This post was updated on April 4, 2025
I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in staining cedar decks. Most of the wood decks we have worked on have been western red cedar, and when new, you should take care to use a proper wood stain. See here for more info about me.
Best Stain for New Cedar Wood Deck
New Smooth Wood
I appreciate you visiting Deckstainhelp.com, your go-to source for the latest deck restoration news and trending topics through 2026. If you are looking for honest deck stain ratings, look no further. In this updated article, we offer suggestions for how to prepare and stain a new cedar deck. Feel free to leave a comment below.
My Tips for Choosing a Cedar Deck Stain
Are you trying to find the best cedar wood and decking stain? Here are a few things to consider when comparing options and how to stain your brand-new cedar.
- Weather the Cedar Wood
- Prepping New Cedar Wood
- Is your Cedar Rough-Sawn
- Choose a Penetrating Wood Stain
- Compare Best Cedar Stain
- Watch My How to Stain a New Deck Video
- If you have questions on New Cedar Stains, ask me below.
1. Weather the New Cedar Deck
Many types of cedar are used for exterior surfaces, with Red Cedar being the most common. We recommend waiting 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better. (Always follow the stain brand’s directions, though.) After the weathering, all new cedar wood should be cleaned and brightened for the prep. This will remove any oxidation and mill glaze.
2. Prep New Cedar Wood
Prepping new cedar wood is important to stain life and performance. It should be cleaned using a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner to remove mill glaze and other contaminants that may have infiltrated the wood during construction.
Once the new cedar wood has been cleaned, it will appear darker. While the wood is still wet, apply a wood brightener to restore its original color. Brightening wood after it has been cleaned will also open the wood pores, allowing the conditioning oils to penetrate better.
Proper cleaning and brightening will ensure the best stain for new cedar wood will perform as expected and provide lasting beauty.
3. New Rough Sawn Cedar Wood
Rough-sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces but rather for vertical surfaces such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood is very absorbent and does not have a mill glaze. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained immediately.
4. Use a Penetrating Wood Stain
Many wood stains have difficulty penetrating dense wood like cedar. If a stain does not penetrate the wood, it will remain on the surface and become susceptible to peeling and flaking. The best wood stains for new cedar are deep-penetrating wood stains that are thinner in viscosity. Stains for new cedar wood should dive deep into the wood to condition the wood cells and protect from UV fading and moisture damage.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain
We like a couple of different stains for new cedar wood. One is Armstrong Clark Wood Stain. It comprises both drying and non-drying oils that break apart throughout the application process. The non-drying oils dive into the new cedar to condition the wood’s cellular structure, while the separated drying oils cure on the exposed surface to not only lock in the conditioning oils but also protect the surface from natural weather exposure.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain
Another similar stain best for new cedar wood is Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain. This water-based wood and deck stain penetrates deep into new cedar wood and decks. This cedar stain conditions the wood cells while providing water and UV protection. The Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain brand promises easy application of good penetration into new decking.
My Pro Tip: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain can be applied to damp wood on the same day as prep!
4. Best Deck Stains for Cedar
See our best cedar stain options in the table below. You can click on the links to read the full reviews for each.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
 |  |  |
From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $41.99 *Plus Shipping |
5. Staining a New Deck Tips Video
6. Need Help? Cedar Staining Questions?
Please ask below if you have questions about my article or need tips and advice for staining a cedar deck. Just post a comment below and include as much information as possible.
I am planning on putting in a port orford cedar deck. Can you recommend products that would work best to stain and seal this type of wood? I live in Centennial, Colorado. I had a friend recommend arborcoat but it seems like the reviews out there are mixed big time.
Try the TWP 100 Series.
Thank you so much!
One of the stains you recommend is timber oil brand, is that who makes it or just the kind of stain ? cabot makes one like that I see.
No, not Cabot. Timber Oil Brand is made by Woodrich.
I’m installing a new, kiln-dried, red cedar deck. My local hardware store carries Defy Deck Stain for Hardwoods, and Defy recommends it for cedar. Do you think it compares favorably with the Armstrong-Clark and Timber Oil recommended in this article? Thanks for your thoughts!
Defy makes very good products. Use he Hardwood version for the new cedar. It will soak in better.
