This post was updated on April 27, 2026
I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in staining cedar decks. Most of the wood decks we have worked on have been western red cedar, and when new, you should take care to use a proper wood stain. See here for more info about me.
Best Stain for New Cedar Wood Deck
New Smooth Wood
I appreciate you visiting Deckstainhelp.com, your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. If you are looking for honest deck stain ratings, look no further. In this updated article, we offer suggestions for how to prepare and stain a new cedar deck. Feel free to leave a comment below.
My Tips for Choosing a Cedar Deck Stain
Are you trying to find the best cedar wood and decking stain? Here are a few things to consider when comparing options and how to stain your brand-new cedar.
- Weather the Cedar Wood
- Prepping New Cedar Wood
- Is your Cedar Rough-Sawn
- Choose a Penetrating Wood Stain
- Compare Best Cedar Stain
- Watch My How to Stain a New Deck Video
- If you have questions on New Cedar Stains, ask me below.
For more options beyond cedar-specific stains, see our full list of the best deck stains available today.
1. Weather the New Cedar Deck
Many types of cedar are used for exterior surfaces, with Red Cedar being the most common. We recommend waiting 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. (Always follow the stain brand’s directions, though.) After the weathering, all new cedar wood should be cleaned and brightened for the prep. This will remove any oxidation and mill glaze.
2. Prep New Cedar Wood
Prepping new cedar wood is important to stain life and performance. It should be cleaned using a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner to remove mill glaze and other contaminants that may have infiltrated the wood during construction.
Once the new cedar wood has been cleaned, it will appear darker. While the wood is still wet, apply a wood brightener to restore its original color. Brightening wood after it has been cleaned will also open the wood pores, allowing the conditioning oils to penetrate better.
Proper cleaning and brightening will ensure the best stain for new cedar wood will perform as expected and provide lasting beauty.
3. New Rough Sawn Cedar Wood
Rough-sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces but rather for vertical surfaces such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood is very absorbent and does not have a mill glaze. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained immediately.
4. Use a Penetrating Wood Stain
Many wood stains have difficulty penetrating dense wood like cedar. If a stain does not penetrate the wood, it will remain on the surface and become susceptible to peeling and flaking. The best wood stains for new cedar are deep-penetrating wood stains that are thinner in viscosity. Stains for new cedar wood should dive deep into the wood to condition the wood cells and protect from UV fading and moisture damage.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
We like a couple of different stains for new cedar wood. One is Armstrong Clark Wood Stain. It comprises both drying and non-drying oils that break apart throughout the application process. The non-drying oils dive into the new cedar to condition the wood’s cellular structure, while the separated drying oils cure on the exposed surface to not only lock in the conditioning oils but also protect the surface from natural weather exposure.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain
Another similar stain best for new cedar wood is Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain. This water-based wood and deck stain penetrates deep into new cedar wood and decks. This cedar stain conditions the wood cells while providing water and UV protection. The Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain brand promises easy application of good penetration into new decking.
My Pro Tip: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain can be applied to damp wood on the same day as prep!
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 | Price range: $239.99 through $257.99 |
4. Best Deck Stains for Cedar
See our best cedar stain options in the table below. You can click on the links to read the full reviews for each.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain  for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood:Â 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $58.99 *Free Shipping |
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5. Staining a New Deck Tips Video
6. Need Help? Cedar Staining Questions?
Please ask below if you have questions about my article or need tips and advice for staining a cedar deck. Just post a comment below and include as much information as possible.
I just built some WRC board and batten shutters from grade #2 1×6’s that I plan on leaving natural to accent the windows. Don’t really want to stain but hate the weathered grey color that it’ll turn to if left unprotected. I have some Cedartone DEFY leftover from a chicken coop project but doesn’t go well for the shutters/window trim accent. My question is; is there a clear UV protected sealer for cedar that you can recommend? Would it need to be re-coated annually to maintain the fresh beauty of the WRC? Thompson’s Water Seal with 2-year UV? Armstrong Clark? DEFY clear? Any nano or titanium/zinc oxide clear options?
Which is the best for recoating/annual/bi-annual maintenance? Thanks
Defy Extreme Clear is the only true clear (no color) that will have some UV protection.
