Update 2019 for TWP 1500 Series Review
Here at DeckStainHelp.com we take pride in the fact that we have become the Internet’s go-to site for all things exterior wood and deck restoration related. Hearing from our customers who have used TWP 1500 stain in the past, their decks have held up to the test of time and weather after this harsh winter. It is also one of our top go-to stains for our restoration business. As always, we appreciate your input, so feel free to leave a comment below and pictures of your completed projects if you have them.
TWP 1500 Review
Important Note: This is our 2nd Review of TWP 1500 Series. Our first review of the TWP 1500 Stain was started in 2010 and completed in 2012.
See Here for First Review: TWP 1500 Series Review
*Note: TWP 1500 and the TWP 100 are the only deck stains registered by the EPA as a wood preservative. The 1500 is compliant in all US states while the 100 Series is not.
TWP Deck Stains – 1500 Series Review
TWP 1500 Stain Deck Stain Scores (1-10)
Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8.5
For the pine deck, we used the TWP 1530 Natural. This is not a “clear” but rather a traditional cedar color in our opinion. The manufacturer stated they made this color in the 1500 Series to match the color of the TWP 101 Cedartone. This allows for an easy switch from the 100 Series for consumers who are in a low VOC state.
The wood grain was highlighted naturally with the 1530 Natural semi-transparent tint. The 1500 does not mask or film on top of the wood grain.
Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 8.5
Excellent at preventing UV graying at the two-year mark. For the vertical railings, the TWP 1500 lost very little of the color. For the horizontals, we saw close to 80% color retention.
Same results as last time and one of the better products for preventing color fading
Wear/Tear and Peeling: 8
The TWP 1500 penetrates deep into the wood reducing the chance of wearing. We find that the 1500 Scored well here for a low VOC oil based stain.
Note that when staining brand new wood with TWP, we have found that it is best to let the wood season in the elements for at least 3+ months. Once it is weathered, we prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener to enhance the stain penetration. Only 1 coat of the TWP 1500 for new smooth wood.
Cost Per Square Foot: 8
TWP 1500 Series cost us $38 per gallon. Coverage for the TWP 1500 on the pine deck was close to 150 square feet per gallon for the first coat and 250 for the second coat. We used 5 gallons for the 450 sq. feet.
Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 9
No mold in the sunny areas of the deck floor. There was some mold growing on top of the TWP around the railings. This was close to a pine tree though and may have been the cause.
This result is normal with TWP products as they contain an EPA registered fungicide and a mixture of natural and synthetic oils.
Ease of Application: 8
TWP 1500 series applies fairly well. It is slightly thicker than the 100 Series so you do need to be careful of not over applying. Make sure that all puddles that have not absorbed in 30 minutes are wiped down. Best to apply with a stain pad. Attach this to a pole and “work” the stain into the wood. You can spray as well but you will need to back wipe for an even appearance. The 1500 also takes a little longer to. Closer to 6+ hours. We have noticed that rain will not affect the 1500 Series as long as the stain has an hour or two to absorb.
Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 10
The 1500 Stain did not “darken” in color at the two-year review. This is excellent for an oil-based stain as many of the other brands have the darkening problem.
The Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
TWP 1500 Series can be reapplied with a minor cleaning first with a good quality deck cleaner. We have found that the TWP can be easily removed if needed with a deck stain stripper as well.
Overall Score TWP 1500 Stain at 2 Year Period: 8.44
TWP 1500 Series is one of the better wood and decking stains and is one of our top choices. As contractors, we really like stains that penetrate deep into the wood and can be reapplied without sanding. TWP 1500 fits this and more by adding excellent UV and mold protection. Maintaining with TWP every 2-3 years is easy.
Product Information:
TWP Help? Search Google: TWP Stain Help
More Info: TWP 1500
TWP Stain Facebook Page: TWP Deck and Wood Stains
Cost: $37.99 per Gallon, $184.99 per 5 Gallon Pail
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent – Oil-Based
Available Colors: 1500 Clear, 1501 Cedartone, 1502 Redwood, 1503 Dark Oak, 1504 Black Walnut, 1511 California Redwood, 1515 Honeytone, 1516 Rustic, 1520 Pecan, 1530 Natural
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 1-2 Coats. “Wet on Wet”. Only 1 coat on new smooth wood.
