I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in staining cedar decks. Most of the wood decks we have worked on have been western red cedar, and when new, you should take care to use a proper wood stain. See here for more info about me.
- Wait 3+ months before staining new smooth cedar to allow weathering, which creates a porous surface that holds stain better.
- Always clean new cedar with a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner, then apply a wood brightener to open pores for better penetration.
- Use a deep-penetrating, low-viscosity wood stain on new cedar to prevent peeling and protect against UV fading and moisture damage.
- Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain can be applied to damp cedar the same day as prep, making it a highly convenient option.
Best Stain for New Cedar Wood Deck
New Smooth Wood
I appreciate you visiting Deckstainhelp.com, your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. If you are looking for honest deck stain ratings, look no further. In this updated article, we offer suggestions for how to prepare and stain a new cedar deck. Feel free to leave a comment below.
My Tips for Choosing a Cedar Deck Stain
Are you trying to find the best cedar wood and decking stain? Here are a few things to consider when comparing options and how to stain your brand-new cedar.
- Weather the Cedar Wood
- Prepping New Cedar Wood
- Is your Cedar Rough-Sawn
- Choose a Penetrating Wood Stain
- Compare Best Cedar Stain
- Watch My How to Stain a New Deck Video
- If you have questions on New Cedar Stains, ask me below.
For more options beyond cedar-specific stains, see our full list of the best deck stains available today.
1. Weather the New Cedar Deck
Many types of cedar are used for exterior surfaces, with Red Cedar being the most common. We recommend waiting 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. (Always follow the stain brand’s directions, though.) After the weathering, all new cedar wood should be cleaned and brightened for the prep. This will remove any oxidation and mill glaze.
2. Prep New Cedar Wood
Prepping new cedar wood is important to stain life and performance. It should be cleaned using a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner to remove mill glaze and other contaminants that may have infiltrated the wood during construction.
Once the new cedar wood has been cleaned, it will appear darker. While the wood is still wet, apply a wood brightener to restore its original color. Brightening wood after it has been cleaned will also open the wood pores, allowing the conditioning oils to penetrate better.
Proper cleaning and brightening will ensure the best stain for new cedar wood will perform as expected and provide lasting beauty.
3. New Rough Sawn Cedar Wood
Rough-sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces but rather for vertical surfaces such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood is very absorbent and does not have a mill glaze. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained immediately.
4. Use a Penetrating Wood Stain
Many wood stains have difficulty penetrating dense wood like cedar. If a stain does not penetrate the wood, it will remain on the surface and become susceptible to peeling and flaking. The best wood stains for new cedar are deep-penetrating wood stains that are thinner in viscosity. Stains for new cedar wood should dive deep into the wood to condition the wood cells and protect from UV fading and moisture damage.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
We like a couple of different stains for new cedar wood. One is Armstrong Clark Wood Stain. It comprises both drying and non-drying oils that break apart throughout the application process. The non-drying oils dive into the new cedar to condition the wood’s cellular structure, while the separated drying oils cure on the exposed surface to not only lock in the conditioning oils but also protect the surface from natural weather exposure.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain
Another similar stain best for new cedar wood is Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain. This water-based wood and deck stain penetrates deep into new cedar wood and decks. This cedar stain conditions the wood cells while providing water and UV protection. The Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain brand promises easy application of good penetration into new decking.
My Pro Tip: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain can be applied to damp wood on the same day as prep!
4. Best Deck Stains for Cedar
See our best cedar stain options in the table below. You can click on the links to read the full reviews for each.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $58.99 *Free Shipping |
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5. Staining a New Deck Tips Video
6. Need Help? Cedar Staining Questions?
Please ask below if you have questions about my article or need tips and advice for staining a cedar deck. Just post a comment below and include as much information as possible.
If you wait three months to stain (presumably after deck boards are installed) what about the underside of the boards? Shouldn’t all sides of the boards be stained, not just the top?
Thanks!
No, only need to stain the exposed/visible wood and in most cases, deck stain manufacturers never suggest to stain all sides as this can create dry rot if fully encapsulated. You want the wood to be able to breathe.
I am getting western red cedar 1x8s installed over old porch posts. Also 2×6 cap on railings. I live in Tennessee, very wet and hot and humid. Can I wait till spring to stain these cedar pieces? It will be too cold to stain in 4 months. The rails and posts are protected from most rain by an overhang. But gets sun in the winter. I want a more brown color which stain do you recommend?
thanks
Yes, Spring would be best to prep and stain. Look at TWP in Dark Oak or Restore A Deck in Dark Walnut colors.
Hello!
My general question is:
Do we need to wait 3 months (depending on our area) to stain the brand new vertical cedar trim and rail caps we will be having installed on our deck later this month?
Details:
Our cedar and trex deck is 25 years old; it is south facing but only about 1/3 of the deck floor gets sun because of area trees.
It has cedar trimmed glass panels with a cedar cap rail;
We have a walk out basement so there is a full (horizontal) cedar slat/board wall that covers the gap to your left as you go down the cedar stairs to ground level.
This month (May) we are replacing all the cedar ONLY.
The trex deck surface, trex stair treads, joists, posts etc. are all fine still – just the cedar is weak in spots.
Ideally, our contractor would stain all the new cedar trim first, then cut it to size and install- touching up any exposed cut ends as needed.
I can see not staining a large flat surface like the entire deck floor for a few months but is it also a bad idea to not wait on the many small, vertical pieces too?? (though the slat wall is quite large though vertical)
And/or could/should we still do the ‘water pooling’ test on the trim pieces? Stain if it is not pooling?
Thanks for answering the same question a zillionth time! I’ve read so many opinions- getting confused!
(for what it is worth – based on your info. – I am leaning towards TWP 100 pro series or 1500!)
Yes, you have to wait: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
You cannot pre-stain. TWP wants 4 months at minimum and only 1 coat:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-stain-waiting-period-for-new-wood
New cedar deck in full sun all day. What deck sealer would you recommend to help protect from uv and high humidity? We are in Iowa so we get hot, humid summers and cold winters.
After the wait and prep, use the Restore A Deck Stains or TWP 100 Series.
Getting ready to build a new covered front porch with cedar decking boards for the flooring. It will be new cedar wood, kiln dried. I’m at that point where I’ve probably read TOO much and am tired of reading and just need to make a decision. Found my way here…what is the step by step process you would recommend? Should I stain before installing or just wait until after installing the boards? Is weathering necessary on kiln dried cedar? Are wood cleaners and brighteners necessary on new cedar wood? And what stain is best for cedar decking boards? I had used Defy Extreme on my flower window boxes that I made and really liked the Butternut color. I was planning on using this exact stain and color on the cedar floor to match the window boxes but then read water-based stain is not good for smooth wood like cedar?!? Alas, information overload is setting in! Please help and thank you!
You need to install, weather for 1-2 monhts, and then prep before applying a stain to kiln dried cedar.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I have a big cedar deck that I inherited, the planks are soft and screws are popping out, it does not look good anymore. I want to replace the wood in stages so we can use the deck this summer.
