This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I’m Scott Paul, a seasoned exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of expertise in exterior wood care. This article is one of my favorites because it breaks down all the different deck stains available, giving you the insights you need to make an informed choice. If you’re researching wood and decking stains, this is a must-read. Learn more about me here.
What Type of Stain Should You Use on Your Deck?
Choosing the right deck stain comes down to selecting a high-quality product that suits your deck’s condition and meets your specific needs. One of the most important factors to consider is the stain’s transparency or opacity, which ranges from clear, transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, to solid finishes.
- For Newer Decks: If your deck is in great condition with newer wood, a more transparent stain is ideal. It enhances the natural beauty of the wood grain while providing protection.
- For Older Decks: If your deck has imperfections or weathered wood, a semi-solid or solid stain is a better choice. These provide a more “paint-like” appearance, offering better coverage and hiding flaws while still protecting the surface.
Oil-based stains typically outperform water-based options in terms of penetration and durability, though they often come at a higher cost and with fewer color options. However, water-based stains may be more eco-friendly and easier to clean up.
When selecting a stain, consider your local climate. If your deck is exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, opt for a product with strong UV protection. For damp or humid regions, choose a stain with mildew-resistant properties. Also, check your state’s environmental regulations to ensure the product complies with VOC restrictions.
By choosing the right stain for your deck, you’ll not only enhance its appearance but also ensure it stays protected for years to come.
Understanding the Different Types of Deck Stains
Over the past 30+ years, I’ve worked with countless deck stain brands and types. Having tried them all, I’ve seen some excellent options—and others that didn’t hold up to their promises. While the landscape of deck stains has evolved due to changing manufacturers and stricter VOC laws, there are still top-quality options available in 2025. The key is knowing where to look.
Deck stains have come a long way since the early 1990s. Many manufacturers have shifted from oil-based to water-based formulas, but oil-based stains are still permitted for use across all U.S. states and Canada. With my team restoring 300-400 decks annually, my personal go-to options remain penetrating semi-transparent and semi-solid stains for their durability and natural finish.
In this guide, I’ll break down the various types of deck stains, compare their pros and cons, and help you make an informed decision on the best option for your deck.
See My List of the Top 8 Best Deck Stains
Scott’s Steps To Understanding Deck Stains
- Watch my video that explains the different deck stains available
- Water-Based Deck Stains
- Oil-Based Deck Stains
- Deck Resurface Coatings
- Solid Color Stains
- Semi-Solid Deck Stains
- Semi-Transparent Deck Stain
- Transparent Deck Stains
- Clear Deck Sealers
- VOC Laws and what does that mean?
- Read Common Deck Stain Questions
- My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
Deck Stain Type Comparison Chart
-See below for full in-depth differences and descriptions for each.
| Stain Type | Appearance | Durability | Ease of Application | Maintenance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clear / Wood Toner | Natural wood grain visible, slight tone | ★☆☆☆☆ (1 year) | ★★★★☆ | Easy recoating | Newer wood, cedar, or if you want a natural look |
| Semi-Transparent | Enhances wood grain with color | ★★★★☆ (2–3 years) | ★★★★☆ | Moderate – light cleaning | Most deck types needing color & UV protection |
| Semi-Solid | Less grain visibility, more pigment | ★★★★☆ (2–4 years) | ★★★☆☆ | May require stripping, but varies based on brand | Older decks or those needing more color |
| Solid (Opaque) | Paint-like look, hides grain | ★★★☆☆ (1–3 years) | ★★☆☆☆ | Difficult – sanding/stripping | Very old wood or previously painted/stained decks |
Notes:
- UV protection improves as opacity increases.
- Durability may vary depending on prep, wood condition, and climate.
- Darker or richer colors provide better UV protection with semi-transparent and semi-solid colors.
- Penetrating stains are easier to maintain as they have less chance of peeling and flaking.
Explaining the Types of Deck Stains Video
Watch my video on all the different deck stains sold today. This is one of my more informative videos, and it will help you narrow down what is best for you and your deck.
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-based deck stains have risen rapidly in the last 8-10 years. The main reason for the vast number of water-based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations, which has prompted stain manufacturers to increase the production of water-soluble decking stains. Water-based deck stains are “thin” paints with varying amounts of acrylic and pigment. Most water-based deck stain brands have a high failure rate, but a few great options exist.
My Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.
My Cons: They do not penetrate as an oil base can. They are slightly more complicated to apply as they dry quickly. They can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
Oil-based Wood Deck Stains
Oil Based DeckStain
Oil-based decking stains have been around for 30-40 years and have traditionally been what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil-based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils, such as Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.
