This post was updated on February 26, 2024
TWP 1500 Series Stain Update 2024
We find that the TWP 1500 Series Stain to be the best performing oil-based deck stain on the market. We personally use the TWP 1500 Series Stain on deck restorations every year in the Midwest and is one of our go-to brands.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain
TWP 1500 Series was introduced in the Summer of 2010 as the replacement for the TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 stain is a semi-transparent oil-based wood preservative registered by the EPA. The only deck preservative that is currently registered as an exterior wood preservative.
TWP 1500 Series is designed for all exterior unfinished wood. It has excellent UV resistance from graying. It is mostly used for exterior wood decking, wood fencing, log homes, cedar sided homes, etc. TWP 1500 comes in 10 colors that allow the natural grain of the wood to show through.
TWP Stains – 1500 Stain Rating
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series had a beautiful rich look to the wood. The wood grain was highlighted naturally. 1501 Cedartone color was slightly brown for a traditional cedar color.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– Excellent at preventing UV graying at the two-year mark. One of the top stains that we have tested in terms of absorbing the UV radiation that causes oxidation of the wood.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– Very good at preventing peeling. TWP penetrates deep into the wood. This seems to reduce any chance of wearing or peeling at the surface.
TWP 1500 Series
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– TWP 1500 Series cost us $194.99 for a 5-gallon pail delivered. This breaks down to $.35 per foot for 2 coats of stain on our 400 square foot deck. We still had 1.5 gallons left when done. The coverage for the TWP 1500 was close to 200 square feet per gallon.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– Of all of the oil-based stains we tested, TWP offers the best protection against mold spores that are known to grow in oil-based stains. This is most likely due to the oils used in TWP’s stains. They do not use linseed oil but rather a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.
Ease of Application: 8
– For an oil-based stain, the TWP 1500 series applied well. We did notice that you need to back brush any puddles to ensure an even application. This is normal for most of the stains that we have tested. TWP 1500 Series did dry to the touch in 6 hours and we were able to put the furniture back on the deck the following day.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– The 1500 series did not “darken” in color like other oil-based stains have been known to. TWP actually lightened up slightly at the 2-year mark. This gave the wood a more natural-looking feel.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series would be an easy stain to reapply. A normal wood deck cleaner would be used to remove some dirt and grime, prepping for another coat.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series (and 100 Series) have been known to provide tops in terms of durability and color retention. They have always been one of the best stains and are one of our top choices. Little to no fading on the railings. The deck surface faded to about 75% of the stain’s initial color after 2.5 years.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google:Â TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
Cost: $46.99 per Gallon, $234.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Western Red Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used:Â 1501 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Photos
TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video
Applying TWP in 1503 Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
We could not be happier with the 1500 TWP Cedar tone. We love the way it looks. It was easy to apply,
Looks great!
Hi. I need to stain/seal our 20 year old deck (about 500-600 sq. ft.). It's made of treated pine and has been sealed with Thompson's (or the like) several times in the past (but not in about 5 years, maybe longer). Can I just pressure wash it and then apply a new stain/sealer? And which sealer would you recommend? This is in the Texas gulf coast area. Thanks.
If just gray and not repelling water then use a deck cleaner while pressure washing and brighten after. Use the Gemini Restore Kit. Stain with the TWP.
Thanks. Also, I can't decide whether to put on a transparent type seal or something like a painted look. I like the painted look better, but I'm hesitant to go that route because I feel like it would scratch easily like paint would. I really just want to use whatever is going to protect the best and last the longest. What are your thoughts? If you tell me TWP, which one?
Solid stains do not scratch but they do peel. We like the penetrating oil based stains because of this. Use the 1500 for the wood.
Whoever it is that I'm talking to – THANK YOU SO MUCH. I will now go and spend some money. 🙂
Oops. I forgot to tell you that part of this deck is in total sun, and other parts in total shade. In one area there is some mold/mildew that gets black. Should I still use the TWP 1500 (oil based)? Or should I use a water based stain (I was thinking Defy Extreme)? And do you still suggest the Gemini Restore Kit? Thank you.
Use the 1500 and yes on the Gemini Kit.
