This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi! I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in exterior deck cleaning and stain stripping. My wood deck cleaning/stripping help tips are based on my history as a wood restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing. See here for more info about me.
Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner
I appreciate your input at Deckstainhelp.com as we continue to be your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. See below for an article about When to use a Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner.
Feel free to leave me a comment or ask questions below.
Strip or Clean the Deck
Why use a Deck Stripper vs a Deck Cleaner
One of the biggest rookie mistakes I often see is someone applying a stain to a deck that has not been properly prepped. When you’ve stained a deck a few times before, you learn that dirt, mildew, mold, or graying should not be present when you apply the stain, or it will end in disaster.
Only a clean, well-prepared surface can correctly absorb the stain and allow it to perform just as you want and need it to. Cleaning the wood thoroughly before undertaking staining has the added bonus of making it look even more beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
I recommend two different products for the job: a “Deck Stripper” and a “Deck Cleaner.” They are both designed to properly prep the wood and clean it thoroughly before staining begins.
Deck Stripper or Deck Cleaner?
There is a simple method to determine whether you should use a Deck Stripper or Cleaner, as it all revolves around the wood’s surface. Older, grubby, and grayed wood just needs a quality wood cleaner. A Deck Wood Cleaner is powerful enough to get rid of most dirt and mildew stains; however, a stripper might be needed for more heavy-duty preparation.
Often, when staining your deck, you will need to remove the remaining old stain, which can be stubborn. In this case, the Deck Stripper should be used instead of the Deck Cleaner. The useful advantage of strippers is that they will soften and ‘melt’ most stains, making them easy to wash or wipe away. On top of that, Deck Strippers cleans off mildew and graying, too. There’s no reason to use a cleaner after!
Brighten the Wood After Stripping or Cleaning
Another common mistake I often see is not using a wood brightener to neutralize the wood after using the deck cleaner or deck stripper. Brighteners are an integral part of the restaining process. They lower the pH of the boards and allow the pores to ‘breathe,’ making them more accepting and open to absorbing your new stain.
If you’re having trouble figuring out whether your deck has been stained in the past, please post a picture below.
Best Deck Cleaner or Stripper Articles
- What are the Best Deck Cleaners
- The Best Deck Stain Strippers
- Why Brighten After Deck Stripping
- How To Remove a Solid Color Deck Stain
My How To Strip A Deck Stain Video
Hello,
Our deck was last stained with a semi-transparent stain 3 years ago and was starting to look worn. (Pittsburgh Ultra Advanced Stain & Sealant in One). Today we cleaned with a power washer (just water, no chemicals) and removed a little of the stain. Do we need to use a stripper, or can we just re-stain with the same formula over the top after sanding? Secondly, no one talks about the railings, spindles/balusters. Ours are in pretty good shape–can we just clean with water and re-stain?
Thanks for your advice.
If using the same stain then yes you can stain over this.
We replaced most of the board on our deck but did not replace the balusters. We also replaced the top rails. I’m not sure where to start! I’m not sure if it’s stain or paint on the balusters.
Try a two-toned deck.
By leaving the bannisters and staining the rest? Any suggestions on a color scheme? House is tan.
No. Solid stain the railings, natural stain for the floor. Article explains. Any color you like will work.
I have a redwood fence that was installed in 2016. It was stained with the cabot clear wood protector at the time of installation. I thought I needed to sand the whole thing down before moving forward with the rest of the prep work, but I am realizing it will take me a month to sand the whole thing when I think all I need to do is a stripper or cleaner and a brightner with a light sanding where needed only. The picture below (without the bbq) shows one side where I have sanded and the other is what it looks like now. The picture with the bbq shows what it currently looks like. I live by the beach so it gets a good amount of sun and salt exposure. What do you recommend? Cleaner and then brightner, stripper and then brightner, or something else? Thanks in advance for your help.
Stripper then pressure wash off. Brightener after.
Thank you. If i use the stripper on wood that is connected to a metal gate will it strip the paint off the metal as well? I don’t want to remove the paint so want to know if I should cover the metal first. Appreciate the help and quick replies!
It does not strip paint.
I have been using TWP 100 Cedartone on this deck for 20 years. I used the Behr All in One Wood Cleaner and pressure washed. When I ran out I used 1/3 Fabuloso cleaner/1/3 water/1/3 bleach. There is still a darker spot where the rug was that did not come out. Is there anything else I can do to make the deck more uniform? Did I need to do a stripper to get a more uniform look with re-staining?