My question is; if I want to stain the wood should I stain the bottom of the new planks before installing them? I live in northern Ontario, it is very wet in the summer(usually ) and cold in the winters.
Thanks
No need to stain the bottoms.
Which oil-based stain do you recommend for a new rough-sawn cedar fence? Do you recommend washing and brightening the new fence prior to applying the stain? Thank you for all the helpful information.
If rough sawn and the wood is clean and dry, you can stain right away without prep. Use TWP Stains:
https://www.twpstain.com/wood-and-deck-stains/twp-wood-stains
or Armstorng Clark Stains:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains
I have new cedar and metal railings around a plastic deck. It has been weathered for 3 months now. Is it okay to use a water based semi transparent stain and sealer on this?
Thanks,
Yes. See this for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Can I use a urethane to lock in the look of new cedar posts and handrails?
No, it will peel and blister on outside wood.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
I have an old cedar deck and am replacing the bad boards, maybe 35% of the floor boards total. I want to sand all the old floorboards plus railings, etc, that are left and would like to stain the whole deck with TWP 1500 honey tone. I know I should let the new boards weather at least 4 months before staining but what happens if I don’t? Is it just a matter of not working as well and then needing to do it again sooner? I could live with that if I just needed to re-stain the new boards again next summer. Don’t want to do any damage, however. Please advise.
It will not take well, dry blotchy, and will prematurely fail most likley.
Thanks. Just to be clear, I’m using kiln dried cedar decking and plan on sanding it with 80 grit. Still need to wait?
Yes, 1-2 months with KDAT and then cleaner and brighen for prep. Sanding is not needed.
Built a new deck last year. Cedar top board, pressure treated frame. Ready to seal the cedar. 11 months old right now. What should I use? Oil Base or water based? What’s the difference? How many applications should I do? Live in Edmonton Alberta. Deck is on the south side of the house so is in full sunlight all day long. Hot in the summer, long cold winters with lots of snow.
Clean and brighen for prep. Try Restore A Deck Stains (water-based) or TWP 200 Series (oil-based) for the deck. Application and amount of coats vary on what stain brand you choose but most want one coat for new wood.
I finished my project a few weeks ago and am very happy with the results. Here are several pictures, some before, during and post project. The deck was originally completed with Sherwin Williams Super Deck oil based transparent (Natural). The contractor sanded too fine, likely resulting in the poor adhesion. To fix this I sanded back to bare wood, allowed to weather for 60 days, pressure washed, then conditioned with TWP 2 step deck brightener. Then stained with TWP 1101 oil based cedar tone, spraying on first coat, then used pad applicator to place second coat before first coat dried. The deck was allowed to dry for 8 days before stepping on it (not intentional, just happened to be away).
Please add the pics!
I thought I had with the comment but appears they were not accepted. Any limit on size or number of pictures?
3 MB per picture.
Testing pic
Here are some pictures, before, during, and after
Looks great!
I have had a cedar deck for approx 2 years. It turned a nice natural gray but some mold set in (you could see some uneven black areas) and the wood started to chip a little. We had someone clean the deck-they used Mold Armor product. The deck is now back to more yellowish color and is uneven. They are recommending Benjamin Moore Arborcoat semi-transparent stain. I do not see many natural gray options (although westcott navy and amherst gray looked ok-need to see it on the deck first). What do you recommend hearing this? Thanks
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP Semi-solid stains. BM is a poor product and has lots of bad reviews.
Hello,
I have sanded my 1 year old cedar deck back to bare wood. The initial finish was done too soon after install, resulting in mold under the Sherwin Williams super deck transparent stain. There has also been a lot of flaking where exposed to direct sunlight.
I sanded using 120 grit paper. Do I need to fine tune this with finer grit paper and if so what grit?
I am planning to clean with a mold killing product since mold has been present already however the sanding has removed almost all evidence of this. Do I need to use a wood brightner since im back to virgin wood? Any guidance on how soon to stain after sanding back to virgin wood?
Thank you
You sanded way too fine. Let it weather for 1-2 months and then clean and brighten for prep. You want the wood porous.
What is the suggested grit to use? Thanks for the feedback.
60-80 grit.
I’m going to use a cleaner/brightener but looking for recommendations on which product to use. After that I will stain with 2 coats TWP 101 using spray on then pad apply.
After the staining does the deck need to be sealed, or does the TWP 101 do all the sealing required?
Use the Gemini Restore Kit for prep for the TWP. Never top coat over a deck stain with a sealer.
Scott – my stain is now 7 months applied and there are small spots in random areas starting to show up lighter than the remaining deck – as if the stain didnt adhere well or I didnt apply second coat consistently. Regardless of the cause I am thinking of reapplying a new coat to the whole deck. I still have 2 or 3 gallons of the same TWP product. What is your recommendation on doing this? Can I just prep with light power wash and then reapply?
You should clean and brighen while pressure washing when applying a new coat of stain.
I am in Texas having a 12×25 cedar deck installed in November. The deck will be Fully Covered. Installer said only to wait 2-3 weeks to “dry out” before they will fully hand sand the entire deck with palm orbital, then stain using our selection. 1. Is sanding not recommended or should this be done before or after the weathering? 2. Is there a minimum temperature to apply the stain since we stay moderate in Texas but it can get to freezing. Ie if we get a moderate week in Dec or Jan is it ok to do it the? 3. Are we doing a lot of harm by only waiting a few weeks vs months to stain after installation? I guess we are all impatient to just get the job done and not letting the wood turn grey.
Thank You! Great website!!
New wood needs to weather for 3-12 months depending on the stain brand and be prepped. You should wait until Spring to do this. Sanding can reduce the penetration of the stain into the wood.
Can I put linseed oil on my newly built cedar deck for the winter and then possibly stain it next spring? I live in Saskatchewan.
No need and you will have to remove it anyhow when you want to stain it.
We are in central Indiana. We have a 3yo smooth cedar deck, almost 10k sf of decking total. Full sun about 3/4 of the day. We have alot of wood to cover so which would be the best/longest wearing for our situation? Also, due to the amount of work this is, we want something that will be easy to maintain (not needing to be completely stripped each time), even better if anything is able to be “spot maintenance” in traffic areas. Considering Defy (Hardwood for smooth cedar?) but not sure about water-based vs oil-based AC… Also, has anyone had experience using Earthpaint Rainforest Sealer? I searched this site but did not see it being mentioned anywhere.
Try the Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series for this. Both will be easily maintained by cleaning and recoating as needed. Never heard of the Earthpaint product.
I have a Western Red Cedar Deck that is about 15 years old. I stained it and it turned grey within a few months. It has been like that ever since. Now I want to run each board through a planer and reinstall it and stain or seal it. I don’t want it to go grey again. What stain should I use?
Any of these brands.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have 33 boards of rough sawn cedar 1×8 I’m going to put up as facia. What is the best clear cedar stain to use that shows the color of the cedar and lasts longest. Much thanks!