My Pros: Excellent penetration into the wood. The better a deck stain can penetrate, the better its performance. It is also easier to apply and more natural-looking.
My Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying, and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.
Deck Resurface Coatings
Deck Resurface products are similar to extremely thick paint. They are designed to mask the wood and fill large cracks or voids, and they will not show any wood grain. Please note that this product is far beyond conventional wood restoration.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection, enhanced traction, and filling of voids and cracks. Restoring an older deck is an excellent idea if it works.
My Cons: So far, most of these product types have failed miserably. They peel after the first Winter and cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper. Sanding, scraping, or even the replacement of the wood is needed. There are many reviews on our site and other sites with angry consumers and product failures. Class action lawsuits are being filed against Rust-oleum Deck Restore and Olympic Rescue-It. Behr Deckover has the same issues as well. Only a couple of these products seem to work. Consider the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive if you want one of these coatings. See this link for more info, articles, and reviews on these coatings: Deck Resurface Coatings.
Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive Photos
Solid Color Decking Stains (Opaque)
Solid deck stains look like paints but are thinner for better adhesion and penetration into the wood. They cover or mask the wood, so you will no longer see the wood grain. Once you apply a solid decking stain, there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in water-based versions only nowadays.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection.
My Cons: Films on top of the wood do not penetrate well, are susceptible to peeling, look like paint, and are more challenging to apply. They cannot be effectively removed with a deck stain stripper.
Solid Color Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Solid Wood Deck Stains
A Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as it contains a high amount of pigment. Only a limited number of manufacturers offer semi-solids, which can be both water-based and oil-based.
My Pros: They provide excellent UV protection. However, if they are water-based, they are prone to peeling. Look for oil-based semi-solid stains only.
My Cons: Only a tiny amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better than water-based versions.
Semi-Solid Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Transparent Wood Deck Stains
These are my favorites, but the primary key is that it must be a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Semi-transparent deck stains contain pigments that highlight the natural grain while sealing the surface. Both water and oil-based are available.
My Pros: They offer average to better-than-average UV protection, show natural grain, and have very good penetration. In most scenarios, they can be cleaned and re-coated easily and removed with a deck stain stripper.
My Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with Low VOC laws have limited quality oil-based stains available. You may need to buy online if you live in a low VOC area.
Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Photos
Transparent Wood Deck Stains
Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. The average life of a transparent decking stain is about one year. Mostly oil-based only are available.
My Pros: Straightforward to apply and reapply as needed. Natural-looking.
My Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically, it needs to be re-coated annually.
Transparent Deck Stain Colors
Clear Wood Deck Finishes
Clear Deck Sealer
Clear Deck Finishes offer little to no UV protection and will gray quickly. They are typically used as sealers or water repellents and will not last over 6-12 months before needing to be re-coated.
My Pros: They do not change the appearance of the wood. They are extremely easy to apply.
My Cons: In months, the wood will gray and oxidize from the sun’s UV.
Low VOC Stains and States
Currently, 20 States and Canada restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require fewer Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. The lower VOC changes mainly affect oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone, you need to increase the amount of “solids.” This can cause issues with oil-based stains, which may have drying and curing problems. A few good oil-based stains are still allowed in the Low VOC States but are not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go online to find them and have them shipped. Examples would be the TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Current Low VOC States:
California, Colorado, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, and Indiana.
Common Deck Stain Type Questions
What are Deck Stains, and Why Use Them?
Deck stains protect and preserve exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, and more. Deck coatings come in many types of opacity and bases. Based on their VOC laws, many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities, and countries, and unfortunately, walking into your local store may produce some of the worst options available.
Difference of Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains
Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will also help “seal” the wood. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never dry or fully cure but dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.
Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?
This question can be confusing to homeowners. All deck stains are sealers that will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains, as they do not have any pigment. Some, though, may have a very light tint.
What’s the Right Deck Stain for My Needs?
I always recommend homeowners obtain a couple of samples to start. Apply two coats of each to very small areas of the deck as a test to properly assess the color and appearance of the different stains before making a purchase. Once applied, the color of a stain often appears differently than expected, so it may or may not blend in well with the grain of the wood.
Also, I recommend checking that the price of the product you choose fits your budget. Keep in mind that higher-priced stains will not necessarily be the longest-lasting. Make sure you are happy with the appearance of the stain and choose an established brand, as you might need to buy more of the product in the future.
My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
I prefer penetrating semi-transparent products with all these different types of products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better-than-average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions than water-based versions. The exceptions for quality semi-transparent penetrating water-based stains would be the Defy Extreme Stains and the Restore-A-Deck Stains.