A stripper will probably not xis this. I do not think you can fix outside of power sanding.
Would a stripper make the deck look more uniform as there are light and dark areas on the wood?
Maye a little. You would also have to brighten the wood.
Do you think my deck is prepared adequately for restaining with the TWP or does it still need to be stripped to get all the old stain off? I am driving myself crazy worrying about what to do for the best results. Would you switch to to solid water based Restore a Deck to get a more uniform look or do you think my wood is still in good shape?
Thanks for your response and help in advance!
I attached a couple pictures of our deck… we stained the deck about 3.5 years ago with a Cabot Oil Based Stain. What product would you recommend to strip/clean the deck (with a power washer)? Should I follow that up with a brightener? I will then will have to sand to remove some of the splinters/etc which are there now. What type of product would you recommend to deal the deck (semi-transparent, semi solid, oil based vs. water based, etc)? Also, is it ok if it rained between power-washing and refinishing (then dried fully 24+ hours before staining)?
Thank you
Kevin
I forgot to mention, we live in Iowa.
Yes, strip and brighten for prep: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-deck-stain-strippers/
If you sand, do not power sand. Use one of these stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
48 hours after any rain or prep.
I have a cedar deck (10 x 18 feet) new in fall 2014. TWP cedar tone finish applied the following summer. It now seems to be wearing off in spots, primarily on the flat surfaces exposed to sun, but also mildly on the vertical posts. I would like to retreat the deck this summer with TWP Cedar tone again and would like to know the process. Stripper and power wash, then brightener? If so, what brand to use. How long to wait before applying the TWP product after cleaning? Is there one TWP product that is better than another?
The deck in on the north side of a cabin in central MN. There is a large pine tree which overhangs part of the deck and drops sap on the deck in the summer.
Thanks for your advice. Mark
Stripp and brighten for prep. Wait 48 hours after prep. Stain with the TWP 100 Series for MN.
Our cedar deck is 4 years old. The railings have turned black (see pic) and we haven’t been able to get rid of it. We have tried sanding with no luck. The last stain used in this pic was Flood CWF Oil – oil wood finish in cedar color. Should we strip and do a brightener? What kind of stain should be used?
Try a stripper and brightener.
A few years ago we stained our deck with an Olympic brand semi-transparent stain. The stain never really took. We are looking to restrain it this spring, but are not sure what steps we need to take. Stripper, brightener, then stain? We also have a big stain from a citronella candle that oozed off the table when we forgot to bring it in on a very hot day. Can this be removed with a project or are we stuck with a solid stain?
Product not project.
You cannot remove the citronella stain. Prep with a Stain stripper and then a Brightener. See how it cleans up before deciding on a solid or semi-trans.
My cedar deck was built 3 years ago and finished with linseed oil. It looked beautiful for a short time, but then turned dark. I pressure washed it last year and never got back to a re-finish until now and am wondering if clean & refresh would work best (rather than a stripper) since I pressure washed it, perhaps too aggressively.
Your site is very informative and wish I would have seen it before I started.
Thanks,
You might want to strip it so it all comes out. Brightener after.
Great, thanks for your speedy advice.
The deck of the house I recently purchased has many cracks in the wood. I received a quote from a professional who informed me that he would be able to fill in some of the cracks, however, he suggested that the best choice would be to use a power washer and then apply a solid stain. I was disappointed to learn this because I had done the research (including reading your recommendations) and had decided to go with the restore-a-deck semi-transparent wood stain (I also had intended on purchasing their stripper and brightener to use prior). I don’t know how old the deck is but I did observe the pronounced splits in the wood so I am worried about making the wrong choice. I did research on solid stains and everyone has indicated that it hides the grain completely and looks like paint which is def not the look I was going for. I have enclosed pictures of the deck for your reference and I would love some advice from you guys! Thanks so much for taking the time to assist me – I am so grateful!!
Courtney
For prep, you would want their Cleaner and Brightener, not the Stripper. See this about wood filler. We do not suggest using it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-filler-for-decks/
Having splits and cracks on a deck is normal. Just lightly sand and splinters after the prep and you are good to use a semi-transparent stain.
I am looking to restain a deck with a brown semi transparent. It appears there is an old, lighter semi transparent stain that is worn. Can I use a cleaner with scrubbing and light power washing for prep or will a stripper be required? Thanks
That is an opaque filming stain on there now, not a semi-transparent penetrating stain. You cannot strip this off fully and you cannot cover it with a semi-transparent stain unless fully removed. You can strip off some and then you will need to power sand to get it all off. The other option is to cover it with a solid stain.