You must have a tinted stain as a clear sealer will gray in months. Try Restore-A-Deck in Natural or Armstrong Clark in Natural colors.
Many thanks guys and gals! Last Q. I’m thinking of putting smooth side out Of the 1×8 rough sawn cedar for the facia. Soo Sand with 60-80 grit, then 100 grit and dust off, wash, then use Armstrong Clark redwood tint transparent Oil .. will this suffice? Thanks again
Do not and finer that 80 grit.
If I am needing to have my deck redone due to a poor job and color error, is it okay to switch from the original cabot Australian timber oil to another brand, and what would you suggest? Something went wrong and deck is almost a bright yellow, along with an blotchy ceiling. We need to tone it down and shift it back to a natural or a light brown tone (and get ceiling even).Thanks so much.
As long as you remove the Cabot fully, you can switch. Try Armstrong Clark.
Thanks- last question- Can anything be done about the rough posts. I don’t think they can be sanded, but anyway to change the color?
You can strip it off on the posts. No matter what, it will stain darker there. Rough sawn is more porous.
I just installed two new 4′ x 8′ cedar sections to my dock. I have 4 other sections (also cedar) that are 4 years old which I never stained or sealed. The decking was dark gray and did not look at all. I power sprayed the old deck this past weekend and it looks a lot better, but nowhere near as good as the how the new deck looks. Should I wait 3 months and use a stripper/brightener on everything, then stain it all together?
Yes, wait but use a cleaner and brightener. Not a stripper.
Hello,
I too built a new cedar deck last spring and was also told to use Ready Seal clear stain on it, and to do so within the first few weeks. After applying this, deck had an oily/slick feel to it and turned gray within the first few months, so I cleaned it and reapplied the Ready Seal. Same thing again, oily feel and turned gray once fall hit.
After reading through this site now I have realized I did it all wrong. I have since scrubbed/cleaned the deck this week in hopes to prepare it to do it the correct way this time. I used Krub Kutter Cleaner to clean the deck. It has dried for a few days now and I see some fuzzies on the wood and the wood is a bright color.
My question is, has the wood been able to weather the appropriate time now even though I applied 2 coats of sealer to it last year? Also, should a stripper, cleaner, and brightener be used or is the preparation I have done with the Krud Kutter cleaner enough to apply new coat of stain/sealer? I live in KY and the deck is exposed to sunlight all day long.
Thank you for all of your information you have provided on this site! I wish I would have found this earlier.
You need to strip and brighten for prep, not clean. The RS needs to come off fully. You then want a penetrating semi-transparent stain.
Ready Seal is not a very good stain. Your issues happen a lot too many people: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ready-seal-wood-and-deck-stain-review-2017/
I’m planning to put cedar siding on my carport in Hawaii; we have limited placed to buy stain supplies. What would you recommend as the best semi transparent stain and wood cleaner that I could get at home depot?
Sorry but there are not decent deck products at HD, Lowes, or any big box stores. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-quality-at-lowes-or-home-depot/
didn’t think so, but figured I would check since no one ships to Hawaii either.
I have a 5 yr old cedar pergola that’s never been stained. I am looking for something easy to apply and last several years. Also, in the article you recommended timber oil, are referring to Cabots Australian Timber oil?
Cabot ATO is not a very good stain anymore since the formula changed and is not the same as the TimberOil Brand that we were referring to. For the top brands to use, see here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Try TWP Stains or Armstrong Clark.
Very helpful. Question, just installed a western cedar deck and it’s too late to stain if we’re going to wait 3 months. Meanwhile, it rained and the deck is very slippery when wet, what recommendations do you have for reducing slippage it’s the main entrance and we’re in a northern climate so it’s a deck that will also be shoveled.
Thank you.
You cannot do anything to reduce the new wood from being slippery.
Any recommendations on using some type of hardener for an Atlantic white cedar deck, the wood is soft and dents easily. Maybe shellac or eurathane?
No, do not do that and it will ruin your wood by peeling and attracting mildew.
It’s October and the weather will turn cold soon. Getting ready to install our cedar deck. Do we wait until Spring to stain and seal? We do not want the gray look but rather want the natural cedar look. If we wait it would be April-May before it is warm enough to apply stain.
Thanks for your help
Yes, wait until Spring to prep and stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
We had a pergola built last week out of Alaskan yellow cedar and we were going to stain this weekend but read that we should wait 3+ months. We live in Colorado. Is it ok to let it weather over the winter and wait till spring to stain? And should we use an oil base or water base stain? We’ve read conflicting information on both.
You can use either base as long as it is a high-quality stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Spring is okay to prep and stain.
I just got a new cedar deck installed. Contractors told me to seal before before they added fencing. Sealed with thompsons water seal. I wasnt aware of the mill glaze at the time. After the first rain a few days later it was leaving some brown water marks where water puddles were.Sanded it down to remove all of the sealant and since then I’ve been getting these black marks. I thought mildew at first but I think they may be rust spots since some of the areas that have less of it are in the shade most of the day. I used some steel wool to clean the sealant off of the sandpaper from my orbital sander since it was clogging up from the sealant so quickly. Sanding seems to clear it all but then the black marks appear after rain again (Although I havent tried avoiding using the steel wool to clean off the orbital sander yet). Any suggestions on what to do? I don’t mind sanding again and avoiding the steel wool if need be. I was hoping to stain it as well before winter sets in.
It is rust, a wood brightener will remove it. Never use steel wool on a deck, it always rusts like this. Best to leave this deck alone as you cannot stain it yet anyhow. Clean and brighten in Spring and then stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
It appears to absorb water okay since I sanded into the wood some. Should I still wait and let it weather over the winter as you mentioned above?
Yes.
I am assembling a pergola from rough sawn red cedar in a couple weeks. I am in SE Michigan. My wife would like to keep the new color rather than let it turn grey. What is your recommendation to maintain the like-new color? Should I still use a semi-transparent vs a transparent stain? Should I hold off staining as others have done?
It is not possible to maintain the current color. If you want UV protection then the stain must be tinted and that will enhance or alter the color based on the color you choose. Semi-transparent stains are best. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Thank you for such a quick response! Should I hold off on staining or is it ok to stain right away? My initial plan was to stain all the lumber before putting it together touching up where needed. Thanks again!
Rough wood can be stained right away.
I had a new large cedar deck replaced May 2019. I have not done one thing with it but need to do something. It has now grayed but I loved the original look when it was brand new. I want to try and restore that natural look while protecting it as much as possible. Live in Iowa, cold winters and hot humid summers. Thank you. P.S. 61 years old and wanting to do the work myself, is this feasible? How long do you need to make sure it’s not going to rain?please be specific on the products you suggest and color to keep it that natural look.
See here for more info on prep products needed and stains suggested: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
The stain must be tinted for UV protection from graying so you will need to add some color to it.
