This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi! I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stain stripping. My wood deck cleaning/stripping help tips are based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner
I appreciate your input at Deckstainhelp.com as we continue to be your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. See below for an article about When to use a Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner.
Feel free to leave me a comment or ask questions below.
Strip or Clean the Deck
Why use a Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner
One of the biggest rookie mistakes I often see is someone applying a stain to a deck that has not been properly prepped. When you’ve stained a deck a few times before, you learn that dirt, mildew, mold, or graying should not be present when you apply the stain, or it will end in disaster.
Only a clean, well-prepared surface can correctly absorb the stain and allow it to perform just as you want and need it to. Cleaning the wood thoroughly before undertaking staining has the added bonus of making it look even more beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
I recommend two different products for the job: a “Deck Stripper” and a “Deck Cleaner.” They are both designed to properly prep the wood and clean it thoroughly before staining begins.
Deck Stripper or Deck Cleaner?
There is a simple method to determine whether you should use a Deck Stripper or Cleaner, as it all revolves around the wood’s surface. Older, grubby, and grayed wood just needs a quality wood cleaner. A Deck Wood Cleaner is powerful enough to get rid of most dirt and mildew stains; however, a stripper might be needed for more heavy-duty preparation.
Often, when staining your deck, you will need to remove the remaining old stain, which can be stubborn. In this case, the Deck Stripper should be used instead of the Deck Cleaner. The useful advantage of strippers is that they will soften and ‘melt’ most stains, making them easy to wash or wipe away. On top of that, Deck Strippers cleans off mildew and graying, too. There’s no reason to use a cleaner after!
Brighten the Wood After Stripping or Cleaning
Another common mistake I often see is not using a wood brightener to neutralize the wood after using the deck cleaner or deck stripper. Brighteners are an integral part of the restaining process. They lower the pH of the boards and allow the pores to ‘breathe,’ making them more accepting and open to absorbing your new stain.
If you’re having trouble figuring out whether your deck has been stained in the past, please post a picture below.
Best Deck Cleaner or Stripper Articles
- What are the Best Deck Cleaners
- The Best Deck Stain Strippers
- Why Brighten After Deck Stripping
- How To Remove a Solid Color Deck Stain
My How To Strip A Deck Stain Video
Apologies if this is a duplicate post, but my first is not showing in the thread below like my second one is. My deck issue is sad but true. I started with a new deck, weathered for ~9 months. I was getting ready to stain, and someone told me I needed to clean the mildew specks off with Oxi-Clean, which I did, but did not neutralize it before applying stain 😩. The stain seemed to look fine at first, but has since “bleached” out. The stain is blotchy and varied in color. It doesn’t look horrendous, but definitely not right. It also never completely dried 🤔. My questions are: 1) would neutralizing have any effect over top of the stain? 2) if not, what then would be the correct order of things to do? 3) Is it too late to neutralize the railings which have not been stained? All this was done this past fall.
What process is required to apply a solid stain over a transparent? Is stripping really required since both are oil-based?
Yes, you should strip to give the new stain as much adhesion and penetration as possible.
We have been trying to repaint our deck and having the worst time trying to get the paint up. I just found this site, we have tried a power washer and deck stripper to no avail. We can get some up with a wire brush but we would be scrubbing for a weeks to get all the paint up that way.
I think the previous paint job was a solid stain because the undertone red seems to have penetrated pretty deep and won’t come up without sanding. We don’t know for sure though just bought the house a year ago.
We bought a brown solid stain to go on top. Do we need to make sure all the red undertone is sanded off before we use the new solid stain? Any recommendations on getting the rest of this paint up? Should we use a different deck stripper?
You do not have to remove all of the current stain if you are covering with a new solid stain. Just make sure that all loose or peeling stain is removed by stripping or spot sanding and that the wood is clean.
Hi guys,
Lee here again. Gosh, I can build a decent deck but I can’t seem to finish it correctly and I need your advice again. So this last winter when I bought more TWP 101 Cedar from your associates, I also ordered RAD Cleaner and Brightener. However, based on our conversation below, it became apparent that I needed to strip the old stain as some of it had failed within one year. Not having time for another mail order before last weekend, I went to the big box store and got the Behr Stripper No. 64 and Cleaner/Brightener No. 63. (I know, me bad! I have since read your reviews.)
I used two different set of steps as my test areas. After letting the stripper sit for 45 minutes, I scrubbed, power washed then proceeded with the Behr Cleaner/Brightener solution for 15 minutes then power washed again. Both solutions were well shaken and both sets of steps turned out great.
