This post was updated on April 27, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2026
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain?
Proper deck preparation is the most important step when it comes to staining exterior wood. From my experience restoring decks since 1993, most stain failures are caused by poor prep—not the stain itself.
If the wood is not cleaned, stripped (if needed), and brightened correctly, the stain will not penetrate properly and will fail much sooner than it should.
This guide will help you determine whether your deck needs to be cleaned, stripped, or sanded—and how to prep it correctly before staining.
Proper prep is critical, but choosing the best deck stain afterward is what determines long-term performance.
Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
🔹 Step 1: Determine Your Deck Condition
Before starting, you need to identify your deck’s current condition. This will determine the proper prep method.
Common Deck Conditions:
- New Wood – Needs weathering and light prep
- Grayed or weathered wood – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Previously stained wood (good condition) – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Failing or peeling stain – Requires stripping or sanding
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Step 2: Cleaning the Deck
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
🔹 How To Deck Cleaning Tips
- Use a quality wood deck cleaner
- Apply evenly and allow proper dwell time
- Pressure wash for heavily soiled areas
- Rinse thoroughly
Cleaning alone is not enough—you must follow with a brightener.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
👉 Deck Cleaning Tips
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 3: Brightening the Wood
Brightening is a critical step that many homeowners skip.
- Restores natural wood color
- Neutralizes the wood after cleaning
- Opens the pores for better stain penetration
- Helps ensure even stain color
Skipping this step can lead to blotchy or uneven results.
👉 Deck Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
🔹 Step 4: Stripping the Deck (When Needed)
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a varnish-like shine cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure-washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
🔹 You should strip your deck if:
- Stripping is required when old coatings are preventing proper absorption
- The old stain is peeling or uneven
- The coating is a solid or heavy film
- You are changing stain brands or the type of stain
- Removes old coatings for better penetration
- May require multiple applications
- Must be followed by brightening
👉 How to Strip a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
🔹 Step 5: Sanding (When Necessary)
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
Sanding is sometimes needed, but should not be your first option.
- Use when wood is rough, splintered, or heavily coated
- Helps smooth the surface if it’s very rough
Important: Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration. never sand finer than 60-80 grit.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 6: Dry Time Before Staining
After prep, the wood must dry completely unless using the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
- Allow 24–48 hours depending on weather
- Wood should feel dry to the touch
- Moisture content should be low
Staining damp wood is one of the most common causes of failure.
🔹 Recommended Deck Prep Products
Using the right products at each stage will make a huge difference in your final results.
For Cleaning and Brightening:
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System (top choice for prep)
For Stripping (if needed):
- Restore-A-Deck deck stain strippers (depending on coating type)
For Staining:
- Penetrating oil-based stains (TWP, Armstrong Clark)
- Water-based stains (Restore-A-Deck)
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Common Deck Prep Mistakes
From my experience, these are the most common mistakes:
- Skipping the brightener step
- Not removing old coatings fully
- Over-sanding with too fine a grit
- Not allowing enough dry time
Avoiding these mistakes will significantly improve your results.
🔹 Final Thoughts on Deck Prep
Proper deck prep is the foundation of any successful staining project. No matter how good the stain is, it will not perform correctly without proper preparation.
From my hands-on experience, taking the time to clean, strip (if needed), and brighten your deck correctly will result in a better-looking finish that lasts longer and requires less maintenance.
If you follow these steps, your stain will perform the way it should, and your deck will be much easier to maintain over time.
Pressure Washing Tips for Deck Cleaning or Stripping
Power washing can speed up the deck cleaning process, but it should only be used by those with experience. Improper use can damage the wood and result in costly repairs. If you do choose to use a power washer, follow these guidelines to avoid harming your deck:
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Always use a deck cleaner or deck stain stripper first. These products do 90% of the cleaning work. The power washer should only be used to rinse off the loosened grime—not as the main cleaning method.
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Treat the power washer like a rinse tool, not a scrub brush. Use it to gently wash away the cleaner or stripper, not to grind dirt off the surface.
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Use a sweeping, pendulum-style motion. Work with the grain of the wood and never pause or reverse direction without lifting the wand. Failing to maintain a smooth motion can leave permanent “stop marks” in the wood.
