This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I’m Scott Paul, a seasoned exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of expertise in exterior wood care. This article is one of my favorites because it breaks down all the different deck stains available, giving you the insights you need to make an informed choice. If you’re researching wood and decking stains, this is a must-read. Learn more about me here.
What Type of Stain Should You Use on Your Deck?
Choosing the right deck stain comes down to selecting a high-quality product that suits your deck’s condition and meets your specific needs. One of the most important factors to consider is the stain’s transparency or opacity, which ranges from clear, transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, to solid finishes.
- For Newer Decks: If your deck is in great condition with newer wood, a more transparent stain is ideal. It enhances the natural beauty of the wood grain while providing protection.
- For Older Decks: If your deck has imperfections or weathered wood, a semi-solid or solid stain is a better choice. These provide a more “paint-like” appearance, offering better coverage and hiding flaws while still protecting the surface.
Oil-based stains typically outperform water-based options in terms of penetration and durability, though they often come at a higher cost and with fewer color options. However, water-based stains may be more eco-friendly and easier to clean up.
When selecting a stain, consider your local climate. If your deck is exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, opt for a product with strong UV protection. For damp or humid regions, choose a stain with mildew-resistant properties. Also, check your state’s environmental regulations to ensure the product complies with VOC restrictions.
By choosing the right stain for your deck, you’ll not only enhance its appearance but also ensure it stays protected for years to come.
Understanding the Different Types of Deck Stains
Over the past 30+ years, I’ve worked with countless deck stain brands and types. Having tried them all, I’ve seen some excellent options—and others that didn’t hold up to their promises. While the landscape of deck stains has evolved due to changing manufacturers and stricter VOC laws, there are still top-quality options available in 2025. The key is knowing where to look.
Deck stains have come a long way since the early 1990s. Many manufacturers have shifted from oil-based to water-based formulas, but oil-based stains are still permitted for use across all U.S. states and Canada. With my team restoring 300-400 decks annually, my personal go-to options remain penetrating semi-transparent and semi-solid stains for their durability and natural finish.
In this guide, I’ll break down the various types of deck stains, compare their pros and cons, and help you make an informed decision on the best option for your deck.
See My List of the Top 8 Best Deck Stains
Scott’s Steps To Understanding Deck Stains
- Watch my video that explains the different deck stains available
- Water-Based Deck Stains
- Oil-Based Deck Stains
- Deck Resurface Coatings
- Solid Color Stains
- Semi-Solid Deck Stains
- Semi-Transparent Deck Stain
- Transparent Deck Stains
- Clear Deck Sealers
- VOC Laws and what does that mean?
- Read Common Deck Stain Questions
- My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
Deck Stain Type Comparison Chart
-See below for full in-depth differences and descriptions for each.
| Stain Type | Appearance | Durability | Ease of Application | Maintenance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clear / Wood Toner | Natural wood grain visible, slight tone | ★☆☆☆☆ (1 year) | ★★★★☆ | Easy recoating | Newer wood, cedar, or if you want a natural look |
| Semi-Transparent | Enhances wood grain with color | ★★★★☆ (2–3 years) | ★★★★☆ | Moderate – light cleaning | Most deck types needing color & UV protection |
| Semi-Solid | Less grain visibility, more pigment | ★★★★☆ (2–4 years) | ★★★☆☆ | May require stripping, but varies based on brand | Older decks or those needing more color |
| Solid (Opaque) | Paint-like look, hides grain | ★★★☆☆ (1–3 years) | ★★☆☆☆ | Difficult – sanding/stripping | Very old wood or previously painted/stained decks |
Notes:
- UV protection improves as opacity increases.
- Durability may vary depending on prep, wood condition, and climate.
- Darker or richer colors provide better UV protection with semi-transparent and semi-solid colors.
- Penetrating stains are easier to maintain as they have less chance of peeling and flaking.
Explaining the Types of Deck Stains Video
Watch my video on all the different deck stains sold today. This is one of my more informative videos, and it will help you narrow down what is best for you and your deck.
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-Based Wood Deck Stains
Water-based deck stains have risen rapidly in the last 8-10 years. The main reason for the vast number of water-based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations, which has prompted stain manufacturers to increase the production of water-soluble decking stains. Water-based deck stains are “thin” paints with varying amounts of acrylic and pigment. Most water-based deck stain brands have a high failure rate, but a few great options exist.
My Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.
My Cons: They do not penetrate as an oil base can. They are slightly more complicated to apply as they dry quickly. They can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
Oil-based Wood Deck Stains
Oil Based DeckStain
Oil-based decking stains have been around for 30-40 years and have traditionally been what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil-based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils, such as Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.
My Pros: Excellent penetration into the wood. The better a deck stain can penetrate, the better its performance. It is also easier to apply and more natural-looking.
My Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying, and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.
Deck Resurface Coatings
Deck Resurface products are similar to extremely thick paint. They are designed to mask the wood and fill large cracks or voids, and they will not show any wood grain. Please note that this product is far beyond conventional wood restoration.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection, enhanced traction, and filling of voids and cracks. Restoring an older deck is an excellent idea if it works.
My Cons: So far, most of these product types have failed miserably. They peel after the first Winter and cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper. Sanding, scraping, or even the replacement of the wood is needed. There are many reviews on our site and other sites with angry consumers and product failures. Class action lawsuits are being filed against Rust-oleum Deck Restore and Olympic Rescue-It. Behr Deckover has the same issues as well. Only a couple of these products seem to work. Consider the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive if you want one of these coatings. See this link for more info, articles, and reviews on these coatings: Deck Resurface Coatings.
Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive Photos
Solid Color Decking Stains (Opaque)
Solid deck stains look like paints but are thinner for better adhesion and penetration into the wood. They cover or mask the wood, so you will no longer see the wood grain. Once you apply a solid decking stain, there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in water-based versions only nowadays.
My Pros: Excellent UV protection.
My Cons: Films on top of the wood do not penetrate well, are susceptible to peeling, look like paint, and are more challenging to apply. They cannot be effectively removed with a deck stain stripper.
Solid Color Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Solid Wood Deck Stains
A Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as it contains a high amount of pigment. Only a limited number of manufacturers offer semi-solids, which can be both water-based and oil-based.
My Pros: They provide excellent UV protection. However, if they are water-based, they are prone to peeling. Look for oil-based semi-solid stains only.
My Cons: Only a tiny amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better than water-based versions.
Semi-Solid Deck Stain Photos
Semi-Transparent Wood Deck Stains
These are my favorites, but the primary key is that it must be a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Semi-transparent deck stains contain pigments that highlight the natural grain while sealing the surface. Both water and oil-based are available.
My Pros: They offer average to better-than-average UV protection, show natural grain, and have very good penetration. In most scenarios, they can be cleaned and re-coated easily and removed with a deck stain stripper.
My Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with Low VOC laws have limited quality oil-based stains available. You may need to buy online if you live in a low VOC area.
Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Photos
Transparent Wood Deck Stains
Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. The average life of a transparent decking stain is about one year. Mostly oil-based only are available.
My Pros: Straightforward to apply and reapply as needed. Natural-looking.
My Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically, it needs to be re-coated annually.
Transparent Deck Stain Colors
Clear Wood Deck Finishes
Clear Deck Sealer
Clear Deck Finishes offer little to no UV protection and will gray quickly. They are typically used as sealers or water repellents and will not last over 6-12 months before needing to be re-coated.
My Pros: They do not change the appearance of the wood. They are extremely easy to apply.
My Cons: In months, the wood will gray and oxidize from the sun’s UV.
Low VOC Stains and States
Currently, 20 States and Canada restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require fewer Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. The lower VOC changes mainly affect oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone, you need to increase the amount of “solids.” This can cause issues with oil-based stains, which may have drying and curing problems. A few good oil-based stains are still allowed in the Low VOC States but are not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go online to find them and have them shipped. Examples would be the TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
Current Low VOC States:
California, Colorado, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, and Indiana.
Common Deck Stain Type Questions
What are Deck Stains, and Why Use Them?
Deck stains protect and preserve exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, and more. Deck coatings come in many types of opacity and bases. Based on their VOC laws, many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities, and countries, and unfortunately, walking into your local store may produce some of the worst options available.
Difference of Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains
Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will also help “seal” the wood. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never dry or fully cure but dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.
Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?
This question can be confusing to homeowners. All deck stains are sealers that will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains, as they do not have any pigment. Some, though, may have a very light tint.
What’s the Right Deck Stain for My Needs?
I always recommend homeowners obtain a couple of samples to start. Apply two coats of each to very small areas of the deck as a test to properly assess the color and appearance of the different stains before making a purchase. Once applied, the color of a stain often appears differently than expected, so it may or may not blend in well with the grain of the wood.
Also, I recommend checking that the price of the product you choose fits your budget. Keep in mind that higher-priced stains will not necessarily be the longest-lasting. Make sure you are happy with the appearance of the stain and choose an established brand, as you might need to buy more of the product in the future.
My Best Deck Stain Suggestions
I prefer penetrating semi-transparent products with all these different types of products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better-than-average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions than water-based versions. The exceptions for quality semi-transparent penetrating water-based stains would be the Defy Extreme Stains and the Restore-A-Deck Stains.
Want Free Help Choosing Your Deck Stain Type? Ask below in the comments!
See My List of the Best 8 Semi-transparent Deck Stains
What Other Tools Do I Need?
Some of the tools needed to get the job done include:
- Personal protective equipment (PPE), such as eye coverings and gloves.
- Deck cleaner and deck brightener (neutralizer) for prepping the surfaces.
- Hose for rinsing things and hand rags for cleaning up.
- Tarps or plastic for covering nearby vegetation.
- A hammer, drill, screws, and nails for any repairs.
- A bucket with stir sticks.
- A pole sander and hand sander with sandpaper (no finer than 80 grit).
- A pump-style or airless sprayer.
- A roller and roller tray, a stain (paint) pad with a pole, or a speed mop.
- Stain brushes with either natural or synthetic bristles.
How to Apply a Deck Stain
1. Review the Manufacturer’s Instructions
Measure your deck to best determine the proper amount of stain needed, and buy a little extra to ensure you don’t run out. Every product is slightly different, so I always read the manufacturer’s application instructions thoroughly. This helps confirm details such as whether to apply one or two coats, the dry time interval between the coats, and any safety recommendations.
2. Surface Preparation
Begin by removing all furniture and objects from the deck.
Remove any current (existing) stain using a deck stripping product. Remember to keep children and pets away from these and other chemicals. Thoroughly cleanse the surfaces using a wood cleaner, stiff brush, and power washer (if needed).
Apply a wood deck brightening product to neutralize (pH) acidity and prepare the wood pores for optimal absorption. Limit sanding except for very stubborn spots of existing stain, removing splinters, or leveling raised corners using 40 to 60-grit sandpaper. Let the surface dry completely for two days.
