This post was updated on April 4, 2025
TWP 1500 Series Stain Update 2026
We find that the TWP 1500 Series Stain to be the best performing oil-based deck stain on the market. We personally use the TWP 1500 Series Stain on deck restorations every year in the Midwest and is one of our go-to brands.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain
TWP 1500 Series was introduced in the Summer of 2010 as the replacement for the TWP 500 Series. TWP 1500 stain is a semi-transparent oil-based wood preservative registered by the EPA. The only deck preservative that is currently registered as an exterior wood preservative.
TWP 1500 Series is designed for all exterior unfinished wood. It has excellent UV resistance from graying. It is mostly used for exterior wood decking, wood fencing, log homes, cedar sided homes, etc. TWP 1500 comes in 10 colors that allow the natural grain of the wood to show through.
TWP Stains – 1500 Stain Rating
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series had a beautiful rich look to the wood. The wood grain was highlighted naturally. 1501 Cedartone color was slightly brown for a traditional cedar color.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
– Excellent at preventing UV graying at the two-year mark. One of the top stains that we have tested in terms of absorbing the UV radiation that causes oxidation of the wood.
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
– Very good at preventing peeling. TWP penetrates deep into the wood. This seems to reduce any chance of wearing or peeling at the surface.
TWP 1500 Series
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
– TWP 1500 Series cost us $194.99 for a 5-gallon pail delivered. This breaks down to $.35 per foot for 2 coats of stain on our 400 square foot deck. We still had 1.5 gallons left when done. The coverage for the TWP 1500 was close to 200 square feet per gallon.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
– Of all of the oil-based stains we tested, TWP offers the best protection against mold spores that are known to grow in oil-based stains. This is most likely due to the oils used in TWP’s stains. They do not use linseed oil but rather a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.
Ease of Application: 8
– For an oil-based stain, the TWP 1500 series applied well. We did notice that you need to back brush any puddles to ensure an even application. This is normal for most of the stains that we have tested. TWP 1500 Series did dry to the touch in 6 hours and we were able to put the furniture back on the deck the following day.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 9
– The 1500 series did not “darken” in color like other oil-based stains have been known to. TWP actually lightened up slightly at the 2-year mark. This gave the wood a more natural-looking feel.
Difficulty of Reapplication: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series would be an easy stain to reapply. A normal wood deck cleaner would be used to remove some dirt and grime, prepping for another coat.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Series at 2 Year Period: 8.5
– TWP 1500 Series (and 100 Series) have been known to provide tops in terms of durability and color retention. They have always been one of the best stains and are one of our top choices. Little to no fading on the railings. The deck surface faded to about 75% of the stain’s initial color after 2.5 years.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500 Series
Cost: $46.99 per Gallon, $234.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 250 Compliant in All 50 States
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Western Red Cedar
Deck Square Footage: 400
UV Exposure: Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: 1501 Cedartone
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Photos
TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video
Applying TWP in 1503 Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
We could not be happier with the 1500 TWP Cedar tone. We love the way it looks. It was easy to apply,
Looks great!
Hi there:) So happy that I found this site! Bought a 1970″s Pan Abode cedar log home kit. Previous owners didn’t maintain the cedar logs well. Can’t sandblast or power wash because it’s like Lincoln Logs and no chinking so water, sand etc gets through he logs into the house. So, painstakingly wire brushing and sanding old stain off to bare wood best we can. Plan on retaining in a dark mahogany semi transparent stain so can see the grain but cover well to hide any mistakes or oops. Any preference as to satin should use? Here in northern NH it’s pretty damp and New England weather. Many folks here use Sikkens products or Ben Moore “Arborcoat”. Not familiar with the products I’ve read here but will take your advice!
Thank you for what you do!!
Some pics of the house,
Robin Nolan
Shelburne, NH
Stop with the wire brushing. It can leave metal in the wood that will turn black from rust when water get on it. Best to power sand this all off if you cannot pressure wash. Once fully removed, the TWP 1500 would work very well.
is twp 1500 stain available in canada
No, it is not allowed in Canada. You can buy the TWP 200 Series and have it shipped there.
