TWP 1500 Series Review in 2026
Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s go-to site for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. Hearing from our customers who have used TWP 1500 stain in the past, their decks have held up to the test of time and weather after this harsh winter. It is also one of our top go-to stains for our restoration business. As always, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
- TWP 1500 Series is an oil-based, EPA-registered wood preservative compliant in all US states, unlike the TWP 100 Series.
- The stain earned an overall score of 8.44 out of 10 after a two-year real-world test on a 450-square-foot pine deck.
- UV protection is a standout strength, with close to 80% color retention on horizontal surfaces and no darkening after two years.
- Coverage runs 150 square feet per gallon for the first coat; new smooth wood should receive only one coat after proper seasoning and prep.
- Mold and mildew resistance scored a 9 out of 10, thanks to an EPA-registered fungicide combined with natural and synthetic oils.
- Reapplication every 2 to 3 years requires only a light cleaning, and the stain can be removed with a deck stain stripper if needed.
TWP 1500 Review
Important Note: This is our 2nd Review of the TWP 1500 Series. Our first review of the TWP 1500 Stain was started in 2010 and completed in 2012.
See Here for First Review: TWP 1500 Series Review
*Note: TWP 1500 and the TWP 100 are the only deck stains registered by the EPA as a wood preservative. TWP 1500 is compliant in all US states while the 100 Series is not.
TWP Deck Stains – 1500 Series Review
TWP 1500 Stain Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
For the pine deck, we used the TWP 1530 Natural. This is not a “clear” but rather a traditional cedar color in our opinion. The manufacturer stated they made this color in the 1500 Series to match the color of the TWP 101 Cedartone. This allows for an easy switch from the 100 Series for consumers who are in a low VOC state.
The wood grain was highlighted naturally with the 1530 Natural semi-transparent tint. The TWP 1500 does not mask or film on top of the wood grain.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8.5
Excellent at preventing UV graying at the two-year mark. For the vertical railings, the TWP 1500 lost very little of the color. For the horizontals, we saw close to 80% color retention.
Same results as last time and one of the better products for preventing color fading
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
The TWP 1500 penetrates deep into the wood reducing the chance of wearing. We find that the TWP 1500 Scored well here for a low VOC oil-based stain.
Note that when staining brand new wood with TWP, we have found that it is best to let the wood season in the elements for at least 3+ months. Once it is weathered, we prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener to enhance the stain penetration. Only 1 coat of the TWP 1500 for new smooth wood.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
TWP 1500 Series cost us $43 per gallon. Coverage for the TWP 1500 on the pine deck was close to 150 square feet per gallon for the first coat and 250 for the second coat. We used 5 gallons for the 450 sq. feet.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
No mold in the sunny areas of the deck floor. There was some mold growing on top of the TWP around the railings. This was close to a pine tree though and may have been the cause.
This result is normal with TWP products as they contain an EPA registered fungicide and a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.
Ease of Application: 8
TWP 1500 series applies fairly well. It is slightly thicker than the 100 Series so you do need to be careful, not over-applying. Make sure that all puddles that have not been absorbed in 30 minutes are wiped down. Best to apply with a stain pad. Attach this to a pole and “work” the stain into the wood. You can spray as well but you will need to back wipe for an even appearance. The TWP 1500 also takes a little longer to dry. Closer to 6+ hours. We have noticed that rain will not affect the 1500 Series as long as the stain has an hour or two to absorb.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 10
The 1500 Stain did not “darken” in color at the two-year review. This is excellent for an oil-based stain as many of the other brands have a darkening problem.
The Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
TWP 1500 Series can be reapplied with a minor cleaning first with a good quality deck cleaner. We have found that the TWP can be easily removed if needed with a deck stain stripper as well.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.44
TWP 1500 Series is one of the better wood and decking stains and is one of our top choices. As contractors, we really like stains that penetrate deep into the wood and can be reapplied without sanding. TWP 1500 fits this and more by adding excellent UV and mold protection. Maintaining TWP 1500 every 2-3 years is easy.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500
Cost: $46.99 per Gallon, $234.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1-2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”. Only 1 coat on new smooth wood.
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft for the first coat. 200-300 for a second coat if applied.
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 350 Compliant in all States (Registered as Wood Preservative by EPA)
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pine Treated Decking
Deck Square Footage: 450 Square feet
UV Exposure: 50% Full Sun, 50% Shade. South Exposure.
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Natural 1530*All products tested and results are from our experience as wood restoration contractors. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
TWP 1500 Series Deck Stain Photos
TWP 1500 Series Stain Review Video
Applying TWP in 1503 Dark Oak to Wood Fence.
https://youtu.be/xH6RnzN4M-c
Hi, the last two times I’ve stained my deck I’ve used TWP 1500. I’m wondering if I could switch to Defy Extreme, or if I would get better results sticking with TWP. I’m not unhappy with the TWP, just thought I would try a water-based stain.
I’m on Cape Cod, MA, near the ocean. I last stained 3 years ago and parts of my deck have a lot of algae growth.I plan on cleaning/powerwashing/brightening before staining.
No reason or advantage to switching.
Hi there,
I stained my screened in porch deck with TWP black walnut about 7 years ago. I would like to restain due to fading in sunny areas. Do I have to sand down to the wood or can I just clean and apply a new coat of TWP?
Use the TWP Gemini Restore A Deck Kit for prep.
Preping pressure treated deck in Ohio has previously been left 1st year then used behr lasting 5 years,stripped&sanded .Used Olympic elite very bad results.Stripped& sanded ongoing now>What are you recomendation to proceed and good stain recomendation?
After the prep, use the TWP 1500 Series.
Thanks for the helpful site! I applied 2 coats of TWP 1511 Redwood stain to my redwood fence almost 5 years ago. It still looks surprisingly good – mostly still the stain color – but of course seeing some greying. How should I prep for another coat or two of TWP? I have enough restore-a-deck cleaner and brightener leftover from 5 yrs ago. Should I use it again? Is the goal to scrub until the grey areas are gone? Is a brush good enough or will a pressure washer save a lot of time?
Yes, use the RAD again for the prep. Apply and lightly pressure wash off is the best and easiest way.
Posted this on the TWP 100 site, THEN found out can’t use it in NY State, in my area – Buffalo NY. – so I’m reposting here since it looks like TWP 1500 is the one we have to use. Hi – Have a pressure treated pine deck that’s just over a year old. Not been treated in any way and need to do it now before the snow flies. Live in Buffalo NY, so cold/snow. Looks like in reading about a number of stains by everyone – Behr, Ben Moore, Cabot, etc., TWP 1500 is the one that seems to be the best. We don’t want a solid stain, but would like to see grain, so a clear or semi-transparent. Would like something that will last the longest and give the best performance. Of course, we want the best protection against everything – peeling, cracking, color change, dirt, mold/mildew, etc. First Q: do we have to use the Gemini Restore kit first as mentioned in a couple posts? The wood has been weathered over a year, power washed last week and some boards sanded with 80 grit. Do we need to sand the rest of the boards? Is sanding really needed? 2nd Q: Since reading about some problems with mold/mildew, why can’t a mildewcide be added to this product to prevent that? Also, WHY do you not want to apply any of this product in the sun? Our yard gets direct sun and shade as the sun rotates around the yard. The whole deck is never all in shade at one time. Some part of it is always in sun until sunset, so we can’t avoid applying in sun. Lastly, someone asked how to tell which to use, oil or water based product. Your answer was: preference, whichever you want. My Q is: which one, oil or water, would be the easiest to apply, clean up after and reapply when needed? Do either have to be sanded when reapplication is needed (a big job)? Can either one just be power washed/cleaned without having to sand? We’re looking to use a semi-transparent as we want to see the grain of the wood. However, we also have posts and pergola tops, which would make having to sand when reapplication is needed a bear of a job, so we’d like the easiest way to do it all. Understanding the deck would get the most wear and need to be done sooner, but we would think at some point the posts and pergola tops would need to be done again. Should we use the oil or water based? BTW, in the picture, we don’t have the pergola tops up yet. They’re just “penciled in” to show people what it’ll look like. We’d like to get this done in the next week or so since the weather is supposed to be really nice. Not often the weather cooperates and we have a good 4-5 days of dry weather. Thanks very much for answering all… Read more »
– Yes, you have to prep with the Gemini Kit. No need to sand.