I used TWP 1500 Cedartone to refinish one of the largest western red cedar homes on the east coast and it came out looking fantastic compared to products used in previous refinishing. Preparation involved using a two gallon pump sprayer to apply a wood cleaner and brightener, and a light power wash. One coat of TWP was applied with a 5" wide natural hair brush. Application was easy, no runs or visible overlapping. Color appears to be consistent over entire job. Previous products required 20 gallons for job and, with liberal application, I completed job with only 15 gallons of TWP 1500. My only concern now is the durability and appearance over time. I found that Superdeck products, that I used in passed, maintain good appearance for about 2 years ( although I refinish every 5-6 years) and start to look dingy and grey after that. I am looking forward to seeing how TWP lasts over time. Pictures : http://www.8seacrest.com
I don't know why anyone would use a 5" brush. I've done several dozen decks with TWP and we strip them, and then use HVLP to spray them.
A couple years ago I stripped my oldish deck and stained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil, Jarred Brown and loved it. This year, I pressure washed (lightly, just to clean) and started to add a new coat but ran out. Tried to buy more but discovered nobody in my area sells it anymore and then discovered why. (formula change) Obviously I do not want to strip my whole deck which doesn't look bad at all. Is there any possibility of finishing this new coat with another product since I can't buy Cabot anymore (and apparently wouldn't want to with the formula change)?
No you should never apply a different brand of stain without removing first.
We have a deck made of cambara and ipe that is 5 years old. When new it was treated with Penofin which lasted about 6 months. A second treatment with Penofin lasted about another 6 months. Then we tried Thompsons Water Seal. That allowed the water to bead on the surface but not much else. The deck has turned grey but has been recently power washed. We live in New Hampshire and the deck goes thru hot summers and cold winters (we keep the snow shoveled off the deck in winter). Our research for a new finish has us thinking of two options – TWP1500 or a urethane finish from US Coating Solutions.
Looking for advise and recommendations please.
Never put a urethane on outside wood! You need an exotic hardwood stain. TWP 1500 is not one. With your wood type you will need to reapply every year. Nothing will last longer. Do not believe any claims otherwise from other manufacturers. Look at Armstrong Clark in one of their hardwood colors Defy Hardwood Stain.
I have a 50 ' x 20' older deck of treated wood. Some of the boards are being replaced. We just power washed the entire deck and would like to apply a stain. This is a pool area deck that gets mostly full sun. I read that we should wait 2 weeks for the new boards? And do I need to prep with anything or just use the TWP 1500? Thanks
Prep with their Gemini Restore Kit. You should wait a month or so.
I'm looking for a light finish for my deck while still getting some UV protection. Don't want it too yellow. Would you recommend the Natural Tone or Cedar Tone? It's hard to tell the difference.
Natural is carmel color while the cedartone is a little more brown.
What color is the deck in the picture? Thanks
1530 Natural
I live in south Florida and have a 6 month old pressure treated pine deck, approximately 2500sqft. Half of the deck gets full sun and the other half gets 1/2 sun. Part of the deck is around a pool, so is exposed to water on a daily basis. I have decided to use TWP in honeytone, but wondering whether to use the TWP 100 or 1500? What is the benefit of 1 over the other? I plan on using the cleaner/brightener prior to stain.
Clay, TWP 1500 will give a little better Uv protection while the 100 will penetrate better and wear better. Both will last about the same though.
Thanks for the info! Which is better for water protection? I’m leaning toward using the TWP 100 at this point.
TWP 100
We have freshly milled redwood siding from reclaimed tank staves. We were thinking about going to Penofin route but after reading reviews it seems we should check out other options. It will all be vertical surfaces in Western WA. Our biggest concern is protection from graying, no mold, and ease of application and of course durability. We have over 1200 sq ft to do. We are planning on prefinishing before application.
What would you recommend as the best product for new wood? We thought we would lightly sand each piece to open up the pores. We've also been told by the mill that this redwood is fairly absorbent.
I ordered samples of the Defy Extreme and TWP 1500. Seems like one is water based and one oil based. Opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Both are good choices and will work well for this vertical redwood. Oils in general apply easier as they do not dry as quickly. Both will do well with color retention and mold. It\’s a toss up as you will be happy with either. Might just come down to color.