Want Free Help Choosing Your Deck Stain Type? Ask below in the comments!
See My List of the Best 8 Semi-transparent Deck Stains
What Other Tools Do I Need?
Some of the tools needed to get the job done include:
- Personal protective equipment (PPE), such as eye coverings and gloves.
- Deck cleaner and deck brightener (neutralizer) for prepping the surfaces.
- Hose for rinsing things and hand rags for cleaning up.
- Tarps or plastic for covering nearby vegetation.
- A hammer, drill, screws, and nails for any repairs.
- A bucket with stir sticks.
- A pole sander and hand sander with sandpaper (no finer than 80 grit).
- A pump-style or airless sprayer.
- A roller and roller tray, a stain (paint) pad with a pole, or a speed mop.
- Stain brushes with either natural or synthetic bristles.
How to Apply a Deck Stain
1. Review the Manufacturer’s Instructions
Measure your deck to best determine the proper amount of stain needed, and buy a little extra to ensure you don’t run out. Every product is slightly different, so I always read the manufacturer’s application instructions thoroughly. This helps confirm details such as whether to apply one or two coats, the dry time interval between the coats, and any safety recommendations.
2. Surface Preparation
Begin by removing all furniture and objects from the deck.
Remove any current (existing) stain using a deck stripping product. Remember to keep children and pets away from these and other chemicals. Thoroughly cleanse the surfaces using a wood cleaner, stiff brush, and power washer (if needed).
Apply a wood deck brightening product to neutralize (pH) acidity and prepare the wood pores for optimal absorption. Limit sanding except for very stubborn spots of existing stain, removing splinters, or leveling raised corners using 40 to 60-grit sandpaper. Let the surface dry completely for two days.
3. Apply Stain to One Board at a Time
You may choose to apply stain with a brush, pad, roller, or sprayer. Avoid pump sprayers and stain pads for thicker or solid stains. Begin applying stain to vertical surfaces followed by floors and staircases. Apply stain to a single board at a time completely from end to end while limiting overlap marks.
4. Use a Brush to “Even Out” the Finish
You may “back brush” the stain during the initial application and then use a separate brush to achieve a more uniform appearance.
5. Allow for Penetration and Remove Excess Stain
After the application, allow 20 to 30 minutes for the stain to completely soak into the wood. Wipe any remaining, unabsorbed stain away to avoid blotches.
6. Prevent Exposure to Moisture
Remember the importance of checking the weather forecast before starting for any chances of rain in the next 24 hours and have tarps or plastic on hand to cover the deck—just in case.
Top Oil- Based Stain | Top Water-Based Stain | Top Solid Color Stain | Easiest to Apply Stain |
 |  |  |  |
From: $41.99 | From: $47.99* | From: $65.99* | From: $69.95* |
Have you ever reviewed #1Deck semi transparent stain or the #1 Deck fence stain products? Are they equivalent to any of the DEFY products? Thanks
#1 Deck is the same as Defy Essential Stain. If you want to use Defy, use the Defy Extreme Stain.
Thanks
Our deck is 4 years old. We live in East Tennessee where we enjoy all four seasons. We let our deck set one year before staining it the next summer. Our deck isn’t covered and gets the sun and all of the elements. We used Thompson’s semi transparent water seal (stain?). Some of the stain has already come off and we pressure washed the rest off. After reading comment’s and your suggestions we thought about using Restore A Deck semi transparent stain. Do you think we still need to use the RAD Stripper or Stripper and Brightener since all of the old stain is washed off? Which stain would you use and what are your suggestions? Thank you so much.
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener and then the RAD Stain. It will work great!
What is your opinion of ready seal semi transparent exterior wood stain for a new pine wood fence
Ready Seal is an average stain in our opinion. It goes on easy and looks good but it does not last very long requiring annual upkeep. There are better stains out there. Read this for new wood tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Do you have a review of Zar exterior stains?
We do not.
about to clean and brighten 9 month pine deck in ga. I will use TWP on floor.
I can’t get the color match I need in defy or RAD solid stains for deck railings. Would you recommend using the closest color I can get in Flood, or use Behr or another name?
Should I use oil or acrylic?
I’ve got to make decision and I’ve searched so much I’m confused. Thanks is for your help.
Behr is garbage so do not use it. Why do you need the solid stain to match? Most use a two toned look:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Solid stains only come in water based now.
