This post was updated on April 4, 2025
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in new deck staining and prep. My tips for staining a new deck are based on my extensive hands-on experience as a wood and deck restoration contractor. I’ve tested and worked with a wide range of products, so I can guide you toward the top choices that will ensure the best results for your deck.See here for more info about me.
Staining a New Deck in 2026
DeckStainHelp.com has earned its reputation as the go-to website for all things related to exterior wood surface restoration. One important tip I always recommend is waiting at least 3 months before staining new wood surfaces. This allows the wood to naturally weather and create a porous surface that holds the stain more effectively. Keep in mind that the waiting period can vary depending on the stain brand and the type of wood, so always check the manufacturer’s guidelines for the best results. Our top new wood deck stains are the Armstrong Clark and the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains.
I encourage customer interaction on our site, so feel free to participate in our open discussion in the comment area.
See our Deck Stain Facts section, which contains over 150 simple Q&A articles that answer all your questions about deck staining.
My Pro Tips for How to Stain New Decks
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- How Long Should We Wait to Stain New Wood?
- Staining New Smooth Decking
- How to Prep and Stain New Decking
- Review the Best Stains for New Decks
- Watch My Video on How To Stain New Decks
- Ask me for Help on Staining New Wood
1. How Long Should You Wait to Stain a New Deck?
Over the past 12+ years, we have had numerous questions on the site, but none was asked more than “What stain or prep is needed for my new deck”? Homeowners believe it is okay to stain new wood immediately or before installing the deck. This is incorrect for most wood types and stain brands.
In this article, I will cover the required prep and the waiting period before applying a stain for the first time.
Staining New Decks
2. Staining New Smooth Decking
New smooth decking boards are not porous enough for most stains to penetrate properly. This is mainly due to:
- Mill glaze when cut
- High moisture content
- Chemicals in Pressure-Treated Wood
Most wood stains have difficulty penetrating the wood cells when applied to new wood. This results in an uneven application and premature stain failure by quickly fading or peeling. Remember, the deeper the stain soaks into the wood, the longer the life of the stain.
3. How To Prep and Stain New Smooth Wood:
- Install wood and let weather for 1-12 months. This varies depending on the stain brand. Read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.
- After waiting, you should use a wood cleaner and a wood brightener. This will remove the dirt, UV graying, and mill glaze.
- Let the wood dry for a few days after the cleaning.
- Apply only one Coat of the stain! Even after the waiting period, new wood is still not very absorbent. Overapplying the stain will not give long-lasting results. You want to achieve one even coat that soaks into the wood.
- Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat in 12-18 months.
Once you get through the first couple of years, your deck stain will perform much better as the wood will allow more stain and deeper penetration into the wood.
My Pro TIP: Do not sand new wood. This will smooth the wood, reducing the stain’s ability to penetrate the wood.
Rough Sawn Wood
New Rough or Rough Sawn Wood?
Rough-sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces but rather vertical surfaces such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood is very absorbent and does not have a mill glaze. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained right away.
4. Review Best Deck Stains for New Wood
Stain Brands Best for New Wood?
In our opinion, certain brands of stains will work better on new wood. Over the years, we have tried numerous stains on new wood, and we have found that stains that contain paraffin (non-drying oil) will penetrate into newer wood better, provide better coverage, and can be applied sooner.
My Pro TIP: If you do not want to wait 4-12 months for the wood to weather, we suggest one of these brands for new wood.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain – Waiting period of 2-3 months
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain – Waiting period of 3 months
Timber Oil Brand – Waiting period of about 1-2 months
If choosing one of these brands, you must still prep the wood to remove mill glaze by cleaning and brightening it.
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $58.99 *Free Shipping |
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5. Watch My Video on New Wood Deck Staining
6. Questions on New Deck Staining
Are you still unsure of how to stain a new deck? Please ask below if you still have questions about when to stain a new deck and how to do it. I am glad to assist you.
Thanks for all the information here! I have OLD redwood 2×6 decking boards that have been sitting on my side yard for nearly 10 years. I ran them through the jointer and planer today to clean them up and they look like new. Once I am done building and sanding, should this wood be considered old or new? Do I still have to let it go through a weathering process prior to staining. In other words, what process and products do you recommend with respect to staining this old wood?