I have a new Alaska yellow cedar deck (with knots). The installer told me to wait three or four weeks before treating or staining it. I plan to use is semi-transparent honey colored tint. The decking is developing small black spots that look like mold. It is widespread across the deck, more dense in places. Should I use a deck cleaner/brightened before staining. Should that remove the black spots or will the stain cover/hide the spots? Thanks in advance for any pointers
Your installer is incorrect. You will need to wait about 3 months and then clean and brighten for prep. It will remove any mildew.
I made a big mistake, I stained my new white cedar deck right after it was installed. It’s very tacky. Is there anything I can do now?
Strip and or sand it off, brighten the wood, then let it properly weather.
what about older cider decks ?
Any of these top brands will work: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have a 5 year old white cedar deck (in Pennsylvania.) Twice treated with Armorcoat semi-transparent stain (perhaps improperly applied). Chronic problem with stain not penetrating and uneven build-up leading to flaking and peeling. Deck recently sanded down to bare wood (50 grit sanding belts). What is recommended procedure for re- treatment. What product will penetrate best and last longest.
Clean and brighten for final prep. Stain with a penetrating stain such as these: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi, I have 5 year old white cedar deck in northern MI, I have stained twice with Armstrong. The original stain was applied by the person that built the deck – big mistake. The deck has been stain free for almost two years. I will clean and brighten this week with restore a deck 1 and 2 and stain in 2 weeks, weather permitting. I am thinking of using Sikkens Proluxe DEK. My log siding was stained with a Sikkens products 4 year ago and stills looks like it was stained yesterday. What is your opinion of the Sikkens product compared with TWP or Armstrong.
The DEK will peel on your deck. Do not use it.
Thanks for the fast response. What about the Sikkens (PPG) SRK? If not, then should I lean toward the TWP 1500?
TWP is much better.
I stained a new cedar after following manufacture s direction 1winter it pealed badly I have waited two winters and i am now sanding to bare wood any further steps that I should the deck is 800 sq ft What stain would you recommend
TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark stains.
2 seasons ago I had a new Cedar deck installed. I waited a few months and then used deck cleaner, then
Woodrich Deck Brightener & Neutralizer and then Woodrich Timber Oil. After the winter the deck look horrible. The leaves that had fallen on the deck left dark leaf imprints. I used these same products a second time and in using the cleaner with a brush everything looked good again but when brushing the brush would “clog” with a dark, pasty, substance literally every board foot of cleaning. After all was done I applied stain again.
Now with the new warmer weather the deck looks horrible. There are very light/white streaks over most of the deck. I tried a small sample area and the cleaner works great but again, the brush is clogging with this same dark, pasty substance. Before I clean the entire deck again I’m looking for suggestions as to what is causing the problem and what the “stuff” is that I am brushing off with the cleaner. Also would like a suggestion as to what to apply once cleaned again.
I am in NY, outside of Manhattan. There are no trees that are over the deck but the oak leaves do accumulate.
Thanks.
That is wood fibers. Use a pressure washer instead of a scrub brush. Stain with TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark stains.
Just sanded all the up right cedar posts and rails.
Can this be stained now or should we wait?
What is the best oil based stain to use?
We are in Canada
Wait a month and then clean and brighten woof for final prep. Try TWP 200 series or Armstrong Clark.
We are having our current deck replaced with cedar decking. We have a lower deck and a upper deck, the upper deck is around our pool. I have been trying to see when and what type of sealant to use either oil or waterbased? Everything I have read said the an oil sealer is the best and the most natural to preserve the natural beauty of the cedar.
With all of that being said we have also read that you should wait anywhere from 2 weeks to 1 year??? The guys that are installing it said the cedar is dry and they will be giving it a light sand when they are done. So we were wondering if we can put a sealer on when they are done or should we wait? Since it is around the pool on the upper deck I am not sure what to do.
Thank you in advance,
Marilyn
You have to weather and prep. 3+ months. Do not seal it now.
Thank you … what about the sealer? do you suggest the oil? if so what brand do you recommend.
Thank You
You need a deck stain. Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
When you say Timber Oil, are yiu referring to Cabots Australian timber oil?
My problem is that i purchased that but they don’t make a Clear version, only Natural and i DON’T want to change the color of the weod. Natural WR cedar is beautiful just the way it is and does not need added color!!!
My deck, stairs, railings, fence and trellis are a combination of 1) natural cedar, 2) cedar- toned, pressure treated southern pine, and 3) regular pt pine.
What do you recommend for sealing?
Thank you.
Marc in Maryland
No, not Cabot. Woodrich Timber Oil.
It is not possible for you to maintain your wood color with a clear coating. Clear coating = zero UV protection from graying and your wood will gray in months. You must use a tinted stain for UV protection.
These are the best-tinted stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
[New Rough Sawn Cedar Wrapped Posts]
Hello, my wife and I have found this article and questions/comments very helpful. I need clarification on a few things.
Do I need to CLEAN and BRIGHTEN my new rough sawn cedar wrapped posts before staining? Or can I simply stain it now (spring time)?
We want the natural color of cedar as possible and understand the need for UV protection. We’ll be trying samples of your recommended Armstrong and TWP products with some tint.
What should I expect for maintenance and reapplying the stain in Pacific NW weather?
Thank you!
No need to prep the rough sawn if the wood is clean and dry. Redo every few years.
We have a 95 x 12 foot red cedar deck that is almost 10 years old. It was originally stained with a cedar colored Behr deck stain. About 4 years ago it was stripped, brightened and stained with a product called TWP, and only held up for 2 years, then we couldn’t find that product in Fairbanks, Alaska, so we applied Superdeck without stripping. It is already wearing off. Could you make a recommendation on what action to take next. We are planning to strip, brighten and re-stain, but are unsure on what products to use and how long to wait between steps.
Thanks for any advice you can offer.
You will have to strip and brighten for prep. As for stain to use, use TWP again if you can find it. Not sure what you can find there locally that is any good.
Hi, I just purchased and installed a 6ft cedar fence (Home Depot). It has a nice light, clean look. I want to protect it but I am hesitant because I do not want to compromise the light look. It appears that using an oil based semi-transparent stain is the best option for protecting the cedar. However, all these stains appear to leave the cedar with a red looking finish, even when the natural color is selected. Perhaps I am better suited to just apply a sealer, but also have reservations about using only a sealer as I have been told its more likely to gray if just a sealer is used. Any suggestions in terms of what option is best to preserve the natural look while properly treating the cedar? If so, which products are best in each category? Final question, How long should I wait before applying either the stain or sealer? The fence has been up for 1 week. Thank you, Stay Healthy!
It is not possible to preserve the natural color as that means you would a clear sealer and a clear sealer will not offer UV protection from graying. It must be tinted for UV protection. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I used Thompson’s Clear on my year old cedar split fence. It has not yet grayed. The color really popped. It is a sealer and has UV protection. So far very pleased. Now I need to find a stain to match it on a grayed older portion.