Coverage Per Gallon: 150-250 sq. ft for the first coat. 200-300 for a second coat if applied.
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 4-12 Hours
Cleanup: Mineral Spirits
VOC Compliant: 350 Compliant in all States (Registered as Wood Preservative by EPA)
More Info: Product Data
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pine Treated Decking
Deck Square Footage: 450 Square feet
UV Exposure: 50% Full Sun, 50% Shade. South Exposure.
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Natural 1530
*All products tested and results are from our experience as wood restoration contractors. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take into consideration that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
Posted this on the TWP 100 site, THEN found out can’t use it in NY State, in my area – Buffalo NY. – so I’m reposting here since it looks like TWP 1500 is the one we have to use. Hi – Have a pressure treated pine deck that’s just over a year old. Not been treated in any way and need to do it now before the snow flies. Live in Buffalo NY, so cold/snow. Looks like in reading about a number of stains by everyone – Behr, Ben Moore, Cabot, etc., TWP 1500 is the one that seems to be the best. We don’t want a solid stain, but would like to see grain, so a clear or semi-transparent. Would like something that will last the longest and give the best performance. Of course, we want the best protection against everything – peeling, cracking, color change, dirt, mold/mildew, etc. First Q: do we have to use the Gemini Restore kit first as mentioned in a couple posts? The wood has been weathered over a year, power washed last week and some boards sanded with 80 grit. Do we need to sand the rest of the boards? Is sanding really needed? 2nd Q: Since reading about some problems with mold/mildew, why can’t a mildewcide be added to this product to prevent that? Also, WHY do you not want to apply any of this product in the sun? Our yard gets direct sun and shade as the sun rotates around the yard. The whole deck is never all in shade at one time. Some part of it is always in sun until sunset, so we can’t avoid applying in sun. Lastly, someone asked how to tell which to use, oil or water based product. Your answer was: preference, whichever you want. My Q is: which one, oil or water, would be the easiest to apply, clean up after and reapply when needed? Do either have to be sanded when reapplication is needed (a big job)? Can either one just be power washed/cleaned without having to sand? We’re looking to use a semi-transparent as we want to see the grain of the wood. However, we also have posts and pergola tops, which would make having to sand when reapplication is needed a bear of a job, so we’d like the easiest way to do it all. Understanding the deck would get the most wear and need to be done sooner, but we would think at some point the posts and pergola tops would need to be done again. Should we use the oil or water based? BTW, in the picture, we don’t have the pergola tops up yet. They’re just “penciled in” to show people what it’ll look like. We’d like to get this done in the next week or so since the weather is supposed to be really nice. Not often the weather cooperates and we have a good 4-5 days of dry weather. Thanks very much for answering all… Read more »
– Yes, you have to prep with the Gemini Kit. No need to sand.
– No need. TWP already contains an EPA registered mildewcide.
– Sun issues: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/applying-a-deck-stain-in-full-sun/
– Oil-based is easier to reapply for most scenarios.
– TWP is not tracked into the house once fully cured in a few days or a week.
I live in Ohio and have a 22 yr old deck that has pressure treated pine boards with approximately 12 boards that were replaced 2 years ago. The new boards have never been stained. I hired a contractor to build a small addition onto my existing deck and they were supposed to begin working on it in 2 weeks. Contractor called today and stated that it would be mid to late October before they could begin work. I just completed pressure washing my deck last week to remove some of the old stain, algae, and graying on the newer boards. Much of the old stain remains especially in areas of shade and on the railings. Since I haven’t stripped the old stain off the deck yet, would it hurt to leave the newer deck boards exposed another year and just strip and stain the entire deck next spring including the new addition? I plan to use TWP 1503 dark oak.
Best to finish all in the Spring. You will be fine.
Do you recommend a specific product for cedar? Covered porch cold Maine climate? Thanks, Sue
The TWP 1500 works very well for cedar wood.
What is the best stain for a 9 month old pressure treated pine deck, full sun, Memphis TN area. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Bruce, use the TWP 100 or the TWP 1500 Series. Clen and brighten for the prep and just one coat for the first time staining new wood.
Can I darker the TWP 100 rustic stain with a coating of the dark oak?