Hi I sent a question earlier about what to do with 7yr old deck
Prep with this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Stain with Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
What is the best product to put on a 7 year old deck with no board rot . I want to keep the natural wood look stain and seal and what is recommended for cleaning before treatment
What product do you recommend for cleaning the oily wood?
and ,please suggest me what product I can use to protect and stain!
th you!
We need pics and we sent a link prior for the best stain options.
Hi,
I clean and us the thompson oil based sealer and after 2 weeks stil not dry and is still oily.
what can i do ? please i really need suggestion !
You will need to remove it all down to the bare wood. Post some pics of the deck for prep advice. When fully removed, use a better sain than the Thompsons. It is not very good at all.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Would you recommend a semi transparent or semi solid oil based to cover the deck and it’s issues . I plan to Brighten first. We will sand off some hard to remove bits in railingsI am thinking TWP.
Thanks!
Clean and brighten for prep. You have some old stain on the railings that should be removed. Semi-solid colors will cover the irregularities better when done:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
My deck was stained with an oil based stain two years ago. Is there anything special I need to do if I use a semi-transparent water based stain this year?
You need to remove the prior coating fully first. How to do this varies based on stain brand and type. Post some pics of the deck if you would like some advice.
is there an oil based stain that can be custom tinted? Thinking semi transparent or semi solid. If so brand. Want to stain PT pine posts match house color.
No, there is not any we now of.
Do you have any feedback on a stain product made in Oregon called Exoshield. From what I understand it uses tung oil. I am curious since I don’t see it on your website.
Sorry but no.
Do you have any plans for testing their product to see how they compare with others for use up here in the Northwest.
I am looking for independent testing that it not paid for by the suppliers so I get a totally honest review. I am not making any comments toward this website, just trying to get good information so I can feel confident using their products. Stripping a large deck because of poor performing products is a ton of work and very disappointing. I have done it a couple of times due to false claims. Thanks
The company is Nova Wood Products
No, we have no plans to test this product at this point. There is not enough interest in the Nova Products and there are many other high quality products out there that have been tested and will work very well.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi, I’m in the middle of restoring my 1100 sq ft deck on my Alaska log home. I read several of your reviews and after selecting a stain that had all the characteristics I was looking for, I found out it is not available in Alaska and no retailers ship there. So, I chose another stain, same result. I chose a third, same result. I did not find any of your 2022 top stains available to Alaska. Can you recommend something that is? Here’s my dilemma – it’s getting late in the year, temps are dropping, it may already be too late to apply stain before winter. In addition, I need to find a stain that can be applied to a damp deck, as it seems I can’t get two dry, rain-free days in a row. Help!
Sorry, but we do not know of any quality stains sold there. Have you considered a freight forwarder company out of WA state?
Fence, treated Pine – used to use Olympic Maximum before they changed formulas. Excellent protection and would dry with a slight sheen and type of protective surface – bonded/soaked in – doesn’t peel. 4 coats at 3 yrs apart and each coat added to the previous coat providing good protection, and color has stayed mostly good for 11 years since last coat. Some areas are showing need for another coat. #1 Is there any current product that seals the same way? And #2 anything that I can put on top of what is there now?
No, and you have to remove what you have if switching stains brands unless you choose to go with a solid stain that will cover your Olympic.
I need to re-stain my deck and I’m unable to get the PARA TimberCare hybrid translucent stain I previously used. I’d like to know what an alternative stain that can be used over my previously stained deck. Photos show the current sanded and un-sanded areas for reference. In previous years I rough sanded the surface and applied the same stain over top which held up very well. Hoping to do the same.
You will need to fully remove your current stain first. Once you do dhti. try TWP or Armstrong Clark Stains.
I live in Seattle, WA and have a large 10 year old cedar deck that was originally stained with Penofin Red Label. My deck floor is not cedar and not part of this project.
I restrained the cedar walls and rails 3 yrs ago, made mistakes along the way, but loved the way it tunes out. However, I neglected it and the beauty didn’t last. This summer, I have hired help and I’m wondering if I should use a different product.
The wood had been cleaned and stipped of all product (using Penofin products to clean and brighten). Photos attached.
Which product would you recommend that will be easy to maintain and hold up in Seattle weather? Thank you!
TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains are much better than Penofin.
I have an old deck that I don’t think was ever protected. Age is between 5-10 years. Was here when I bought the house.
I would like to use semi-solid stain. Is that a good idea? Should I power wash it and clean it? I live in Canada and weather is cold most of year but quite sunny July-August.
Best options to buy? I have access to Home Depot, Ben Moore and Sherwin.
Thank you!
Use the Armstrong Clark Stain in semi-solid colors: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
There are not any quality stains at those stores you mentioned.
