This post was updated on April 2, 2026
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior wood decking. My Restore-A-Deck Wood stain review is based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top deck stain tips. See here for more info about me.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Review
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is a water-based penetrating stain designed to provide good color retention while still allowing the wood to breathe. It is a newer generation stain compared to traditional oils and is designed to be more environmentally friendly while still delivering solid performance.
From my experience restoring decks since 1993, Restore-A-Deck performs best for homeowners who want a balance between ease of use, durability, and longer-lasting color. It does not penetrate as deeply as oil-based stains like TWP, but it makes up for that with better UV resistance and more consistent color.
In 2017, our first full year using the Restore A Deck stain, we had no performance issues and saved a tremendous amount of time by prep and stain on the same day. We will continue to offer the Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain as one of our go-to decking stains for the 2026 restoration season.
Overall, Restore-A-Deck is a very good choice for those looking for a low-maintenance, water-based stain that performs well across a variety of wood types.
Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. Applying to damp wood allows you to prep and stain on the same day, saving you a tremendous amount of time.
8.63 Overall Rating Restore-A-Deck Stain
🔹 Quick Verdict

Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Quick Review
- Best For: Homeowners wanting better color retention and easy maintenance
- Not Ideal For: Those wanting maximum penetration on older wood
- Type: Water-based penetrating stain
- My Overall Rating: 8.63/10
My Take:
Restore-A-Deck is one of the better-performing water-based stains I have used. It offers solid durability and color retention while still being relatively easy to maintain.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain Description
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects the wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, and the ability to apply to damp wood. All this is available in five beautiful semi-transparent colors highlighting the natural wood grain.
RAD Wood and Deck Stain will increase all exterior wood surfaces’ life, appearance, and durability. With the easy-to-apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you’ll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Ratings (1-10)
How I Rated Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain
My Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain review contains an 8-step process and the final average score. Each step is on a scale of 1-10.
- The appearance of Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain after Application
- Preventing UV Graying
- Peeling or Wearing
- Cost Per Square Foot
- Preventing Mold and Mildew
- How Easy was the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain Application
- Color Shifting
- Ease of Reapplication
- Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain Final Score
8-Step Review of Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain & Sealer
1. Appearance After Initial Stain Application: 8
The Restore-A-Deck wood stain color we used was the Semi-Transparent Light Walnut. The initial appearance was a rich brown with a hint of red (see pictures below) after drying. The Restore-A-Deck Stain penetrated extremely well into the wood grain on our test deck. No surface film on top of the wood.
2. Preventing UV Graying at 2 Year Mark: 9
Restore-A-Deck had little to no fading at the 2-year mark. Excellent color retention should be achieved through years 2-3 as well based on initial pictures and testing. See below for a picture.

Restore A Deck Stain Two Years
3. Wear/Tear and Peeling: 9
At the 2-year mark, there was no wearing or peeling.
4. Cost Per Square Foot: 8
We applied two coats to our 150 sq foot deck, including all railings and steps. Less than 1 gallon was used for this at a total cost of $40. This equates to $.30 a square foot. Very reasonable pricing and better than most other top brands.
5. Preventing Mold/Mildew/Algae: 10
Like other water-based deck stains, the Restore-A-Deck Wood stain will not promote mold or mildew growth. This is one of the primary advantages of using a water-based coating. At the 1-year mark, the deck showed no signs of any mold or mildew.
6. Ease of Application: 9
Our favorite aspect of the Restore-A-Deck Wood stain is the ability to stain and prep on the same day! We tested this by cleaning and brightening the wood with the Step 1 and Step 2 Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kit and then applying the RAD stain 1 hour after the prep. The wood was visibly wet on a few deck areas and damp to the touch throughout. The Restore-A-Deck actually applied more easily to the damp wood than any other water-based stain that we have used previously. We also found that the coverage was better when applied to damp wood. In theory, the stain will absorb better when applied to damp wood. The water “swells” the wood pores and “pulls” the stain deep into the wood as it dries. Applying to damp wood will also help avoid potential issues with Applying a Deck Stain in Full Sun.
See before and after pictures below.

Restore A Deck Stain After Prep

Restore A Deck Stain Damp Wood Application
7. Color Shifting (darkening) after 2 Years: 8
As expected, the Restore-A-Deck stain darkened very little and did not shift color. See the picture at the 2-year mark above.
8. Difficulty of Reapplication: 8
The Restore-A-Deck will be an easy clean and reapplication as needed.
