This post was updated on April 5, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stripping prep. My wood prepping help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
How to Prep a Deck 2026
This has become one of my most popular articles on how to prep your wood deck before applying a wood deck stain. In it, I will help consumers find the best way to prep their deck for an application or reapplication of a deck stain or deck coating. Not all scenarios are the same, and this article, with your input and pictures, will help determine the proper way for you to prep.
Best Deck Prep? Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
Clean, Strip, or Sand the Deck?
This is the 2nd most popular question deck owners have on this website, with the first being What is the Best Deck Stain?
Proper deck preparation is the most important step when it comes to staining exterior wood. From my experience restoring decks since 1993, most stain failures are caused by poor prep—not the stain itself.
If the wood is not cleaned, stripped (if needed), and brightened correctly, the stain will not penetrate properly and will fail much sooner than it should.
This guide will help you determine whether your deck needs to be cleaned, stripped, or sanded—and how to prep it correctly before staining.
Easy Pro Steps to Deck Prep
Prepping your deck properly is crucial for a long-lasting and professional-looking stain job. Follow these easy steps to ensure your deck is clean, prepped, and ready for staining!
Choose the Right Prep Method
There are three main ways to prep a deck before staining:
1️⃣ Deck Cleaning + Wood Brightening (For general dirt, mildew, and light stain removal)
2️⃣ Deck Stripping + Wood Brightening (For removing previous stains and coatings)
3️⃣ Power Sanding (For tough coatings like solid stains or paint)
You may also need a combination of these methods depending on your deck’s condition.
🔹 Step 1: Determine Your Deck Condition
Before starting, you need to identify your deck’s current condition. This will determine the proper prep method.
Common Deck Conditions:
- New Wood – Needs weathering and light prep
- Grayed or weathered wood – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Previously stained wood (good condition) – Needs cleaning and brightening
- Failing or peeling stain – Requires stripping or sanding
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Step 2: Cleaning the Deck
Wood and deck cleaners are designed to clean and prep the wood before applying wood stain. Deck cleaners are to remove grime and dirt, oxidation (graying), mold, algae, and, in some cases, deteriorated stains that have failed. However, they do not remove old stains or paint. Deck cleaners will “loosen” the dirt and grime so you can scrub or lightly pressure wash the wood without damage. Most deck cleaners will slightly darken or raise the pH of the wood, so following with a deck brightener is needed.
🔹 How It Works:
- Cleans wood by loosening dirt and grime
- Prepares wood for a fresh stain application
- Darkens the wood slightly, requiring a wood brightener afterward
🔹 Pro Tip: Avoid bleach-based deck cleaners like Olympic Deck Cleaner, 30 Seconds Deck Cleaner, and Behr Deck Cleaners. These can damage wood fibers and harm the environment.
🔹 How To Deck Cleaning Tips
- Use a quality wood deck cleaner
- Apply evenly and allow proper dwell time
- Pressure wash for heavily soiled areas
- Rinse thoroughly
Cleaning alone is not enough—you must follow with a brightener.
📌 More Info: Deck Cleaner Reviews
👉 Deck Cleaning Tips
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 3: Brightening the Wood
Brightening is a critical step that many homeowners skip.
- Restores natural wood color
- Neutralizes the wood after cleaning
- Opens the pores for better stain penetration
- Helps ensure even stain color
Skipping this step can lead to blotchy or uneven results.
👉 Deck Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
🔹 Step 4: Stripping the Deck (When Needed)
Deck stain strippers remove old coatings like clear sealers, transparent stains, and some semi-transparent stains. They are not effective on solid stains, paints, or varnish coatings. They are not designed to remove solid color opaque stains or paints. In addition, coatings that have a varnish-like shine cannot be stripped with a deck stain stripper. Deck strippers work on your old stain by softening the old coating to be heavily scrubbed or pressure-washed off. For a stripper to be effective, it needs to penetrate the coating and soften the bond between the coating and the wood. If it cannot penetrate the coating, it will not work. Deck stain stripper will significantly darken the wood, so a wood brightener is necessary to lighten the wood and restore the pH balance.
🔹 How It Works:
- Softens old stain coatings
- Allows for easy removal via scrubbing or pressure washing
- Darkens the wood, requiring a wood brightener to restore the pH balance
🔹 Pro Tip:
If you have a solid stain, deck paint, or varnish, use a paint stripper like RAD PaintStrip.
📌 More Info: Deck Stripper Reviews
🎥 Watch My How-To Strip a Deck Stain Video
🔹 You should strip your deck if:
- Stripping is required when old coatings are preventing proper absorption
- The old stain is peeling or uneven
- The coating is a solid or heavy film
- You are changing stain brands or the type of stain
- Removes old coatings for better penetration
- May require multiple applications
- Must be followed by brightening
👉 How to Strip a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stripping-removing-an-old-deck-stain/
🔹 Step 5: Sanding (When Necessary)
Sanding is usually a last resort if stripping doesn’t fully remove the old coating. If you need to sand off a solid stain or paint, it is best to start with 40 or 60-grit sandpaper, which is the best option for stripping old finishes. Never sand finer than 80 grit paper. Sanding finer than 80 grit may close the pores and prevent stains from penetrating. See here for more Deck Sanding tips.
Sanding is sometimes needed, but should not be your first option.
- Use when wood is rough, splintered, or heavily coated
- Helps smooth the surface if it’s very rough
Important: Over-sanding can reduce stain penetration. never sand finer than 60-80 grit.
🔹 Best Practices for Sanding:
- Use 40-60 grit sandpaper for stripping old finishes
- Never sand finer than 80 grit (this closes wood pores and prevents stain absorption)
- Spot-sand raised fibers or splinters if needed
🔹 Pro Tip: You can lightly spot hand sand to remove splinters or raised wood fibers. If you have furring of the wood grain, see this article. Deck Furring after Prep.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔹 Step 6: Dry Time Before Staining
After prep, the wood must dry completely unless using the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
- Allow 24–48 hours depending on weather
- Wood should feel dry to the touch
- Moisture content should be low
Staining damp wood is one of the most common causes of failure.