So glad I stumbled upon this website! I live in Northern NJ and have two PTW decks which are in bad need of refinishing. No idea what product was used to stain them previously. I had planned on using a Benjamin Moore stain but after reading all the awful reviews TWP seems like a much wiser choice! I was told that to prep the decks I only need to use cleaner and brightener, but do you recommend stripping them too? One of the decks is by our pool….do I have to use different products to clean and strip that area? Thanks for your advice!
If you have a different old stain than you should strip and brighten for prep.
I have three comments / questions:
1) I have a 196sf CCA deck ready to apply 'Olympic Rescue It' tinted Winning Red – should go down ok,
2) All original cedar railings have been removed and 6" x 6" cedar posts have been sanded smooth ( to remove old Cetol stain ). will apply TWP 1502 Redwood stain. Same on newly constructed deck and stair rails. Using DecKorator's black Al balusters,
3) now to the main question – I have removed and replaced the eight CCA steps from the deck to the patio with new YellaWood planks. I sanded the cedar risers smooth. I have CCA stair stringers exposed on either end.
What is the BEST stain to use on these surfaces? Brand and type ( semi-trans or opaque? )
Thx
I would use the TWP for these but you will need to let it season for some time.
Selling 5 gallons brand new of twp 1500 dark oak near Philadelphia
Go look on philadelphia Craig's list.
We purchased it for our deck but we changed our mind and we're trying to avoid shipping it back.
Jessica e Rich at gmail dot com
We live in the Greater Toronto area and have a very large, approx 12 year old red cedar deck. It is built around a large Maple tree and is therefore in shade for most of the summer months. When we moved in approx 8 yrs ago, the deck had never been treated and had greyed. We cleaned the deck and applied a Behr product which did not wear well at all. We ended up removing it and sanding the whole deck. At that time we had used Cabot's Australian Timber oil and loved the way it performed. It lasted for several years with an occasional touch up on spots that saw more sun. Last year we re sanded again as we had to replace sections that were rotting. We were fortunate to have scrounged enough Cabot's Australian Timber oil from leftovers and family who used the same product. We used it sparingly so that it would be enough for our whole deck (approx 900 sq ft). Right now, we'd like to reapply something that would help maintain our work from last year. Would the TWP 1500 work for us?
Joe, TWP is not legal for Canada according to manufacturer. Look at Armstrong Clark.
I am building a wood pergola in St. George Utah. The climate is simular to Phoenix, but a little colder in the winters. It gets VERY hot here in the summers with 15 hours of blasting sunlight in the summer. Other pergolas here seem to chip (both the stain and the wood seperate) and crack. What product would you reccomend for this extreem weather environment?
Sam, try the Armstrong Clark or the TWP 1500 Series.
Hi!
We built a deck in June/July of last summer with new, wolmanized wood. We waited to stain until now. I'm wondering if you would recommend the TWP 1500, one of the Defy's, or the Armstrong for our deck. We live in western Pennsylvania and the deck gets full sun. Also — is a good scrubbing with a pressure washer enough? Or do we really need to apply a cleaner and brightener? One or two coats? Love your site!
Thanks!
Kristi, yes you need a cleaner and brightener for the prep. I would suggest the Armstrong Clark stain for this. 2 light coats wet on wet application.
thanks for getting back to me! so — if we use the cleaner – can we get away with not using the brightener (just trying to cut down on cost)? also – does the cleaner take the place of power washing — or do we power wash first and then use the cleaner? can you recommend a good cleaner?
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP! 🙂
Kristi, you apply the cleaner first than pressure was off. Best to use both. Brightener is used to neutralize the cleaner.
Hello,
I'm building an arbor for wisteria vines out of either new pressure-treated pine or new redwood. I live in the Southern California high desert, extreme sun conditions almost all year round, summer temps regularly up over 100 degrees, winter temps dip below freezing for a few weeks out of the season, very little snow or rain, but when it does precipitate, it is hard and heavy. So, weather conditions are extreme. However, eventually, if all goes well, the wisteria will grow over and shade much of the wood, the arbor is being build on the east side of the house, there is a shade tree on the south side of the arbor, etc., so there will be some 'protection'. HOWEVER, when the wisteria has grown over the structure, cleaning, re-sealing, etc. won't really be an option… so with all of that said… what do you recommend for a stain/sealant? I'd love to stain/seal all the wood before assembly, but have heard you should wait up to a year for the wood to weather and acclimate itself? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
RimrockRancher, with TWP you will need to wait at least a few months. Really should wait with any brand as the stain will have difficulty penetrating now. Armstrong Clark will penetrate new wood better. If we were doing the job we would have it installed, prep with a cleaner and wood brightener after a few months, then stains with a color like Amber in the Armstrong Clark.