Thank you so much for this website. I appreciate all the information. We are staining our screened in deck with ReadySeal. That was what they used previously. They recommend two coats. Looks pretty good after one coat, are 2 coats necessary? Are 2 coats recommended so you don’t have to restain as often? Thanks in advance for your reply. Sorry if this was asked before, I didn’t see a way to search the questions.
We would follow the directions RS says when to the number of coats. More is not always better but if it looks dried out, you may need another one.
Thanks, FYI, we are used Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener and are getting ready to stain our other deck with the recommended TWP. It looks amazing so far. Thank again for all your advice. We had tried the Behr stripper previously, a total waste of time and $$.
Changing from Olympic stain and sealant to Val spar in canyon brown. Is it the sam?
Do not use either, especially Valspar. Horrible stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/valspar-one-coat-stain-sealer-review/
I was glad to see your website. I originally wanted to put on behr semi
-transparent but then read information here. I returned 2gallons, only left 1 gallon for unimportant surfaces. I did the staining last week, and in a small section I tried both to compare. You’re absolutely right! Defy is so much easier to apply and penetrate, while behr stain feels as thick as paint. Behr stain behaves more like a surfactant instead of penetrant. I’ll keep using defy stain for my deck and use the behr only for my fences and vertical surfaces. One question though, for WA where there’s lots of rain and some cold winter times, how often should I re-apply? And do I need to strip old defy stain or I just apply a new layer?
Redo every 2-3 years. Clean and brighen for prep.
Hi someone tell me Olympic maximum semi transparent neutral base deck stain I got it at Lowe’s now they don’t even sell Olympic they’ve changed this once or twice on me from what I originally started and said that they use this which was originally a semi-transparent too so I don’t know if they changed something or not but that’s what it originally had but it seemed like acting like it was a little different but I don’t know I don’t understand it this is turned into a job this stuff never worked it last 2 years an peel it would peel in a spot so I’d have to do the whole deck again now it looks like a solid the stuff don’t work and I don’t even want stain no more . Turned into a job. Was originally supposed to last five six years it never lasted but 2 years ever every two years I’m tired of doing it I want to know if there’s a paint an oil-based paint that I can paint over it this stain does not work it’s not worth the price it’s junk and turned into some kind of crazy science fiction science to try and figure out how to find something to work talking to any of these paint people you can’t believe anything from Sherwin-Williams to Lowe’s to Menards any of them what really works and it’s too expensive being robbed my opinion is they took the pigment the lead the oil out of all these products and charge more money and nothing works it’s whitewash is all it is expensive whitewash junk. These company’s are liars. If anyone is thinking about a deck Concrete it be better cheaper no maintenance you will be happier believe me unless you want spent all your time dealing stripping wasting money on lies an maintenance . Sorry this is long am mad now I find this about VCO or VOC restrictions on stains in different areas states another problem so more white wash this stain I remember use be 4 bucks a gallon what a robbery hoax they got going an was better than now what’s lies an more lies about stains . Does anyone remember when you could feel the oil in the paint when you put it on not anymore so now they flat lie an made a full time job try figure out there lies there no end to this . How many questions here about stain its bull crap a cheap white wash that they want you to believe works and create more & more lies cover up there’s lies people . This crazy for last few years been trying figure out why can’t find how fix this product last longer it won’t sanding give me a break sand cheap stain redo what he’ll you build a deck for if all you do is redo it. IAM convince this is all big hoax they’re not making products that work anymore and… Read more »
What is the best clear coat deck sealer
You need a deck stain as a clear sealer will not prevent UV graying. Use one of these semi-transparent stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Before I found your website, I saw a youtube video that said to clean the deck with solution of 2 c.Oxiclean, 1/4 c. dish soap and 2 gal.water. It had good reviews so I did it. Our deck was installed in Aug 2020 and hasn’t had stain or sealer applied yet so it still looks good. Can I assume this cleaning is sufficient and I can now apply the stain?
Post some pics of the prep.
We replaced our deck in Aug 2020 and haven’t stained it yet. We live in MI so snow is a factor to consider. Plus our deck gets intense sun in the summer so we will probably go with either clear or very minimal tint. Can you direct me to a product that will last more than one year?
Look at TWP 100 Series or Restore a Deck Stains. Make sure to prep. Clean and then brighten the wood.
What are your thoughts on Flood brand wood finish? Have used it for years but wondering if I should switch to Behr or something else.
Flood used to be good and then they changed the formula: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/flood-cwf-uv5-oil-wood-stain-review/
Behr is even worse: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Would I need to strip the deck if I switched products? I’m also needing to replace part of the fence around the deck so I will have some un-stained wood as well.
