Types of Deck Stains in 2026: Explained 4.8/5 (808)

This post was updated on April 7, 2026

Hi, I’m Scott Paul, a seasoned exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of expertise in exterior wood care. This article is one of my favorites because it breaks down all the different deck stains available, giving you the insights you need to make an informed choice. If you’re researching wood and decking stains, this is a must-read. Learn more about me here.

What Type of Stain Should You Use on Your Deck?

Choosing the right deck stain comes down to selecting a high-quality product that suits your deck’s condition and meets your specific needs. One of the most important factors to consider is the stain’s transparency or opacity, which ranges from clear, transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, to solid finishes.

✅ What Are the Different Types of Deck Stains? (Quick Answer)

Deck stains are categorized by how much pigment they contain and how they interact with the wood. The four main types are:

      • Clear Sealers – No pigment = no UV protection from graying
      • Transparent stains – Minimal color, show full wood grain, lowest protection
      • Semi-transparent stains – Add light color while allowing grain to show, best balance of protection and appearance
      • Semi-solid stains – More pigment, better UV protection, partially hide wood grain
      • Solid color stains – Fully opaque, maximum coverage but highest maintenance
      • Oil-Based stains – Deeper penetration than water-based stains
      • Water-based stains – Eco-Friendly and water cleanup
      • Penetrating stains – Easier to maintain and prep
      • Filming stains – Prone to peeling

Oil-based stains typically outperform water-based options in terms of penetration and durability, though they often come at a higher cost and with fewer color options. However, water-based stains may be more eco-friendly and easier to clean up.

When selecting a stain, consider your local climate. If your deck is exposed to a lot of direct sunlight, opt for a product with strong UV protection. For damp or humid regions, choose a stain with mildew-resistant properties. Also, check your state’s environmental regulations to ensure the product complies with VOC restrictions.

By choosing the right stain for your deck, you’ll not only enhance its appearance but also ensure it stays protected for years to come.

✅ How to Choose the Right Deck Stain Type

Choosing the correct deck stain type depends on your specific situation:

  • New Wood:
    Transparent or semi-transparent stains allow the natural beauty of the wood to show.
  • Older Wood:
    Semi-solid or solid stains help hide imperfections.
  • High UV Exposure:
    Semi-solid or solid stains provide better sun protection.
  • Low Maintenance Preference:
    Semi-transparent penetrating stains are the easiest to maintain over time.

Understanding the Different Types of Deck Stains

Over the past 30+ years, I’ve worked with countless deck stain brands and types. Having tried them all, I’ve seen some excellent options—and others that didn’t hold up to their promises. While the landscape of deck stains has evolved due to changing manufacturers and stricter VOC laws, there are still top-quality options available in 2026. The key is knowing where to look.

Deck stains have come a long way since the early 1990s. Many manufacturers have shifted from oil-based to water-based formulas, but oil-based stains are still permitted for use across all U.S. states and Canada. With my team restoring 300-400 decks annually, my personal go-to options remain penetrating semi-transparent and semi-solid stains for their durability and natural finish.

In this guide, I’ll break down the various types of deck stains, compare their pros and cons, and help you make an informed decision on the best option for your deck.

See My List of the Top 8 Best Deck Stains


Deck Stain Type Comparison Chart

-See below for full in-depth differences and descriptions for each.

Stain Type Appearance Durability Ease of Application Maintenance Best For
Clear / Wood Toner Natural wood grain visible, slight tone ★☆☆☆☆ (1 year) ★★★★☆ Easy recoating Newer wood, cedar, or if you want a natural look
Semi-Transparent Enhances wood grain with color ★★★★☆ (2–3 years) ★★★★☆ Moderate – light cleaning Most deck types needing color & UV protection
Semi-Solid Less grain visibility, more pigment ★★★★☆ (2–4 years) ★★★☆☆ May require stripping, but varies based on brand Older decks or those needing more color
Solid (Opaque) Paint-like look, hides grain ★★★☆☆ (1–3 years) ★★☆☆☆ Difficult – sanding/stripping Very old wood or previously painted/stained decks

Notes:

  • UV protection improves as opacity increases.
  • Durability may vary depending on prep, wood condition, and climate.
  • Darker or richer colors provide better UV protection with semi-transparent and semi-solid colors.
  • Penetrating stains are easier to maintain as they have less chance of peeling and flaking.

Penetrating vs Film-Forming Deck Stains

  • Penetrating stains (transparent & semi-transparent):
    • Soak into wood
    • Do not peel
    • Easier maintenance
  • Film-forming stains (solid):
    • Sit on surface
    • Can peel over time
    • Require more prep

👉 This is a high-volume keyword gap most sites miss

Explaining the Types of Deck Stains Video 

Watch my video on all the different deck stains sold today. This is one of my more informative videos, and it will help you narrow down what is best for you and your deck.

YouTube player

Water-Based Wood Deck Stains

Water-Based Wood Deck Stains

Water-Based Wood Deck Stains

Water-based deck stains have risen rapidly in the last 8-10 years. The main reason for the vast number of water-based stains on the market today is related to changes in VOC laws across the country. Many states have adopted or will adopt lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations, which has prompted stain manufacturers to increase the production of water-soluble decking stains. Water-based deck stains are “thin” paints with varying amounts of acrylic and pigment. Most water-based deck stain brands have a high failure rate, but a few great options exist.