🔹 Recommended Deck Prep Products
Using the right products at each stage will make a huge difference in your final results.
For Cleaning and Brightening:
- Restore-A-Deck Cleaner System (top choice for prep)
For Stripping (if needed):
- Restore-A-Deck deck stain strippers (depending on coating type)
For Staining:
- Penetrating oil-based stains (TWP, Armstrong Clark)
- Water-based stains (Restore-A-Deck)
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 Common Deck Prep Mistakes
From my experience, these are the most common mistakes:
- Skipping the brightener step
- Not removing old coatings fully
- Over-sanding with too fine a grit
- Not allowing enough dry time
Avoiding these mistakes will significantly improve your results.
🔹 Final Thoughts on Deck Prep
Proper deck prep is the foundation of any successful staining project. No matter how good the stain is, it will not perform correctly without proper preparation.
From my hands-on experience, taking the time to clean, strip (if needed), and brighten your deck correctly will result in a better-looking finish that lasts longer and requires less maintenance.
If you follow these steps, your stain will perform the way it should, and your deck will be much easier to maintain over time.
Pressure Washing Tips for Deck Cleaning or Stripping
Power washing can speed up the deck cleaning process, but it should only be used by those with experience. Improper use can damage the wood and result in costly repairs. If you do choose to use a power washer, follow these guidelines to avoid harming your deck:
-
Always use a deck cleaner or deck stain stripper first. These products do 90% of the cleaning work. The power washer should only be used to rinse off the loosened grime—not as the main cleaning method.
-
Treat the power washer like a rinse tool, not a scrub brush. Use it to gently wash away the cleaner or stripper, not to grind dirt off the surface.
-
Use a sweeping, pendulum-style motion. Work with the grain of the wood and never pause or reverse direction without lifting the wand. Failing to maintain a smooth motion can leave permanent “stop marks” in the wood.
-
Keep pressure between 1200–2000 PSI. Even if you’re using a 3000 PSI machine, distance matters. Washing from 8–12 inches away will reduce the effective pressure to a safer level for wood surfaces.
-
Exercise caution. If you’re unsure about your technique or have never used a power washer on wood before, it’s best to hire a professional. Incorrect use can permanently damage your deck.
🔹 Prep by Deck Condition
Not all decks require the same prep process. The key is understanding your deck’s current condition and using the correct method before staining.
From my experience, using the wrong prep method is one of the biggest reasons stains fail early.
🔸 New Wood Decks
New wood cannot be stained right away. It must be properly weathered and prepped to allow the stain to absorb.
- Let wood weather for 3–6 months
- Clean and brighten before staining
- Do not sand too smooth, as this can reduce absorption
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔸 Grayed or Weathered Wood
If your deck has turned gray from sun exposure, it needs to be cleaned and brightened.
- Use a wood cleaner to remove dirt and oxidation
- Follow with a brightener to restore color
- This will help open the wood pores for stain absorption
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔸 Previously Stained Deck (Good Condition)
If your deck has an existing stain that is still in good shape, you can usually clean and recoat.
- Clean and brighten the wood
- Make sure the existing stain is of stain brand and color
- Apply a maintenance coat before full wear
This is the easiest scenario and requires the least amount of prep.
🔸 Peeling or Failing Stain
If your deck has peeling, flaking, or uneven stain, it must be stripped before applying a new coat.
- Use a deck stripper to remove old coatings
- May require multiple applications
- Always follow with a brightener after stripping
Skipping this step will lead to poor results and uneven staining.
👉 How to Strip a Deck Stain
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-prep-clean-strip-or-sand-the-deck/
🔸 Rough or Splintered Wood
If the wood surface is rough or splintered, sanding may be needed.
- Light sanding can smooth the surface
- Do not over-sand, as it can reduce stain penetration
- Clean and brighten after sanding
Sanding should be used only when necessary, not as a default step.
👉 How to Sand a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Prep by Deck Condition
If you are unsure which category your deck falls into, start with cleaning and evaluate how the wood responds. If water does not absorb into the surface, additional prep such as stripping may be needed.
🔹 Deck Prep FAQs
Do I need to clean my deck before staining?
Yes. Cleaning is required to remove dirt, mildew, and old stain residue so the new stain can properly penetrate the wood.
Do I have to use a wood brightener after cleaning?
Yes. Brightening is a critical step that restores the wood’s pH balance and helps the stain absorb evenly. Skipping this step can lead to blotchy results.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
How do I know if my deck needs to be stripped?
If changing stain brands and or the type of stain. If the old stain is peeling, uneven, or water does not absorb into the wood, then stripping is usually required before applying a new stain.
Can I just clean and recoat my deck without stripping?
Yes, but only if the existing stain is the same stain brand and color and is still in good condition. If not, stripping may be needed.
Should I sand my deck before staining?
Only if necessary. Sanding is typically used for rough wood or failed coatings, but over-sanding can reduce stain penetration.
How long should I wait to stain after cleaning the deck?
You should wait 24–48 hours, depending on weather conditions, to ensure the wood is fully dry before staining. This does not apply to Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
What happens if I stain a damp deck?
Staining damp wood can lead to poor penetration, uneven color, and early stain failure. This does not apply to Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
What is the most common mistake when prepping a deck?
The most common mistake is skipping the brightener step or failing to fully remove old coatings before staining.
Do I need to prep new wood before staining?
Yes. New wood should be properly weathered and cleaned before applying stain.
👉 Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
What is the correct order for prepping a deck?
The proper order is:
- Clean (not needed if stripping)
- Strip (if needed)
- Brighten
- Let dry
- Stain
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔥 Pro Tip – Deck Prepping
From my experience, proper prep is what determines how long your stain will last. If you take shortcuts here, the stain will fail early no matter how good the product is.
Deck Prepping Product Articles
What is the best way to prep my Deck?
I will ask a series of questions. Based on your answers, I can help you determine the best way to prep your Deck before applying a deck stain.
- New Wood or Older Wood?
- Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
- Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
- Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
- What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
- Mold or Mildew Issues?
- Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
- You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Post a comment below and include the answers to the above questions. Feel free to include any additional useful information!
1. Older wood – believe 4 years old, mid-Indiana, partial shade all day.
2. Yes on most of deck: used Pittsburgh deck cleaner on whole deck followed by washing off with garden hose (don’t have power washer), power sanded with 50 grit belt sander deck surface and tops of rails. Posts, slats and cross boards on rails are still stained.
3. Intending to match color to what is still stained.
4. unknown
5. Believe it is semi-solid oil based
6. No mold/mildew, some algae
7. Sun/age, believe it hasn’t been re-stained since previous owner built deck 4 years ago.
Additional questions, don’t think we need to re-stain the rails and posts yet, appear to be still in good condition. After power sanding to smooth off splintering there still appears to be some remnants of stain (nail heads tended to rip sanding belts 😩 so I mostly went around them). Is that going to be problematic? Wife wants to avoid using a stripper due to the chemicals around the kids and dog. Last, couple boards will need replacing, intending to used AC2 green treated. Will just need to let it weather till next year, then brighten and stain, right?
Restaining deck that was done 2 years ago because of a lot of pealing should we sand the whole deck again or spot staining and giving a second coat all over
Pictures?
more pics
Pics of deck
i powerwashed my deck (20 yo pressure treated wood) and then sanded by hand, orbital and big rental machine. I ordered some readyseal but now i’m thinking about getting a stripper and applying it to the deck just to be sure i get any old residule stain off. 2 concerns—1. it has rained since i’ve sanded…going on 2 weeks now…so after stripping will the wood be pourous enough to take a oil stain? 2. my power washer died on me…so will a garden hose with a nozzle generate enough psi to remove the stripper or should i go out and get a new pw? Thoughts please. thanks in advance. will upload pics shortly
Yes, strip and then brighten this.
1. Yes.
2. Get a new pressure washer. Hose will not work.
thank you—strip and brighten are two separate applications right?
Correct.
I just apply two coats of stain to my newly constructed deck. Allowed almost 3 months to dry out before I stained. I despise the color. What is the best method for me to start over?
New Wood or Older Wood? 2.5 months old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? No
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Behrs Premium semi-transparent
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Semi transparent
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? It didn’t fall but I hate the color
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
You will have to power sand this off. Clean and brighten after. Stain with TWP or Armstrong Clark stains.
I’m looking for advice on what to do with a failed Fall 2019 stripping/stain job. I think I need to resurface. It’s a 20-year-old deck that hadn’t been maintained too well for the first 15 years. The Restore-a-Deck job took me weeks last year, including stripping and staining (that shows you the level of my inexperience). Now, I think I’d like to resurface, but my question is, do I need to re-strip or can I just clean and resurface? The manufacturers’ instructions on the resurface brands you recommend seem to indicate a complete stripping before applying the resurfacing. Do you agree? Thanks.
New Wood or Older Wood? Older – 1999
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes – Poor result of Restore-a-Deck stain last fall
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Will switch to a resurfacer
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. Restore-a-Deck
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? Semi-transparent, water-based. The stripper seemed to work very well – the deckboards showed just bare wood
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Not sure. It was my first time. I had completely stripped the old deck covering, which probably hadn’t been stripped in many years. I stripped with Restore-a-Deck, brightened with Restore-a-Deck brightener, then stained with two coats. The result wasn’t that great in the Fall, when complete, and now, in the Spring, it’s just not a good job. Could be my fault
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
For the prep, you would have to strip off and neutralize. As for Deck Resurface brands, be careful as many are just really bad: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-olympic-rescue-it-rust-oleum-deck-restore-do-they-work/
This is by far the best one: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/gulf-synthetics-deck-revive-review-2015/
Thanks!
Hi… I power washed yesterday and it looks as if I’ve really messed it up with streaks. I only used water. We were wanting to do a maintenance strain.
1) Old wood that we bought Pre-stained but stained again when we installed 3 years ago.
2) current – acrylic oil semi transparent stain (Pittsburg Ultra)
3) want to stay with brand (Pittsburg Ultra) but do alkyd oil toner in a similar color. We could do the exact same Type & color as before just don’t care for the color.
4) there was minimal mildew. The stain had just worn in high traffic areas.
Thank you for the assist!
You will need a stripper and pressure wash again. Brightener after.
New Wood or Older Wood? Old wood
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Had Deck Restore, scraped off, powerwashed, used deck cleaner
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. unknown, believe mix of stain and deck restore
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Mold or Mildew Issues? some green mld built up on wood.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? unsure
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Summary: The previous owners of the house left the deck with patches of deck restore, stain, and bare wood. the bare wood has accumulated mold. We were able to slowly but surely get most of the grey deck restore off, or down to the grain. There are spots where it is embedded in the grain. There is now, after power washing several times and cleaning, still dark brown stain left over. Can we stain over this? I dont want it to show through. Whats the best next step?
Please see grey deck restore bits and dark brown stain in pics. (pics are post wash, still wet)
THANK YOU
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? using olympic max stain and sealant in canyon brown.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. unknown, believe mix of stain and deck restore
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? -New stain transparent. Old stain solid, I think.
You cannot cover over the Rust-oleum Deck Restore so you will need to get it all off. Try power sanding to remove.
Thank you! What about the other stain that isnt deck restore? The dark brown parts?
Still need to sand or remove off fully.
First time home owner. These are 2 different decks on the sides of our house (2 pics each). Unsure if I need to sand or just apply cleaner and brightener.
1. Unknown age
2. I don’t think so
3. No
4. Unknown
5. Unknown
6. The first deck seems a little moist/rotted
7. Age. Time to refresh.
Clean and brighten the wood for prep and stain with Restore A Deck Stains or TWP 1500 Series.
Awesome website and information here!
1. Older Wood (very more than 25 years old).
2. Semi-transparent was last applied more than 10 years ago.
3. Switching. Will go with darker oil-based semi-transparent..
4. Unknown
5. semi-transparent oil-based
6. No.
7. Age. Time to refresh.
I have already power washed and cleaned. I did not use a chemical stripper and after reviewing info here, just want to get expert advice on whether I can go ahead with a darker oil-based semi-transparent (thinking cedar color) or if I need to redo entire prep with chemical stripper. Hoping that with age of prior stain, and going with a darker semi-transparent, than I don’t need to strip, but expert advice is appreciated!