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Keep pressure between 1200–2000 PSI. Even if you’re using a 3000 PSI machine, distance matters. Washing from 8–12 inches away will reduce the effective pressure to a safer level for wood surfaces.
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Exercise caution. If you’re unsure about your technique or have never used a power washer on wood before, it’s best to hire a professional. Incorrect use can permanently damage your deck.
🔹 Prep by Deck Condition
Not all decks require the same prep process. The key is understanding your deck’s current condition and using the correct method before staining.
From my experience, using the wrong prep method is one of the biggest reasons stains fail early.
🔸 New Wood Decks
New wood cannot be stained right away. It must be properly weathered and prepped to allow the stain to absorb.
- Let wood weather for 3–6 months
- Clean and brighten before staining
- Do not sand too smooth, as this can reduce absorption
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔸 Grayed or Weathered Wood
If your deck has turned gray from sun exposure, it needs to be cleaned and brightened.
- Use a wood cleaner to remove dirt and oxidation
- Follow with a brightener to restore color
- This will help open the wood pores for stain absorption
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔸 Previously Stained Deck (Good Condition)
If your deck has an existing stain that is still in good shape, you can usually clean and recoat.
- Clean and brighten the wood
- Make sure the existing stain is of stain brand and color
- Apply a maintenance coat before full wear
This is the easiest scenario and requires the least amount of prep.
🔸 Peeling or Failing Stain
If your deck has peeling, flaking, or uneven stain, it must be stripped before applying a new coat.
- Use a deck stripper to remove old coatings
- May require multiple applications
- Always follow with a brightener after stripping
Skipping this step will lead to poor results and uneven staining.
👉 How to Strip a Deck Stain
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔸 Rough or Splintered Wood
If the wood surface is rough or splintered, sanding may be needed.
- Light sanding can smooth the surface
- Do not over-sand, as it can reduce stain penetration
- Clean and brighten after sanding
Sanding should be used only when necessary, not as a default step.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Prep by Deck Condition
If you are unsure which category your deck falls into, start with cleaning and evaluate how the wood responds. If water does not absorb into the surface, additional prep such as stripping may be needed.
✅ Deck Prep FAQs
🔍 Cleaning & Brightening
Do I need to clean my deck before staining?
Yes. Cleaning removes dirt, mildew, and residue so the new stain can properly penetrate the wood.
Do I have to use a wood brightener after cleaning?
Yes. Brightening restores the wood’s pH balance and helps the stain absorb evenly. Skipping this step can lead to blotchy results.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🧱 Stripping vs Cleaning
How do I know if my deck needs to be stripped?
If the old stain is peeling, uneven, or water does not absorb into the wood, stripping is usually required. It is also needed when switching stain brands or types.
Can I just clean and recoat my deck without stripping?
Yes, but only if the existing stain is in good condition and compatible with the new stain. Otherwise, stripping is recommended.
🪵 Sanding
Should I sand my deck before staining?
Only if necessary. Sanding is typically used for rough wood or failed coatings. Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration.
⏳ Drying & Timing
How long should I wait to stain after cleaning the deck?
Wait 24–48 hours, depending on weather conditions, to ensure the wood is fully dry before staining.
What happens if I stain a damp deck?
Staining damp wood can lead to poor penetration, uneven color, and premature failure.
⚠️ Common Mistakes
What is the most common mistake when prepping a deck?
Skipping the brightener step or failing to fully remove old coatings before staining.
🆕 New Deck Prep
Do I need to prep new wood before staining?
Yes. New wood should be properly weathered, cleaned, and brightened before applying stain.
👉 Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🛠 Process & Order
What is the correct order for prepping a deck?
- ✔ Clean (or strip if needed)
- ✔ Brighten
- ✔ Let the wood dry
- ✔ Apply stain
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Deck Prepping
From my experience, proper prep is what determines how long your stain will last. If you take shortcuts here, the stain will fail early no matter how good the product is.
Deck Prepping Product Articles
What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
Hi Scott – thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I recently moved into this home and the previously home owner previously stained it with a semi-transparent waterproofing stain from Home Depot. I’d like to refinish this in a dark brown stain. Would you recommend stripping or sanding it? Secondly, we got some steps that weren’t previously stained – how should I handle those? Thanks a million!
