This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul. I have been prepping decks for over 30 years. My sanding deck help tips on staining decking are based on my history as a wood deck restoration contractor. See here for more info about me.
Why Sanding a Deck Can Be an Issue
I appreciate your input at Deckstainhelp.com as we continue to be your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. See below for an article about Why Sanding a Deck Can be an Issue.
Feel free to leave a comment or ask questions below.
Sanding A Wood Deck
Sanding your deck can reduce stain penetration
One of the most frustrating problems that can crop up when you stain or restain your deck is that the stain doesn’t absorb the wood correctly.
There are several different reasons this can happen, but one of the more common issues is that the boards were not correctly sanded or prepared for the task. Today, we will examine the main causes behind poor absorption and explore some of the measures you can take to negate this issue in the future.
Materials Need for Proper Deck Sanding
- Dry weather and a dry deck
- Gloves, protective eyewear, and sanding mask
- Power Sanders: Drum, belt, and hand sanders
- Sandpaper: 60-80 Grit
My Deck Sanding Tips
- Never Use More than 60-80 grit sandpaper.
- Use a Power Sander
- Final Prep after Sanding
- Staining the Deck
- Confused? Ask Me for Help!
Check Your Sandpaper Grit
Often, we don’t invest much thought into the sanding process and get on with it without careful planning. This is where your difficulties will arise.
When sanding wood to prepare for a new coat of stain, you have to be extremely careful with how much you sand the wood and the level of sandpaper grit you use. Anything over 60/80 grit is too much and will leave the wood overly smooth. This means the pores are too small to absorb the stain correctly.
Use a Power Sander
My Pro Tip: Using power sanders will speed up the sanding process. Avoid circular sanders as they can leave swirl marks in your wood.
A good wood stain finish always starts with the correct sanding preparation. It is important to begin with a power sander and always finish by hand to reach difficult areas. Remember no more than 60 or 80-grit paper.
Final Prep After Sanding
My Pro Tip: Cleaning and Brightening after sanding will remove the sand dust and open up the wood pores, allowing the deck stain to penetrate better.
The next step is to clean the wood thoroughly after the sanding. Deck cleaners, also known as deck washes, lift dirt and unsightly mildew that accumulate over time.
Most deck cleaners contain soaps to help them clean effectively. The downside of the soap is that it raises the wood’s pH level. This can make the wood appear darker in color, and the higher pH balance also makes it more difficult for the stain to penetrate.
To reverse this after using a deck cleaner, apply a wood brightener. A wood brightener contains a mild acid formula that neutralizes the higher pH balance caused by caustic soaps. The effect is that the wood’s pH balance is restored, and the wood is brightened back to its natural color. This will ensure that your wood looks natural and shines through as it should after applying the stain.
Staining The Deck
My Pro Tip: In most cases, only one coat of stain should be applied to a sanded deck. The one exception is if a solid color decking stain is used.
All that’s left to do now is stain the wood. If you are having trouble with stain penetration, follow the steps we have outlined in this guide—oversanding does not have to be the end of the world. Sand the wood again, and make sure to properly clean and brighten it before reapplying your stain.
Need Help? Deck Sanding Questions?
Prep or Stain Help? Please ask me below if you have questions about my tips or need help choosing a stain. Just post a comment below and include as much information as possible.
Want more help on deck sanding? See How To Sand a Deck.
I have a 21 year old 12’x12′ deck that I just pressure washed (hasn’t been stained in many years). Obviously some tiny “splinter” size pieces of wood are sticking up and a couple of the boards are slightly warped on one end. I’m thinking of using an orbital sander…is this a good choice? For this deck, would you still recommend the 60-80 grit? Thank you!
Yes, you can use this and the grit of 60-80.
Thank you very much for your input! Tough finding one locally but finally did – now having trouble finding the hook and loop pads for it! Strangely, when I stained the ramp leading to my storage shed with Cabot stain a few years ago, it seemed the wood rotted within a couple months of me staining it (hadn’t really seen much rotting of it until after I stained it). Hopefully this won’t happen with my deck – LOL! Plan on using Valspar or Thompson’s Water Seal this time! Anyway, I appreciate your help!!!
Okay I am the caretaker of my church they had a deck put in awhile ago it was 3 years later that I stained the deck right after the winter it started to peel then it was stained again right after winter it peeled again. How do I fix this so it won’t happen again
Post a picture. What stain brand and type did you use?
okay will do how do I post the picture
Click the picture icon and upload it from the computer.