Such an incredible stain, we’re ecstatic! It beads rain like mercury and look forward to many years of satisfaction!
Thanks TWP!!!!!
Does TWP 1500 series contain paraffin oil like the TWP 200 series?
No.
I prepped and applied TWP 1500 to our cedar deck 3 or 4 years ago, and it looked fantastic. It has held up very well, but needs to be touched up. I am planning on using the same product in the same shade. Can I use deck cleaner and brightener or should I use a deck stripper and brightener before using the TWP 1500?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit. It is a Cleaner and Brightener.
Can the TWP series 1500 stain be applied over aTWP series 100 stain?
If you prep it with their kit, you should be okay.
Can this product be appiled with a garden type sprayer and then backed brushed?
Yes you can do that.
I did not have as good of luck with TWP-1500.. Evidently, it’s not a true oil base stain but a hybrid of some kind.. Floor was rolled consistently and some areas just didn’t take, leaving these shiny spots.. It’s been 2 years and contractors are talking about stripping so they can re-do with a true oil..
That is not true. TWP 1500 is not a hybrid but a true oil based stain. The issue you had is not related to the TWP stain itself but improper prep or over application or a combo of both. Doesn’t matter what brand of stain you use, if you do not prep or apply correctly, you will have issues.
Ask a Question or Post a Review…Thanks for reply. I was told it is “formulated” oil. Deck was pressure washed before staining. So TWP 1500 would not have to be stripped to go over with any oil base stain ??
TWP 1500 is a true oil based stain. You always have to strip/brighten when you switch brands. Does not matter the base.
Your issue is the first application/prep was done incorrectly. To fix, you will need to strip and brighten.
Ask a Question or Post a Review…Picture above is from 2017. This picture is same area taken March, 2019. If we went with TWP-1500 again, would you still recommend strip and brighten ? If so, do you have recommended products and process ??
Yes on the strip and brighten. That way you can make sure it fully soaks into the wood grain. Use the Restore-A-Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits and light pressure washing. It will clean up very easily.
When you apply the TWP, make sure that you apply only as much as the wood can absorb it. You can also back wipe off any excess stain that does not soak in 45-60 minutes. If you back wipe, make sure to saturate all oily rags in water when you are done and lay flat to dry.
Just thought I would post a comment regarding the application/use of TWP 1504 (Dark Walnut). It was very easy to apply using a brush which is recommended. The TWP went on as advertised. In fact, the coverage was better than expected. I let the salt treated deck boards weather a little more than a year and then pressure washed (after bleach application). Just make sure you follow the instructions. One thing that was excellent was the support from the manufacturer, AMTECO/Gemini. Any questions – no problem. I recommend this product.
cedar floor deck after power washing 20&14 how many gallons
2-3 gallons for the 2 coats applied wet on wet.
We have a relatively new (2 year old) pergola in Los Angeles… common fir construction lumber.. that was originally only given a quick coat of Ready Seal oil based stain. We now want to add far more protection to the the stability of the wood..as well as protect from the graying. We are looking at wood cleaning and then one coat of C2 Guard product (clear deep penetrating protector) and then a coat of TWP 1500 Cedartone stain. The C2 Guard is rather remarkable at deep and longer wood protection from water … not something we would have to apply again for 7 to 10 years.) The C2 Guard is designed to be good before staining. However… I do wonder of such construction lumber… will be able to receive much of the TWP stain after the C2 Guard. The C2 guard would give us much more confidence that we have given this some lasting protection…but I am wondering if it will also limit receiving any valuable stain over it that will serve color and UV values. We know that TWP 1500 has good wood protection itself… but presume not as deep and lasting as the C2 Guard which could serve as a base.
The C2 is more of a penetrating product that reacts with the alkali in the wood that “supposedly” creates an internal seal that helps to reduce rot. There is really not much proof that these products will actually work though. More of a theory. Wood has a very little amount of alkali compared to say concrete. Personally, we think these products are a gimmick. If you want to use it though, it should not hinder the TWP’s ability to work.