I have an old deck out of western red cedar. I have removed all the boards because they used non-galvanized nails and I’ve decided to plane the boards down to 1-1/8″. Ideally I would like a clear coat or transluscent stain in order to keep the original colour of the wood rather than a solid stain. The deck is fully exposed to the elements.
What is the best product to use for this application?
Any of these brands will work:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I’m building a rough sawn white cedar patio and a white cedar picnic table with live edges. For the deck, what is the best option to maintain its natural color, keep from graying, and minimized maintenance? I did not plan on cleaning it as it.
For the picnic table I’m really looking to maintain its natural beautiful grains and would like little maintenance and easy recoating. Thinking of a either a deep penetrating stain with sealer or some kind of stain with marine sealer or varnish over the top? Would you recommend a marine sealer/varnish? If so which ones are easy to recoat? Thanks! Great article.
You cannot use a varnish on outside wood not can you top coat a stain with a sealer/coating, it will peel.
See this about new wood: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-deck/
What is a sodium percarbonate wood cleaner and how is it used? Are there any videos on how to do this?
Restore A Deck and EFC-38 are both deck cleaners that contain sodium percarbonate. They have instructions on their websites.
Why has Behr Penetrating Oil turned my cedar deck so dark?
Becuase Behr makes bad products. With the oil version, it attracting dirt and mildew. Best to strip it off, brighten the wood, and stain with the TWP Wood Stain.
I am replacing the cedar slats on my pergola and keeping the larger support beams. They are stained a dark color. What do you recommend for staining and sealing the new roofing boards (2 x 2s) so that it matches?
Strip and brighten all and then use a dark color like the TWP 1503 Dark Oak.
Thank you!
I’m just building a new knotty cedar pergola. Timber is being shipped direct from the mill. Do I need to clean it before spray applying the stain? Also i was told by the mill that ‘Olympic stain and seal’ would be fine as it’s not being trafficked underfoot?
You have to prep to remove the mill glaze.
I just replaced my deck planks with red cedar. I live in Oregon where we get a lot of rain but in our three months of nice weather the deck has full sun. What would be the best stain/sealer to use and can I apply it right away? We really want to use our deck as soon as possible since our nice weather time is so limited.
Try the Timber Oil Brand if you want to stain right away.
First of all, you’re awesome for running this site and answering everyone’s questions.
I just replaced my deck planks with yellow cedar and I bought some stain at Lowe’s, Olympic Elite Stain and Sealer. After reading this site, I get the impression that choosing a good stain is important. Should I bail on this stain? The problem is that we sampled a bunch and really liked the color of this. Buying online seems risky because we can’t sample first. Bottom line is that we want to do a fairly dark stain and do it right the first time. Thought? Thanks man!
You want a penetrating semi-transparent deck stain like one of these: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Not just a sealer. Just one coat for new wood.
Just now replacing 450 ft^2 of decking with cedar. Deck is on the south side of the house in direct sunlight. What is a good UV resistant stain / sealer and how long should I wait to apply?
Wait a few months and use Armstrong Clark.
i am put in a new deck with Alaskan yellow ceder . live in Idaho. what should i do to keep the color
thank you
Try Armstrong Clark wood stains.
A little confused. This article says “Unlike some types of wood that need to dry out, new cedar should be cleaned and stained as quickly as possible to avoid water damage and sun fading”. Replays to questions posted on this article and elsewhere on this site indicate that you must wait for the wood to weather, clean, brighten and then stain. Which is it, wait to weather or stain as quickly as possible as the article says?
Greg, it really depends on the stain brand you choose. Did you pick one?
I have not. Would like to stain sooner vs later, what would you recommend? And what would the wait time be?
Try Armstrong Clark. Wait a month, prep to remove the mill glaze, apply one light coat of the AC stain when staining the first time.
Our screen porch floor deck is 30 years old and in good shape. We want to sand off old floor polyurethane and stain the cedar floor. We live in Massachusetts and deck is north facing, so mostly shade with minimal sun from sky lights. Some water from storms and winter snows, but that has not damage floor over the years.
Try Restore A Deck Wood Stain or TWP 1500 Series.