Here is a picture of the deck I was asking about it peels on floor boards and the hand rails any help would be great
Pressure wash for prep, let dry and spot sand any loose paint. Apply another coat of solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you do i use 60 grit 1st then 80 grit last how long do I let dry to stain
60-80. 48 hours to dry.
Do I use any type of deck wash or just pressure wash. Then I would sand do I need to wash down after I sand or just stain it. I hate asking all these question but it is becoming a pain doing this every year
here is a picture on the deck I am having the problems with I don’t remember what stain and what it was stained with the 2nd time all I know the 1st time I got the stain at true value and the 2nd time was at Lowe’s
I hope you got the picture
I have just finished sanding off an old semi solid stain from a pressure treated deck. After sanding, in some areas I have sanded off the pressure treatment exposing the bare pine which is lighter than the rest of the deck. After testing the new stain, it looks like these exposed areas do not soak up the stain well. Based on this, i am worried i will get very uneven result. Any advice for this situation? I haven’t used a cleaner or brightener yet, but I plan to before staining. Perhaps that will help. Attached are a couple of pics that show good boards after staining vs boards with exposed wood after stating to show the difference. Thoughts?
Thanks
Let the wood sit for 1-2 months bare and then clean and brighten for prep. This is the only way to even out the porosity.
I have a deck that is new wood, never stained or painted or anything. It’s been sitting for about 6 months and I’m ready to stain. Is sanding still necessary when wood has never had anything on it and is in good shape? I also already used a deck wash on it.
You do have to prep. See here fore new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
How dry should your deck be for sanding? We live in Upstate NY and are now past the dampness that comes with Winter and Spring.
No rain for 24 hours.
i have a 1200 sq ft deck that was stained with Cabot timber oil 3 years ago. The deck is over a pond so I can’t use chemicals or soap to clean. Power wash is the only option I can see. Can I use a water base over the existing oil?
No, you cannot apply a different brand of any type over the Cabot. Either sand it off or stay with Cabot.
I built My cedar deck last year, do I need to sand it or am I okay to clean/brighten it. I’m going to using Cabot’s timber oil… how long will this last.
Clean and brighten for the prep. Stain with one of these better brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
So no need to sand, When would one need to sand before staining?
No need to sand.
I sanded down and removed old semitransparent stain and I am going to switch colors and brands. My question is the old stain on the edge of the cracks going to show through if I am using another semitransparent stain? If so how exactly do you go about sanding them
You cannot sand that off. It will show through. Not much you can do but maybe choose a color that is similar so it does not stand out. DArk brown semi-transparent stain. Like TWP Dark Oak or Rustic Brown by Armstrong Clark.
I am refinishing an older deck. I cleaned it then sanded the floor and all the rails, then we had unexpected rain showers over night. How long do I have to wait to stain the deck?
48 hours after a rain is normal.
I have an old painted deck that I’ve stripped, sanded and cleaned. Problem is the sander I used didn’t get all the paint off and is still showing the wood to be rough with deep grooves. Is there a magical tool that can bring back the wood, or is it all elbow grease with a belt sander from here?
Sorry, no magical tool.
I have stripped and brightened my deck and there is still resemblance of the last semi transparent cedar stain on the deck that I’m replacing. Do I need to sand out the left over or will the new stain cover up the portions that are left over? I will be retaining with Armstrong-Clark transparent cedar tone.
You should be good to stain.
I already sanded my deck with 100 grit sand paper. What stain would you recommend if I don’t want to rent the sander and start over.
None really as they may not soak in and could peel.
Let it sit for a couple of months and then clean and brighten for final prep and it should be okay.
I have a cedar deck with a semi stain that looks terrible, peeling, worn, I tried my hand belt sander with 60 grit but taking for ever..stain not reallyeven coming off..
What type of deck/floor sander do you recommend…
See tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
I have a new PT deck I installed last summer. Going to stain now but I noticed that there are many screw holes that were installed too deep/rough (thanks to my novice friends), so I want to sand to remove these splinters before sealing. Should I just sand the screw holes (with 80 grit), or sand the whole surface? Wood is 9 months old, never sealed or stained.
Just lightly hand sand those areas.
80 grit?
Yes.