We bought the cedartone stain for a new treated deck. We waited 5 months before applying and had a professional stain the deck for us. The color is peach to orange and looks bad. It is flat and what I would say cheap looking. Not happy at all with this product. I was hoping to use on all our decks, but I am done with this product and will look at getting stained a better color with a better product.
Jay, TWP and most decking stains will have a \”flat\” non shiny appearance as they are penetrating semi-transparent stains. They do not film on top of the wood, creating a shine. Shiny coatings on a deck create major issues with peeling and mold. Always best to test colors out first as well. Many companies offer samples. Sorry you did not like the appearance.
I am building a new home and using Western Red Cedar tongue and groove siding. Home will be done by mid summer 2014. Milwaukee Wisconsin area.
The Western Red Cedar Lumber Association strongly recommends pre staining, and staining ALL sides of the cedar. TWP has directly told me NOT to do this, to only stain the exposed area, and only do so after 6-12 months of exposure (using the gemini restore kit first).
I know you guys here really like TWP, but I have also read it is not your favorite for brand new weed, or first time applications. Can you give me your thoughts on back staining siding and what stain you do recommend for first time application? the cedar association strongly recommended applying stain before the wood is exposed to elements. It just makes sense to me, but I do not want to use a stain that will peel or fail.
Thanks, looking forward to your comments.
Mike, as contractors we never pre stain all sides prior to install. The stain is really just for exposed areas and would have little to no benefit for the back (unexposed) areas. All stains are different though so best to follow manufacturers suggestion on this. For new wood we like to use Armstrong Clark as it does penetrate the wood better. Either TWP or Armstrong should have new wood season for a time before install. A light cleaning is needed as well to open the grain and remove the mill glaze. This articles will explain better: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hello, I'm planning to stain a pine privacy fence about 190' in length and 4.5' tall and a small deck area about 100 square feet. How many gallons of TWP 1500 stain would I need to cover this area? The RAD product description says how many feet of fence it can clean…is there something similar for TWP 1500 stain? Thanks. -Steve
Steve, what is the total sq. footage and I assume you are doing both sides of the fence?
Yes, both sides of the fence. The total square footage I calculate is 1,810 (190' L x 4.5' H x 2 [both sides of the fence] + 100 sq ft for the deck). Is my calculation on point or is there a better method?
Coverage is about 150-200 for the first coat and 200-300 for the second coat. You would need about 15-20 gallons for the 1810 sq. feet.
Hello, just want to thank you for this awesome site…ok so I rented a floor sander and brought splintered deck to smooth surface. I stripped and brightened my 8 year old redwood deck…I chose 3 gallons of California Redwood. Will that be enough for my 600 sq. ft. deck…plan on doing two coats?
Rebecca, for one coat you would want about 4 gallons and for 2 coats you would need 6 gallons. Two coats \”wet on wet\” only if the wood is very thirsty and the first coat penetrates in deeply.
Let me save you some hassle…be prepared to ensure perfect wood conditions prior to application.
I bought 5 gallons of TWP1500 for three separate applications:
#1 – a 12 yr old fence/pergola prevoiusly treat with Olympic semi transparent stain prior to VOC regulations (lasted very well). To prepare wood: I stripped then neutralized using a oxalic acid based brightner
#2 – a 6 month old untreated swimming deck. To prepare wood: I used a deck cleaner with stiff bristle brush to remove mill glaze, etc
#3 – a 3 yr old deck previously treated with newer voc compliant Olympic stain which would only last one season on horizontal decking. To prepare wood: the deck had not been treated in 2 years and, since the horizontal surfaces were virtually barren of any color or water resistance I used a stiff brush and deck cleaner.
