This post was updated on August 16, 2024
Hi, I am Scott Paul, a leading exterior restoration contractor and business owner with over 30 years of experience in new deck staining and prep. My new wood stain reviews and help tips are based on my history as a wood and deck restoration contractor and actual hands-on testing, all designed to present you with the top product choices. See here for more info about me.
Want to Stain A New Deck in 2024?
Every spring, I get hundreds of questions about when to stain a new deck, wood fence, or exterior of a wood home. This is the second most popular question on DeckStainHelp.com, so I created an updated and comprehensive guide to staining a new deck, including some of the best stain brands and types of deck stains to use on your new wood. But as always, I am here to help if you still have questions! Just post a comment below, and I’ll be glad to assist you.
How Long Should you Wait to Stain a New Deck
My Pro Steps to Understanding New Deck Staining
1. Should I Stain the New Decking?
Yes. Staining your deck will help protect the wood from elements such as water and UV graying. However, it’s important to know when to stain a new deck to ensure that the stain absorbs properly and does not prematurely fail.
2. How Long Should You Wait Before You Stain a New Deck?
The best time to stain a deck depends on the type of wood used.
- If your deck was made with new, smooth wood, you’ll need to wait at least three months before staining your deck.
- Rough-sawn wood can be stained right away as long as it is clean and the wood is dry. If you are unsure if you have rough-sawn wood, post a picture in the comment area with some basic info about your project, and we’ll help you figure it out.
- Kiln-dried and KDAT wood will need one to two months before you can stain it.
3. Weathering and Your New Wood Deck: Why Wait to Stain a Deck?
Almost all new exterior wood must be weathered before applying deck stain. Many homeowners believe that you weather the wood to reduce the moisture content of the wood, but while this is important, it’s not the main reason you will need to weather the deck. The porosity of the wood is the main concern: Fresh wood needs time to become porous enough to allow the stain to soak into the wood. If the stain can’t soak in properly, it will dry on top of the wood, leading to premature failure of the stain.
New Rough Sawn Wood
There is no need to weather or prep new-bought sawn wood. It is very absorbent and will not have a mill glaze. Just make sure it is clean, and you can go ahead and apply your wood and deck stain.
4. What Happens if You Stain a Deck Too Soon?
If you try to stain new wood too soon, you run the risk that the stain will not properly penetrate and adhere. The wood needs to be porous so that the stain can soak in and reflect your chosen color. If the stain doesn’t take, the color will fade in the sun and wash out in the rain.
5. How to Stain a New Deck
My new deck staining tips apply to all wooden exteriors, including decks, cedar-framed homes, log cabins, wood fences, and other structures.
Step 1: Weather the New Wood
It is important to follow the stain manufacturer’s directions on this as they vary. Most stain brands will suggest anywhere from 1 to 4 months after the deck or wood is installed. Why the difference? Not all stains are created equal or have the same opacity. Thinner stains can penetrate better, so they have a shorter weathering period compared to solid stains, which are much thicker in consistency.
Step 2: Prep New Wood for Staining
After the weathering process, you must prep the wood. When wood is left exposed to sunlight, UV radiation will turn it slightly gray or white. This oxidation of the wood will need to be removed. The new smooth wood may also have a mill glaze that must come off. A good deck cleaner removes the mill glaze, oxidation, and dirt. After this step, follow up with an exterior wood brightener. I like the Restore-A-Deck cleaner/brightener kits for this prep.
Step 3: Sand the New Wood?
I do not suggest sanding new wood unless you need to remove the “wood fuzzies” or some slivers. If the wood has raised fibers that make it look furry after prepping, sand with 60-to-80-grit paper, then use the brightener after the sanding to help open the wood’s pores. Rinse well with a pressure washer when done.
Step 4: Follow Up With Another Coat after 1 Year
Be prepared to apply a maintenance coat of your preferred product to your newly stained deck in 12 to 18 months. I have found that the first time staining new wood typically does not last as long as the second or subsequent coatings.
