy to rinse off as needed.
Thank you
Hi Paul, so happy to find your forum….been looking for help for a long while.
Would love to restore luster and also get rid of the black coloring that is mostly evident on bench sides.
Meranti deck (pre-coated), approx 13 yrs old
Have done light sanding about every 5 yrs, regular (annual or every 2 yrs) cleaning followed by 2 coats of Penofin Brazilian Rosewood Oil (transparent) as recommended by lumber vendor that we bought deck material from.
Last coat was 2 yrs ago.
Photos show current color/consist ion as well as one area that gets limited exposure (to show original color).
For prep, strip, and brighten all wood with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Stain with Restore A Deck Wood Stain in Light Walnut color:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-for-exotic-hardwoods-review/
Hi Scott. Thanks for the info, as the more I read on various sites, the more confused I get due to conflicting info.
Confused as to whether to use stripper, sand, or just clean+brighten. If you advise to strip or sand, please let me know whether to:
Thanks so much!
Strip and brighten all older wood for prep using the Restore A Deck Kits. See this about your new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Hi Scott!
Thanks for all the info. I want to restore my deck (info and images attached), but I am not sure if I should sand, clean or strip it. I plan on using a transparent stain after. I do not have access to RAD (I’m in Canada). Could you please give me some suggestions? Thanks!
Old wood, but not sure how old.
Not sure. It has looked like the pictures since I moved in.
n/a
unknown
Looks transparent/semi transparent, if any.
Yes, a bit.
n/a
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Clean and brighten for prep. Use TWP 200 Series stain or the Armstrong Clark stains.
Hey Scott,
Just finished stripping my PT deck with the Restore A Deck stripper and brightener. Have sanding to do before applying my semi solid TWP. Do I need to use brightener again after sanding?
Thanks!
Yes, it would be best. Do not sand finer than 60-80 grit: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Hi Scott,
working on a Alaskan cedar deck that is 7 months old. We put a light penetrating sealer on it and it mostly wore off but not on railings. We have stripped twice sanded entire deck and what we can reach in railings with orbital sander and power washed. Deck looks okay, railings not so good. Stripper and sealer look dried on wood, power washing didn’t remove the sealer. It’s a big mess. I will post photos but how can we get sealer and etc off railings? Have we over stripped, sanded and washed. Can we wet again and brighten so we can stain? Pics to follow. Thanks so much! Eliza
We need to see the pics to offer any advice.
Should I add non-skid additive to my semi-transparent water based deck stain for better traction?
Not possible to add non-skid to a semi-transparent stain.
I was thinking about the RAD 300 Package (Cleaner and Brightener), but clearly I don’t have a clue 🙂
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brighener kits for prep and then the RAD semi-transparent stain after.
I have an IPE deck that hasn’t been treated in a couple of years. Areas exposed to direct (Colorado) sun have taken a bit of a beating. Last treatment with Penofin Transparent IPE after light sanding yielded great results. Best to manual or powered scrub brush to remove accumulated dirt or use a chemical cleaner? Power-washing even with powerful unit doesn’t remove all dirt. Photos attached. Thanks in advance for any guidance!
Penoifn has issues with darkening in color or turning black. We do not use it or suggest it for this reason. You will need to strip and brighen for pre and then use a better stain.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Prep?
Would TWP 100 fair any better than 1500?
No, the 100 would last the same as the 1500 for a deck. You could go with the TWP semi-solid colors for longer UV protection.
I need help prepping my deck and staining my deck and railing.
I need help selecting a statin for my deck and railing
Note: I am thinking about going with a semi-solid or solid stain for next coat to try and get a longer life span. It is just myself that will have to prep and stain the deck.
Strip all wood with the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and the Restore A Deck Brightener after. Once removed, try the TWP Semi-solid for your best option:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
Thank you very much for your quick response. I have some areas where the wood is rough. Do I just sand those aeaa or should I sand the entire surface. When do I sand? Also do you have a color for the TWP Semi-solid that would most closely match by existing color? Should I stain the railing first?
Do not spot sand, If you sand, you must sand all evenly:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Sand after stripping and brightening.
No idea if TWP has a matching color as your Super Deck has darkened over time. Best to get some samples to test.