Overall Score Restore-A-Deck Stain at 1-Year Period: 8.63
– The Restore-A-Deck is an awesome exterior wood stain and has shown the ability to outperform other water-based and oil-based wood stains. Restore-A-Deck’s 3-Step system allows you to save time and money when restoring your exterior wood and decking. No other system that we have used or tested has allowed the ability to Prep and Stain in the Same Day. If you are looking for the future of exterior wood and deck stain, consider the Restore A Deck Wood Stain and their prepping system.
Product Information:
More Info: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
Cost: $47.99 per Gallon, $219.99 per 5 Gallon Pail. Products ship free on their website.
Stain Type: Semi-Transparent Water-Based
Available Colors: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut, Cottage gray
Application Temperature: 45-95 F
Coats Required: 2 Coats. “Wet on Wet” for older wood. New wood = 1 Coat.
Coverage Per Gallon: 100-150 sq. ft
Application Tools: Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time: 2-4 Hours
Cleanup: Water
VOC Compliant: 50 VOC Compliant in all States
More Info: Product Data
Manufacturer: Restore-A-Deck
Test Deck Stats:
Deck Wood Type: Pressure Treated Pine
Deck Square Footage: 150 Square feet
UV Exposure: 50% Full Sun
How Many Years Tested: 2 Years
Stain Color Used: Light Walnut
🔹 Pros and Cons
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Pros
- Easy to apply with consistent results
- Better UV protection compared to most oil-based stains
- Holds color longer than many penetrating oils
- Low VOC and environmentally friendly formula
- Easy to clean and recoat with proper prep
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Cons
- Does not penetrate as deeply as oil-based stains
- Can sit more on the surface if over-applied
- Requires proper prep to avoid uneven absorption
- May not perform as well on very old, dry wood compared to oils
🔹 Best Wood Types for Restore-A-Deck
Best Wood Types for Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
- Cedar: Very good color uniformity and protection
- Pressure Treated Pine: Excellent overall performance when prepped correctly
- Redwood: Good color enhancement and durability
- Very old, dry wood – penetrates very well
- Hardwoods (IPE, Cumaru, etc.) – excellent color retention
👉 See: Deck Stain for New Wood
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
🔹 Real-World Testing & Photos
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Real World Testing
Below are examples of Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain applied to different wood types and how it performs over time.
These are from actual field applications and testing. As with any stain, results will vary depending on prep, wood condition, and exposure.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Application Tips
- Always apply to clean, properly prepped wood
- Do not over-apply, as this can lead to uneven drying
- Apply thin, even coats for best results
- Back-brush or pad for uniform coverage
- Applying to damp wood is easiest
👉 How to Stain a Deck
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-stain-a-deck/
🔹 Maintenance & Recoat Tips
One of the advantages of Restore-A-Deck is its balance between durability and ease of maintenance.
- Recoat every 24 months depending on exposure
- Clean and brighten the wood before reapplying
- Avoid letting the coating fully wear off
- Light maintenance coats will extend the life of the finish
From my experience, keeping up with maintenance will help maintain color and avoid heavier prep down the road.
👉 Deck Cleaning and Brightening
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/cleaning-wood-deck/
🔹 Who Should Use Restore-A-Deck?
Who Should Use Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain
You should consider Restore-A-Deck if:
- You want better color retention than traditional oils
- You prefer a water-based, lower VOC product
- You want a stain that is relatively easy to apply and maintain
- Your wood is in good condition and properly prepped
👉 Best Deck Stains
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
🔹 FAQs
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – FAQs
How long does Restore-A-Deck last?
Typically 24 months depending on exposure and maintenance.
Does Restore-A-Deck peel or flake?
No, when applied correctly, it penetrates and wears naturally without peeling.
Is Restore-A-Deck oil or water-based?
It is a water-based penetrating stain.
Can Restore-A-Deck be used on new wood?
Yes, as long as the wood is properly prepped to allow absorption.
How does it perform in full sun?
It performs better than most oil-based stains in terms of UV protection and color retention.
🔹 Final Thoughts
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is a solid choice for homeowners looking for a balance between durability, color retention, and ease of use. While it does not penetrate as deeply as traditional oil-based stains, it offers better UV protection and longer-lasting color.
From my hands-on experience working with deck stains for over 30 years, this is one of the better water-based options available, especially for newer or well-maintained wood.
If you prep the wood correctly and stay on top of maintenance, Restore-A-Deck can provide consistent and reliable results without the issues associated with film-forming coatings.
*All products tested and results are from our experience. We offer no guarantee of similar results. Consider that results may differ due to different wood types, exposure to UV radiation, and natural weathering.