✅ Water-Based Deck Stains (Acrylic Coatings)

  • Appearance: Natural to slightly enhanced color (varies by opacity)
  • Wood Grain: Visible in transparent and semi-transparent versions
  • Protection Level: Good UV resistance and water repellency
  • Best For: Newer wood, maintenance coats, and areas with strict VOC regulations
  • Maintenance: Moderate—easier than solid stains but not as forgiving as oil-based

Water-based deck stains use acrylic resins to bond to the wood surface while still allowing some penetration. They are known for faster drying times, easier cleanup, and better color retention compared to traditional oil-based coatings.

They are available in transparent, semi-transparent, semi-solid, and solid colors, making them versatile for many applications.


👉 When to Use a Water-Based Deck Stain

  • You want faster drying times and easier application
  • You are working in an area with VOC restrictions
  • The deck is newer or in good condition
  • You want better UV color retention over time

⚠️ Downsides of Water-Based Stains

  • Do not always penetrate as deeply as oil-based stains. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.
  • Can be less forgiving during application (lap marks possible)
  • May require more prep for proper adhesion
  • Slightly harder to recoat than penetrating oil stains

🔍 Water-Based vs Oil-Based Deck Stains

  • Water-Based Stains:
    • Faster drying and easier cleanup
    • Better UV color retention
    • Lower VOC content
  • Oil-Based Stains:
    • Deeper penetration into wood
    • Easier long-term maintenance
    • More natural aging and wear

🧠 Expert Tip

Expert Tip: Water-based stains perform best on properly prepped wood. If the surface is not cleaned and brightened correctly, adhesion issues can occur.

My Pros: Water cleanup, less chance of mold or mildew growth. Environmentally friendly.

My Cons: They do not penetrate as well as an oil-based product can. They are slightly more complicated to apply as they dry quickly. They can be prone to peeling and wearing. *Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains and Defy Wood Stains are the only exceptions I have used successfully. They penetrate the best of all water-based stains, nearly as well as an oil.

Oil-based Wood Deck Stains

Oil Based DeckStain

Oil Based DeckStain

Oil-based decking stains have been around for 30-40 years and have traditionally been what all stain manufacturers produce. Oil-based stains are typically made up of natural and synthetic oils. Many contain oils, such as Linseed Oil, Paraffin Oil, Tung Oil, Rosewood Oil, Etc.

✅ Oil-Based Deck Coatings (Penetrating Oil Stains)

  • Appearance: Natural-looking finish that enhances wood grain
  • Wood Grain: Visible (varies by transparency level)
  • Protection Level: Excellent water resistance, moderate UV protection (with pigment)
  • Best For: Most exterior wood decks, especially older or weathered wood
  • Maintenance: Easy—can be cleaned and recoated without heavy stripping

Oil-based deck coatings are designed to penetrate deep into the wood fibers, helping to protect from moisture while enhancing the natural look of the wood. Unlike film-forming coatings, they do not sit on the surface, which means they are far less likely to peel or crack over time.

They are commonly available in transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid versions, depending on how much pigment is added.


👉 When to Use an Oil-Based Deck Coating

  • You want a natural wood appearance with enhanced grain
  • The deck is older or has been previously stained
  • You prefer easy maintenance and recoating
  • You want a coating that is less likely to peel

⚠️ Downsides of Oil-Based Coatings

  • Slower drying times compared to water-based products
  • Can attract mildew in humid or shaded areas
  • VOC restrictions in some states may limit availability
  • Requires proper application to avoid over-penetration or darkening

🔍 Oil-Based vs Water-Based Deck Coatings

  • Oil-Based Coatings:
    • Deeper penetration into wood
    • Easier to maintain and reapply
    • Rich, natural finish
  • Water-Based Coatings:
    • Faster drying
    • Better UV resistance retention
    • Lower VOC and easier cleanup

🧠 Expert Tip

Expert Tip: Oil-based penetrating stains are typically the easiest coatings to maintain long-term since they wear naturally instead of peeling like film-forming products.

My Pros: Excellent penetration into the wood. The better a deck stain can penetrate, the better its performance. It is also easier to apply and more natural-looking.

My Cons: Stronger odors, longer drying, and curing time. Some oils can promote the growth of mildew. Some oil-based stains will darken in color over time.

Deck Resurface Coatings

✅ Deck Resurfacing Coatings (Restoration Coatings)

  • Appearance: Thick, opaque coating that fills cracks and hides wood grain
  • Wood Grain: Not visible
  • Protection Level: High surface protection, seals and bridges damaged areas
  • Best For: Severely weathered, splintered, or structurally sound but worn decks
  • Maintenance: Moderate to high—can peel or wear unevenly over time

Deck resurfacing coatings are designed to restore old or damaged wood by creating a thick protective layer over the surface. Unlike traditional stains that penetrate into the wood, these coatings sit on top and are formulated to fill cracks, lock down splinters, and provide a uniform appearance.

They are often much thicker than solid stains and are sometimes marketed as “deck restore” or “deck resurfacer” products.


👉 When to Use a Deck Resurfacing Coating

  • The deck is heavily weathered, splintering, or rough
  • Previous coatings have failed and the surface is uneven
  • You want to extend the life of the deck without replacing boards
  • The wood is still structurally sound but cosmetically worn

⚠️ Downsides of Resurfacing Coatings

  • Can peel or crack over time, especially in high-traffic areas
  • Difficult to remove once applied
  • Requires extensive prep before application
  • Not suitable for newer or healthy wood

🔍 Resurfacing Coatings vs Solid Deck Stains

  • Resurfacing Coatings:
    Thicker, designed to fill cracks and restore damaged wood
  • Solid Stains:
    Thinner, provide color and protection but do not repair surface damage

🧠 Expert Tip

Expert Tip: Deck resurfacers can be a short-term solution for heavily worn decks, but they often require more maintenance and prep than penetrating stains. If the wood is still in decent shape, a penetrating stain is usually the better long-term option.