Yes, treat like new wood. Weather and then prep prior to the staining. Prep with RAD Cleaner and Brightener and stain with Armstrong Clark or Restore A Deck Stains.
Hi guys,
Lee here again, hopefully for the last time this season. Moving over from the Stripping vs. Cleaning page as my next question concerns TWP stain. First, I must say that you were right, the brightener is my friend. It really took care of the dark blotchy areas on the cedar left by the chemical reaction of the stripper. Thank you!
So a quick recap. Two years ago I finished a new cedar deck in August without enough time to season and stain it before the raining season of the NW set in. Therefore I waited until May 2020, applying one coat of TWP 101 Cedartone. Unfortunately that stain failed over last winter on the main deck (chipping) but not on the connected porch. My theory was that the wood of the deck was still a little wet down in the pores from the prep process.
So I have now stripped, sanded fuzzies and residual stain with 80 grit, cleaned and brightened both the deck and the porch for consistency per your recommendations. Since the wood is now bare, should I be putting on one coat again with a maintenance coat next year or since the deck is almost two years old, should I be putting on two coats, wet on wet if the first one soaks in? (If the later, I should order more stain now before I begin.) Another option might be one coat now and another in early fall but this would force another round of cleaning and brightening – augh.
Thanks again for all the help. Far too much time into this one, hence I’m ready to get it right and move into a yearly maintenance coat.
V/r,
Lee
One coat now and another in 12-24 months after a light wash to remove dirt.
In some of your other discussions, I’ve seen you’ve mentioned waiting after sanding – somewhat similar to new wood. I would rather proceed with the TWP 101 stain again if possible (once the weather cooperates) as we are hoping to move back on to the deck as soon as possible. On the other hand, I don’t want a premature failure like last winter as I want to get this deck into a yearly clean, brighten and stain maintenance cycle. Please advise and thank you,
Does water soak in right away or bead on the wood for a time?
Soaks in. Sounds like it is good to stain?
It doesn’t look like I have a weather window for at least another week for an oil stain. Per your directions, now that I have sanded with 80 grit to remove fuzzies and some residual stain, I was going to clean and brighten with the RAD prep kit then let dry for 5 days before staining. To avoid more fuzzies, I was not going to power wash this time, just rinse both solutions with a strong nozzle on a garden hose. Neither the RAD cleaner or the brightener should make more fuzzies with a garden hose rinse, correct? Otherwise, I’m just undoing the sanding effort and going in circles.
It should be. Just the one coat. Pressure washing and prep products do not create fuzzies, oxidation/graying removal does. Best to just apply and lightly pressure wash off since you not have any oxidation on the wood.
Thanks! May I ask you one more question? We are thinking of switching from TWP to RAD stain now that the deck is stripped and sanded, only because the late spring weather in the NW can be tough to get a dry deck both before and after staining for a number of days. However, as an oil base we are thinking TWP probably looks nicer and holds up better so it is a tough choice. Is this your experience?
No, they last about the same.
We are ready to stain our pressure treated pine deck that was completed in late September. From what I read the Restore a Deck is the best option for us if we are trying to complete this quickly. Do we need to order all steps since the deck is relatively new and clean? Also, we live in AL so we are in hot and humid summer already. It is supposed to be in the 80’s with 40% humidity coming up. Will we still be ok?
Yes, you have to prep and then stain. You cannot skip the prep. Temps are fine.
Hello, in the process of staining new deck that is almost 1 year old, pressure treated wood, first time stain that has lots of sun exposure. The first coat of Behr premium semi transparent waterproofing stain sealer was applied about 4 days ago and the deck is sticky and looks blotchy. Lots of discoloration. Not sure should what to do to correct. And have watched so many DIY videos and read reviews and very frustrated and don’t want to make this worse. Please help! Thanks for your time.
Only way to fix is to remove it and go with a better brand. Strip off what you can and then sand the rest off.
Thanks for your response, I read In some
Of your other responses that sanding wasn’t good for new wood and very concerned. Also, what brand do you recommend for deck with high sun exposure. Thanks
You do not have a choice to sand as it will probably not strip off fully. Make sure to brighten as well after it is fully removed. Try TWP or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Ok Thanks
About two weeks ago the contractor finished our deck…it is 100% built with pressure treated lumber… If I am understanding correctly we are not to aabd or treat the deck wood with anything perhaps till next spring…we live in Central Illinois…the lumber was purchased from a big box store and there are some ‘stamped’ numbers and letters I’d like to remove before we apply a stain to the wood as well as some work boot tread prints on the lumber ….do you think those will come off when we do our cleaning next spring, or can we sand those off before staining?? Also, please let me know what is the best cleaner to use and allow to dry for a month or di and what is the stain that you’d recommend for this type of wood?