How To Restore Your Deck All in One Day – DeckStainHelp.com





I cleaned and prepped my new deck 2 yrs ago with Restore a deck products and semi transparent cedar stain. It looked great. I need to do it again soon. It doesn’t look too bad, but is a little “thin” in spots. I probably didn’t get enough stain on it. What steps do you recommend for me to use to restore the beautiful color I had. I love the product.
Hi Linda, can you reply back and post some pics in the comments for prep help?
I applied the this product to a new deck this weekend, with great results. I was able to mostly complete a 750+ sq. foot deck by myself.
I was extremely surprised how much much dirt and grime came off of new kiln dried cedar after only 3 months of being installed. Although it was a bit of work scrubbing the deck boards, I am so glad that I used as I had no idea that the boards were are dirty as they were.
Anyways, now for my question, do you have a suggestion for a product to remove any stain that may have gotten on metal railing/trim?
I saw the video of someone suggesting goof-off graffiti remover. My worry with this product is that is it pressurized and I don’t want overspray to hit the deck.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Goof or similar works best. They have some that are not aerosol.
The deck looks great!
I absolutely can honestly say this restoration product(s) are the best I have ever used. We live in PA. I followed all the directions to the tee. I applied the SOLID stain on 20 yr old deck wood, which was in poor shape. Nothing worked previously, even when it was professionally done with their materials, we would have chipping and peeling after the first Winter. I applied this during covidcation last March/April because we had a warm beginning of Spring. This was not hard to apply but we did everything that was recommended, along with some sanding. We were in communication by email with this company almost every other day asking a question or two. They returned a reply sometimes within 10 min. Then if we had additional questions they answered them and referred us to other research material to help us. They were great to deal with even though you didn’t talk over the phone with them. Like I said, we applied this and then wondered if it was going to start peeling by the Fall. Nope, well then definitely after the first ice storm, nope. Well, then after 3 weeks of snow fall pretty continuously. Even though we shoveled the snow off the wood deck, NO PEELING OR CHIPPING! We have a deck that gets hammered with rain, ice, hail and snow. This stuff is the best we have ever used. This Spring, we only had to hose it down with mild soapy water and that’s it. We really appreciate when something actually works the way it’s advertised. This would out sell anything in the stores if it were sold their. I am in awe by this product(s). I am telling all my family, friends and colleagues. I hope you don’t sell out because of word of mouth advertising. It is GREAT COMPANY WITH GREAT PRODUCTS!!! Thank you!!
Please send a pic and let us know what color you used. Thank you!
This is the start of our third year and we are still amazed by good it looks with no chipping and peeling. We used the taupe, solid stain originally. Apply this according to the directions and you won’t regret it. This Summer we will use their cleaner and sand it all lightly and apply another coat or two, just for good measure. We don’t want to go through the whole process with stripping again, so this is the easiest method to maintain it. We truly love our deck and would not replace it, at this time since there is no visible rot from above. We cannot see underneath, so maybe years ahead that would be the area that may cause it’s destruction. Until then, we are very pleased with it’s look. Sorry, if the following picture isn’t the best, I just now took it, after a rain storm, early this morning.
Take care, have fun and be safe!
3 YEARS AND LOOKING GOOD!! Thank you so much for sharing!
We are so pleased with the Restore a Deck stain. New wood 9 months after it was installed. Process couldn’t be any easier!
All I can say is WOW! I was in a world of hurt with an oil-based sealer/stain product. Admittedly, I had applied too much when I was doing my maintenance clean & reapply after a year of the original coat. I tried stripping the oil-based coat with paint stripper, denatured alcohol, and mechanically, but I would have been at it for weeks!
Then I discovered the Restore-A-Deck webpage and read about the Restore-A-Deck water-based products: Stripper, Brightener, and Stain. I used the Stripper along with the Booster. I first tried just the Stripper, but realized that as the salesperson noted, I did indeed also need the Booster. After a second application with Booster, the deck came out beautifully! I then applied Natural Stain (after waiting a day – ran out of daylight!). The deck looks fantastic! I hadn’t expected the gentle satin or eggshell finish, but it was a nice surprise! Cleanup, being all water-based, was a breeze, and I didn’t end up with lots of environmentally unfriendly run-off.
Hats off to the Restore-A-Deck company! Great products, easy to use, with fantastic results! What more can I say?
Just cleaned and brightened my 2 year old pressure treated pine deck. Then applied the light walnut stain, all from Restore A Deck. It looks great.
Post a picture or two if you have time.
Will do.
Ken, can you try the pictures again when you have time. The issue with uploading images has been fixed.