All surfaces were power washed and left to dry for over a week. We've had a very long dry spell in the North East. Daytime temps have been mid 70's to lower 80's and low humidity.
Results are mixed but overall disappointing. On projects #1 and #2 surface preparation was by recommended procedure, however, on all three projects there are areas that simply have not dried after 7 days of curing. This seems to be directly related to the specific areas of the wood, maybe knots or denser areas, and also areas that may not have been stripped or prepared perfectly. They simple would not totally absorb the stain. What is left is a sticky puddle with no apparent ability to dry.
Now to be fair TWP label says areas must be stripped, etc .. but let me tell you THEY MEAN IT. Residue seems to be a bees-wax like consistency and now will require some form of remediation. Even on the fence project , which was thoroughly and methodically stripped, I still have areas the will not dry. It seems a product designed to "perfect wood conditions" Is it possible that this VOC compliant product must be manufactured in such a way the significantly effects its ability to absorb? I would love to have the "non-compliant" Series 100 to see the difference.
To help remediate the condition (which by no means do I recommend nor do I know the long term effects) I took a heat gun and briefly (3 or 4 seconds) warmed the area. like I said ..it seems like bees wax.. then wiping with an old cotton cloth. The result removes the sticky puddles but the surface is very slippery… not something I want on a deck nor do I want the hassle of doing this of several hundred square feet.
I say that I will not use the product again but I am not sure anybody living in VOC complaint states have much of a choice (if this is in fact the reason behind the performance of this product.)
Jon, sorry you had drying issues. As contractors we have found that there are two reasons a stain will not dry correctly. Over applying, improper prep, or combination of both. If the stain absorbs 100% into the wood then it will not have any issues. If it cannot absorb into the wood all the way then the stain will \”film\” on top of the wood, creating shiny spots and stickiness. As contractors it is easy for us to understand how much stain is enough. As a homeowner it can be difficult to understand that \”more is not better\” and to know when you are over applying.
This is a valid point but this can happen with any stain brand and more so with VOC stains. We will write a article soon on the subject.
Thanks for the post.
I wanted to make a comment on what Jon typed about TWP 1500 series. I just finished a large project using to TWP 100 series on new wood – old wood – treated and cedar – various mix of woods. I tried the darkest color in the 1500 series on one of my post caps only to experiment as I wanted dark caps. I did notice a difference in how long it took for the 1500 series to dry compared to the 100 series. I'm almost 100% percent sure I applied to much stain on it because a lot of cracks and crevices to get into…but the other post cap I did the same thing on using the 100 series. I didn't however see any sticky stuff the next day on that one. I can see where being conservative with the brush on the 1500 series might be good. The 100 series is a little more forgiving as I think unless you are heavy handed with the second coat it dries right up like the first coat.
i still dont know the difference between TWF 1500 and TWF 100. How to know which is better in which circumstanses? Please advise. thank you.
Thomas, it is mainly a VOC difference. Where do you live?
michigan. cold winters, alot of snow, hot summers.
Thomas, either the 100 or 1500 Series for MI. I believe most use the 100 Series there.
Greetings. I posted earlier regarding a 20 plus year old pressure treated deck exposed to all the element in Northern Vermont. Hardly ever treated, wood exposed to the sun is cracked and has deteriorated in some sections. Areas not receiving the full brunt of the sun are remarkably in good shape after hours and hours of power washing to remove dirt, grit and mold. Wanting to get down to to bare wood, I have also done a great deal of power sanding – most sections look almost brand new.. The boards that don't look new will be flipped to use the underside. Question – should I use TWP 150o this fall after using the wood restore product or wait until the spring to allow the pore of the wood to open?
Thanks!
Michael, I would wait until Spring. It will work better that way. Might want to consider the 100 Series if available in your area. It penetrates a little better.
Ann, yes you need to clean and brighten after heavy sanding. This will remove the dust and open the grain of the wood so the stain can penetrate deeper. You still have plenty of time to stain.
I have a new picnic table and bench set made out of pressure treated yellow pine that has not been stained or sealed. I want to apply a light color stain/sealer to it, would TWP-1500 be the best product? If so, would one application be enough since it is new and would I need to use any type of cleanser/brightner prior to applying the stain. My goal is to use a 2-gal pump sprayer to apply the stain.