Sorry, but 60 grit ain’t gonna do it. It barely removes any of the previous finish. 24 grit on a 4 inch belt sander. If using a 12×18 sander 20 grit. Then apply a deck brightener and it will help open the pores.
My deck is painted brown and I’ve redone it twice in the last 5 years. It’s a big deck and a lot of work but the paint is peeling again and it looks awful. I want to rent an electric sander and sand all the paint off and then stain it. There is also a big pine tree that hangs over the deck so there’s always tree sap. What would you recommend I do. Also, I’m 75 years old (woman) so would I be taking on a job that is too much for me at my age? Thank you
It is a lot of work. I would suggest hiring it out if you want to sand this down.
We cleaned our 10 year old deck which has never been stained – only sealed with clear sealant. We used the bleach, non-amonnia soap, alcohol mixture to clean it with a stiff brush and water hose. I like the greying effect of weatherization and plan to put a clear sealant on it. Do we need to use a brightener and will this help in evening out any wood tone variations from age?
A brightener will not be needed or help to even out the variations.
I have approximately 15 coats of stain on my deck and, even though I have sanded a couple of times through the years, I cannot get an stain to adhere.
I plan to sand again this spring, but my question is should I put down a coat of primer first, such as Rust-Oleum, and then the stain? Thanks. Dave
No, a primer will not help. The only way to fix is to fully sand it off.
I will be sanding my (pressure treated) deck with a belt sander, with 60 grit sandpaper. Should I get the ceramic sandpaper, or the aluminum oxide sandpaper?
Not sure if it matters, to be honest.
One possible benefit is that ceramic (supposedly) lasts 3 – 5 times longer than aluminum oxide (according to this site, anyway):
Ceramic belts costs between 2 – 3 times more than aluminum oxide.
So if the claims are true, then the cost is at least break-even, so at minimum, you save time (changing the belt).
Does anyone have any experience with ceramic paper? Does it do as good a job as aluminum oxide, on wood?
Thanks. Good site, appreciate your advice.
Sorry but no experience. I am sure it works fine as sandpaper is designed for wood in general.
I’m confused!! Everything I’ve read says to sand last before applying the stain. Here, however, you say “the next step [after sanding is to clean the wood thoroughly.” Does it matter whether I sand last before applying the stain (in my case I’m using a solid stain PPG/Sikkens)? My concern is if the wood gets wet after sanding that the stain will not adhere as well. Please clarify!
Clean and brighten the wood after the sanding is done. It opens the pores up.
THANKS!
Hi, I bought Defy Stripper, Brightener and Stain. My intention was to strip the deck but, instead, I ended up sanding the deck down to the wood. Should I still use the stripper and then brighten or should I use some Thompson Deck Wash ( I did not buy Defy Cleaner) that I have had and then brighten? Thanks
Do not use the Thompsons. If you use the Stripper, dilute it by 1 part stripper to 3 parts water.
Can you say why to not use the deck wash? What about their sealer?
Thompsons is a poor prep product that does more damage than good.
Hello I have to sand off 7 year old Buhr Deck over from my pressure treated Deck. My question is do I need to be concerned with solid stain between the deck boards the sander cannot penetrate?
If covering with a new solid stain then no.
I am matching the color currently applied, using TWP 100 series that was recommended by DSH. With that said, do I need to be concerned what remains between the seams? The gap is about 1/8″
The TWP will not cover the solid stain in the cracks so yes, it will show through and not look that good.
Need to strip the deck paint off my deck so I can refinish with an oil based stain. Deck surface has never been stained so the wood flooring should accept a stain after prepared. Which method is best… sanding or stripping? What is recommended for this paint (not stain) in a stripping situation?
This cannot be stripped. You will have to power sand this to remove it.
I need to remove a solid stain same process I assume 60 grit on my belt sander. Im in a dry climate 5000 ft in Colorado… no mold or power washing needed on my practice spot. I dont believe it will need it. Also building an enclosed patio for jacuzzi have good cross ventelation and fans and plants to pull humidity down…recommendations for interior decking and wall material poly over cedar ?? PAINTING the ceiling too outdoor water resistant paint heavy coats? Thanks good video.