You can mix them together and then apply.
where to purchase. Bellevue WA or Redmond Wa
Contact manufacturer for help.
I cleaned my deck with Thompson’s Heavy Duty Deck Cleaner. I would like to brighten, but the only one I have found is Thompson’s Deck Cleaner & Brightener. Is this a two-in-one product? Can I get away with using only a brightener (and not a cleaner+brightener)? If so, what is a good brightener-only product?
A true wood brightener is not a combo product. Use Restore A Deck Brightener.
I have a deck that the previous owner probably hasn’t treated in 9 years. I purchased the RAD Step 1 and 2. Can I simply just apply the TWP after pressure washing and using RAD Step 1 and 2? Thanks!
Yes but wait for the wood to dry for 48 hours.
Once stain is applied (TWP100), how long do I need to have a dry period? Is it OK to have rain fall on the stained deck within 24 hours of application?
It should be able to to take a rain in 8-24 hours as long as it soaks into the wood grain.
I have a new 5' cedars dog ear fence. Total length 90'. With both sides that is 900sq ft.
Since CO allow both 100 and 1500 which of the two would be best for a first coat?
I plan on using a pump garden sprayer to apply the TWP.
Use the 100 as it will soak into the new wood better.
"TWP 1500 Series cost us $38 per gallon. Coverage for the TWP 1500 on the pine deck was close to 1500 square feet per gallon for the first coat and 250 for the second coat. We used 5 gallons for the 450 sq. feet."
I am confused. You stated 1500 sq ft (150 maybe) on the first coat and 250 on the second. That seems backwards, especially since you needed 5 gallons for a 400 sq ft deck.
I have a 360 sq foot redwood deck plus railings to be stripped and re-stained. Would I need 4 or 5 gallons of stain?
The 1500 sq. feet was a typo. First coat applies at 150 and second coat applied at about 250 sq. feet. The second coat always spreads farther. You will need about 3-4 gallons for 360 sq. feet and the 2 coats.
I live in Raleigh North Carolina and have a KDAT pressure treated deck that was built in January of 2015. In June of 2015 the deck was power washed and stained with TWP 100 and here it is after only 16 months and the deck looks terrible (the boards have dark streaks, water doesn’t bead, boards are grayed out in places, etc.). In correcting this issue I have used Thompson’s Oxy Foaming cleaner along with Cabot’s Ready to Use Wood Brightener followed by power washing to clean up the mess but the boards still exhibit dark areas and streaking. The deck is partial sun and partial shade and it seems to be more troublesome in the sunny area. My gut feeling tells me to use a stripper to remove what is left and go back with an oil based stain instead of the TWP 100. What are your suggestions?
Hi Glynn,
It seems you did not follow the directions for new wood and TWP. You have to prep before staining with their Gemini Restore Kit to remove the mill glaze, only one coat should be applied, and they want another coat within 12-18 months. this is normal for new wood. See our article on this:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
New wood just does not last very long the first time stained and this is normal with all stain brands. Your results with TWP will be better the second time staining
If you want to switch, you will need to strip and brighten for the prep.
A Couple of other things to mention. TWP is oil based and beading water is not important nor do high quality stains actually bead water, they shed and allow the wood to breathe.
I also live in Raleigh and have a new deck. Is your deck a new one or is this a re-stain, and was your stain transparent or semi-transparent? Thanks!
Massachusetts, PT porch facing northeast, so some sun but not much. Was constructed late fall 2015, planning to stain for first time this week. Someone recommended power washing it instead of using a cleaner since it's had minimal use and is still "new"ish. So, we did that, then sanded. Provided we clear off debris right beforehand, are we okay to use this product or do we definitely need to use the recommended cleaners as well? Feeling anxious about colder nights coming and causing application issues if we have to do additional prep, but obviously don't want to do bad job. Many thanks!
You will need a deck cleaner while pressure washing lightly and then brighten for the final prep. It will be easy and will allow the stain to absorb deeper.
I have approximately 500 sq. ft. of 2nd growth redwood full dimension 2×6 I milled on my band mill drying inside. I hoped to stain it before laying it down on the stringers. Would it be wise to stain all 4 sides, and if so what product and process would you advise?