FYI, make sure to strip off the Ready Seal.
Thank you so much. I know there is little research to be found on that or similar products. Like a few who have used it… it seems to all in me have good waterproofing effect… but I too wonder.
Big question – when you state to strip Teady Seal… since that is an oil semi transparent and we will be putting on TEP which is oil based semi … we were not planning to sand but rather just use cleaner … scrub… power wash off. Will that be enough?
No. Use a stain stripper and a wood brightener for the prep. The RS needs to come off. Like this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Is this stain good for pool decks that use chlorine
Yes but just an FYI, all deck stains will become bleached out from excessive chlorine splashed on the wood.
My house has natural cedar stain over cedar. I am doing over deck and railings with PT should that be darker color than house ?????
Not sure what you are asking? You can do the new deck in any color you like.
Can TWP 1500 be used for cedar shake roof shingles?
Yes it can.
Oh ya…one year and look!
Hello,
We moved this comment based on you posting in the wrong product review. From the picture, it looks like when you stained the deck last year it was new. It also looks shiny and over-applied in the picture on the right. This happens when new wood is not prepped correctly and or too much stain is applied. TWP suggest 4-12 months of natural weathering for new wood and prepping with their Gemini Restore Kit before applying the one coat of stain. They also suggest another light coat in 12-24 months. All this is due to the fact that new wood is not absorbent enough to handle a 2-3 year application of stain. After these first initial steps, the reapplication time is every 2+ years.
For more info on what you possibly did wrong and how to treat new wood, please see this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am sanding the paint off my 104 year old covered porch. Not new or exotic wood. Thinking about TWP 1500. Amy suggestions?
That would work but for final prep, use their Gemini Restore kit after the sanding. The 1500 will soak in better if you do.
How well does the TWP 1500 series fill for some cracks in deck floor boards? As a stain I would imagine not very much for filling purposes. You have recommended I use this for my deck in a previous post and was curious. Thank you!
Hello, TWP is a penetrating stain. Penetrating stains do not “fill” cracks at all. No need to fill cracks as it is normal for wood to have some minor cracks.
I applied the stain to my mohagany deck with a 4″brush as recommended. It went on easily and seemed to penetrate. It looks beautiful! However, it’s 24 hours later and it’s still “wet”. I applied a thin layer initially, then 6 hours later, when it wasn’t yet dry, I went over it with a dry rag. The amount of stain not soaking in is unbelieveable. The decking was properly prepped and power washed several days ago and the weather is clear and dry. I was expecting better results, faster drying, but walking on it it’s wet – it stains my feet. When will it dry? Help!
Margaret. TWP is not suggested for exotic hardwoods like Mahogany. Was the Mahogany new wood? It will dry, but it could take a day or two.
We power washed our deck and sanded it. It was old (2000) and never stained. looks good now just some cracks here and there. We are thinking of staining it and not painting it. What do we need to do after sanding? wash off? let dry for a few days before staining? What stain do you recommend to still show grain but also make deck look new. TY 🙂
Light cleaning with a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Let dry for a few days and stain. Try TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark.
I installed new pt deck
Torched deck to create burnt look
Wondering how I could uv protect with one of your clear products wanna keep look without staining was thinking tung oil but friend told me to check out TWP
as I don’t think tung oil will uv protect
Tung oil will not UV protect nor will a clear by TWP. For UV protection, you must have color/tint in the stain.
I have a mahogany deck in CT. Just had deck sanded and applied TWP 1500 Honeytone. The finish is very dull and does not have the rich luster I was expecting. What can I do to address this? More coats? Mineral spirits?
TWP is a penetrating stain that soaks into the wood grain. It is not supposed to be shiny. Adding additional coats or adding anthing on top that would create a shine would result in product failure and extreme diffculty in fixing, once it starts to fail.
I have a one year old redwood deck in Napa, California – Full sun exposure, I just stain last month with Behr Semi-transparent redwood. It looks orange-red. I plan to drum sand failed color stain off.