3. Apply Stain to One Board at a Time
You may choose to apply stain with a brush, pad, roller, or sprayer. Avoid pump sprayers and stain pads for thicker or solid stains. Begin applying stain to vertical surfaces followed by floors and staircases. Apply stain to a single board at a time completely from end to end while limiting overlap marks.
4. Use a Brush to “Even Out” the Finish
You may “back brush” the stain during the initial application and then use a separate brush to achieve a more uniform appearance.
5. Allow for Penetration and Remove Excess Stain
After the application, allow 20 to 30 minutes for the stain to completely soak into the wood. Wipe any remaining, unabsorbed stain away to avoid blotches.
6. Prevent Exposure to Moisture
Remember the importance of checking the weather forecast before starting for any chances of rain in the next 24 hours and have tarps or plastic on hand to cover the deck—just in case.
Top Oil- Based Stain | Top Water-Based Stain | Top Solid Color Stain | Easiest to Apply Stain |
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From: $41.99 | From: $47.99* | From: $65.99* | From: $69.95* |
I have a deck that had two different solid color stains on it that was peeling badly. I power sanded it using 80 grit. I was able to remove 99% of it on the deck but could not get the sides between the boards. I swept it and used a blower on the deck and than washed the deck with water. Since there is some gray stain showing in small areas I would like to use a semi-transparent gray color on it
1] Do I need to do anything else to prepare the wood for staining?
2] I want to use a water based semi-transparent stain since I think it would be easier to re-stain it in a couple of years.
3] what brand would you suggest that will not peel and have a good penetration. I live in New York State with harsh winters.
4] Would I be able to use only one coat on it?
I cannot figure out how to attach a picture
Thank You
Do you have any pictures of your prep so far?
This is a picture of the deck as it is now after doing the sanding.
For final prep, use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener to help open up the pores.
Stain with Armstrong Clark in Driftwood Gray or TWP 200 Series in Slate Gray.
Do I still need to do this after I sanded? I plan on using rad solid stain since some areas still show some stain. Also do I need to use a roller and brush to apply or one or the other? Thanks
Yes, sanding closes the pores so you need to open them back up with the cleaner and the wood brightener. Use a roller and brush to apply a solid stain.
I still am not clear on the roller and brush. Do you apply the solid stain with a brush and than go over it with a roller to smooth it out or are you saying I can use a roller or a brush. Please explain. Thank you
Use both. Edge out with the brush and for smaller areas and use the roller for larger areas to cover.
1]For my 195 sq ft deck that has been sanded and prepped, how many gallons of RAD water base solid stain would I need?
2] what type of roller cover do I need?
3] what type of brush do I need?
4] can I use a brush to stain the sides in between the boards 1st and than roll the top of the boards?
5]do I apply thin coat than wait 24 hours and apply a second thin coat?
Thank you for all your advice!
I am going to be using the RAD water base solid stain on my deck. I read the instructions but it does not state how thick to apply each coat. Should I apply a thin layer meaning I would still see part of the wood
Than after it is dry apply another thin layer?
Also if I use a roller or stain pad do I need to go over it with a brush?
Thanks for all your advice
Use rollers for solid stains, not brushes. You apply the first coat the same as applying a paint. To the point you cannot see the wood grain.
Is there a deck stain that’s only has to be applied only once instead of once a year?
No deck stain will last more than 2-3 years. If you are doing annually, then you should switch.
I’m planning to have someone stain my deck next month because I have young kids and it’s hard to make time to do labor intensive work around my house.
I live in Maine (harsh winter) and was wondering which type of stain would last the longest/ need less upkeep. This deck is attached to a garage that we don’t use, but know we must protect it so it doesn’t rot. They play to do 2 coats. Any suggestions?
Try TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark stains.
We have a new deck that we plan to sand and stain. I am hearing mixed feedback on how to stain a deck and make it glossy rather than too dull. Do you have a suggestion on how to do this? Thank you!
You can never make a deck stain glossy. It will blister and peel.
Post reveiw
Looking to stain our deck in Ohio. replaced 18/27 boards last summer. Weathered and ready. The remaining boards have never been stained and are oxidized grey. Estimate them to be 2-3 years old. Bought the restore a deck cleaner/brightener. The railing is a solid color, so I believe I need to use semi solid or solid in order to match the railing (unless I sand the railing entirely?)
Anyways the brick is a dark red with purple tones. A grey stain would be ideal to match the brick. Any brand recommendations? Unfortunately it looks like twp semi solid isn’t an option in OH.
Thanks
Do a two toned deck. Solid for rails and semi-transparent for floors. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
So I’m going to proceed w the two tone.
How should I stain this pressure treated privacy lattice? It’s on a privacy wall seen in photos. Then Also under the deck between the ground and deck.
Solid stain since vertical and rougher wood material? Brush? Roll? Or spray?
Thanks
The easiest way is to use an airless sprayer.
My deck is fairly new (built 2019) and has never been stained/sealed. Looking for a semi transparent stain and sealer. What do you recommend? By the way I live in VA.
Make sure to prep correctly. Use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Try the Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with Armstrong Clark Stain or the Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Hi, what’s a real oil-based decking oil?
TWP 100, 1500, 200 Series, and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are some of the best ones.
Hi. I began using One Time Wood on a new deck 7-8 years ago. I’ve gone thru this article looking for better products. If I used the twp 100 or 1500 or the Armstrong Clark, would I have to completely strip the One Time first? One Time is an oil based too, semi-transparent and made to be recoated without stripping between reapplications.