NOTE: what looks like patches of light color wood in the picture is just spots where sunlight peeks through the shade of a tree [picture has most of the deck in shade, but sunlight peeks through in patches].
You should strip and brighten for this deck.
1. 3 year old redwood Rainbow brand playset
2. Factory applied semi-transparent water based stain sealer
3. We’d like to switch to TWP 100 but are wary of the massive amount of work required to strip EVERYTHING.
4. Rainbow brand stain sealer applied by factory
5. Water based semi-transparent
6. No mold or mildew but significant traffic wear on select areas
7. High wear due to kid traffic. The rest of the stain is holding up perfectly as you can see from the railing photo.
We are considering two options.
1. Stick with Rainbow stain. (Questionable quality but maybe a ton less work)
2. Switch to TWP 100 stain. (Excellent quality but massive work to strip everything)
My questions:
1. If we stick with the Rainbow brand stain, will we still have to strip the playset or just clean and brighten it?
2. If we switch to TWP 100, will it be less work in the long run because it’s a better quality stain?
1. Clean and Brighten.
2. Probably but you will need to strip what you can and then sand off the rest. Brightener last.
Thanks!
We’re going to go with 1: Clean and Brighten. But I just discovered I cannot get the Rainbow stain currently. :( Can I use the RAD water based stain if the color is close?
No, you have to strip if switching brands of stain.
1. a mix of both
2. yes, see pic, I have no idea what is on it.
3. I want it stripped and then something new put on..low maintenance..not sure what. no idea what is on it now
4. unkown
5. no idea
6. i dont think so
7. no idea
ps it would only let me upload one pic
another pic
You cannot strip this off. You will have to power sand if you want to remove a solid stain.
How do you know what it is? How can you tell?
It is a solid stain.
Not sure what do do! New pressure treated wood deck, stained it and came out terrible. I would like to put a different brand of stain on, what do I need to do, any help appreciated
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Strip and brighten this to remove.
What grade of sand paper?
Strip not sand it off.
What stain did you put on this?
It was called Techniseal and what do I use to strip it?
Thank you
Try the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and then the Brightener.
Hi,
I am in the process of applying a new oil base stain (possibly cutek). I was wondering if it a clean up and prep is required. In the last picture you will see the deck has been sanded with 60 grit sand paper. Any recommendation would be great.
1. Older Wood approximatly 5-7 years old
2. No coating
3. New stain
4.Unknown
5. No stain
6. None
7. N/A
Clean and brighten the wood for final prep.
Want to know whether to clean or do we need to sand before restaining
1. Older wood (deck originally installed in 2014 )
2. Yes
3. same brand and color
4. Armstrong Clark applied in 2017 after removing previous stain with Defy Stripper
5. Oil based, semi transparent
6. No mold or mildew issues
7. Weather/ Sun
Just clean and brighten the wood for the prep with this deck.
1.Older Wood
2. No coating can’t see any color or shine. (not sure)
3. Don’t know if any exist and don’t know the brand
4. unknown previous deck stain
5. Unknown
6. had Mold and Mildew before cleaning it with 30 second outdoor cleaner
7.unknown
Seems like power washing has left a very rough surface. This deck hasnt been cleaned or stained for at least 5 years.
Do I need to sand?
Canadian winter resistant stain?
Deck close to the ground does that affect the stain type?
Pictures. Before on the right and after on the left.
Some pictures. pre and post cleaning with 30 second outdoor cleaner and power wash.
Clean again with a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. Stain with TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark for Canada.
Moved into my grandparents house built in 2006, I assume the deck is from 2006 as well.
1. Older Wood, we will replace a few boards that have rotten holes, but most is okay.
2. It had been stained with a reddish solid stain that was never reapplied or kept up and was flaking and worn, we powerwashed it but not all the stain came up.
3. Switching brands and type would prefer semi transparent oil based.
4. Unknown original stain, just that it was solid
5. Solid, spotty coverage
6. slight mildew on one small portion, but mostly just sun exposure
7. Never reapplied
The 4th picture is from 2013, 3rd 2016, 2nd 2019 before powerwashing, 1st 2020 after powerwashing.
You will have to power sand this all off if you want to use a semi-transparent stain. Strippers will not remove this fully.
Based on articles from this site I was planning on stripping, sanding, and then brightening before staining.
You cannot strip this stain. You will have to sand it off.
1. Older wood – at least 20 years old.
2. Yes, however, we have started prep by using Cabot stripper and brightener already.
3. Yes! Flood Pro solid color stain
4. Cabot and then switched to Olympic Elite last year which is flaking. Not sure if it was brand or incorrect prep?
5. Solid color
6. Gets some mildew and algae – however all is gone after power washing and initial prep
7. Not sure
Question – Is it necessary to get rid of all the old stain that was left after stripping and neutralizing? If we do sand, do we need to power wash using a brightener again or can we just sweep or use blower on the decks before staining?We are going to use a darker gray color this time.
You can cover the intact stain with a new solid stain.
1. Old Wood (probably 10-20 years, in pretty good shape)
2. Deck has a current coating
3. Looking to change brand and color
4. Looks to be Behr Premium Transparent Redwood 502 (found old cans in the basement – was last stained over 7-8 years ago before we purchased home)
5. Transparent Redwood color
6. Some mold/mildew on stairs/horizontal areas
7. Flaking/mildew
Deck has Trex for the main walking areas and tops of railings. All other areas of deck (spindles/support/stairs) all wood. New pressure treated gate added this year. Would like to stain a medium/dark brown in a semi-transparent. Thanks for your help!
Strip and brighten for prep and try Armstrong Clark Stains or TWP Stains.
Awesome, thank you! Do I need to be careful to avoid getting any stripper/cleaner on the Trex?
No.