Can you advise what the proper prep work would be if I applied a solid stain instead of a semi-transparent? Thanks for the help!
Strip and pressure wash off the loose stain. You can then cover the intact stain that is not peeling with a new solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
This deck has a thin layer of brown paint on it. I’ve lived her five years and it lookes pretty similar then to now. I’m not sure if I Should strip the whole deck, or just scrape off any pieces that might be flaking and then re paint, or just solid stain it? It did get power washed last summer.
You cannot strip a solid stain fully. Remove what you can and then cover with a new coating that is opaque.
2 years ago my deck was stained using TWP. Had lots of issues with clouding of the stain.The cause was never determined. The plan was to try to re-do it last year. However we had a hail storm & lots of damage. Never got around to the deck…Do we have to use TWP again after cleaning the deck or can we use another product?
If you want to switch brand then you will need to strip and brighten for prep.
Could use a suggestion of what to use? Stripper then brightner?
What stain brand and type of stain is this?
It was something that was used previously- Thompson Waterseal was the stain .
Use the RAD Stripper Kits with both additives: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
Western red cedar 1×2 horizontal fence installed in 2017. Just got around to having it stained by a contractor. He power washed, let dry for 1 day and then applied Cabot’s wood toned deck stain in Natural. The finished product was splotchy, black in areas, orange in others. I used Penofin Wood Stripper to remove stain and did it in sections over 5 days. I’m happy to see it come off, but boy did it take a lot of elbow grease! I have not followed stripping immediately with brightener. Part of fence is still drying. Could you please tell me what my next steps should be and why it turned out so poorly when done by the contractor?
I am so sorry I asked this a while back and someone closed my computer and I can’t remember which tab i asked the question on, anyway its a new deck built in Jan and we are now in April and its a bit grubby and greying already, can i use deck stripper as don’t have cleaner (and don’t want to venture out with our shelter in place) or is it too harsh? its wet out so that should help and we have a circular head on our jet wash which might be better for the wood.
No on a stripper. Use a cleaner.
Question. My deck had a horrible old blue paint on the surface. We pressure washed and sanded. It still has some blue remnants on it. We are hoping to use an exterior solid stain over top. Do I need to strip or clean the deck with either of these products, or will a solid wood stain do the trick?
Using a solid stain now should cover it: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Your site is always helpful. Still confused re: stripping vs cleaning. Have PT deck 4 y old with Australia timber oil. Color looks good , no mold, gets a lot of sun but not beading water anymore and duller. Can I just clean,brighten with deck cleaning kit then re apply ATO? Or do I need to strip, brighten re apply? Will be applying ATO to new adjacent deck. If I switch oil brands I do need to strip, correct? Have you any concerns re: ATO changing their formula? Thank you for your advice.
Same brand (formula too) and color = cleaner and brightener. Switching brands or colors and you should strip and brighten. ATO has been modified through the years so not sure if what you have is the same as before.
You all are awesome thanks
We’re moving into a new place and have never had a deck. The deck looks to already be stained or oiled but there are some black spots on the hand railing. It is coastal so I think due to moisture and sun damage. Do we need to strip the entire deck and restain?
Here’s another picture.
Yes, when you redo you will need to strip and brighten for the prep.
Another pic. This time of the outdoor deck which is still drying.
You have to remove this old coating fully. Use RAD stripper with both additives as this is a fairly difficult strip: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper-booster-thickening-gel-review/
We power washed and then cleaned this with a deck cleaner by Thomson. Do I need to strip this? Or what do you suggest? I was hoping to use a semi transparent oil stain when we stain it. The outdoor deck looks different than the screened porch but both were the same color when we bought 5 years ago so perhaps the sun just weathered the outdoor one more.
My husband wonders if we just needed to leave the cleaner on longer. He thinks that’s maybe why some areas are lighter than others in the screened in porch now.
Thanks so much.
I have a 6 month old red wood floating deck. I used Behr semitransparent stain and sealer(all in one) 4 months ago. I just cleaned the deck to remove dripping sap from my eucalyptus trees. I used a stiff bristled brush and dish soap/water mix. This took off some stain/sealer in the pattern of the direction i brushed. I need to restain and reseal this section, but don’t want it to be different than other portion of deck.
3 questions:
1. do i need to prep the deck before applying a second coat of behr 2 in 1 stain and sealer?
2. if so will i need to sand off stain/sealer or just do a cleaner, as i am concerned the stain will not take due to waterproofing sealer that is mixed in with Stain?