6. My Recommended Wood Stain Brands for New Decks
Armstrong-Clark Wood Stains
Armstrong-Clark deck stains can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Two to three months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.5/10
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stains
Restore-A-Deck wood stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. It can be used on new wood and deck materials such as pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, IPE, and exotic hardwoods.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Three months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.625/10
TWP 100 Pro Series Stains
TWP 100 Pro Series stains are only allowed in 35 states; use TWP 1500 stain if you’re in a low-VOC state. TWP 100 Pro Series stain can be used on new wood and deck materials, including pressure-treated pine and cedar.
- Months to Weather New Wood Before Using: Four to 12 months
- Number of Coats Needed for New Wood: One coat
- Consumer Star Rating:
- DeckStainHelp.com Rating: 8.69/10
Best Water-Based Deck Stain for New Wood | The Easiest Applying Deck Stain for New Wood | Best Oil-Based Deck Stain for New Wood |
Months to Weather New Wood: 3 months for both semi-transparent and solid stain colors. | Months to Weather New Wood: 2-3 months for transparent and semi-transparent colors. 12 months for semi-solid. | Months to Weather New Wood: 4 - 12 months for all TWP Series and Colors. |
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From: $47.99 *Free Shipping | From: $65.99 *Free Shipping | From: $41.99 *Plus Shipping |
My Video on Staining a New Wood Deck, Step-by-Step
7. New Wood Deck Staining Common Questions
What Happens if You Stain Pressure-Treated Wood Too Soon?
Like other types of wood, you can’t stain pressure-treated wood too soon. If you do, you will lose the stain, and your deck won’t be the color you hoped for. Even if the stain doesn’t wash off, it can dry on blotchy, and you won’t be happy with the result. The same applies to Cedar and Redwood Decks.
When Should You Not Stain a Deck?
Don’t stain a deck when it’s wet or damp or right after the wood has been installed. The best time to stain a deck is after it’s properly weathered and completely dry.
Can I Prestain New Wood Decks?
We do not suggest prestaining new smooth wood but you can prestain rough sawn wood. While it may be easier to pre-stain, it will be additional work when your coating ahs failed and you have to redo the steps.
Stain All Sides of the New Deck Board?
Many people assume or ask if they should stain all sides of the decking boards. This is not a good idea, as it can 100% seal the wood, resulting in dry rot as the wood cannot “breathe.” You want to stain only the exposed wood after it is installed.
8. Questions on New Deck Staining
Are you still unsure of when to stain your new deck, how to stain your new deck, and what stain brand or type to use? Please ask below if you still have questions about when to stain a new deck and how to do it. I am glad to assist you.
What should I do to refinish my deck that has been treated with One Time twice in8-9 years?
Post some pics in the comments for prep help as the One Time does need to be removed first.
Hi there- 4 year old pine deck installed in October of 2020. Stained it with SW Superdeck Exterior deck stain solid, 6 months later as told to do. Within a month looked awful and showed everything from foot prints to pollen etc. In a few months looked completely awful. Just had it pressure washed Spring 2024 again and looks better but needing to be stained now. What do you suggest that will not only look good, protect, but also hold up well? Do not know if this is a pine issue or stain issue? Or both?Tempted to sand floor and do a natural stain instead of the one we used which is a darker brown like pine cone. HELP!! First photo is from March 2021 right after first stain on new deck and last is from 2024 this week.Now cannot even tell it was pressure washed. 🙁
For the best solid stain options, look at this article: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/what-are-the-best-solid-color-deck-stains/
Yes, we read that before, but were wondering if you would sand it and start over?
Removing solid stains is not easy, but it can be done. See this for tips:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
Many people will sand the flooring and go for a two-toned look:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/how-to-remove-a-solid-color-deck-stain-or-paint/
That is what we would like to do. Leave railings the chocolate color and the flooring a natural stain color. Any advice on do’s and don’t’s of a pine deck in your experience?
No. Just read the articles we sent prior with tips on what works best. Wood type does not matter.