– No need. TWP already contains an EPA registered mildewcide.
– Sun issues: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/applying-a-deck-stain-in-full-sun/
– Oil-based is easier to reapply for most scenarios.
– TWP is not tracked into the house once fully cured in a few days or a week.
I live in Ohio and have a 22 yr old deck that has pressure treated pine boards with approximately 12 boards that were replaced 2 years ago. The new boards have never been stained. I hired a contractor to build a small addition onto my existing deck and they were supposed to begin working on it in 2 weeks. Contractor called today and stated that it would be mid to late October before they could begin work. I just completed pressure washing my deck last week to remove some of the old stain, algae, and graying on the newer boards. Much of the old stain remains especially in areas of shade and on the railings. Since I haven’t stripped the old stain off the deck yet, would it hurt to leave the newer deck boards exposed another year and just strip and stain the entire deck next spring including the new addition? I plan to use TWP 1503 dark oak.
Best to finish all in the Spring. You will be fine.
Do you recommend a specific product for cedar? Covered porch cold Maine climate? Thanks, Sue
The TWP 1500 works very well for cedar wood.
What is the best stain for a 9 month old pressure treated pine deck, full sun, Memphis TN area. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Bruce, use the TWP 100 or the TWP 1500 Series. Clen and brighten for the prep and just one coat for the first time staining new wood.
Can I darker the TWP 100 rustic stain with a coating of the dark oak?
You can mix them together and then apply.
where to purchase. Bellevue WA or Redmond Wa
Contact manufacturer for help.
I cleaned my deck with Thompson’s Heavy Duty Deck Cleaner. I would like to brighten, but the only one I have found is Thompson’s Deck Cleaner & Brightener. Is this a two-in-one product? Can I get away with using only a brightener (and not a cleaner+brightener)? If so, what is a good brightener-only product?
A true wood brightener is not a combo product. Use Restore A Deck Brightener.
I have a deck that the previous owner probably hasn’t treated in 9 years. I purchased the RAD Step 1 and 2. Can I simply just apply the TWP after pressure washing and using RAD Step 1 and 2? Thanks!
Yes but wait for the wood to dry for 48 hours.
Once stain is applied (TWP100), how long do I need to have a dry period? Is it OK to have rain fall on the stained deck within 24 hours of application?
It should be able to to take a rain in 8-24 hours as long as it soaks into the wood grain.
I have a new 5' cedars dog ear fence. Total length 90'. With both sides that is 900sq ft.
Since CO allow both 100 and 1500 which of the two would be best for a first coat?
I plan on using a pump garden sprayer to apply the TWP.
Use the 100 as it will soak into the new wood better.
"TWP 1500 Series cost us $38 per gallon. Coverage for the TWP 1500 on the pine deck was close to 1500 square feet per gallon for the first coat and 250 for the second coat. We used 5 gallons for the 450 sq. feet."
I am confused. You stated 1500 sq ft (150 maybe) on the first coat and 250 on the second. That seems backwards, especially since you needed 5 gallons for a 400 sq ft deck.
I have a 360 sq foot redwood deck plus railings to be stripped and re-stained. Would I need 4 or 5 gallons of stain?
The 1500 sq. feet was a typo. First coat applies at 150 and second coat applied at about 250 sq. feet. The second coat always spreads farther. You will need about 3-4 gallons for 360 sq. feet and the 2 coats.
I live in Raleigh North Carolina and have a KDAT pressure treated deck that was built in January of 2015. In June of 2015 the deck was power washed and stained with TWP 100 and here it is after only 16 months and the deck looks terrible (the boards have dark streaks, water doesn’t bead, boards are grayed out in places, etc.). In correcting this issue I have used Thompson’s Oxy Foaming cleaner along with Cabot’s Ready to Use Wood Brightener followed by power washing to clean up the mess but the boards still exhibit dark areas and streaking. The deck is partial sun and partial shade and it seems to be more troublesome in the sunny area. My gut feeling tells me to use a stripper to remove what is left and go back with an oil based stain instead of the TWP 100. What are your suggestions?
Hi Glynn,
It seems you did not follow the directions for new wood and TWP. You have to prep before staining with their Gemini Restore Kit to remove the mill glaze, only one coat should be applied, and they want another coat within 12-18 months. this is normal for new wood. See our article on this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
New wood just does not last very long the first time stained and this is normal with all stain brands. Your results with TWP will be better the second time staining
If you want to switch, you will need to strip and brighten for the prep.
A Couple of other things to mention. TWP is oil based and beading water is not important nor do high quality stains actually bead water, they shed and allow the wood to breathe.
I also live in Raleigh and have a new deck. Is your deck a new one or is this a re-stain, and was your stain transparent or semi-transparent? Thanks!
Massachusetts, PT porch facing northeast, so some sun but not much. Was constructed late fall 2015, planning to stain for first time this week. Someone recommended power washing it instead of using a cleaner since it's had minimal use and is still "new"ish. So, we did that, then sanded. Provided we clear off debris right beforehand, are we okay to use this product or do we definitely need to use the recommended cleaners as well? Feeling anxious about colder nights coming and causing application issues if we have to do additional prep, but obviously don't want to do bad job. Many thanks!
You will need a deck cleaner while pressure washing lightly and then brighten for the final prep. It will be easy and will allow the stain to absorb deeper.
I have approximately 500 sq. ft. of 2nd growth redwood full dimension 2×6 I milled on my band mill drying inside. I hoped to stain it before laying it down on the stringers. Would it be wise to stain all 4 sides, and if so what product and process would you advise?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
TWP wants the wood to be installed and weathered for 4-12 months. Prep first with a deck cleaner and wood brightener after the weathering and before the staining.
No need to stain all sides.
I just purchased 5 gal of TWP 1500 for my redwood deck and redwood fence. Live in california central valley. its hot in the summer over 100 degrees. I applied ducks back to the deck last year and I removed pretty much all of it with a pressure washer. do I need to do any further prep or can I just go ahead and stain?
As long as it clean and you removed all of the last coating, you should be okay.
Wonderful site! We have a new 1000 sf redwood deck in Southern California. Some of the deck get full sun most of the day, while the rest is covered by a patio cover. The deck has been seasoning for nearly six months now. We are considering TWP. We are very lazy people (at least I'm honest!), and want something that will wear well, and not be too much maintenance.
TWP 1500 would work well. Just one coat the first time staining. Clean and brighten for the prep first.
I have a new cedar fence that is about a month old. It appears to be rough sawn so can I use this right now as your article on new wood suggests? Not clear when the article says to let the wood dry. Does that mean I have to wait 4 months?
Dry as it is not visibly wet from rain. If rough sawn, you should be able to stain now.
We patched our weathered deck and now want to stain the entire thing. There is 10% new wood, the rest is old and grey. May I use the TWP 1500 after pressure washing the deck?