Questions:
1) Should I Strip & sand failed color stain off or can I just drum sand stain off?
2) What Grit sandpaper should I use to remove failed color stain?
3) What stain should I use to have a natural clear redwood grain look (Buckskin tan look)? I was thinking about TWP1500 (Clear) but concerned about full sun exposure & graying?
1. Strip what you can and then sand.
2. 60-80 grit
3. No UV protection with clear products. Need color for UV protection. Not sure what you are looking for, but would suggest that you try some samples.
If I mix the twp1500 (clear) with twp1511 (CA. Redwood) does the color become a lighter version of twp1511 (CA. Redwood).
Yes but will also have half the UV protection so it will fade faster.
I have a 20 year old cedar deck in the Seattle area. With all the rain we get up here, which stain do you recommend for wet areas like mine ? The 1500 series with less mineral spirits and more oil, or the 100 series with more mineral spirits and less oil in the product ? I understand that the 100 series has a slightly better penetration into the wood. Is that the key to longevity in my case ? I would like to get as many more years out of this deck as possible.
Use the TWP 100 Series.
Cedar deck, last coated with Sikkens SRD about 2 years ago, stripping, brightening, then applying TWP 1503. I'm replacing several rotted deck boards with new cedar. Question – should I leave those boards off the deck until finished applying TWP? I've read the aging requirement for new wood, and easiest way to NOT finish them now would be to install after finishing. Is this the right approach?
Yes you could do this. Probably easier.
We just had a brand new cedar deck installed 2 weeks ago. The contractors stressed we should pressure wash then seal or stain the new deck as soon as possible (within the next couple weeks) to prevent the wood from drying out. We live in Missouri and the weather over the last couple weeks has been rainy and severe heat. We have noticed a couple small cracks shows up on the decking boards and a large crack in one of the side boards. If we wait a few months to allow the wood to weather it will be getting into winter. Would you still suggest we wait to treat the deck or what stain/sealer would you recommend we use?
Wait to dry out and prep is the way to go. FYI, cracks are normal for exterior wood and will happened not matter stained or not.
I just had a new cedar deck built in Chicago, Illinois about 2 weeks ago. Do I need to clean and brighten it or just apply the TWP1530 stain? I would like to stain it before the winter. If I wait 3 months, I probably won't be able to stain it until next Spring. What do you suggest? Thank you.
You cannot stain this now with TWP. They want 4-12 months for weathering and yes you need to clean and brighten. See this for more info:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hello: We live in central TN and are in the proces of building a new home. The large screened porch and the open deck area are both pressure treated pine and will have aged about 6 months before staining. I've read many of these articles and still am not sure whether to use TWP 100 or 1500. I'm guessing that 100 might be best for the sheltered, screened porch, but 1500 best for the exposed deck…but I only want to use ONE product.. Which might be best? Thank you
We would use the 1500 Series for all.
Hey, we live in Jacksonville FL and have a large deck area covered with Ipe Brazilian Hard Wood Decking. What is the most appropriate stain/sealer for this application in our environment — very warm to outright hot during the summer months, very humid and cool to cold winters with light night time freezes warming again during the day. Our deck wraps around a pool and backs-up to a nature preserve with lots of trees.
Any suggestions and recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
TWP is not suggested to exotic hardwoods. Look at one of these products:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/ipe-stain-review…
A contractor has applied a mixture of series 200 and 1500. The deck is older cedar. Last stained with Cabot. The contractor used the newer one step cleaner & over-power washed the deck. The end result is a blotchy, almost chalky appearance. It just looks terrible. My question is should the deck be stripped with the one step product or the original method with two steps. Caution to everyone. Don't let a contractor apply anything but one product. This contractor tells me he makes a practice of mixing TWP stain series. I suspect it is whatever he has on hand. The blotchy nature of the application cannot be over stayed. Also, two weeks later, stain comes up with a rag and scratches with my fingernail.