3. Can I just clean surface and apply a second coat, and would i need to also put on a brightner to bring PH down for absorption?
You cannot spot fix a section and have it blend. Best to strip/brighten it all down and start over.
I’m not sure how this deck was originally finished about 6-7 years ago, but I think it was stained. Can I get by with a cleaner or do I need a stripper? If just a cleaner, what do you think of 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner? After it’s stripped or cleaned, am I correct that a brightener should be applied before staining? Thanks for your help.
Strip and brighten is correct way to prep.
I used Deck Brite on treated wood that was installed about one year ago. As the deck dries a white residue has appeared. Do I need to allow the wood to dry more or do I need to do a follow-up to my power washer rinse?
Go back over it will pressure washing and the cleaner again.
we are using 1 cup oxyclean to a gallon of water. is that a good mixture for cleaning deck? also, we have a lot of trees by our deck. if a leaf gets on deck and it’s not dry what do we do?
We naver had good like with just oxyclean as it is not designed for decking but general cleaning.
Can you use a different brand of brightener after using Penofin stripper?
Yes.
Thanks for confirming it is okay to do so. It is my understanding from reading some of these comments that if you use Penofin stain you must continue to use only that stain as it is very hard to remove. Is that your experience?
Penofin is very easy to strip off. If switching brands of stain, strip off the Penofn first.
Thanks. The existing stain is not Penofin but I am considering Penofin stain. I appreciate the rapid response to my questions. Thanks again.
Penofin has issues with turning black in color after a year or two. We are not fans. Many consumer complaints as well.
Again, thanks for the information, what about Olympic stain? Love one of their colors.
Use to be decent but they changed the formulas a few years ago.
I bought Behr all in one wood cleaner. Would that do the job for my deck?
That really depends on the condition of the wood currently.
I have a cedar deck that is 6-7 years old. every year or two I power wash and reapply Thompson Waterproof Sealer. No stain etc. just the waterproof sealer. IF I decided I wanted to apply transparent stain what process? Stripper, and brightener, then transparent stain? Thank You in Advance.
Stripper and brightener for prep.
I just pressure washed and cleaned. was thinking of waterproofing in a couple of days. May I let my
set over the winter without waterproofing and reclean,brighten and apply transparent stain next summer without harming the deck by letting it sit that long without protector?
Yes, you can do this for one Winter.
I am not sure what kind of stain was put on this deck prior to the semi transparent stain that is on there now…. which is ugly and peeling. Can you tell from these picture what I need to do to properly prepare the deck for new solid stain? Just clean and brighten, or strip and brighten?
For reapplying with another solid stain, just clean and pressure wash.
Do you mean literally clean and pressure wash, no brightener?
Yes.
My deck is only 3 years old, but looks old. It’s been stained before and the water still beads, can I use I wood cleaner so I can stain it again ? Or does it need something else?
Post a picture.
We used Penofin Verde to stain new posts and rails for our deck. The deck itself is composite. The rails tuned almost black the first winter and posts weathered to a dark color over 2 years. We’re now inyear 3.
I’m wondering if we can clean and brighten the rails and posts ow do we need to strip them? We are also concerned about the composite deck and if a wood cleaner or stripper will affect it. We won’t use Penofin again but don’t know what we will use next
You will need to strip and brighten. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kits. The prep products will not harm composite wood. Look at Restore A Deck Wood Stain. It will not turn black.
I’ve been staining my deck for 27 years and have always just pressure washed and then applied a semi transparent with great success. The last time I used Sherwin Williams Super Deck semi transparent and it really messed up my deck. It started peeling off all the newer boards and is also flaking on the old boards. I have pressure washed it. I have included pics after pressure washing. How do I get this prepped for new stain? And do you have a suggested semi transparent stain? I would love to use Defy, but it is horribly expensive and I have a huge deck.
That is not semi-transparent but a solid opaque stain. You will need to power sand to remove it.
So even though the can says semi transparent, it’s not? Very frustrated with Sherwin Williams..
They sold you a solid stain. SW makes terrible deck stains as you know. Sorry.
Please see attached pictures of back wood deck. I pressure washed deck to remove substantial dirt and build up. Prior stain was mostly removed as well. I now really like the original wood color look after the pressure wash. I can’t tell if prior wood stain was full solid or semi-transparent. Can you tell?
As for the further prep work prior to using a semi-transparent oil-based natural color stain:
-Should I use a ‘deck cleaner’?