So I moved on to the deck following the exact same procedures, working about 40-50 SF at a time, on a cloudy day and keeping moist. OMG, the results are awful with black areas everywhere. I noticed some, but not all, of the overlap areas seemed to be brighter so I hit it all with a second coat of Behr Stripper followed by another pressure wash rinse and then another round of Behr Cleaner/ Brightener followed by a yet another pressure wash rinse.
As you can see in the pictures, I still have black area everywhere, and even though they are less noticeable when dry, I know that if TWP 101 stain goes on, they will stand out as if they are wet. (It just rain and I just took the wet pictures – Ugly!)
I do plan on sanding with 80 grit to remove the white fuzzy, and I still have the RAD Cleaner and RAD Brightener but I need some advice as to how the black areas can be neutralized and then what steps to wrap up the prep prior to the stain. (This time I will wait at least 1 week, not 3 days for it to dry before staining.)
Thanks in advance, I’m desperate here.
Lee
You should be fine with the final prep. Lightly sand off the fuzzies and then clean and brighten the wood. When you brighten, mix a little stronger, around 10oz per gallon of water. Let it sit on the wood for 45-60 minutes and then rinse. The brightener is your friend in this case and it needs to lighten the wood internally and even it out.
Whew, thank you! I will give it a go.
Lee
Hi Deck Stain Help,
Two years ago I built a new cedar deck. Per your instructions I waited a 9 months before cleaning, brightening and staining. We used TWP 101 – cedar tone. The main deck area must have been still a little damp as the stain failed badly over the last year with a chipped appearance.
Q1: I’m assuming I need to strip this main deck area? (First three photos)
The porch area (connected) seems to have held up OK. I must not have been damp. It is dirty though, as can be expected after one year.
Q2: If I need to strip the main deck area, should I strip this porch area too or just clean it? (Last photo)
Will brighten and dry all areas before staining again with TDP 101. In hindsight, I wish I used the Restore-A-Deck as the moisture would not have been a problem. Augh!
Thank you!
Lee
Stripping is just as easy as cleaning so in this case, just strip all and then brighten as this will give the most uniform appearance. You can switch brands as well if you want.
Thank you! I already bought more TWP so I guess I will give it another go. Really appreciate the advice.
Hi, Can I get your advice on this cedar deck. I am not sure what has been done or what product types used, but its peeling, since this pic. I powerwasher it and now more stain has peeled almost like paint. Should I strip it or sand it? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Kathy
You have a solid stain. If you want it to look more natural, then you will need to remove fully by sanding. Other option is to remove just the loose stain and then cover with another coat of solid stain.
Could I use a stripper on cedar to remove the stain?
A stripper will not remove a solid stain fully. You will have to sand to get it all off.
Hello I appreciate if you can advise me what’s the best process of re-staining my deck with Armstrong-clark semi transparent redwood stain.After sanding the deck via this pic can I apply stain directly. Just so you know this deck is directly next to an in ground pool that’s why I didn’t use any chemicals the strip it
After sanding, clean and brighten the wood. This will help the AC to soak in deeper and dry better.
This site is great. I prepped my deck last spring the way I always do, pressure washed, dried thoroughly, painted in appropriate temps. I used a new product and it was terrible. Was tacky for weeks, and was peeling after 5 months. My question is, can I power wash this or should I strip first? I know if I power wash there will be paint strips everywhere. My railing is PVC so it is just the deck surface. It is about 8 years old, and I have never tried a brightener.
The Behr is on the wood like a solid stain so it will not strip off fully. Strip what you can, sand the rest off, brighten last. Using a true penetrating stain next: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
thank you!!
I have a new pine pressure treated deck installed and it should be ready for staining etc. at the end of summer. Which should I use?a deck
stripper or a deck cleaner ?
Deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. See this for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I made a picnic table out of unfinished pine 2 days ago. Stained it last night an am not happy with the color of stain. Used Thompson’s water stain/sealer. Used single coat. Should not have done the whole table but I did. What do I need to use to prep to re-stain/seal? Stripper? Is it necessary to use neutralizer after?
Post a picture for stripping help. You always have to neutralize after using a stripper.
We just had our old deck torn out and completely rebuilt a new one. All new untreated wood. I am assuming we only need to apply the wood cleaner prior to starting the staining process? We just had the deck completed on Thursday and had a heavy rain shower on Saturday, so now the wood shows signs of dirt and is wet. We know we have to wait 2-3 days to let the wood dry out before moving forward with this process. I appreciate your advice, opinions and time.