We have a large cedar deck that we were told to treat with a water based semi transparent stain. We live on Oyster Bay, Ny. We have direct sun & needless to say snow in the winter. Two years have gone by & there is a tremendous amount of peeling. From what I have been reading, we should have used an oil base. What steps would you recommend & what products would you recommend to stain correctly? We like a light grey weathered looking color. Thanks…
You will need to remove the old stain. How depends on what brand you used. Try a stain stripper and pressure washing first. If needed, sand off any stain that does not come off with the stain stripper. Brighten all wood after the old coating is removed. Try Armstrong Clark in Driftwood Gray.
We have a large 13 year old cedar deck that has never been treated. We are in the process of removing all of the floor boards to plane them then reinstall. A couple of rotten boards are being replaced. The colour of the refinished boards is lovely and we would like to maintain it. We did not treat the original deck because we have seen surfaces that peeled and had to be sanded and resurfaced annually. Too much work. What would you recommend on a deck that is mainly old wood with a planed surface? We live in the Toronto, Ontario area and the deck is in an area where it gets sun and light shade for most of the day.
Treat like new wood and wait a few months to weather and clean and brighten for prep. Look at Armstrong Calrk stains are they are penetrating and will not peel.
I have a new red cedar deck that has aged almost two years, I was told not to do anything for this period of time. What would you recommend to clean and seal it at this point? Looking for the best process and products to use.
Try Restore A Deck Prepping kits for the cleaning. Since it has oxidized for 2 years, you will most likely be removing a large amount of oxidized wood cells. After the cleaning and brightening, you may need to lightly buff the flooring to remove any wood fuzzies. For the stain, look at Armstrong Clark or TWP stains.
This will be an outdoor project.
How many coats of stains should be done?
Should a coat or two of Polyurethane be put on the stain after it dries?
Thanks for the advise.
Depends on the stain brand you choose but most say just one coat. You cannot add polyurethane to a deck.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
I’m interested in staining new cedar decking black or a very dark grey. Neither of the brands that you mention comes in anything close to that. Can you suggest a brand that does? Thanks.
None really has a black stain or very dark gray in a semi-transparent. Closest would be the TWP 1504 Black Walnut. It is pretty dark. If that does not work, you will need a solid stain that can be tinted black. It will look like a paint though.
So perhaps you can give me some advice on this. Its not a question for a deck but perhaps the same principles apply. I was looking to buy a backyard playset from Costco. I don't want to spend 3 times the money to get less stuff from a place like Rainbow. Anyways, I was thinking about being preemptive with the care of it. It is made from cedar wood. I was thinking that if I were treat it right out of the box before it was assembled that would be easiest and best.
So I figure if I treat it like a deck, something that gets lots of foot traffic it might give it some decent life before it needs to be treated again. I was wondering if you would recommend sanding it and then treating it with stain and sealer right out of the box before assembly? I live in North Dakota so it would have to stand up to some pretty harsh weather and wind year round. Any thoughts or advice?
You can treat the wood the same as a deck, but if it is already pretreated with a stain, there is no reason do it before assembly. In addition, you would need to prep by removing the pre stain before apply another coating. If prestained, just assemble and do the work down the road.
I have a 3 year old cedar deck. 2 questions. I am going to embark on cleaning, brightening and staining it and the pergola, rails, etc. The purgola is not cedar so do I need 2 different stains or can I use the same stain on both woods? Second question – which is the better stain for cedar the TWP 100 or TWP 1500? I want to use a semi-transparent so that the wood grain on the cedar shows.
Thanks, in advance.
You can use the same stain for both wood types. Use TWP 100 if allowed in your state, if not, use the TWP 1500.
Hi. We used a stain for our cedar deck in autumn of 2015 that was highly recommended by a couple of people. We live in Manitoba, Canada and the deck is in direct sunlight for most of the day. In the spring of 2016 it had a layer of black mold on it (despite following directions exactly!) on 2/3 of the deck. We cleaned if off with a bleach/water combo and deck cleaner, and most did come off, and left it for the rest of the year. We would like to stain it again this spring. Because of the mold (not sure how much right now b/c of the snow), is there a certain type of cleaner we should use before staining? Thanks!
Use a Deck Cleaner that will help to kill the mold. We like the Restore A Deck Kits.