I live on Long Island and have a vaulted roof over my deck. The ceiling is clear cedar tongue and groove which is about 6 years old. I pressure washed it about 3 years ago at half throttle. It did a very good job and the wood looked great after it dried. I sealed it with a product that I bought on line, but now it’s time to do it again. I will try one of your suggestions, but I’m wondering which one of these products (semi transparent) will adhere the best as it is a very messy job with the work area above your head. Also, the ceiling gets no sun at anytime of the day all year long, so I’m looking for a product that will last a bit longer. I don’t remember what I used last time, but it was like water. Thanks
Try one Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series.
Ok, thank you.
Do all the staining instructions applied to white cedar also
Yes.
I replaced my deck last summer with new Red Cedar decking from Menards. Last fall I went to Menards and ask them what was best to protect it, and was lead to Thompsons water seal.
We did not want to cover the deck grain, so we were lead what we thought was what we needed.
Note, deck was dry, and we were never told that anything was needed to do. Before applying the sealer. We applied the sealer with brush and roller with good coverage, and all looked ok.
When the sealer was cured, we noticed with the morning dew, and rain the water would puddle up on the wood, and it made it very slippery. Could hardly walk on it without slipping/Falling!!
Over the weeks, we also noticed the sealer applied started to come loose, and peel off.
Now I have have new red cedar deck that looks like crapp! After winter (live in Wisconsin) I see a lot of the sealer has come off.
Need someone to tell me how, and what to use to first of all remove all the sealer still on the wood. Also there are some dark spots I need to remove. What cleaner for that as well?
How/what to use to treat, send hopefully bring it back to its original condition.
Best sealer and way to seal it, without covering up the grain.
If you sell the products needed, please send me items and price to order as needed.
Or send me item info so I can purchase from local
Deck size ?
Need to clean and seal 26 X 16 feet long red cedar deck board.
Know this for sure as I replaced every one!!
Send me your email, and I can send pictures of my nightmare!!
Look forward to your response and working with you.
Terry Schwefel
-You can post pictures here on this comment site.
-We do not sell products from this website.
-We do not email people directly. All help is through the website.
Thanks
Hi I have a cedar deck and I live in Long Island New York. Which is the best stain that I should use? Carpenter recommended Arborcoat but it didn’t get good reviews
Use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Hi I built a new cedar deck last fall and intended to stain this past spring or summer after giving the cedar a chance to weather, but never was able to get around to it. I live in Portland OR and we are having a rare week long dry period, so I decided to stain now as winter is approaching. (Before finding your website and realizing I probably shouldn’t have sanded) I cleaned the deck with the Olympic deck cleaner product and then sanded the deck (last pass was 80 grit). I was going to apply the stain this morning but after reading this article and your replies to other comments, I am wondering if maybe I should wait until spring (or maybe summer as spring is rather wet and unpredictable around here). What’s your recommendation for how I proceed from here? No product has been applied. Home Depot guy recommended using an Olympic product (I think it was elite or maximum) that he said could be applied even if wood is wet (which it sort of is from the morning fog).
Wait until Spring and prep again. Stay away from any stains from HD or Lowes. Look at one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Our painter recommended that to clean the greying and dirt of a new cedar deck (installed in July) we should power wash it. We let him do this. The deck is clean but it looks uneven and splotchy. Was this a mistake? If we use a transparent stain will we enhance these imperfections? Should we sand the deck before staining?
Post a picture and how does it look when wet with water?
Do I need to weather rough sawn cedar if it passes an absorption test?
No need to weather new rough sawn wood if clean and dry.
Hello from Ontario. I’m having a small deck built at the moment with two posts and a pergola of cedar and with winter approaching should I get it stained now or wait till spring. Than you .
Spring.
Hello! We are in Chicago and just built a deck and 2 fences using cedar. I see you recommend waiting until spring to stain. Will it turn grey over the winter? Temperatures in the high 50s now but turning colder soon. Id had to rush to stain now if not necessary, but we don’t want a grey deck/fences. Any advice would be appreciated.
Yes it will gray but that is okay and expected. The prep in the Spring will remove that.
Thank you so much! I didn’t realize you could remove the grey and restore it to the “new cedar” look ! Do you recommend waiting until next summer to stain / seal to let the wood cure? I presume the same for the cedar fence ?
I see that the TWP 200 that you recommend has a temp range of 45-95 F, so we could still stain / seal the deck this year using this product. However, the deck / fences are only about a month old. Do you still recommend waiting 7-12 months to stain/seal ?
Best to wait.
Spring or Summer for the deck and fence.
I have new western cedar from a saw mill. I’m going to wrap the posts on my porch and would like to keep as much of the original color and look as possible. What is the best product to use
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
This site is very informative, thank you! We just had a cedar gazebo built w/ a shingles roof. Posts are rough sawn, ceiling smooth tongue and groove. We are in Michigan and heading into winter. My lack of decision on a stain as well as lots of wet weather have prevented staining this far. Are we ok to wait until spring? Can you recommend a stain brand color that will achieve a medium brown/gray look with no yellow/red/orange tones? I have sampled a few Olympic Elite colors with no luck. I love the look of the pillars someone posted in a pic in the comments which you said were untreated.
Have you heard of the Lifetime Wood Treatment product? It is supposed to achieve a natural patina quickly while protecting the wood for a lifetime. Too good to be true??
Thanks!
You can wait for Spring. There are not any brown/gray colors but you can get a brown color. Try Rustic Brown by Armstrong or Darl Oak by TWP. Another option would be Dark Walnut in the Restore A Deck Stains. Lifetime is a gimmick.
Thank you! Will try those.
I was able to get some samples of the colors you mentioned as well as a few colors of the Defy. I actually like one of the Defy colors best (butternut). What is the difference between the defy extreme and the extreme 40? Which should I use? If I want to keep the ceiling of the gazebo natural cedar color, (no stain) would you recommend the extreme clear? Is the water based defy less effective than an oil based stain? I like that defy seems less shiny that the oil ones I tested also. Thanks!
Extreme 40 is a low VOC version for 4 counties of the LA area. You can use the Clear for the ceiling. The Defy water-based is just as effective as an oil-based.
My contractor sealed my new 20’x30’ cedar deck while the wood was saturated. There had been a lot of rain prior to him sealing it, and he said he had “blown” some water off from around he posts the day he applied it. Needless to say it did not cure(?). It was blotchy, sticky, and shiny. His solution was to power wash the product off (just did this yesterday), wait until it dries, then apply the sealer again. I am concerned this has damaged the wood and/or really messed it up. He seems like he is not willing to put the work into fixing the problem properly … or maybe he his and I am freaking out for no reason. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Best to remove it fully and then follow the directions for the stain/sealer he is using when it comes to new wood. Most say to let the new wood weather and then prep.
Thanks! That’s what I thought. In looking at it more this morning, the power washing cause the wood to become furry (if that makes sense). Has he ruined the new cedar?
No.
Thank you! That’s what I thought. My fear is that the power washing has caused the new cedar to become furry (if that makes sense). Has he ruined the wood?
He is saying he is going to sand it lightly then reseal it after it drys. No weathering time was allowed before the first application of Wolman oil based clear sealer. I am concerned we just keep going from bad to worst.
