Deck Stain Reviews Ratings
Deck Stain Reviews Ratings
Deck Stain Reviews Ratings

Best Stain for New Cedar Deck

New Cedar Wood

New Cedar Wood

What Stains Work Well a New Cedar Deck

There are many different types of cedar used for exterior surfaces with Red Cedar being the most common. Unlike some types of wood that need to dry out, new cedar should be cleaned and stained as quickly as possible to avoid water damage and sun fading (Always follow the stain brand’s directions though).

Many wood stains have difficulty penetrating new dense woods like cedar. If a stain does not penetrate the wood it will remain on the surface and become susceptible to peeling and flaking. The best wood stains for new cedar are deep penetrating paraffinic oil based stains that are thinner in viscosity. Stains for new cedar wood should dive deep into the wood to condition the wood cells and provide protection from UV fading and moisture damage.

We like a couple of different stains for new cedar wood. One is Armstrong Clark Wood Stain. It is composed of both drying and non-drying oils that break apart from one another throughout the application process. The non-drying oils dive into the new cedar to condition the wood’s cellular structure while the separated drying oils cure on the exposed surface to not only lock in the conditioning oils, but to protect the surface from natural weather exposure.

Another similar stain best for new cedar wood is Timber Oil Brand. This is a paraffin oil based wood and deck stain that penetrates deep into new cedar wood and decks. This cedar stain conditions the wood cells while providing water and UV protection. The Timber Oil brand promises ease of application of good penetration into new decking.

Prepping new cedar wood is important to stain life and performance. New cedar wood should be cleaned using a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner to remove mill glaze and other contaminants that may have infiltrated the wood during construction.

Once the new cedar wood has been cleaned the wood will appear darker. While the wood is still wet, apply a wood brightener to restore the cedar wood’s original color. Brightening wood after it has been cleaned will also open the wood pores to allow the conditioning oils to penetrate better.
Proper cleaning and brightening will ensure the best stain for new cedar wood will perform as expected and provide lasting beauty.

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140 Responses to “Best Stain for New Cedar Deck”

  1. Andy says:

    I have a 12 month old cedar deck that I am getting ready to stain for the first time. I used restore a deck to clean and brighten. After I was done and dried it was clean but very fuzzy. I used a low pressure (40 degree) nozzle and kept my distance from the wood, but it must have been too much. I then sanded the entire surface. It looked great at first, but now after a few days of rain, the deck looks really dark – almost black in some areas. There are also areas with little dots on it. When it dries there are grey streaks already on some of the boards. It was cleaned and brightened less than two weeks ago. I plan to stain with TWP Honeytone. Will it look dark and bad if I stain now? What other prep do you recommend? Thanks much.

    • You might want to brighten again. The sanding may have caused an issue. What did you sand with?

      • Andy says:

        I used a random orbital flooring sander with 80 grit paper.

        • I would brighten again to see if that takes care of the blackness.

          • Andy says:

            Thanks for your help. Looking closer it looks like there are also mold spots on some of the boards. Also, the edge of some of the boards are already greying (it has only been a couple weeks). Do you think it would help to use a bleach mixture to kill the mold? Do you think anything needs to be done about the new greying before staining – will it show through?

          • Yes you should prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener to remove the graying and mold spots. Only use bleach as a last resort.

    • Dave says:

      Don't use any tone color on cedar,use a clear or natural,or it will look like barn paint on there,the streaks are from the water,you should stain or oil after sanding right away before it get wet,

  2. Brad says:

    I have a Western Red Cedar Fence that waws just installed a week ago. I'm looking to stain with a semi-transparent. What are some good options as far as stain brands. I want to get away from Home Depot and Lowe's. Is Sherwin Williams a decent pick?

  3. Cynthia Fung-Sunter says:

    My south facing front porch and steps have just been completed. My builder says that the wood is pure grade cedar, not kiln dried. I live in Vancouver, British Columbia so we have a lot of rain in the fall and winter (and spring, sometimes!) months. It is now September 8 and luckily there is a period of dry weather over the next week. I'm limited to Canadian available products like Penofin, Sikkens, Benjamin Moore. Would you recommend I stain it now? Which product? What kind of preparation do I need to do? (do I use a wood cleaner and brightener?) I've spoken to so many people in paint/stain stores – and they all have different answers! Help! Please reply ASAP.

  4. Kim says:

    Sorry, I'm a little confused and just need some clarification, want to make sure I do this right!! We have just built a new 18 x 22 cedar deck on the back of our house and aren't sure when to stain it. At the top of this article you mention that cedar is a wood that can be stained right away, but in your article about new decks in the comments section you give the advice for people to wait several months prior to staining their new cedar deck. Should we wait or go ahead and stain now? Thanks for a very informative web site.

  5. Vic says:

    Hi, We have built a new porch and the interior walls are cedar (not the outside, nor the floor). We want to preserve the color. Some of the cedar is smooth, some is rough-hewn. What kind of sealer should we use?

  6. Barry says:

    I have a two year old cedar deck that I have sanded down with an upright orbital using 36 grit the to remove the previous stain (Sherwin Williams) and also remove some of the claw marks in the wood from dog claws and level out slight cupping in some of the boards. Can I go right to staining since it is down to fresh wood or do I still need to use a cleaner, then brightener before staining? Thanks.

    • A light cleaning to remove sand dust would help the stain absorb deeper.

      • Barry says:

        Ok, so no need to use a cleaner and/or a brightener at this point? I would rather not do if not needed but at the same time, if it would help I would do.

        • You can but you do not have to. Main thing is to remove dust and a good rinse will do that.

          • Barry says:

            I went with the TWP 100 series.Their specs call for a coverage of 100-200 sq ft per gallon. I have 500 sq ft of deck and in was only able to get one coat of the product on in 4-5 hours and used only one and a half gallons of product. I painted each board with a brush then backbrushed each board before moving on to the next one. I'm hoping this would be adequate but I see that their recommendation is two coats wet on wet. Prior to staining I washed the deck with a hose 1 1/2 days prior and squeegied any excess water away. We have have good warm temps around 80 degrees during the day so I feel confident the wood was nice and dry. Should I be considering a second coat at this point? And does it concern you that I was only able to get a 325-350 sq ft per gallon coverage rate?

          • New wood does spread much farther. Best to leave alone and do a light cleaning in Spring to remove dirt and apply another coat then. I will work better this way since you did not apply wet on wet.

  7. FoskeyC says:

    I'm having a new Red Cedar Fence installed in one week (It's December and I'm in the northeast) my question is, the linear feet of my fence is 345', are you saying I have to clean and prep this fence in it's entirety prior to staining? That is A LOT OF FENCE. Is it at all possible to just wait until Spring and then go about staining it?

    • If the wood is rough sawn (most fences are) then no need to prep. If smooth (like deck board) then yes you should prep. This removes the mill glaze allowing the stain to penetrate better. Waiting to Spring and you will still need to prep.

  8. Dave says:

    Sorry took a bit to figure how to post pics from iPad
    Here’s what the old wood looked like before I started and it appx. 13-15 years old

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*This is first and foremost a help site from our experience as wood restoration contractors. All stain and prepping manufacturer directions were followed with our reviews and ratings. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Take inconsideration that wood and deck stain results may differ due to prepping procedures, different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, natural weathering, etc.