You cannot stain this yet. See here for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
I have a behr semi- transparent tint stain on my deck and I want to apply a new semi-transparent stain it’s been 2 years since I applied a coat what’s the best way to prepare the deck
Send pictures of deck please.
Here is deck picture
Strip and brighten the wood for prep. Use the Restore A Deck stripper with both additives and then brighten the wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Thank you for your help
Can I use a pump sprayer or roller to apply the stripper then the brightened
Use a pump sprayer to apply and then pressure wash off.
Really old deck, I PW’ed washed it, replaced a couple boards, and sanded it down. I cleaned a couple of boards off with Cabot wood cleaner but I cannot tell a difference. Do I really need to clean it, then apply a brightener? Or just skip the cleaning all together? The 4 boards on the far right are the ones that were cleaned.
Thank you for your help.
Yes, you need to clean and brighten all but you should not stain the new boards yet. Let them weather for about 3 months and then prep and stain all wood.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-long-should-you-wait-to-stain-a-new-deck/
Thank you!
If I don’t use a pressure washer for the stripping process will a brush do just as good at removing old stain or does the pressure washer just save time
Saves a lot of time and does a much better job as well.
Hi please can you advise me what I need to do with this decking?
No pictures were attached..
Why do I have to use a stripper to remove an old coating off my deck? Why can’t I just powerwash and then sand everything afterwards?
Pressure washing without a stripper will damage the wood and sanding is not suggested unless absolutely needed: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-sanding-a-deck-can-be-an-issue/
okay I get the PW comment, but why is sanding only used if absolutely necessary if i’m removing an old coating?
Did you read the article we sent about sanding issues?
I want to restore a deck that previously had a solid stain. The majority of the solid stain has peeled off, but its still mostly covering the railings. Can you advise me on how to proceed? Do I first sand off the remaining stain, then use deck stripper? Or the opposite, I use deck stripper than I sand the deck?
Also will I have to sand the all the floorboards here or will deck stripper be enough?
Strip off what you can using the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Let dry and then sand off the rest. Use the Restore A Deck Brightener after as final step.
Thank you so much for this info, I appreciate it. One last question, is there a certain sandpaper grade you would recommend? I was thinking something coarse like 60? Using an orbital sander
60-80 grit paper. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-sand-your-wood-deck/
We have a large screened in porch and deck that was built with pressure treated pine 2 years ago. After waiting several months it was pressured washed and stained with 1 coat of SW semi-transparent stain in a dark “charwood” color. Though not a great product we will probably stick with it for a second coat bc of the sheer size and investment we have already put in to it. The screened in portion is fine but open deck is absorbing moisture and showing signs of green and black discoloration as it is under trees and shaded a lot. Since it is new and only been stained once we know it is time for another coat. Because the color we chose is dark and because the interior is holding up fine we would like to leave it as is and only redo the stain on the exterior. For color consistency on the outside this means doing the open deck, stairs, and all exterior framing of the screened in porch. I’m getting conflicting info from painting companies regarding cleaning vs. stripping. To keep the color from darkening too much with a second coat on the outside I like the idea of stripping but I’m worried trying to apply the stripping agent on the exterior framework on the screened in porch will inevitably harm the interior framework of the screened in. The company tells me they will cover the interior with plastic but covering the framework around the screens so nothing is sprayed through seems nearly impossible to me. This company tells me the stripper is necessary with semi-transparent bc there is still a “sheen” on some of the framework (but the open decking, stairs, and rails, have definitely lost their “sheen).” Other company’s tell me stripping is not necessary.
Send pictures.
Pictures
You should be okay to clean and brighten for prep unless the finish has worn off unevenly on the floors. If so, stripping would be best.
Will stripping on the outside of the screened in porch risk damaging the stain on the inside of it?
If the stripper gets in there then yes, it will damage the current stain.
That’s what I’m worried about. I should clarify, however, this company plans to use the SW Stain Sealer Remover which also gets terrible reviews so I’m not sure how powerful that is and therefore how risky it would be. The floors and railings all seem to be worn evenly and have lost the “sheen.” The frame of the screened in would be the only areas that may still have some protective coat bc they are vertical and some are shaded, but I guess I’m failing to understand any major risk of just cleaning and putting a second coat on those even if they do still have some of the protective coat (other than darkening the color).
You should be okay to clean and brighten for prep since the old coating has worn evenly.