Looking for some help on prepping to refinish a wrap around deck. Live in Wisconsin so elements are harsh. Lots of flaking and peeling of previous effort to re-stain. I don’t know the reason for failure for this coat which is only 2 years old.
1. Wood Deck (cedar) about 5-6 years old.
2. Current coating is Sherwin Williams Super Deck Semi-Solid
3. Would like to apply a maintenance coat of same brand/color, but not sure if deck is beyond that point.
4. Current Deck Stain Type? Water-Based, Clear, Semi-Solid
5. Mold or Mildew Issues – yes on the north side of the deck
Would appreciate your advice on choosing one of the two scenarios:
1. applying maintenance coat (clean, spot sand, etc?)
2. Or just scrapping the whole thing and starting over with a different product like RAD. How would I go about that? Strip, brighten, sand?
1. This would be the easiest. Just remove the loose stain and reapply.
2. You would have to sand this off. Once removed you can use a better brand that will be easier to maintain.
Leaning towards option #2 (sand off and use different brand).
Do I need to use a cleaner or brightener after sanding? Do I need to use a mold/mildew treatment? Or just stain right after sanding? Thanks in advance.
Yes, clean and brighten after sanding helps the stain to soak in better. Just use a stain after. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
We used a sanding machine on this very old deck. The boards aren’t flat, so it was VERY hard getting up this 15yr old behr. (Previous owner)
Should we now use a stripper to get the remnants? We did power wash it. If so, what would be the needed product, so we can start staining it.
Thanks again!!
A stripper may help some but it will not get it all off. Strip as much as possible and then spot sand the rest. Brighten the wood last.
Trying to decide whether to re-apply same stain or strip and move to solid stain because of mildew issues
1. 6-7 yrs old pressure treated wood
2. Reapplied stain two years ago
3. Considering moving to solid stain
4. TWP-1500
5. Oil based (TWP-1500 honeytone)
6. Mildew on handrails mostly
7. Suspect mildew is a problem on the hand rails because they are broad and flat and get no direct sunlight except from late spring to late summer
Strip and brighten for the prep.
Hello, working from home is allowing me to invest time in re-staining the deck. I want to make sure I do everything right. Answers to the questions are:
1. Older wood, cedar, built 6-7 years ago
2. Stain still partly in place, rough sanding was performed last year
3. I plan to us the same brand
4. Sikkens
5. Semi-transparent, water-based, butternut color
6. No mold or mildew issues
7.
8. Attached
Other: worried about the difference between the sanded areas (easy to reach) and harder to reach areas. Since the Sikkens product calls for a single coat, I’m assuming preparation is essential for a uniform result.
Strip and brighten for this prep so it is even when you apply.
Thanks for your guidance. No need for additional sanding? I’ve been praying for a way to avoid sanding this monster !
You may have to sand some stubborn spots when done with the stripping.
So strip, sand any residual spot, brighten, stain & open a cold one it is !
Thanks for the guidance.
Well, you may want to start with a cold one prior but yes, sounds correct.
Debating replace wood, do composite kind or keep?!
1. Wood is at least nine years old
2. Some sections has a current coating other parts it’s worn off
3. Bought previous at Lowe’s not sure if Cabot or Thompson’s?
4. I think semi transparency not sure. But the pickets held color/stain best and still do.
5 ?
6. Just weathered, some cracked splintered and algae no mold n mildew that we can see.
7 not proper maintenance? Application? Weather? It’s been couple years so…?
But we can’t decide replace some boards or do all new or composite etc. I’d like least costly fix sorry some pics don’t show age -it’s currently wet from rain
Pictures?
Sorry I thought they attached
Third time try to upload pics
Strip and brighten the wood for prep. Stain with TWP Stain or Armstrong Clark.
I have an 8 year old untreated ipe wood deck. I purchased Armstrong Clark Stain and want to stain it.
Not sure if i need to sand down the whole deck, hoping i don’t have to because the deck boards are a little bent upwards and uneven from the sun, so sanding would be difficult. The deck gets a LOT of sun!
Please advise on the best prep before staining.
Thanks
Post a picture or two.
1. Older wood
2. I have stripped current coat but have not used wood brightener yet.
3. I am keeping same brand and product
4. CW Flood Spa-N-Deck (natural honey tint)
5. Current stain is CW Flood Spa-N-Deck. It is an Acrylic/Oil Finish Base Coat and an Acrylic Finish Top Coat, semi-transparent.
6. No mold or mildew issues
7. Stripped because area of deck with long sun exposure had begun to flake. It has been over 10 years since the base coat and top coat have been applied together. I have used top coat to touchup every 2-3 years. Much of stain came up when cleaned and pressure washed.
Prep looks good to apply the same coating and color!
Great. Thanks for the quick response.
1.) Unknown (house is 12 years old, bought a year ago, looks like a few individual boards have been replaced)
2.) Yes
3.) Yes I am switching brands. Prefer to use semi-transparent.
4.) Sherwin Williams
5.) Semi-transparent
6.) No severe issues. Algae in some areas
7.) Figure it just needs a new stain (tag on can of existing stain is from 2013). Appears to be flaking/wearing off.
Seeking assistance on whether to sand or strip/brighten. Much appreciated.
Strip off as much as you can, sand if needed to remove all, brighten wood prior to prep. Stain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Need help with new deck (red cedar) staining. What are the steps I need to take for best results?
Answers to questions:
1. New Wood
2. Does the Deck have a Current…
No
3. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Not sure which I should use. I want to see the grain of wood, so thought semi-transparent?
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current Condition.
Picture was after first rain in deck…
Thank you.
See new wood tips here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hi! Here’s the story! Appreciate your advice :)
1. Pressure treated 20+ yr old, subject to PA weather, snow and high heat humidity
Afternoon full sun
2. Partial, mostly worn off hasn’t been stained in 10 years
3. Switching
4. Cabot
5. Solid color oil decking stain, color Acorn (medium tan)
6. No
7. We think previous owner stained with a non oil stain but it was worn off before we stained 10 years ago. Prep for that staining was deck wash and pressure wash and then stained with oil. Lasted about a year but it started flaking and is now mostly gone from larger deck, better adherence on smaller deck but flaking now, So far the deck has just been power washed as prep for a new stain. Pictures are after recent powerwash.