Sand those stamps off now. Wait until Fall to prep and stain. Use Restore A Deck Products.
I have a new deck (finished a month ago) with Spiced Rum Trex Composite floor, Trex Vintage Lantern posts and caps and custom Doug Fir railings with hogwire. (see pic) I’d like to stain or darken the rails to match the posts. Can I stain them right away? I was told I could. I know that certain wood needs to time to weather before staining but I can’t find any information about Doug fir needing to weather. My builder said to use CWF penetrating oil and it will darken up. Not sure that is going to happen with that product.
I’m thinking my process will be to use Restore-a-deck cleaner and brighter, then use either Ready Seal stain or Cabot. Any advise? Thanks!
No, need to wait and prep for 3-4 months after install. CWF is no good and we would not suggest Ready Seal (has issues with drying and premature fading) and Cabot (they ruined this great stain when they sold the company).
Lots of complaints with both brands on this site.
Hello,
I am getting ready to redo my existing old weathered deck. I live in Nevada where the weather can have hot and cold extremes. The deck is in full sun. The deck was previously stained yet it is 99% gone now. The wood is very dry, gray, and rough in some areas (splinters!), yet the cedar boards are still solid. I have been doing a tone of research and I am still conflicted about how to go about the steps for prepping. I read some places that say do not sand the deck, just use a cleaner and brighter. I’m afraid if I do this the deck will remain rough. Others say sand the deck, use cleaner and brighter, do touch up sanding if furring occurs and then finish. Which is better?? I plan on using an oil based sealer instead of staining if that changes any of the prep steps. Please, anyone have any input?? I’ll try to upload a photo of the current condition of the wood. Thank you in advanced!!!
Prep with a deck cleaner like Restore A Deck. Let dry and lightly sand any splinter or rough spots. Brightener all when done. Stain with Armstrong Clark or TWP 100 stains.
Thank you very much for that response! I forgot to ask earlier about my deck railing. I will be replacing my railing with new wood. What’s the best preparation process in your opinion? Can I do it at the same time I do the deck floor?
No, needs to weather as the above article explains.
Installed a pressure treated pool deck last July. Looking for right stain to protect from pool water and sun. Would like to sand some area where screws left splinters. Please tell me what stain and can I sand area lightly. NWohio
Use Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
I just had an IPE deck installed with a mahogany top rail. I purchased Cabot Australian Timber Oil (Natural) to oil the top rail where guests frequently put their drinks. Is this a good product for use on the Mahogany top rail? Is it ok to leave the Ipe deck just weather and turn gray or should it be treated too? If treated, how long should I wait? Thanks for your help.
Jim Speros
Cabot does not work well. The IPE should be stained as well. Look at these brands:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Our cedar deck was installed almost 4 years ago and we are staining it for the first time. Should we power wash to remove the oxidation, use a cleaner, or both?
Use a deck cleaner while pressure washing and then a brightener.
We let our new cedar deck go almost 4 years and are just now going to stain it for the first time. It has some rough splintery areas. Should we sand the whole deck before staining? Or should we just sand the spots that are splintery?
We are building a deck out of Western Red Cedar. There are several WRC lumber-industry sites which state to “ignore finish manufacturer’s recommendations to wait prior to applying their products” and stain immediately, within 2 weeks. That is incredibly confusing as a novice consumer. I see in the article above that the waiting period does vary based on the wood (and stain). Is Western red cedar somehow different? Thanks in advance for any light you can shed. Just trying to understand what is behind these seemingly contradictory recommendations.
No difference for WC. You have to wait and prep. The lumber industry is clueless to how deck stains work. Follow the advice of the stain brand you choose as they know their stains best.
I have a one year old pine deck. I rented a 1400 psi pressure washer to clean before applying restore a deck cleaner/brightener. I used a too narrow of nozzle early on and realized I made some stains from the pressure washer on the wood. Will the cleaner remove that or do i need to sand it off? Not sure how to get rid of the marks. Will be using armstrong clark semi transparent stain fyi.