I do not know whether I should use a stain cleaner or stripper?
You have a solid stain and that cannot be stripped off fully. Easiest would be to clean and then recoat with another solid stain to cover the current coating: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Please help! I bought a heavy duty stripper and still have spots that will not come off (the wood is very uneven so sanding doesn’t do much either).
You have a solid stain or paint. That cannot be stripped fully so your options are sand it all off or go with another solid stain to over what cannot be removed.
I’m not sure what product was used on my deck, it looked great when we bought the house 2 years ago and during the first winter it started pealing and flaking of in the areas that are most exposed to the elements and it’s gotten a lot worse as you can see. The deck is very big and wraps around the house with a railing that is finished using the same product. I was hoping I could sand the areas that it are pealing and then cover with a solid stain or paint without having to remove all of the previous product. On the railing and closer to the house the current product is holding up fine. From what I’ve read on your site I may need to strip the entire deck and railing to do it right. What would recommend?
Pressure wash and strip off what you can. Let dry and then sand off any loose stain. Cover the intact stain with a solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Planning ahead. I didn’t have time to do all the vertical rail boards when I heavy duty cleaned, brightened and solid stained my deck this year. If I clean the rails will the Thompson’s heavy duty cleaner damage the cured solid stain or should I cover the deck in plastic before cleaning and brightening the rails next year?
It may damage it as it contains bleach.
I removed paint from my deck and the wood is in really good condition no gray at all or mildew but it looks really dry. I am ready to stain but not sure if I should clean and brighten first. I just feel like the wood is already so dry don’t want to dry it out more with water and it’s getting late in the season. Should I clean and brighten or is just move into stain? Also the picture is a combination of new and old wood. The new has weathered for about 2-3 months.
Clean and brighten and then stain.
My 25+ year old cedar deck has TWP101 cedartone natural applied to it, which was done in 2017. I will be staining the deck again with the same product. The deck stain now appears to be quite washed out and brittle. What are your recommended steps to prep my deck to be restained? I would be using a power washer after deck cleaning and possibly after wood brightening. My thoughts were.
1. Deck Cleaning
2. Wood Brightening
3. Power Sanding
That will work. Use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep.
Hi, I applied Thompson’s clear coat on my patio yesterday and it darkened it considerably, which I absolutely hate. (I should have patch tested). What can I use to get it off and restore the wood to its original color? Thanks.
The first pic is what it looks like after the Thompson’s. The 2nd pic black portion is what it was when I moved in and the light area is after cleaning. I wanted the eood to remain that light.
Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener kit to remove: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
We live in Georgia where we receive a lot of rain with increasing mold and mildew growth. I also would like to avoid wood rot — which occurred in our last deck.
We previously applied Sherwin Williams SuperDeck oil-based transparent sealer in which the rain still “beads” on the wood.
–In order to remove the mold, mildew, and the prior sealant, should I use the RAD NaOH stripper for the wood and brick, or use the sodium percarbonate cleaner?
–Can I use oxalic acid brightener with the other RAD products instead of the Na HCO3 peroxyhydrate brightener? I have heard that oxalic acid is an excellent brightener.
–What is the best sealer you recommend for Georgia? We were thinking about RAD Natural water-based stain so far, but would like your thoughts.
Thank you for your expert opinion and a creating an excellent and superb website!
-RAD Stripper is best.
-No, do not use a different brighter. Use the RAD brightener. it is better anyhow then straight oxalic acid and safer.
-The RAD Stains would work very well for this. It will not turn black or dark in color as the Super Deck did.
Deck location: Oregon. Southern facing deck – tall trees start blocking sun around 2pm. Cedar deck, been around a long time.
Progress to date: Pressure washer, Simple Green Deck Cleaner and bristle brush, wood filler (where needed) and 100 sand paper applied. No stain yet.
Stain to be used: PPG “Sikkens” Black Oak (just a dark color)
Issue: struggling with getting ALL the old stain off – especially in boards underneath railings. Really inconsistent stain removal, even though applied evenly throughout process. Wanted to get some input here before putting on stain. Any thoughts of whether it’s ready for stain or needs a stronger method of stain removal?
Photos posted in reply to this.
Thank you!
Photos here
Wood filler does not work on decks and deck stains. It will not blend when stained. Just an FYI that the filler will stand out and look white under the stain.
You should use a stripper and pressure washing on the deck to remove the rest of the old stain. Brightener after.