Hey, I have ordered the TWP prep and stain kit for my deck. It was built in September and now, in March, I think it is ready to stain. The wood has turned from yellow to white and just waiting on some dry weather. The deck still has red chalk lines on it from construction. (Found out too late that they should have used blue or white chalk). Will the deck cleaning and brightening kit get these lines clean enough to stain with the honey colored oil based stain? Want to minimize their impact on the final look Thanks
The prep will remove the oxidation/white and should remove the chalk lines as well. Pressure washing while using the prep will help.
Hello, I have an old deck that I’ve maintained with Thompson stain. Last summer I was told that the stain I have used for years, was discontinued. I began researching the best way to save my wooden deck; clean the old stain from the floor (where it’s peeling badly) and the spindles (where it has remained adhered to the wood). I am interested in
See some tips here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
New Wood or Older Wood?
New. Installed last summer
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
No
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
No
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
None
Mold or Mildew Issues?
Haven’t seen any yet
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
You Must Iure(s) of the Current Condition.
See this for new wood tips and what we suggest: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Make sure to clean and brighten for prep.
New Wood or Older Wood? OLDER WOOD – probably 50 – 100 years
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Painted but we sanded off
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Using Cabot semi-transparent stain + sealer
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. UNKNOWN – looks natural
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Mold or Mildew Issues? NO STAIN CURRENTLY
Q. Do we power wash?
Q. Do we fill the gaps? We used some wood filler but it’s falling off
Q. Should we remove wood filler?
Q. Should we use brightener?
Please provide steps – we have never done this before.
Thank you!!
-Clean and brighten for final prep.
-Wood filler does not work for exterior wood and will not stain to blend.
-Yes, remove it.
Stain with a penetrating stain after the prep. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
The dark brown deck paint applied by previous owner failed in the sun. We also had some rotten boards. We removed all boards and replaced the support in many areas and rotten boards. We flipped the remaining boards to the unpainted side. We cleaned the boards with 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner that we had success with on our fence. Some boards have dark edges so am planning a light sanding. I filled the knot holes with plastic wood to prevent water from pooling. The part of the deck under a roof has not failed. We don’t know what was used before. We would like to repaint the whole area so it matches. Do we need to wait 3 months for the new boards to age? What additional prep would you recommend?
Yes, weather all wood until Spring. Clean and brighten all wood for prep in Spring. Apply a solid stain to all wood so it blends.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
I moved into my current home about 3 months ago and am not sure where to even start on the deck maintenance. I originally though I needed to strip and re-stain, but maybe it just needs a good cleaning. Additionally, the wood appears to be splitting in areas, but it doesn’t appear to be more than 1/4 of an inch on the horizontal surfaces. How do I remedy the splits? There are some larger splits on some of the vertical rails.
New Wood or Older Wood? My relator says the deck appears to be 5 years old, but I’m really not sure.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? It currently has a coating. It might even have more than 1.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Most likely switching brands
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? maybe semi transparent
Mold or Mildew Issues? The deck is showing signs of mold I think
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? might just need a maintenance coat. There are some portions where it looks like the previous stain has worn off
You cannot apply a different brand over stain over this so you have to remove all and start from scratch. Strip and brighten to remove. Stain with a semi-transparent stain after. Look at TWP Stains or Restore-A-Deck Stains. As for the splits, these are normal so just leave them as is.
Guilty of deck neglect. deck had worn off stain when we purchased the home. We pressure washed with Tsp then applied Cabot Australian timber Oil 5 years ago. We did not do any research! This week 5 rotted boards replaced, bench removed from around edge, you can see the outline. Yes, we can swtich from the oil. Yes mold/mildew shown in photo 2. Close deck boards do not allow for easy passage of water. Time to make this right. Eventually, we want to replace the deck with a screened porch, maybe in 3 or 4 years. Thank you Scott Paul.
Strip and brighten all with Restore A Deck kits. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain or TWP 1500 Series.
Will appreciate your advice – have a pergola that is in need of some touchup. Here are the answers to the questions posted above:
1 old wood
2 has current coating
3 probably switching since it’s been 10+ years and don’t recall original brand used for first painting and first touchup. This will be the second touchup.
4 unknown
5 Probably water-based, solid stain, would have remembered if oil based
6 some mildew and algae on the north side in the shade of the house
7 stain removed due to age, wear and tear, and power washing. Just using water only no bleach or other cleaners. Soft washing pressure no more than 1700.
Send pics.
Last Fall I sanded my deck, used restore a deck brightener, and did 2 coats ready seal cedar. Looked ok but has faded a lot since then. Is that normal? Im planning to hose down, use restore a deck, and do another coat of ready seal. Is there a better option. Thanks!