OR ‘deck stripper’?
OR just further pressure wash (higher pressure) off prior stain?
Then I use wood brightener, rinse, and then use brush to apply semi transparent stain – correct?
Thanks!
Old coating looked semi-trans. Use a stain stripper and pressure wash again. Brightener after. Stain pad or brush to apply a new coating.
Thanks. Quick follow-ups:
1- Can I use a round up weed killer sprayer for applying stripper and brightener?
2- After brightener – I only rinse – correct? Not pressure-wash again.
Thanks again.
1. You can use a pump sprayer but not sure of a round-up brand is any good.
2. Yes.
Thank for your support!
Understand its our color choice – but from above pics that have not been fully stripped and brightened yet – what do you think of variations of natural, cedar, and light walnut between semi-trans brands. I wood like the wood look slightly enhanced – but not too much of that yellowish-orange – so down to these listed below. Maybe certain brands work better too for our ‘covered porch deck with beams’ and stairs down to yard ‘not covered’ based on above pics and your opinion. We are in Raleigh North Carolina.
– TWP 100 Cedartone 101
– Defy Cedartone
– Defy Light Walnut
– Defy Natural
– RAD Cedar
– RAD Light Walnut
– RAD Natural
*TWP 1500: Cedartone 1501
*TWP 1500: Natural 1530
-What is general difference on look between Cedar and Light Walnut for above semi-trans? Both look very close on look we would like. I’m thinking Natural stain tone probably not way to go with 8-10 year old deck overall.
-Is lower VOC make stain less quality (TWP 1500 and Defy 40 low VOC) ?
Best to get some samples to test. No way to be certain of the color on your wood type and age. There is no “general” difference between colors with different brands. They do not match. Cedar in RAD will be completely different than Defy, TWP, etc.
Lower VOC does not equal less quality.
Thank you for all your help!
Or prep: Can you apply stripper, pressure wash, and then brightener in the rain? Possible rain expected. Thanks.
Light rain but not heavy rain.
10 year old deck. Pressure washed initially 2 weeks back to remove dirt, build-up, etc. Cleaned off well. Became apparent prior stain was semi trans. Used DEFY stripper and pressure washed. Used DEFY brightener and rinsed. It has come a long way. See pics. FYI – prior semi trans stain was redwood-ish color.
Does look ready to stain? Have new TWP-100 cedar ready to go.
Feel like maybe more pressure washing with stripper and brighten because see some lines. But don’t want to overdo. Wood def dry and natural wood color and feel and appears semi trans gone?
Thanks!
It looks ready to go with the TWP.
Did some light sandpapering 60 to remove remaining paint.
Should I rinse / light pressure wash?
Or should I use another light round of Brightener after rinse?
Thanks!
Brighten and light pressure wash to rinse.
30 year old deck. Used to have a local guy clean and stain/seal with an oil based product. He retired. 2 years ago different guy “cleaned” (not stripped) and then applied Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Solid (water based). The SW is flaking off and everything needs to be redone correctly. Do I: use stripper, powerwash, brightener, then stain/seal?
Solid stain means you will need to power sand to remove fully. Clean and brighten for final prep before staining.
need some help advice on my prep please!
All cedar deck, was constructed new approx 3-4 yrs ago. I used Cabot clear wood protector on the entire deck surface- which I learned was a terrible mistake and it offer’s ZERO protection from the harsh sun this deck receives all summer long in the Midwest (Illinois) .
This deck gets full sun all day long.
The railing and upper privacy rails were stained in a darker stain, but I cant remember what brand was used. it may have been cabot as well, but I am not 100% sure. It either came from menards or homedepot I know that much. ( I know all the darker colors still need to get stripped- weather isn’t cooperating at the moment to finish this)
The deck has been neglected and the entire deck surface both upper and lower was in terrible shape. I didn’t take any before pictures, but it was gray and nasty.
so far I’ve cleaned it with a deck wash and power washed and then brightened and I am pleased with how clean its come, but am not entirely sure if I have a case of the “fuzzies”? see zoomed in picture of deck board. OR is that leftover residue of the old cabot stain?
I think its fuzzies but not 100% sure as this is my first time redoing a deck.