Hello. My husband and I are finishing up a small floating deck in New England. The cedar boards are quite a bit softer than we anticipated. The boards dent when my husband walks on the deck in his work boots. This is our main entrance during the winter since it is off the mudroom. Do you have any suggestions, please, for finishes that will protect and/or harden the wood surface? We love the current color of the wood and desire to apply a translucent finish if possible. Thank you!
Sorry, but it is not possible to harden the surface of the wood when applying a deck stain.
Can we use lacquer or clear varnish or anything else…not necessarily stain? Also, I know cedar is a softer wood, but have you seen cedar deck boards dent this easily in your experience? Do you have any other recommendations, like covering the small deck with outdoor carpet to protect it during the winter, please? Thank you for your time and help. =-)
Applying a filming shiny type coating will ruin the wood:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-deck-stain-cannot-be-shiny/
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/apply-polyurethane-to-a-deck/
Cedar is a soft wood and dents/scratches are normal. There really isn’t you can do to stop this.
We have some decks that have not been weathered as they were covered by roof areas.
The wood is old, 1977 but I pulled the boards and planed them and this georgeous white cedar( some say it is Alaskan white or Alaskan yellow cedar.)appeared.
I cannot however get it to accept stain. It is very difficult to get it to match the fir posts that support the deck, not even close. Everything looks orange, the wood has minimal grain. I tried mixing lighter redwood stains with darker but the issue I believe is penetration.
Have tried sanding but know I am down to raw wood natural color no reason to make it thinner.
Any ideas or knowledge on this
I heard there may be a conditioner that make the wood more receiving of stain.
Let it weather. Prep by cleaning and brightening next year. Use a deep penetrating stain like Armstrong Clark in a transparent tint.
This is a great resource for people working with cedar decks. I have resurfaced our deck with new cedar and want to protect it. I want the weathered light grey look to match the house but wod like to apply a good penetrating oil type coating that would only need to be reapplied in the future without sanding or power washing. I'm in Toronto and it might snow in the next 8 weeks.
What product do you recommend available in Canada and do I need to prep?
Not sure what you can buy there. If you want it gray naturally, you will need a clear sealer with no tint/UV protection. You could also use a semi-transparent that is gray tinted to have this look.
Thanks very much. This is very helpful.
Does tinting (UV protection) extend the life of the coating?
If I go the way of a clear coating, would you recommend Timber Oil, Armstrong Clark or Defy Extreme for my application? When would I recoat and would I need to remove the gray film before recoating?
If I go with the tinted semi transparent, does it have the same characteristics of the clear coating? (i.e. Is it the same chemical composition and therefore have the same resistance to peeling for example?) Is semi transparent available in TO, AC and Defy? Could I just apply clear over the gray or would it need to be removed?
The products you mention sound superior to what I can buy in the big box hardware stores in Canada. I think I would just order it from the U.S.
UV protection does help with the longevity.
AC and Timber Oil do not come in a clear. Defy does. You always have to prep when reapplying. Typically just clean and recoat.
You cannot apply a clear sealer over gray oxidized wood. All those stain brands are semi-transparent. Clears with no tint have the same chemical makeup if they are tinted colors. They just take out the colorant.
Great thanks. Last questions…
So if I understand this correctly, if I then go with Defy, the lack of UV protection will allow the cedar to gray which I want. Then when I clean and recoat in the future with the same Defy product, does the underlying grey color stay the same or continue to gray?
I guess my other option would be to use a product that already has a tint similar to oxidized grey cedar. If I go that route, what would you recommend as the best overall product for protection for a new cedar deck?
Thank you in advance for your help.
When you prep down the road you will clean or remove some of the gray oxidation.
If you use a tinted gray color, look at Armstrong Clark in Driftwood Gray.
Thank you for taking the time to post articles like this. I just installed a 16'x16' floating deck using cedar deck boards. I live in San Antonio, TX so very mild winters and long, hot summers. The deck will not get any relief from the sun. My question is, how long should I wait to stain my deck and what product do you recommend. Also, if I follow your advice above to clean and brighten the deck, how long after doing that do I wait to stain the deck? Appreciate the help.
Use the Armstrong Clark. Wait a month or two and prep first with a deck cleaner to remove mill glaze.