My Pros: Excellent UV protection, enhanced traction, and filling of voids and cracks. Restoring an older deck is an excellent idea if it works.

My Cons: So far, most of these product types have failed miserably. They peel after the first Winter and cannot be removed with a deck stain stripper. Sanding, scraping, or even the replacement of the wood is needed. There are many reviews on our site and other sites with angry consumers and product failures. Class action lawsuits are being filed against Rust-oleum Deck Restore and Olympic Rescue-It. Behr Deckover has the same issues as well. Only a couple of these products seem to work. Consider the Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive if you want one of these coatings. See this link for more info, articles, and reviews on these coatings: Deck Resurface Coatings.

Gulf Synthetics Deck Revive Photos

 

Solid Color Decking Stains (Opaque)

✅ Solid Color Deck Stains

  • Appearance: Opaque (paint-like finish)
  • Wood Grain: Hidden
  • Protection Level: Maximum UV protection
  • Best For: Very old or damaged wood
  • Maintenance: High—prone to peeling and requires more prep

Solid deck stains look like paints but are thinner for better adhesion and penetration into the wood. They cover or mask the wood, so you will no longer see the wood grain. Once you apply a solid decking stain, there is little chance you will ever be able to go back to a transparent stain. Solid stains come in water-based versions only nowadays.

My Pros: Excellent UV protection.

My Cons: Films on top of the wood do not penetrate well, are susceptible to peeling, look like paint, and are more challenging to apply. They cannot be effectively removed with a deck stain stripper.

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Solid Color Deck Stain Photos

Semi-Solid Wood Deck Stains

✅ Semi-Solid Deck Stains

  • Appearance: Rich color, less grain visibility
  • Wood Grain: Partially visible
  • Protection Level: Higher UV protection
  • Best For: Older decks with imperfections
  • Maintenance: Moderate—can build up over time

A Semi-Solid Deck Stain will only show a small amount of wood grain as it contains a high amount of pigment. Only a limited number of manufacturers offer semi-solids, which can be both water-based and oil-based.

My Pros: They provide excellent UV protection. However, if they are water-based, they are prone to peeling. Look for oil-based semi-solid stains only.

My Cons: Only a tiny amount of wood grain will show. Oil-based semi-solid versions will penetrate and perform much better than water-based versions.

Semi-Solid Deck Stain Photos

Semi-Transparent Wood Deck Stains

✅ Semi-Transparent Deck Stains

  • Appearance: Adds color while enhancing grain
  • Wood Grain: Clearly visible
  • Protection Level: Moderate UV and water protection
  • Best For: Most decks
  • Maintenance: Easy to clean and recoat every 2–3 years

These are my favorites, but the primary key is that it must be a penetrating semi-transparent stain. Semi-transparent deck stains contain pigments that highlight the natural grain while sealing the surface. Both water and oil-based are available.

My Pros: They offer average to better-than-average UV protection, show natural grain, and have very good penetration. In most scenarios, they can be cleaned and re-coated easily and removed with a deck stain stripper.

My Cons: Most water-based versions perform poorly compared to the oils. Many states with Low VOC laws have limited quality oil-based stains available. You may need to buy online if you live in a low VOC area.

Semi-Transparent Deck Stain Photos

Transparent Wood Deck Stains

✅ Transparent Deck Stains

  • Appearance: Clear or very light tint
  • Wood Grain: Fully visible
  • Protection Level: Low UV protection
  • Best For: New wood, premium hardwoods (ipe, mahogany)
  • Maintenance: Requires frequent reapplication (annually in many cases)

Transparent deck coatings look the most natural as they contain minimal pigment. The average life of a transparent decking stain is about one year. Mostly oil-based only are available.

My Pros: Straightforward to apply and reapply as needed. Natural-looking.

My Cons: Below average UV protection. Typically, it needs to be re-coated annually.

Transparent Deck Stain Colors

Clear Wood Deck Finishes

Clear Deck Sealer

Clear Deck Sealer

✅ Clear Wood Sealers (No Color Added)

  • Appearance: Completely clear with no pigment
  • Wood Grain: 100% visible (natural look)
  • Protection Level: Low UV protection, good water repellency
  • Best For: New wood, hardwoods (ipe, mahogany), and users wanting a natural, unstained look
  • Maintenance: Requires frequent reapplication (often every 6–12 months)

Clear wood sealers are designed to protect the wood from water penetration while maintaining its natural color. Unlike transparent deck stains, they contain no added pigments, which means they offer little to no UV protection from the sun.

Because of this, wood sealed with a clear sealer will typically gray faster when exposed to sunlight compared to even lightly pigmented stains.

👉 When to Use a Clear Wood Sealer

  • You want a completely natural, “no-color” appearance
  • You want the wood to gray
  • The deck is covered or has minimal direct UV exposure
  • You are okay with more frequent maintenance

⚠️ Downsides of Clear Sealers

  • No UV protection
  • Faster graying in full sun
  • More frequent maintenance than pigmented stains

My Pros: They do not change the appearance of the wood. They are extremely easy to apply.

My Cons: In months, the wood will gray and oxidize from the sun’s UV.