Hi. I have to refinish a cedar deck that’s more than two years old. The old stain is almost completely worn off. I will sand to prep for staining. Should I pressure wash first? For older cedar, would you still recommend the two products mentioned in your article? Thanks!
Use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener for prep. Sanding is not suggested for prep as it reduces stain penetration. Try TWP or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thanks. That’s very useful. I should have mentioned that I live in Montreal, Canada so we get very cold winters, snow and ice. After my first post, I was reading your review of Restore-a-Deck Stain. Would you recommend it in this situation?
That would work as well.
Hi again. I have been reading up on the cleaners and brighteners. If possible, I’d like to avoid using these products because of the chemicals. Is there an effective approach to preparing for staining without the cleaner and brightener? Thanks for your help.
No, not really. Most cleaners are eco-safe.
I’m planning to replace the decking at my mountain cabin next spring after snow melt using western red cedar. If I purchase the decking 3 or 4 months in advance can it “weather” in my shop if stacked using spacers between each layer for airflow?
No, it has to be exposed to natural weather outside after being built.
i am purchasing western cedar tongue and groove siding for my beach home. The company is willing to stain the cedar on all six sides. I have a few question. I was reading some of these comments it was mentioned that the cedar should be exposed to the elements for 3 months before staining. I have to put it up before winter sets in. what should i do?
Also I can not have any product that will peel like paint. Should i use oil base or water? Is there a product that should be used before staining and after staining? The siding in front of my house is exposed to sun all day and salt air . I love the N.Y.C. look of modern cedar added to some of the buildings as accent. I want the rows of cedar to take on its different colors of wood.
Please help
Do not pre-stain. Install, weather, prep, and stain the exposed wood. Look at TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark wood stains. You cannot pretreat or coat anything on top of a stain.
I understand that I need to let the front of wood season first and then prep and stain. Before the siding is put up, does the back and sides of the cedar siding need something to protect the wood from mold and wetness.
Only exposed wood needs to be prepped and stained.
I’ve just put together a raw white cedar Adirondack chair from a kit bought online.
I’d like to protect the wood but I’d rather not paint because I like the natural wood, but I’d like to prevent the graying of the wood. Is there a way I can stain the wood with a light stain that will protect against graying? (I understand that a clear stain will not protect against graying, but I’m hoping that I keep the color lighter).
No, you cannot stain first and then coat over. Use a penetrating tinted stain instead: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I have a fishing cottage in Quebec about 300 km north of Quebec city. Weather is very harsh for the wood. I will built a new cedar deck but it is north oriented and it has not a lot of sunshine period during the day. Maybe 4 hours in the morning. The trout lake is about 50 feet in front of my cottage and it is very productive . I want to use a protective coating that will preserve the environnement and the natural color of my cedar against UV. I’ am looking for a clear protective. During the winter , snow will be about 6 feet over the deck, Temperature will go minus 30 fahrenheit. What do you recommend ? Is Flaxseed a good protective ? I know it is not harmfull for the environment but I don’ t know what degree of protection it gives against UV .
Clear with no tint means zero UV protection. It must be tinted f you want to prevent graying. Flaxseed is useless and will not work or help the wood. You need a stain. Try TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark.
We recently put on a new deck with treated cedar wood. Do you still recommend waiting up to around three months before putting on an oil stain? I just wanted to clarify if there might be a difference between allowing the proper time for the cedar to weather depending on if it was already pretreated or not. The wood that we bought has been treated. Thank you for your help!
Also wanted to mention I’m in Colorado, up in the moutains. Not sure if that makes a difference in timeframe of weathering process.
Yes you have to wait and prep.
Ok…thank you. That would put us into late fall in the Colorado weather to put the oil stain on. Just want to make sure I’m not going to do any damage in the meantime.
I used Armstrong Clark after following all your instructions. It was melted off by snails (slugs?) — they left bizarre patterns all over where their slime ate through the stain and eventually parts of the deck were stripped. After the first time this happened we pressure washed and re-stained. It happened again! Now I need to have the whole deck sanded and start over. Several people have recommended Pennefin (not sure of the spelling…) but I feel so burned at this point, not sure what to do. It costs a fortune each time to get the deck done. Thoughts?
—no longer an Armstrong fan
Never heard of snails/slugs eating away a deck stain. Very strange. I doubt it is related to the AC but your environment. Or possibly oils in the stains is food fro them. Maybe stay away from oil-based stains and go to a water-based stain like Defy Extreme or Restore A Deck Stains.
Penofin discolors and turns your deck dark brown or black. It is also oil-based: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/penofin-blue-label-wood-deck-stain-review/
use copper pennies on the ground
Hi – I am having a new select tight knot cedar deck being installed now. In terms of stain, I am looking at either Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500. In terms of when to apply the stain, is it recommended to wait a period of time after installation before applying the stain ? Given that I am in New York and if that period of time is 2-3 months, which puts it out to fall, does it makes sense to apply it then or in the spring ? What is the downsize of applying the stain right after installation ?
Thanks,
Marty
It will not take if you do it now. Has to weather for 3+ months and be prepped. We would wait until Spring.
ok – thanks. Would you apply any product to prevent any damage over the winter ?
No, leave it bare. It will be fine with one Winter.
ok – just confirming that even if it is not pressure treated, we should wait until spring to apply the stain ? thanks, again
Yes, correct.
place cooper pennies or copper sulfate i do believe thats what its called. slugs hate copper
Hi There~
My tight knot Cedar Deck is a year old… I live in Portland Oregon. It has had a Stain from Miller Paint called “STORM” i was very disappointed in this Stain as it flaked off … I was unaware of “Mill Glaze”. So last Summer with help from the STORM Rep I Striped and Brightened the Deck …let it dry and re stained it again with the STORM Stain. Once again it flaked off especially over the knotty areas. I am now looking for a New Product. I will once again Stripe and Brighten. My Questions are;
1. Should I allow deck to fully dry out before Staining?
2. Should I use one of the Stains you mentioned in your article above – Armstrong Clark Wood Stain or a Timber Oil Brand?? What is best for Tight Knot Cedar?
1. Yes.
2. Look at Armstrong Clark or TWP Stains.
Thanks much appreciate your site!
Don’t like the stain can it be removed
Depends on the brand and type of stain you have? Also, a picture would help.
I am just putting in a small red cedar deck. The wood was rough and well seasoned and I ran the decking through a plainer to create a smooth surface and restore the grain. I want to stain with a darker tint to avoid the greying and keep it looking good longer. Any suggestions?
After the weathering and prep (you cannot stain it like it is), try Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown.
Thanks. I’ll look for it.
I have cedar wrapped columns on my front porch that are 8 years old and have never had any product on them. I just pressure washed them today and they have that pretty red color again. From reading here I think I’m needing a semi transparent stain if I want to keep the most natural color? Also do I need to brighten it first?
Thx!
Brighten the wood and try a Natural tinted stain. Look at Restore A Deck or Armstrong Clark.