Not sure what you mean about newer One Step cleaner? Now that he over applied and mixed the stains, it will need to be stripped (not cleaned). This will not be easy as it is difficult to remove a newly applied stain and even more so when over applied. Try the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and pressure washing to remove. You may need to strip and pressure wash a few times to remove all of the stain. Once completely removed, you can apply the RAD brightener that will neutralize the stain stripper and lighten the wood to the proper pH balance.
Hi – I live in Southern California and I am about to install some accent T&G cedar siding on my remodel, making it a bit contemporary looking. The cedar will be clear grade, but still have not decided between real red cedar and engineered cedar siding such as Coulson cedar. The wood will have lots of sun exposure, not too much rain. I'd like to preserve the natural grain of the wood as much as possible. People at Ganahl lumber were recommending Penofin, but after reading some posts and reviews I am weary of its short time to reapplication and problems with mold. I'm considering TWP 1500 and Defy extreme, but both of these appear to recommend weathering the wood a bit before application. What is your recommendation for this type of cedar application? Do you have any advice for the coulson engineered product ? Thank you!
The TWP would work well. Make sure to prep by removing the mill glaze after letting the wood season for 4+ months.
Hi – We have a combination of new redwood deck and old redwood deck. We cleaned and prepped using Restore-a-deck kit. We got samples of TWP 1500 Rustic Oak and TWP 1500 Dark Oak. Rustic was too red and dark oak seemed to look rather black in the areas that had heavy grain. What we wanted was something that was more red but darker. So we did a combination of 5:1 Rustic to Dark Oak. On our samples it looked just fine, but when testing it out it has more of a burgundy/barn red type of color which we wanted to avoid. Is there anything we can add or switch proportions of in order to get a slightly warmer shade?
If I absolutely cannot live with the shade and want to switch it the next time with Pecan, do I have to strip again or can I reapply over it? Even pecan has slightly more yellow tones than I would have liked. TWP has great reviews, but I just cannot find a color that I like unfortunately 🙁 Your advice will be greatly appreciated.
Maybe more dark oak? 50/50 or 70% rustic to 30% dark oak. Yes you will have to strip if going with the Pecan later as it is lighter in color.
Hi – I'm in Portland, Oregon and had planned on using Penofin Red Label until I read the reviews on graying. Our deck is new kiln-dried cedar all south facing to the sun at the base of a two story house. Black algae and moisture are just facts of life for any wood or roofing on any side of the house. (1) What waiting time do you recommend before cleaning, brightening and staining? (especially since it is about to hit the rainier season)? (2) What are the top 3 staining products you'd recommend for this situation? And if TWP is among them, which product and why? (3) How critical is using a brush vs. a pad for application? Am seeing conflicting advice out there. (4) What should I be concerned about if I need to do this in cooler weather (45 -55). Thanks!
1. See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
2. TWP, Defy Extreme, AC
3. Does not matter as long as it penetrates. We like pads better.
4. Cooler weather means longer dry and cure times. Cannot freeze either during this period.
HI…I prepped a new redwood deck after waiting for 4 months of letting the tannins weather in the sun. When I applied TWP 1530 Natural in the shade, on a warm day…..it worked perfectly. WhenI applied the oil stain to warm (NOT hot) boards in direct sun, I got a glaze of sorts on the sun boards, and some of the oill did not penetrate….I was speculating that because I was working over 2 days, dipping the pad directly into the 5 gallon bucket, that the volatile oils has evaporated off to some extent, leaving me with a thicker oil to apply to the warm boards…..hence the lack of penetration. What do I do to remove the extra oil from the boards on the deck??
RLPatterson
It probably started to dry in the sun before it had a chance to absorb into the wood fully. Try wiping the deck down with paint thinner and rags. You need to take precautions with your stain rags when done. We always saturate them with water to avoid accidental spontaneous combustion!
Four years ago, we stained our deck in Northern West Virginia, using Olympia semi transparent. We had let the new deck weather 6 months before staining. Not knowing better, we put 2nd coat on because the stain didn't penetrate. First winter, it started peeling. We decided to let weather for past several seasons. Now, we have sanded and are going to clean w behr cleaner and all in one. Liking the sounds of TWP. Which TWP would be better if we can't get all the semi off from previous? Area: hot, humid summers, full morning sun to full shade, heavy winters w sun, deck has under deck roof system for patio below it. Any suggestions?