We have used stripper to remove failed Thomson Waterseal product applied 4 yrs ago. We have sanded entire deck and ready to apply brightener but the corners of the rails on top still have a little stain left on them. Can we stop stressing and go ahead and apply brightener then new stain by Restore A Deck or do we have to remove every single little bit of stain left?
You should remove all of the old stain. Try sanding it off.
Last year I sanded And cleaned my deck and applied an oil based stain. Just finished gently pressure washing off the dirt and mildew. Most of it came off but a lot of the graying remains. I tired of going through process all most every year. With the oil based stain the deck remained slippery in wet weather. I’m getting to old for this.and need some advise on prepping and staining so as not to make this an annual event. 2 to 3 years would wonderful. Restore A Deck and TWP looks like the way to go, But need your expertise on how go about the whole process,
We would need to see pictures for the best tips on removing.
How do I attach a picture to this email?
You upload it in the comments.
How do I do that. If you haven’t guessed my computer skills are -0.
Click the photo camera icon and upload.
Here you go. Thanks for the IT lesson
Use the RAD Deck Cleaner/Brightener for prep. Stain with the RAD stain or TWP 100 series.
I previous used a oil based stain and it remained slippery when wet. Since we live in Oregon not a good deal. Would a water based stain be better and hold up for at least a couple of years?
No, not really. It is more of an issue with the brand. If you remove all of the current stain and use a penetrating stain, then it will not be slippery. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Used Sun Frog last year and not happy.
Would like to use the RAD kit.
Hi, if I stain with TWP clear 100, and I decide to go with a color semitransparent in the future, do I need to strip the clear before the next application? Would use TWO series, maybe cedartone.
Yes, strip it off.
Thanks. We just applied TWP 100. Looks great and was easy. Forecast was clear and sunny, but of course this resulted in a thunderstorm with heavy rain about 5 hours after application. Got one coat on, as this deck is only about a year old. The only evidence of potential issue I see is that, when I wipe away the standing water from the board, there is a slight “footprint “ in a few areas of heavier pooling where this water was standing as if some of it worked its way into the board. But this goes away after drying. Should this concern me?
Overall happy with how it looks.
Nothing to worry about.
how to clean a deck that is is good condition, and painted with “rescue-it max.” olympic makes a special cleaner for it, but it’s not available in my area.
If just removing dirt, try warm water and dish soap.
what about algae? it’s very damp here.
Sorry but no idea. We do not use this product.
Clean or strip?
New house, old deck. We renovated shape and added new railing. From the little bit of color left, I imagine it’s been stained before. I prefer the beautiful natural look of Cedar but don’t want to reseal every year so will probably use semi-transparent stain. Any thoughts on best prep approach and then stain to tie it all together? Thank you!
See here about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Strip and brighten the wood for prep. Then stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP Stains.
I have a previously stained deck. Should I use a stripper to prep it before sanding and restaining or should i just use a cleaner. Thanks!
Use a stripper while pressure washing and then reapply a new solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Would you recommend using a deck stripper for a deck that’s been painted?
You cannot strip off a paint with a deck stain stripper. It will have to be sanded to be removed.
Hi, what about this deck? Stripper or cleaner? I went to the shop and they gave me both, but I am wondering if just one of them would be enough. Thank you!
Strip and brighten.
Our screen room floor was made with brown pressure treated lumber about 10 years ago. The high traffic areas are faded. It has not been previously stained. What would be the best way to prepare the surface for stain so that we get even color?
You have a stain of some sort on there so strip and brighten the wood for the prep.
Pretty sure there is no stain, just the pressure treating. Will strip and brighten work for that?
There is a stain of some sort in the pics. Strip and brighten.
We used the Behr Stain and Finish Stripper and are actually pretty happy with the results. Do we have to use the Behr 3-in-1 cleaner also to neutralize the stripper? Or can we go straight to staining it now? Thank you!
A cleaner does not neutralize, you need a wood brightener and yes, you need it.
Could you please help us determine if we should Strip or Sand our deck
New Wood or Older Wood? – Older wood- about 15 years old
Does the Deck have a Current Coating? – yes, deck sealant paint
Are you Switching Brands of Deck Stain or Applying a Maintenance Coat of the same Brand and Color? – maintenance coat
Deck Stain Brand Previously Used? Enter “unknown” if you do not know.- Benjamin Moore
What is the Current Deck Stain Type? Oil-based or Water-Based? Clear, Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Semi-Solid, or Solid Stain? – water based red color paint
Mold or Mildew Issues? – none
Reason for Previous Stain Failure? – paint chipping off, cracks in the wood
You Must Include Picture(s) of the Current
Strip first off what you can and then sand.