Strip and brighten for the stained areas. Sand if needed to remove and stubborn areas. Clean and brighten for the unstained wood.
Hi Scott- Your articles are very helpful. I would appreciate advice on how best to prep and restain my deck this year so I don’t have to redo it every 2 years. I live in NYS Finger Lakes region so we have restrictions on product availability.
Made of New Wood or Older Wood? Pressure treated lumber and built 26 years ago.
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
In 2020 I cleaned the deck with Armor deck cleaner and a power washer to remove dirt and some peeling stain. Then decided to
sand it to the bare wood with commercial floor and hand sanders. I did not use a brightener. In 2020 and again in 2022 (because it was wearing off) I stained with Benjamin Moore Arborcoat oil based Translucent (Natural) stain. In 2024 I restained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil Translucent (Jarrah Brown) oil based. Before staining I washed with water, Tide and a deck brush and let it dry a few days.
Prior to 2020 we used water based stains.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? That depends on your recommendation.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil based – Translucent
Mold or Mildew Issues? – No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? –Not sure. It was peeling up in certain areas, moreso in the shady half than the half that gets more sun.
The spindles and vertical surfaces last several years. The floor and railing tops start to peel after about a year.
Photos- first one (with hose in upper corner) is before I power washed it. Other 3 photos are after I power washed it using only water to get peeling and loose stain off.
No stain will last longer than 2-3 years on a deck floor. Because of this, it is best to use a penetrating stain that can be cleaned and reapplied as needed. Stay away from any filming stains as they will continue to peel.
Your biggest issue will be removing the current coatings. It will not be easy as they are over-applied. Use the RAD stain stripper with both additives and pressure wash off. Sand if needed to get teh rest off and then brighten all wood when done.
Best stain options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
if I plan on sanding the deck to remove old solid stain do I still need to clean the deck with a deck cleaner first? Wouldn’t I use a deck cleaner / wood brightener after removing the old stain with sanding? My plan was to remove the old stain with 60 grit Then use the cleaner/brightened than sand again with the 80grit once the deck is dry from cleaning.
No need to clean first unless really dirty. After sanding, clean and brighten for final prep. Do not sand after the final cleaning.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
TWP – I hired a contractor to stain a gazebo and steps in my backyard. The gazebo has not been stained for at least 10 years. After the contractor stained the gazebo I noticed it looked very uneven. I pointed this out and they told me it was because some boards are more porous than others. I feel like they didn’t complete the correct prep. I’ve attached photos of before and after stain. The stain is TWP California Redwood. Any feedback you have would be great! I would like the gazebo stained correctly.
He’s correct. The wood itself is the issue, as it is older and very porous. In the darker areas, the wood is that way internally, and the TWP stains cannot make it lighter, nor would the prep.
Thank you. So even though I’ve read that if old boards are prepped properly they can stain, it’s not the case for all?
As we mentioned, it is internal disocloration. Prep cannot change or fix this.
TWP Stain California Redwood
We have a 9+ year old 600 sq. ft. exposed cedar deck in Bend, Oregon that we treated 3 years ago with a mix of 50% Boiled Linseed oil and 50% Mineral spirits after sanding the deck. At that time we did not go back and dry mop so there were some spots that were tacky at the end of the process and stayed that way for that summer. This May we are going to re-stain the deck with TWP 100 stain series. The wood, 95 % weathered and gray, is in good condition with just a few boards needing replacement. The other 5% under the eaves still shows some of the look from the original linseed/mineral spirits treatment. We are planning to sand the deck (we sanded a small piece and it looks good). We would like your thoughts on the prep process considering the treatment 3 years ago and about the TWP 100 series product for our deck in general.
Add some pics in the comments for prep advice.
We just had a down pour last night so the deck is wet. Thanks
We would suggest stripping and brightening all for the prep here. Use this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
TWP 100 Series is an excellent stain.
I need to know if I should clean or strip.
1. Cedar decking is 3-4 years old.
2. Stained with Cabot Australian Timber Oil – natural color
3. Applying a maintenance coat with same brand and color
4. Deck was stained about 2 years ago
5. About 60% of the original stain is still there. The other 40% is bare wood.
6. No mold or mildew issues.
7. Previous coat is simply wearing off in high traffic areas.
Pics of the current condition? You can add in comments.