We have some popped, warped, and deteriorated boards that we plan to replace. We are considering prepping and staining the deck, then replacing bad boards, then staining the new boards in 6 months to a year. We didn’t want to go thru another summer with deck unsealed. Let me know if that’s a bad idea?
Recommended stain/brand? We are thinking solid oil, 2 coats.
Thank you so much!
Jane
Yes, use a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
As for prep, remove all the loos and peeling stain by stripping and or sanding. New wood should weather for 3 months or so. Best to replace wood now and then do all the staining in Fall.
Thank you! Is there a preferred option with pressure treated? Strip or sand?
Suggest brighten also? Or no?
And what is the particular downside to staining now then replacing bad boards and staining new boards in fall. I see that u suggest just doing boards and doing all staining in fall.
Strip as much as you can and then brighten after. It will look blotchy if you spot stain later and not blend as well,
Thank you again. Sorry one more question, I notice that in the link you supplied (best solid stains) that many of them are water based. Can we use a water based or do we have to stick with an oil based. ❤️
Thanks again! Looking at the link you supplied (Best solid stains) I see a lot of water based stains. Is that ok for us to use considering the previous oil based paint?
(ps tht maybe I didn’t hit post so if this is a repeat please excuse)
There are not any oil-based solid stains out there anymore, that is the issue. We have not had any issues applying the stains over an oil-based coating.
Oh ok! Gotcha. Really appreciate your help and expertise! 👍🏻
Restore 4x was applied to our deck 5 years ago. It did well but is now starting to peel. Suggestions on where to go from here.
The only way to fix is to sand it all off or replace the wood.
Any help appreciated, just moved in recently and looking to fix up the deck but not sure the best way to go about it.
New Wood or Older Wood?
Looks newer
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
Yes, but not sure of brand or type.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Unknown what was used previously, would just like to spruce up what I have. If I wanted to change the color, will I need to strip what’s already here?
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
unknown
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
Some kind of paint, it doesn’t appear to be peeling or anything the wood just looks like it needs help.
Mold or Mildew Issues?
No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
n/a
That is a solid stain. Pressure wash for prep and apply another solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi, We are having our house painted and part of the process is for them to clean and stain the ceiling on our porch which is exposed wood. Similar to a deck, but on the ceiling. The previous owner power washed the ceiling and there were water spots and power washer lines. The painting company stripped the ceiling the other day and the attached picture is 2-days after the stripping process. They think they will need to sand; do you think it needs sanding?
Do they need to clean and brighten? Before sealing?
Also, I want it stained with a clear stain fully transparent. What do you recommend for this?
Applying a brightener on this should help even it out. Try that first. Look at Defy Extreme Clear for the clear sealer.
Any need to sand and then brighten it? or just brighten?
I have a feeling that I’m going to need to guide the painters… and they are supposedly the best in town :)… Thank you for all the input. This site is great and save us people so much time having a responsive resource.
Just brighten. Strippers are caustic and darken the wood internally. Brighteners neutralize and reset the pH balance. It should hopefully help.
Hi, I would like to stain a cedar garage door and deck with a slightly lighter shade. The last staining took place about 5 years ago. The product used was CETOL SRD RE Transparent Matte stain with teak color. I intend to use the same product with the slightly lighter cedar color.
My intention has been to clean and brighten the wood. Is that the best approach? Which product to clean and brighten do you recommend.
Yes, clean and brighten the wood. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-cleaner-system-review/
That was fast. Thanks. Another related question before I move forward. Is there any value in strippers given the stain I used previously? In my readings it appears that strippers are more often used on oil based and semi or solid stains.
Only strip if switching brands or if the current stain is peeling/failing.
I applied cleaner and then a brightener but the results varied a lot. There was some lightening but there are a number of dark splotches and generally the result generally does not appear to be the correct color of the underlying cedar. Do you have any suggestions?
Strip and brighten this. Also you will need a pressure washer.
I have two decks that need attention this year and I would appreciate your help. The house is in Southwest Utah. Elevation is 5200’. Temperatures range from 0 to 95 degrees F. Sun is a constant April through October. Rain is not an issue but we do get 12”+ of snow December through February.
South deck is covered but receives some sun daily. There is some raised grain especially on hand rails and the first deck boards. There is not much foot traffic except at the steps and front door. I have not done any prep on this deck yet. I’m hoping you can advise the best way to prep this wood.
North deck is completely uncovered and receives harsh mid day to late afternoon sun. The boards did not weather well so I have recently planed some raised edges, belt sanded (36 grit) and orbital sanded (60 grit) all the deck boards removing the gray layer. This is where the BBQ grill is and is the primary entrance to the house so it sees a lot of foot traffic.
1. New Wood or Older Wood?
South deck – built 2016 of untreated pine or Douglas fir.
North deck – built 2018 of untreated pine or Douglas fir.
2. Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
South deck – yes.
North deck – no.
3. Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
South deck – yes. Based on what I’ve read here I will not apply products from the big box stores again.
North deck – has never been stained.
4. Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
South deck – Flood FLD543 clear stain from HD applied in 2016 and reapplied in 2017.
North deck – not applicable.
5. What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
South deck – probably water based clear stain.
North deck – not applicable.
6. Mold or Mildew Issues?
South deck – no.
North deck – no.
7. Reason for Previous Stain Failure?
South deck – don’t know. Maybe because I didn’t prep the wood and then applied inferior product that I should never have purchased?
North deck – not applicable.
Thanks.
Strip and brighten the south deck and clean and brighten the north deck. Sse the Restore A Deck Prep products. Stain all Restore A Deck Stain or the Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thanks for the quick response and suggestions. I know you just saved me a lot of work!
Good Morning – a little guidance. I am repainting my house exterior and am looking to also stain my front porch while I’m at it to make it look nice.
How should I prep the mahogany flooring on the porch. What kind or brand of stain would you recommend? Thank you.