2 years ago we had a new deck professionally installed. We waited 1 full year before we had it “professionally” stained to make sure the wood was totally dry. Unfortunately we hired the wrong company to stain our deck. The company totally botched the job. They applied a semi transparent Behr stain with a sprayer on the same day that they power washed it. The stain has obviously failed and our new deck is a mess. We have now waited another full year and now want to correct the problem. We are now being advised that we will need to use a solid stain over top of the initial semi transparent stain because bare spots on the deck where the original stain did not adhere would show through. We are not wanting to use a paint or solid stain as we want the wood grain to show. What alternatives do we have? Stripping has not been advised – why? Sanding? See pictures.
Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off. Brighten all wood when done. Stain with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
My decks are treated wood and had a cheap solid stain put on many years ago. I am not sure what product to use to try to get more life out of them but am hoping you can give me suggestions. What’s my cheapest/best option. I don’t care what they look like just that they don’t deteriorate
Strip off the loose stain and then coat with one of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
This small deck can’t be more than 5 years old. I have no idea if it was ever stained but I’d like to protect it. I can see that there is mildew/mold. If I don’t know if it was stained previously, is it best to strip it?
Here’s another
No need for a stripper. Clean and brighten the wood for prep and then stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I stained my new deck with Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent deck stain last year. Per your advice for new decks, I applied one coat and am ready to re-stain my deck this year. Should I be prepping my deck with deck cleaner or deck stripper, followed by deck brightener and pressure washing? I plan to re-stain with the same Armstrong-Clark stains I used last year.
Deck cleaner and then deck brightener while pressure washing.
Hello,
I bought this house a year ago and the deck was in dire need of repair. I’ve replaced several of the rotted boards, but was wondering what you’d suggest with regards to the pre stain prep. The stain on their has peeled off most of the boards but has some stubborn spots.
Thanks for all the help.
Strip and brighten with the Restore A Deck Stripper: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-injectable-deck-stain-stripper-review/
Two years ago I used the RAD cleaner, whitener, and semi transparent stain on a deck. Some of the stain has worn off but not all. I’m going to stain again but do I use cleaner, stripper, whitener, or neither before applying stain and should I put on one or two coats? Thanks for your help.
Use the cleaner first and then apply one coat if you still have a base coat.
thanks. Should I also use a power pressure washer?
It would help.
Hello! I moved into my house 3 years ago and have no idea what was used on the deck or railing. We have powerwashed the deck and the below pictures are what it looks like afterwards. I know I’ll probably have to strip, brighten, and stain, but don’t know which products I should be using.
We will be replacing the deck railing so do we need to wait to stain that? If so, will we have to use any other products before staining?
Thank you in advance!
This is not an easy strip. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper with both additives. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Once done, sand off the stubborn stain that cannot be stripped. Brighten all wood after. See this for new wood for the rails: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
My deck is about 15-20 years old. Should we use a deck stripper or cleaner? Or would you recommend replacement?
Strip and brighten for prep. Try the Restore-A-Deck Prep Kits. Stain after: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you!
I have 1 year old treated deck boards in a sunny location. the sun has weathered the boards quickly, and are
greying and cracking.
I want to do a solid stain at some point, but, in the interim, could a clear sealer (Thompson’s)
be applied now to protect the wood, then strip, brighten and stain later? or is it better to just get to the staining and prep, would the sealer cause problems or more prep work.?
No, do not seal the wood. It will create issues.
Awesome, thanks. this site is very helpful
I stripped a solid stain off my cedar deck and then sanded the entire deck. There are still grey spots near the knots. Cant tell if its stubborn stain and i need to strip again or if its something else and a cleaner and brightener will finish the job?
Additional photo.
It looks like old gray solid stain around the knots. Strip and or sand to remove.
Would you recommend stripping or cleaning this deck prior to staining? Thanks!
Clean and brighten the wood.
Thanks!
will the cleaner brightener damage aluminum balusters like the ones pictured?
They should not.
We just moved into a new house and the pergola stain is staring to wear in some areas. Can we use the Behr all in one wood cleaner and then restrain with a similar semitransparent stain? Would it be better to track down the prior existing stain and go over it again? Or do we need to strip the whole thing first? Some areas are worn more than others
Strip and brighten all and then you can recoat with a better stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Thank you so much for your quick reply!