Hi,
I'm a little confused. I'm installing a new cedar deck in October/New England. At the top of the article, it states, "new cedar should be cleaned and stained as quickly as possible to avoid water damage and sun fading." However, a lot of responses in the comment section say to wait until the spring? Please help, as I am about to install. Thanks
It really depends on the brand of stain you choose. Some say you can stain cedar soon after install while many will say to weather. Always prep first.
What stain would you recommend? I'm in Massachusetts installing knotty cedar. Thanks
Wait until Spring and use the Armstrong Clark.
What stain would you recommend? I'm in Massachusetts installing knotty cedar. Thanks
Great, thanks
Armstrong Clark.
did your stain hold up? Vermont with yellow cedar stain issues on deck
Just installed a new cedar deck. The deck gets direct sun exposure all day, but I live in Canada, so I am expecting snow in 2 months ;(
So I leave it untreated through fall and winter, and then sand and seal in Spring? Or should I seal it now? If so, what do you recommend that will not flake? Oil?
Awesome Website, thanks!
Let it got through Winter and clean and brighten the wood for the prep in the Spring. Stain with a penetrating stain like the Armstrong Clark.
Have. New cedar deck with Windows customers wanting to let it go gray I'm worried going gray will crack the cedar around the Windows ???????
Tell them to use a clear sealer to help prevent water damage but will gray naturally. Make sure it has no tint at all. Look at Defy Extreme Clear.
I am just about done framing a new deck for the home owner, and has taken me longer than planned. He is trying to keep cost down, buy doesnt want to have high maintenance so wants it to last. He yends to follow my suggestions… The first of which is to not use the knotted deck boards. The price on alaskan yellow cedar seems to be pretty good and it has a nice look. Can you please advise me on the proper stain, and prep procedure/time for both yellow and red to get it right the first time? Deck is in backyard under a large cedar in the puget sound region of washinhton. We are not far from the rainy season so weather may force us to stain in weeks or wait till next spring. I dont expect him to get kiln dried, so wonder about dry time for the lumber itself, and how that will play into it. Would like to keep the original board color. Thank you in advance for the site and help.
Probably best to wait until Spring. Clean and brighten for the prep and look at Armstrong Clark in Amber or TWP in Honeytone.
I just had a new kiln dried cedar deck installed on 10 Sep 2016. I live in Colorado at 7,300 feet elevation and the deck gets a lot of sun because it is south facing (8-10 hours, 300 days a year). The deck will also get 3-7 feet of snow each winter. Should I stain the deck right away or wait three months to stain. Your site suggests an Armstrong Clark semi solid stain (for UV) and that the deck should be cleaned and brightened with the restore a deck kit. Is this the best way to go and again, should I stain it immediately or wait? We may have snow as early as October.
We would wait. Clean and brighten for the prep.
Hi, my husband just installed a new cedar deck, within a few weeks after some rain, there are some dark grey spots throughout. We would like to remove these spots and then stain the deck. I tried the bleach test to see if it was mildew/mold but nothing happened. I would like some recommendations for wood cleaners, wood brighteners and the best stain to use that doesn't flake or peel. Some people say we should stain the deck right away, some say we should let the wood weather anywhere from 3-12months. We live in NY and our deck gets direct sun for about 6 hours a day. Thanks so much for any help you can give, we are desperate.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with Armstrong Clark.
We are just finishing installing an 800sqft western red cedar deck. The lumber yard recommended and sells TWP 1500 series and with the positive reviews here we will probably go with that. We will probably stain with Cedartone shade. We haven't even finished building the deck and the boards are already graying. I understand that TWP wants us to wait to stain. So, just to be clear, I am supposed to let the wood go gray? Will a cleaner and brightener easily return it to its natural color when I go to stain in a few months? You recommend the Restore a Deck for that? Then when I go to stain it's just a 3 step process…clean, brighten, stain with TWP? Last question- if we finish the deck in the next week or so (mid September 2016) when would you recommend we should stain? We live in Atlanta, GA with full afternoon sun on the deck. Our last deck staining experience was an absolute catastrophe. We want to make sure we get it right this time! Thank you so much…this website has been so helpful!!!
Yes you want it to go gray first. The prep will remove the gray later. RAD makes very good products for this. Might want to read their directions for the wait and the prep when using TWP. They suggest 4-12 months and only one coat after the prep.