Yes, you have to remove the current whenever switching brands. For help with this, reply with some pictures in the comments.
Hi,
Two years ago moved into a house built in 1983 with a large deck. The previous owners used some sort of stain that looks like paint and has been peeling up for over a year. I want to re-stain with a better product that hopefully will last longer. Is the proper method to power wash, then sand, then apply stain? I’m assuming Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the most recommended stains? I would like my stain to last a while and be envirnementally friendly if possible.
Yes, pressure wash, sand any peeling stain, cover the intact stain with a new solid stain. Use the Restore A Deck Solid Stains.
Thanks for the response. Is there a reason why you recommend solid stain over semitransparent stain? Also, for the prep work, should I use a deck stain remover before I pressure wash? Thanks again!
You cannot use a semi-transparent unless you are able to fully remove the current coating off your deck. If you are able to fully sand it off, then you can use a semi-transparent. You cannot strip off a solid stain or paint. Sand only.
I applied two coats of Olympic Rescue It on my deck in 2019.
I followed all Olympic suggested preparations. Within the first few months after using the product, I noticed blistering and peeling. I painted over the Olympic with a light color exterior paint, hoping the blistering would stop. The blistering continued; the following year I repainted the deck with a dark exterior paint in order to remove as much of the Olympic Rescue It. This method worked, yet hours and hours of scraping took place the entire summer to remove the Olympic Rescue It, When the deck wood was dry, I applied Thompson’s WaterSeal TOTAL, then applied two coats of paint: one coat of Sherwin Williams Everlast and one coat of Valspar Duramax Flex-Shield 365. This has worked well; the only areas blistering are the areas the original Olympic Rescue It remained. I have many photos of the deck and actual samples of the blistered Olympic Rescue It.
I sanded and cleaned my deck last year. Used a brightener also. Then the weather turned cold. Can I stain it now without re cleaning it
No, you must redo the prep.
If an older deck in Wisconsin has what a painter called an “opaque stain” on it currently, and it is pretty much in need of a power wash and a couple of coats of stain now, what stain would you recommend? The wood is good but definitely needs staining at this point. It’s a large deck.( Never used a power sprayer for painting. Is that something we should consider, or just a brush?)
Thanks for your advice.
Camille
Use one of these solid stains since you already have one on the deck: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Do you have any experience with the Flood Pro Series “Semi-Opaque” stains? I’d like to go with a semi-solid oil-based stain for my pressure treated deck (I don’t like the look of solid stains). Half of the deck is 10+ years old and recently stripped/sanded, and half is newly-built/unstained. I prefer to buy from a local retailer rather than order online. That pretty much leaves me with choices of Flood Semi-opaque, Pittsburgh Paramount semi-solid, Olympic Elite semi-solid, and Cabot semi-solid. Out of those, what would be your pick? Or is there a better semi-solid that’s are widely available at local paint/lumber stores? TWP is not available to me locally. Thanks.
If you want an oil-based semi-solid then use the TWP or AC brands. We would not suggest the Flood stain or any of the brands you mentioned. Also, they are all water-based.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-solid-wood-and-deck-stain-reviews/
As I said in my original post, I would like to purchase the stain in my local area, not online, and I cannot obtain TWC or AC locally. I’m asking for a recommendation for a good “runner up” to those products, which is available at retail stores.
There isn’t anything you can find decent at a big box store such as Lowes, Home Depot, Menards that is oil-based and semi-solid. All of the ones you mentioned and can find at your local stores are water-based semi-solids and they do not work very well and are hard to apply.
I have been using Benjamin Moore Arborcoat semi-solid light grey oil based stain on my deck. I have noticed that it looks dirty after only a few weeks. It looks great when cleaned but is a pain to have to clean it every few weeks. Is there anything that can be done to lessen the dirty & muddy look that regularly occurs.
Thank You
Sorry but no as you can never top coat over a deck stain with a clear coating.
I have been going in circles trying to figure out best stain for my 2 year old PT pine fence. I want max water and UV protection (wouldn’t have to recoat for 5 years or more), and had decided on TWP semi-solid stain until I realized that second coat is wet on wet (recoat within 30 minutes). I think after I stain 3000 sq feet that I won’t have the energy to start a second coat immediately. What semi-solid, oil based, penetrating stain would you recommend that doesn’t require second coat on the same day, and has reputation for long wear? Does whether it is drying or non-drying matter? Thanks
In most scenarios, you will only need one coat with the TWP Semi-solid, not two. Just do the one and you will be fine. It has a high amount of solids so the one coat will be more than enough. We only did one coat in this video.