Here are some photos.
Looks really good!
What shade color is this
Light Walnut
What color stain is shown in photos?
Light Walnut
Some more photos.
Will a semi-solid stain provide enough cover so that the fact that a deck is made up of different type of woods wouldn’t be obvious – say treated wood and standard cedar? Both have some knots and grain showing? I am considering Cabot semi-solid driftwood.
You would need a solid stain if you want it all to blend.
Hi,
I am looking for the best product to restain our mahogany porch. I happen to have TWP in “dark oak” and Restore a Deck in “natural” in our garage. Not sure which one to use or if there is something else we should buy. I saw a “This Old House” vidow clip where they used a PPG product in “natural”. Please advise.
Thanks Carla
Either the RAD or the TWP would work for this. PPG not so much.
Can I use Gemini Restore-A-Deck cleaner kit to prep the surface (this is for a playground) for Restore-A-Deck stain?
(or is restore-a-deck cleaner kit needed)?
You should be able to use the Gemini version.
Can Restore-A-Deck be used on new wood?
After weather and prep, yes: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Sorry, there is plenty of advice on this site.
Thank you for answering my lengthy question earlier. You suggested that I use RAD for deck floorboards. However, you did not indicate if this stain could be tinted to match the color specks required by my homeowners association, which is a dark gray. Would I be better off to buy this at a paint store that can do the tinting for me? If this stain cannot be tinted, which stain would you recommend? Thank you!
You cannot custom tint a semi-transparent stain for the floors. You can custom tint the solid stain for the railings. There are not any dark gray semi-transparent stains that we know of.
Thank you. What about ANY gray colored semi-transparent stains?
If my ONLY option is to use a semi-solid that can be tinted, would RAD still be the best option and would the best way to protect the deck be to reapply it annually?
RAD does not make a semi-solid and honestly, we do not know of any quality semi-solid stains that can be tinted.
There are pre-tinted gray semi-transparent stains but they do not come in dark gray. More light gray or medium gray. RAD makes one.
Thank you for your quick responses and helpful advice! I’ll check that out! Somehow missed that option.
You can try combining their gray (which is a bit bright) with a smaller amounts dark walnut to get a somewhat darker gray with a hint of brown: about 2 or 3 parts gray plus 1 part dark walnut seems about the maximum. Much more darkk walnut and the color turns into a muddy dark grown or charcoal color. Get their samples and run some tests. Adding cedar or light walnut to the gray j makes a beige color. .
Used restore-a-deck last spring and deck looked great. After the winter, deck finish is starting to fade and some graying occurring.
How do I tackle the update with RAD now;
clean and re-stain.
OR,
clean, brighten and re-stain?
Thank you!
Clean and then stain.
Can this product be tinted with universal pigments to match the blue color on my deck?
No, that is not possible.
Hi, we just built a new cedar deck. Do we need to wait before staining and sealing the deck, posts, railings and spindles? If so why do we need to wait? What is the best clear seal to use? Will the natural colour of the wood change with a clear seal? Is it better for a colour semi transparent? Thank you
Yes you need to wait: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
You must have a tinted sealer (not clear) if you want to protect the wood from graying in a matter of months. Use a stain like the RAD Stain in the above article.
i have a log home that has been sitting untreated for the last 15 years. it was grooved deeply from wrong pressure cleaner tip being used. it also has been weathering ever since the pressure cleaning. i am in the process of sanding down past the grooves and into fresh wood. my logs are not traditional round logs but actually a 5 in square log. will this product work well on the house or is it basically a deck stain
it will work great on wood siding and logs.
Your information states that ONE gallon only covers 100-150 Sq. ft. My cedar deck is roughly 400 Sq ft and I’ve always been able to cover the entire deck using ONE gallon of oil based stain. I’ve used Cabots, Penefin & Super Deck, (duck back). Why does your product require so much material?
Almost all deck stains have a coverage rater of 150-250 sq feet per gallon for one coat. None we have ever seen will properly cover a deck at 400 sq feet per gallon. You are applying way to thin.
Hi – great info on your site.
I have several questions and issues.
I want to use RAD. This 600 sq’ deck adjoining the mobile home In NE Montana I just bought has wood in varying states of previous treatment, wear, and new rail boards – all in rough shape.
1) if I don’t want to take everything down to the same extent of bare wood, do I need a solid stain? Is solid stain not as good as semi-transparent for wear & tear and longevity? A few pics are included, I hope.
2) with these splits showing on the railing, can RAD rejuvenate the wood enough or do I need to use some filler/bonder (“plastic wood”). If I don’t want to replace the boards, what is next best?