Very helpful! Thank you so much for your quick response!!
I want my cedar deck to maintain it's original cedar color. WIll a clear waterproofer do this and keep it from going grey and old looking ??
No. A clear will not provide UV protection from graying. You must have a tint or color to achieve this. The more color you have, the longer it lasts.
Have a new cedar deck that was installed in Nebraska in mid June 2016. Looking to stain with TWP Dark Oak 103. Would love to have stained before the winter months. When would be the best time to stain. What needs to be done in advance of stain? Sand? Wash? Cleaner and Brightener?
TWP wants the new wood to weather for 4-12 months. Prep first with their Gemini Cleaner/Brightener Restore Kit and only apply one light coat this year. Next year you would need to light wash/rinse to remove any dirt and apply another light coat to the horizontals. After this, you will need to redo every 2 years, maybe 3 depending on your weather.
Is the timber oil stain you recommend for new cedar the Woodrich brand?
Which products do you recommend to clean and brighten before we use the Timber oil?
Yes that is correct. We normally use the Restore a Deck products for prep.
A question. We had a new cedar deck built that supposedly, from the deck installer, should be stained right away. Does this still need to be cleaned/brightened? While I can get that done quickly, the stains recommended aren't sold at Home Depot, Lowes, or any other place I can find around here. We live in MN and am looking for a good stain that can be picked up locally. We are looking for a darker red wood color. We found Armstrong Clark line (Red Sierra), but can't find anyway to get it but shipping it in. Would love to get it done sooner. Thanks in advance!!
Yes you have to prep. Armstrong wants you to let new cedar weather for 3 months. Always follow the directions of the stain you are using as to when to stain new wood.
Hello! The Article n comments are very useful. For my situation I had installed a new cedar deck 3 years ago raw n unstained. Right now I'm planning to do some major work – staining! Please advise what's the best step to follow and the best product to use. Thanks 🙂
Prep with Restore a Deck cleaning kits and pressure washing. Stain with TWP 1500 Series or Armstrong Clark.
Used non beach deck clearner my cedar looks bleached. What do I do?
Try to brighten the deck.
We're going to stain a patio set that my husband built. He used cedar and he sanded every inch smooth. Can you recommend anything different from what you would do for a deck?
Thanks in advance!
Try the TWP stains.
Looking to build a kiln dried cedar deck. Lumber yard that specializes in western red cedar says I can sand it and then stain, no need to wait. Also no need to brighten. Etc If I sand. If that is true, what grit should I use. They also recommend staining all sides before installation. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Follow manufacturer directions of the stain brand you choose, not the lumberyard. Most want some weathering and prep, even for kiln dried. See our article here:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-…
No need to stain all sides.
I have cedar spindles I want to use on my deck. They have been sitting outside on a concrete slab under a tarp for 4 1/2 years. Do I have to anything to prep them for staining?
Clean and pressure wash them after install.
I have a client looking to stain a cedar pergola an ebony color. I'm not seeing a close color on either the Armstrong Clark or Timber oil brands. Any suggestions?
Not in those brands. Closest would be TWP 1504 Black Walnut.
Thanks for the great knowledge of prepping/staining cedar. We are finishing up a new deck and are going to be using cedar 4x4s and 2×4 for our railing. Just so we do this right – we should use wood cleaner and then a semi-transparent stain to keep the color of the wood? Do we need to lightly use sandpaper to very gently rough up the surface before or after the wood cleaner?
Thank You!
No need to sand. Lightly wash and apply just one light coat of stain this year.
Should you stain a new cedar deck right away or just wait a year. Do you do anything to it the first year
Thanks
We like to wait for the most part unless you use a product like the Timber oil brand. Always prep first on new wood.
Tremendous website, you are a god send!
Anyways, I recently bought a house with a 1000sq-ft deck which encompasses an above ground pool. I bought the house during the winter and didn't realize the previous owner had coated the deck with the crap Rustoleum Restore which flaked and peeled to holy hell. I am in the process of replacing all the decking boards with cedar.
I am not partial to any particular product, I just want best results and hopefully something that I will not have to be continually stripping. Armstrong Clark and Timber Oil both look like good options. I live in upstate NY, with full sun during the summers and pretty tough winters (a deck's worst nightmare). I'm leaning towards Restore-A-Deck for my cleaning/brightening.