I have 8 year old cedar decks. 5 years ago, they were stained (poorly, not by me) with Sikkens. Looked terrible, I hate that stuff! We just finished sanding it all away—a big job, considering the main deck is covered. Unfortunately, it’s going to rain for the next 4 days. The forecast says we will get a week of dry weather after the rain.
We covered the railings with loose plastic. Will we need to re-sand everything? What will 4 days of rain do? Or can just move forward with allowing the deck to dry before we clean and brighten with RAD and then stain?
Additionally, I bought 2 stains just to make sure I had them—would you recommend RAD semi-transparent cedar or Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent cedar? I’m in the PNW.
No need to sand or cover. Rain will not harm anything. As for the stain, both the AC and RAD stains are very good. Only one coat of the stain since you sanded the wood.
Should 10y/o PT decking (above ground rated) be cleaned + stripped + brightened or just cleaned + brightened? It was never stained or painted, it just has the original orange-colored ACQ PT coating that’s used in the West and PNW regions on it.
Add some pics in the comments.
Hopefully these pics work. None of the boards have been stained, they’re all above ground rated PT lumber but clearly not all the same age. My goal here is to try and get a more uniform appearance from the deck down to the dock and I’m not quite sure how to tackle the orange pressure treated wood.
Clean and brighten the gray flooring for prep. Strip and brighten the orange wood to remove as much of the factory coating as possible.
Strip and brighten for the prep. Look at this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
As for the Cabot ATO, be wary as the formula has changed over the years, and it is not as good as it used to be:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cabot-australian-timber-oil-review/
Hi from Alberta, Canada. I appreciate your helpful posts and would be grateful for advice on how to prep this arbour and small porch and what product you’d recommend for restaining. Thank you!
If switching stain brands, you will need to remove the Sikkens fully. Strip, sand if needed, and then brighten the wood.
Thanks, Scott. If I get the same Sikkens product, what prep would you suggest? I see us being able to thoroughly prep the posts and porch but anticipate some trouble accessing the top of the arbour (may just need to do our best reaching up between the slats).
Use a high-quality deck cleaner and pressure washing. The goal is to remove all the dirt and mildew. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
Yes, doing the top is not going to be easy.
Thanks!
* New Wood or Older Wood? Older wood
* Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, but not properly applied over 3 years ago
* Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? switching brands from BEHR PREMIUM®SEMI-TRANSPARENT WATERPROOFING STAIN & SEALER redwood to TWP 1500 Series Pecan
* Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. – BEHR PREMIUM®SEMI-TRANSPARENT WATERPROOFING STAIN & SEALER redwood
* What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Oil based BEHR PREMIUM®SEMI-TRANSPARENT WATERPROOFING STAIN & SEALER
* Mold or Mildew Issues? – very little, mostly dirt
* Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Not applied correctly, only pressure washed – no cleaner or anything, and only one coat with not full coverage
Are you sure it’s the oil-based version of Behr? If so, use this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
Yes it is. Got it confirmed. Thank you.
👍
I need to prepare my older small wood deck to apply a stain. It is on the third floor of the condo, so accessibility to water to clean and brighten the wood is impossible. Would sanding do the job? The wood is painted not stained and currently the paint is bubbling up. Thanks, Terri
See this for how to sand a deck:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
how to get redwood fence stain off of concrete
That will vary based on the stain brand and type of stain. Might want to contact the manufacturer of the stain directly for help.
Hi, I’m looking to cover my old deck with Cabot Deck Correct, and mostly want to know if I need to remove all old solid stain. Wonder if you’ve had experience with this product. The facts:
Old PT wood.
Has some remaining solid stain after pressure washing.
Looking to cover old Behr Deck Plus solid color acrylic latex that is about 5 years old with a darker color Cabot Deck Correct.
There was mildew, but washed off fine.
Reason for failure was constantly changing NE weather, and age. Wood is at least 20 years old and looking to get another 2-3 years out of it before fully replacing. No rotting boards.
Photos show the cracks I’m looking to fill and mask with the Deck Correct. Some boards show the existing stain is pretty intact, these were boards protected by a roof overhang. The rest of the surfaces got about 75% cleaned of the stain after cleaning and pressure washing.