Prep with a deck cleaner and pressure washing. Brighten after. If you stain now instead of waiting the 4-12 months that TWP requires, then you will need to apply another coat to the new boards next Spring.
We are stripping off TWP Redwood from the previous owners. I believe it was TWP 1500. We live in Illinois so I don't think they used TWP 100 unless they bought it from out of state. How long as the 100 been unavailable in IL?
We want to use dark oak or black walnut. Do we need to be sure all of the redwood color is gone before applying the new stain color?
About 7-8 years ago, the 100 Series was removed from IL. It would be best to remove the old stain as much as possible. The Restore A Deck Stripper Kits will do it.
We removed as much stain as possible but now the new stain is really uneven. Any tips??
Post a picture in our forum. Thx
Live in Maine…… have a PT 15 year-old deck… am in the process of sanding it down to get rid of the weathering. Fairly sure I'm going with TWP1500, however, I'm concerned with how the stain color with look on the pt wood. With the greenish hue I wonder how this will affect the final color. Is there any kind of reference to view which would give an indication? TWP is only available via mail and I not like to make a mistake with color choice.
Have you considered some samples? This is always the best way to go as colors will vary when using a semi-trans stain based on your wood type, age, prep, etc.
Yes. I was trying to avoid the extra cost and thought there might be a reference picture of various stain colors on pt wood. On another note, when do I use a cleaner vs. a brightener —- I'm sanding everything right now so am getting most of that weathered look taken off.
Need advice. I live in Salt Lake City. Had a new redwood deck built last year. Used TWP 100 Clear two weeks after
being built. It was hand sanded down by contractor. Come spring it was all peeling and flaking. Some places the
finish is sill there but very few spots in the sun. The shade is not as bad but still poor. Deck is on south side. How should I restore this and with what product?
TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months for new wood to season and prepped with a deck cleaner. Sanding and waiting only two weeks was premature and the TWP never had a chance to soak into the wood correctly. Basically the directions were not followed correctly and caused your failure. Prep by using the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits. Stain again with the TWP, but if you want protection from graying, you will need a tint, not the clear.
I have a 2 year old cedar deck that has never been stained. We pressure washed then scrubbed with oxalic acid and it looks like new again. I live in Minnesota and the deck sees morning shade and hot afternoon sun and lots of winter snow cover. What treatment do you recommend? Considering Sikkens SRD and TWP. Would appreciate you're suggestions.
TWP for sure.
I have a five year old cedar deck in northern Illinois in full sun stained when new with semi transparent stain stripped horizontal boards and restained after two years I am now flipping boards but have to replace some plan on using hd80 and twp 15 00. Should I add new boards and then strip or strip the flipped boards then make repairs ?
Why are you using a stripper if you flipped the boards? Thee should be be any stain to remove. Use the Gemini Restore a Deck Cleaning Kits and the TWP 1500.
I have a pt pine deck in Syracuse NY that is less than 10 yrs. old. Horrible winters but deck is in full sun. It's been stained a few times with Sikkens Cetol SRD water based stain. Love the color and how it soaked into the wood but the floor turned dark and looked pretty bad where it's always in full sun. Sanded the deck down to bare wood and cleaned and brightened with Behr cleaner/brightener. Considering switching to the Sikkens oil based version, or possibly TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark. I've read more negative reviews for the TWP than AC but some seem to be from poor prep. Looks like I can use one coat with either one. Which one would you choose since I can't decide? Thank you.
Both TWP 1500 and the AC are excellent stains. TWP works very well for mold and that have been part of your problem turning dark.
Actually the deck floor only darkened where it is exposed to full sun. Would the darkening be caused by mold if it's in full sun?
It could just the stain you used. Certain brands like Super Deck and Penofin will darken in the sun, turing black. Lane and brightening should help.
Also, even after being sanded the section of floor that was fully exposed to sun is still darker than the rest of the floor.
We live in the NW and have left our new cedar deck "age" for over a year now and getting ready to apply the TWP cleaner/stain process (most likely the 1500 series) but the wife would like a darker stain on top of the railings and a lighter shade on the rails/flooring. Has anybody tried this combo?..or better just to stick with one shade? It's a rather large deck at nearly 900 sq.feet plus steps..so I have my work cut out for me this spring.
Lot easier to do just one color it can be done but you have to be extremely careful that none of the darker color get on the flooring.
Might be easier to get rid of the wife…
Very informative site, thank you. Beginning construction on a new PT pine deck in about 2 weeks. Pretty low/ground level, southwestern exposure, not much shade in the area yet. My question is this – I've been using the highly recommended TWP 100 in Honeytone to preserve the bamboo on some fence panels that went in about 3 years ago. The TWP simply does not do what I was told it does. Used it primarily to preserve the bamboo and prevent mold/mildew, but it just doesn't work in sun or in shade. After 4 separate TWP applications, removing the mold and mildew from the bamboo before I reapply, I'll still get mildew growth within a couple of months. My contractor still recommends TWP, but wondering if you have any alternate suggestions for my deck, or ideas why it's failing on the bamboo. Hesitant to stain/seal the new deck with a highly recommended product that doesn't seem to have worked for me. Thanks in advance.
Does the 100 Series actually penetrate into the Bamboo? I think you are using the wrong version. The TWP 300 Series is designed for Bamboo.
Sorry for the response delay – my original response doesn't seem to have posted. The bamboo was left to weather for a year before any coating was applied, so yes, it did penetrate. But I did have trouble sourcing TWP locally and the 100 was all I could find, so perhaps that's the root of my problem. TWP is highly recommended for bamboo in most Japanese garden forums, which is how I originally heard of it. If I end up not using it, what would be your alternate recommendation for my location? Thanks much.
The TWP 300 is recommended, not the 100. Try to find some of this. There is not any other options we know of.
I put TWP stain on our deck last summer. And I am so pleased the way it looks this spring! Is it a good idea to put on another coat or wait another year? And when we do put another coat on it, what is the best way to prep for another coat?
If it looks good, then leave alone. Next year, prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and reapply.
TWO YEARS AGO IN MAY I STRIPPED, SANDED, CLEANED AND BRIGHTENED (ALL GEMINI PRODUCTS) MY EAST FACING DECK IN MID MICHIGAN. I USED TWP 100 CEDAR TONE STAIN. LOOKED LIKE A MILLION BUCKS. HOWEVER, BY AUGUST THE COLOR WAS FADING. LAST YEAR I USED GEMINI RESTORE A DECK CLEANER AND BRIGHTENER THEN APPLIED TWP 100 CEDAR TONE. BY AUGUST IT WAS FADING AGAIN. IS THERE A BETTER WAY TO PREP THE SURFACE?
FRED GRZESIAK
You can try to just lightly clean the wood with warm water, some dish soap, and lightly scrub with a car wash brush.
Can a sealer be used after staining a deck or fence? Would that help the stain to last longer than a couple yrs? If so can you use any good sealer?
No you cannot add a sealer on top of a deck stain.
I built a knotty cedar deck 6+ months ago and am ready to prep for staining. I'm leaning towards TWP 1500 versus the TPW 100 since I'm a NY resident. I plan on prepping with Gemini Restore-A-Deck Kit. Is the TWP 1500 the best option for a cedar deck, southern exposure with full sun most of the day? The decking has a beautiful natural yellow/orange color after a rain storm. What is the best color choice to achieve the same look as when the wood is wet?
Rick, only the 1500 Series is allowed there. The 1515 Honeytone is the lightest tint and closest to a wet look.