Whenever you switch brands, you will need to remove the previous coatings.
What are your thoughts on TWP Semi Solid Pro Series? I see no reviews, but am hopeful it compares to the 100 or 1500 performance. Ooops, just found your review. I see it’s a new product. Are you confident simply because it’s a TWP product? We need the color range it offers over the 100 and 1500.
We tested it last year. It is going to be an excellent option: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/twp-semi-solid-pro-series-wood-and-deck-stain-review/
I live in Northern California I understand we are no longer allowed to use oil based stains. What is the best non oil based stain??
I live on the Big of Hawaii. I have a wooden deck stained 3 years ago with Cabot semi transparent oil based stain and a new set of exterior steps made from treated lumber. The stained deck didn’t hold up well to all the sun and rain and is graying. I would have gone with the TWP 100 but found out it doesn’t ship to Hawaii. I think oil would be the best way to go but am open to suggestions and steps necessary to restore the deck would be appreciated.
Sorry, but we are not sure what brands are available there. Seems most of the quality brands that we like are not sold there or can be shipped there.
I have a pressure treated deck, rebuilt in March 2020.
Was planning to stain soon when I get enough days in a row of appropriate weather. Still possible in FL winter. (Of coarse after cleaning and brightening.)
I tried Penofin Premium Red samples and was disappointed at how transparent they were.
Would you recommend I still try TWP? or what would be the best recommendation of something that is a little more towards semi-solid?
Try semi-solid. Armstrong Clark or TWP will have a new range for semi-solid colors coming out next 2021. We are very excited about this and tested it last Summer. Works great!
What stain to use for a new redwood based fence in bay area california?
See his article on when to stain new decks: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Look at using the Armstrong Clark stains or TWP.
Last stained 5 to 6 years ago. It has Olympic Maximum stain + sealant, honey gold. I am assuming it is oil base because cleanup is using mineral spirits. I like the color but do not need to have it. I do not understand what to do to prep.
Do I start with a cleaner/stripper? Will I need to power wash or just use high pressure water?Sand? Go back with a semi transparent stain?
Strip and brighten for prep with Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with a semi-transparent stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
My deck railing is Ipe. When I built it, I sealed the ends, gave it a coat of Flood Seasonite, and let it turn grey to match the Trex decking. It has been trouble free, but I would now like to restore the top rail to something like its original color. I can remove it and run it through a planer, but if there is an easier or better way I would rather use it.
Thanks,
J Carr
Strip and brighten for prep and then use an IPE stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
I have an oldet pine deck on the east side of house. I live 15 miles outside of Atlantic city, NJ.
15 years ago, i stained it with Cabot semi-solid oil stain. I used it cause I am a residential painter and was familiar with it’s performance, besides the great color( plum island) . Lasted about 5 years before a good noticeable “re-do”. Which I considered it a fine product at that time…
next time around, I could not find the Cabot and due to time, I resorted to Olympic semi-solid oil stain and had it matched to plum island color. That also ended up being a great product at the time which gave me another five or so years.
it was time to do my deck for a third time. Wanted to use the same product but notice they switch formulas. Since I am a painter and you Sherwin-Williams products, I decided to go with their Super Deck. It lasted 1 and 1/2 to 2 years and then basically completely went to nothing! Horrible!. I was so upset with the product I was tempted to try to get my money back, haha!
Now, my deck is on its last leg I need to stain it and cannot wait any longer.
I want to switch products but one of my problems is that the stains you recommend seem to only have they’re manufactured colors ( Armstrong, Defy-evtreme’ etc…
Would you please give me a suggestion as to keep with the semi solid oil or maybe use Defy extreme waterbase. Equally as important, I really want/need to stick with the Plum Island color which would probably has to be color matched. By the way, I would possibly resort to a solid latex stain but, and not looking forward to possible peeling an extra prep work next time around!
Thanks for your time and consideration. You guys rock!
Bradley
Sorry but none of the decent semi-solid products can be custom tinted at this time. TWP is coming out with a custom tinted stain that is semi-solid but that will not be ready until Spring of next year.
If you cannot wait, they go with a solid stain like the Defy Extreme Solid or Flood Solid Stains.
I know you have answered my previous question, thank you.
But, I noticed that your website and product reviews consider that the RAD solid stain is an excellent choice as well, compared to the Deft extreme solid stain.
So, now I am trying to choose between the 2 different products?
I will certainly appreciate your thoughts?
Thanks Bradley
I hope to use this product on an old exterior door (about 90 years old) that has been sanded down to new wood. i intent to finish the door with multiple coats of Minwax water based Helmsman Spar Urethane. Are your Wood stains, specifically the Dark Walnut, compatible with this finish coat? Have you any recommendations on changes I need to make? Can the product be shipped overnight? if I use this, what kind of product life would you expect? Do you have any product sizes less than a gallon?
Thanks for any info you can provide.
You cannot top coat a deck stain with a urethane or poly.
I recently moved into a house with a 15 yr old cedar deck that had multiple acrylic coats on it. I was able to strip using Defy Stripper. The condition of the cedar boards is good in some areas, heavily worn (deep scratches, etc) in high traffic areas, and weathered in other spots where the finish had worn off.
I brightened the entire deck and the scratches are not as noticeable when the deck dried. However I’m worried that when i apply a lighter colored semi-transparent stain (like cedar) the blemishes will be noticeable again in the stained finish.
In your opinion, would I be safer going with a dark walnut to help cover up any imperfections? Any other tips?
I’m leaning toward using Defy Extreme. Thank you.
Send pictures.