I have a 30 foot redwood play set which has been up for 5 years I restain it every other year my questions are: can I put a lighter stain over this darker redwood stain? If I want to stain on Tuesday and it rains on Monday can I still stain on Tuesday or do I have to wait for dry sunny weather for a few days before applying a new coat of stain?
You cannot stain it lighter in less you are using solid color stains.
What happened to the second part of the question about the rain?!
It varies based on the stain brand you are using, so there is no way to answer this without knowing.
When our home was purchased the deck boards were brand new, life happened and the 3 month waiting period turned into almost 3 years and kids with splinters. This is after deck cleaner and power washing . Do we need to sand? What coverage do you recommend? Mostly full sun CT
We are not fans of power sanding unless needed. You could lightly hand or pole sand to remove splinters. As for stain, what appearance do you want? We prefer the semi-transparent penetrating stains: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
We have a new cottage that’s pine. It’s been sitting with no stain for 8 months. The area is subject to a lot of snow & rain. I like the idea of using an oil based stain because of penetration in the wood and looks really nice but since the wood could be damp I’m worried the oil could promote mold. I also would like to choose a stain from a store so that I can actually see the colors which I can’t if I ordered stain online. I live in Illinois/Wisconsin. Is there a high rated stain that can be purchased in a store (Home Depot, Ace, farm & fleet Sherwin Williams, Lowe’s) Is there an oil stain ( hybrid) that can be used on wood if it is damp? Thank you.
No quality stains are big box stores:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/deck-stain-quality-at-lowes-or-home-depot/
If it is “hybrid” it means it is water-based. No true oil can be suspended in water.
Best brands if you can find locally at quality paint stores or lumber yards:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/best-semi-transparent-deck-stain-reviews/
I have a client with a new deck out in last Nov. It’s knotty pine but she doesn’t like the knots and wants them filled? Or thinks it a weakness in the board protection. What do you think?
Thanks, Justin
Bad idea. Wood fillers doe not work well (fail easily) for exterior wood and will not “stain” to blend with deck stains that are not fully opaque.
Thanks for all this wonderful information. We are currently in the process of having three porch added to our home. We are in eastern NC. Front covered porch get morning sun, side covered lining gets nothing and prone to mold. Back porch is half screened in and half open deck and get mid-day and afternoon sun.
I didn’t realize staining a deck was so scientific but in doing my research on how to make this huge investment last I’ve quickly learned otherwise.
I have several question. For the front I would love to paint base and post white with the floor being stained too keep the wood look but I do want to alter the color. Is this a good idea? How should I go about doing this?
For the side I would love to keep similar to the front, but since mold is a problem should I consider something different?
The back, I was told by the builders I need to stain before they put the screens in because I won’t be able to get to the wood behind the screens unless I remove the panels. How do I handle this if I need to let the wood weather first? For this one I would love to stain in the color of the floors on the front and sides. What product do you suggest and what process should I use?
Thanks for any advice you can give me!
You want a two-toned deck. See here: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-have-a-two-toned-deck/
Do not pre-stain. Just weather, prep, and stain the exposed wood after.
Should i install new deck boards now before the snow hits or wait until spring? I bought some restore a deck and finished my deck 2 years ago. Deck had a tree in the middle we had cut down, now have to install about 8 new 15 ft boards. Probably get enough snow in Iowa where it will be sitting on the new wood most of the winter. Will this be extremely detrimental to the wood? I would like to stain the deck before the summer heat hits.
Now.
to piggy back on the original post- a month ago I replaced 8 bad boards, cleaned and brightened the entire deck (450 sf) When do I stain? Do i stain the old and come back and stain the new in 2 months?
Do it all at the same time in a few months. Redo the prep then.
so, to confirm, it’s okay for the old boards to be “unprotected”/ “unstained” for the two months the new boards need to weather.
Yes, this needs to be done.
Thank you so much!
You are welcome!
My deck and screened porch was completed in May 2023. The outside deck appears ready to stain. However, how much of the screened in portion do I stain? Do I stain the exposed ceiling joists too?
thank you
You would only stain the ceiling for aesthetic reasons. It does not have to be done.