Hello and thank you for your information. My question is about a deck that is years old, the stain that was applied by a contractor is sticky, so I cleaned it and scrubbed it with vinegar and soap and it looks great, but it isn’t new, what stain would you recommend, I understand I’m short on time, it was cleaned Monday of this week, I live in Washington so the weather here should be considered as well when selecting a sealer.
Thanks
Andrew
Ddi you remove all of the old sealer? It does need to come off fully. Stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Wood stains.
Neither Armstrong Clark nor Woodrich are available to purchase anywhere but online, it seems – am I missing something? Why are they so hard to find?
Hello,
Best to contact the manufacturers for local distribution or to buy online.
Just a little addt’l info: the 5.5″ cedar boards have already shrunk about 1/16-1/8″ , and their moisture is reading mostly in the 6-10% range, sometimes going to 12% here and there. Other products considered are Penofin and Cabot’s Timber Oil . Also I’m in Calif, so if I were to use TWP, It would have the be the 1500 line.
And one last thing, I’ve been really trying to figure out if I want to soak the bottom, ground contact board with something like Green’s Clear Wood Preservative , which has 1% copper quinolinolate. , Advisable? Does it really do anything? They do have their green and brown versions, but I’m trying to keep the look as natural as possible .
Thanks!
Look at Armstrong Clark or the TWP 1500, just one coat. Yes, you need to clean and brighten for the prep to remove the mill glaze. No need for the “Greens” product plus it could have issues with the stain. Up to you if you want to do both sides. Most people do.
each side will run me $1250 materials and labor. Those are pretty good rates around here.
What happens if I just do one side, down the road I mean?
You will have bleed through of the stain on the opposite side and it will look unslightly. Best to do both at the same time to avoid this.
Just put up a new cedar fence. It’s massive. and the wood was beautiful 3.5 weeks ago when it went up. Pink and white. I had to go out of town for a few weeks. Came back it’s much yellower . Very disappointed. Not sure if I could have locked in the pink’s, red’s, white shades if I had oiled immediately. But in any event, it is what it is, and I’m at this point now. What’s the best path forward? Which product? TPW? Messmer’s Something else? Must I so the sodium percarbonate and brightener first? It’s literally nearly brand new. and it’s 1200 sq feet, so it’s a massive task to coat it. My goal is to UV protect it and preserve the color. Which products? How many coats? Also— bonus points for an answer to this please. do I need to cover the Back side of the fence? It’s the neighbor’s view. If I don’t coat that will it negatively impact “my side”? Thanks!!!! From Sonoma County, CA
also— is one coat in fact good enough? and you’re ok with not waiting 2-4 months before application of TWP so long as I clean and brighten first? is that correct?
and finally, do you have a preferred method of application for this smooth, brand new, cedar fence ?
Just one coat for new wood. No, the new smooth wood must weather 4-12 months and then clean and brighten for the prep if using the TWP or any other brand. Use a stain pad or brush.
Whats the harm in not waiting 4-12 months?!
It will soak in correctly and fail.
forgot to mention the wood is kiln dried, and I’ve measured the moisture content, and it comes in at 6-10%. does that impact your guidance at all?
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/staining-a-new-kdat-deck/
I have a single cedar post installed end of Oct 2017. It is in it’s raw, untreated state. What should I do first? Lightly sand, use a wood oil or “conditioner”, then stain? Or, do I just use an oil based semi-transparent stain? It seems dry…I want a natural look that shows all the grain. Suggestions as to best product for this project?
Try Armstrong Clark in Natural or Restore-A-Deck Wood stain in Natural. If rough sawn wood you can stain now if clean. If smooth wood, you should clean and brighten for the prep.
I just bought a cedar gazebo. I’m thinking I should stain it prior to putting it together (its a kit). Is that a good approach, or should I assemble it first, let it weather, then stain it?
Let weather, prep and stain.
Thanks. Much appreciated….
is boiled linseed oil good for preserving cedar logs and keeping their color
No. Will do nothing to keep the color as it will have zero UV protection. Does not preserve the wood either.