I have a wooden deck about 15 years old and painted in a red color. I bought the house last year and want to refresh the deck as it is peeling and weathered. Want kind of prep is necessary and will TWP work?
No you cannot apply TWP over a paint. You will have to repairman unless you would like to sand off all of the paint or install new wood.
We live in South Central PA and applied Ready Seal (Nat. Cedar) 6 yrs ago to our red cedar deck. Looking to bring it back from it's neglected state this spring. Does the remaining Ready Seal (mostly on the upright railings) need stripped if we go with the TWP 1500 or can we wash, clean and brighten and apply it over the Ready Seal? Or maybe we'd be better off sticking with the Ready Seal and not waiting 6 years?! Thanks!
When switching brands is best to strip off remaining products so the new coating works at its best. I would switch to TWP.
My pressure treated pine screen porch was built in July 2015. It has weathered over a Maine winter and I plan on staining it in May. After 10 months including a winter – do you think that would count as "new smooth wood" meaning I should only hit it with 1 coat? Or should I go for 2 coats? I don't want a splotchy puddled stain mess and I would prefer not to over order stain! Would TWP1500 still be my best bet? The railings are in partial sun and behind the screen (labor intensive to re-stain) – do you think the stain would last 5 years on the vertical rails?
Thanks
I would prep well then apply 1 coat to all wood. You can always add another light coat to the horizontals in 1-2 years. The verticals will last 3-6 years depending on exposure.
I'm about to stain a very dry log cabin. 8 years ago it was stained with Sikkens . Pressure washing remove your most of the stain. My client wants the best stain used on his home, what do you recommend?
deck site: North East Georgia untreated wood approx. 12 yrs. old. deck is covered but we have two long sets of stairs and a landing that is exposed to full sun and elements. Used pure bleach and washed off. Looks great except for board warping and some bad cracking! Deck is sound but needs cosmetic help! After reading post I understand the bleach might not have been the best approach! I Don't know if I need to do a little sanding because my wood looks little fuzzed. And then use the restore and brightener then! And I'm not sure of the best stain. I thought the 1500 due to the condition since it stops rot and decay. Or if I need to use the Defy to help harden wood back up after my bleach job! But you have recommended the 100 series to most location around me. So confused! Please help for my poor deck's sake!!! Thanks for the advice!
Any of those stain brands would work. Normally you would use the 100 Series for your area. Both the 100 and 1500 help to prevent rot and decay. Your prep is fine for now. No need for more cleaning and brightening.
Monte, sorry it did not work for you. Just to note, TWP is a penetrating stain. If the wood is prepped properly and it is applied properly then it will soak 100% into the wood. This means it cannot peel or flake. Something had to be be done wrong if it flaked on your wood as that means is filmed \”on top\” of the wood as it dried and did not penetrate.
Sorry again that is did not work for you!
We live in Missouri. We have a new deck that faces east, and it is about 6 months old. It was built with the Yellawood pressure treated pine. According to the Yellawood official website, as long as the water doesn't bead up after the "sprinkle test", it's fine to seal and stain. Am I correct? Should I use TWP 100 series, TWP 1500 series or Defy stain? We don't have a dealer near our home, and we want to buy the correct products, otherwise it's very hard to return if we are not satisfied.
You are good to stain now but you will need to prep by using a deck cleaner and wood brightener. Try the TWP 100 Series.
Thank you for the information. We will try that.
I live in Dallas Tx, and have a 20 year old pressure treated yellow pine deck that hasn't been sealed in over 10 years. I had it pressure washed last week and would like to put a dark stain and sealer on it. Do I need to sand it also? And what product do you recommend. It does have some raised grain and feathering. Its a large deck also, 21×25, so I assume the best application will be with a roller. Any comments would be helpful.
No need to sand but if you want, try buffing with a floor buffer and white 3M sanding pad to remove the raised grain. Roller do not work well. Use an exterior stain pad. Try the TWP 103 Dark Oak or the Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown.
Dawn, can you post some pictures in the forum area please.
I am considering using the TWP 1500 product on outdoor furniture that is made of Australian Jarrah wood. For prep we are removing everything down to bare wood. Any comments on using this product for this use?
We have not used TWP on this wood type but have on other exotic woods. You have to be careful that you do not over apply and that you back wipe off any excess stain that does not absorb in 30-45 minutes.
I am getting ready to stain 6,720 sq ft of cedar fence in Texas. I have selected TWP 1500 or Ready Seal as my stain choice. i read the reviews on the color fading and the low coverage area per gallon, on the Ready Seal and that makes me want to go with the TWP. That being said, most of these reviews are dealing with deck (horizontal) staining, and i will be staining mostly vertical boards, with the exception of the stringers. The problem i have with TWP is it is not readily stocked in my area. A few stores have a few gallons here or there, but I am looking specifically at the 1516 Rustic and only one store stocks it in gallons, while a second store can get the 5-gallons in about a week at the price of $210 per 5 gallon. I have found some online sites that will ship the TWP at a reasonable rate, but I am concerned about starting a stain project and not having all the stain I need on hand , or readily available once the job starts. There is an endless supply of Ready Seal mahogany in my area, but based on your reviews I am leaning towards the TWP. Question – on rough cut cedar, new wood, do you think it will take 2 coats of TWP? and are your estimates of coverage pretty close on every project? You mention 150-250 sq ft – 1st coat, then 200-300 for second coat. thank for the assist.
Yes you will need two coats on the rough cut. The sq. footage is correct for the TWP 1500 Series.
I had a deck built a in Texas last July – the builder stained it with Cabot shortly thereafter. It's been a disaster. Peeling EVERYWHWRE, 80% or more loss of color. Just completely dissatisfied.
If I were to Gonwith TWP – do I need to have the person doing the staining strip the stain first – or just pressure wash it really well?
You will have to remove the cabot first.
I applied this to a new deck that had been aged a year to dry out. I used the Gemini restore-a-deck in preparation. Now two months later, I have Black Mold growing and it's quickly getting worse. I'm really not pleased with that outcome in such a short period of time.
Brian, mold can grow on any surface. Deck stains cannot stop the growth of mold on top of the coating. TWP does stop the growth \”in\” the stain and is the only stain on the market that is actually approved by the EPA for this. Sorry the mold is happening but it is most likely a product of your environment and not an issue with the TWP.
I'm new to this site but I've already found the information here to be quite valuable. I have a 15 year old cedar deck that I had previously stripped and restained with a horrible Wolman stain. It pealed after one winter and I've regretted it since. I have now stripped the deck and railing system down to bare wood and sanded it. I plan on using TWP1500 to restain. I have some rotted floor boards and I am replacing them before I stain. I think I need to use some wood stripper on them and then use the cleaner/brightener on the whole deck before I stain. My question is you've stated not to stain new decks for 4 to 12 months but I don't want to leave my deck sit over the winter before I stain it. Can I just stain the new boards along with the rest of the deck? Also, should I apply one or two coats of the TWP1500? Thank you.
If you stain the new boards now then you will need to apply another coat to them next Spring. Prep all with a cleaner and brightener. Only one coat on the new boards and two coats wet on wet for the older wood. Other option is to do one coat on all wood now than apply a light coat to all wood next year.
I think I prefer the option of one coat now and another next year. Will it provide as good of a finish if I do it that way? Can I apply the second coat first thing in the spring? Thank you
Yes that is the better option. You will be fine doing it in the Spring first thing.
I am trying to repair our 17 year old pressure treated deck and gazebo. It has been stained with behr solid stain water based redwood color. We are currently scraping and sanding off the peeling stain. Can we then stain with TWP1500? Your recommendations please.