I am just now installing a new western red cedar decking that has been kiln dried and is smooth. Is it OK to leave it untreated through the winter and wait for it to dry in the spring before applying sealant or stain? Thank you
Yes.
Just finished installing new redwood deck2 weeks ago. It has already rained on it 2 times. I live in Northern California sierras, I will get snow. Do I try and stain in between weather? or do I need to wait for spring. If I wait to spring what damage will the snow/rain do. Iam very worried about my beautiful redwood.
It has to be 3 or more months of weathering and then prep before staining. Best to wait until Spring. No damage will occur.
Hello!
When weathering a deck, can you use an outdoor rug and/or have other items on it such as a grill, patio table, deckbox? Tia.
We would keep the rug off but okay for furniture and grills.
I am in Southern California and building a cedar wood gate. The cedar planks were purchased at Lowes and one side is rough and the other smooth. Are these Rough-sawn wood or only one side is rough sawn. Should I wait to stain or can I stain before putting gate together so both sides are stained. I plan to have the smooth facing out.
I am thinking of using Restore A Deck semi-transparent dark walnut stain.
That is rough sawn. If staining that side, you can do it now. If staining smooth side, you need to weather and prep.
I had a new deck w/rails built in the back and new posts and rails built on the front porch about 3 months ago. Can I wait until next spring/summer to stain and paint? Pressure treated wood.
Yes, you can.
Hello,
I have new red cedar shingle siding, red cedar trim, and Douglas fir T&G soffits.
All were installed before March of 2023.
Can I use TWP without the cleaning prep step ?
Website says clear offers no UV protection. What percentage of UV protection is obtained with the TWP 100 stains ?
Thank you
No, you have to prep. UV protection is not determined by percentage so not sure what you are asking.
Hello,
I have a new home sided with red cedar shingles. The trim is also red cedar. the siding was completed in March 2023. I want to use a clear finish on the entire exterior. The soffits are Douglas fir T&G. The house is located in Western Washington state near the salt water.
Looking at reviews of Penofin I initially thought the Red label might be the best , but seeing this comment site perhaps TWP is preferable ?
Please let me know your opinion.
Thank you,
Felix Smith
TWP is much better than Penofin.
We had a new deck in early July. It’s a mix of green treated wood and rough sawed timbers for the vertical posts. Can I wait until spring to stain it all together? Or should I try and get this done before it freezes? Bare in mind, we live in South Dakota and can expect temps as low as 50 below zero.
Do it all in the Spring.
Thank you so very much for your advice and guidance. If I find something that works with the oil stains, I will let you know. I will move forward in purchasing the TWP 100 Series Stain. It is so nice to have someone to look to for help. Thank you so much again.
By the way, I live in East Texas where it is extremely hot and humid. Most of my deck is covered, but 1/3 of it is in the sun. I love the natural grain of wood which is why I want a transparent or semi transparent stain. Would you recommend the TWP 100 pro series (oil). I have always thought that oil is really good for preserving wood. I was going to purchase Cabot Australian Timber Oil until I did the research. I am a widow who does everything myself, so I need all the help I can get. Thank you so much for your help.
TWP 100 Series is a great stain and much better than Cabot.
I have a new treated pine deck panel deck. It has been down now for about 6 months. Before I stain it, my old power washer leaked oil in several places before I caught it. I have used Dawn and 409 and power washed (with a new power washer) and it won’t come up. Any suggestions on how to get the oil out of the wood before staining? I want to use a transparent or semi transparent oil stain. Thank you so much.
Sorry but no, we are not sure what will remove oil from a wood deck. Maybe a concrete cleaner degreaser will work but we have never tried it.