In one article I read to let new decking weather for 1-12 months before applying stain. In another article I read it is best to stain new cedar decking right away. In an answer to a question from the second article, I read it is still best to let cedar wood weather at least 2-3 months. We just purchased new cedar decking. It is October in Wisconsin, snow is coming and we want to make sure we do the right thing. We would prefer to use a paraffin based stain as advised in your articles to bring out the beauty of the wood. I am sure I just misunderstood the articles and would really appreciate it if you could help me. Should we let our cedar weather over the winter then clean, brighten and stain in the spring or summer of 2018, or should we stain the cedar now before the snow comes? We are interested to use Armstrong Clark, TWP, or other premium stain. Thanks so much for your help and have a great day.
Always best to follow the directions of the stain brand you choose. AC says to wait about 3 months and prep first. TWP say 4-12 months and prep first. This is for all wood types.
Is there a stain that can be applied with a sprayer vs. brushing? We have a new cedar pergola. Brushing would be very time consuming. Hoping that stains can be applied with a sprayer.
You can spray but you will need to back wipe drips, etc. Try the Timber Oil Brand by Woodrich.
Hello,
I’ve got an approximately 10yr old cedar deck that was stained a hideous reddish orange solid by the contractor who flipped the house. We just spent the last 3 days stripping, sanding with a drum, then using a hand grinder with a 60 grit, then 80, then 120. The wood is as bare as we can get it on the horizontal boards. Can we now use a semi transparent stain? We will likely use a different solid on the pickets for a two tone, as it would be horrific to sand the solid stain off those!
Thanks!!
Should be good to go with the two toned deck.
I found that a 3000 or 3500 PSI power washer removes both latex and oil stains to get a deck down to the bare wood on all surfaces
I have a 13-year-old cedar front porch. I just sanded the previous layers off with a belt sander but I have about an inch left around all the edges where the sander couldn’t reach. Should I use a chemical stripper to take this off before I put down fresh stain (or sand it by hand)? Any brand recommendations? Thanks!
Not sure if a stripper will remove it or not. Depends on the type of stain that it is? It does need to be removed first though. As for stain, try one of these: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Curious what you would use on a new yellow cedar deck?
Try the Timber Oil Brand by Woodrich.
I just put Messmer’s UV Plus in Oak Brown color on the bottoms of the new western red cedar deck boards. It reads orangish, but not as orange as most I’ve seen. Is there a good oil based stain that has any colors that don’t read orange-ish or yellowish? I’d like a medium or light color, not the extremely dark browns or grays.
Do you think the orange tone of the Oak Brown will go away as it ages?
Also, it rained a few hours after I put the stain on (on the bottoms of the boards, which I plan to turn over to screw them down with the good side up). But the rain didn’t bead on some of the boards that were fresh from the mill. Should I use an orbital sander on the good sides of those boards to prep for stain?
Messmers wants new wood to weather for 8 weeks and prepped first before staining. Did you do this?
Sanding is not good for prep. Reduces the ability to soak into the wood.
Color fades through the years.
Thank you for your reply. These boards are also kiln dried. When I spoke to someone at the Messmer’s 800 number, he told me to go ahead and stain now. However, I now have the good side of them facing up again and will leave them for as long as necessary before staining.
I still need to figure out which color will look least orange. Right now I am thinking the “Natural” which is what the Messmer’s rep suggested. It’s still orangish yellow, though. I’m guessing some chemical that is required for either UV or microbe protection has an orange color and that’s why all these oil based stains look orange…
So now I need to figure out how long to let the boards weather. In 8 weeks it will probably be raining a lot more.
We recently installed a new cedar deck. We used Olympic Maximum clear sealer and waterproofer. The problem is we did two coats per the instructions on the container and now find out we should have done just one. Our problem is it is tacky and looks like we over applied when we didn’t. What can we do to get rid of this problem? We tried mineral spirits on a small area and it doesn’t seem to e doing anything.
Strip or sand it all off is the only way to fix this.
Can you stain Ceader white in color?
It would have to be a solid color deck stain to be white in color.
I live in WA state and just had a Alaskan yellow cedar deck installed. We would like the color to be a darker brown but don’t want to use paint/stain. All of the semi-transparent stains we have sampled don’t show or look cheap. We have tried cobat and behr. I have seen that Armstrong Clark is better for cedar, is this true for yellow cedar also? Will the stain actually show?