Low VOC Stains and States

Currently, 20 States and Canada restrict Decking Stains and Coatings. These states require fewer Volatile Organic Compounds to be released into the air. The lower VOC changes mainly affect oil-based coatings. By lowering the amount of “solvents” that can evaporate into the ozone, you need to increase the amount of “solids.” This can cause issues with oil-based stains, which may have drying and curing problems. A few good oil-based stains are still allowed in the Low VOC States but are not as readily available at your local stores. You may need to go online to find them and have them shipped. Examples would be the TWP 1500 Series and Armstrong Clark Wood Stains.

Current Low VOC States:

California, Colorado, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Hampshire, Vermont, Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Northern VA, Pennsylvania, Arizona, Ohio, Illinois, and Indiana.

LOW VOC States Deck Stains

Common Deck Stain Type Questions

What are Deck Stains, and Why Use Them?

Deck stains protect and preserve exterior wood. They offer UV protection, water repellency, mold and mildew resistance, and more. Deck coatings come in many types of opacity and bases. Based on their VOC laws, many deck stain brands can be restricted in certain states, cities, and countries, and unfortunately, walking into your local store may produce some of the worst options available.

Difference of Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains

Drying oils are “curing” oils. This means that they actually dry on top of or just below the surface. They will also help “seal” the wood. Non-drying oils are the opposite. They never dry or fully cure but dive deep into the wood to help condition the cells. Paraffin oil (not wax) is the most common.

Are Deck Finishes, Stains, Sealers, or Both?

This question can be confusing to homeowners. All deck stains are sealers that will help prevent water absorption. Deck sealers typically are not stains, as they do not have any pigment. Some, though, may have a very light tint.

What’s the Right Deck Stain for My Needs?

I always recommend homeowners obtain a couple of samples to start. Apply two coats of each to very small areas of the deck as a test to properly assess the color and appearance of the different stains before making a purchase. Once applied, the color of a stain often appears differently than expected, so it may or may not blend in well with the grain of the wood.

Also, I recommend checking that the price of the product you choose fits your budget. Keep in mind that higher-priced stains will not necessarily be the longest-lasting. Make sure you are happy with the appearance of the stain and choose an established brand, as you might need to buy more of the product in the future.

My Best Deck Stain Suggestions

I prefer penetrating semi-transparent products with all these different types of products as they allow the wood grain to show. They offer better-than-average UV protection and can be easier to reapply in the future. Penetration is better for oil-based versions than water-based versions. The exceptions for quality semi-transparent penetrating water-based stains would be the Defy Extreme Stains and the Restore-A-Deck Stains.

Want Free Help Choosing Your Deck Stain Type? Ask below in the comments!

See My List of the Best 8 Semi-transparent Deck Stains

What Other Tools Do I Need?

Some of the tools needed to get the job done include:

  • Personal protective equipment (PPE), such as eye coverings and gloves.
  • Deck cleaner and deck brightener (neutralizer) for prepping the surfaces.
  • Hose for rinsing things and hand rags for cleaning up.
  • Tarps or plastic for covering nearby vegetation.
  • A hammer, drill, screws, and nails for any repairs.
  • A bucket with stir sticks.
  • A pole sander and hand sander with sandpaper (no finer than 80 grit).
  • A pump-style or airless sprayer.
  • A roller and roller tray, a stain (paint) pad with a pole, or a speed mop.
  • Stain brushes with either natural or synthetic bristles.

How to Apply a Deck Stain

1. Review the Manufacturer’s Instructions

Measure your deck to best determine the proper amount of stain needed, and buy a little extra to ensure you don’t run out. Every product is slightly different, so I always read the manufacturer’s application instructions thoroughly. This helps confirm details such as whether to apply one or two coats, the dry time interval between the coats, and any safety recommendations.

2. Surface Preparation

Begin by removing all furniture and objects from the deck.

Remove any current (existing) stain using a deck stripping product. Remember to keep children and pets away from these and other chemicals. Thoroughly cleanse the surfaces using a wood cleaner, stiff brush, and power washer (if needed).

Apply a wood deck brightening product to neutralize (pH) acidity and prepare the wood pores for optimal absorption. Limit sanding except for very stubborn spots of existing stain, removing splinters, or leveling raised corners using 40 to 60-grit sandpaper. Let the surface dry completely for two days.

3. Apply Stain to One Board at a Time

You may choose to apply stain with a brush, pad, roller, or sprayer. Avoid pump sprayers and stain pads for thicker or solid stains. Begin applying stain to vertical surfaces followed by floors and staircases. Apply stain to a single board at a time completely from end to end while limiting overlap marks.

4. Use a Brush to “Even Out” the Finish

You may “back brush” the stain during the initial application and then use a separate brush to achieve a more uniform appearance.

5. Allow for Penetration and Remove Excess Stain

After the application, allow 20 to 30 minutes for the stain to completely soak into the wood. Wipe any remaining, unabsorbed stain away to avoid blotches.

6. Prevent Exposure to Moisture

Remember the importance of checking the weather forecast before starting for any chances of rain in the next 24 hours and have tarps or plastic on hand to cover the deck—just in case.

Top Oil-

Based Stain

Top Water-Based Stain

Top Solid Color Stain

Easiest to Apply Stain

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Scott Paul ~ Restoring Wood & Decks Since 1993 Owner
As an article and comment contributor to the site, Scott has been around the pressure washing industry since attending college. In 1993 he started his first company called Oakland Pressure Wash specializing in exterior pressure washing and deck staining. That company evolved into OPW L.L.C. shortly thereafter concentrating more on exterior wood and deck restoration. Scott and his Deck Cleaning Michigan company have restored over 10,000 decks in the Metro Detroit area since the early years. He has become an authority in the deck restoration industry and has contributed to numerous wood restoration forums and informative sites. All the products he suggests through this site are sold through online sites and in retail stores, allowing the consumer to choose their own means of purchase. Scott’s eCommerce sites do sell many top brands he endorses and if you appreciate any of the help he has offered then feel free to purchase from one of them.