You have to get it all off when switching brands. Try a stain stripper and wood brightener instead of a cleaner. Use the TWP 1500 oe 100 Series when done.
Thanks 🙂
Thank you for this terrific forum! We live in central Texas. Our hot humid summers often include many long 100-degree days. We used many of the more well-known brands over the years to great dissatisfaction, but in 2002 a 150-yer storm and flood made it necessary to replace our 1000 sq. ft. cedar deck. We were glad to see it go. And in 2003 we installed 1000 square feet of new Western Red Cedar, kiln-dried, but despaired of how to preserve it. Our deck is in full sun 12 hours a day. So my husband and I tried an experiment–we decided to test some 60 cut ends of W. Red Cedar boards after the deck was all finished, half staining them so we could also see what happened to the unstained pieces in full weather, the other half stained with every store sample deck product available to us in 2003, then left all 60 ends in the back yard (labeled for reference) in the elements, for three months. After three months, no fooling, hands down TWP was the obvious winner in (1) water resistance (beading up), (2) color-stay, and (3) moisturizing. So after 3 months of experiments, we hired "staining professionals" who sprayed on TWP series #300 (back then) Butternut on the deck. It puddled and dripped down below to a stone sidewalk, where they had great difficulty cleaning it off (after it dried on the stone). Bad application. I decided I could do no worse. So two years later when the color finally faded to yellow, I pressure washed it and prepped and after two days drying, took a sponge mop (wet it first, then wrung out) then applied a premixed 5 gallon bucket of Butternut and Redwood (purchased 6 gallons), by simply mopping it on. To my surprise I easily controlled the amount I applied and there were no puddles. The result was a beautiful Mahogany (brown with reddish highlights). We have photos. But red being the largest molecule, it burned off quickly, so the next year, 2005, I tried a radical mixture of 2 gallons #501 Cedartone (to increase penetration and moisturize), 2 gallons #502 Redwood for highlights, and 1 gallon #207 Butternut for pigment. This proved to be the best combination–durability, penetration, moisturizing the boards (like Oil of Olay on dry skin) and produced truly radiant color. In the Texas sun, however, this lasted one year. But application was a breeze, a very relaxing process, hardly any mess, and cleanup is the easiest. Plus, I could just use a new $6.00 sponge mop each year. That is, until the formula changed along about 2012. It was suggested I try a combo of #116 Rustic Oak, #103 Dark Oak, and 1502 Redwood. That formula almost lasted a year. In 2013 It was suggested I try 1516 Rustic Oak. but it lacked the color depth and duration previously achieved. Now I don't have the same great results and am relegated to using either #516 Rustic Oak or #1516… Read more »
Only the 500 Series was replaced about 7 years ago. The 1500 is the same as it always has been and the 100 has been the same since 1992. No other changes have been made. It may just be your deck has different weather patterns lately?
If you had a choice between the 100 series and 1500 series, which would you choose for your own personal deck?
They are both equally good when applied correctly. The 100 penetrates a little better and dries faster.
We have a pressure treated deck on our 2000 sq ft home in northwest Maine. Built in 1991. We recently used both stripper and power washed (this worked better than the stripper). It looks great, almost like new wood, however, there are still some small areas where, no matter how hard we tried, the solid stain would not come off. Tearing our hair out would not help either 🙂 The deck is too uneven (lots of grooves) to sand. So we feel we have done the best we can. We plan to put 1500 on the entire deck. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thank you very much.
You cannot blend a solid stain with a semi-transparent like the TWP 1500. Have you tried sanding the rest of the solid stain?
Yes, we tried sanding. Nothing works. The deck is 99% free of the other stain. We just are at wits end with the other 1%.