Yes it is better and the wood grain will show through. Look at Rustic Brown color.
We winstalled a new yellow cedar deck last May in Vermont. Likewise, we want a deep dark brown stain to look cohesive with our interior dark wood floors. I painstakingly did everything I was told. Washed the mill glaze off, lightly sanded and stained immediately (no need to aclimate or curewood/better penatration of stain (?)). Well, the stain sat on the deck and never penatrated. This is after one winter,. I am very bummed because we replaced the entie deck so we didnt have to scrap old stain off the mahogany deck which did have some rot. We were told this was the BEST lumber for our project. I researched for hours and ended up using Super Deck stain as recommended by our local paint shop. HELP!! The look I am trying to be cohesive with is in the third photo.
Strip and brighten for the prep with Restore A Deck Stripper Kit. Stain with TWP 1503 Dark Oak or Restore A Deck Stain in Dark Walnut.
just had deck stained cedar wood they used oil base stain have runs and brush marks any way to repair.stain is flood semi transparent
No not really possible to spot fix. Might need to strip and start over.
can oil stain be thinned just had it put up and have brush marks and runs .how can I repair
I have a six year old cedar deck which was just cleaned and sanded. Now I’m ready to stain it and want to show the wood grain in the cedar with little tint. Any recommendations. Thanks
Armstrong Clark or the TWP stains.
In the article above it is stated that I should stain the cedar deck as soon as possible but in the other article on this website and per manufacturer’s (Armstrong Clark) recommendations it should be stained 2-3 months from installation. Which one is it? Am I expecting to see any damage for waiting 2-3 months?
Always best to follow directions of the manufacturer as they know their stain best. There will be no damage waiting and the prep will remove any dirt or oxidation that occurs.
Hi! Any recommendation for an equivilant product in Canada/Quebec? I would prefer to be able to go to a store than online shipping only. Thanks
Sorry but we do not live there and it seems most Canadians are having a hard time finding a decent stain in local stores since the VOC laws changed there.
hi,
have a cedar deck two years old , had to sand it down to bare wood , I used floor for cedar, it cracked and peeled and looked awful, I live in Maine and snow and ice builds on deck in winter, rain, wind hot humid days in summer, I get no stain will last , but would like something that will work or can just restain if needed, thanks for all advice
Use a penetrating coating like one of these:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Rocky:
Did you get any replies. …? Pretty much in the same boat. ..had an upper level deck where i used rough cut cedar 2 x 10 as the joists untreated. ..covered it with PT 2×6’s spruce and applied a solid stain. No longer any stain on the PT…but it sure hung in on the untreated cedar perimeter boards that I had covered as well. Big mistake I had made was to think that gapping the spruce. .. so that rain would run down on to the metal soffit that I had applied to the bottom of the joists and pitched for runoff. ..would keep it dry and give me a spot to BBQ out of the weather.
The spacing allowed all the “crap from the surrounding cedar and hardwood trees ” to land on the deck…work it’s way down to the metal soffit and stay there. ..up against the bottom of the joists.
Have since removed all the soffit. ..exposed the now stained cedar (greying) joists. … it’still still easier to clean the Trex lower deck with a hose than to face rotting wood joists in the future.
Let me know if you come up with a few ideas.
hi
what is the best semi transparent deck stain for a new cedar deck?
Try the Armstrong Clark or Defy Extreme stains.
I would like to use a penetrating stain on a new cedar deck to replace an old cedar deck surface. Is there a penetrating stain stain product that can be applied which will stabilize the color and not require too much maintenance to maintain that color? Do the solvent based stains present a long term toxicity hazard? Is it safe for pets and kids to walk on barefoot? What exactly is done for maintenance and how often?? Any information would be great. Thank You
Look at one of these products https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
Clean and recoat every couple of years.
I just purchased a hot tub that has a cedar skirt around it. It will be placed on a screened and covered porch. I was just planning on using Olympic MAXIMUM® Stain + Sealant in One Solid Color. Is this sufficient or should I also clean and brighten the new cedar prior to sealing it? Thanks!
Do you want it to look painted? Always prep before applying.