The third picture is the worst section, but still wet. I brightened it once but planning to do it again. I’m open to doing a solid stain if necessary but really prefer semi-transparent.
The blemishes will show when using a semi-transparent but it will be less if you go with a dark brown color.
Thanks. Is Cabot Semi-Solid (or similar product) going to be any better at disguising things? Otherwise I might just use Defy solid stain.
Semi-solids in a darker color would blend better but not a lighter color. We would not suggest Cabot. Try Armstrong Clark: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
I am thinking about staining or painting my deck now. the temperature is between 63 to 40 degree Fahrenheit. During the night we get moisture on the surfaces. I only get sun on my some part of my deck later afternoon and not all part of my deck.
Is it good time to paint my deck?? I am worried about if paint does not dry completely and during the night because of the moisture it gets wet again.
Please advice me what is the best time to paint my deck.
I am looking forward hearing from you soon.
Thank you.
Might want to wait until Spring when it warms up.
Deck is probably 8 years old, never stained got mildew and mossy. Used a deck cleaner, power washer, and brushes to clean it up before seeing your resources.
Can this deck be stained with semi solid or must it be solid stain? Id prefer a natural tone to solid paint like pigment
Should I use a deck brightener?
Can the same stain be used on lattice skirt around the deck?
We would go over it with a better deck cleaner and wood brightener system. Try Restore A Deck Kits. You can then stain with a semi-transparent stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Thanks! My local hardware store recommended a clear sealer before staining. I dont see that in any of your processes. Can you offer some guidance on clear sealing before staining and unstained/sealed deck?
Your local store is giving you bad advice. You can never seal a deck and then stain it. It will repel the stain making it peel.
i have a new deck. I’m looking at cabot Semi-Transparent or Transparent. If they are both oil based and the same color can I mix them to get some extra protection from just transparent?
Also, what provides better UV protection. A darker Transparent or a lighter semi-transparent?
There would be no advantage to mixing, just use the semi-transparent as it has better UV protection. Does not matter the color. See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hi and thank you for an informative site.
Have samples of AC and TWP 1500.
New Hampshire
3 year old deck railing
Stripped brightened and sanded tough spots
Not sure wood type. Pine or cedar
ORIGINAL stain storm 1.
Peeling flaking greying
Appreciate opinion the best stain of the two for my situation.
Pics are before, after strip and sand , and samples of TWP.
Thanks again
They will both last the same for these rails so really comes down to which one you like the best as far as appearance.
If I may ask a follow up.
Do you feel semi transparent would be best? Versus transparent in regards to durability?
Thanks again
Semi-transparent does better with UV protection.
Massachusetts 20yr old mahogany deck, some boards replaced. Never been completely sanded since new. Want to maintain a darker overall appearance, leaning towards AC Dark Walnut. Lost on prep work… let me know what you think.
Prep with the Restore a Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. The AC in Black Walnut is the correct coating for a dark overall look. Just one coat.
The boards I replaced went on in June, we have someone doing this work in October, is that long enough for the replaced boards to weather? Thanks for a fast reply, I saw the reply notification and figured it was from my additional picture, nope you are just that fast.
3-4 months should be okay.
The decking that has not been replaced is all pretty solid. I don’t know the previous stain but a transparent penofin has been applied over the year to help preserve the wood.
Thanks for any help you can offer, the site is full of great information.
I too have a mahogany deck. I also live in Ma. I rent a sander and sand the deck every five years and seal it again. It’s a lot of work 900 sq ft with stairs. I used Penofin in the past but this year I am going with a water base Defy. Mold is what I want to eliminate. I have had this deck for about same amount of time. If I can get rid of the mold I will be happy. So sand it.
I am in the Seattle area. I have a 1000 sq ft deck (2 levels with stairs), mostly pressure-treated 2x4s for the deck flooring; also 162 spindles with 2×8 railings. 3 years ago I replaced about 15% of the decking with fresh pressure-treated wood, sanded the flooring with a floor sander (80-grit), and then stained with Valspar solid stain and an airless sprayer. (It was water-based, and looked like a latex paint when applied.) It lasted about 3 years, and now needs to be re-stained due to peeling. The overall structure of the deck I estimate at 40 years.
This year I’m replacing about another 30-50% of the deck flooring with pressure-treated wood due to rotting of the wood. At this point, since I’ve already committed to a solid stain in the past, I intend to stay with that. Also, since I had unsatisfactory performance with spraying the last two times I’ve stained, I plan to brush/roll.
With the new pressure-treated wood I’m installing at this time of year (August), these are my questions:
1. How long do you recommend waiting to re-stain the deck given that I have a mix of new pressure-treated wood and older wood that was previously stained with a water-based solid stain?
2. Also, the lumber yard told me that they have been directed to recommend homeowners do a one-time treatment of the Wolmanized lumber with Wolman RainCoat One Coat Clear Sealer before staining to obtain maximum lifespan of the wood. Do you concur?
3. Do you recommend staying with the Valspar stain since that’s what I used in the past (although I realize the quality is likely sub-optimal), or do you advise changing to a different brand (which I presume would commit me to more aggressive stripping)?
Thanks!
1. 3-4 months after install to weather the new wood.
2. You cannot seal a deck before staining it. Very bad idea.
3. Use one of these brands of solids stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Does Sherwin Williams offer a good water based stain for redwood
No, their stains are of poor quality.
Hello,
I tried to read through as many of the previous comments as I could to ensure I got everything right.