I am building a redwood deck. I would like to use a clear sealer to protect it from the cold wet Winters and dry hot Summers. I want to see the natural wood grain under the sealer. What brand would you suggest to give this deck the best protection and look?
clears do not work to protect from UV graying. It must be tinted:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
Help! I need to re-stain a deck, but I do not know the original stain brand or color. it was done by the previous owners. This is what it looks like now… some of it is under a roof, and some of it is exposed to the elements
Thanks! Bob P
Remove the old stain first. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener with both additives. Once prepped, use one of these stains:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/the-5-best-deck-stain-reviews-and-ratings/
I’ve got some boards that were replaced a year ago, and I need to replace a few rotted boards as well. All the old wood is gray and weathered, a little bit of mildew… Should I replace boards with pressure treated pine now and plan to stain in the spring? Also, is there something I can do to prevent more wood from starting to rot over the winter?
Replace now so they can weather for prep and stain in the Spring. Nothing you can do to prevent rotting. Typically this happens from the bottom and is based on lack of airflow or a wet environment.
How long should we wait for a second coat of Twp 100 stain on a 8 month old pt pine deck. We will get first coat next week. North ga.
Wait a year after the first coat. Clean first.
Hi Scott,
I really appreciate your site and all the information you provide, you have saved me a lot of stress so THANK YOU!
I had a pressure treated deck put in about 3 months ago May 9,23. It’s now August 11, 23. The deck is in Columbia SC where summers are hot, humid, and rainy. The deck gets plenty of sun throughout the day.
Few questions please regarding staining/next steps:
1) It’s been 3 months but water still beads up on top of the decking boards and rail when I do the water test. It’s over an hour before the water droplets absorbed into the wood. Should I wait more to stain? How long? I was going to buy Sherwin Williams but not after reading some of the reviews. What would you recommend for my deck?
2) I heard this somewhere but Is it true that Oil-based stains are a bad idea in the South East with the warm and humid climates? Apparently creates a perfect environment for mold/mildew.
3) Some of the rails have warped already. Why is this happening?
4) It seems from recommendations you’ve made in below posts the recommendation (even for new decks) is to clean then brighten then stain? If fuzzies appear then sand with 80 grit. Correct?
Thank you so much!!
1. Yes, wait until late Fall or Spring. Any of the brands we suggest are better than the SW wood stains.
2. Not true. They contain mildewcides to prevent this but in generla, water based stains are less prone to mildew.
3. The pine wood. It is normal and cannot be prevented.
4. Yes, correct.
Hi Scott
We live in Raleigh, NC just finished building a new deck ( 8/7/23) 20 X 20 with 30 steps and 5 X 5 landing using pressure treated pine lumbar. We decided on black aluminum balusters for railings. Would you recommend the Defy semi transparent sealer and stain or the Armstrong Clark Hardwood stain. Does the Armstrong stain come in water based? I want to use a water based semi transparent stain.
Another question I have is what are your thoughts on sealers like the ones offered by DuraSeal that say they have a 25 year warranty
on their sealer. They claim you won’t need to seal your deck again for over 25 years.
Thanks
Sam
AC does not come in water based. Use the Restore A Deck Semi-transparent stain for the best option.
Nothing last 25 years. Those are gimmick products. Even if you use a product like DuraSeal, you will still need to clean and stain every 2-3 years.
@Scott Paul
Thanks for all of your great and patient answers to all the DIY questions. You are a Saint!
Welcome!
Hi, I’m getting conflicting opinions about when I should treat the Red Western Kelm Dried Cedar I just reboarded my deck with. The lumber yard I bought it from says once it absorbs water it’s ready for treatment, but I believe you are saying wait at least 3 months. We live in MN so waiting that long would put us in Nov where the temps are in the 30 or 40F range. I’ve stained with TWP before and really like the product someone else recommended Sikken stain. I want the wood to match the existing railing which I stained with TWP 101 Cedartone(See pic). Do you have a recommendation of what product/s to use first and after achieve this.
Thank you.
Rich
It varies based on the stain manufacturer and what they suggest, not what the lumber yard states. TWP is much better than Sikkens. TWP suggest 4-12 months and prep. See this:
https://twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
I used PPG Proluxe semi transparent stain on my house, the same stain that it was cover in orginally. The result isn’t good. It was prepared properly. Now I want to redo it in a solid stain. Which solid stain will work best? Should I use PPG’s solid or can I go with another company? Stripping the current stain is not an option.