3) the vertical rail-support 4x4s are split by weather, neglect, and end screwing. Can I apply heavily and/or pour RAD into the end grain and allow it to run along the heavily weathered raised-grain sides.
4) along the dripline of the roof and also next to the metal siding especially there is green growth.
5) I just bought a 1750 psi, 1.3 gpm electric power washer – is that adequate to strip and clean deck, rails and posts? The mossy growth and seeds.
Please excuse so many questions. I’m a bit overwhelmed by the size this task seems to be.
1. Yes, you will need a solid stain unless you fully remove the current stain.
2. Do not use wood filler on a deck. It will not work. Best to just leave as is. They are not an issue.
3. No, they will not work or fill anything.
4. Prep should remove this.
5. If you use a proper deck cleaner and wood brightener then yes.
Thanks.
Is it clear from the photos that what is on there now is stain and not paint? Is it clear that it is solid rather than semi transparent?
Looks like a solid stain.
Hi, again.
The very rough railing’s existing finish is a solid stain of *unknown brand.* (The deck floor is bare wood and I will use the cleaner and brightener.) If I replace the railing finish with restore a deck solid as I plan, the product says I should strip to bare wood. To do that completely in all the nooks and crannies is of course a very labor intensive job, with a lot of chemical stripper dripping about, I suppose. At this time I can’t do that, though it needs care badly.
1) If I pressure wash and sand the surface but don’t strip it to bare wood, is it known how bad the adhesion or the curing of the new finish will be? I am wondering though it is unfortunate that it is not in the cards for me at this time to do it fully right, am I stuck with not doing this at all?
2) Though not optimal, though it might not last as long, *might* it be adequate? Or will it *for sure* not cure right or not adhere? Does it depend on the other product’s brand? Is there something so chemically unusual and proprietary with restore a deck’s formulation it will be a severe chemical incompatibility? Or just a less than optimal bonding?
3) When I order on the phone, the representative makes a very big deal about this. They don’t just say that they couldn’t guarantee it, but tell some sort of horror stories. Though ideally they are right – do it right – but since I can’t I don’t know how much to weigh the marketing language from what will actually happen. I’m trying to get an idea if it will surely be a catastrophe that I have to deal with or will it just not last long or not look so good? Or what?
4) Is this the same kind of difficulty I’d have if someone had used, say, a Cabot solid stain and then, not knowing, later I used say a Behr or Benjamin Moore? Or is restore a deck really unusual chemically in this way?
I know that you mainly help people to improve their decks the proper way, but thanks for giving these questions and my dilemma your best experienced opinion and guesses. Sincerely, d
You are making a bigger deal out of this than needed. You really have two choices, sand off 100% or cover with a solid stain. Either way, it will be fine, it will fail eventually in 2-3 years and will need to be recoated then.
You gave me a good laugh – yes, maybe in trying to understand and prepare myself I may make to a deal about imagined details. Hahaha. Thanks for your reply!
I have power washed and applied a deck cleaner and when reviewing selections for a semi transparent stain I read that you can’t apply stain to new wood for 4-6 months. I had to replace about six boards. I wanted to complete this project. What do you suggest?
Best to wait until Fall. Prep and stain then.
I am trying to choose between the TWP and the RAD products for my house siding that I am putting up in two weeks. I have rough sawn hemlock that is going in board and batten style. I want to keep mildew off, so I need a stain that will prevent that. Overhangs will keep the siding pretty dry, but it will get plenty of sun and I am in MA so it is still humid.
My concerns:
– Am I going to have to strip all 1000 sq ft of siding every few years when I have to re-coat the stain, or can I just paint over the existing stain to strengthen the coat?
-Most people recommend staining all 6 sides of a board when it is used for siding to mainatin stability, so I would need to stain before the boards go up. Do you recommend this for these products?
-For the rough sawn wood and siding applications, which is product do you recommend, the TWP or RAD? I am going with a lighter color, basically want it to stay bright, some graying is OK, just don’t want it to turn too dark. (I am leaning towards RAD because I like the wet application and the less offensive water based aroma!)
Thanks for your time!
Oh my, I just saw that one of my questions was already answered below with Dave Hertzberg! Looks like I don’t need to strip before re-applying! I thought the water based finish might behave differently.
-Do not stain all sides, just the exposed wood after install. The wood needs to breathe and there is no advantage to staining all sides.
-Either would work well.
I’m trying to choose a stain to redo my deck. I was all set on TWP but it just seems like it will be impossible to wait for two no-rain days after sanding and brightening. So the idea of being able to stain while the wood is damp is very appealing.