If you can live with the solid stain showing through a little then go ahead and stain with the TWP
Hello,
I have a pressure-treated porch that was installed 3 or 4 years ago. When it was installed, the boards were coated with a 2-year waterproofer (from Behr, I think). The vertical surfaces still have color (though not much water repelling properties) and the horizontal surfaces are quite worn. There is some mold on the wood. I'd like to stain it with either TWP 100 or 1500, but I'm unsure of the prepwork. Could you advise? Also, would the prep products harm vinyl lattice that is used on the skirting?
Thanks,
Bryan
Bryan, have to remove the Bher first before applying the TWP. Use a stain stripper and pressure wash off. Repeat if needed for difficult areas. Brighten all the wood after. Should not harm the vinyl.
What color will I get if I mix 5 gallons of black wanut 1500 twp stain into 2 gallons of honeytone 1500 twp stain??
No idea as we have never tried this combo.
I just cleaned my old pressure treated deck. It is still strong, but has a lot of cracks in the wood. Also, some minor splinters that I will cut and sand. At least one plank will be replaced. Will the TWP 1500 fill in the cracks at all? Please advise. I really rather not use a solid stain.
No a penetrating stain like TWP does not fill in cracks. The only way to do this is to use a solid stain and many of them will not fill either. Cracks in outdoor wood is normal. Best to just leave them and not worry.
I am putting in a brand new pressure treated deck and covered tongue and groove porch in the Milwaukee suburbs, which is east facing. I purchased kiln dried wood so it is ready for stain immediately after being installed. Would you recommend using TWP 1500 or TWP 100 for the project. I have read on several sites that the 100 is a better product. Thanks.
You should not stain kiln dried right away with TWP. Let sit out side for a month then clean and brighten for prep to remove the mill glaze. Use 100 Series.
Were in MN and just had a new 500sq ft cedar deck built. I was planning on staining with a semi transparent Sikkens as suggested by our contractor, but after going through your site i think we may use TWP instead. Is the 1500 series the best bet for nearly full sun, Southwest facing? MN winters and young kids as well…. thanks so much!
Yes that would be a good option for this deck and future ease of maintenance.
Do you have to put two coats on no matter what for TWP.
Not if new wood or if you are doing a maintenance coat of the TWP with the same.
After doing a detailed perusal of the reviews for all of the stains, the TWP 1500 appears to the best one for my project. We have a 1-year old pergola (just posts and cross beams, no walking surface built of pressure treated pine over paver patio. Unfortunately, after it was built in early summer of last year, it was not treated in any way (the plan was to stain at the end of the summer, after 1-2 months, but life got in the way), so now we are trying to determine the best approach and product for staining the pergola now that the bare pine has been exposed for about 12 months, including a harsh Ohio winter. Do you think the TWP 1500 is the right product for this project or is another product recommended? And what prepping should we do? Cleaner and brightener before stain?
Yes the 1500 would be a good option for this pergola in Ohio. Yes use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
I live California in the Sacramento area. Spent weeks filling all the nail holes and sanding the entire deck.used twp 1500 clear it looked great. We had a very mild winter very little rain. I now have black mold everywhere that is not under patio cover.now I will have redo eveything.
Couple of questions. Are you sure it is mold? It could be rust stains that look like mold. This could be due to how you sanded. If is is mold, is it \”in\” the stain or laying on top of the stain? TWP prevents mold growth in the stain but no stain or sealer on the market can stop mold from laying on top of the stain.
You might look into add a mildicide to TWP. Just a thought
I had a similar problem on certain areas of my deck. Since I only sanded a few areas I came to the conclusion that it was metal flakes/dust on the wood from sanding the screws. When it got wet it left dark stains on the boards. You will notice the same color around any fastener which is not weatherproofed in some fashion. I made a point to not sand the screws from there on out.
We have cedar siding that we've been staining with Sikkens ever since it was new, 24 years ago. Would we be better off sticking with Sikkens or switching to TWP 1501(cedartone)? We're in western Mass, next to Vt. The Sikkens has a beautiful luster and performs well on the north and east sides, but not as well on the south and west because of sun and weather. Thanks! And thanks for operating this excellent site.