Thanks
That is wood damage from the tip. You should sand this off.
I just had a new cedar deck built two days ago. Can it be sealed and stained right away, or should it wait for a period of time before sealing and staining?
No you cannot do it right away. Did you read the article above? It explains this.
Thanks for your response. The reason I asked is because the person who put the deck in for me told me I should stain it right away, which made me unsure. So I appreciate the information provided in the article. Very helpful.
A few weeks ago, a new redwood upper deck was installed to replace an old 21′ 7″ x 5′ 6″ composite deck that had begun to disintegrate and the railings collapsing. Being a Senior woman alone, I was not prepared for this sudden $6,000 expense since I had already ordered new kitchen appliances. The contractor arranging the appliance installation convinced me that redwood is about half the price of composite but failed to mention the yearly upkeep. The person that he arranged to install the deck mis-measured and the deck is a patch-work. Besides that, he stained the boards right after the wood delivery in my yard with Sherwin Williams Super Deck transparent Heart Redwood after I told the contractor I wanted it just sealed to keep the natural color. He then built the deck and the boards are blotchy, have drips showing and is a barn red color that I hate! Plus the facia boards are not well-matched with one being very brown and the adjacent board being red. I called Sherwin Williams to ask if it contains a sealer and how to remove it. He said a sealer would be a separate product and this is only a stain and very hard to remove. He suggested I try sanding it. The contractor lent me his palm sander and high ladder and I’ve tried sanding what I could. What should I do? This redwood was stained new before installation. Is it now ruined? Oh, plus after installation began, he told me that some of the support boards underneath were rotted and I had to pay over $300 more to replace them But he just put them up next to the rotted boards! How would an upper deck be cleaned then brightened, etc.? I don’t have a water spigot upstairs to attach for washing and would have to hire someone again to do this! How long should I wait? It’s so distressing to think I have to go through this every year now! The original composite deck was a taupe color, as is the deck at ground level. This deck will also need replacing soon and I dread the thought of more upkeep there, too. I live in the San Francisco Bay area where the sun is intense all afternoon. Please advise. Thank you.
You should hire a professional deck restoration expert to remove this from your deck and start over.
Yikes! Thank you for your quick reply. Should this be done right away, or should I wait a few months? Which products should I tell him to use?
Can you post some pictures?
Sorry…I’m not tech saavy and lucky I can email! Just tell me if it needs to be stripped then power-washed, then a deck cleaner applied, then brightener applied? Then wait 3 months before re-staining? Is that about right? What brand of products would you recommend? Restore A Deck? Do they make a redwood color that isn’t too barn red? Semi-transparent?
Thanks so much!
Without seeing what they did to the wood, we cannot give you the right answer as to how to get it off the wood. Stripping does not always work.
It does have to come off by stripping and or sanding. Wait 3 months to clean and brighten the wood and then stain. Try the Restore A Deck Stain. Look at light walnut color. It is a reddish brown color.
Thank you so much for your advice; I really appreciate it!
Hi
We just installed a new dock on the lake using pressure treated marine grade pine in N Carolina. Trying to research the best stain/sealer to use. I have found several brands that claim to be the best but have not found a good solid review for stain used on docks. Your site says not to sand but I have read that I should sand first after waiting at least 3 mos for the wood to weather. Help please!
You will need to weather the wood and then prep. Try Restore A Deck Stain or TWP Stains. Might want to even go to the TWP Semi-Solid Stain for better UV protection when in full sun.
Hi
Have just had a wooden gazebo built and we have covered the decking with a roof
We are not sure whether to oil or stain the decking.
It won’t get a lot of people traffic.
Before winter sets in (London, UK) we are thinking of covering up the sides and front to stop rain from getting in.
Please could you advise what to do as it is all very new to us
There is nothing I can find on websites to advise about covered decking, thank you
Stain the deck. Covering does not matter, it still needs a stain.
Hi can yu plz suggest what should I do with this decking. I would really appreciate if you can plz briefly explain the procedure and what paint needs to be used on it. Thank you so much
That is IPE wood. Strip and brighten the wood for prep and then stain with one of these brands for IPE: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/ipe-exotic-hardwood-stain-review/
Here you say: Rough or Rough Sawn Wood
Rough sawn wood is not used for horizontal decking surfaces, but rather verticals such as fencing, wood siding, etc. This side of the wood does not have a mill glaze and is very absorbent. As long as the wood has a low moisture content, it can be stained right away.