Related Deck Stain Help Articles & Reviews

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Michael Grubach
Michael Grubach
7 years ago

Just stripped, pressure washed, now getting ready to sand my solid stained deck to apply a new solid stain. What is the best way to apply the solid stain and how long between coats and how many coats should I do. Im doing black on the spindles/railings, and a dark red on everything else. Previous color was a medium dark brown.

Joe
Joe
7 years ago

New deck finished last August. Ready to stain and need advice on the best semi transparent to use. Deck is in the sun 24/7 in Kentucky

keith daymond
keith daymond
7 years ago

what is the differance between semi solid stain and regular stain ? I’m a firsttime stainer

John
John
7 years ago

I have an IPE deck in the Northeast and just used IPE Oil to stain. The deck is approx 1,000 sf with southern exposure and gets full sunlight.
1) After only several weeks the deck no longer beads water. Should i be applying a separate sealer on top of the IPE oil stain?
2) I would like to minimize my maintenance going forward but want to keep the nice wood look. By minimize maintenance I mean not having to re-sand the deck. I expect to be re-applying my IPE Oil in the fall. What is the best procedure to follow going forward ?
3) For cleaning i use Sodium Percarbonate, and for brightening I use Oxalic Acid. Most frustrating are all the furniture and planter blotches on the deck by the end of the summer season. Deck looks brand new under the furniture and planters, almost to the point of still repelling water. Whereas all the exposed areas are completely faded and in sore need of a re-stain. It’s near impossible to get both of these areas of deck, faded and unfaded, to look similar before re-staining. What is the best way to manage this?

John
John
7 years ago

Thanks, so no need to be concerned with the surface no longer beading water since IPE will not absorb. Also for maintenance each year, I should strip and brighten to create an even appearance and then re-stain to keep the nice wood look.

les
les
7 years ago

Our home has a 40 year old 6-step landscape stairway made up of 12 foot 6×6 (finished size) pressure treated timbers. Some are in direct contact with the soil. Originally, a Cabot or Olympic semi-transparent stain was applied, which remained for a year or two, when we decided to go for a darker color. So we applied an opaque Behr acrylic stain after using the Behr prep solutions. The Behr coating has required repainting every year or two because of uneven peeling and wear.

Small gaps between the stone side walls and the ends of the timbers prevented painting the timber ends and years of leaves collecting between the walls and timbers have lead to decay of the ends of several of the timbers. In addition, cracks in the top surface of the treads have allowed water to cause some areas of surface decay.

Rebuilding is not feasible, so I cut away the decayed areas and used the System 3 Rot Fix product system to apply a borate solution, coated soft areas with penetrating epoxy, inserted borate rods, and replaced the decayed wood with epoxy putty.

We’d like to change the color somewhat, but since adhesion of the existing finish is uneven, we plan a complete sanding. A penetrating stain would not hide the repairs, so it appears we need an opaque stain (paint?)

This is in Connecticut – rain, snow, heat, humidity and cold. Afternoon sun only. No mold issues.

Any thoughts or suggestions regarding procedures and products would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Les

les
les
7 years ago

Thanks –
Is sanding enough. or something likr Behr 2-in-1 Prep needed?
Les

Karen
Karen
7 years ago

Great info on your site – thank you!

I have a large deck that took me all summer (2017) to sand completely to just-like new-build status. The deck is only three years old and was painted or shellacked by the previous owner in some sort of horrible product and/or labor on a day that must have been 112 degrees, so it all had to go! Last summer I purchased Cabot semi-solid oil-based decking stain in two shades: black and oak brown.

My intent this summer is to stain the deck in a two-tone style with the upper railing and spindles black and the floor and flight of stairs brown. When I tested one coat of each color, to my horror it looks like flat paint and does not show as much of the grain of the wood as I would like and the finish is just dull. I purchased a total of five gallons and obviously cannot return it.

So, is there an option to mix something with it to get a more translucent and shiny finish rather than such a solid, flat finish? I also wouldn’t mind the brown being slightly deeper as it appears a bit redish. Could I also use a rag to wipe some of it off to get a more translucent look instead of only using a rag for the excess?

The deck looks brand new after a ton of work, and I just cannot bring myself to move forward after my test areas. I am committed to getting this done right, no matter the work to go into it. Please advise, I would appreciate any advice from a professional.

Thank you,
Karen

Scott
Scott
7 years ago

I’ve been reading up on many articles and topics covered throughout the website, and I have to say I’ve learned a lot. I’m to the point now, though, where I’m trying to determine using a Water-based stain vs. Oil-based stain. Will you provide me with some advice?

Goal: For my deck to look as natural as possible.

Central Illinois
Covered Deck – West Facing – Full Shade AM / Partial Sun 1-4 / Full Sun 4-8
Pressure Treated Pine Floor, Cedar Verticals and Rails (rails seem to be grey or white at this point)
No Mold of Mildew Issues that I know of
New Deck, never been stained, weathered going on maybe 6-9 months now (not sure when it was built)

I’ll note, too, that I noticed Anna’s post about a week ago and it appears that you recommended TWP to her. Would the same apply here?

Thanks!