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
TWP wants the wood to be installed and weathered for 4-12 months. Prep first with a deck cleaner and wood brightener after the weathering and before the staining.
No need to stain all sides.
I just purchased 5 gal of TWP 1500 for my redwood deck and redwood fence. Live in california central valley. its hot in the summer over 100 degrees. I applied ducks back to the deck last year and I removed pretty much all of it with a pressure washer. do I need to do any further prep or can I just go ahead and stain?
As long as it clean and you removed all of the last coating, you should be okay.
Wonderful site! We have a new 1000 sf redwood deck in Southern California. Some of the deck get full sun most of the day, while the rest is covered by a patio cover. The deck has been seasoning for nearly six months now. We are considering TWP. We are very lazy people (at least I'm honest!), and want something that will wear well, and not be too much maintenance.
TWP 1500 would work well. Just one coat the first time staining. Clean and brighten for the prep first.
I have a new cedar fence that is about a month old. It appears to be rough sawn so can I use this right now as your article on new wood suggests? Not clear when the article says to let the wood dry. Does that mean I have to wait 4 months?
Dry as it is not visibly wet from rain. If rough sawn, you should be able to stain now.
We patched our weathered deck and now want to stain the entire thing. There is 10% new wood, the rest is old and grey. May I use the TWP 1500 after pressure washing the deck?
Prep with a deck cleaner and pressure washing. Brighten after. If you stain now instead of waiting the 4-12 months that TWP requires, then you will need to apply another coat to the new boards next Spring.
We are stripping off TWP Redwood from the previous owners. I believe it was TWP 1500. We live in Illinois so I don't think they used TWP 100 unless they bought it from out of state. How long as the 100 been unavailable in IL?
We want to use dark oak or black walnut. Do we need to be sure all of the redwood color is gone before applying the new stain color?
About 7-8 years ago, the 100 Series was removed from IL. It would be best to remove the old stain as much as possible. The Restore A Deck Stripper Kits will do it.
We removed as much stain as possible but now the new stain is really uneven. Any tips??
Post a picture in our forum. Thx
Live in Maine…… have a PT 15 year-old deck… am in the process of sanding it down to get rid of the weathering. Fairly sure I'm going with TWP1500, however, I'm concerned with how the stain color with look on the pt wood. With the greenish hue I wonder how this will affect the final color. Is there any kind of reference to view which would give an indication? TWP is only available via mail and I not like to make a mistake with color choice.
Have you considered some samples? This is always the best way to go as colors will vary when using a semi-trans stain based on your wood type, age, prep, etc.
Yes. I was trying to avoid the extra cost and thought there might be a reference picture of various stain colors on pt wood. On another note, when do I use a cleaner vs. a brightener —- I'm sanding everything right now so am getting most of that weathered look taken off.
Need advice. I live in Salt Lake City. Had a new redwood deck built last year. Used TWP 100 Clear two weeks after
being built. It was hand sanded down by contractor. Come spring it was all peeling and flaking. Some places the
finish is sill there but very few spots in the sun. The shade is not as bad but still poor. Deck is on south side. How should I restore this and with what product?
TWP wants you to wait 4-12 months for new wood to season and prepped with a deck cleaner. Sanding and waiting only two weeks was premature and the TWP never had a chance to soak into the wood correctly. Basically the directions were not followed correctly and caused your failure. Prep by using the Restore A Deck Stripper Kits. Stain again with the TWP, but if you want protection from graying, you will need a tint, not the clear.
I have a 2 year old cedar deck that has never been stained. We pressure washed then scrubbed with oxalic acid and it looks like new again. I live in Minnesota and the deck sees morning shade and hot afternoon sun and lots of winter snow cover. What treatment do you recommend? Considering Sikkens SRD and TWP. Would appreciate you're suggestions.
TWP for sure.
I have a five year old cedar deck in northern Illinois in full sun stained when new with semi transparent stain stripped horizontal boards and restained after two years I am now flipping boards but have to replace some plan on using hd80 and twp 15 00. Should I add new boards and then strip or strip the flipped boards then make repairs ?
Why are you using a stripper if you flipped the boards? Thee should be be any stain to remove. Use the Gemini Restore a Deck Cleaning Kits and the TWP 1500.