I live in NW Washington State. I have a deck that I am adding onto so part new and the rest have completely sanded stain off. Cedar wood, no mildew, stain had peeled off quite a bit but don’t no when past owners did it. Gets mostly full sun when we have it but also rains a lot here.
What kind of stain do you recommend? Water or oil based? Semi transparent or opaque? How large of an area will recommended stain cover?
Thanks so much for your help!
We would need you to post some pictures of the current condition here in the comments for prep and stain help.
Here’s a photo of the new wood and what the stain look like on the stairs before we sanded it off.
Clean and brighten this wood for final prep. This will help the stain soak in deeper. Stain with one coat. Use TWP 100 Series or the Restore a Deck Stain. For amount needed, we would need to know your sq footage.
What does clean and bright mean? Also, do you prefer oil or water base for my area? Area is about 300 ft.². Thank you so much!
Either base is fine as long as you are using high-end products.
A deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. See example here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
Great thanks, how much would you recommend for 350 ft.²?
For the stain, that would vary on which brand you choose. For the prep, just one of the kits mentioned in the link.
Hello, we have a cedar deck that is 25 years old and has been completely stripped and refinished 3 times because of peeling. We used Sikkens, cedar recommended by the deck builder all three times. We were unhappy with the product initially and Sikkens gave us their product free and told us to try it again and we did. Same thing happened a lot of peeling. We have tried to maintain it every two years and reapplying product the last time, two years ago after we applied the product the deck started turning black.
We stripped the deck by sanding it all down recently and I found your site afterwards so I only have pictures of the steps unhanded.
We have a few boards that need to be replaced can we replace them with treated lumber or would the difference after staining be too significant?? Cedar boards are beyond pricy right now.
What product would you recommend?? We live in western PA the deck gets a lot of sun until 3 o’clock.
I have not stripped the posts yet so I will send pictures of those ( that is what the whole deck looked like) but should I just paint them or use a semi solid stain on them?? I am not sure I can get all the stain off of them. I was thinking white?? keeping the top rail the same color as the deck.
The last picture of the post is the closest to what it looked like before most of it turning black. Thank you in advance
If you want to stain the railings white then you will need a solid stain. You will still need to strip the railings.
New wood will always stain lighter in color.
You will need to remove all the Sikkens if you want to use a semi-transparent or semi-solid stain. Try the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
One more…if solid is sanded off with rented sander…can i move to a semitransparent oils base? It seems like that is less Upkeep.? Also o i need to do brighter again after sanding?
If you remove 100%, then yes, you can switch. Give the wood a good clean and brighten after sanding.
Any chAnce I could use TWP pro series Semi solid ? Almost everything off with deck sander except in between and a few edge marks.. power washed multiple times and stripped .. but had issue with Behr unfortunately didn’t find you first.
You should still remove all of the solid stain if going with a penetrating semi-solid like the TWP Semi-Solid.
I understand the no wood filler part with semi transparent , i have couple deep knots/cracks. Can i use a filler if using solid stain? Or some sort of epoxy? I can’t replace some of those boards due to it supporting a pergola.
It would have to be outdoor rated and can handle freeze/thaw if applicable to you. We have never had good luck with this.
Why didn’t i find you loooong ago…so used your terribly rated Behr stripper and brighter on a solid stain 18by20 deck…thought it was pretty good and then put on an oil based brown stain…disaster….called Behr… used 3 gallons of their stripper and 8 hours of steel brushing….what an ordeal. If I understand correctly….i will be renting a deck sander from Home Depot….then i want to get restore a deck brighter and either oil based semitransparent or solid in brown (as before) where do i get this stuff. I google it and it doesn’t go right to this product. Can i get it locally ? I’m in Michigan. Pictures to follow …
The only effective way to remove a solid stain is to sand it all off. Google TWP or Armstrong Clark stains in Michigan. You will find dealers for both or buy online and have it shipped.
We have a 25 year old deck. It has been stained every 4 to 5 years and at least the last 2 times with Sherwin Williams super deck solid stain. It is peeling in a few spots (mostly at the ends of the boards) and several of the boards have small cracks in them. We have sprayed with deck cleaner and power washed it. Do we need to sand now? About 1/2 of the deck boards are in good shape. We live in Ohio so have all weather. We are ok continuing with solid stain as we like the color. Do you recommend SW at all? If not which solid stain?