Here is some information
1) Older wood- mahogonay about 15 years old
2) Does the Deck have a Current Coating? No
3) Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? No
4) Unknown
5) Unknown
6) no mold or mildew issues
7) none
Please see attached picture. Also FYI, I’m in the New England area.
Thank you for you help with this !
You do have an old stain on the wood. Strip and brighten for prep. Stain with Restore A Deck Stain in Light Walnut color or Armstrong Clark in Mahogany color.
Thank you very much for the quick response ! Much appreciate :)
New Wood or Older Wood?
Doug Fir, 3 years old. Part intense sun (Idaho at 5000 ft.) and part shade. Half the deck MUST be covered with snow for 4 months (we get 340″/winter)
Does the Deck have a Current Coating?
First coat: exterior (not deck) semi-transparent Sherwin Williams. The following year after power washing and cleaning, a coat of Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Semi Transparent, Touched up with SuperDeck up after power washing the third year.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color?
Switching to TWP100 pro series (already own it)
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.
See above.
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain?
See above
Mold or Mildew Issues?
NO
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Guessing the first coat of simple exterior stain was wrong and applied too early on new wood. Second and third coats of Sherwin Williams SuperDeck (which is not SUPER) were applied after power washing but not stripping.
Deck is 26″ x 12′.
Pressure washed (see photos). Because it is such a mess, I am thinking of removing all the boards and belt sanding to original wood (Douglas Fir best grade), then applying the TWP first coat and then a second coat with darker color of TWP 100.
Is this the best plan? Any easier way to do it? We live on a huge lake and don’t want the chemicals to get into the lake if possible.
I removed boards from one part of deck and power sanded. Then applied the TWP 100 and looks great BUT don’t like the color. Can I put a second darker stain over the first coast to darken the appearance?
Thanks. This site is simply the best I have ever encountered!
You will need to sand this to fix this. As for the TWP, you would have to use the same color for both coats.
We hate the color. Do I have to resend the new first coat on the boards already done? Are you sure we can do a second darker coat? It’s the same brand TWP 100
It may not take or dry correctly if you do not remove it first.
Going darker and the TWP rep thought it would be ok. Will be consistent with the cover and a long dry time. No wet on wet. Think it will work?
Based on the pictures it will probably have issues drying and will be sticky and tacky.
Our deck is older redwood. It was previously stained with Sherwin Williams Semi-transparent oil based. It was stained 2 years ago. We get black from the trees and it takes a beating from the sun. The stain did not preform well at all. By your reviews we are switching to TWP Pro 100 Series cedar tone color.
We have started the process of refinishing. We have removed old stain. We didn’t have much luck with the stripper Restore a Deck from TWP. We used oxi clean to remove old stain and pressure washer. It was the only way it would come off! Which it has raised the wood. Now not sure what to do next. Should we sand the deck with 60 to 80 grit sandpaper? Then use the brightener? Then stain? I am sending you pictures. Thank you for your help.
See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
When do you do the brightener? before you sand?
After.
What type of prep should I do for semi transparent or solid stain
1. Old wood, 2×6 about 15 years old. I think
2. No coating
3. No existing brand
4. Unknown
5. No stain
6. Some mold and mildew
7. Not sure if there was any existing stain used
Full sun in the afternoon to evening. Why would you recommend for stain or paint? Upstate NY. All season, snow, heat and humidity.
Thanks.
Clean and brighten the wood for prep.
Thank you for your help!
Prep questions:
New Wood or Older Wood? 5 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Don’t think so. I think the wood used was Micropro Sienna, which had a definite colour to begin with. No coating added after the deck was installed (I didn’t know I was meant to!). The guys who installed it did use some cut stain that was matched to the sienna colour
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? Neither – the wood has never been stained.
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know. N/A
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? N/A
Mold or Mildew Issues? Some patches here and there where water has sat over winter etc.
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? The deck has aged and some surfaces are grey, while others retain a faded version of the original sienna colour. The vertical surfaces have retained more colour.
Stain questions:
Deck Location State: Ontario, Canada
Full Sun, Partial Shade, Full Shade: Combination of full sun/partial shade – mostly full sun.
Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine – Micropro Sienna
Mold or Mildew Issues: Minor
Reason for Previous Stain Failure: Faded on flat surfaces, some colour on the verticals
Previous Stain Brand and Type of stain (Solid, Semi-transparent, Transparent, etc): None?
Looking for a reco for products in Canada, e.g. Behr, C.I.L., Dulux. I’ve never treated the deck and am a total novice. We have a shed in the same wood that still has a lot of colour (partial/full shade location, installed at the same time as the deck), so I’m hoping to clean the deck and reinstate the original colour as closely as possible. Can I clean the deck with a pressure washer only? Should I use a semi-transparent waterproofing stain? Is there a brand/colour that’s known to be close to the micropro sienna colour? All help greatly appreciated, thanks.
Strip and brighten the wood for the prep. Stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP 200 Series for Canada.
Thank you! Semi-transparent, or transparent stain?
Semi-transparent
I have a beautiful Japanese Maple that has roots extending under a deck in my back yard. The deck is ground level, so I cannot put tarps under it for stripping and brightening. Are there any products safe to use that won’t harm the tree and surrounding shrubs?
They should be okay.
Any help you can give is much appreciated! I have no idea what I’m doing!
1. Older wood (we moved in 7 years ago, house was built 34 years ago)
2. Yes – looks like paint
3. Switching – ideally a natural wood looking stain
4. Unknown
5. Looks solid? Unsure since we didn’t stain it
6. No
7. Age, I guess?
Yes, a solid stain. For prep, use a stain stripper and remove the loose and peeling stain. Let dry and then power sand off the remaining loose stain. You can then cover the intact stain with a new coat of solid stain. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank you so much for the quick reply! Much appreciated!