Why cant you strip or remove it? Is is the proper way to prep.
To remove it from the entire house would be very difficult and expensive.I’ve already dropped 10k on the project. I can’t do it myself because much of the house is two stories high and I”m too old to be climbing ladders. What if I were to cover it with a good primer and put a solid stain over that? From the videos I”ve seen, the primers are effective. If that is an option, what combination would you suggest? I know this is a deck forum but it is a staining issue just the same. It is so difficult to get good information on this topic. So much of it is contradictory.
Primers are not designed for solid color wood stains. We would not use them. You run the risk of product failure if you do not prep correctly and you just stain over it. Prep is the most important part by far when it come to a stain’s performance.
Instead of stripping you could hire a company that does media blasting for prep and removing the Sikkens/Proluxe.
https://www.google.com/search?q=media+blasting+for+log+homes
Hello, We are currently having a new deck installed using kiln dried mahogany from Bluestardecks. On their label they say to put an initial coat of deck oil finish on the wood. I watched your video which said to wait at least 3 months before applying a stain. Please advise. Thanks. Mark
Always follow the directions of the stain brand you are using when it comes to when to stain new wood.
Is it best to stain all 6 sides of the wood for a pool deck after the 3 months aging process since the water will be seeping between the boards? We want it to last as long as possible since this is our 2nd deck around the pool in 12 years. The wood is treated pine.
No need to stain all sides. Just the exposed side only.
I live in Colorado. This spring I cleaned my deck with dawn dish soap in a bucket of water and a broom. I hosed it off very well. Then about 2 months later these white spots appeared. It’s been abnormally rainy the last 2 months but these spots started before that. I’ve tried to hose it off but they keep coming back with more. What should I do?
That is something accumulating on top, not coming from the wood. No idea what is it.
Hi we just had our 12’x 14’ deck completed yesterday. The fellow who installed it told us it was important to have it stained or painted right away. I had a painter come out today and he says that it should wait for at least 4 months up to a year before staining. The painter seems convincing but I don’t want my wood to warp like the man who installed it said it would if I don’t do it right away. What do you think? He painter also says he only uses Sherwin Williams SuperDeck products. Thank you for your time and advice.
Deck builder is wrong. New wood needs to weather and be prepped. SW deck products are very poor. You can read reviews here.
Thank you!
Hi! 2 questions……We had a deck around our pool built last December (2022). The weather in Texas has not cooperated long enough for us to stain/seal the wood and now the highs are in the 90-100’s. High-ish humidity in the mornings and much lower in the afternoons. Is it truly too hot to apply a stain?
2nd question. The wood (which I think is treated?) is not very smooth, has cracks(splits?) in some boards, as well as splintered out in areas. More cracks than splinters. I think some of the cracks were probably already there but some I think is from the weather. Would it be best to sand it all down? Pressure wash it then sand it? I have read so many different forums my head is spinning with everyone’s two cents! Any advice would be much appreciated!
1. It depends on the stain brand.
-Armstrong Clark Stains can be applied in direct sunlight.
2. No need to sand. Just clean and brighten for prep.
-Try Restore A Deck Prep Products
Did you mean No need to Sand? Instead of No need to Stain.
Yes.
Hi just installed a new deck with port Orford cedar. We live in the NW Oregon. We want to keep the natural color of the cedar as we can. The deck is 33’x16’ so we want to make the right stain selection the first time since it will be expensive. We are investigating SunFrog and Armstrong. We have also seen mixed articles about repeatedly wetting the deck and drying to open up the wood so it will receive the stain easier and faster. Would appreciate your advice. Thanks Kent
You cannot speed up the natural weathering process for new wood. Follow the proper directions. AC is a better stain than SunFrog.