Thoughts on best course of action?
We would let the new wood weather until the Fall, prep with the RAD kits, and apply one coat of the AC. Apply another coat after a light cleaning in 12-19 months or as needed. Every 2 years after that.
Very much appreciate this helpful forum! I purchased a floor model Dundalk red cedar barrel sauna that has been on display outside in the elements of northern Ontario for about a year and a half. It will soon be moved a few kilometres to my cabin site in the woods. Any advice on how to treat the outside of the sauna to enhance/preserve the integrity of the wood? Thanks so much for any advice you can provide!
Clean and brighten the wood for prep and use a semi-transparent stain like the Armstrong Clark or Defy Extreme.
Thank you!
Thanks for response other brands than twp,not that I have anything against this brand ,just looking for best performer as I mentioned 3000 sq ft deck,also th is deck is a wrap around porch so it has roof with 2'overhang.along with the two you recommend throw in cabots Australian timber your thoughts on the three and which do you think would be best suited cost is not a factor since this has been a very long project just want quality materials (sort of a perfectionist ) thanks
The Cabot ATO used to be a great stain until they changed the formula. Not the same and we do not use it anymore. Look at the AC as it does penetrate better. Semi-transparent or semi-solid color.
Looking for the best performing translucent stain for new cedar deck 3000sq ft do not want to make any mistakes , you seem partial to TWP what any other brands. In northern il
Look at the Armstrong Clark as well. Penetrates newer wood better.
We built a new cedar deck last summer 2015 and were told to wait to stain it. Now we are at the point of selecting and not knowing what to do. How to prepare the floor. Do you sand it or not? What is the best stain to use? How often do you stain it? I live in Minnesota if this plays into the decision. Advice please.
Prep with a wood cleaner and wood brightener to restore the color and remove the oxidation. Use a penetrating stain that is semi-transparent. This will still show the grain, but enhance the color. Also less likely to peel. Penetrating stains are easier to maintain down the road every 2 years or so. Try the Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 Series.
We had new stairs and railings (cedar) replaced to our deck in Sept./Oct. 2014. (Floor was existing) Living in MN we were told to wait until summer 2015 before applying a stain. We put two coats on the entire deck in June 2015. After this winter we now have a horrible looking deck with tons of flaking and peeling all over even on the floor. We used Pittsburgh stain which they now have reimbursed us 3 gallons due to our trouble but we don't know what to do fix the problem before staining. Everyone has different opinions. Do we: power wash the entire deck? Add a cleaner? Strip off the existing stain? Or, what? Advice please.
You have to remove the failing stain. Strip or sand to remove. We would suggest switching brands as well. You do not want to have a repeat next Spring.
What prep should I do on western red cedar bought from the store before I stain it ? I want to stain before I build the deck and a pergola. Should I stain both sides ? Can I stain it right when I receive it and install it a few days later ? I'm planning to use an oil based translucent stain from arborcoat.
Well the Arbor coat will most likely peel. see the reviews here and on the internet. Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener to remove mill glaze. No need to stain all sides and we would not prestain. Install, prep, and stain according the stain manufacturers directions for new wood.
Thanks. I read your arborcoat review, although unfortunately after I bought the stain. However, it seems that in the review, what was used is the water based solution. Also, the picture seems like a solid stain. Surely there is a difference for peeling between a water based solid stain and an oil based translucent one ?
Also, does it make a difference for staining the under side if the deck is close to the ground ? It will be 14 inches to the ground. The vendor at the store said that with a low deck, it is best to stain the under side as well.
No need to stain the undersides.
I'm thinking of installing cedar decking on the floor of a screened porch. The floor will get diffused sun and some rain. What is the best way to finish the decking so it maintains the look of new fresh cedar. I plan to buy planks from a supplier with indoor storage and can put the finish on the planks before installation.
Prep first to remove the mill glaze and try the Defy Extreme or TWP.