Ready Seal is not very good and we personally do not like it. It needs to be recoated every year. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
Much better brands out there: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thanks. Can I stain right over the ready seal or would i need to remove first?
You have to remove it but very easy. Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener kits.
What would you guys recommend here? The stain is 4-5 years old and the wood is around 17-20 years. Am I going to be able to get this old stain up? I think it is a solid. I don’t know the original brand name. I have a power washing business and have no trouble using a cleaning mix and brightener on most jobs , but this is some heavy stain. I thought I would go with Deck Correct type stuff but the reviews appear abysmal. Thank You
Use a solid stain again: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
See here for prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I have used restore a deck stripper. (Previously had Behr deck over on it) About 95% of it has come off. There are spots that look still stained red, and other spots that definitely have the stain still on it. I have done a couple practice runs of a sander and it still isn’t coming out. Do I need to keep sanding? Or can I brighten and add stain?
on another note, if I choose a solid stain Color, do I still need to get all of the previous stain off?
(last photo is a before and after)
No pictures.
Sorry about that!
Sorry about that
Might want to go with a solid stain. See this for prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
I cleaned and brightened my weathered porch (no previous protection) with mediocre products and pressure washing, so it wasn’t the best results. Can I re-clean and re-brighten with better products and then pressure wash again? Or maybe just brighten and pressure wash since it’s been cleaned? Will that throw off the pH?
Also, I sanded some boards after cleaning and brightening. Do I need to re-brighten? I will be priming and painting. Thanks.
Post some pics of prep. Also, you should not prime and paint a deck. Use a solid color deck stain instead.
Thanks for the feedback. You saved me from making a big mistake. I’ll post pics tonight. To follow up, do solid deck stains provide the same protection (UV, mold/mildew) as semi-transparent stains? Do they get slippery when wet?
Before I found your site, I primed and painted my handrails and balusters white. Will that be okay? I also stained my fence with Ready Seal, so I don’t want to have multiple stain colors–which is why I’m opting for a solid color for the deck. Thanks again.
Solid stains will offer better UV protection. They are not slippering. Not sure about your railing but probably okay since they are mostly vertical wood. It is the horizontal flooring that has the issues.
Here is my front porch.
Here is my back porch.
Thanks again for the feedback. I applied the brightener poorly, which is why the wood is splotchy. Should I go ahead and re-clean and re-brighten with better products? Or will that be too much for the wood?
I didn’t finish my front porch because I ran out of time and it wasn’t looking to great. Thanks again.
Yes, redo the prep. Clean and brighten with Restore A Deck Products.
Sounds good. Thanks again.
I am planning to restain the horizontal portion of my deck. I used One Time Chestnut colored stain about 5 years ago. How do i prepare the deck to be restained and what stain would you recommend? I have attached phptos of the deck in its current state as well as a photo of the product I used.
Thanks!
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits and stain with TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Hi Scott, I have a deck that was built in May with Premium Pressure treated lumber. I am ready to stain and saw that you suggest cleaning and brightening before staining. I am partial to the stain color that comes out on the faded white looking scrap pieces that match our deck floor verses the yellowed scrap pine which is more like what is on our rails. Same stain color yet two different looks. It looks much better on the whited lumber. If I use the brightener on my deck floors will it come out more yellow again or will It keep the whitish haze that I like? Also If I only use the brightener on the rails where it is still yellow will it match it closer to the deck flooring? What do you recommend? Photos with color are the same stain color. One on the bleached looking wood like decking and the other on the still yellowish railing. We have not done anything to any of the deck at this point. Still have to clean, possibly brighten and stain. We like the more brownish color not the yellow. The stain is Armstrong and clark natural oak in semi transparent. We were advised that the transparent stains don’t offer as much protection. We are looking for a light brown color without yellow or red hues but if we have to have one we would prefer the red.
You have to clean and brighten prior to staining and it will remove the white oxidation and mill glaze. This does not matter as you are staining the wood brown.
Hi Scott, thanks for your help. I am helping an elderly neighbor with their deck and need guidance. Its old wood, at least 15yrs pine. It was “finished” last about 3 yrs ago with unknown product. She has never been happy with any products btw it sounds like. She wants a “sealer” only with no stain due to her experiences in the past. The environment is very moist. She wants to do it mid October with the temps here ranging from mid 70’s during the day and 40’s at night. I am apprehensive about the temps which I have communicated. If we do proceed, my plan was to power wash, let dry x 2-3 days then use Cabot transparent gold sun drenched sealer or australian timber oil. If you have any advice or guidance I would appreciate it!