I don’t want to have a bad prep. I assume I need the RAD paints strip for the stubborn areas, but not looking forward to sanding.
Thanks!
We would not suggest the Cabot Deck Correct. It has very poor reviews from consumers on this site. Most deck resurface coatings do not work very well:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-olympic-rescue-it-rust-oleum-deck-restore-do-they-work/
As for removing all the current solid stain, it is best to follow the directions of the coating manufacturer you end up using.
For prep, use the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper with both gel and booster additives. Brightener would be last.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product-category/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-strippers-and-additives/
Do you want stain suggestions? Do you want a solid stain, a penetrating semi-transparent, or a semi-solid?
I would appreciate some recommendations on both the kind of stain as well as a best brand selection. I love the look of the semi-transparent, but want to provide the best protection given the age of the deck and the sometimes extreme weather here in the Hill Country of Texas.
We like penetrating semi-transparent stains best. See here for options:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
Thanks for the info. Now, there’s a plan!
See this article for tips on recoating with a solid color stain:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Thanks so much for your help! I have used your site for years.
I would also love to know what stripper/brightener I need to prep the deck for the new stain.
To strip off TWP stains, you would need this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
1. Old wood (~11 years), with exception of one railing 4×4 that had to be replaced.
2. No Current Coatings (waterproofing applied ~7-8 yrs ago)
3. N/A (no coatings)
4. No stains, unknown waterproofing brand.
5. No stains
6. Slight mold issues in nail holes/btwn planks, but mostly scrubbed off.
7. No stains used to date.
8. Pics, see attached (before/after scrubbing, mold).
Scott –
I’d love your advice, particularly after reading your deckover reviews (that’s out now!).
I’ve got a large pecan tree that looms over the deck, providing lots of shade, but also lots of dirt, leaves, pollen, and pecans that can stain. I’ve scrubbed the deck to get rid of the dirt, but haven’t used any cleaner or brightener yet. Goal is to coat (stain/paint) to blend/hide the stains, but also protect/extend the life of the deck.
Again, I’d love your input.
Prep with this kit while pressure washing:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-package-300/
Copy that.
Afterward, do you think I’m good with semi-transparent stain (following your two-toned article)?
Yes, it will look great!
I have begun the process of refurbishing our front porch. It has been power washed and now I am confused, too much internet info, how to remove the old stain. I do not know what the previous homeowner used or how long ago. It has been over 7 years ago. I am going to re-stain using Cabot Gold moonlit mahogany. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Kent
Strip and brighten for prep:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
Use this kit:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/product/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/
There are many better stains than Cabot.
Can you recommend a stain that will give the effect of an indoor wood floor? Oil or water based makes no difference to me. Looking for the best appearance and most durable finish. We are going with a dark mahogany type color as we are painting the rails, rail caps and posts white and staining the deck and balusters dark.
Thank you for your time and advice!!!
You cannot have an outdoor stain that resembles an interior hardwood floor. They cannot be “shiny” when outside, as that will lead to peeling and blistering.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/your-deck-is-not-a-hardwood-floor/
Two-toned tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/advantages-to-having-a-two-toned-deck/
As you can see with the attached pictures, our deck is large & not all uniform – mixture of old(original) boards w/ heavy solid stain (peeling up and can remove in large strips) new replacement boards on upper deck. Lower deck (pool) boards are only about 5-6 years old & need stripped & re-stained (solid stain)
I am trying to complete the full deck at one time – the refresh & uniformity of the solid stain. I did purchase an airless sprayer to utilize on the vertical boards. During my research I have learned that I will need to dilute the solid stain to go in sprayer & for the first coat on the new deck boards. I have deck cleaner, pressure washer & 5 gallons of the solid stain already.
Any time line or order of operations you recommend to make this as least stressful, cost effective and streamlined as possible will be greatly appreciated.
If you want to recoat with a solid stain, see here for prep tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-reapply-a-solid-color-deck-stain/
Never dilute a solid stain. A solid stain can be easily applied with an airless sprayer without the need for dilution.
Behr Deckover has one of the worst ratings on our site:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-review-updated/