I am assuming you still clean the wood first, even if it is rough or rough sawn, correct?
No need to clean it if rough sawn as long as it not dirty, grayed, and is free of mildew.
The structure I am referring to is a cedar pergola. It was built 1 year ago. I didn’t notice mildew but I thought it would be better to be safe and clean it with sodium percarbonate (oxygenated bleach) and then neutralize it with a brightener that has oxalic acid. I always use Armstrong-Clark stains. What do you think about this?
Clean and brighten and then stain is correct.
Awesome site!! I have a new retaining wall built with 4×4 pressure treated pine from Lowe’s and I want to stain. Would you consider this rough or rough sawn where it can be stained right away, or would you consider this smooth wood where it needs to weather?
Show a picture here in comments.
Hello! I hope you can assist me with this question: An old tongue and groove porch floor in CT is being replaced with a new one sloped 1/4″/ft in the other direction perpendicular to the house (which I think is best) over new treated sleepers parallel to the house. The flooring is to be top quality 3/4′ x 3-1/8″ finish clear vertical grain (CVG) Douglas Fir no knots (like the old traditional porch floors). The owners want a dark stain look (what was used on the old deck was Ben Moore Arborcoat “Mahogany” solid stain. I think it should get a sealer on all faces – including the T and G sides – BEFORE installation. Then after install another coat. Could you confirm this is the best approach? What product type and how many coats and OK to seal the new wood? thx!
No, you should not pre-stain and seal all sides. This leads to dry rot. Follow the directions above. Install, weather, prep, and then stain just the exposed wood.
Hello again – I neglected to add that this is a traditional tongue and groove covered porch floor we are replacing – ie. no flow through gaps as in deck boards. Does that change the no pre-treat recommendation when staining? When planning a paint finish many other websites direct you to prime all sides before install (no wait time) and then finish paint the exposed top. I had assumed the same basic approach when staining. Thanks for your help here…
No changes, you cannot pre-stain new wood. You can also never prime a deck before using a sealer or deck stain. Paints are totally different.
Put up a new deck last summer. It is very exposed: sun, rain, snow. I now need to stain it. Problem is Philadelphia weather is pretty unpredictable this time of year going into summer. For this reason, I was looking at the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain (water based)…link to product below. I was thinking this one because the application seems more weather flexible. I only have weekends to do this stain project, and I can’t have the weather being a major factor. Oil based paints need to go on completely dry surfaces, correct? Like it can’t rain 48 hours before or after application? I read that this stain can be technically applied on damp wood, is same day prep ready, and is rain ready in 4 hours. Thoughts? Thank you.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-5-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
We use it all the time and apply it to damp wood as well. Works great. See this video:
https://youtu.be/PWJ2_C5qmYY
Built a new deck 12 months ago and live in South Carolina where it is hot and humid. Deck does get lots of sun. I want to use a semi-transparent stain. After cleaning and prepping the wood, what brand stain would be the best for my deck? Thank you for the help.
Restore A Deck Stains or TWP 100 Series.
I’m in the same situation. New deck was put up last summer. It gets a lot of sun. I now need to stain it. I was looking at the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain (water based). I was thinking this one because the application seems more weather flexible. Thoughts?
I only have weekends to do this stain project, and I can’t have the weather being a major factor. Oil based paints need to go on completely dry surfaces, correct? Like it can’t rain 48 hours before or after application?
Yes, that is correct with the oil based stains.
How should the stain be applied
Which stain?
I finish building my Southern yellow Pine pressure treated deck about nine months ago. I’m ready to use behr semi transparent stain. The deck has grayed like it was supposed to. Someone suggested I use the behr all in one wood cleaner for decking and then pressure wash it then apply the stain after waiting 2 to 3 days. Is that the correct order that I should do it? Do I apply one coat or two of the semi transparent? Thank you in advance for your guidance. Your videos are great
We highly suggest you return the Behr, it is a very poor stain and creates many issues. See like below and read customer reviews at the bottom. For prep, use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener. How many coats depends on the stain you end up using.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/
Built a new cedar deck last year and ready to stain. I am in Canada with full hot sun from midday till night and an over all dry climate. I have been recommended a 2 coat stain called Sansin Dec. I haven’t seen any reviews for this product on your site, is it a good choice or is there something better.