You will have to remove all of the solid stain 100% if you want to use a semi-transparent like TWP. That can be a chore but if you get it done then yes the TWP will work.
Hello,
I leave in MA. Actually I bought TWP1500 a year ago, and I stripped the existing stain on my deck, and I applied two coats of TWP 1500. The color was redwood and I loved it.
However the last winter was horrible in terms of weather. During the winter time, I noticed that stain was lifted by ice built by frozen snows. So now, I can see light spots here and there. Have you ever heard about this kind of story?
What will happen if I reapply one coat on the existing stain after deck cleaner? Thanks
You most likely over applied if it lifted. Yes you can clean and prep then apply just one coat.
Hi I live in Ontario Canada. Plan to stain (for the first time) our three year old pressure treated wood deck. What are the steps I should take in preparing the deck before I use the TWP. Thanks
TWP is not allowed on Canada. Try the Defy Extreme or Armstrong Clark. Prep with a Restore A Deck Kit first.
Plan to stain deck next month (Sep 2015) for first time (deck built May 2014) with TWP 1500 honeytone or pecan. Live in Centerville OH (outside Dayton), and understand we need to use TWP 1500 vs. 100 for Ohio. Eventually, probably next year, I'll put lattice to cover deck opening between deck and ground. For now though I want to paint or stain the 6×6 posts. Deck is about 950 sf, so there are quite a few posts. We have dark brown/mocha composite trim on our pine PT deck, so I want to paint or stain the posts the same shade of dark brown/mocha. Believe it would give it a cleaner look. Question: Am I okay to paint the 6×6 PT posts? They'll eventually be covered by lattice, which will also be dark brown. I'm leaning toward painting them with either Behr Premium Plus Ultra Exterior paint or Behr Marquee Exterior paint. Had good luck with Behr exterior paint on our shed. BUT … is there a reason I should NOT paint the posts, and should stain them instead? And IF stain is recommended, is there a stain you'd recommend? Hoping to paint them in the next week or two, so thanks in advance for any responses/input to this issue. -Al
I would stain them and look at the TWP 1503 Dark Oak or the 1504 Black Walnut.
Thanks for the stain recommendations. Couple more related questions: *(1)* Should I also use cleaner/brightener on these lower posts? (Hadn't planned to on these lower posts, which will eventually be covered by lattice.) *(2)* Do I need to power wash these lower posts? (Again, hadn't planned to since they're going to be covered by lattice within a year or so. Was just planning to ensure they're washed/hosed-down clean before staining.) *(3)* I have a total of something like 25 posts, and was just planning on staining the lower posts closest to the outside of the deck, and not stain the lower posts underneath the deck towards the middle of the deck … they're pretty hard to get to. That okay?? Thanks again for inputs! -Al
Just power wash with water. There is really no need to stain the posts as they are already chemically treated for rot and decay. If you want to stain them for appearance then that is okay.
At a crossroad between TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark semi transparent stains for my cedar sided home. Purchased samples of each and applied to sample boards. Both apply well and look good. TWP 1500 seems to bead water better than AC when test sprayed with water but not sure that is a reason to choose one over the other. Any reason to pick one over the other at this point or just pick based on preferred color? Thanks!
Pick based on color.
Longevity of either brand is almost the same?
Yes when prepped well and applied properly.
I followed all of your steps for prepping my deck before I applied TWP 1500. When I applied, I left a wet edge as described on the container. I also applied the second coat "wet on wet" as described on the container. The weather was perfect – 72 degrees and no rain for 4 days. There a places on the deck where the stain is still tacky. The reading I've done says I probably applied too much stain. Help! What should I do? I'm worried that the stain is going to peel .
It will most likely not peel. Try to wipe off the excess stain with mineral spirits and some rags/towels. Make sure that you wet all rags with water when done and lay flat to dry.
I am building a new Boat dock out of pressure treated wood. It is very hot here in Texas, 103 or so. Builder has said to stain the deck immediately because this new pressure treated wood dries out very quickly and will warp and split. The walkway out to be boat house and part of the deck will be in direct sun all day. Should I stain it immediately as he suggests? Also, what product would you recommend?
No you should not stain right away. TWP wants 4-12 months. Always follow advice of the stain brand you are using. See this as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am going to be staining a new decorative cedar fence, built about 6 weeks ago, using TWP 1501. It is rough sawn and the wood is fairly clean, only a bit of sand that has splashed onto it with rainwater. Does the fence need to be prepped in any special way prior to staining? I have noticed those who are staining decks are using a deck cleaner and wood brightener prior to staining. Is this necessary/recommended with a cedar fence, and if so, what product(s) do you recommend? Thanks for all the helpful information!
New rough sawn wood does not need to be chemically prepped. Just make sure it is clean and dry.
I have a new pressure treated pine deck that is 20 feet high off the ground and has a stairway down to the ground. The underside is visible so I need to treat all sides. What's the best way to apply stain/sealer in this instance?
You will need ladders or maybe even a lift to apply to the undersides. It is not fun and can be messy. Use stains pads and or brushes.
I am purchasing KDAT pressure treated lumber. Is it advisable to seal the entire board [top & bottom]? If so can I use the TWP 1500 right away to seal the underside before installation?
We never bother nor do we see any advantage to staining all sides of the wood prior to install. TWP does not suggest this. We would wait 1-2 months after instal, prep to clean off any mill glaze, and apply one coat of the TWP this year.
After reading these reviews and comments I went with TWP 1500 and am very disappointed.
My PT deck is partially in the sun and partially covered. It has been only 6 weeks since applying per the manufacture's directions and the portion of the deck in the sun is already fading and has lost probably 50% of it color.
The deck was cleaned with a hydrogenated bleach (similar to the Defy product recommended elsewhere on the website) , sanded and cleaned again with a hydrogenated bleach followed by a brightner. The cleaning took place twice because I found out per this website the sanding should occur than the cleaning so I got into step with the recommendation herein.
That is not normal and could be related to your sanding. Too much sanding and the stain will not absorb deeply and my fade faster. Feel free to post a picture in our forum area if you would like further help.
We purchased a home 1 year ago in the mountains of Northern Colorado. The previous stain has worn out in high traffic areas and from pet "stains". We were considering using a "deck-over" product, but after doing research it seems none of them really do what they promise. There are some small cracks in the deck and scrapes from shoveling snow. What would you recommend we use?
Look at the Deck Resurface product that is made by the same manufacturer of the TWP stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gulf-synthetics-deck…
We have a Massaranduba deck installed 11 years ago. The deck (porch) is covered, but faces south and we get a lot of sun on the outer edge of the porch. We live near Charleston, SC, so we also have a lot of humidity. Initially we applied Penofin – Brazilian Rosewood oil. The nice appearance didn’t last long. About 3 or 4 years later we sanded the porch and applied Cabot Australian Timber oil – Mahogany Flame. That was 8 years ago. Our deck looks pretty bad. In fact, it looked bad after 1 year of the Cabot stain.
What stain product do you suggest? Will it be better than the two products we have already tried so far?
And what cleaning product do you suggest?
Would you clean after you sand?
What grade sand paper would you use?
Thank you for any help.
Ann, your wood type will require annual reapplication. This is due to the wood\’s density and no stain will give \”years\” on Massaranduba. No need to sand. Prep with the Restore A Deck products and pressure washing.
Where can buy TWP 1500?
Is there a color chart? I guess I would get Redwood or California Redwood.
Where do I get Restore A Deck?
Thanks for your help.
Ann, contact manufacturers for help with this.