Gary, please read this article on staining new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I have a new cedar deck in Seattle and unsure whether to stain now (September), weather permitting, or just wait next summer. From what I've read on your awesome website, I could use Armstrong Clark now, or I could wait until say July next year and use Defy Extreme or TWP 1500. I prefer to delay, but I'm wondering if there's a significant advantage to staining now. Thanks.
Leslie, it would not hurt to get something on the wood now. Armstrong is an excellent product. You could apply one coat now and another next year.
Hi – I've have a pressure treated fence that is three years old, a deck that has just been added onto so it is a combo of old and new. Old part of deck just stripped – new part of deck added last summer and steps just finished two weeks ago. I am confused if I can/should use the same stain on all of it. Floors are yellowwood and rails are cedar with iron balusters. I have samples of messmers and TWP (both 100 and 1500) and like the looks of the TWP stain better but have only tried it on the fence so far. What advice can you give me? I'm in Missouri and deck gets full sun most of the day.
Tammi, same stain for all the wood. I would use the 100 Series for this. Make sure all the wood is prepped first.
So just to make sure I understand – I should clean and brighten old and new wood both and TWP will be fine on newer parts ? From reading other posts it sounded like I should not use it on newer wood ? Also thought about just leaving steps until spring – would that be better choice?
Tammi, since it is just the steps I would do it all. You can always touch up the steps next year as needed.
Great – thank you so much. As others have stated, reading advice not only on our own decks but others helps a lot. Appreciate it.
Thanks for the advice – my deck turned out awesome . I used the 100 series – Pecan color- it all looks great. If anyone questions using the cleaner and brightner – it makes all the difference. I stripped off some very dark Behr stain/paint on my older deck- cleaned and brightened everything and the whole deck looked the same color before starting. Very happy with the results. I did have a scrubby brush and a power washer. I do not think I would of gotten the same results with a garden hose. That mill glaze is like snot when scrubbing it off- I can tell on the parts that didn't get as much scrubbing that the stain just kind of dries on top. After almost completing the whole process – the staining part is the easiest and the cleaning/prep part is the hardest but most important!
Glad to be of help!
Will TWP 1500 clear work well on a Gloster teak outdoor table which is exposed to the harsh sun near the beach in so Cal? Would you recommend something else?
Also, which TWP color would you recommend to maintain the natural IPE color of a deck, again exposed to So Cal sun?
Deck Master, the clear will gray in months. Need a tint. 1515 Honeytone is the lightest.
Between TWP 1500, Defy Epoxy and Defy Extreme, which would be best to use on OLD siding previously sealed with Penofin's rosewood-nut oil?
Which will:
1. resist Mildew growth?
2. not darken as it ages?
3. allow the many colors of cedar to show through?
4. reinflate the cellular structure of the wood?
What chemical should be used to strip the Penofin?
Do you know any contractors in Los Angeles who have used any of these three sealer-stains?
Thank you for this site. I have learned a lot,
Bill, you are very limited for LA and I believe only the TWP 1500 can be used there. TWP is a registered EPA product for mold prevention and it does not darken over time but lightens. The Restore A Deck Stripper or HD80 for the removal of the Penofin. Brighten when done.
Does anyone have comments on whether TWP 1500 cedartone or redwood is a better color – for staining a fence. Thanks!
RLH, either is fine. The Redwood is pretty red.
What store location is in my area, I am in Walnut Creek, CA 94596
Just applied 1500 to cedar deck, had 15 hours to dry before raining for 2 days now. I can see that the water is not soaking into the wood (looks to have a good seal). Question is I can see oily residue in rain water that is puddling on the deck, did it not have enough dry time? Have not even walked on it or put furniture back as it has not dried yet fom the rain.
David, it may not be completely cured. I would leave it alone and let it dry out after raining. Most likely it is fine.
i used thompson water seal on my deck last year after power washing off Behr..never to use that again… this year we flip over our deck boards and wash with wolman cleaner…deck looks & feels brand new again! now time to protect it…my husbands is leaning toward TWP 1500…is it ok to use sense i clean the deck with a different product? thanks Barb ; from Iowa
puppies for sale, it should be as long as the wood is absorbent for the stain.