For you to switch you would have to strip or remove all of the Sikkens and I am not sure you want to do that? TWP also does not have a shine/lustre so it may not have the same look you want? It is a penetrating oil based stain that has a matte or no shine.
Do NOT… I repeat Do NOT change at this point. I build an all redwood home 27 years ago here in Missouri. Sikkens is great, provided you do recoat it every 3 years… otherwise it will start to peel (like varnish), and the only way to restore it is to sand back to bare wood… Also, do NOT use Sikkens on any horizontal surface, as it will peel within the year. How do I know all this? Well, how many people have actually sanded and recoated a 4,500 sf house, and 1,500 sf of redwood deck (including all 441 stiles)??? Now, I use nothing but semi transparent oil based stain on the deck, and a "refresher" coat of Sikkens every 3 years… as much as I love the looks of the redwood… I'm getting to the age where I almost wish I'd bricked the whole thing…
Used TWP 1500 on my new deck 2 years ago. I built the deck with pine and after 3 months of the recommended drying process I stained it. 2/3 of the deck is covered and the uncovered part is already fading and the stain is thinning. All of the AZ sun exposed areas are fading even faster and the wood is drying out. This week I had some stain left over so I decided to restain the stairs and some of the heavily sun exposed areas. Before I stained them I used a steel brush and then a broom on the wood to knock off any dirty and loose particles. The stairs really soaked up the stain and turned darker than the original first staining. My wife and I really like the darker color and it looks like it will last much longer than the first staining. I think 4 to 6 months of new wood cure time would be better for green wood. The sap in the wood also keeps the stain from penetrating into the wood and time is the only cure for that to leach out. Restaing the deck after 2 years is disappointing but hopefully it will last longer this time and I wont regret painting it in the first place.
We are having a 12 x 16 deck built using Cedar. We are in Northern Ohio and the beginning of winter starting soon. We are wondering whether we should seal the deck now or wait until Spring. Warmer sunny days are a rarity now rather than the norm. Will it hurt any if we do decide to wait until Spring to do this? I hate the thought of trapping moisture into the wood right now by sealing it.
please read this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Is staining and sealing one in the same? I am assuming it is and that this article is for both treated and Cedar Decks. We were worried that the Cedar would start to lose its natural color if we waited until Spring…We want to keep it Natural and not turn Gray
Deck Stains seal wood as well but sealers do not necessarily have color so they will not prevent UV graying. Best are semi-transparent stains like TWP for penetration and color retention.
I live in upstate new York. I applied Twp 1500 in the summer of 2013 to my house which is sided in pine board an batten siding. The south side of the house which is completely exposed to the sun and weather has shown some spots that look like it might need another application just where there are knots in the wood and a few full length boards look very dry. Where the knot are they are sort of whitening out/ slash looking very dry. I was wondering what the process is to reapply twp 1500? Do you have to clean and brighten the wood or should just hit the knots with twp 1500 and wipe off the excess?
Knots are of higher density of wood and it is normal for a penetrating stain to be lighter in color around them. You could try touching up a pot and wiping off the excess. I would suspect though that ti will just lighten up again in a day.
Hello, we're going through the painful process of stripping / sanding a solid Behr stain applied by the previous owner and replacing a few rotten boards in our deck, we suspect the original ones were PTW or cedar, we're replacing with cedar. We're planning to stain with TWP1503 after using the RAD brightener. We're in Northern IL, so we get hot summer days and snow and lots of cold in the winter. My questions:
1. Should we stain this fall or wait until the spring? There are some boards that, while not truly rotten, seem like they could use a little "drying" time, e.g. the upper surface in some boards looks a little "slimy", especially where the stain was particularly thick and the sun didn't hit very hard.
2. Any suggestions on how to remove the "mill glaze" in the newer boards?
3. Are there any downsides to just priming and painting the vertical surfaces with a good primer and exterior paint? We don't have much of an issue having them be a different color.
Thanks again for all the info!!!
1. You could let it weather until Spring and ten clean and brighten for the final prep.
2. Weathering and the cleaner will remove the mill glaze.
3. Bad idea on this as it will peel.