My question is about redoing the deck whenever it needs to be redone. Right now I had
Benjamin Moore Arborcoat which I know you don’t recommend. My understanding is that I had to strip the current stain off before applying new stain, even the same one. First of all, can you confirm this is true? I hope so after I spent all that time!
But more important, is that true of RAD as well? When I read about the oil stains it seemed like one big advantage was the ease of redoing it after a few years. But with RAD it seems like maybe this is also true so now I’m confused. Basically I do NOT want to have to go through this whole process of stripping, sanding, etc the next time I have to redo. So which stain would work best for me now? Thanks!!!
Also…how soon after staining can I put furniture on? I have to do half the deck then put furniture back on the stained half to do the other half.
The RAD and the TWP are penetrating stains so they do not have to be stripped when reapplying the same stain. Just clean and brighten for prep. Both can be stripped though if ever needed very easily.
Where can you purchase Restore A Deck products?
Check with their website. http://www.restore-a-deck.com
RM
I power-washed my deck with Oxyclean in warm water which I learned from the internet. I believe it is pressure treated pine about 9 yrs old.The color is now light like pine with no dirt left on it. I don’t believe it had any coating on it but was just built before they sold me the house. I can see a slight white haze here and there, which I think is some Oxyclean that I didn’t rinse enough. Can I just rinse well and then proceed tothe instructions for “Restore a Deck” stain? Or must I use brightener first? Thanks.
Post some pictures.
Hi again,
These photos are without the sun. The wood is dry since I power-washed 6 days ago. I plan to rinse again to remove white residue of Oxyclean before using “”Restore a Deck”stain.
Need Brightener or not?
Thank you
A brightener would help to neutralize.
Define wet on wet Application
See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-instructions-for-wet-on-wet/
Define wet on wet
I’m so confused! I’ve read review after review, and get more confused! We have a 30 yr old deck that had a solid stain that was peeling. We’ve spent 3 weeks power washing and sanding. We have removed most all the old stain, no glossy spots and barely any color here and there. We want something that last, we’re seniors and its taken a lot to get this far. Would like to use water base for the ease, can we use semi transparent, semi solid, what brand? HELP PLEASE
Posts some pictures.
Picture
Another piccture
You will need a solid stain again as you have not fully removed the current coating: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Such a great site, I’m learning a lot for my deck restoration. I have a 30 year old deck which is solid. I used the dreaded Behr Deckover 6 years ago over what was over another Behr solid stain that the previous homeowner had used a couple years before. I have no idea what was used before 8 years ago, but there were a bunch of oil based stains in the basement when we moved in. I’m sanding the entire deck to bare wood. Should I use a stripper afterwards or can I go directly to RAD cleaner/brightener and then use RAD semi-transparent stain? Thank you.
If you get it all off and then go to the cleaner and brightener.
Perfect, thank you!
Pressure washed our 6 year old deck for the first time in 6 years. The deck has never been stained or anything yet. What would you recommend as next steps? Also which which would you go with, RAD stain or Defy? Having a hard time deciding between the two.
Looks good to stain. Use th RAD.
Can one use a spray gun to apply restore a deck light walnut stain (after waiting 3 months) to a new pressure treated pine deck? Will the stain absorb using this application method?
If you spray you will need to back brush to ensure an even application and penetration into the wood grain. See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Thank you so much for your quick response. I really appreciate it. Can I use the following brush from Restore A Deck for back brushing if we spray? If not, what brush do you recommend for back brushing to ensure an even application and penetration?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-staining-brush/flypage.tpl.html
That should work.
Thank you very much.
Stained my back deck last summer with Restore-a-deck cedar. Looked great for first couple months but started to fade over the winter. Some parts had help up ok over on the side.
Prior to staining I had pressure washed and used their brightener.
Any thoughts on what we went wrong? Do I need to start over and do it all again?
Just clean and recoat. Looks like you had issues with flash drying due to surface temps being very high. Never fully soaked in. When you recoat, do it in a cooler time of the day.
Thank you.
Super hot the day I did it. Knew it could be a problem but was the only day I could for a few months.
By clean, what exactly do you mean?
Use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener. BTW, RAD has an article that explains the potential issues with hot decks. It is on their website. Really any stain can have an issue if the wood surface is too hot.
Is it totally necessary to use the RAD cleaner and/or brightener before using RAD semi transparent stain? We have thoroughly and meticulously power washed the deck and the wood looks great. Not sure if we can skip the cleaner and just use the brightener, or if we even need the brightener. We have an older treated lumber deck. We purchased the sample stains from RAD, and the places where we tested it with only the power washing look good. The deck has never had any stain on it so nothing needed stripping. Thanks for your advice!