Thx!!!
We have just had a cedar deck installed and it was coated with a Cloverdale oil based stain. This is our deck that is two weeks old and we don’t know what to do. I have been told that it is iron shavings but even with sanding it is still visible we don’t know if we should sand it or what to do.
Strip and brighten the wood with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
It is either mildew or rust from metal. If mildew, the Stripper will remove it. If rust, the Brightener will help.
Thank you for your fast reply. After I use your kit should I leave the deck for 3+ months before applying a stain to it? And which stain would work better for cedar?
We live in a climate similar to Seattle.
No need to wait. Stain after you are done prepping. Try TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
I’ve stripped, pressure washed, deck washed (bleached), and sanded our large, 9 year old, red cedar deck and pergola. What a chore! Now I’m baulking at the stain I’ve bought, whether I should use another product, or just leave it naked. I purchased CIL Canadian Wood Oil. Any experience with this product?
No, we have never used it.
We have a 1 year old cedar deck. Used the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and whitener. Now it looks all bleached out without any of the natural color. Only has good color when it is wet.
Should proceed with staining or what?
We also want a stain that has good cedar color, but the good quality stains recommended all appear to be either overly yellow or overly red. Finding it hard to find something in between.
Yes, you can stain. Try a “natural” tinted stain. Armstrong Clark makes a nice color in their Natural.
I used restore a deck products and really had a bad experience all the way around….now 7 months later I am redoing it all….with better product
Hello
I’m Biulding a new house in central Canada it’s a timber frame home. And we are going to use cedar siding as I’m going to mill it may self. The wood will be rough cut board and batten style siding. The wood is already seasoned and able to be put on. I want the best stain possible for this as I want it to last. I don’t wana stain ever couple of years so I’d rather spend the money on the best product. What do you suggest ? I’m open to anything.
We are not sure if would should use a wood stain to get the natural wood look, or stain it like dark charcoal something like that. What’s best to use in both applications
Look at Armstrong Clark wood stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/tag/armstrong-clark-deck-stains/
Darker colors will give longer UV protection. Just one coat is needed.
How does one make good blue staining in 10 year old weathered cedar cladding
You would have to get that custom tinted to be blue.
We are having our deck replaced using beautiful, clear white cedar. We live in the SF Bay Area. The contractor says to do nothing and let it just weather naturally. However, we have dogs and young grandchildren, as well as tons of leaves falling onto the deck. As a result, I feel that we really should do something to protect the wood. Questions: how long to wait before putting anything on the deck and what is recommended as a stain/sealant? Thanks
We recommend you wait 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. (Always follow the stain brand’s directions, though). After the weathering, all new cedar wood should be cleaned and brightened for the prep. This will remove any oxidation and mill glaze.
Use a penetrating stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Our cedar deck was built end summer last year. We let it season and are now ready to stain. We prefer natural look of wood, not color. We plan on cleaning first. Do I need to clean rough pieces on vertical rail sections? Do we need to brighten if deck did not darken over last 10 months? Do I also do treated wood support system (walk out deck) or leave it as is? Product recommendation same as posted for new cedar deck?
Clear with no color = no UV protection from graying. It must be tinted if you do not want the wood to gray in a matter of months. You will need to clean and brighten for prep. No need to stain the framing. Prep with Restore A Deck Kits and stain with the RAD semi-transparent stain or Armstrong Clark.
Would Valspar “One Coat exterior Sealer – Clear” be a good option for a eastern red cedar fence?
Nope. Junk. Use one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I built a céder deck last summer and left it a year to condition. I just pressure washed it to remove all the dirt from the winter. Do I need to sand it down before I seal it? If yes what grit?
No need to sand.
What about a new cedar screened porch attached to a new cedar deck, do we apply the same steps to the above — wait 3 months, clean and brighten, let dry, and stain? Also, is there a brand for clean and brighten you recommend?
Thank you!!!
Yes, wait and prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
What about staining and sealing a new screened porch? Would we apply the same steps from above – wait 3 months, clean and brighten, let dry and stain? We live in MN so the winters will be tough on the wood.
Thank you!
Yes, wait and prep.
I need some advice on staining/sealing our new red cedar outdoor furniture! Two gliders and a side table will arrive without sealer in two weeks! I want to apply a white wash look to better go with our new cedar deck which is not red cedar! Can you help or direct me? Would you use deck stain, pickling, or paint? Researching is confusing!
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
You cannot whitewash exterior wood. Try just a clear sealer and the wood will gray naturally.
We are needing to stain our home. It was stained about 5 years ago using Flood CWF-UV. Our house is western red cedar and has black where the porch doesn’t cover it. What would u recommend to get rid of the black and to stain our home with.
We have cedar decking with knots and last year was our first year with it. We left it untreated over the Winter and then power washed it, that seemed to fuzzy wood after. Then we sanded the deck and put Benjamin Moore Arbour coat translucent on it. That made it start to peel and fade away. After another Winter, we are sanding again and want to make sure we do this right so every year this doesn’t happen. Any ideas what we can use. We live in Massachusetts with harsh Winters and lots of pine trees . Would Thompson timber stain be the best for it??
Use a penetrating stain like TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark. Thompsons is a poor product.
I have similar situation. Just sanded my deck after stripping and power washing several times (which did not totally remove the previous failed stain and sealer all in one, but after sanding appears to have restored back to the natural cedar wood).
My question is: Do I need to use a deck cleaner and deck whitener after sanding? Also previously mentioned was waiting several months for new decks to cure, although my deck is not new, it is freshly sanded, do I need to wait for a couple months?
Yes. Clean and brighten for final prep. You can then stain.
Thank you so much for your help! After reading the reviews and answers to other peoples questions, it seems I have to buy one of the staining products online as I can’t seem to find any of the recommended stains at a local store. I live in sunny Southern California and my cedar deck will mostly have full sun throughout the day, including small dogs.
1) My wife would like to try and keep as natural a cedar look as possible without the wood graying out. What a good or correct stain product be Wood Ridge Timber Oil or TWP 1500? What would you recommend?
2) When applying the stain, do I need to wipe off with a rag after application. Meaning apply and wipe, apply and wipe as I progress down each deck plank?
1. TWP 1500 in Honeytone
2. No need for that.
Thank you so much for your help again. I have ordered the TWP 1500 in honey (not available for shipment to California on Amazon but apparently will ship from TWP’s website and also less expensive).
What are your thoughts on cleaning my deck with TSP and brightening with Olympic brand? I already have these products in my garage and would prefer not to buy or order any more products online. The reviews tend to be more about stains and less about cleaning and brightening products.
TSP does not do much and Olympic is bleach based. We are not fans of that.
We have seasoned red cedar top rails on our deck. I followed the stain directions for red cedar and stained the railings. But every season I have to touch up the railings with more stain. Is this normal or is there something I can do to lessen the touch ups? Thank you!
This would depend on the brand and type of stain you are using?