Just installed new PT pine boards in May, live in upstate NY. The boards seem dry enough, should I wait much longer for them to dry more or can I go ahead and stain. Was considering buying a cheap moisture meter form Harbor Freight to see what the readings are. What should the moisture level be before staining or is there a way I can tell if it’s ready?
Being new boards, they do have some green stamps from the mill. I understand we should not sand new boards, how can I get these stamps off without sanding the boards? I did notice a portion of 1 board has a large sliver ready to come off (still attached). Is it recommended just to rip that off and sand it down or use some wood glue to pull it back in.
I was initially sold on the ReadySeal 512 but saw in a comment that you don’t recommend that brand since it doesnt cure completely. Would you recommend TWP 1500 since i’m in NY and can’t buy the 100? Do I need to apply any I had read many forums, reviews, etc and never saw TWP listed on those, any idea why that might be? I just want to buy the best product I can so ensure the best, long lasting finish. Wil I need to add any additional UV or waterproof protection?
Any preference for TWP over Armstrong-Clark?
Is using a natural brush the recommended application method or do the staining pads work ok?
Thank you for your assistance, it’s really appreciated.
See this about the new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
See this about ink stamps: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/
Remove the splinter now. The TWP 1500 would work well after the wait and prep. Armstrong would work equally as well.
Thank you for the links, extremely helpful. I will send the stamps now and wait a few more months to stain.
2 final questions.
Application methods: are the staining pads any good or os just brushing it on best?
I have some scratches from the dogs, will this affect how those spots accept the stain? Should those be sanded or left alone?
We would not worry about the scratches as they will continue after the prep and stain. We like both pads and brushes for applying.
We’re looking at putting new spruce siding on our house and sheds in Newfoundland. We’re looking around trying to find what would be the best stain to use. We’re thinking semi transparent. Do you folks have any suggestions?
Look at TWP 200 Series.
What is a good oil based stain for snow country?
TWP wood stains or Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.
We have a 15 yr old PT Pine deck that has been cleaned and we built an addition on 1 month ago. Full sun and 4 seasons in Ontario, Canada. We want a consistent look. What do you recommend?
See here about the new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Try the TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Thanks. To match old and new should we do semi-transparent or solid?
We prefer semi-transparent but you will not be able to get new and old wood the match exactly the first time staining. They will blend later on down the road.
Hi and thanks for all the great info you provide. We stripped, cleaned and brightened a PT cedar deck in late April. Then we realized how much rotted wood we had. We have probably replaced 75-80%. We are planning on staining soon (after washing and brightening again) and have narrowed it down to the Defy, water-based product you have recommended to others. They only recommend one coat for the new wood. Should we put 2 coats on the old or will that make the difference in color even more pronounced? The other option we are considering is waiting until next year to stain but only if it would help with the coloration difference between new and old. We are in Seattle so the rain starts in October and we probably won’t get a week of dry weather until April or May to prep and stain. Thanks for your input.
Wait until next year. Prep all and apply two light coats then.
Hi, we live in the northwestern suburbs of Chicagoland, IL.
We are completely rebuilding our deck using new pressure treated pine.
We have direct sun all day long.
What stains do you recommend? Thanks!
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I m wondering what stain I can buy from my local hardware store . There is Cabot Olympic Benjamin Moore Thompson’s. I’m doing a deck that is old and power washed and most of the stain is off And I just built a new deck last year
Look for one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
This is what our Ipe deck looks like 4 days after a local company applied Ipe oil. There are a number of lighter spots and very uneven coloring within the same board. Can this be fixed with another coat of oil? This company had done an very thorough power washing about a week beforehand, and a light sanding the day of the deck treatment. They claimed to have experience with Ipe decks.
Adding another coat will probably no fix this and could make it worse as it may not be able to soak in fully. You may need to strip and start over.
Can water base be put on old semi transparent oil base stain? Photo not available as I’m not at the location.
No, you will have to remove.
Ok, what’s the prep to put oil base on oil base? Thank You
When switching brands you have no choice but to remove the previous coating. We would need to see pictures for help with this.
We have a 12×14 deck made with treated lumber. Built in May of 2019. What is the best deck oil to use? My husband does not want a stain he wants an oil because he says oils do not crack or peel. How often do you have to reapply the oil?
You must have a stain for UV protection. Use a semi-transparent penetrating stain like TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Great Website! So pity to know you just now.
We live in San Jose, CA. Our deck is over 2000 sq incl. Pergola with 4 hours sunshine. This deck is grayed, cracked, decayed etc. We assume the deck is made of redwood and never maintained many years. As we bought our house one year ago, we don’t know any detail about its history.
We are trying to restoring the deck by ourselves. After watching some videos at Youtube, we did following steps.
1. pressure washing with Behr deck cleaner
2. Dry 3 days
3. Sanding (still in process)
4. blow away the sand dust
5. Stain (need to choose the stain product)
The project is very challenging with >2000 sq in such critical condition. We appreciate very much if you could give us some ideas.
1. Is above steps / preparations correct?
2. Which one or kind of stain products can be used on our deck? Would you give us some proposals?
I also attached several pictures for your reference. (The roof was fully sanded. The rail has been partially sanded. The floor is not yet sanded at all).
PS. I tried so many times when the photos are being uploaded. It always said “not allowed file type jpg”. Could you please advice which file type is accepted?
Thanks!
Do a light cleaning and pressure wash after the sanding. It helps to open the pores. Use one of these stain brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
jpg is allowed. It cannot be higher than 3mb in file size.
Thanks so much for your quick reply!
1. light cleaning and pressure wash after the sanding.