Post a picture of your prep.
Where can I buy this product in Mississaugua,Canada
Check with their website.
I’ve just applied one coat of Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Clear Stain Latex Based to my boat dock deck. Picture attached. It’s made of pressure treated wood. 18 months new. First sealer coat. I brushed it on, thoroughly, getting into every crack, crevasse and pore. Then I read your reviews and I’m now regretting it. Can I apply a second coat of Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Latex Clear Stain over it and reap the benefits from this superior product? Or should I use a oil-based second coat and if yes, what product? Or should I just forget about it? Lastly, if I can go over the first coat with another product, can I roll it on instead of brushing it in? Thanx for your help. Pictures attached.
No, you cannot apply anything over it. You will have to remove the SuperDeck first.
Use a stain pad to apply, not a roller.
Well – apparently from a previous post, I cannot apply an overcoat of RAD. Guess I’ll have to wait 3 or 4 years until it just wears off. Dang! Thanx.
we have used Armstrong in the past and last about 2-3 years. Will the Restore a Deck work on our 20 year old deck?
As long as you prep by stripping and brightening the wood with the Restore A Deck Kits, you can then use the RAD Stain.
What preperation do you recmmend to preper a deck previously done with latex stain
Depends on the brand and type of stain? Pictures would help.
Can this stain be tinted to a dark brown colour?
No, it cannot.
Restored our deck in 2 days. We were removing an old oil based stain and I wish I had known about the booster when I had ordered as we had some trouble with the old stain in some spots. Be careful with the stripper! When spraying my husband did get some mild chemical irritation on his face! All in all the products did an amazing job and I hope that the results last! Our wood was in horrible shape and it looks new! Careful with over application– also on the deck boards a stain pad was not working for me so I would recommend either purchasing the RAD deck brush or use a Wooster bravo 4 inch deck stain brush as well as small brushes made for stain for vertical surfaces/small crevices. The process did take us awhile but hopefully now that we have RAD stain on our deck, the prepping process will go much smoother especially since we can clean in lieu of stripping. Make sure to follow their recommendations! Tried to upload before and after pics but having trouble.
I will be staining and sealing a raised vegetable garden planter box. Well he cured product Leach harmful chemicals into the soil?
No, not once cured.
I want to stain and seal a raised garden planter box. I was wondering if the cured product will Leach toxic chemicals into the soil where I will be planting vegetables for human consumption.
Is natural a stain or a sealer I have a 280 sf deck finished late last summer . Built with larch I have heard it is easier to maintain using sealer every year to you have to strip stain every 2 years or just clean and reapply thanks Rod
Natural color is tinted. You can clean and reapply as needed. Sealers that are clear will not provide UV protection.
Does this need any kind of sealant on top?
You cannot add a sealer over a deck stain. No need.
Northern VA
Morning, afternoon sun in summer
New PT pine
Unsure of mildew. Deck is ground level at one end and is on sloping lot and goes to about 2 1/2 feet off of ground at other end. Will have ventilation.
Thank you so much for your site. There is so much information on stains on other sites that don’t hold up but others give rave reviews. ?
Our deck is 700 sq ft. Built 11/2019. We have a “side” back yard where deck is. We have built in benches. They were built 3/2020, approx 35 ft total, on one side of deck and will install rough sewn pine privacy fence on opposite side of deck from benches. The fence will attach to the deck. We put a preservative on fence boards as they were not treated. They are very dry.
I ordered 2 kits of RAD cleaner, brightener and 10 gallons cedar semi transparent stain. I would like to stain privacy fence and benches light walnut for some contrast. What do you think?
I recently had to sand those pesky ink stamps off of benches and a few deck boards so will have to wait a bit before staining.
For the privacy fence boards, do I still clean and brighten? Besides using a sprayer for stain, what would be the best way to apply stain to rough fence? Also, the preservative on fence boards is greenish. There are a few drip marks on boards that are darker green Will stain cover the greenish color?
Deck is wet in the first picture.
Thank you
See here for new wood tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
A contrast in colors will look nice. You will have to lightly prep the fence. Same products as the deck. Not sure if stain will cover the green.
TCW, I’m also in Northern VIrginia with two sets of steps built of new PT pine in late 2018 and never stained. They still look good, but I want to protect them. I had trouble finding any source to purchase Restore-a-Deck stain, but it looks like I can order online directly from their website.