Having a post and beam 16X32 covered patio built all with SYP. No deck, all vertical or ceiling construction. The ceiling will be exposed underside, smooth V-grooved 2X6 T&G over exposed beams and shingled on top. Not sure if the posts and beams will be rough or smooth as I’m waiting delivery from the mill, but they will be kiln dried. I have read the process for waiting, especially for the posts and beams that will be exposed to the sun and weather. However, is there any benefit to waiting to stain the ceiling since its not exposed to the elements? I would prefer to pre-stain prior to construction as this is a vaulted ceiling that would need to be stained from a ladder and much harder to do since installed over the exposed beams. However, I want what is best for the project. Thank you for maintaining this very helpful site!
Yes you should still wait and more importanly prep to remove mill glaze if smooth wood. If rough cut, you can stain prior to install.
Thank you!
We are putting up a cedar wood, 6 foot privacy fence around our yard and it should be completed by the middle of next week, around June 15. How long should we wait until we stain this fence? What type of waterproof wood stain would you recommend? We’ve been told Flood water seal or Thompson’s water seal. We plan to stain it a semi dark color. We live in the eastern part of Virginia about 30 minutes from the ocean in Virginia Beach. Thanks for your help.
Hi, your answers are in the article above. Flood and Thompson are poor-quality deck coating and you can read their reviews on this site.
Should I secure the new treated pine deck boards (I’m using screws) BEFORE the 3 month weathering process, or should I wait until it’s ready to be stained?
Thanks so much!
Does not matter. The deck does have to be installed and then weathered.
Hello! I am a first-time home buyer. Our purchased house was remodeled entirely, so the deck is brand new. I am guessing they finished it about 2 -3 months ago (we’ve owned the house for 1 month now). I would like to get suggestions on the type of stain I should use. I would like to keep the original look and use a clear stain. Is it right to assume my deck will be more protected from sun damage since it is under a roof?
Thank you for your suggestions!
You need a tint. It will gray if you use a tint: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
Try a light tint like Restore A Deck in Natural color. Clean and brighten for prep prior.
Hello! I have my deck boards purchased and will be installing them myself. I have used Thompson’s WaterSeal Waterproofing Wood Protector (Clear) for the cedar boards that frame my screen porch, and assumed that would be a good option for the deck. However, I began researching how to best apply (eg, all sides of the boards BEFORE installing?) and realized there are many other considerations and also varied approaches to this kind of project.
First: your site is the first I have read recommending weathering the wood, first. However, how does that allow application of all sides of the boards, if they have already been installed?
Second: for a clear sealant that will look the most natural, what product do you recommend? Thompson’s hasn’t been mentioned in the couple websites I’ve looked at; is it much different than the ones you recommend here?
Thank you!
You do need to weather the wood and prep. Only the exposed wood needs to be stained. No need to do all sides. You must have a tinted stain for UV protection. Clears will gray naturally. Thompsons is useless.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/will-a-clear-sealer-prevent-graying-on-deck/
Hello! we are working on staining our deck that was installed last summer. Have cleaned and rinsed, let dry. We are using restore a deck and the color goes on great however once it dries it looks very faded and splotchy. I know it is recommended only one coat; but sure does look like it needs two. The first day i did half the deck; no misting with water .. after asking a question on the forum; it was recommended to use the misting method prior to applying. It was definitely easier to apply but i am seeing no difference. Please advise .. see pics below.. the darker few boards are the ones with the stain just applied and the rest was done yesterday. Thanks much!
Did you brighten the wood after teh cleaning and if so, did you rinse it properly after? I think you are having this issue:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-rinse-a-wood-brightener-with-water/
thanks for the quick reply!
we did not use the brightener. We cleaned and rinsed twice – was hoping that was enough ?
thanks for the quick reply! we did not use the brightener. We cleaned and rinsed twice – was hoping that was enough ?
What cleaner did you use? Something is causing a reaction. Could be a missed step or a incompatible cleaner
we used Scott’s outdoor multipurpose cleaner, rinsed twice.
If it is some sort of reaction what do you recommend we do to remedy? Wait until next year to strip, clean, and restain or take some steps this year?
You definitely had a reaction. To fix you will need to remove it and start over. Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and Brightener for prep and both stripper additives. Do it now or next year but do not add more stain in the meantime.