I've got a hot tub room with plywood for a backer. I'm going to put cedar on that. Should I stain the plywood before putting the Cedar on it? If so what stain should I use. I live in Minnesota.
Thanks in advance.
No need to stain the plywood. Just the exposed wood.
Which stain would you recommend for staining the Cedar in the hot tub room.
The TWP 1500 Series. Maybe a light tint like the 1515 Honeytone.
I have a brand new (one-month old) cedar deck. I saw TWP 100 requires 4-12 months to weather the wood. How about TWP 1500? Does it also require 4+ months before staining? Someone told me cedar is ready to stain right after the installation is done…
You will have to wait with the 1500 Series. Prep as well to.
Thanks for your reply. How about Armstrong Clark stain? Is it good to apply it now or still wait a little longer? Thanks!
About 3 months wait with the AC.
I have a newly constructed cedar fence and have questions regarding the finish. Is it necessary to allow the wood the dry for several weeks prior to staining? What strain would you recommend? I would like to maintain the natural and rich wood cedar color. Thanks
If the wood is smooth then yeas you need to weather for many months then prep accordingly. Most fences though are rough sawn and can take a stain right away as long as the wood is dry. No prep either.
I have an cedar fence in my backyard, I will only use TWP stain on it. I used a pump-sprayer to apply. I used 15gal. for 300 ft. of fence. I used the natural cedar-tone color. The cedar soaks up the stain with little or no back-rolling needed. It has held up Fantastic. It still looks really good after 10 years of extreme weather conditions in Nebraska. This is by far the best stain on the market.
Looking to stain a pressure treated deck that has had olympic semi transparent stain put on twice before. Can I just apply this new stain on top or do I have to strip it down first? I assume I'm going to clean and lightly sand the deck. Thought I would use a deck repair paint but they all have terrible reviews.
You have to strip it first and brighten after.
I am installing a covered tongue and groove porch floor in illinois. It is recommended that this flooring be sealed on all sides before installation. The wood is pressure treated pine that was kiln dries after treatment, so it is dry. Can I apply TWP 1500 prior to installation and if so what if any prep work has to be done?
According to TWP you cannot prestain. Best to wait, prep and then stain.
I have a new cedar fence and live in Central New Jersey. It was installed about 8 months ago. I was thinking of going with the TWP 1504 (Black Walnut). I was wondering how much stain I would need to do both sides. I have about 55 sections of fence to do. Also, what would you recommend besides the TWP? Thank you
You need a total sq. footage for both sides for a quantity amount. TWP would work well for this.
It's 6 x 8, so it's 96 square feet per section.
96 x 55 = 5,280 square feet
That is a lot of wood to stain. Spray on first coat lightly and then back brush a second coat for an even appearance. You will need 40-50 gallons most likely but can vary based on application and porosity of the wood.
I have a 410 sqft deck that is about 10+ years old. The wood is Brazilian Hardwood, either Ipe or Cumaru and in great condition. However we did use Penofin Hardwood Stain (Brazilian Rosewood Oil) twice in the last 9 years and you are correct, it turned black at many spots. We now like to get a professional painter in who recommended the following three options (based on photos of the deck): 1) Ready Seal 2) Armstrong 3) TWP.
Any thought from you expertise which one would be most suited for Brazilian Hardwood?
Armstrong Clark in Amber or Mahogany color for this wood type.
Thank you for your reply. On your review site you have 2 products listed:
1). https://www.deckstainhelp.com/armstrong-clark-wood…
2) https://www.deckstainhelp.com/armstrong-clark-stai…
Which product are you referring to in your response above and also which of the 3 types do you suggest for the Brazilian Hardwood: Trans parents, Semi-Transparent, and Semi-Solid Colors?
Thank you
Is the same product. AC makes 2 colors for hardwoods: Amber and Mahogany. Use either.
Thank you for the additional information. I also have hardwood wood furniture on my deck. It is Jansen -Jarrah, made out of Australian Jarrah wood. I would like to take care of the furniture and deck at the same time. Would you also recommend Armstronk Clark for this type of furniture? The manufacture recommends Cabot Stain -Australian Timber Oil, but I have read bad references about their latest products. Please advice.
That would work as well.
My 600sq' deck had sun frog transparent finish sealer on it and was let go for many years. The surface was slippery and I just was given a pressure washer. I used fairly high pressure and the deck looks great now but needs a new coating. Unfortunately, from some comments I read, it looks like I shouldn't have pressure washed it so high with water alone, but it's too late now. Where do you recommend I go from here.
The TWP 1500 Series would be a good option for this. Make sure that the wood is cleaned well.
We have been trying to make up our mind between Penofin or TWP stain for our deck, and we got our answer by accident.
We picked up samples of both and we put 2 stain samples of Penofin on 1 board on our deck and 2 stain sample of the TWP on the other board. I put the same amount stains on both boards. It rained during the night and when we check the samples in the morning there was quite a bit of beading on the board with the TWP stain. On the board with the Penofin stain there was no beading at all. This really surprised us. I thought this might help other people who are trying to make up their mind.
I am from Northern Colorado and we are looking to restain our back deck. We had it done 2 years ago and didn't even last 6 months by a certain company who I think did not do a great job. So I want to order a sample to see who it looks like on but not sure if we need the TWP 100 or TWP 1500 what do you suggest. The deck faces west and gets non stop sun/rain/snow and have 3 year old twin boys who are constantly playing on the deck? Also there is nothing left of the previous stain do we need to strip & sand again or is washing restore/brightener enough? Thanks in advance
Use the 100 Series. Strip and brighten for prep. The old stain needs to come off before applying the TWP.
I have a cedar deck in south Texas which was constructed in 2007. I put down several applications of "big box store" stains over the last 8 years. I'm now sanding to bare wood the horizontal surfaces which have peeled although the wood is in good shape and the vertical surfaces are fine. What stain would you recommend and any other preparation recommended prior to staining? Thanks.
Use the 1500 Series and prep with a deck cleaner and pressure washing after the sanding.
Hello, thanks for all the great info! We own a lake house in Michigan with extensive decking. Previous owner built the deck just last year and stained with Flood CWF-UV oil based staid in cedar tone. Sides and rails look good but floor needs restaining. I pressure washed with water and it's pretty clean just has areas of wear. Would the TWP 1500 be good to restain? Do I need to remove all the old stain or can I just touch up? What color would be comparable? Thank you!
You should remove all of the Flood first as it will allow the TWP to soak into the wood grain. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper. Apply this to the wood with a pump sprayer and power wash again. It is not the hard and the TWP will look better and perform longer. Make sure to neutralize the stripper with the wood brightener when done. The 1500 would work well for you but also look at the 100 Series as it is allowed in Michigan. Where is the lake?
Thanks for the info! Gull Lake in southwest lower Michigan. Do you know what color that would be comparable to the cedar tone of the Flood for the TWP? The sides of the deck are stained and still look fine, so trying to find something very similar so I don't have to restain everything. They are separated by a white border so it doesn't have to be an exact match, just close. Also, how long do I need to let the wood dry prior to application?
Probably the Cedartone or the Honeytone would be closest. Let dry for 48 hours after prep before applying. Used to have family reunions on Gun Lake which I believe is nearby.
Thanks! We're about 45 minutes south of Gun Lake- great area! If we stick with the same Flood stain, can we just go over the existing without stripping? Just thinking we may do this just for this summer and then redo the entire deck next year, as we are having all our siding replaced next month.
Probably but it has to be the same Flood stain. They have changed their formulas lately so you may have a hard time getting the exact same.