Sand off any peeling stain and then cover with a new solid stain. We do not like SW at all. Look at one of these brands for a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi! I have a 5 year old cedar deck that we have stained with Armstrong Clark Semi Transparent Cedar a couple times already since it was new. Can I just re-stain with the same brand/color or do you recommend power washing and/or applying the RAD cleaner/brightner first?
You always have to prep when you recoat. Use the prep kit.
Hi, I used wood filler to repair my deck and then I used twp1500 dark oak to stain the wood after cleaning hoping the discoloration from the wood filler wouldn’t be so obvious. What would you recommend to do to improve the discolored patch from my wood filler? Should I apply an interior paint to match the dark oak semitransparent color? Or switch to a solid stain instead? I live in NY.
There is not a way to blend wood filler with a semi-transparent deck stain that we know of. This is why we tell people never to use wood filler on decks. Maybe one of those Minwax touch up stain pens will make it blend but we have never tried it.
If you switch to a solid stain you will need to strip off the TWP first.
I have a 3 year old deck that was stained with Sherman Williams Superdeck waterborne stain. I want to switch to semi solid or semi transparent oil based stain. Is that going to be an issue? Any recommendations on which one to use? I am getting deck pressure washed with chemicals prior toputting new stain.
You will have to fully remove the current coating and how to do that depends on the type of stain the SW was? Pictures would help as well.
Once removed, use one of these top brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thanks. Picture of the label from SW original stain is attached. If I understood your reply correctly, in order to use oil based stain, I need to fully remove previous water based stain. If I just get deck pressure washed, I can only use another water base stain. Am I correct?
You will have to remove the current coating no matter what when switching stains. The “base” of the stain does not matter.
We would need to see pictures of the deck for prep help.
Can you recommend a pet friendly oil base stain?
They are all pet friendly once fully cured. Try TWP Stains.
I have a wooden free-standing swing built last summer. I wanted to wait for the wood to dry out before staining. It is mostly redwood with some treated wood for the frame. It has been sanded and I will lightly sand it 1 more time. Do I need to use the prep materials on it prior to staining? Which stain would be the best? I live in Utah but put it in the garage for the winter.
Clean and brighten is the proper prep. Stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains.
Help! I have tried on numerous occasions to end the relationship with my deck lol. On a more serious note we need some good advice. We have been painting the deck solid stain for ( to) many years. We did this in spring of 2019 and thought possibly just a touch up this year. But after taking a closer look and starting to scrape the solid stain is peeling right off on many boards. It is even taking previous coatings off down to the bare wood. It seems like it never adhered to the wood boards in many areas and that moisture was getting trapped between the board and stain. First we need advice on preparation (scraping and sanding where necessary) and then which product of solid stain you would recommend. Also why this is happening so we can avoid in the future.
You will have to power sand it all off. See below for some tips on sanding. Once removed, try Restore A Deck Solid stains or Flood Solid Stains.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
Power sand the loose paint? Or all the boards even what is adhering ?
All of it as it seems to underlying problem is the first coat.
It’s a Cabot solid stain.
Mayday mayday,
I have a party in three weeks and the deck I stained has a white film on it and it won’t come off. I need help soon.
There is no way to remove the white outside of re-coating.
Decks were refinished in 2016 with Defy. Over 1200 sq feet and I see that there is still over 2/3 of a 5 gal can of product? Is this any good? And how much should be used to cover that amount of square feet?
It has most likely gone bad. About 12 gallons for two coats applied wet on wet.
My decks had all been done with Defy for Hardwood in 2016. Totally around 1200 sq feet : top deck gets lots of sun, middle one none as it is covered by top deck and small zen deck and stair lots of sun too. See pics. The first 2 show the top deck and you can see what original finish was as this little spot was covered by a mat. Pic #2 shows the area where sun has beaten down. Pic #3 the Zen den which gets full sun and Pic 4 the deck under the top deck which just seems to still be in dood albeit dirty shape.Trying to determine is it going to be necessary to sand all levels or can I get away with cleaning and putting new coat on lower level while redoing the top and Zen? And what products of Defy do I use now. Not sure how Defy Extreme varies from Defy Hardwood and the cleaner, strippers and brightener? Trying hard to stick with non oil based product. thanks for your help
Strip and brighten for prep all wood. Use the Defy Extreme stain for this after.
I have a choice to get other TWP 1500 or the older 100. I feel that 100 has proven years behind while 1500 is relatively newer to better comply with voc. Which do you recommend? If the 1500 really is just at good as the old 100, why do they still carry that line…thanks.
Either is equally good. You would have to ask TWP manufacturer on the why.
Do you have any experience/heard about General Finishes Outdoor Oil? Thanks
We do not.