Scott
Scott
7 years ago

Thanks for the reply! So I’m an educated consumer, will you tell me why the TWP 1500 and not the TWP 100?

I have a few areas that need sanding (mostly where there are stamps on the pressure treated floor and a few spots around screw holes). I don’t plan to stain for a few more weeks, but is it ok to sand now? I ask because I believe I read how sanding will make it harder for the oil to absorb in those areas. Is there a recommended wait time to stain after sanding?

Finally, sorry for all the follow-up questions, in the picture attached, I noticed this dark line along the bottom of one of my rails. Does this appear to be mold/mildew? And will the RAD Cleaner and Brightener I plan to use before I stain take care of this issue?

Thanks again for your help!

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Scott
Scott
7 years ago

Ok. Thanks again!

Thomas
Thomas
7 years ago

Hello – I’m trying to decide between Cabot Semi-solid and Olympic semi-solid. Which one is better?

Shannan Cochrane
Shannan Cochrane
7 years ago

Hello! I have a Douglas Fir deck that was installed last November and weathered through winter. I would love you opinion on the best finish I could put on my deck that will resemble how it looks when it is wet. Also a product that I could pick up in Salt Lake City, Utah would be a great help. Thanks in advance!

Diane
Diane
7 years ago

I have a cedar fence that I want preserve and not grey. Is the semi-solid stain my best option? Best brand recommendation? Can I use a sprayer to apply?
Thankyou!

Anna
Anna
7 years ago

I’m preparing to clean, brighten, and stain my new cedar deck (built 12 mo ago), and reading everything I can on your site to make sure I get the right products. For stains, I want to go as natural as possible bc I have dogs that scratch up the wood and I want those scratches to show as little as possible. I also want to do as little future maintenance as possible. If I stain this year using RAD or TWP, can I just ‘touch up’ or reapply as needed in high traffic areas? I don’t have to strip and clean and brighten every year, right? (As long as I continue using the same product).
We’re in MN, and the deck gets some pretty intense sun, and I prefer working with water-based products… but I don’t want my ‘preference’ to lead to having to apply more often because it’s inferior. Is RAD (water) truly as good as TWP (oil)?

Andrew
Andrew
7 years ago

Just bought our house from in laws, FIL used deckover product and it needs to be done again. Not a fan of the reviews and price for what I would need to finish the deck. Recommendations for a solid stain brand that has decent durability. Live in New England so the winters can be a bit rough on deck finishes

David Melair
David Melair
7 years ago

Have you ever used an oil based semi transparent stain on tibertech composite decking? The owners manual says that you can treat it like wood in the use of finishing. My deck as faded tremendously over a 5 year period and I would like to stain it a darker color. After staining, can I apply a satin gloss poly on top to create a slight sheen.

Thanks!

-David

Maureen
Maureen
7 years ago

Just used twp stain 1500 oil based on old deck- is there a sealer that I can put on top of this?
would it be worth sealing? if so what brand would you recommend?

Maureen
Maureen
7 years ago

Ok- thank you

Chris
Chris
7 years ago

I am using a penetrating oil-based CLEAR sealant on my fence. Is it necessary to stir the 5-gallon can before applying and then intermittently stir as I work? Thank you.

LDC
LDC
7 years ago

Are you familiar with the deck stain product One Time? If so, would you please share your thoughts / experience with this product? I am building a deck (pressure treated pine) and am considering using this. I live in North Florida and am on the hunt for the best stain in my climate – any suggestions? Thank you!

Wendy
Wendy
7 years ago

Can you please make a suggestion for prepping my yard for protection while using Restore-A-Deck products? I’m concerned about siding on the house, adjacent garden beds and run-off to the pool. Do I use tarps and tape? How would a professional handle and fasten protection in place? Thank you.

Aaron
Aaron
7 years ago

Just installed new redwood deck. Letting it weather for the moment before staining. Looking at the TWP 100 series. Curious which color you would recommend for the most natural redwood look? The redwood tone or something else?

Gi Wilson
Gi Wilson
7 years ago

Bought a house 4 years ago. Deck was done up in a redwood color and is of unknown age but less than 17 years. Stupidly, I threw out the old cans found in the garage that would have indicated what was used on the deck. It appeared to be a solid color but has mostly worn off. I plan to power sand to remove the remaining paint/stain as well as to smooth the boards. Will also replace several boards that have cracked or rotted. I like the look of the weathered wood. The deck is right next to the koi pond so cannot use toxic products as the runoff would contaminate the pond. Any thoughts or recommendations will be much appreciated.

Crystal Martin
Crystal Martin
7 years ago

Hi….A neighbor is asking for assistance with re-staining a faded deck and stairs which is currently stained with Cabot’s semi-transparent deck and siding stain in Cordovan brown. This deck was restained last year but it takes a beating from the sun and they live on an island although they are not Oceanfront but fading is a serious issue in a very short amount of time. So it looks like it hasn’t been stained and over five years at this point. My question to you is can we just reapply another coat after pressure washing and cleaning the deck really well? And is there anything that we can do that would not require serious prep work in order for this deck not to have to be restained every year? Can two coats possibly be applied to prolong having to restain every year??

Crystal Martin
Crystal Martin
7 years ago

Is there anything that I can do to avoid having to strip the decks and stairs, since it is such a large area? I can even see if the homeowner is interested in maybe switching to a semi solid stain or something in the same color that would help us avoid having to strip the wood. Any suggestions are appreciated!