You cannot apply a sealer over this old stain. It would have to be fully removed by power sanding first.
Ok, this is an old deck. No idea about any of the physical details as it was here when we bought the place a few years ago. Now I want to get it redone before the snow flies, unless it’s better to do this in spring?
My current plan was to just power wash off what I can and sand the crap out of what I can get at with a rotary sander\angle grinder with sanding attachment. Then re stain. But I’m wondering if there’s a superior process for my situation.
Your prep is correct. Make sure that all loose stain is removed, you can cover the intact solid stain with a new solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
My deck is 20’x14′ with three steps to the ground along the 20′ side and a 6′ privacy fence/rail on one side and 4′ fence/rail on the other side. Currently stained Tavern Oak with Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Oil based semi-transparent. I would like to try a different stain that might perform better. What’s the best prep product to use for deck and side fence/rails?
Strip and brighten all wood for prep. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Hi, we expanded our deck and our budget didn’t allow all the boards to be replaced. I’m starting to prep for staining and wondering what you recommend. I’m guessing I will have to sand quite extensively to renew the old boards as much a possible. I know I won’t get them to match the new boards that closely and don’t mind that but any tips that will help and what kind of stain do you recommend? I’d like to use a semi-transparent for easier upkeep.
Do it in the Spring: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Prep all with a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Stain with TWP or Restore a Deck Stains.
Should I sand the old boards?
No need.
Is freshly stripped and brightened, vertical rough cedar siding considered new or old wood? Should I apply one or two coats of Restore A Deck semi transparent Natural? Thanks for all your help on this project!
Rough sawn wood needs two coats in most scenarios.
Greetings – I live in a tiny home community and built a tiny deck addition onto an existing decked area. I had the bottom railing of existing covered porch deck Sawzalled off so I could better blow off the decking but it left bare areas in the stained flooring. I now want to refresh the entire covered porch flooring and stairs and blend into new decking. I’ve read your posts on how to stain new decking…so I’m all set there. No clue on whether to use oil or water-based stain. Answers to questions and pictures:
1- 3 year old wood
2- has coating
3- switching brands to one you recommend
4- current brand unknown
5- no idea what type of stain it is
6- no mold/mildew issues
7- time for refresh and would like to try to blend old into new decking knowing it will never match perfectly
Strip and brighten the stained wood. Clean and brighten the new wood after proper weathering. Try Armstrong Clark Stain or TWP 1500 Series.
Hello! We are having trouble preparing our deck to get stained. When power washing and cleaning and brightening, the wood ended up with splinters. So then we have sanded with an orbital sander, and hope to stain next, but is it okay to use a damp cloth to dust away some of the fine particles? How long before we can stain if we do use a damp cloth? We are planning on using the Armstrong Clark stain for Hardwood (we will be sampling the Amber and Black Walnut colors to figure out the color, I don’t like the deep red and black color we got when we did a sample of the Natural Messmer stain).
The photo shows the cleaned area with the lower right part of the photo showing the not-yet-cleaned area.
After sanding you should brighten the wood again to remove the sand dust and open up the pores of the wood. A wet cloth will not work.
So then do I first use the cleaner, rinse, then use the brighener, then rinse, then wait 3 days to dry, then do the stain? I sure hope I’ve got this right!
2-3 days after prep to stain. No rain.
Have been reading over all the wonderful info here, thank you! We have a 30 year old deck that we will be trying to revive and since we are in Canada limited to which products are available here. Leaning towards the Armstrong but what “brightener” would work best and is available in Canada?
Like others here, we too used Behrs and it began peeling the next winter … what a drag … do we have to pressure wash to remove excess peeling if we sand throughly? Many thanks.
You have a /opaque solid stain. The only way to fully remove this is to power ssnd it all off. After fully sanded, clean and brighten for final prep.
Thank you so much – I know that you say the same thing over and over ha but am I missing a “Best Brightener List?” We are in Canada and not everything is available here. I want something to go with Armstrong which we can definitely get.
This is the best website of its kind I have seen incidentally 🙂
Sorry but no idea as to what brighteners are good in Canada or not. Best to order online.
Sorry for the confusion and thank you for your patience – and maybe I have now answered my own question. I presume that “brightener” and “cleaners” are the SAME thing then? If yes, I see your list …
No, they are two different things.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-use-a-wood-deck-brightener/