Mixed reviews from customers using Sansin on this site. Many have had peeling issues. Better brands would be TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark.
New deck pressure treated. Built 12 months ago. State Maine. Complete sun at all times. Winter snow and ice. What is best stain to use. And what would be the upkeep. Thanks
Try Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series for this. Clean and brighten for prep. Redo every 2-3 years or as needed.
You’re so helpful! Another Mainer with cedar pool deck installed late June 2020. I just bought restore-a-deck kit. Then what is recommended to keep natural wood appearance but protect from sun and pool water? TIA!
Armstrong Clark or TWP 1500 Series would work well. The stain must be tinted to provide UV protection from graying.
Thank you so much. Trying samples now! Harder time finding TWP— would RAD semi transparent work well? Or stick with AC?
RAD would work as well.
Thank you!! I’m back! Great results from RAD cleaner and brightener. I got stain samples from Armstrong Clark and RAD and used them on an extra board. The AC took hours to soak in. The RAD soaked in immediately. Does that matter? Is soaking in quickly good or bad?
Thank you so much! You’ve been so helpful. Photo is original, after cleaning, after brightening.
Soaking in is good. Prep looks good so far.
Great. Then RAD it is! I like their color choices better too. This is dried this AM, lightened quite a bit. Maybe rinse once more and dry 48hrs before staining? Ready to order stain now. And get going next weekend. You’ve been so helpful. Thank you. Thank you.
No need to rinse again.
Thank you!!!!
Note: The dark spots in the corners are from rain yesterday
I oiled my brand new ipe deck (left without oil/stain for 2 months) but 6 hours later it rained quite hard. Not sure if it was because of this but there’s a light whitish haze on it which won’t come off with a simple detergent wash. Not sure what to do. Will a more dedicated cleaner help? Do I need to re apply oil? Thanks in advance.
Post a picture of deck and what product did you use?
The oil that came with the deck from the seller. Not much info on the tin apart from ‘teak oil’
Note: The dark spots at the corner is from rain yesterday
It just looks washed out. Try another coat to a board and see how it dries.
Thanks for the advice. Shall I use a deck restorer/brightener such as Owatrol NET-TROL before I add the oil?
No, never use an additive into the oil.
As you’ve advised to re-oil it due to wash off, shall I use a bleach/water solution to clean it first? Or perhaps a deck detergent? Thanks
Just wash with water and then let dry.
Thank you!
I’m going get a new cedar deck installed I this month around the pool and a the patio. If I power wash the new deck, Can I stain the deck right a way, instead of waiting 1-3months. Please help
No, you need to weatehr and prep. Cannot skip this.
I just had a home built. The deck and screening was installed around 12/26/20. I just closed on the home 3/4/21. The floor of the deck is protected on 3 sides by the walls of the home and the only side that is open, has been screened in. My question is how long do I wait to stain it and how do I get the stamp off several of the boards that show? I live in Anderson, SC so it’s been warm and the deck faces east. I just moved in and have 5 large pieces of patio furniture that I would like to put out on the deck along with a rug, but I’m unsure when to stain it, I’d love to use my screened deck and I need my garage space!! Thank you for any help you can give me!
See this about the ink stamps. You will need to sand them off, weather the wood for a couple of months, then clean and brighten all wood for the prep. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-the-ink-stamps-from-new-decking/
Since you’re suggesting weathering the wood after I sand the ink stamps off, can I go ahead and use my screened in deck for a few months – including using an outdoor rug under my furniture? The dirt here is very red and I’m concerned about it discoloring my untreated deck.
Yes.
Installed deck summer of 2020. Ready to stain. I understand the need for wood cleaner, wood brightener, then stain. Do we also then apply a sealer as a moisture protection?
Thank you so much for your information!
You do not seal before or after staining. Just using a deck stain is all that is needed.
Hi! We are getting ready to stain our deck for the first time (installed last summer) but there are some faded sun spots where we had some pots. Will this impact the coloring of the stain? Should I paint instead? Or is there a treatment I can put on first to minimize the color difference? Thanks!
Using the Deck Cleaner and Wood Brightener will help to even this out.
I had a new deck installed last spring. Will I need to remove each board in order to stain the back if I’m not able to get under the deck?
There is no need to stain the undersides.
How long time after using cleaner should I wait and use brightener for new deck?