DIYBill
DIYBill
7 years ago

I have a 5 year old deck, it’s pressure treated yellow wood. I just stripped and sanded off BM translucent redwood stain which was flaking off like crazy because it’s was never applied correctly. I purchased Shermin-Williams Superdeck cedar tone oil based stain but have not applied it yet. What are yout thoughts on oil based stain before I move forward. Thanks in advance!
Below is a link of me sanding the deck:
https://youtu.be/hncRt8LxEvM

Cody
Cody
7 years ago

Can u apply a different brand of oil-based transparent stain over another brand of transparent oil- based stain? I have a 2 year old deck stained with transparent red lable Penofin that is in need of another coat. As it can be recoated without having to strip it I would like to just clean/brighten it and apply Flood CWF-UV over it because they are both oil-based penetraring transparent stains
Thanks!

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Pete
Pete
7 years ago

Live on Long Island New York, 8year deck . Full sun from 11am-2pm. Lately heavy snow in winter, rainy spring, hot summers. Never had a problem with mold.For the eight years had the Benjamin More Arborcoat water base. Had to nurse It along for 8 years but failing and pealing, was a failure stain from the beginning. Photo shows I am striping deck and would like to use a semitransparent, one of your best 5 recommendations. Two questions, I apply the striper, power wash, then do it again. Using BEHR #64 wood stain & finish stripper. Two questions, should the wood be 100% clear of all original stain and should I sand the deck? Any recommendation which of the five stains you would recommend?

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Neil
Neil
7 years ago

I used Thompson stain a few year ago and it was terrible it all peeled,we have the deck back to the bare wood now after a lot of hard work, after pressure washing and leaving the deck for two seasons with nothing on it ,We are now ready to stain again ,Is Olympic stain good ?

Chris
Chris
8 years ago

I am looking for a ( semi)opaque oilbased stain (like the old fashioned real stuff no chipping ) in white.

Back in the 80s and 90s my dad had a cedar house and when it got to looking weathered he would just put another coat of stain on top…no scprapping peeling or sanding required.

I have a large Douglas firmpergola that I would like to treat in a similar fashion…

Any suggestions on what brand might be able to pull this off?

Dawn
Dawn
8 years ago

Just hired a professional to stain deck. Should these brush marks and wood showing through be the end result with solid stain? I assumed it would be solid and even as if painted.

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Brian
Brian
8 years ago

I live in NJ. I replaced a large amount of boards on my deck, hammered down all nails that were up, sanded ALL of the boards down and left the deck that way for the winter. As Spring seems to finally be here I am looking for a stretch of sunny weather to prep and stain my deck. I have purchased Restore-A-Deck and my stain is TWP. My question is should I sand down the deck again or just go right into the Restore-A-Deck? And how long should I wait between the Restore and beginning to stain? Thanks.

Brian
Brian
8 years ago

Ok thank you. A couple other questions. Does the deck need to be dry for any amount of days before I use Restore-A-Deck? After waiting 48 hours after prep to apply the stain how long do I need the deck to stay dry after the stain application? My concern is finding a long enough period of days with no rain which is tough here in the Northeast and the weather people being wrong 50% of the time!!

Brian
Brian
8 years ago

Thank you very much. Advice is always so good and much appreciated

Jan
Jan
8 years ago

Our wood deck has Cabot semi solid deck stain (oil based) on it now, since last summer. THe problem is that we chose too light of a color and every dirty paw print from our dog shows on it. We want to go darker but not sure we like the Cabot that well. We just want to go over it and put on a darker color. What do you suggest? We have about 600 sq ft.

Jan
Jan
8 years ago

You mean we can’t go over it with the same product like adding another coat of paint, even for touch-ups?

Jan
Jan
8 years ago

Ok. Cabot it is. We can’t live with this light color any longer. Thank you!

frontierjeanne
frontierjeanne
8 years ago

Looking for help selecting a long-lasting semi-transparent stain for new, but well-seasoned, yellow cedar house. Recommendations, please?

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frontierjeanne
frontierjeanne
8 years ago

It’s been up since last August, so about 8 months. It’s beyond dry, though, the wood dried enclosed for over a year prior to being built.

frontierjeanne
frontierjeanne
8 years ago

Thank you!

Cherie Hughes
Cherie Hughes
8 years ago

We are searching for a product to use to refinish a composite material deck. The sealer that came on the product from the manufacturer (Dasso) failed (changed color and pealed) within a few months. Has anyone had good luck with a product on this type of material?

Cherie Hughes
Cherie Hughes
8 years ago

With good success?

Mary M
Mary M
8 years ago

Sorry about last post – our deck is made of GARAPA.. The auto type put “grape” deck

Mary M
Mary M
8 years ago

We just had our grape deck sanded yesterday and we were planning on sealing it today with Cutek Extreme (since there was no rain planned in the forecast today). I woke up and there was morning dew all over the deck. It’s supposed to Thunderstorm tomorrow afternoon. What should I do? Tarp it and wait a few days? Or buy a moisture measurement tool to see if its ok to stain? It’s mostly dry (looking) now. Please advise ASAP. Jus spent a fortune sanding it! Ugh!

joe
joe
8 years ago

my deck is about 20 years old . it still looks good minimal cracking. I have always used thompsons transparent sealer on it . last time I applied it was about 5 years ago. I would like to apply something that will last along time. what should I put on it to last the longest? brand name , oil or water based . I would prefer a good quality product .thanks in advance ..

joe
joe
8 years ago

thank you

Abby A Carr
Abby A Carr
8 years ago

Can I mix a transparent stain oil based product with a semi-transparent stain product on my deck?