Enjoyed your site, very informative. Looking to clean and reseat my deck this year. I live in central AL and was considering using the Restore a deck cleaner and brighter followed by TWP 1500 stain (haven't decided on color). Considering where I live I am making the right choice?
Yes that would work well for you. Easy to maintain every couple of years as well down the road.
Hello, We have a cedar deck that was put down in 2002. We used one of your "worst" deck stains two years ago and the deck peeled. We have sanded the horizontal deck boards. We live on Long Island, harsh winters. After sanding do we need deck cleaning and brightening? Also, after sanding does the deck have to "weather" for awhile? We have had lots of problems with deck staining. This time we want to do it right.
You should clean and brighten for the prep after sanding. If you sanded smooth then a weathering for a month would help. Only apply one light coat of stain or as much stain that can absorb fully into the wood.
Best stain for new deck that's seasoned approximately 6 months. I'm in upstate S.C.
TWP will work well for this.
Hi, I really appreciate the help you provide on this site! I followed your information to reseal my deck. I live in Southwest Ohio, in the Cincinnati area. I used Restore a Deck stripper and brightener to clean and prep the wood on my deck, followed by 1500 TWP natural this past Fall. So far, it looks good. I was wondering what I should do now? It still looks good. There are a couple of spots that I might retouch, but over all, it looks good and repels water. It made it through a tough winter and want to properly take care of it. I appreciate your suggestions. Thanks!
Either leave alone and redo the same way next Spring or lightly clean to remove dirt and apply one light coat to all the horizontals.
I had Flood CWF- UV clear stain applied to deck 4 years ago. Is it a good stain to reapply?
thank you in advance for answer.
It is okay but the TWP is better.
I live in N.E. Alabama and built a deck last year ( Sep.). I am trying to decide which application of stain to use, any advice?
Use the TWP 100 Series for AL. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
I have a 20 year old pressure treated deck that has had Sikkens SRD on it. It was peeling so we stripped, neutralized and sanded followed by a light power wash. It's ready for a finish but we are having trouble deciding what to use. If we go with TWP 1500 how will we know if we need 2 coats.
I would do just one coat now after you sanded. You can always apply a light coat in 12 months.
And would you recommend the TWP 1500 for our Vermont deck that is in good condition considering that we don't want to have to go through such an exhaustive process next time? Thanks so much
Yes that would be a good choice.
im trying to get reviews on the Penofin hardwood stain for my pressure treated decking
You would not want a hardwood stain for a PTP deck. The review for the Penofin is on the site. Do a search and you will find it.
Staining/Sealing a new cedar fence in Texas. Fence has weathered unstained/unsealed for the past 6 months and is starting to grey. Wondering what would be the best approach for this fence. I feel like it needs to be cleaned and cleaner/brightener would be no problem, but what stain to use is the question. I can't decide which is better, the TWP 100 or 1500 and whether to use one coat or two. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Two coats wet on wet of the 1500 would give you the best results for the vertical fence. Yes on a cleaner and brightener for the prep.
I just moved to Michigan from Texas, I have been using Wood Defender Brand products while there. Love them and they will not fade out nearly as fast as ready-seal.
Hello, my deck is in dire need of staining. I was stained with what looks like a redwood color stain many years ago, before I bought the house. I have replaced some of the pressure treated deck boards and a few railings so they are still bare in color. I've been reading about the numerous stains on the market of which their is plenty and I am thinking TWP 1500 might be a good stain. I live in illinois, will I have any problem putting this stain on the current deck. It is very faded in all but a few places.
Any advice/recommendations is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
You can only use TWP (or any stain brand) if you remove all of the old stain first. You cannot apply anything on top and have it work or look good. As far as removal, there are many different ways and hard to suggest the correct procedure without knowing more on the stain brand or type of stain that it is.
We used 1500 TWP natural two years ago after using restore a deck stripper to remove old stain and brightener. this was based on your recommendations and we were very pleased. We need to put another coat of twp down. the TWP natural was a little more red than we wanted. We would like to use a TWP that has less red in it. Can we make a change like this without removing all the old stain? We are thinking pecan would be better.
If you prep well with a cleaner and brightener then go with a darker color then you are okay. You would have to strip if you want to go lighter in color.
Hello, great site! I used the TWP 1500 Cedartone 2 years ago on my pool deck. Deck is made of severe treated pine. Today, after about 2 years, the color is pretty faded. I have a plastic bin to hold the pool tools, and the stain under it looks great. The stain on the railings also looks good. My guess is the sun did a number on it, but the stain should have held up a little longer than that. What is your opinion of me giving the deck floor a good pressure washing, and applying a coat of stain over what has been there for 2 years? Thanks in advance!
It is normal to have to reapply to the floor every 2-3 years so no it should not have lasted longer. Best to clean to remove dirt and grime and apply your maintenance coat to just the floor/horizontal areas. The railings will last another 2 years before they need to be redone.
Cool, thanks for the info! Any particular solution for cleaning? Or is a water only pressure wash sufficient?
Never wash with just water. Too much pressure can damage wood. Use a deck cleaner and lightly pressure \”rinse\” for the prep. Easier and better for the wood.
love your site!
We have a 30 year old deck in NY. The railings/spindles seem to have been painted at some point (peeling severely) but the actual deck has never been treated (full of splinters). Is TWP 1500 the appropriate product? Do I need to just sand and pressure wash or will I also have to use some sort of cleaner and brightener as well?
Yes on cleaner and brightener for prep. Use the TWP 1500 for the floors for NY. Thanks!
I used bm aborcoat translicent on a new pt deck last year. Mold is growing under the arbor coat. Bleach did not touch it . I am in central virginia. What should i use to get off? What stain should i go with this time. I want a lighter color.
Arbor coat is a filming stain that does not allow the wood to breathe, hence maybe why the mold is trapped under. Not easy to remove at all. We usually strip as much as possible then sand. In many cases we just sand the entire deck to get it off.
Hello,
Great Forum, the best on the web for the topic.
I have a deck that was painted 5 years ago with Scherwin Williams Solid Deckscapes stain. It looks beat down.
I want to use the TWP1500 to go over it.
Can I just pressure wash it and paint over it? or what do i need to do prior to putting on TWP1500? its solid
how to do this right so it looks the best? i dont want to sand it …do I have to?
You cannot put TWP on a solid stain. You would have to remove the solid stain 100% and that would require heavy stripping and power sanding the entire deck. No semi-transparent stain can go on top of a solid stain.
ok…..so what stain would you recommend to go over the solid….so i dont have to take it off? which brand and type?
You can only apply a solid stain over a solid stain. Try Flood Solid color stains.
I checked yesterday for flood stains…none available in my area…and cabot also not available…whats the next best one??
Look for Sikkens solid stains.
believe it or not Sikkens not available either……any others? how about superdeck ?or other?
What is available?
We finished a mini-deck stairs to bottom yard. New redwood. This product was superior to the Behr we put on the legs. (15 years ago I loved Behr, but it is not the same formula now.) Used 1530 natural. Project sat 3 months before staining. So we re-sanded all areas, except legs. Used 4 inch brushes, husband and me, took 5 hours. 8 x 10 area with rails and stairs. You must wipe as you go. Do not leave drips or puddles. Love the out come. Oh, and take care of the oiling rags properly. They started to combust in the yard overnight.
I have a large pressure treated pine fence and live in Charleston SC. There is some issue with wetness from the woods behind the house. The fence was previously treated with a solid stain and I have pressure washed and sanded it and removed all of the old stain. Do I also need to use a deck cleaner and brightener or could I get away with the pressure washing and sanding?