Start with 60 grit and then 80 grit. Stay with cedar wood for the new enclosure. It will work great and have that natural wood appearance. You do not need a paint for the interior ceiling. Go with a natural stain looking semi-transparent stain. It will last forever since it is an enclosed ceiling.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
It’s me again😄 I stripped and brightened my cedar deck. It is drying now. Some places on some of the boards are fuzzy. Can I just spot sand with some 60 sand paper or must I sand the whole thing? If I can spot sand, would I need to brighten again?
You would have to sand all evenly so the stain would take evenly. Brighten and rinse well after.
I installed a new 10×12 deck about a month ago. Does it need to be sanded? I can’t find anything that said otherwise. Other than preservation of the wood, I’m also concerned about areas where someone can accidentally stab themselves with a piece of wood from a board. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am totally new to this.
You do not need to sand for prep. Clean and brighten. See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you for all the suggestions and help. I’m just getting confused based on different comments if I should or should not sand my deck prior to it’s first staining?
It is a new cedar deck that was installed 3+ months ago. I plan on using RAD and will be prepping with their cleaner and brightener.
Thank you for your help!
No reason to sand new wood unless you get some furring from heavy oxidation removal. You should not have this issue since the wood is only 3 months old.
Just finishing up sanding my cedar deck, and have purchased the RAD cleaner, brightener, and stain. However, the weather has turned cold and rainy much earlier than usual. Is it better try try to sneak in the staining on a dry day or wait until the Spring?
You talk about letting a new deck “season”, is that the case with a sanded deck as well? Would this be another reason to push of staining until the Spring?
You can wait or do it now if the weather cooperates. Typically just one coat for sanded wood.
Sounds good. With the wet on wet application does it matter if it has been raining recently and the wood has been absorbing a lot of water? Or does it just need to be not raining on the day you stain?
Let it dry for a day after heavy rain.
My deck was stained about 3 years ago with a Behr semi-transparent. I have sanded all the railings and spindles down to the bare wood. Next I will strip, sand and brighten the floor. Being that everything will be down to bare wood, should I use one or two coats of Defy semi-transparent stain? Also, do I need to apply brightener to railings and spindles?
Yes, you have to brighten the wood. Use two coats applied wet on wet.
I’ve read great care should be taken to prevent SANDED wood from moisture prior to stain application. Articles site moisture shrinks and/or closes pores and will require re-sanding to re-open pores. However, this article suggests brightening AFTER staining. Shouldn’t pores be open wide after sanding already? If a brightener is necessary, wouldn’t it be better timed BEFORE sanding and allow the 60-80 grit sanding process to open pores?
Sorry, I misstated in my earlier question. This article suggests brightening AFTER sanding.
No, sanding closes the pores while a brightener will open it up. Do it after the sanding.
We’re only sanding with 60-80 grit. Does that also close pores? If so, is it okay to wait a few days to brighten? Will moisture between brightening and staining close pores? Our deck is over 1,500 sq ft with complicated metal balusters, so it’s not a one day job. Are we safe to work on sanding over a few days to a week, with possible rain and then drying time between project days? We’d the brighten once all sanding is complete. Then wait 2-3 days to dry for staining.
All sanding can close the pores. Yes, you can wait to brighten for a few days or longer after the sanding is all done.
We plan to vacuum sawdust, then apply Sherwin Williams Revive (brightener), giving a light rinse with the pressure washer (wide fan far away). Is this sufficient, or should we use a “deck cleaner” prior to brightening?
Use the deck cleaner as well will help.
Running out of steam. Do I pay a pro the $525 he wants to sand this or rent a sander and what should I rent? This is three layers of semi solid.
Have someone do it as it is a lot of work.
Have a 4 yr old cedar deck that I previously stained with Behr Premium 3 times. As you say, the stuff is terrible and has peeled more and more each year. I’m done with the Behr and am planning on starting over. I’m not a fan of chemicals so was planning on sanding. Do I need to use a cleaner after sanding? Can I just pressure wash and stain?
You seem to recommend the Defy and Restore-A-Deck, would you prefer either for a cedar deck that gets a lot of shade in the rainy climate of Eugene, OR? When I do stain do I need to worry much about night time condensation effecting how the stain takes? It has started to get colder with more dew over night as we move into the fall. Thanks for the advice
Clean and brighten after the sanding for best results. condensation should not have any effect.
Thanks, any advice on which stain for a deck that gets a lot of shade and moisture?
The RAD or Defy would be the best options.