I have an old deck attached to a new deck ( Installed last June). I’m thinking about priming the old deck so that I can stain both decks the same color. Do I need to use the primer on the old deck to get a color match with the new deck?
You cannot use a primer on a deck prior to using a deck stain. The only way to get them to match is to use a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Thank You. I was planning on lightly sanding the old deck and then applying a primer. I want to use a semi-solid stain for both decks. Any suggestions on how to best prep the old deck so it will match the new deck?
You cannot use a primer and the only way to match is a solid stain. Semi-solid will not work to match.
I applied one coat of Restore- a-deck to a newly sanded cedar deck last Fall as you advised. It weathered the winter pretty well except where it wore off over the knots in the wood. I was planning on cleaning/brightening the deck and applying stain this Spring. My question is whether I should apply one or two coats?
One coat.
Restraining a cabin that was done with Sherwim Williams semi transparent stain several years ago. Think it is oil base. Can Restore A Deck go over this without stripping? Thanks!
No, you have to strip it no matter what if switching brands of semi-transparent.
Can I use a roller to apply the wood stain?
Not this stain. You would need a stain pad or brush.
Hi, I’m trying to rehab an old deck, at least 30 years old. I power washed it in the Winter but could not get to it until now. Sanded the railings the other day w/ 80 grit. Hoping to stain asap but don’t know whether I need a solid stain or a semi-transparent. Love the way these RAD semi-transparent stains look but I’m worried it isn’t solid enough. I’m less excited about their solid colors. Can you tell from these images whether the previous stain was solid or not? The power washer was able to get down to the wood in many spots but was very patchy in others. Thanks for your help!
The old stain is a semi-transparent but you cannot cover what you have on there now with another semi-transparent unless you remove the rest.
Ok, thanks! Could I go over it with a solid stain?
Yes, you can.
Where can I get this product?
Check with their website.
Hello! We have a 10 year old deck in pretty good shape. About 5-6 years ago we painted it a brown solid stain color using Cabot solid stain. It’s worn but brown is still pretty visible, especially on vertical railings. We did sand lightly and pressure wash. Can we paint any color solid stain over it or do we have to stick with brown. And can we use Restore-A-Deck solid stain or do we have to use Cabot again? Thank you.
You can use a different brand of solid stain.
We previously used defy semi transport stain 2 years ago. Can I apply restore a deck over it or do we have to strip it first?
You will need to strip and brighten the wood when switching brands.
Will it also require sanding? Or is removing a water based semi transparent stain with the RAD stripper enough?
No, you do not have to sand.
Hello. I have a newly installed PT deck that’s been weathering now for 6 months. Ill be cleaning, brightening, and using RAD semi transparent stain. My question is, can I apply two coats, as I prefer a darker finish? I ask because it’s only been weathering for 6 months. Also, if I’m able to apply two wet on wet coats, any suggestions for me walking on the wet stain? I’m afraid of leaving foot prints while applying the second coat.
Thanks.
No, only one coat for new wood.
We ordered the samples and are trying to decide between light walnut and cedar, are there any advantages to either? I’m wondering if the walnut might start to show age sooner?
No advantage or disadvantage to either.
Will this seal/protect as well as stain?
Thank you!
Yes, it will.
I had a new deck built of pressure treated lumber last October. I am planning to use the Restore a deck system for prep and 1 coat of stain . There are some small stamps.on the wood throughout the deck as pictured. Do you recommend I try to strip this off or lightly sand? And if so, what grit do you recommend? Thanks
See here for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/
I’m deciding between the cedar or natural stain from restore a deck. I’ll be treating easter aromatic cedar and would like to keep its redish/purple tint if at all possible. I’m currently weathering the wood, like you suggest, then will prep and stain. Do you recommend buying one color over the other? Thank you!
No, not really. Get some samples to test on your wood type so you can then make a proper decision.
can this be applied over behr quick dry oil finish applied last year
No. Whenever you switch brands of semi-transparent stain you will need to remove the previous coating. The good news is that this Behr Quick Dry Oil is easy to strip off: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
I am looking for a stain on a redwood deck. It was rough cut and originally stained with a solid stain that has cracked and peeled. We live in the redwood forest on the coast of Northern California, so there was a lot of mold, black patches and algae on the wood because some areas simply do not get much sun along with the previous stain failing. I am still working on removing the stain as it is so difficult! I am teetering between the restore-a-deck semi-transparent stain and the twp semi-transparent stain. I noticed that even TWP has linseed oil. Doesn’t that promote mildew? It RAD a good product for this deck or would you prefer an oil-based?
The RAD would work great but you will have to remove the solid stain 100% first.