We installed a new cedar deck last summer. We cleaned the mill and then stained it using Sikkens. I believe the directions on the Sikkens was 1 coat only. The finish is rather uneven with darker spots and shine in some areas. We just cleaned it with an Olympic Cleaner and it looks better but still uneven. What should I do before staining again and should I switch products? I do not want to use a solid stain; I want the cedar to look as natural as possible
You need to remove the Sikkens. Try the Restore a Deck Stain stripper and a good pressure washing to remove as much as possible. Sand the rest if it does not all strip off. Brighten the wood when done and rinse well. Stain with a penetrating stain that is semi-transparent. TWP or Armstrong Clark.
I have a cedar deck that is maybe 10 years old but very sturdy and I used some bear deck over on the floor of the deck (bad decision ) it bubbled and peeled, I plan on sanding it down and going over it with a light tinted stain / sealer in hopes of keeping the gray at bay and I have a question , how soon can I stain after sanding and what stain do you suggest
Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener after the sanding. you can go ahead and do it then. Try TWP stains.
Will you be testing Sansin dec?
We do not have plans to test the Sansin.
What is the best stain to use on a cedar deck that has aged for over a year (is now very grey). Ideally we would like a nice redish cedar colour and long lasting through Canadian weather.
Prep with a Deck Cleaner and Wood brightener to restore the color and remove the gray. Use Armstrong Clark. Maybe Sierra Redwood or Semi-transparent Cedar.
I just had a cedar deck installed 2 weeks ago. I love the color it is now. If I use Timber Oil brand if I use a clear coat will it keep it from greying? Also how often will I have to treat the deck?
No a clear with no tint/color does not offer UV protection. Treat every two years.
First this is a great web site. Very helpful. However, even though I am more informed, I am also a little confused. I read the one article that says it is very important to let the deck board age and weather before they are cleaned and stained and I understand the reasons why. But now in this article it says; “new cedar should be cleaned and stained as quickly as possible to avoid water damage and sun fading.” So exactly what does that mean? I am about to start to resurface my deck. I have a cedar deck I installed 25 years ago. I am replacing all of the deck boards with new cedar. I live in the Southern part of NJ. I was thinking that I should Install the new decking now and then clean, brighten and stain in the early fall. Is this the correct treatment? Also, would your suggest the Armstrong or TWP product for my area? I like the idea of the separate drying oils in the Armstrong product.
Thank you.
Rich, yes it is confusing and sorry for this. It really comes down to which stain you want to use and their suggestions for Cedar wood. They are not the same. For example TWP wants 4-12 months of weathering no matter the wood type. AC wants 2-3 months. Defy says you can stain cedar right away, but says to wait 3+ months for PTP. Timber Oil or Ready Seal can be applied right away as well. If you want to use the AC, wait a few months, lightly clean and then apply one coat this year. Lightly clean in 12-18 months and apply a light coat again to the horizontals. After that you should be good for every 2+ years.
Thank you for the quick and very informative reply.
I am about to build a pergola with eastern cedar I cut from my property just 5 days ago. How much dry time do I need before using? The wood is very beautiful & red now and I DO NOT want to change the color. What is the best way to seal and protect to preserve the color and prevent graying? (Product type plus manufacturer)
You cannot prevent graying without changing the color. The tint is the UV blocker. Clear sealers with no tint will not provide UV protection. You should wait a month to dry before applying.
I am building a new home, wanting to side the house with cedar board and batten. What is the proper way to prep the cedar and can you recommend a stain that will best put up with the elements as we have southern exposure so there will be a lot of sun/heat.
Prep with a deck cleaner and wood brightener. Try the Restore A Deck Kits. Stain with TWP or Defy Extreme stains.
Thanks for all the info. I have a cedar pergola designed and built about a month ago. The cedar is rough sawn. Does it still need to be cleaned and brightened? I live in Mississippi – hot and humid in the summer. Should I stain now to prevent fading? If so, what do you recommend?
Also , I have a wooden deck underneath built from pressure treated lumber. I think it would need to be cleaned and brightened before staining. Right? How long should I wait to stain it? Thanks!
We would wait until Spring. Clean and brighten for the prepping and stain with Defy Extreme or TWP 100 Series.
I am building a western cedar deck in the spring. Would it be a good idea to buy the wood now and season it in my garage (in Minnesota, so install in 5 or 6 months)? Would I need to prepare the wood before staining it if I go this route? Do you have a stain that you think works best in very cold climates?
Best to season outside after being built. It will not season indoors in a garage. Always need to prep new wood with a deck cleaner and wood brightener.