Thanks, ordered up the RAD products today. One more question: I was reading your post about the wet-on -wet application. Does this method work on a newly sanded deck, or does a sanded deck only absorb 1coat like a newly laid deck?
If you sanded the deck, just apply one coat.
Thanks
I have a 4 year old cedar deck never stained before and I pressure washed and used a cleaner/brightener and pressure washed again. Do I really need to sand it down. Looks in good condition?
You can stain it after but we would not suggest Behr stain. Has very bad results: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
I powerwashed newer deck (2 years old cedar) with brightener/cleaner. Has never been touched with anything, is nice and clean and smooth. Do I really need to sand and clean again before applying semi-transparent stain?
No need to sand. Go ahead and stain.
I’m in the same situation. 4 year old cedar deck with no stain or anything applied to it before. Using pressure washer and a brightener/Cleaner from behr. What your saying is I can stain it now? Looks good after cleaner/brightener.
You can stain it after but we would not suggest Behr stain. Has very bad results: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Any tips on how to remove screws that are exposed above the deck surface prior to sanding?
Can you screw them in deeper to counter sink them?
I tried that already. These screws have been in there 20 years!
cut the heads off will a dremel, then add new screws beside.
I see some stains that are oil acrylic, that seems to be an oxymoron, I believe it was floods and pittsburg stains, is that any good
Oil acrylic is still water based. Just a play on words.
Those brands do not work well.
if there is that on the railing how should I clean to use oil
how should I clean the deck if it was used and I want to use oil based stain
Strip and brighten. Sand if needed to remove all.
Duckback superdeck 9600 solid (bought by sherwin williams) is absolutely horrible.
I have just finished sanding my deck awaiting delivery of my TWP stain and I want to prep it. My deck is only a year old down to the natural cedar wood with no dirt, no gray, and no mold. Can I skip the cleaning step (since it seems to be primarily “used to lift dirt and unsightly mildew which accumulates over time”) and go right to the wood brightener step? Or do you still recommend cleaning with a deck cleaner and why is this still important? Thank you for your time and experience
Clean and brighten is best. The cleaning will help remove the sand dust, allowing to stain to soak in better.
Great, thank you so much! Just ordered the RAD 2-step clean and brightening kit
I am planning on re-staining a wood stairway, last stained 4 years ago. It’s a grey color today. I am planning to power wash and, once dry, sand. Do I follow the clean and brighten process you recommend? Also, is there a particular type of stain I need for the stairs vs. a deck?
Thank you!
You use the cleaner and the brightener while pressure washing. Any quality stain will work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Do I still need to sand first?
No need.
what type of sanders make quick work? Orbital, belt or sheet sander? Or are they all about the same…? I would like to try the big drum floor sanders but wood planks tend to “warp” a bit where the edges raise up slightly so I feel a big drum sander would just sand the edges of the planks? Is that true?
Thanks!
We use belt and hand sanders. Drums will work as well but they are cumbersome to use on a deck.
I am about to *replace* my deck with brand new PT 5/4 x 6 deck boards. I am currently drying them right now in my lanai. In the past I have never bother to sand before staining but always wondered if I can get a better long lasting look if I did.
1. I was told that if I sand that I would remove some of the PT protective properties of the wood. True? I would think not since the chemical would have penetrated deeper than just the top layers. Just wanted to confirm.
2. Will sanding with 60/80 grit sandpaper *enhance* stain absorption vs non-sanding — or does it make no difference?
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
1. No not true.
2. Sanding is not the way to prep. See above link.
We have an old deck that we stripped before sanding as the old oil based previous stain kept clogging the sand paper. after stripping, brightening and power washing we sanded the entire deck. Wood now looks very good. We plan on lightly power washing before applying Armstrong semi transparent stain but should we use a cleaner & brighter on the deck as well as power washing?
Yes, it will help.
I plan to re-stain the siding on my house. The siding dates to 2012 and was originally stained with a cape code grey semi-transparent, and later a clear coat of some kind was put over that without any prep work at all.
Needless to say, it looks terrible. So I plan to go down to bare wood before applying a new stain.
The wood is weathered and existing stain, as it is, is peeling, cracking and in tiny little grooves in the wood.
I’m going to use a mechanical sander and 60 grit paper. My question is – should I use a stripper before sanding to try and get the old stain out of deep grooves? Or, once the wood has been reasonably sanded down, should I apply a stripper then?