I was reading on this website that if you do have fuzzies, and if you cant see them when the deck is wet, then you “should be ok” to go ahead and stain?
and after reading a lot of info on this site, I think we are going to go with the RAD deck stain. we just bought the sample pack so we can pick color.
so any advice on how my deck boards look is appreciated! the raised ridges on the boards were there before I even pressure washed, so I’m guessing unfortunately its just damaged from me procrastinating and failing to re stain this deck like it needed to be. which is a shame because I broke my back building this thing , I should have taken better care to protect it.
oh, and the dark square outline you see in the middle of the lower portion is what i was left with after I put an outdoor rug on the deck before it was stained. I don’t know if sanding will help lighten that dark outer edge as I have not tried sanding any of it yet- so any advice on getting rid of that dark square is appreciated too.
your feedback is appreciated!
p.s.
– your website already saved me the mistake of buying Behr stain at home depots memorial day sale this weekend. I’ve read countless stories on this website of the nightmare Behr stain has brought deck owners. –
-If you cannot see the fuzzies when wet then you typically cannot see them when stained.
-There is not a way to fix the rug issue. It will show worse if you try to sand it out. Might want to put a rub back in the same spot.
-The rest of the prep looks good.
thanks for the quick reply! good thing I asked about the rug so I didn’t attempt to sand. Yes, I was planning on putting same size rug back to cover that.
would you at all suggest trying to sand any of the “fuzzies” away? or might I potentially open up a can of worms with that? should I just leave well enough alone perhaps?
Thanks in advance-
If you want, rent a buffer and sanding pad and smooth down the fuzzies. It will not harm the stain penetration.
and what type of sanding pad should I be looking to use with this? I don’t want to rely on asking this to someone at home depot which is where I’ll have to rent the buffer.. 🙂
They are floor buffers in the rental departments and they have pads and sanding screens for them.
my RAD stain is coming today and I’m planning on staining tomorrow. I did purchase the big deck stain brush from RAD, but is it easier/faster/more efficient to spray on the stain first with a hudson sprayer and then back brush it in with the big deck brush I purchased from RAD?
advice welcome! I have hudson sprayers I could use….
We do it both ways but prefer applying with the brush as it ensures a better application appearance. Spraying while easier could result in a blotchy appearance if you are not moving fast.
I used Armstrong and Clark Amber last year on the deck and want to use the mahogany this year. Do I need to strip it and brighten or just clean and brighten?
Clean and brighten should be okay since you are going darker with the same brand.
I have a deck that Sikens Cetol SRD trans oil base stain was used on approx 3 years ago. I’m wanting to freshen it up with the same stain depending on how much work is involved. It is a large deck, 2 levels 8 & 7 foot off the ground. I have black aluminum balasters but the top and bottom rails are wood. What do I need to do to prep the deck so the wood will absorb the stain? I’ve done the water test and in most areas the water does soak in after about 10 min. The deck has been power washed. It gets direct sun light. If I have to strip, neutralize & sand everything should I switch to a water base semi or solid stain?
Let me know. I’m wanting to knock this out soon before the blazing heat of GA really kicks in. Thanks
If you want the same stain and color, clean and brighten for prep. If you want to switch brands, strip and brighten.
Hi,
I need to apply a new coat of semitransparent stain to my wood deck this year. Apparently we did not properly prep the deck for the previous years stain application. The stain chips and wears poorly lasting only 2-3 years at most.
Which products do you recommend for cleaning and prep? Any advice you give will be appreciated.
Larry
Buffalo, NY
You have a solid stain on there now, not semi-trans. You will need to stick with a solid stain unless you want to sand it all off. The easiest thing to do is pressure wash to removing the peeling stain. Spot sand after if needed to remove any remnants of peeling stain, leaving the intact stain that is not peeling. Cover the current solid stain with a new solid stain: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Behr calls it semi transparent. This is what the stain looks like after 2-3 coats of stain. You’re right that it looks solid instead of semi transparent. Personally I do not recommend the Behr product. Probably will change because it is not durable.
Thank you for your advice.
hi, we have a deck which is 2.5 years old.
I think it is treated pine.
Last year we used a Behr Transparent clear penetrating oil wood finish clear 4000. before applying we followed the manufacture’s guide for which cleaner to use. The deck did look nice after completed.
but by the end of summer the colour had faded alot. We are in Southern Ontario near Lake Ontario. the deck has full sun. No signs of mould or mildew. we would like to apply something which will last longer. ( the deck does not receive alot of traffic) the colour we would like is a light redwood. Because this was a oil wood finish. I am not sure how to prep it for next Stain. ( we would like a semi transparent.)
thanks for any advice
Strip and brighten for prep. Stain with Armstong Clark or TWP 200 Series.
Thank you. Have a great day.