I have a pt pine deck in Syracuse NY that is less than 10 yrs. old. Horrible winters but deck is in full sun. It's been stained a few times with Sikkens Cetol SRD water based stain. Love the color and how it soaked into the wood but the floor turned dark and looked pretty bad where it's always in full sun. Sanded the deck down to bare wood and cleaned and brightened with Behr cleaner/brightener. Considering switching to the Sikkens oil based version, or possibly TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark. I've read more negative reviews for the TWP than AC but some seem to be from poor prep. Looks like I can use one coat with either one. Which one would you choose since I can't decide? Thank you.
Both TWP 1500 and the AC are excellent stains. TWP works very well for mold and that have been part of your problem turning dark.
Actually the deck floor only darkened where it is exposed to full sun. Would the darkening be caused by mold if it's in full sun?
It could just the stain you used. Certain brands like Super Deck and Penofin will darken in the sun, turing black. Lane and brightening should help.
Also, even after being sanded the section of floor that was fully exposed to sun is still darker than the rest of the floor.
We live in the NW and have left our new cedar deck "age" for over a year now and getting ready to apply the TWP cleaner/stain process (most likely the 1500 series) but the wife would like a darker stain on top of the railings and a lighter shade on the rails/flooring. Has anybody tried this combo?..or better just to stick with one shade? It's a rather large deck at nearly 900 sq.feet plus steps..so I have my work cut out for me this spring.
Lot easier to do just one color it can be done but you have to be extremely careful that none of the darker color get on the flooring.
Might be easier to get rid of the wife…
Very informative site, thank you. Beginning construction on a new PT pine deck in about 2 weeks. Pretty low/ground level, southwestern exposure, not much shade in the area yet. My question is this – I've been using the highly recommended TWP 100 in Honeytone to preserve the bamboo on some fence panels that went in about 3 years ago. The TWP simply does not do what I was told it does. Used it primarily to preserve the bamboo and prevent mold/mildew, but it just doesn't work in sun or in shade. After 4 separate TWP applications, removing the mold and mildew from the bamboo before I reapply, I'll still get mildew growth within a couple of months. My contractor still recommends TWP, but wondering if you have any alternate suggestions for my deck, or ideas why it's failing on the bamboo. Hesitant to stain/seal the new deck with a highly recommended product that doesn't seem to have worked for me. Thanks in advance.
Does the 100 Series actually penetrate into the Bamboo? I think you are using the wrong version. The TWP 300 Series is designed for Bamboo.
Sorry for the response delay – my original response doesn't seem to have posted. The bamboo was left to weather for a year before any coating was applied, so yes, it did penetrate. But I did have trouble sourcing TWP locally and the 100 was all I could find, so perhaps that's the root of my problem. TWP is highly recommended for bamboo in most Japanese garden forums, which is how I originally heard of it. If I end up not using it, what would be your alternate recommendation for my location? Thanks much.
The TWP 300 is recommended, not the 100. Try to find some of this. There is not any other options we know of.
I put TWP stain on our deck last summer. And I am so pleased the way it looks this spring! Is it a good idea to put on another coat or wait another year? And when we do put another coat on it, what is the best way to prep for another coat?
If it looks good, then leave alone. Next year, prep with the Gemini Restore Kit and reapply.
TWO YEARS AGO IN MAY I STRIPPED, SANDED, CLEANED AND BRIGHTENED (ALL GEMINI PRODUCTS) MY EAST FACING DECK IN MID MICHIGAN. I USED TWP 100 CEDAR TONE STAIN. LOOKED LIKE A MILLION BUCKS. HOWEVER, BY AUGUST THE COLOR WAS FADING. LAST YEAR I USED GEMINI RESTORE A DECK CLEANER AND BRIGHTENER THEN APPLIED TWP 100 CEDAR TONE. BY AUGUST IT WAS FADING AGAIN. IS THERE A BETTER WAY TO PREP THE SURFACE?
FRED GRZESIAK
You can try to just lightly clean the wood with warm water, some dish soap, and lightly scrub with a car wash brush.
Can a sealer be used after staining a deck or fence? Would that help the stain to last longer than a couple yrs? If so can you use any good sealer?
No you cannot add a sealer on top of a deck stain.