Would TWP 100 or 1500 or Clark semi-solid work best for this application? How many coats do you recommend?
If all of the solid stain has been removed then you should be good to go with the staining since it is a fence. If it was a deck you would want to clean and brighten. Take inconsideration if you did not get all of the solid stain off, it will show through the new semi-transparent stain. Use the TWP 100 Series. Prevents mold better in your wet climate.
Have a 6 year old deck. Never treated. Power washed twice. Last wash yesterday. It has lattice and railings. Which is best stain. Live in southern Illinois with usually humid summers. we usually have fairly mild winters, although last two have been more severe
Thank you..
TWP 1500 Series would be a good choice for this in IL.
We have a brand new PT pine deck, 3/4 of which is covered by an awning. We live in South Florida and get a lot of rain and wind so even the covered areas get wet often. We also have constant high humidity, which promotes mold growth. I've been reading your reviews and am considering the TWP 100, would you recommend something else instead?
TWP 100 would be better for new wood but you will need to wait at least 4 months. Please read this about new wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Just sanded down log cabin made of poplar; washed with tsp, bleach and water, power washed then put 2 coats of penetrete. Now need a stain. We are in NY. What would you recommend? I think we need a semi translucent. Would love a 1 coat brand. Thanks!
For the stain, Look at Armstrong Clark or the TWP 1500 Series. Hard to say if one coat will b enough as it varies on the wood absorption.
Thank you so much!
Great site, good information and highly addictive. I live in Buffalo, NY and just had a deck installed with treated pine about 1 month ago. My contractor is insisting that I "put something on the wood" before the weather changes. Oddly enough, when I asked what he used on his own deck, he shared that the product he last used was terrible and wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Of course, it was one of the lower ranked stains in your reviews. I see that the AC products are recommended for new wood, but there seemed to be a higher level of concern from other posters regarding drying and potential staining of clothes with that product. I have built-in benches so i'm willing to err on the side of caution and go with a different product. From what I've read, it seems like TWP 100 is not allowed in NY, so TWP 1500 is the way to go. Although winter is coming and I have an urge to stain this new deck (with its new wood smell), from what I've learned on this site, should I just do nothing and wait until next spring to prep/stain? Thanks.
You should not stain now with TWP. The manufacturer wants you to wait 4-12 months after install and prep correctly first. If you stain now then look at the Timber Oil Brand: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/timberoil-brand-stai…
Did you read this articles about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
AC is a fully drying stain and there is no issues with rubbing off on clothes when it is cured/dry.
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I read the article. I was planning on waiting until May or June of 2015, prep use a RAD kit, then use the TWP 1500. During this first winter, when it's feasible, should I remove snow from the deck or does it not matter?
Snow will not harm anything.
We have a pressure treated deck and dock in SE Florida. Deck is over 10 years old, but has newer planking. Several local "deck experts" have warned against oil based products due to mold and mildew growith in an environment with high humidity. I was considering using the TWP 100 with a second choice of the 1500. Would you recommend these products in our setting?
Would Oil based really be more susceptible to Mold and Mildew than an acrylic product?
Oil based stains are more prone to mold growth but water based stains will fail faster from wear and tear. Best is an oil based stain that is not prone to mold growth. In your scenario the 100 Series would be your best option. EPS registered wood preservative that contains algae and mold prevention.
I just recently stained my deck with TWP 1500 redwood color. There are several new planks that were added a couple years ago to fill in where a hot tub once was. These boards appeared lighter after the stain dried. I added another coat to these intermingled planks to hopefully darker them so they would match the older deck. This second coat dried “shiny” or with a sheen to them, I’m sure because the initial coat was now preventing complete penetration. How can I get the “flat” appearance of the rest of the deck. Should I try scuff the surface with fine grit sandpaper like 220, 400 or 600 grit? Will wiping down with paint thinner do anything? Please advise. Thank you.
New wood will always be lighter in color. Adding more stain does not darken and can can result in shiny spots. Try wiping the shiny spots with lacquer thinner to see if that helps. Sanding or scuffing will most likely not work.
Hi, I recently purchased a 20 year old Cedar Sided home that has had no maintenance done to it. The wood is dark and seems very dry on the surface. I plan to clean and stain it to bring back the natural look of the wood. What products would you recommend for Maryland since it's a low voc state? My contractor used to use TWP 100 but we can't get that anymore in MD so he recommends Ready Seal because he has heard that TWP 1500 is not as good as 100. Your articles seem to steer away from Ready Seal.
We would use the TWP 1500 over the Ready Seal all day long.
We want to use this for railings on our deck which was previously treated with a sealant that provided no protection – after one year the whole railing was covered in black mildew/mold. To apply this product, do we need to sand the railings first?
No you need to either strip or clean the wood then brighten after. If you still have remnants of the old coating then use a deck stain stripper, if not then use a deck cleaner. Best to pressure wash while using these products. Brighten when done.
I used TWP 1500 on a redwood fence ranging from 2-7 years old, I used on part of the fence TWP California Redwood and on another Preserva-wood Pacific Redwood both excellent products. The TWP I had to order online as no one stocked it. locally. It clogged the pump sprayer I used so I could not use that but it brushed on very quickly and easily. The Calif Redwood is a rich goldenesque color that does allow the characteristics of the wood to show through- if its a darker piece it will be darker, you will see grain and knots- almost like a pine cabin. – if you want more red Id probably use the Redwood color as this was a touch yellow for my taste but very natural looking. I did get much more coverage from the TWP than the Preserva-wood up to twice as much. However the Preservawood Pacific Redwood is also a great product. It went on with a semi flat very natural slightly reddish color that almost looks transparent but it does have a high degree of pigment and still looks natural. Its not too dark or light has significant pigment but a natural look and a very desirable natural slightly reddish color. I also tried Superdeck but that had a more shiny surface look that was not as natural. The Superdeck may be ok for much older wood but not on newer wood with natural grain still visible. I really like the color of the Preservawood. I was able to use a pump sprayer with the Preservawood. I also tried a Wagner inexpensive stain sprayer and that was not good. You would get a slightly deeper stain but would need a complete paint and stain mask setup because you get spray everywhere from in your lungs to your neighbors complaining. Id rate both the TWP and Preservawood as excellent. I also tried cleaning the fence in advance with an electric pressure washer. An electric is so slow on a dirty fence that it would take forever to really get all the dirt off. I went out and bought a gas pressure washer for my next time. It would be more convenient if TWP had better availability locally as you hate to be in the middle of a fence and run out and have to wait 3 days for more product.
I ordered a 5 gallon can of TWP 1501 and used about 1/2 of it to stain my cedar deck. I would like to use the rest of the stain to stain another deck next summer. Will the opened resealed can of TWP 1501 keep and be good enough to use in 9 months?
And what is the best way to “reseal” that opened 5 gal can…do all the tabs need to be bent back down? Should a plastic bag be wrapped around it … or should plastic be put under the lid?
Thanks for your advice.
Hard to say on this if it will be good or not if opened. Best to close 100% so there is no evaporation of solvents. Transfer the left overs into single gallon containers that you can buy at HD or lowes.
I have a 20 year old redwood deck on douglas fir joists in the San Francisco bay area, California. It has been treated with Superdeck every 3 years. It gets full sun.
There is mold on the underside and some redwood plank ends have gotten soft on the ends where they are screwed to the fir joists.
I plan to pressure wash and stain top and bottom. What is the best product for this application?
Use a stain stripper when pressure washing and brighten when done. Stain with Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color when in full sun.