I have a seven-month-old deck.this will be my first prep/stain.do I use stripper or just a cleaner to remove the mill glaze? then follow up with a brightener I assume
Cleaner followed by wood brightener. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
Hi,
We have used a combination of deck cleaner and deck stripper, with power washer to remove old red stain and finishing deck over with 80 grit sand paper. Once sanded should we just use a deck brightener before staining? or should we deck clean and then brighten before staining. Feel since we have gone over with cleaner, stripper and power washer we might not have to clean deck again and hopefully just use brightener before staining?
Thanks
Eric
Lightly clean and brighten is best. It will help the stain to soak into the wood better.
Hi,
I have a 6 year-0ld pressure treated deck. I stained it twice so far using PPG/Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD-RE semi transparent stain. I last stained it two years ago and it looks as though it’s due for another staining. There is some dull color from the old stain in the boards, but they no longer bead-up and most of the color is gone leaving mostly a dull, dirty grey surface. I want to re-stain with the same product. Should I use a deck stripper or cleaner to prepare the surface? I would prefer not to deal with the vertical surfaces as they appear in much better shape than the horizontal boards. I’m hoping to avoid re-sanding the whole deck. Also, in the past, the deck cleaner I used (Olympic) resulted in small fuzzy fibers coming up. Is there a way to avoid having to sand down the little fibers that result from cleaning? The deck is pretty big and sanding is a monumental task.
Thanks for your help,
John
If using the same product, use a deck cleaner and pressure washer for prep. Not a way to avoid the fuzzies if the wood is oxidized. Part of removing the graying and no way around it.
Do I need to use a brightener?
Yes.
where can you buy these products?
Check with the manufacturer’s websites.
If I am just re-applying a fresh coating of TWP 100 would I just need to clean and brighten, or do I need to strip off the “old” TWP 100? Thanks! And thanks for all the helpful information on this site!
Clean and brighten.
I need to recondition/stain this deck. I recently purchased the house and have no information on previous maintenance, other than it looks like it was not done properly. I am seeking advice on proper maintenance (how to clean, sand, preserve with stain). There is small amount of mildew. Flaking of surface around the white areas. Plenty of small splitting. I had to replace a couple boards and they weathered all winter. It’s a quality deck with toe-nailed screws from the side and I’d like to preserve it.
The current coating needs to be removed. Stripping will not remove it fully. Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off. Brighten the wood when done. When done, stain with TWP or Armstrong Clark.
Several years ago we built a redwood deck and stained it immediately with Penofin semi-transparent sable. Many of the board were splotchy and looked horrible.
We stopped staining and did nothing until now. I was hoping the weathering would change the splotchy boards but no they are still terrible after years and scrubbing and then using a brightener did not help with the greasy looking dark spots. Now what?
Prep with Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener kits to restore the wood color.
Hello, thank you very much for hosting such a helpful website!
I have deck and fence which were stained with solid color behr stain a few years ago, there are some areas where stain has peeled off, some areas with black and green mildew. We are considering to stain with a solid color stain again (based on what i have read on your website, looking at Flood Pro solid stain). Is it necessary to power sand all surfaces to completely remove old behr solid stain or we can just apply stain stripper ? or we need to use deck cleaner instead? or both? do we need to use brightener as well? And then apply new solid color stain over.
Also, are there any websites which help to color match behr solid colors to Flood solid colors?
Thank you in advance!
Pressure wash and remove all the loose stain. You can leave the solid stain that is not peeling. Your new coating can be applied over this. You can use a stripper to help remove the loose and peeling stain. Brighten after if you do. Websites do not color match solid stains but paint stores that sell the Flood should be able to.
thank you very much for such prompt reply, have a good day!
You are welcome!
working on a pressure treated wood ramp, handrails, posts, we think it was coated with Sikkens, is there a way to
tell if it is Sikkens, I believe it is, has that plastic, opag look where it is peeling, do we have to strip to apply a new
coat of regular deck stain, or is there a primer if you want to apply a solid hide stain, thks
Tom@ Home Tech Solutions Fairfax, Va.
Yes, you will need to remove this. Stripping and power sanding to get it off fully. You do not need a primer with a solid stain.
I am planning to stain a wood floor in a new enclosed porch (bottom half is solid wall, top half is screening) once the weather warms up. The wood has seasoned for several months. From reading Q&As on your site, it sounds like I will need to use a cleaner/brightener to prep the wood before I stain. But, I’m worried about using a pressure washer to remove the cleaner since the porch is enclosed and the walls will get dirty. Is there any other way to remove the cleaner? Or does it really need to be high pressure washed?