I built a knotty cedar deck 6+ months ago and am ready to prep for staining. I'm leaning towards TWP 1500 versus the TPW 100 since I'm a NY resident. I plan on prepping with Gemini Restore-A-Deck Kit. Is the TWP 1500 the best option for a cedar deck, southern exposure with full sun most of the day? The decking has a beautiful natural yellow/orange color after a rain storm. What is the best color choice to achieve the same look as when the wood is wet?
Rick, only the 1500 Series is allowed there. The 1515 Honeytone is the lightest tint and closest to a wet look.
I have a wooden deck about 15 years old and painted in a red color. I bought the house last year and want to refresh the deck as it is peeling and weathered. Want kind of prep is necessary and will TWP work?
No you cannot apply TWP over a paint. You will have to repairman unless you would like to sand off all of the paint or install new wood.
We live in South Central PA and applied Ready Seal (Nat. Cedar) 6 yrs ago to our red cedar deck. Looking to bring it back from it's neglected state this spring. Does the remaining Ready Seal (mostly on the upright railings) need stripped if we go with the TWP 1500 or can we wash, clean and brighten and apply it over the Ready Seal? Or maybe we'd be better off sticking with the Ready Seal and not waiting 6 years?! Thanks!
When switching brands is best to strip off remaining products so the new coating works at its best. I would switch to TWP.
My pressure treated pine screen porch was built in July 2015. It has weathered over a Maine winter and I plan on staining it in May. After 10 months including a winter – do you think that would count as "new smooth wood" meaning I should only hit it with 1 coat? Or should I go for 2 coats? I don't want a splotchy puddled stain mess and I would prefer not to over order stain! Would TWP1500 still be my best bet? The railings are in partial sun and behind the screen (labor intensive to re-stain) – do you think the stain would last 5 years on the vertical rails?
Thanks
I would prep well then apply 1 coat to all wood. You can always add another light coat to the horizontals in 1-2 years. The verticals will last 3-6 years depending on exposure.
I'm about to stain a very dry log cabin. 8 years ago it was stained with Sikkens . Pressure washing remove your most of the stain. My client wants the best stain used on his home, what do you recommend?
deck site: North East Georgia untreated wood approx. 12 yrs. old. deck is covered but we have two long sets of stairs and a landing that is exposed to full sun and elements. Used pure bleach and washed off. Looks great except for board warping and some bad cracking! Deck is sound but needs cosmetic help! After reading post I understand the bleach might not have been the best approach! I Don't know if I need to do a little sanding because my wood looks little fuzzed. And then use the restore and brightener then! And I'm not sure of the best stain. I thought the 1500 due to the condition since it stops rot and decay. Or if I need to use the Defy to help harden wood back up after my bleach job! But you have recommended the 100 series to most location around me. So confused! Please help for my poor deck's sake!!! Thanks for the advice!
Any of those stain brands would work. Normally you would use the 100 Series for your area. Both the 100 and 1500 help to prevent rot and decay. Your prep is fine for now. No need for more cleaning and brightening.
We live in Missouri. We have a new deck that faces east, and it is about 6 months old. It was built with the Yellawood pressure treated pine. According to the Yellawood official website, as long as the water doesn't bead up after the "sprinkle test", it's fine to seal and stain. Am I correct? Should I use TWP 100 series, TWP 1500 series or Defy stain? We don't have a dealer near our home, and we want to buy the correct products, otherwise it's very hard to return if we are not satisfied.
You are good to stain now but you will need to prep by using a deck cleaner and wood brightener. Try the TWP 100 Series.
Thank you for the information. We will try that.
I live in Dallas Tx, and have a 20 year old pressure treated yellow pine deck that hasn't been sealed in over 10 years. I had it pressure washed last week and would like to put a dark stain and sealer on it. Do I need to sand it also? And what product do you recommend. It does have some raised grain and feathering. Its a large deck also, 21×25, so I assume the best application will be with a roller. Any comments would be helpful.
No need to sand but if you want, try buffing with a floor buffer and white 3M sanding pad to remove the raised grain. Roller do not work well. Use an exterior stain pad. Try the TWP 103 Dark Oak or the Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown.
Dawn, can you post some pictures in the forum area please.