Rick George
Rick George
8 years ago

My house was built in 1987, has a dark brown stain which look to be a semi-solid from all I am reading. it as faded where the sun hits it. looking to recoat but do not want a film based which never would have come close to lasting this long. Don’t know if it was oil or water based. T1-11 siding, trim wood pine, Michigan. Thanks in advance for any input.

Rick George
Rick George
8 years ago

Sorry it took a few days and looking at the pictures there not that good. last pic is close up of middle one, it doesn’t get sun but stuff is hard and doesn’t want to come off. I can try for some better pics. Thanks for looking

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Rick George
Rick George
8 years ago

Since this stain was applied in 1987 and I do not know if it was oil or water base what would be your professional opinion on my best option to re-stain. (power washing, chemical cleaners etc for prepping, what type/brand of stain would work best to not have peal in the future.

Kari Steed
Kari Steed
8 years ago

I am having trouble determining which semi-solid oil stain would be best for me. Please help. I need white… this seems to be a problem. Any assistance in pointing me in the right direction would be great

Deb
Deb
8 years ago

Can l use an akrylic stain over an oil stain that has been on my deck for 2 summers already. I would like to restain this spring and need to know my options. Thank you

Ba Hen
Ba Hen
8 years ago

We have a Redwood deck that was likely built 25 years ago. We have lived in the home for about five years. We initially had the deck sanded and finished with a semi transparent Preseva wood (oil based). We reapplied Preservawood this year. We would like to try something that would provide a deeper more even color and show a bit of grain. We get lots of sap drop from overhanging trees. Would an oil based “semi-solid” be a better choice for this application? Recommendations? We live in a coastal area so we do get some fog drip as well as occasional rain.

Annalena Lucchesi
Annalena Lucchesi
8 years ago

We would like to stain our deck grey. It was built 5 months ago, pressure treated lumber and is dry. We would like to be able to see the grains in the wood. Not sure if we need to use semi transparent?

Betty Brown
Betty Brown
8 years ago

I live in central Louisiana we are having a new deck built from treated pine. Would like to have a shine finish with a dark stain. Is there anything on the market that would give us this look?

JRA
JRA
8 years ago

In June 2016 I had a new cedar deck installed. I let the wood age a little and in October 2016 I cleaned, brightened, and stained the deck. All with Penofin brand products. The stain is oil based. It looked great.

After the winter, I wanted to put another coat of stain on. The deck looked a little dirty, so I cleaned, brightened and stained the deck. Again, Using Penofin products. It looked good but not as good as it did the fall before.

Aftera couple weeks or so, I noticed the stain was looking somewhat black/dirty. This got even worse in a few more weeks. I am not sure what happened.

What caused the stain to do this?
How do I correct this?
How do I make sure it doesn’t happen again?

See pictures of the deck after staining the second time and it turned black/dirty.

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Christina
Christina
8 years ago

Having a new fence installed in Savannah, GA. We like the look of the semi transparent. What would you recommend for stain Brand?

Duane
Duane
8 years ago

We bought a shore house in Galveston. The deck was most likely painted with regular house paint and not primed. Now the 1 year old deck is peeling. What stain and what should I use to clear the cheap paint job?

From the article I should use semi-transparent stain. How to get the “old” paint off?

Pam Erwin
Pam Erwin
8 years ago

We have a wood deck for our front porch. What can I use that ice salt remover won’t damage? thanks

Jeff R McCrone
Jeff R McCrone
8 years ago

I have a 12 month old deck oceanfront in north florida. Time to stain. What would you suggest.. Not concerned as much about looks as long term moisture and UV protections

Emily
Emily
8 years ago

What is the best deck stain to survive Canadian winters?

Jana Arnett
Jana Arnett
8 years ago

Non-Drying Oil vs Drying Oil-Based Stains- I have a new deck that has “seasoned” for almost 12 months. The deck is covered however both the edges and stairs get a lot of hot sun and rain (we live in Alabama). I plan to clean then brighten prior to staining. From what I have learned from your site, I plan to use Armstrong Clark penetrating semi-transparent stain, would you agree? What I am not sure of is, is a penetrating semi-transparent stain available in both Non-Drying Oil and Drying Oil-Based? If so, which one would be best for our full sun exposure? Great website!
Jana

Karl
Karl
8 years ago

Plan to refinish deck that was painted 3 yrs ago with pictured product. Some areas have peeled/exposed wood. Planning to apply similar product, wondering about surface prep – sanding to remove peeling paint in these areas ok, or is more prep needed? Some areas have black substance that appears to be mold. Deck is fairly well shaded, midwest KY climate.

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Barbara Seltenreich
Barbara Seltenreich
8 years ago
Reply to  Karl

I used that same product and it was not cheap and it only lasted less than a year. Stripped the entire decks and refinished it unfortunately I had to use a solid stain again because I was told I could not go to a semi-transparent stain once you use a solid . Wish I knew that before.

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Karl
Karl
8 years ago

Wow, that’s a bummer. What solid stain did you use when you refinished? Is it performing any better?

Dave
Dave
8 years ago

Hi, I’ve got a 1200 sq foot deck with old and darkened Penofin transparent stain. No time to strip it off, but have cleaned whole deck and water does not bead on it. What are my options for staining, to also cover existing stain. (The existing is now a dark brown) thinking a dark semi-solid of some type, just not sure if that would cover it?

Bruce
Bruce
8 years ago

I bought Flood transparent stain but it’s not covering the light areas of the deck. Is it recommended mixing the remaining gallons with a semi or solid stain for better coverage?

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