I just sanded my two year old cedar deck, removing all of the old Behr semi-transparent cedar tinted stain. I will use a deck brightener/wash, and then stain it with an oil-based product. Brand recommendations for the wash and stain? Also, can I stain immediately, or should I wait for some period?
How fine of a grit did you sand with?
60 grit.
Lightly prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with TWP or Amstrong Clark.
Thanks, I will give them a try. Do I do wet on wet? Also, since the wood is not new, but just freshly sanded, will I need to do another coat next year? Appreciate the help!
One coat this year another light coat next year.
Hello
Great article, thanks! Do you have any recommendations for a finish/sealer that will not alter the color of the cedar. I am about to install and I’m hoping to find a product that will not change the
color or only slightly (not looking for much grain enhancement).
A friend recommended making a mineral oil/beeswax blend, any thoughts?
No color = no Uv protection from graying. Do you want it to gray naturally?
No. I don’t want wany it to gray, nor do I want to apply a product that makes the wood orange or artificial looking. I’m looking for a product that finishes clear without changing the natural look of the cedar or keeps tye cedar as close to its natural color.
If you want UV protection it has to have color and that will change the natural look of the cedar by enhancing it in whatever color you choose. I would suggest getting some samples to test from Armstrong Clark.
Can I buy the Armstrong Clark or the Timder oil brand in quebec??
Check with the manufacturers but we do not hink so.
Moved into a new house in the PNW in mid August last year. Did not have time to stain the cedar deck due to work and weather. I just finished cleaning the deck but it still has the “Sun bleached/faded color” on it, some spots having that fuzzy feeling. What is my best course of action now? Can I use the wood brightener with the faded color layer on top and then apply a Defy stain and have the same results? I am weary of oil based in the PNW due to all the rain.
See this: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Brighten after before using the Defy.
Has anyone used Ready Seal, reviews are thru the roof. Thanks
Yes. It is #5 on our list. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
We think there are better stains.
Cedar deck, full sun, northern NY, Sikkens natural cetol stain for decks.
I built the deck 2 years ago. After the first rain I noticed that black color was showing on the deck. When it dried the black went away. This spring peeling started to show. I was told to have more stain color should be added to the natural stain I have. Also, to sand the deck down the bare wood then rests in it. I’m ready to do that. I have almost a new 5 gallons of stain left. But I am hesitant to add color a try it again. I don’t really want sand every two years.
I was told it is not tannins and I’m sure it’s not mold.
Any suggestions?
Looks like rust possibly? Did anyone use steel wool on it? To fix you need to strip and brighten all the wood. The brightener is key to removing the black but it has to be stripped first. FYI, your natural color by Sikkens is lightly tinted/colored already.
So after I strip it I use a solution to brighten it?
Yes.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-is-a-deck-brightener-and-why-use-one/
This is what hapened to our deck almost immediately after staining in 70 degree dry weather. I pain stakenly took my time and hand applied and wiped as suggested. I used a wash to get the mill wax off and hand sanded to open the wood up. Walked on it with wet feet, they were black. It is not mold but the stain. It did not penetrate.
I am getting ready to have my screened porch (built less than a year ago), using standard knotty cedar, and Cabot Stain. the porch has cracked and splitting horizontal boards.
Most contractors, including #Pavel Remodelling, LLC in MD do not know how to treat and stain wood to last more than a year. I cannot rebuild the porch (structural part of the house) every year or two. How do I find a reputable contractor, and/or micromanage so it is done correctly.
Thank you.
Pat, look for a contractor who specializes in wood and deck restoration. You can search this on the internet for your area. If you are near Germantown, MD, try a company called See Dirt Run.
I have a brand new red cedar fence in Southern California and am looking a lasting semi-transparent stain.
Defy Extreme or Armstrong Clark.
my cedar stained steps show bare wood from previous winter. what is the best thing to do when re- staining to protect the wood and have an even stain when using semi transparent stain?
Prep with the Restore A Deck Stripper kit so the wood is free of the old coating.
I have a existing cedar fence, that I have been pressure washing to get rid of the gray look. What stain would I use on my fence? I’ve been looking at a product called Ready Seal, do you know anything about this product?
Ready Seal is an okay stain. We do not like it as it fades quickly and does not fully cure. Look at TWP or Defy Extreme.