After brightener how long should I wait to begin stain?
You brighten right after cleaning. As for staining, that varies based on the stain brand you are using.
I ordered Armstrong Clark Stain 1 semi transparent.Should I wait 24hr after using brighten?
48 Hours.
How long after you put a clear coat of stain on a new deck should a second coat be put on
Clear coat? Just making sure you realize you should never clear coat a new deck after install and that a clear coat has zero UV protection? If you did so, you will need to remove, weather correctly, prep, and stain with a proper semi-transparent stain.
When sanding my new deck getting it ready for stain, what kind of sander should I use a belt sander, orbital sander, or hand vibrating sander. And what grit sand paper?
You do not sand for prep of a new a deck but clean and brighten. Sanding can create issues with penetration: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-sanding-a-deck-can-be-an-issue/
Hello, we live in Edmonton Alberta Canada and built a new pressure treated pine (brown) deck in May 2020, deck gets full sun all day with harsh winters, looking for advice on semi-transparent stain that will stand up to the full sun and harsh winters and that is available in Canada or that can be ordered into Canada, great site by the way. thanks
TWP 200 Series or Armstrong Clark Stains. Make sure to clean and brighten the wood for the prep.
I may prefer the RAD or Defy colours over the AC colours, would the water based RAD or Defy be inferior to the oil based AC or TWP?
No, they would both work very well.
Also the deck is basically on the ground with little air flow, any potential issues with stain failing from moisture below?
What experience do you have with the TWP WS series stain?
We tested it once and it was okay. Not much besides that.
We built a deck on the second story of our house in Northern Alabama last March. The deck was built with pressure treated pine. I plan to stain both the top and bottom sides since the deck covers a concrete porch and is very visible. Will I need to clean and brighten both sides of the deck or just the top (weathered) side?
Clean and brighten all to remove the mill glaze.
Can plants with a sprinkler system be put on a new redwood deck, and then moved after the waiting period….. when it can be properly stained???
Yes, but you will probably get water stains from the pots. You will get this now or after staining, so make sure you have the post/plants on the deck in places you want to keep them.
Help please! Just bought a cabin in Tennessee, the wood siding on the exposed wall needs work, the sheltered side looks good. I have no idea what was used. Suggestions please!
You will need to remove all to fix, but it does not look like it can be stripped. You will most likely have to media blast to get it all off. When removed fully, use a penetrating stain that can be cleaned and reapplied easily down the road:
We cleaned, brightened, then stained a 1 year old pressure treated pine deck last year. What do you recommend doing this year and beyond for maintenance? Do we just apply another coat of stain or does it also need to be prepped?
Clean first and re-coat as needed only. Could be this Summer or next depending on how it faired in the past 12 months.
We live on the coast in California and just had our decks redone. We used Timbertech for the flooring but redwood everywhere else. We don’t want to paint the redwood we’d like to just preserve the redwood color. Being our environment is on the damp side which product would you recommend? How long should we wait to stain? Some parts of the wood have already turned black in some spots. Guess the wood cleaner/ brightener mentioned in your article takes care of that? Thank you!
As article above explains, wait the 3+ months for the new wood to season and then prep. Use Restore A Deck Stains or Armstrong Clark Stains.
Thanks for the article. We just had deck flooring installed under a covered porch in the Chicago. It’s tongue and groove fir. The contractor didn’t pitch the floor much and I want to avoid moisture problems. Any of the three recommended stains better for tongue and groove to prevent moisture problems? I was hoping for a clear/natural finish. I will wait until spring the clean/brighten/stain. Thanks
Clear will gray in months. Must be tinted for UV protection. Try the TWP 1500 or Restore A Deck Stains after prep in the Spring.
Hello. Appreciate all the information on your site, it’s been extremely helpful.
I have some confirmation items and a few questions on a new (Redwood) gate I had installed. Dimension are approximately 17’x6’. The installing company office said to wait 30 days before staining, but the crew on-site said he’d stain it right away (confusing and conflicting info). So, I looked at the wood and believe it is ‘rough’ sawn wood, but attaching photos to confirm.
My questions:
1. If rough, I didn’t need to wait for weathering (even if manufacturer suggests waiting xyz time), correct?
2. I live in Northern California (just outside of Sacramento), and it’s been raining since the installation about 2 weeks ago. So, if it is rough wood, I need a window to still clean/prep the wood, and wait about 4 days to dry, and then stain, correct?