It should be pressure rinsed. Do you have a door that leads outside? Rinse well through the door is how we do it.
Thanks so much!
I recently purchased a house and the fence was weathered. In the garage they had used Thompson’s WaterSeal Clear so my assumption was they applied that to the fence 2-3 years ago when the fence was new and it is greying/weathering. My thought after reading a few other sites is I will use a stripper and brightener to remove the finish and prep for staining. Found a deal at a store going out of business and bought Benjamin Moore Remove and Brighten to remove. My fence has 2 sides to it that I want to stain. So I did the Remove and then applied the Brigthen while it was still wet. When I got to the other side there were drip marks/tears going down the fence but I thought oh well it would come off as I work on this side, but it never did. Somehow either the Remove or Brighten penetrated the wood so deeply and left permanent tear/drip marks (see pictures attached). I used sandpaper to remove all of the furries on the fence, but the drips remained and tested with some stain and clearly showed through (very ugly). I then over sanded the wood to the point that the tears/drips would be removed from the wood. This changed the wood color from a yellow to more of a red (I don’t know the wood type of the fence), but the drips are gone from the majority of boards. This literally took hours though (painfully time consuming) and a few I just can’t remove. I even tried a test on one board where I re-applied some brighten and left it there for 10 minutes and the drips didn’t come out. I don’t want to damage the wood and further or re-create the problem though.
In any case, do you know a way to fix the remaining drips that are still in a few boards in the wood? Also, now that I over sanded the wood (really just the front is over sanded the back was just sanded), am I okay to apply the stain to it still or do I need to let the wood weather. I plan on buying TWP semi-transparent stain and maybe staining a week later, but want to ensure I haven’t screwed things up.
You might want to wait until Spring to finish this for a couple of reasons. The sanding may have reduced the ability for the stain to soak in fully and evenly and a good deck cleaner and brightener in the Spring will hopefully remove the drip marks. If it were us, we would wait.
Is it an issue leaving the wood raw/untreated for that long? I’m in California so don’t need to wait for the seasons necessarily. I attached a few more pictures since there can only be 3 at a time. 1 shows the drips up close that I mentioned. 1 shows the finished sanded front of the fence where only a couple boards still have drips soaked deep in the wood. And the last picture is the other fence that I haven’t touched yet as once this backfired, I plan to not use the same products and handle the other fence differently.
No, it is fine leaving until Spring.
Okay thanks. How many months should I wait? Can I get away with 1 month and doing it in January or should I wait longer? As I mentioned, it’s really just the one side that was over sanded where the other I just sanded off the furries.
2-3 months.
Okay thanks, are you able to tell what type of food it is from the picture?
Sorry for delayed response. We had to fix some issues with the web pages loading. The site should be much faster now.
As for the wood, (I assumed you did not mean food) not sure. It looks like cedar but not the normal western red cedar that is used. Eastern or Spanish cedar?
Sorry I think my reply didn’t go through so I’ll post again. I live in California so I don’t necessarily need to wait for the seasons (it won’t get too cold or snow). Is it a problem to leave the bare wood unstained/treated for that long? I understand cleaning/brightening would bring it back to life if I wait, but just making sure the wood won’t be harmed being exposed for so long. Also, just hoping that the 2nd time around I don’t get the same drips happening again. If I stain the freshly sanded wood you think the stain will fail?
I attached 3 more pictures. The first shows the drips before sanding that you can see what I am talking about up close. The product just penetrated the wood too deeply and unless you sand deeply, they wouldn’t come out. Although as I mentioned, almost all have been removed on the front of the fence now from sanding. The 2nd is the finished fence after sanding it thoroughly. You can see the wood has more “red” showing through than before.
The 3rd picture is my other fence that is on hold until I figure out how I am finishing this one. My new plan would be to use a cleaner/power washer and brightener on this fence. Would you recommend that instead? I know there was a clear coat applied on it, but it is pretty warn and trying to avoid the potential stripper issue I had before. Or maybe it was just a product/application issue I’m not sure.
You need to strip off the Thompsons. Apply the stripper to both sides of the fence at the same time. Do one or two sections of the fence. Pressure wash off, repeat until done. Brighten all wood at the stain time when done with the stripping.
Okay, thanks for the insight. If my neighbors side wasn’t treated previously, can I use Stripper or should I buy Cleaner too? I plan on buying the RAD product instead wondering if the previous Benjamin Moore product I used was bad.
A cleaner is only needed if untreated.