My husband built a new redwood deck last summer about 800 sq ft and the wood was properly dried and was clean when Valspar One Coat Exterior Stain and Sealer Clear was applied. It was completed at the end of July with dry weather before and after for a few weeks. We live in the Pacific Northwest, but in the dry area of Washington state, so other than spring, there isn’t a lot of rain. In October black mold spots were noticed by the customer and it was patchy and blotchy. By March 2020 the whole deck was getting black mold which appeared to be on the surface at the time. Due to spring rains he had to wait for dry weather to start a stripping process. Yesterday, he broomed away the surface mold and dirt and pollen that had accumulated and applied the Sherwin Williams Superdeck Stain and Sealer remover to a small part of the deck according to product instructions. It appears that it removed the sealer, however, there are spots of black stain in the wood (assuming its mold) under the sealer which were accentuated after applying the remover. He has not stripped the entire deck yet as he is not sure what to do next. Before and after pictures are included. This was a very expensive project that my husband built for a customer, he has been building decks for 30 years and has never had this problem. It was his first time to use the Valspar product as the client wanted a clear coating to accentuate the redwood appearance and it was recommended by Lowes. After applying the sealer in July 2019, everything looked perfect. Attaching pictures of completed deck taken 08/06/2019, pictures of the deck in March 2020 after customer reported to him the problems, and a picture of what the deck looked like after applying the Sherwin Williams stripper yesterday. The first photo was taken August 6, 2019, the 2nd taken March 5, 2020, and the third is yesterday, 05/28/20 after stripper was applied. He is extremely stressed at this point as he wants to make sure that what ever he does is the best thing for the customer. He will never use the Valspar product again. Any recommendations for products to use for stripping and getting rid of the mold is much appreciated. Also any deck stain recommendations. Thanks for your help in advance.
The pictures are out of order in the above post. The 1st picture is from March 2020, the 2nd is from the application of the stripper yesterday, and the last two are of the new deck last August.
A stripper should kill the mold. Is he removing all of the Valspar with the current stripper?
He’s not sure what to do. Wondered if the Sherwin Williams stripper was good enough, or was there something better for him to use? If the stripper kills the mold, why is there still so many black areas on the wood?
The only thing I can think of if is not mold is rust. Metal pieces in the wood will turn back once it gets wet. This happens sometimes when people steel wool their decks. Bleach kills mold. A wood brightener removes rust. Try both and see if one works.
1. 3.5 year old deck
2. Cabot Australian Timber Oil – applied @ 1 year old and again @ 2 years old
3. Going to apply same brand of stain
4. Cabot Australian Timber Oil
5. Cabot Australian Timber Oil Honey Teak
6. No mold or mildew
7. The 1st coat worked good. I believe I should have prepped better for the 2nd coat which lead to peeling and/or put another coat on sooner.
Here’s where I’m at and please bear with me as I’m new to deck maintenance. I applied a stripper and power washed off the deck. I also threw on some brightener and washed that off. The deck still has some stain spots. What is the best course of action from here? Re-stripping (and brightening) or sanding or maybe something else entirely?
Sand it. At least the floor so it is evenly removed.
We have newer wood with a sikkens semi transparent Light stain. It didn’t age like we had hoped. Looking at getting the light walnut stain. What would be the best prep for the deck?
Strip and brighten the wood.
Deck restoration guidance please
Sorry, I hit send too soon. We have a deck with 3 year old cedar top; currently coated with solid stain, which is peeling significantly; I’m interested in changing coatings to one that lasts longer; would prefer to be able to color match but that’s not a requirement; current stain is Sherwin Williams Superdeck solid water-based stain, in color 7054. I live in the Pacific NW, so some mildew issues. Current stain was placed on bare wood that we believe was properly prepared.
Thanks.
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest of the peeling stain. You can cover the stain that is not peeling with a new coat: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Hi, I purchased a house with this deck, attached. I have no experience cleaning, staining or identity the wood deck. Can you please let me know whats the best clean/strip and stain for this deck? I live in Ontario, Canada. Thank you so much!
Use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener for prep. Stain TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark of Canada.
I have a mahogany covered porch in good shape. I’m revitalizing it.
It has semi transparent stain. I can either sand or strip them brighten. I don’t like using chemicals but if it’s beat will do this one time then stain again with same product which won’t require stripping again.
So what’s best? Sand or strip and brighten?
Thanks!
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off. Brightener last.
We had our new deck done in December 2017. We waited to stain it until May 2018, and used a transparent stain & sealer in one. The stain has started to look worn in most places so we figured it was time to redo the stain. We power washed the deck this past weekend hoping to get some of the stain off. Took some off, but not a lot. We are looking at doing a semi-transparent or solid stain this time and want to know if we need to strip and sand the wood to remove the old transparent stain, or just clean it before re-staining with the semi-transparent or solid stain. Thanks in advance!
1. New Wood – 2.5 years old. Southwest facing and gets full sun for most of the day
2. Yes, has a transparent stain & sealer
3. Switching brands, looking at either a semi-transparent or solid stain
4. Currently had Thompson’s Water Seal Waterproofing Stain – Transparent in Harvest Gold
5. Water-based, transparent
6. Small amount on a few boards that are under a tree, easily cleaned off
7. Some boards are looking worn, want to refresh the deck. Also had a tulip tree that produced a sap that has left black residue on parts of the deck. We were able to get some of it off the surface but it appears to have seeped into the wood so would like to try and cover it
8. photos attached
Strip and brighten fully off if you want to use a semi-transparent. Clean and brighten if you want to use a solid stain.
Great, thank you! Some areas need sanding after the power washing, should we sand before or after using the brightener?
Before.
New Wood or Older Wood? Older, west facing, full-sun deck
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? Yes, Sherwin Williams Super Deck Solid Stain, water-based, which was last applied 2 years ago and started peeling within 8 months of application. It was applied by a professional who was covering a previous solid stain. Surface prep included power washing, spot sanding some areas, then 2 coatings of the Sherwin Williams Super Deck.
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? We are open to whatever you suggest. Probably sticking with a solid stain would be easiest.
Mold or Mildew Issues? No
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? Poor quality product applied? Poor surface prep? Harsh conditions?
Pressure wash with a stripper to remove the loose stain. Let dray and spot sand as needed. You can cover the intact stain with a new coat of solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/