Once the wood is bare, do I still need to apply a deck cleaner and wood brightener? Or can I just apply the stain to the bare untreated wood?
I do not think this can be stripped so you will need to sand to remove. Clean and brighten the wood after for final prep.
OK – I’m definitely planning on sanding. Will be staining with TWP 100 (assuming I like the color) – which cleaner/brightener should I use? How much time between cleaning and application of stain?
Use the TWP Gemini Restore Kit for the cleaner/brightener. Wait 48 hours after prep to stain.
I hired someone to re-stain my 15 year old front porch (it’s very large, covered, and does not receive much direct sun). He used Cabot oil based semi-solid stain. I don’t really like the look of the semi-solid stain and I hate the color. I’ve since learned that this type of stain can only be removed by power sanding it. Ideally I’d like semi-transparent, but sanding everything down is not something I want to do or can afford to have someone do right now. So I’ve accepted that I have to stick with the semi-solid stain. I was planning on using Sherwin Williams stain because I’ve always been told they are good, but after reading everything on this site I am second guessing that decision. I guess my main question is, what would be the best product to use on top of the cabot oil based semi-solid stain? Does whatever I use need to be oil based or water based? Thank you!
You have to remove the Cabot if switching brands. No way around it unless you want to paint the deck with a solid stain.
Thank you. If this is the look I’m going for, would you suggest twp 1500 cedartone or California redwood? Some of the pictures I see of cedartone look too light.
1520 Pecan possibly.
I have a pine deck about 250 square feet including stairs. It has been stained 6 years ago with SW solid stain. I want to re-stain the deck, stairs, and only the top of the railings (rest of railing’s stain is intact) in the same SW solid stain color. Some of the boards are unstained. I stripped the deck, stairs, and top railings with Behr stripper and only a small amount of stain came off. Is there a better stripper to get off the stain or should I just sand? If I do sand what kind of sander should I use? Do I just need to sand only the boards with the stain or all the boards? I know I need to use a cleaner after I sand, but do I need to brighten, since I am re-staining in the same solid color?
If you are using a solid color again you do not have to remove all of the current stain. Just sand or pressure wash off the loose stain and dirt, leaving any intact stain that has not failed. No need to brighten.
When you say it should not be more than 60 to 80 grit, you mean it should not be too coarse or it should not be too fine grit ? is 40 grit ok ?
Not finer. So not higher than 80 grit. 40 is a little rough. You should go over with 60.
I used Behr semi-transparent deck and siding stain in 2014. I sanded with a floor sander, then used a brightner. The decks came out awesome. But four years later, they are starting to peel about 25 oercent on one deck and 50 percent on the other. The rest of it is in tact, but faded. I pressure washed this weekend and didnt phaze what was not peeling, but it came clean. It is really on there in the pkaces yhat are not oeeli g. What is oeeling is like big pieces of plastic. My question is, Can I use a barrel sander and not brother stripping. I will use 60 to 80 grit. My back deck is about 25′ high and i have trees, plants, etc i do t want to harm with chemicals. Plus i dont kniw how i would keep the stripper of the siding goi g down.
You can use a drum sander to remove.
I just installed a new cedar deck. The wood sat outside for about a month prior to getting installed and some boards got more sun exposure than others. I would like to even out the color and weathering of the boards. Can I sand the entire deck and then stain in about 2 months? Would you stain now or right before I stain?
Do not sand. Install, let weather for a few months, clean and brighten for the prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
How much time between using a deck cleaner and a deck brightener and applying Defy Extreme semi-transparent stain?
After the prep, wait about 48 hours to apply the stain.
how to strip off the horrible Deck Restore
It cannot be stripped. It will need to be sanded off.
I am preparing to re-stain my deck.
Some background 2 years ago I applied TWP 1500
The deck is in good shape and I am planning on using the restore a deck cleaner and brightener
My questions are:
1) Do I need to sand the deck first before cleaning
2) Is it necessary to use a pressure washer?
3) I have a 3000 PSI 2.5 GPM pressure washer. What is your recommended distance to hold the nozzle from the surface assuming a 45 degree nozzle; or is the 3000 PSI just to much?
Thanks for the help and your reviews are outstanding!
Leo
1. No need
2. Yes, while using the deck cleaner
3. 8-12 inches away from the wood and the pressure will drop in half.