I am considering using the TWP 1500 product on outdoor furniture that is made of Australian Jarrah wood. For prep we are removing everything down to bare wood. Any comments on using this product for this use?
We have not used TWP on this wood type but have on other exotic woods. You have to be careful that you do not over apply and that you back wipe off any excess stain that does not absorb in 30-45 minutes.
I am getting ready to stain 6,720 sq ft of cedar fence in Texas. I have selected TWP 1500 or Ready Seal as my stain choice. i read the reviews on the color fading and the low coverage area per gallon, on the Ready Seal and that makes me want to go with the TWP. That being said, most of these reviews are dealing with deck (horizontal) staining, and i will be staining mostly vertical boards, with the exception of the stringers. The problem i have with TWP is it is not readily stocked in my area. A few stores have a few gallons here or there, but I am looking specifically at the 1516 Rustic and only one store stocks it in gallons, while a second store can get the 5-gallons in about a week at the price of $210 per 5 gallon. I have found some online sites that will ship the TWP at a reasonable rate, but I am concerned about starting a stain project and not having all the stain I need on hand , or readily available once the job starts. There is an endless supply of Ready Seal mahogany in my area, but based on your reviews I am leaning towards the TWP. Question – on rough cut cedar, new wood, do you think it will take 2 coats of TWP? and are your estimates of coverage pretty close on every project? You mention 150-250 sq ft – 1st coat, then 200-300 for second coat. thank for the assist.
Yes you will need two coats on the rough cut. The sq. footage is correct for the TWP 1500 Series.
I had a deck built a in Texas last July – the builder stained it with Cabot shortly thereafter. It's been a disaster. Peeling EVERYWHWRE, 80% or more loss of color. Just completely dissatisfied.
If I were to Gonwith TWP – do I need to have the person doing the staining strip the stain first – or just pressure wash it really well?
You will have to remove the cabot first.
I applied this to a new deck that had been aged a year to dry out. I used the Gemini restore-a-deck in preparation. Now two months later, I have Black Mold growing and it's quickly getting worse. I'm really not pleased with that outcome in such a short period of time.
Brian, mold can grow on any surface. Deck stains cannot stop the growth of mold on top of the coating. TWP does stop the growth \”in\” the stain and is the only stain on the market that is actually approved by the EPA for this. Sorry the mold is happening but it is most likely a product of your environment and not an issue with the TWP.
I'm new to this site but I've already found the information here to be quite valuable. I have a 15 year old cedar deck that I had previously stripped and restained with a horrible Wolman stain. It pealed after one winter and I've regretted it since. I have now stripped the deck and railing system down to bare wood and sanded it. I plan on using TWP1500 to restain. I have some rotted floor boards and I am replacing them before I stain. I think I need to use some wood stripper on them and then use the cleaner/brightener on the whole deck before I stain. My question is you've stated not to stain new decks for 4 to 12 months but I don't want to leave my deck sit over the winter before I stain it. Can I just stain the new boards along with the rest of the deck? Also, should I apply one or two coats of the TWP1500? Thank you.
If you stain the new boards now then you will need to apply another coat to them next Spring. Prep all with a cleaner and brightener. Only one coat on the new boards and two coats wet on wet for the older wood. Other option is to do one coat on all wood now than apply a light coat to all wood next year.
I think I prefer the option of one coat now and another next year. Will it provide as good of a finish if I do it that way? Can I apply the second coat first thing in the spring? Thank you
Yes that is the better option. You will be fine doing it in the Spring first thing.
I am trying to repair our 17 year old pressure treated deck and gazebo. It has been stained with behr solid stain water based redwood color. We are currently scraping and sanding off the peeling stain. Can we then stain with TWP1500? Your recommendations please.
You will have to remove all of the solid stain 100% if you want to use a semi-transparent like TWP. That can be a chore but if you get it done then yes the TWP will work.
Hello,
I leave in MA. Actually I bought TWP1500 a year ago, and I stripped the existing stain on my deck, and I applied two coats of TWP 1500. The color was redwood and I loved it.
However the last winter was horrible in terms of weather. During the winter time, I noticed that stain was lifted by ice built by frozen snows. So now, I can see light spots here and there. Have you ever heard about this kind of story?