3. I was planning on applying with a brush since it’s not too large of a project and to cut down waste. It seems that on your site, brush application with roller is ideal. So I should be fine there, correct? Versus applying with sprayer and following up with roller.
4. I was looking at the Armstrong Clark semi solid Sierra Redwood to keep it as natural looking as possible (but still get some UV protection). Do you feel that’s a good choice?
5. How many gallons would be needed with brush application? Dimension are approximately 17’x6’.
6. Since so new (only installed about 2 weeks ago), would just water and scrub brush be enough? If not, is using just the restore-a-deck cleaner enough? Or, the brightener is recommended as well?
Thank you in advance for taking the time to go through all this!
1. Crossboards are smooth, the rest is rough. You should wait and prep.
2. Wait 3+ months, prep, stain 2 days later.
3. Brush or stain pad. Do not roll.
4. AC works very well. Their Redwood Tone is lighter though and more Natural than Sierra Redwood.
5. 2 Gallons should work.
6. You need a full prep after the wait.
Thank you so much for the very quick response, and answers. Really appreciate it. And concerning the AC stain color- I actually was looking for something more natural, but a slightly darker as well. So, from their website color pallet and your description, it sounds like Sierra Redwood should hopefully be perfect (and, I like that is is slightly darker for the little more UV protection).
Thank you again!
Hello. Great site. I’m in the process of replacing a number of cedar deck boards. For the horizontal rail caps, (1×6) it looks like the original deck had the rough sawn side exposed on top and smooth side attached to the top rail. Given the above reference shouldn’t the smooth side be on top? Or can it be a matter of preference? Appreciate your thoughts before I begin this portion of the project. Also I’m planning on leaving the balisters and many of the rails in place as they are in good shape…so it will be a combination of new cedar and existing previously stained wood. My thought is to use the Restore A Deck system on everything if possible. What do you think? Thank you
Typically all wood for decking is smooth. Rough sawn would only be used for vertical wood such as framing posts, wood fences, or overhead beams. The Restore A Deck products should work well.
Struggling hard to come up with a stain/sealing solution for my new deck and covered porch. Attached is an inside picture. The floor is cypress with cypress hand rails, the beams and all other construction is cedar. As you can see the floor will have almost no exposure to the elements (maybe some rain spray).
What I want to do is stain the cypress flooring with something like MinWax wood stain which is oil based followed by a clear protective coat.
Second question regards when to do this. I’ve read on your site that one should wait several months before staining / protecting. Would this apply even if most of the exterior is rough cut cedar?
Any thoughts or recommendations?
Regards,
C. Gilley
You can not use Minwax for outside wood/deck as it will not work and it will have no UV protection. Also, you can never topcoat over a stain outside as that will lead to severe peeling.
You have to use a deck stain. https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews-2020/
Your wood in the pictures look smooth, not rough sawn. You will need to weather and prep.
Well the flooring is definitely smooth, the beams rough. Thank you for helping me avoid a disaster. I’ll be back in a few months when the weather starts warming up in Atlanta.
I am so glad I found this site! I was fretting about not yet staining my 6 week old deck until I learned the wood needs time to cure. Thank you!
I have two questions for you.
1. I read here that you do not recommend sanding a new deck, but we have some rough spots and edges and I’m worried about splinters. Is it safe to sand now and then apply the stain in the spring after the wood cures properly?
2. We had a flat deck built next to the house and a raised deck built around our above ground pool. Both receive full sun all day. We are in Texas. Will the two decks require different types of stain or care since the surface of the raised deck by the pool will get wet more often?
1. Yes, you can do this.
2. The chlorine from the pool will break down the stain faster. Nothing you can do to prevent this. Does not matter what type of stain you use.
Hello and thank you for this very informative site. I have a 550sf new deck with 2×6 treated pine flooring that was installed in August 2020 and located in Western North Carolina. The flooring still is holding water in many spots for up to a day after rain. Do you recommend that I wait a few more months (maybe spring) to apply a semi-transparent oil based stain?
Again thanks! The folks at the local big box store had just about talked me in to purchasing a certain brand stain right away.
Charlie
Yes, wait until Spring to prep and stain.
Since you do not recommend BM Arbor Coat – What exterior stain brand would you recommend for fir wood?
One of these brands: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/