We are staining a new cedar dock. If we wait 3 months this will be done over the water. I am assuming we don’t want the cleaner and brightner in the water. Can we stain it before assembly and not wait the 3 months?
Nope. Has to weather and be prepped.
We have a cedar deck built in 1995 in Nebraska. We made a mistake a few years ago with a reddish stain. Power washed it and finally got the stain off. It appears yellow in color now. We just want a clear protector, etc. What do you recommend?
Clear with no tint will not provide UV protection. Best to use a semi-transparent stain like TWP 100 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Do you allow to dry between cleaning, brightening and staining?
No between cleaning and brightening. As for staining, that depends on the brand but typically yes.
My cedar deck was installed 5 yrs ago, I used Penafin brand and every year it gets uglier. I pressure wash every spring before application but it doesn’t help much. So, I need a cleaner restorer and a new stain to use.
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and brightener to remove the Penofin and restore the color. Stain with TWP stains or Restore A Deck Wood stain.
Penofin has issues with turning dark brown or black in color.
We have just purchased 900 square feet of rough sawn white cedar for deck.. we are replacing past deck. We struggled with stain on old deck.. no stain will guarantee on white cedar! We ended up not protecting at all. What do you recommend.. northern Ontario winters!
After the weathering of 3-4 months and prep, try TWP 200 Series.
I have a newly built deck made from kiln dried cedar. The foundation is green board. I am wondering if it can be stained right away or should I wait? Do I need to use a strong cleaner? Also I was going to put a inflatable hot tub on it. It was built to support the weight but could I wait to stain the deck or is it crucial I put some stain under the tub. I live in Michigan and I will need to take tub down once the winter arrives. It would be cool if just to wait and stain it in the fall but I also want to take very good care of the deck.
Thanks
See this about kiln dried wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-deck/
No need to stain under the tub if it is staying in the same place.
My question is about vertical cedar columns on my new house. I waited about 4 months before I applied 4 coats of polyurethane. They looked magnificent for about 1 month and then the southern exposed sides turned white. They look like plastic now. I expect to have to sand all of the poly off but what do you suggest I use to keep a natural color?
You cannot use a poly on outside wood. You need a penetrating stain semi-transparent stain. Look at Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Wood Stain.
Hi there from London England
I would really appreciate some advice on our deck (pictures attached)
It’s cedar and was built 3 years ago. I’m never sure if it was sealed at the time but we have power cleaned it frequently.
It feels like we’ve probably stripped most of the colour from it.
I wondered if I should be both sealing it and staining it? – and if so would you advise any colour to try and restore the original cedar.
Pictures attached
Huge thanks in advance!!
You will need to clean again. Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing. Stain with a penetrating semi-transparent wood stain. No need to seal after.
THANKS VERY MUCH!
Do you think I should give it a quick sand before applying the stain?
Thanks again
No need to sand.
Installed a cumaru deck about 3 months ago. I have the finish work ongoing right now. Using Ipe Oil on the decking (it looks fabulous). The railings are cedar, and the post caps are mahogany (left from a previous deck). What is the best stain (brand, type and color) to use for a complementary stain color? I know it’s impossible to “match’ different woods, but would like a stain color that is close. Also, I’ve seen recommendations for transparent and semi-transparent stain for railings. What is your recommendation and why? After staining, should any kind of finish protection be applied? Thank you!
Try Armstrong Clark in Chestnut or Natural Oak colors. Semi-transparent will offer longer UV protection.
1) I can’t find a local dealer for AC in Nashville. I have located TWP which seems to also be a good choice for cedar. Do you have a color recommendation for TWP on cedar posts and railings to coordinate with Cumaru decking coated with IPE oil?
2) Weather prediction was 40% chance of light rain 24 hours after the top level deck was oiled. Instead, it POURED rain about 15 hours later for about 5 hours. I think all the rain may have prematurely “aged” the finish. See pictures (hard to get good pic of large area in bright sun). Should I a) leave as is and just plan to re-coat in 6 months or so OR b) wash and re-oil without sanding OR
c) wash, sand and re-coat now?
3) With Ipe oil, can you touch up or does each re-coating require wash, light sand and oil?
Thank you for your help!
1. Maybe Rustic color.
2. Leave as is for now.
3. You always have to prep when recoating. Use a deck cleaner.
What would you advise using to get this color on our cedar columns? I want to try and take the red tint out but don’t want they grey either.
There is not a stain on those wood columns in the pictures. No stain means it will gray naturally in a matter of months. You cannot achieve that look and have UV protection. Adding a semi-transparent stain will achieve UV protection but will alter or enhance the color based on the tint you choose.
We just put on a new deck 5/4″ cedar (untreated). I live in western wa. All the articles i read said to wait 3-4 months before sealing, but coming into the winter this makes me nervous. Should we wait until Spring to seal or stain?
Yes, you should wait until Spring.
Thanks
Hello, I have boxed in laminated support beams in my finished basement with rough sawn red cedar. We control the humidity and it receives no direct sunlight. I would like to maintain its natural bright color and texture. Is there a product you would recommend that we should apply or should I not treat it at all? Any advice would be helpful.
You want an interior coating, it is not the same as an exterior stain.
Where can I buy Timber Oil Brand?
Check with online websites.
I live in Seattle and just installed a new tight knot cedar deck. I have read so many opinions about treatment and stain and none of them seem to agree. What products do you recommend to clean and treat the deck. Should I clean it and then wait a few months to treat? Help please!!!
See this bout new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you, this is very helpful.
I also see that you have several product you recommend on the web site. I was wondering if there was a product that worked best in our wet Seattle weather taking into the account the tight knot cedar I used on the deck?
TWP 100 Series or Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Thank you so much!!!!
I have a cedar swing about 6 years old. It sits in a corner of our yard where it’s covered by trees and doesn’t get much sun light. It turned green with mold or whatever. I cleaned it with a water bleach solution. Now it looks almost new again. How do I protect it from turning green again? Thank you.
Try the Defy Extreme Stain or Defy Extreme Clear.
I got some ‘bbq’ grease splashed on my bare cedar deck wood and am now getting ready to stain it. Is there a special way I have to clean those spots or do I just use the cleaner with sodium percarbonate in it?
Grease will not come out with a deck cleaner if it is deep into the wood grain. Nothing we know of will get it out besides sanding.
Hello! I am currently having a red cedar deck built. It will get a lot of direct sun exposure, and will be subjected to a lot of snow and very cold temps. Unfortunately we only get about 3-4 months of really good weather a year, and I am quickly running out of time for cleaning/staining, before we start to get into the cold wet weather. After reviews, I will be going with either an Armstrong Clark stain, or a Defy stain. Just wondering if you have a recommendation on which brand, or a particular line of their stains, might be best given my time constraints and the deck’s exposure, or if it really matters. The wood will have been dried before install, so should be a low enough moisture content to stain right away, or at least not long after.
Hello,
Try the Armstrong Clark.
In this article you say stain right away for cedar, but then in all the comments you say wait months. Which is correct?
Depends on the stain brand you choose and what they suggest.