What does it mean “light clean” exactly? Still need a deck cleaner? and then pressure wash?
2. how long should the deck dry for stain after light clean at best?
3. we would like to patch some cracks with “Bondo wood filler”. Which product is better to stain after the patch?
I tried again upload the photos. Hopefully it works now.
1. Pressure wash with a deck cleaner. More of a high-pressure rinse.
2. 48 hours.
3. Do not use wood filler. It will not work or stain to blend and will look bad with any semi-transparent stain.
Just one coat of stain for this sanded deck,
Appreciate so much for your feedback!
1. The deck should be cleaned again, although it was already pressure washed with a deck cleaner before sanding, am I right? Could the two times pressure wash harm the wood?
2. Do we also need Brightener?
3. Stain after 48 hours dry time. How long should we finish the stain? We only have one labor and it will probably take one week to stain the whole deck.
I think too long dry time is not good for the stain penetration, right?
4. If we decide to stain with Restore A Deck, it is better stain to damp wood. That might be a problem unless we clean and stain area by area, right? Then how to avoid damaging the fresh stained wood during the pressure wash in the neighbor area?
5. Has all the oil based stain in the Top6 brands to wipe excess oil off? If yes, we would like to use water based stain product.
6. If you do our project, which product is your favorite?
7. We use 100 Grid sand paper. Is it ok?
Sorry I ask you so many questions. And I can only say thanks, thanks, thanks! You have a so informative website and so helpful service without asking for any money. I wish your business runs successfully forever!
1. Yes clean again.
2. Yes.
3. Stain in sections if taking longer than one day.
4. Prep all until done and then stain all after. You can always dampen the wood prior. to applying the RAD Stain.
5. You do not have to back wipe oil-based stains.
6. There are all good.
7. No, not more than 60-80.
Maybe hire this one out to a pro?
Many many thanks for your quick reply!
1. The whole pergola and part of the railing have been already power sanded with 100 grid paper. Is there any negative impact on the stain result? Any proposal to correct?
2. within one day stain after 48 hours dry. That means always clean -> dry -> stain in one section and then the next section. This is not for RAD. Right?
3. You mentioned clean all firstly, then stain section. If dry longer than one day, then damp prior to staining, right?
4. If use RAD, Is that ok to use garden hose to damp the wood if use RAD?
It seems DIY is cost saving, but always a lot of uncertainties 😃.
1. Stain may not soak in very well now.
2. No, you prep all until done and then stain all after the prep is done.
3. Only if using RAD Stains.
4. Yes.
Hi, deck stain help, thank you again for your great help!
1. We are not able to finish stain within one day. It will probably take one week. Is it still ok? You mentioned it is better to finish all stain in one day after 48 hours dry time. I am confused a little bit.
2. How long should we wait to install Polycarbonate roof over the pergola after the stain?
Thank you! Have a nice weekend!
Hi. After reading your awesome info for a week, I want to make sure I understand. We’re almost done with the sanding of our olddd deck. It still has some remnants of the old color from previous homeowner. Our yard is like a swampy hot suana in summer, (wet/humid) and nasty NJ winters. With that said, I take it water based is the way to go, to help deter the mold we get? We tested the look of olympic max waterproofing sealant and really LOVE that look. Is that a semi? And is it a bad brand? We’re wanting to keep the space bright, but going over with a color that will blend with what we couldn’t get up.
May I also ask, we’re having an extremely hard time finding the color that matches this semi-transparent behr, (second photo), in a brand better suited. Could you possibly help?
Thanks much!
It’s appreciated!!!
You will have to remove all of the current stain before recoating. Olympic and Behr have issues with peeling. Try Defy Extreme in Butternut or Restore A Deck in Dark Walnut.
I am having difficulty choosing a stain. I have two issues
1. I have chickens that get on the deck some so I need a stain that really helps protect against this.
2. The oil base stain that I previously used tracks smudges into my house on my concrete floors. This is still happening after a year.
I would like a stain that will help protect against both. I realize that I need prep to strip, clean and brighten the deck. I live in Texas and the deck in under trees and shaded most of the day. The deck is almost 2 years old made with pressure treated wood.
Thank you for your response, I need to ask someone who did not represent one of the brands I was considering.
Try TWP 100 Series.
I appreciate your input. I see that TWP 100 is an oil based stain. I thought that it might be the oil based stain that left the residue on my deck. Would a water based stain be better?
If I go ahead with the TWP, will I need to strip the deck since my previous stain was oil based? I used Readyseal the first time that I stained the deck.
I appreciate your response.I don’t see my followup question so I will ask it again.
I was thinking that perhaps the residue was due to the Readyseal oil base stain that I used the first time. Would a water base stain help with the residue? What about Defy Extreme?
RS has an issue that its paraffin oils are non-drying and never cures which means it will constantly will rub off. One reason we will never use it. Any fully curing stain will not have an issue. It does not matter if oil or water-based.
Should I strip even though I am staying with an oil based stain?
Yes.
Thank you, Deck Stain.
I used twp after Penofin barely lasted 3 years and it was excellent. It did take 3-5 days(hard to remember) to fully cure and dry out, but wasn’t sticky afterwards. Just make sure you don’t leave pooling on the wood surface. It lasted much longer than other finished I’ve used.
Thank you.
This is lovely, what color is it??
Can we ask what colour you used as the fence looks beautiful
Can a water based deck stain be used over an oil based one from a previous year?
No.