What will happen if I reapply one coat on the existing stain after deck cleaner? Thanks
You most likely over applied if it lifted. Yes you can clean and prep then apply just one coat.
Hi I live in Ontario Canada. Plan to stain (for the first time) our three year old pressure treated wood deck. What are the steps I should take in preparing the deck before I use the TWP. Thanks
TWP is not allowed on Canada. Try the Defy Extreme or Armstrong Clark. Prep with a Restore A Deck Kit first.
Plan to stain deck next month (Sep 2015) for first time (deck built May 2014) with TWP 1500 honeytone or pecan. Live in Centerville OH (outside Dayton), and understand we need to use TWP 1500 vs. 100 for Ohio. Eventually, probably next year, I'll put lattice to cover deck opening between deck and ground. For now though I want to paint or stain the 6×6 posts. Deck is about 950 sf, so there are quite a few posts. We have dark brown/mocha composite trim on our pine PT deck, so I want to paint or stain the posts the same shade of dark brown/mocha. Believe it would give it a cleaner look. Question: Am I okay to paint the 6×6 PT posts? They'll eventually be covered by lattice, which will also be dark brown. I'm leaning toward painting them with either Behr Premium Plus Ultra Exterior paint or Behr Marquee Exterior paint. Had good luck with Behr exterior paint on our shed. BUT … is there a reason I should NOT paint the posts, and should stain them instead? And IF stain is recommended, is there a stain you'd recommend? Hoping to paint them in the next week or two, so thanks in advance for any responses/input to this issue. -Al
I would stain them and look at the TWP 1503 Dark Oak or the 1504 Black Walnut.
Thanks for the stain recommendations. Couple more related questions: *(1)* Should I also use cleaner/brightener on these lower posts? (Hadn't planned to on these lower posts, which will eventually be covered by lattice.) *(2)* Do I need to power wash these lower posts? (Again, hadn't planned to since they're going to be covered by lattice within a year or so. Was just planning to ensure they're washed/hosed-down clean before staining.) *(3)* I have a total of something like 25 posts, and was just planning on staining the lower posts closest to the outside of the deck, and not stain the lower posts underneath the deck towards the middle of the deck … they're pretty hard to get to. That okay?? Thanks again for inputs! -Al
Just power wash with water. There is really no need to stain the posts as they are already chemically treated for rot and decay. If you want to stain them for appearance then that is okay.
At a crossroad between TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark semi transparent stains for my cedar sided home. Purchased samples of each and applied to sample boards. Both apply well and look good. TWP 1500 seems to bead water better than AC when test sprayed with water but not sure that is a reason to choose one over the other. Any reason to pick one over the other at this point or just pick based on preferred color? Thanks!
Pick based on color.
Longevity of either brand is almost the same?
Yes when prepped well and applied properly.
I followed all of your steps for prepping my deck before I applied TWP 1500. When I applied, I left a wet edge as described on the container. I also applied the second coat "wet on wet" as described on the container. The weather was perfect – 72 degrees and no rain for 4 days. There a places on the deck where the stain is still tacky. The reading I've done says I probably applied too much stain. Help! What should I do? I'm worried that the stain is going to peel .
It will most likely not peel. Try to wipe off the excess stain with mineral spirits and some rags/towels. Make sure that you wet all rags with water when done and lay flat to dry.
I am building a new Boat dock out of pressure treated wood. It is very hot here in Texas, 103 or so. Builder has said to stain the deck immediately because this new pressure treated wood dries out very quickly and will warp and split. The walkway out to be boat house and part of the deck will be in direct sun all day. Should I stain it immediately as he suggests? Also, what product would you recommend?
No you should not stain right away. TWP wants 4-12 months. Always follow advice of the stain brand you are using. See this as well: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
I am going to be staining a new decorative cedar fence, built about 6 weeks ago, using TWP 1501. It is rough sawn and the wood is fairly clean, only a bit of sand that has splashed onto it with rainwater. Does the fence need to be prepped in any special way prior to staining? I have noticed those who are staining decks are using a deck cleaner and wood brightener prior to staining. Is this necessary/recommended with a cedar fence, and if so, what product(s) do you recommend? Thanks for all the helpful information!
New rough sawn wood does not need to be chemically prepped. Just make sure it is clean and dry.