Hello,
I purchased a home that has a deck with a red/mahogany type stain that badly needed to be redone. I am in the process of sanding the wood and having replaced many of the boards. I am assuming this deck is almost all treated pine. I have good sunlight on the deck for about 5-6 hours a day. I live in in Northeast Arkansas, so central southern part of the US.
Based off the pictures, any recommendations on a stain?
(Sorry, had to use a different browser at work, this may appear as a duplicate question, but this one should have the photos).
Thank you!
Look at TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Thank you for the suggestion. Do you recommend this over Armstrong Clark stains? I am needing guidance on the type of stain as far as transparent, semi- transparent, semi-solid, etc.? Any recommendations on that?
AC would work just as well.
if I go with a semi-solid, use AC correct? I saw down below that you only recommended AC for Semi-Solid stain.. last question!! And thank you for your help.
Yes, use the AC.
Thank you for the suggestion. Do you recommend this over Armstrong Clark stains? I am needing guidance on the type of stain as far as transparent, semi- transparent, semi-solid, etc.? Any recommendations on that?
For many years we have protected our cedar fences with Cabot’s semisolid Mission Brown. The fence has not been treated for 8 years now, resulting in grayed top boards, but little deterioration elsewhere other than a couple of sprinkler damaged boards. Sherwin Williams makes a SuperDeck semi solid that can be nicely matched for color. It has gotten poor reviews, so I hate to use it. What do you suggest we do? If we have to use the Sherwin Williams: how will it perform? Do we have to strip it with Restore-A-Deck stripper?
Yes, you have to remove the Cabot. Do you have any pictures? Do not use the SW Super Deck.
Best oil based stain over Cedar exterior siding need to buy 10 gallons semi transparent bluegray color in Connecticut
You will have to strip all existing coatings first. Maybe TWP 200 Series in Slate Gray when done with prep.
Can you mix Olympic oil base stain with the new water based stain
No.
The deck we are building is raw oak for the flooring and raw yellow pine beams and boards for the underside of the roof, all freshly cut on our sawmill. We live in West Michigan. What is the best product recommendation to finish the wood? Thank you!
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Try the Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 Series after the wait and prep.
Our deck was either painted or stained solid by a previous owner. We plan to sand the horizontal flooring to remove any peeling and then use a solid stain. Possibly #1 Deck since it seems similar to Defy, which I can’t get here, and I don’t like Restore’s color choices. Any experience with #1 Deck?
For the vertical sides, we removed the old lattice and plan to put up new cedar horizontal rails. We’ll use the old vertical posts which are treated lumber. We had planned to use solid stain on the entire deck, and stain the new cedar prior to installing. When using a solid stain, would we still need to wait 3+ months to do the new cedar? And if so, I assume we’d have to clean/brighten after the 3 months. Would that process damage the horizontal flooring if we’ve already put solid stain down? Thank you for any advice!
Here is a temporary mock up of what the deck would like…
Sorry but no experience with 1 Deck and not sure if quality or not. Yes, you will need to let new wood season when using a solid stain. The prep will not harm a solid stain.
Thank you so much for the info! I was able to find Flood Pro Series in a store near me so I’m planning to use their solid stain instead.
I’ve been testing semi transparent samples on untreated yellow pine. Light tones turn yellow, mid to dark tones turn orange. I’ve cleaned, brightened and even tried conditioner. Nothing helps. I trying for a med tone with brown hues. Must I resort to semi solid or solid??????
Colors when using a semi-transparent will vary based on the final color you want, your wood type, and the age of the wood. To be exact in color you would need a solid stain but even those will vary based on the wood being in the shade or full sun.
What kind of stain for a cedar tongue and groove porch ceiling? It will not get direct sunlight or rain exposure. Hoping it will last a long time without restaining
Try TWP or Armstrong Clark. A ceiling will last many years.
Hello, which would you choose in a semi-transparent (if you were forced to choose) between Sherman Williams SuperDeck, Cabot, or Valspar? I am paying a contractor and between my two finalists, these are the stain options.
Also, how critical is pressure washing prior to staining a two year old deck that has never been stained or sealed? One contractor mentioned pressure washing with a bleach and soap mix, and the other didn’t mention any prep work (i need to clarify with him). Would prep work vs. no prep work be a bigger deal than the difference between the above stains?
Thanks so much for any advice you can give!
All three of those have issues so we would not use any. If we had to choose we would take Super deck but only because it will not peel like the other two. It turns black instead but is easily removed when it fails compared to the other two.
You always have to prep when you stain wood. Stay away from the guy that does not prep as he does not know what he is doing. The #1 reason stains fail is improper prep.
I live in Lakeview, Michigan and the deck I”m going to stain is a new deck of treated pine and I plan on waiting one year before staining. I live within fifty yard of a lake, so mildew might be a problem. We get 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day in warmer weather. I would like to use a clear stain. I would like to keep the natural look of the wood. What type of stain would you recommend? Thank you.
Wait until Spring to prep and stain, too cold in MI right now. You also want a semi-transparent stain, not a clear. Clear sealers will not provide UV protection and will gray in a matter of months. Use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Great information but answer this please to one that knows nothing about wood! What is NEW wood? New to me, i.e., I just bought it? New because it was just cut at the lumber yard? I mean, how am I supposed to know? I bought treated lumber from a big box store and built a deck. It’s early fall now and I feel compelled to get the deck treated before the snow flies in a few short weeks, but, is my deck wood too new to successfully treat? (I would use semi-transparent oil based TWC if I can find it. Thanks for your input.
New wood is anything that has been built/installed and then has weathered for less than a year. See this for more info: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/